Hells teeth, Penny!!! You haven't let 'Monkey Boy' spill a drop of oil on the new benches .… have you? 😱 (Even though he did (fair do's) wipe it up straight away! (Good boy, Del! 😜) Loving ALL your vids and the new look, 'operating theatre'-clean motor-sickle laboratory. Keep up the excellent work guys, but don't forget to schedule in some riding days out now that weather is getting much less British! Have fun guys, and appreciate all the (unseen) 'perspiration' that goes on behind the scenes. 👍👍
Thanks Mark, you're too kind.. and yeah, we get some ride time in when we can... the new cabinets are all over the place at the moment, i need to shift them about a bit to make some more room across the work end of the garage.... kind of a "Cabinet Reshuffle" lol
Hope you're doing it to music 😜 and make sure there are no cobwebs or (perish the thought) any dust behind the cabs, before they go back against the wall. Have great fun, and looking forward to the new 'new look'. You two are SUCH a great pair, and SOOO giving of your time, knowledge, experience and yes.… seriously good entertainment value, too. Don't change anything, will ya! 👍👍
I just found your channel today and hope to be able to perform some of the more simple maintenance tasks on my 2006 Heritage Softail Classic. For more complex procedures, like changing out the cam chain tensioners, I guess it means a trip to the dealership. The woman running your camera is great, she zooms in and out perfectly, this allows the novice to better understand your actions. THANKS!
Hi there, thanks for your cool feedback, it's entirely what we intended to be share some knowledge on basic housekeeping maintenance, and yes, for jobs like your cam chain tensioners, unless you're familiar with that kind of work, I would invest in the time of a professional to do that for you, the peace of mind is worth it and at the same time you're still saving time on the basic jobs! Have fun with it, ride safe!
Once again Del you show us biker on how easy it is to do simple job on any bike for a fraction of the cost from a garage.....watch and listen folks Mr Del is making sense here...
Dude! You quite possibly saved me big $$$ at the Harley dealership. Been struggling to get my bike in neutral forever. Pulled the cover off and shined my flashlight in and BINGO!! Way too much oil in there so I drained it, put the proper amount and good to go. Now I can shift into neutral at a stop light.... crazy shit man! Thanks for these videos!
haha you're most welcome brother, that is exactly what we load the videos for, so glad the information could help you and save you some bucks! Ride safe and enjoy the weekend...
Hey Byron. good to know you;re watching... hope some of this can help you maybe, i know you dont do your own servicing.. but it may give you some comfort at least to know just how much they do for the money they charge you..!!!
Well I definitely don't do MUCH, but I do the three-hole oil change, and on my Dyna I changed the brake pads, fork oil, spark plugs, air cleaner, and battery. That's about the extent of my mechanical misadventures! But, yes, absolutely! I like watching you do the more involved stuff just because it's interesting and so I have a sense of what proper mechanics actually do.
Excellent video Del, well explained. Never knew why a Derby cover was called a Derby cover either! When are you continuing with the fighter build mate?
Hi Del, hey the other day I did the primary on mine and when I went to use me Hylomar and all I squeezed out to start with was a yeloy liquid, got any thoughts mate ( it came good in the end)
How do you know the amount of oil that was in the primary was the correct amount to begin with? What if the amount that was in there was wrong to begin with?
Sir, your videos are great. I do follow the service manual, it specifies torque for the drain bold and derby cover screws. Also it specifies (my bike is a 2006 heritage) 32oz of primary fluid. I always follow the book. Thank yo uagain.
Hello from across the pond. Great videos. I was curious about you servicing the level back to what came out as opposed to what the manual calls for. Working on aircraft, I've often found a job done incorrectly by the previous mechanic. So I feel wrong doing things the way it was instead of the manual requirements. So...why do you not service to the quantity the manual calls for? The previous mechanic could have overserviced it. Thanks for the videos.
Thanks for your videos, they are very helpful. My question; you've made it clear that with regard to the gearbox oil the amount that I replace should be the amount that I have removed. But, what if the amount that was removed was the wrong amount, either too much or too little? Someone else changed the oil before I did. So if I'm replacing the oil with the same amount as was there, I am going to just perpetuate the problem. Any suggestions?
This is likely a dumb question but here goes….. where do you get those glass jugs for measuring the oil you took out and put back in? Did you just steal the wifey’s measuring cup and give it back afterwards or did you buy a pair for the garage specifically?
He talks funny but he knows his stuff...I like the info and the way he makes it idiot proof...plus I got an 06 softtail and the info is all usable to me....thanks dude. .. I'll keep watching...
Hi, i change primär oil today, and it was 1 liter in it🤔i think it is to much, and it's not easy for me to see if it is to much, is it to little with 7,6dl? Fatboy 02.
I want to thank you so much! You just literally explained an issue I'm having on a bike I just bought. No one has been able to tell me in the last 3 days what the issue is. From what you just described, I'm going to assume the guy I bought it from overfilled the primary. So hard to shift into gear and can't get it in neutral, and when I have the clutch lever pulled in, it still tries to roll far ward. I have to constantly keep my hand on the brake. Going to drain the fluid and start over! Thanks so much!!!
I love your videos man. They are so informative and so easy to follow. Good camera angles. Good clear instructions. A big thumbs up from me. Keep up the good work. 👍🤜
Original owner of a 2002 FatBoy. Been doing my own service after the initial 1000 mile by dealer. I’m not an expert, but can hold my own on maintenance and parts changing. I actually worked up the courage to do my own rotor/brake pad replacement and caliper service recently. Took some time, but I did it and glad I did it. On a side note, my primary case has the tapered drain plug that needs pipe tape. I always thought that was a weird/stupid idea on Harley’s part since the rest are NOT. Glad to see that they have corrected/updated that with the parallel plug and gasket, much better. (Good to know if I ever crack my case the new cases will be updated). Great vids. Always enjoy watching and learning things I thought I knew ;))
Sure thing buddy, I have the tapered plug on my Dyna now (99 model), but it's never given me any problems, you should never crack it unless you go swinging on it... you're more likely to mince the thread first, as only a very shallow taper... good luck with it buddy!
Hi Stephen, it's fine to fill it through the chain inspection hole, doesn't do any harm, you just can't check the oil level accurately, and it is critical, so i always just drop the cover off and make sure..
Can you tell us the range of years that this applied to - I have a 1995 and want to do some of my own service - thanks - Also maybe in advance of this video, explain the purpose and function of the overflow oil tank that feeds the primary (Just my suggestion) - thanks for doing this - this is the right level of explanation for me even though I have worked on lots of bikes in the past (non Harley)
Great video brother I have a question? Mine is a 97 road king with a 1340 Evo 5 speed do you fill up to the same spot? Do you know about these primary's? Or no, appreciate it man have a good day!
