What up fellow riders, I'm moving to a new format! Moving forward I will no longer be answering questions to those who are not subscribed to my channel. Also for those who need assistance by way of video review, email correspondence, videos chat..ect, I will now be offering private one-on-one sessions where I help you troubleshoot your issues via video chat! With two heads on the job this should should help you get up and running in no time.
I found that the 1/4 inch drill bit is the exact size for the rivets and fits the holes closer than 11/64th bit, but I finished the solder job and installed this morning and it worked!! The butterfly’s opened when flipping the switch and when it warmed up shortly after they closed. It didn’t do that before the fix! I believe we did it! Thank you so much chemist!! You’re the man! I liked and subbed! Let’s goo!
Wow, has it been that long since i made this video, time flies. This was my first attempt at working on my own bike after seeing the cost to replace this unit at the steelership. So glad i grabbed a pair and went for it, the rest is cyclemotive history. Glad it helped you out, stick around, theres more to come... thanks for the comments,
Dude!!! You saved my ass this spring while i was stuck on the side of the road. Managed to wiggle it and see it would code one way, and not the other. Walked on to the convenience store, walked out with 2 rubber bands. Wrapped them neatly around the plug and entire stva and it lasted the entire summer👍👍👍 crapped out again this week so just did the resolder and boom...runs like a dream👌 Thanks a million bro🙏
Two rubber bands, lmao.. that's priceless bro.. very ingenious.. glad I could help ya out. If you want to permanently fix this issue, because it will come back at some point then check out my updated video here.. ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Bro just a heads up for everyone ... it doesn’t matter where the gear is positioned when putting it back together as long as it’s the correct side up.. if it doesn’t align with your throttle body you can just use a small flat head and spin it to the correct angle to install , no need to take it all apart again .. that’s what I did and it worked flawless
Awesome bro, thanks for sharing this information. Given the successful number of viewings this DIY gets I'm sure your information is going to help someone out at some point
For sure man ..Also .. I’m probably going to make a video on this because I haven’t seen one .. if your getting c28/29 code and you fix this and still get a c29 code and hear your throttle body clicking when you turn on ignition .. your secondary butterfly’s are over extended and stuck . U can fix this near your throttle cable on the left side .. U have to move the butterfly’s where they can operate free
@@philramsey00 please help me! This is exactly my problem. I’ve taken this on and off and adjusted with a screw driver again and again. It seems like no matter what when I turn on the bike with the key, my butterflies bottom out and chatter. When I give it gave, they don’t seem to open and the bike can’t rev up. Please help me understand how to properly get this back installed. I know this is an older threat but I’m counting on you man!!
So I don't usually leave any comments on RUclips but this one deserved it. Awesome video and a great fix. I have an 04' GSXR this happened to and I was able to do almost all the work myself. Took the actual STVA to a computer shop to do the soldering so I knew it would be solid. Thanks for the video, saved me a ton of money not taking it to a shop!!
Hey Mathew, thanks for stopping in and staying so. Glad I was able to get you going again. Hopefully you'll subscribe and stick around for a bit.. I have a rebuild coming soon that's going to cover a lot more things..
A very big THANK YOU James. I was at a track day in the weekend and the very same thing happened to my bike. It went into 'Limp-Home-Mode'. At least I was able to ride it back to the pits. I got home, researched the Internet, found your video, pulled my bike apart, fixed the lose wires in the printed circuit and re-built it. The warning light is out and no codes are present now. The bike idles well and engine is back to full power!!! Very grateful to you. Many thanks. Blessings.
I've just bought my motorcycle and it came with the FI message.. I was trying to find some helpful video that could help me to do the proper repair and now that I've seen this it will be a lot easier... Thank you
Hi Linda, Sorry i'm not understanding what your asking of me, from my understanding you have a 2006 GSXR/600 that you wrecked and ended up frying the ignition. Whats confusing me is the diode question.. please clarify
so my STVa checks out, i'm the dude with the 07 GSX-R750 that was talking to you on Reddit, I got banned lol. Now its time to check the harness and im hoping its not the ECU because they are super expensive and idk what else that means. Got someone to help me but I told him to start with the fuel pump.
Awesome brother, glad to help you out. Thanks for sharing your success story, it gives other people faith that they can do the same with these simple instructions.
Mr. Moreno , I just have to tell you THANK YOU. I searched many forums and videos for this issue. Your Crystal clear video and excellent commentating were spot on. I was quite pleased to complete this repair and see the F1 light disappear. My machine is smooth and runs the way it should now. Cheers
thank you very much to have took time to make these two videos on secondary butterfly. Very informative it's helps me a lot to treat the problem on my gsxr 750 2005
This is my exact problem I have a 05 gsxr 600 I turn my bike on turn on the kill switch and my butterfly’s struggle to open u might just solved my problem with this 1 💪🏾💯💯💯
I have the same issue, the bike idles weird and it has been bogging down when I pull the throttle hard, I cleaned the gas tank and replaced some things, but the issue was still happening, my bike pulled the c28 and c29 codes. I’m going to try this fix and hopefully it works.