Well explained! I am very happy with your videos. Do I have one more question, namely instead of Hylomar Blue I used Loctite 5926 to seal the threads during the engine oil change. Did I use the right product? I hope you can help me with this. Thanks in advance. Best Regards, Wilfred
Hi De, I don't have a Harley but love to lern new things and this was different and easy to understand . You've been too tidy and clean with your new bench hahh. Thanks, gus
Thanks Gus, a lot of the information will translate across to other bikes, like the sump plug advice, thats the same for any engine, even a truck..! and dont worry, the benches will soon get filled up and dirty..lol
Hi mate 👍😉 What if you put a little to much oil to the tranny? I always measure the oil level on the dipstick when the bike is straight -not on the kickstand . I put like 950 ml in to the gear box.
No Sir, if you check the primary on the side stand, it will all pour out the derby cover hole, some oil checks are upright and some are on the jiffy stand, generally the only one on the jiffy stand is the engine oil, but gearbox and primary on most bikes are upright... but check your manual if you're not sure.
@@Moonfleet41 Ok, thanks for the info. Really enjoy the video's. Always learning something new. I have a 2013 Heritage Softail Classic FLSTC Love It! I want to take good care of the bike. And you help me do that.
On my 2006 Fat boy they must have changed because it's the same parallel plug as your 2005, but it takes a 3/16ths allen wrench. And my service manual has a torque setting of 30-60in/lbs (4.1-6.8 Nm).
Hey there brother Very well done videos my man self explanatory very clearly explained and shown! Did my primary oil change today on my 2000 Fatboy and sure thing it was entire 1L of dirty scum oil came out Lol Just found one piece of siver chip on plug itself do you think this may it indicate something as you mentioned in this video? Also my drain plug wasn't neither you are described here .Same size of wrench tho it was T30 however it was just a little bolt which came out with no gasket or taper kind of thread. It was just regular one you are showing here however like i said way smaller and no rubber oring! Anyway thank you so much again very pleased watching your videos RIDE SAFE &CHEERS Oliver
Nice one Del & Penny. Another real informative & well explained video. Always good to learn about different makes/models of bikes. 'See' you soon. Cheers Al.
but Sir , what exacly the right level ? two times you showd in the video with the stick touching the oil inside before and after like at 19:58 . i dont get it. please help. thx in advance
Been riding bikes for over 30years and do the oils on my harley but love the vid Dell and have pick up one or two tips from you.thanks from an old dog!
Hi Vincent, good to hear from you... thanks so much for your support, it's an honour to be able to reach out to the experienced riders out there and have their respect... ride safe, and keep yer boots in the breeze brother...
This is fantastic! THANK YOU for considering those of us who are just starting out! I appreciate the back knowledge so I can begin to see a more full picture.
@@Moonfleet41 Actually, I ride...NOT my husband! And I enjoyed your video because I want to learn to take care of my bike on my own. But many videos make the assumption the viewer is already an established mechanic. So, thank you, again, for explaining very basics as you go!
@@gardennurse1588 So sorry for the Gender assumption Gardennurse, What a clumsy chauvinist faux pas there.. Must try harder.. ! Glad you can find use in the videos, and always feel free to drop us a line if you need a tip of second opinion on something... Take care and ride safe.. Del.
@@Moonfleet41 No worries, just caused me to chuckle. I get that a lot actually. I found your help incredibly valuable, and I subscribed for sure. Thank you for taking the time to teach! 😉
If only mate,my better half worried too much when I was out and about and to be honest it was becoming an obsession!,but I get my fix watching videos like yours.Hope you are both well and as always look forward to your next instalment.
Hi, as an expat Harley owner living in the US many people I know change the engine oil more frequently than the primary and transmission. Oil changed at 2500 miles and primary and trans at 5000. What are your thoughts on this? Thx
My thoughts would be that 2,500 for engine is a little over zealous, but only in terms of it being unnecessary, not wrong... it's never wrong to change oil too early! As for the others, that sounds about bang on... Primary oil gets contaminated with clutch dust and the Gear oil gets mushed, you'll always detect an improvement when you change it, so it must be relevant.
Interesting the mythology that surrounds the name of things like the Fat boy name. I had always understood that the Derby cover was so named because back in 1957, there was a prominent motorcycle club that had begun a ritual if riding to the Kentucky Derby annually and selling custom motorcycle parts. During this particular derby, for some reason, they sold mor of the season covers than anything else. The name stuck. 🤷♂️ who knows. 🤔 perhaps we should come up with our own anecdotes and see if they become popularised 🤣. Here’s the first one then - it’s called a derby cover because back in the day when you entered a race derby you would get a special decorated winners derby cover to put on your bike. 🤣 Cheers Del. Keep up the awesome videos you and the essential camera expert 😊 Ride safe. 🤜👍
Hi John..The way i heard it..Derby covers are apparently so called because they resemble the shape of the 'Derby" hat..later called the Bowler hat ! at least the Derby covers used to resemble Derby hats back in 1957 !! google an image, you'll see the resemblance ! Thanks for your support mate, good to hear from you.
Just found this video today, I know it’s old! I’m no Harley mechanic but I found it useful to watch. Question? Are all Harleys fill the primary to the bottom of the clutch spring typically the correct level? Working on my dads 86 FLST Heritage Softail that I inherited. RIP Dad! The manual says to fill the level to the bottom opening of the Derby cover. It’s about 1.5 quarts and visually a lot higher then the bottom of the spring clutch. Any thoughts? Thank you kindly……..
Hi Jesse, firstly, the actual quantity of oil you put in in ounces is less relevant than the level itself... the quantity is a guide that more than anything else helps you to know how much oil to buy before you start the job but you always fill to the correct level... the bike in this video is an 88 twin cam and your EVO has a different shaped primary set up (very slightly), the clutch itself sits a little higher in relation to the hole, but most importantly of all, you fill to the bottom of the clutch plates on all Harleys... if you fill less than that, then the clutch can overheat as it needs oil to cool it, and if you fill higher than that, then the clutch can drag and be very difficult to get in to gear, so ' bottom of the clutch plates always'... in your EVO that is almost at the lip edge of the hole, but in a twin cam it's lower down due to where the clutch pack sits.
I recently bought a 07 FLSTC and am changing the fluids for the first time. My question to you is about the amount of primary case oil you are recommending. You and others on RUclips are saying 26 oz. but the official (and expensive) HD book on my model definitely says that 36 oz. is required. The factory trained mechanics agree emphatically. Very nice job with your video though. I look forward to learning from you about other maintenance related goodies for my new baby.
Hi there, what is far more critical with any Harley Davidson primary, any model from Sportster to Tourer, rather than the quantity is the actual oil level, it is absolutely imperative that the oil level must be no higher than the bottom of the clutch plates, this will be advised and diagrammed in your manual so set the level to this regardless of how much it takes.
Random observations: I don't know why it's called a derby cover. But I DO know it looks NOTHING like a derby hat worn in the Old Days (the late Victorian and Edwardian eras). Also, we "palm" a ratchet if it's easier to fit in a confined space, not to get a different result (i.e., tighter, more/less torque, etc)...whether palmed or held as designed, the result is the same: stop turning whenever your hand tells your brain "OK, that about right."
They may not look like a Derby Bowler hat now... but they certainly used to... www.billscustomcycles.com/sc_images/products/DSCN6067%20(Copy)-sca1-1000.jpg
Del - First of all, thanks for the videos. Great information. In this one, you talk about how critical having the correct level on the primary oil is, and how to match what you took out, but the missing part is if the current amount is too low or high, how would I know? I'll come right out and admit I did the last change myself, and doing it on the side stand (jiffy stand), I had heard it should be filled to just having the clutch plates barely sitting in the fluid. Is this true when it's on the jiffy stand and not standing straight up? This is the only fluid I know of that doesn't have some sort of line inscribed that tells you when the fluid is at the correct level. --- If it matters, my bike is a 2013 switchback. TIA for any advice.
Hi Matt, firstly primary oil is always measured with the bike UPRIGHT, this is essential because in order for the clutch plates to give the correct level by just touching the surface of the oil, those cluth plates must be upright... otherwise you'll just be dipping the outer corner in the oil... and when you stand it up, the level will be too low... Also, you won't really be able to fill it, cos it will pour out of the derby cover hole, so it's always upright mate, and the correct level, as I said, is to the bottom of the clutch plates viewed by looking down from the derby cover hole... it's not clinical critical, maybe +/-1mm in level, but make sure you get it as close as you can!
Hi Dell n Pen Thank you for your easy to follow instruction. I have serviced my Softail and purged the old oil as you demonstrated, wow fancy leaving all that crap in their. I also have a 2002 Road King, how do I purge the oil from that please
If you put in the amount taken out, is wrong! You need to review repair Manuel because the person who originally put oil in my have made mistake. You would be compounding the mistake!
The problem with you replacing the same amount of oil that was removed completely ignores the important fact of whether the wrong amount was in the bike to begin with. There are several reasons why the amounts may be wrong which are different topics altogether and those require additional discussion beyond this video. It's better to begin at the recommended minimum amounts and then top off as needed.
Perhaps you missed it, but I made it quite clear that you check the existing oil level first to make sure it is CORRECT, then once you are sure it is, you can drain it out and replace the same amount and it will return to correct, never failed me.
Ur videos helped me tremendously and saved me thousands I really appreciate all ur help 🙏u are amazing at explaining and made me understand very easy god bless u
Dear friend, I´m working in a Sportster XL1200 here. Do you believe that I took out almost 2,00 liters from the primary? Unbelievable whats those stupid "mechanicals are doing around here!
Good comment on draining cold oil. I have noticed the same outcome as well on both of my Triumphs. I also think that it is possible when you drain cold oil, you are giving the contaminants time to collect undisturbed which you get on then drain out. On another note, I am not sure if you have heard H-Ds new motto..."Hardley-Dangerous - The thunderous noise without dealing with the nuisance of horsepower!!" HA!!!!
Take a Dyna Lowrider S out for a test ride... you laugh at that old worn out mantra then buddy.. !!! and yeah, i always get more oil out when drained cold..!
I have heard of it, I believe that's the gizmo for the Dyna models last time I looked, but this method is free for Softail models and actually relevant as so much oil remains in the tubes and engine, but with Dyna's it all drains out the bottom of the engine... clever idea though as every little helps!
I have to ask you, because I think you'll have the best answer. What is the best oil for a 01 Sportster XL(H) 1200? Is Redline Lightweight good? Would an Amsoil product be better? If so, which one? Thank you!
Hi Luke, presume you are talking about the Primary, as in this video? I've never used a Redline product myself, so can't comment on it, but have used Amsoil in my Dyna and it was a definite improvement over the HD alternative, so Amsoil is a good bet and they simply market it as Amsoil Primary Fluid, check out their website and source it from your local supplier!
Perfectly fine buddy, it was a recommendation, back in the days of the old Evo motors, and also, believe it or not, you can use it as fork oil as well, because forks are hydraulic and automatic transmissions use hydarulic oil, so it's all the same, but in a primary, the technology inside there is no different to a Shovelhead from the '70's, they might have automatic adjustors now, but they don't present any different lubrication requirements... in the primary it's just a chain oil to lube the cogs and the chain and keep the clutch from overheating... so ATF is fine if you have nothing else.
My CVO Road King manual calls for 32 ounces in the primary. The manual for my non CVO Road King calls for 38 to 44 ounces in the primary. Visually, it takes 44 ounces for the oil to touch the clutch plate in the CVO Road King and it operates fine. I'm confused about the CVO manual specs. I'd appreciate your take on this matter. Thank you again Del.
Welcome to the wonderful, crazy screwed up world or Harley Davidson..lol ! as long as you go with the level correct and the bottom of the clutch pack.. then you're good to go Tim..make that your constant... It could be any number of causes for that anomaly in the manual, CVO bikes may run more oil, a slightly different internal design, who knows...just don't over think things with Harleys, you can leave that to the factory..lol!
Great video but looking at my 2015 Heritage Softail, manual states 1 quart = 32FLOZ and as 1 US quart = 950ml, just a little confused in case you put less oil in the Primary than you should have? I noted over 900ml was drained form the primary so possibly, was it a quart that should have gone back in with a US quart = 950ml? Here is the simple rule by Harley 3 qts engine oil. 1 qt. trans oil and 1 qt. Primary oil.
With your primary case, it's more important to make sure to fill to the correct level then any specific quantity... when draining, you'll get varied amounts out depending on a few factors, how thick or thin the old oil is, whether it was under filled or over filled before, even the temperature can play a part.... but it's critical that you fill to the bottom of the clutch plates..pay more attention to that Robert than the measured amount..
I changed the primary oil on my dyna 2005 wich in manual says 26 oz (768ml) and i saw you in other of your videos explaining that the oil level must be touching the exterior silver metal ring of the clutch. if i put 26 oz as I did (only rode 100kilometers yet) it gets like you said in your other video and like the manual, but in other videos from you and also other people i've seen the oil level upper in the clutch so now i'm confused and thinking i'm riding at minimum
Hi Jose, it's important not to 'overthink' it, it's not absolutely critical, the oil should be touching the bottom of the clutch spring disc, which is the edge of the clutch plates, as long as it's there, or thereabouts, it's fine. You'll know if it's drastically wrong because it will 'slam' into gear heavy and be difficult to change, so as it rides ok, it's fine. Just enjoy your bike mate.
@@Moonfleet41 ok then, right now it's like you describe and the bike runs fantastic but I don't wanna mess with the oils because here in Seville we will be at 45 celcius very soon, 4 months woth these temperatures from 10 am to 20 pm non stop ajajaja
Always a pleasure to not only watch your videos but have one (or a series like this) that I can follow along with as well. So thanks! But I have a question. I'm changing the primary oil on a 2011 Road King. I removed the darby cover and checked the oil level - it appeared to be the same as your Softtail. And I measured the drained oil into a clean, accurate container. Here's the problem; I recovered 32 ounces of old fluid but my Harley manual specifies 38 ounces wet. What would you do?
Hi there, one of the reasons I check the level first, then drain out, then put that amount back in fresh, is you're bound to return to the correct oil level... perhaps you haven't got all the oil out, but whatever happens, you can't run it with the oil level too high, so you'll just have to fill it to the correct oil level, unless you're prepared to remove the primary cover and investigate further.
question : All 3 oil levels are with the bike on a lift....So if that's accurate, measuring oil levels on a jiffy stand is an inaccurate reading then , correct?? I have a 2012 dyna switchback.
Different models vary the oil level check between upright and side stand... so check the exact specification for YOUR exact bike in your service manual mate.. it will lay it out clear and concise.
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks for the reply, My service book shows engine oil on jiffy stand; tranny and primary both upright.I said it before, your videos are getting me thru the winter much appreciated
Great tutorial as always! At 10k miles service, is there a point in removing the entire primary cover to see what's there? Or do you recommend just using the 2 covers like in this video? It's a 2003 Fatboy
I would only bother if there was tell tail swarf in the oil when i drained it, or the oil was very dark grey indicating possible clutch plates wear... but if it's just to "see what's there"...Remember it's over £35 for a primary gasket..! Your choice thought.!
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks a lot mate. I already have one in silicone I think. They are expensive, I am just scared to not make it sealed tight. I know you love Hylomar , so I was thinking if I did it, I would put that on the gasket so it would stick to the primary when putting it back on :)
Hello all, wanna ask about oil. I ride occasionaly on weekends and live in warm humid area. Is it safe for the engine to use oils that are not specifically made for v twins or air cooled engines but have the same weight and api rating? Like These oils like total 3000, motul which are 20w50 sj/cf, theyre the same as mobil one vt and much cheaper. Because these other oils are easier to get in place where i live.
Yes, absolutely. If you check out the advice in the HD service manuals, it is always stated (word for word).."In the absence of a dedicated Harley Davidson oil, use oil rated for Diesel Engines" ... so as that advice comes from Harley Davidson themselves.. you can trust it.. Hope that helps you.. Good luck.. Del.
@@Moonfleet41 yep i read that somewhere in the manuals..however i recently found an article explaining that sj oils are not suitable for 00-up harley or do not use oil with less zync (somethingnlike that) and so on. That got me a little confused. Should the engine be okay with sl/sm/sn cf rated oils? Should i even be concerned about the s* rating?
Concerning the primary drain plug you will find the torque specification in Softail Model service manual 99482-09 chapter 1 page 24 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm). Thank you for all your great videos. I have a 2008 Fat Boy and watch your individual videos before starting each maintenance chore. John from Lake Tishomingo, Hillsboro Missouri USA
Thank you for explaining everything!!! :). I have an 02 Harley Heritage - just about to roll over 169,000 miles on her!! :). do you recommend changing the primary & transmission fluids every 10,000 or 12,000? I’m using synthetic
Old video, we're in a different place now.. but year, probably, sent over as a gift by viewers.. we have a lot of kind and loyal support from The South..!
Really good videos man. I'm going to change my fluids on my 88' Softail tomorrow. I think mine is pretty much the same? I just got this bike a few weeks ago and I cant wait to get the trans and primary oil changed so I know its all fresh fluids! Great job... "happy riding from Michigan!" 👍
Great video Del. Wish I would have watched prior to filling my primary up to the top and then starting the engine. Now I’m thinking I should drain it and put the correct amount in. I’m thinking my clutch plates will be soaked. Arrrgh !! Any tips on how to correct my screw up ?
Here is an unexpected insight. Watching you teach us how to service a Harley, a bike I do not own and will likely never own, is a bit like watching Bill 'Bojangles' Robinson teaching Shirley Temple a new way to go up stairs. I wind up learning more than I expected and I also find myself smiling and entertained at the end. See if you can see what I mean: ruclips.net/video/LrBjFokI4jM/видео.html
Hells teeth, Penny!!! You haven't let 'Monkey Boy' spill a drop of oil on the new benches .… have you? 😱 (Even though he did (fair do's) wipe it up straight away! (Good boy, Del! 😜) Loving ALL your vids and the new look, 'operating theatre'-clean motor-sickle laboratory. Keep up the excellent work guys, but don't forget to schedule in some riding days out now that weather is getting much less British! Have fun guys, and appreciate all the (unseen) 'perspiration' that goes on behind the scenes. 👍👍
Thanks Mark, you're too kind.. and yeah, we get some ride time in when we can... the new cabinets are all over the place at the moment, i need to shift them about a bit to make some more room across the work end of the garage.... kind of a "Cabinet Reshuffle" lol
Hope you're doing it to music 😜 and make sure there are no cobwebs or (perish the thought) any dust behind the cabs, before they go back against the wall. Have great fun, and looking forward to the new 'new look'. You two are SUCH a great pair, and SOOO giving of your time, knowledge, experience and yes.… seriously good entertainment value, too. Don't change anything, will ya! 👍👍
I just found your channel today and hope to be able to perform some of the more simple maintenance tasks on my 2006 Heritage Softail Classic. For more complex procedures, like changing out the cam chain tensioners, I guess it means a trip to the dealership. The woman running your camera is great, she zooms in and out perfectly, this allows the novice to better understand your actions. THANKS!
Hi there, thanks for your cool feedback, it's entirely what we intended to be share some knowledge on basic housekeeping maintenance, and yes, for jobs like your cam chain tensioners, unless you're familiar with that kind of work, I would invest in the time of a professional to do that for you, the peace of mind is worth it and at the same time you're still saving time on the basic jobs! Have fun with it, ride safe!
Once again Del you show us biker on how easy it is to do simple job on any bike for a fraction of the cost from a garage.....watch and listen folks Mr Del is making sense here...
Ha ha, thanks Dean.. its just house keeping aye..!
Dude! You quite possibly saved me big $$$ at the Harley dealership. Been struggling to get my bike in neutral forever. Pulled the cover off and shined my flashlight in and BINGO!! Way too much oil in there so I drained it, put the proper amount and good to go. Now I can shift into neutral at a stop light.... crazy shit man! Thanks for these videos!
haha you're most welcome brother, that is exactly what we load the videos for, so glad the information could help you and save you some bucks! Ride safe and enjoy the weekend...
fk....i'm gonna need to do this also....pain in the ass to find neutral
Very interesting as usual, and the garage looks awesome! Cool to have you working on HD Softail like mine :) Hi to Penny!
Hey Byron. good to know you;re watching... hope some of this can help you maybe, i know you dont do your own servicing.. but it may give you some comfort at least to know just how much they do for the money they charge you..!!!
Well I definitely don't do MUCH, but I do the three-hole oil change, and on my Dyna I changed the brake pads, fork oil, spark plugs, air cleaner, and battery. That's about the extent of my mechanical misadventures! But, yes, absolutely! I like watching you do the more involved stuff just because it's interesting and so I have a sense of what proper mechanics actually do.
what is the milage for oil change for all 3 holes on a 2015 heritage softail classic? thanks. love the videos
Check the service schedule in your bike's handbook, it's all laid out in there clearly for you mate !
been away for a while garage looks good mate .... great vid as always
I have a 1988 fxrs it says in the shop manual for primary fluid to the bottom of the case is that correct?
Excellent video Del, well explained. Never knew why a Derby cover was called a Derby cover either! When are you continuing with the fighter build mate?
Hi Del, hey the other day I did the primary on mine and when I went to use me Hylomar and all I squeezed out to start with was a yeloy liquid, got any thoughts mate ( it came good in the end)
Sounds like a question to ask Hylomar mate
How do you know the amount of oil that was in the primary was the correct amount to begin with? What if the amount that was in there was wrong to begin with?
Sir, your videos are great. I do follow the service manual, it specifies torque for the drain bold and derby cover screws. Also it specifies (my bike is a 2006 heritage) 32oz of primary fluid. I always follow the book. Thank yo uagain.
Hello from across the pond. Great videos. I was curious about you servicing the level back to what came out as opposed to what the manual calls for. Working on aircraft, I've often found a job done incorrectly by the previous mechanic. So I feel wrong doing things the way it was instead of the manual requirements. So...why do you not service to the quantity the manual calls for? The previous mechanic could have overserviced it. Thanks for the videos.
Thanks for your videos, they are very helpful. My question; you've made it clear that with regard to the gearbox oil the amount that I replace should be the amount that I have removed. But, what if the amount that was removed was the wrong amount, either too much or too little? Someone else changed the oil before I did. So if I'm replacing the oil with the same amount as was there, I am going to just perpetuate the problem. Any suggestions?
Yes mate.. check the level is correct first.... then, if you replace what you drain out.. it will return to the correct level when you refill it.!
What is correct level and thanks great video
This is likely a dumb question but here goes….. where do you get those glass jugs for measuring the oil you took out and put back in? Did you just steal the wifey’s measuring cup and give it back afterwards or did you buy a pair for the garage specifically?
Got those specifically for the garage, and they're from IKEA of all places.. spotted them when i was in there and throught.."ooh, handy" !
@@Moonfleet41 ahhh…. excellent idea! Got an Ikea 15 minutes away from my place!
He talks funny but he knows his stuff...I like the info and the way he makes it idiot proof...plus I got an 06 softtail and the info is all usable to me....thanks dude. .. I'll keep watching...
Hi, i change primär oil today, and it was 1 liter in it🤔i think it is to much, and it's not easy for me to see if it is to much, is it to little with 7,6dl?
Fatboy 02.
Fill to the bottom of the clutch outer plate, regardless of the amount.
Ok, thank's🙏🙏🙏
I want to thank you so much! You just literally explained an issue I'm having on a bike I just bought. No one has been able to tell me in the last 3 days what the issue is. From what you just described, I'm going to assume the guy I bought it from overfilled the primary. So hard to shift into gear and can't get it in neutral, and when I have the clutch lever pulled in, it still tries to roll far ward. I have to constantly keep my hand on the brake. Going to drain the fluid and start over! Thanks so much!!!
Hi Mike.. those symptoms sound very much like an overfilled primary case... good luck wit it, let us know how you get on mate.. !
I love your videos man. They are so informative and so easy to follow. Good camera angles. Good clear instructions. A big thumbs up from me. Keep up the good work. 👍🤜
Thank you for your kind feedback John, that's very kind, we're glad the videos can help!
Original owner of a 2002 FatBoy. Been doing my own service after the initial 1000 mile by dealer. I’m not an expert, but can hold my own on maintenance and parts changing. I actually worked up the courage to do my own rotor/brake pad replacement and caliper service recently. Took some time, but I did it and glad I did it.
On a side note, my primary case has the tapered drain plug that needs pipe tape. I always thought that was a weird/stupid idea on Harley’s part since the rest are NOT. Glad to see that they have corrected/updated that with the parallel plug and gasket, much better. (Good to know if I ever crack my case the new cases will be updated).
Great vids. Always enjoy watching and learning things I thought I knew ;))
Sure thing buddy, I have the tapered plug on my Dyna now (99 model), but it's never given me any problems, you should never crack it unless you go swinging on it... you're more likely to mince the thread first, as only a very shallow taper... good luck with it buddy!
Excellent information on oil level
Thanks for sharing
Been arguing with my son he refills his primary oil by filling it up through the ptimary chain inspection cover go figure no one can change his mind.
Hi Stephen, it's fine to fill it through the chain inspection hole, doesn't do any harm, you just can't check the oil level accurately, and it is critical, so i always just drop the cover off and make sure..
Can you tell us the range of years that this applied to - I have a 1995 and want to do some of my own service - thanks - Also maybe in advance of this video, explain the purpose and function of the overflow oil tank that feeds the primary (Just my suggestion) - thanks for doing this - this is the right level of explanation for me even though I have worked on lots of bikes in the past (non Harley)
Great video brother I have a question? Mine is a 97 road king with a 1340 Evo 5 speed do you fill up to the same spot? Do you know about these primary's? Or no, appreciate it man have a good day!
Well explained! I am very happy with your videos. Do I have one more question, namely instead of Hylomar Blue I used Loctite 5926 to seal the threads during the engine oil change. Did I use the right product?
I hope you can help me with this. Thanks in advance.
Best Regards, Wilfred
Hi De, I don't have a Harley but love to lern new things and this was different and easy to understand . You've been too tidy and clean with your new bench hahh. Thanks, gus
Thanks Gus, a lot of the information will translate across to other bikes, like the sump plug advice, thats the same for any engine, even a truck..! and dont worry, the benches will soon get filled up and dirty..lol
Hi mate 👍😉
What if you put a little to much oil to the tranny?
I always measure the oil level on the dipstick when the bike is straight -not on the kickstand . I put like 950 ml in to the gear box.
Aren't you suppose to check fluids on side stand, not upright on lift table.
No Sir, if you check the primary on the side stand, it will all pour out the derby cover hole, some oil checks are upright and some are on the jiffy stand, generally the only one on the jiffy stand is the engine oil, but gearbox and primary on most bikes are upright... but check your manual if you're not sure.
@@Moonfleet41 Ok, thanks for the info. Really enjoy the video's. Always learning something new. I have a 2013 Heritage Softail Classic FLSTC Love It! I want to take good care of the bike. And you help me do that.
2005 Softail
👍
On my 2006 Fat boy they must have changed because it's the same parallel plug as your 2005, but it takes a 3/16ths allen wrench. And my service manual has a torque setting of 30-60in/lbs (4.1-6.8 Nm).
Hey there brother
Very well done videos my man self explanatory very clearly explained and shown!
Did my primary oil change today on my 2000 Fatboy and sure thing it was entire 1L of dirty scum oil came out Lol
Just found one piece of siver chip on plug itself do you think this may it indicate something as you mentioned in this video?
Also my drain plug wasn't neither you are described here .Same size of wrench tho it was T30 however it was just a little bolt which came out with no gasket or taper kind of thread. It was just regular one you are showing here however like i said way smaller and no rubber oring!
Anyway thank you so much again very pleased watching your videos
RIDE SAFE &CHEERS
Oliver
My 2007 Softail manual says that the tighten the drain plug to 14-21 ft-lb (19.0-28.5 Nm)
Nice one Del & Penny. Another real informative & well explained video. Always good to learn about different makes/models of bikes. 'See' you soon. Cheers Al.
Good video. I just replaced my derby cover and the conversion from In/lb to Ft /lb was about 8.3. 12 seem a little high
This channel is highly recommended for subscribed, share and hit like button❤
but Sir , what exacly the right level ? two times you showd in the video with the stick touching the oil inside before and after like at 19:58 . i dont get it. please help. thx in advance
what do i do if its a secondhand bike ,?how can i trust the oil level as you suggest when replaicing it with fresh oil??
Been riding bikes for over 30years and do the oils on my harley but love the vid Dell and have pick up one or two tips from you.thanks from an old dog!
Hi Vincent, good to hear from you... thanks so much for your support, it's an honour to be able to reach out to the experienced riders out there and have their respect... ride safe, and keep yer boots in the breeze brother...
Liking your maintenance videos, I find them interesting. Thank you very much for sharing
This is fantastic! THANK YOU for considering those of us who are just starting out! I appreciate the back knowledge so I can begin to see a more full picture.
Most welcome Sir, am glad it could be of help!
@@Moonfleet41 Actually, I ride...NOT my husband! And I enjoyed your video because I want to learn to take care of my bike on my own. But many videos make the assumption the viewer is already an established mechanic. So, thank you, again, for explaining very basics as you go!
@@gardennurse1588 So sorry for the Gender assumption Gardennurse, What a clumsy chauvinist faux pas there.. Must try harder.. ! Glad you can find use in the videos, and always feel free to drop us a line if you need a tip of second opinion on something... Take care and ride safe.. Del.
@@Moonfleet41 No worries, just caused me to chuckle. I get that a lot actually. I found your help incredibly valuable, and I subscribed for sure. Thank you for taking the time to teach! 😉
Thank you for what you do!!....your detailed explanation is excellent..
Your tutorial help me answer some questions I had...
Can I put gear oil in my primary and 20w 50 in my Tran? New to Harley leaning as i go
how do i check Diaphragm Clutch Spring to make sure i dont need to replace it
Your method of measuring process is no good to a guy who bought a bike that was overfilled to begin with
Del & Penny you are knocking it out of the park! With this instructional videos,dam I miss my 48!😩.
Great viewing,as always.
Respect to you both.
Thanks buddy... sounds like you need another Harley in your life..??!!!
If only mate,my better half worried too much when I was out and about and to be honest it was becoming an obsession!,but I get my fix watching videos like yours.Hope you are both well and as always look forward to your next instalment.
What are you using for fluid measurement glass container
With a pour spout?
Great videos, but please by a mic. It will make the sound much better
Does it really matter if your bike is on the side stand if you are measuring the fluid?
Awesome job, not a bunch of rambling talk, educational, held my attention and made me eager to learn more. Thanks, well done.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hello.
How many times can I use clutch protection towards?
Hi, as an expat Harley owner living in the US many people I know change the engine oil more frequently than the primary and transmission.
Oil changed at 2500 miles and primary and trans at 5000.
What are your thoughts on this?
Thx
My thoughts would be that 2,500 for engine is a little over zealous, but only in terms of it being unnecessary, not wrong... it's never wrong to change oil too early! As for the others, that sounds about bang on... Primary oil gets contaminated with clutch dust and the Gear oil gets mushed, you'll always detect an improvement when you change it, so it must be relevant.
Interesting the mythology that surrounds the name of things like the Fat boy name.
I had always understood that the Derby cover was so named because back in 1957, there was a prominent motorcycle club that had begun a ritual if riding to the Kentucky Derby annually and selling custom motorcycle parts. During this particular derby, for some reason, they sold mor of the season covers than anything else.
The name stuck. 🤷♂️ who knows.
🤔 perhaps we should come up with our own anecdotes and see if they become popularised 🤣. Here’s the first one then - it’s called a derby cover because back in the day when you entered a race derby you would get a special decorated winners derby cover to put on your bike. 🤣
Cheers Del.
Keep up the awesome videos you and the essential camera expert 😊
Ride safe. 🤜👍
Hi John..The way i heard it..Derby covers are apparently so called because they resemble the shape of the 'Derby" hat..later called the Bowler hat ! at least the Derby covers used to resemble Derby hats back in 1957 !! google an image, you'll see the resemblance ! Thanks for your support mate, good to hear from you.
Just found this video today, I know it’s old! I’m no Harley mechanic but I found it useful to watch.
Question? Are all Harleys fill the primary to the bottom of the clutch spring typically the correct level? Working on my dads 86 FLST Heritage Softail that I inherited. RIP Dad! The manual says to fill the level to the bottom opening of the Derby cover. It’s about 1.5 quarts and visually a lot higher then the bottom of the spring clutch. Any thoughts? Thank you kindly……..
Hi Jesse, firstly, the actual quantity of oil you put in in ounces is less relevant than the level itself... the quantity is a guide that more than anything else helps you to know how much oil to buy before you start the job but you always fill to the correct level... the bike in this video is an 88 twin cam and your EVO has a different shaped primary set up (very slightly), the clutch itself sits a little higher in relation to the hole, but most importantly of all, you fill to the bottom of the clutch plates on all Harleys... if you fill less than that, then the clutch can overheat as it needs oil to cool it, and if you fill higher than that, then the clutch can drag and be very difficult to get in to gear, so ' bottom of the clutch plates always'... in your EVO that is almost at the lip edge of the hole, but in a twin cam it's lower down due to where the clutch pack sits.
I have the straight thread drain plug (T30). What size is the o-ring ?? Can’t find it. Harley says it’s tapered but that’s not what i have !
I don't know the size off hand, measure the width of the plug at the recess the o-ring sits in with a caliper.
I recently bought a 07 FLSTC and am changing the fluids for the first time. My question to you is about the amount of primary case oil you are recommending. You and others on RUclips are saying 26 oz. but the official (and expensive) HD book on my model definitely says that 36 oz. is required. The factory trained mechanics agree emphatically. Very nice job with your video though. I look forward to learning from you about other maintenance related goodies for my new baby.
Hi there, what is far more critical with any Harley Davidson primary, any model from Sportster to Tourer, rather than the quantity is the actual oil level, it is absolutely imperative that the oil level must be no higher than the bottom of the clutch plates, this will be advised and diagrammed in your manual so set the level to this regardless of how much it takes.
Random observations: I don't know why it's called a derby cover. But I DO know it looks NOTHING like a derby hat worn in the Old Days (the late Victorian and Edwardian eras). Also, we "palm" a ratchet if it's easier to fit in a confined space, not to get a different result (i.e., tighter, more/less torque, etc)...whether palmed or held as designed, the result is the same: stop turning whenever your hand tells your brain "OK, that about right."
They may not look like a Derby Bowler hat now... but they certainly used to... www.billscustomcycles.com/sc_images/products/DSCN6067%20(Copy)-sca1-1000.jpg
so how do I drain my primary oil then? cos mine is always red hot baby yea....
Ride hard roll free..
How do you get the drain plug out it it strips buy new cover??
Del - First of all, thanks for the videos. Great information. In this one, you talk about how critical having the correct level on the primary oil is, and how to match what you took out, but the missing part is if the current amount is too low or high, how would I know? I'll come right out and admit I did the last change myself, and doing it on the side stand (jiffy stand), I had heard it should be filled to just having the clutch plates barely sitting in the fluid. Is this true when it's on the jiffy stand and not standing straight up? This is the only fluid I know of that doesn't have some sort of line inscribed that tells you when the fluid is at the correct level. --- If it matters, my bike is a 2013 switchback. TIA for any advice.
Hi Matt, firstly primary oil is always measured with the bike UPRIGHT, this is essential because in order for the clutch plates to give the correct level by just touching the surface of the oil, those cluth plates must be upright... otherwise you'll just be dipping the outer corner in the oil... and when you stand it up, the level will be too low... Also, you won't really be able to fill it, cos it will pour out of the derby cover hole, so it's always upright mate, and the correct level, as I said, is to the bottom of the clutch plates viewed by looking down from the derby cover hole... it's not clinical critical, maybe +/-1mm in level, but make sure you get it as close as you can!
Great video thanks for taking the time!
Hi Dell n Pen
Thank you for your easy to follow instruction. I have serviced my Softail and purged the old oil as you demonstrated, wow fancy leaving all that crap in their. I also have a 2002 Road King, how do I purge the oil from that please
Only necessary on Softails David. No oil tank on your RK, just drain from the sump and you'll get it all.
"Stale pastry" Ha Ha Ha!
Word of warning about stainless screws, DO NOT CROSS THREAD!, they can be a bitch to get out afterwards.
Yeah, wide words well said Paul.. they're so hard they'll take out the casing thread like a thread cutting tap if you're ham fisted..
How is the recommended amount low. Is 900 not too much?
Wow this is amazing your awesome Brother very thorough and leave nothing to question Thank You for taking the time to share your expertise ❤👍👍👍👍
Glad it was helpful buddy, thank you for your kind feedback.
cool stuff every biker should know...ty for sharing my friend. ride safe : )
Perfect, just the level I needed, thank you.
If you put in the amount taken out, is wrong! You need to review repair Manuel because the person who originally put oil in my have made mistake. You would be compounding the mistake!
Check the level first then replace what came out!
The problem with you replacing the same amount of oil that was removed completely ignores the important fact of whether the wrong amount was in the bike to begin with. There are several reasons why the amounts may be wrong which are different topics altogether and those require additional discussion beyond this video. It's better to begin at the recommended minimum amounts and then top off as needed.
Perhaps you missed it, but I made it quite clear that you check the existing oil level first to make sure it is CORRECT, then once you are sure it is, you can drain it out and replace the same amount and it will return to correct, never failed me.
Ur videos helped me tremendously and saved me thousands I really appreciate all ur help 🙏u are amazing at explaining and made me understand very easy god bless u
Happy to hear that, im glad the videos can help you out..
Dear friend, I´m working in a Sportster XL1200 here. Do you believe that I took out almost 2,00 liters from the primary? Unbelievable whats those stupid "mechanicals are doing around here!
Damn really? That's a bit overfilled! Good job you found it, and can set the level correct...!
Good comment on draining cold oil. I have noticed the same outcome as well on both of my Triumphs. I also think that it is possible when you drain cold oil, you are giving the contaminants time to collect undisturbed which you get on then drain out. On another note, I am not sure if you have heard H-Ds new motto..."Hardley-Dangerous - The thunderous noise without dealing with the nuisance of horsepower!!" HA!!!!
Take a Dyna Lowrider S out for a test ride... you laugh at that old worn out mantra then buddy.. !!!
and yeah, i always get more oil out when drained cold..!
Most informative. Many thanks. Keep up the great work. Your efforts are appreciated.
Thanks mate. So nice of you to say.
Great video.
Was just wondering if you ever heard of the scavenger. If do what do you think of it.
I have heard of it, I believe that's the gizmo for the Dyna models last time I looked, but this method is free for Softail models and actually relevant as so much oil remains in the tubes and engine, but with Dyna's it all drains out the bottom of the engine... clever idea though as every little helps!
exactly what i needed thanks!!
I have to ask you, because I think you'll have the best answer.
What is the best oil for a 01 Sportster XL(H) 1200?
Is Redline Lightweight good?
Would an Amsoil product be better?
If so, which one?
Thank you!
Hi Luke, presume you are talking about the Primary, as in this video? I've never used a Redline product myself, so can't comment on it, but have used Amsoil in my Dyna and it was a definite improvement over the HD alternative, so Amsoil is a good bet and they simply market it as Amsoil Primary Fluid, check out their website and source it from your local supplier!
@@Moonfleet41 Thank you very much!
cracking video mate..never serviced a Hog ..but you never which bike may cross your path in the Future..cracking work guys
Cheers Dave, its all free knowledge aye.
Hi the primary and engine use same oil?
What are your thoughts on people using Automatic Transmission Oil in their primary case?
Perfectly fine buddy, it was a recommendation, back in the days of the old Evo motors, and also, believe it or not, you can use it as fork oil as well, because forks are hydraulic and automatic transmissions use hydarulic oil, so it's all the same, but in a primary, the technology inside there is no different to a Shovelhead from the '70's, they might have automatic adjustors now, but they don't present any different lubrication requirements... in the primary it's just a chain oil to lube the cogs and the chain and keep the clutch from overheating... so ATF is fine if you have nothing else.
My CVO Road King manual calls for 32 ounces in the primary. The manual for my non CVO Road King calls for 38 to 44 ounces in the primary. Visually, it takes 44 ounces for the oil to touch the clutch plate in the CVO Road King and it operates fine. I'm confused about the CVO manual specs. I'd appreciate your take on this matter. Thank you again Del.
Welcome to the wonderful, crazy screwed up world or Harley Davidson..lol ! as long as you go with the level correct and the bottom of the clutch pack.. then you're good to go Tim..make that your constant... It could be any number of causes for that anomaly in the manual, CVO bikes may run more oil, a slightly different internal design, who knows...just don't over think things with Harleys, you can leave that to the factory..lol!
@@Moonfleet41 Your sooo cool. Your answer gives me confidence that my DIY is OK. Thank you Del.🤟
That doesn't seem right to put in what came out? What if it didn't have the correct amount in to begin with lol?
You simply check the level is correct before you drain it..!
Thank you for your time, knowledge and extreme diligence. These videos are invaluable.
You are very welcome Jay, im glad the videos can help you sir..
Great video but looking at my 2015 Heritage Softail, manual states 1 quart = 32FLOZ and as 1 US quart = 950ml, just a little confused in case you put less oil in the Primary than you should have? I noted over 900ml was drained form the primary so possibly, was it a quart that should have gone back in with a US quart = 950ml?
Here is the simple rule by Harley 3 qts engine oil. 1 qt. trans oil and 1 qt. Primary oil.
With your primary case, it's more important to make sure to fill to the correct level then any specific quantity... when draining, you'll get varied amounts out depending on a few factors, how thick or thin the old oil is, whether it was under filled or over filled before, even the temperature can play a part.... but it's critical that you fill to the bottom of the clutch plates..pay more attention to that Robert than the measured amount..
Many thanks for the sound advice, keep up the great videos, love the practical way you set about working on bikes.
I changed the primary oil on my dyna 2005 wich in manual says 26 oz (768ml) and i saw you in other of your videos explaining that the oil level must be touching the exterior silver metal ring of the clutch. if i put 26 oz as I did (only rode 100kilometers yet) it gets like you said in your other video and like the manual, but in other videos from you and also other people i've seen the oil level upper in the clutch so now i'm confused and thinking i'm riding at minimum
Hi Jose, it's important not to 'overthink' it, it's not absolutely critical, the oil should be touching the bottom of the clutch spring disc, which is the edge of the clutch plates, as long as it's there, or thereabouts, it's fine. You'll know if it's drastically wrong because it will 'slam' into gear heavy and be difficult to change, so as it rides ok, it's fine. Just enjoy your bike mate.
@@Moonfleet41 ok then, right now it's like you describe and the bike runs fantastic but I don't wanna mess with the oils because here in Seville we will be at 45 celcius very soon, 4 months woth these temperatures from 10 am to 20 pm non stop ajajaja
Oil does not break down it gets dirty
Hey Dellboy i aint been deaeukkp⁰
Always a pleasure to not only watch your videos but have one (or a series like this) that I can follow along with as well. So thanks!
But I have a question. I'm changing the primary oil on a 2011 Road King. I removed the darby cover and checked the oil level - it appeared to be the same as your Softtail. And I measured the drained oil into a clean, accurate container. Here's the problem; I recovered 32 ounces of old fluid but my Harley manual specifies 38 ounces wet. What would you do?
Hi there, one of the reasons I check the level first, then drain out, then put that amount back in fresh, is you're bound to return to the correct oil level... perhaps you haven't got all the oil out, but whatever happens, you can't run it with the oil level too high, so you'll just have to fill it to the correct oil level, unless you're prepared to remove the primary cover and investigate further.
@@Moonfleet41 Got it. Thanks!!
question : All 3 oil levels are with the bike on a lift....So if that's accurate, measuring oil levels on a jiffy stand is an inaccurate reading then , correct?? I have a 2012 dyna switchback.
Different models vary the oil level check between upright and side stand... so check the exact specification for YOUR exact bike in your service manual mate.. it will lay it out clear and concise.
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks for the reply, My service book shows engine oil on jiffy stand; tranny and primary both upright.I said it before, your videos are getting me thru the winter much appreciated
Great tutorial as always! At 10k miles service, is there a point in removing the entire primary cover to see what's there? Or do you recommend just using the 2 covers like in this video? It's a 2003 Fatboy
I would only bother if there was tell tail swarf in the oil when i drained it, or the oil was very dark grey indicating possible clutch plates wear... but if it's just to "see what's there"...Remember it's over £35 for a primary gasket..! Your choice thought.!
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks a lot mate. I already have one in silicone I think. They are expensive, I am just scared to not make it sealed tight. I know you love Hylomar , so I was thinking if I did it, I would put that on the gasket so it would stick to the primary when putting it back on :)
I just want to know how many quarts do you put in when you take the primary cover off and start over a new
That specification will be clearly laid out in your manual mate, just like all the other fluids !
38 oz of primary oil go in the primary on a O7 Ultra Classic. All three Drain plugs get torqued to 14-24 Ft pounds.Derby cover 80-90 inch pounds
Hello all, wanna ask about oil. I ride occasionaly on weekends and live in warm humid area. Is it safe for the engine to use oils that are not specifically made for v twins or air cooled engines but have the same weight and api rating? Like These oils like total 3000, motul which are 20w50 sj/cf, theyre the same as mobil one vt and much cheaper.
Because these other oils are easier to get in place where i live.
Yes, absolutely. If you check out the advice in the HD service manuals, it is always stated (word for word).."In the absence of a dedicated Harley Davidson oil, use oil rated for Diesel Engines" ... so as that advice comes from Harley Davidson themselves.. you can trust it.. Hope that helps you.. Good luck.. Del.
@@Moonfleet41 yep i read that somewhere in the manuals..however i recently found an article explaining that sj oils are not suitable for 00-up harley or do not use oil with less zync (somethingnlike that) and so on. That got me a little confused.
Should the engine be okay with sl/sm/sn cf rated oils? Should i even be concerned about the s* rating?
Thanks and greets from Walter. Belgium Europ
You're welcome Walter, good to hear from you!
Nice Q- card on your rt hand!
Concerning the primary drain plug you will find the torque specification in Softail Model service manual 99482-09 chapter 1 page 24 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm). Thank you for all your great videos. I have a 2008 Fat Boy and watch your individual videos before starting each maintenance chore. John from Lake Tishomingo, Hillsboro Missouri USA
Thank you for explaining everything!!! :). I have an 02 Harley Heritage - just about to roll over 169,000 miles on her!! :). do you recommend changing the primary & transmission fluids every 10,000 or 12,000? I’m using synthetic
Is that an Alabama License plate hanging near the door ??
Old video, we're in a different place now.. but year, probably, sent over as a gift by viewers.. we have a lot of kind and loyal support from The South..!
Really good videos man. I'm going to change my fluids on my 88' Softail tomorrow. I think mine is pretty much the same? I just got this bike a few weeks ago and I cant wait to get the trans and primary oil changed so I know its all fresh fluids! Great job... "happy riding from Michigan!" 👍
Great video Del. Wish I would have watched prior to filling my primary up to the top and then starting the engine. Now I’m thinking I should drain it and put the correct amount in. I’m thinking my clutch plates will be soaked. Arrrgh !! Any tips on how to correct my screw up ?
Here is an unexpected insight. Watching you teach us how to service a Harley, a bike I do not own and will likely never own, is a bit like watching Bill 'Bojangles' Robinson teaching Shirley Temple a new way to go up stairs. I wind up learning more than I expected and I also find myself smiling and entertained at the end. See if you can see what I mean: ruclips.net/video/LrBjFokI4jM/видео.html
Much appreciated 🙏🏽