James, the circuit board went bad on mine. No resistance. I ended up running solder wire externally. Runs better not using motherboard. I have 7.8ohms resistance at each pair of connectors.
Crypto Guru awesome bro, glad i could help ya out. If you havent done so already be sure to subscribe and like, helps me out with the channel. There are a shit ton more DIYs and fixes here that may benefit you in the future.
Glad I can help you out brother. If this happens to you a second time or even if you just want to get in there now, check out this video on how to permanently fix this issue. ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Dude....if I had your number, I would have personally called you to thank you for this....as this video have solved my C28 issue. Brilliant video, and clear instructions! I litterally cannot than you enough!!!!! LEGEND!!!!! Greetings from South Africa
Goodday bro, I'm having the same problem on my gsxr 06 750cc, how did the bike present before u knew it was the stva? I'm from south Africa too....free state
Dylan Kramer glad i could help, don't forget to subscribe and click that bell, I have loads of videos that may help you in the future when it comes to repair. If your still experiencing the c28 code hit me back and I'll help walk u through some other troubleshooting tips that may fix this issue.
Awesome brother, glad I could help ya out.. before you do, take a look at this video for the permanent fix. If you're going to go in there, you're going to want to make sure you never have to revisit this issue again. ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Veo los comentarios con traductor y me doy cuenta que muchas felicitaciones y agradecidos por tu video, ojalá me puedas entender ya que necesito sacarme una duda, si el Mikuni o servomotor lo desconecto y les quito las mariposas secundarias también, independiente que salga falla en el tablero,el motor presentaría alguna falta de potencia al momento de andar?. Gracias y saludos desde Chile!!🇨🇱 🖐️
What's going on brother, yes the ECU will recognize that it's not receiving the signal and put the bike in limp mode. It will not go past a certain speed or RPM during your ride. If you want to disconnect this unit you need to buy a device I believe sold by snitch racing that will let you bypass the STVA.
Dude thank you so much for the very clear details and pictures. I messed mine up and fought it before deciding to take it apart and I put the gear in wrong then like you said do it again and put it the other way and bam working perfect and no c28 code! You saved the day man.
Awesome brother, glade I could help ya out. Be sure to check out the updated version where I show you how to permanently fix this issue. ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
I went a different route just because I didn't want the problem repeating itself again at some point, I soldered wires from the plug terminal bypassing the board, and it worked like a charm, then the F1 light stayed on -C00 so I did an oil change and adjusted the tps and voilá light is gone and the idle is beautiful, now if I can find a valve adjustment tutorial and I'll be set
Correct, thats why everyone choses to fix or buy a used working one from ebay. Its funny cuz you buy a whole throttle body assembly with the STVA off ebay for about $150, the price it should cost just for the STVA part.. if they sold separately.
Thx mate, finally found a video about this c28 error and a good one two! Really apreciate the effort! Very clean and straight to the subject! Cheers and stay safe!
Great! Glad I can help you out If you do get in there be sure to check out this video and permanently fix this issue ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
If I could thumb up this twice I would. Very well made vid as well as great info. Thanks for being so detailed. Especially in the Alignment of the parts-before and after. Great video quality as well. Very informative and well done. Thanks for saving me a bundle. Cheers
Haha thanks. I get both ends of the spectrum.. Some say I talk to much to get to the point.. lol. If your looking at this video then you probably have the C28 code showing.. if so then you need to see this video if you don't want to do this again.. ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
@@TheChemistDIY lol I understand, we are not typically a patient group of people 😆 you just sound like someone with some technical/engineering knowledge outside of bikes. I’m an electrician and thus think I can work on my little motorcycle (lol the hubris), I’ve done quite a bit of maintenance and repairs myself, but I know when to pay a professional. Btw I ride a 2003 gsxr 750: I do not have a c28 code, but what I do have is a loud chattering sound (electronic sound) coming from the valves after riding and warming up the engine, this happens before turning over engine, while electronics are ON (STVA opens in anticipation of start and engine warm up). On cold start, no issues, this only happens after I’ve ridden enough to get engine temps up. I haven’t taken time to get airbox open to see what they’re doing or do a continuity test, I’ll take a look soon!
@@lowoctane your assumption is correct. Father was an electrician, went to trade school myself for Micro computer repair.. fiddled around with telecommunication radio frequencies, PLC and logic control programming.. found out it wasn't for me, I seriously dislike formulas, oscilloscopes and sign wave technology.. but damn if its not handy when you need it..lol. Went bck to school again and got a bachelor's in IT (information system) and currently working on a few cyber security certifications on the ethical side of course.. Anywho.. The electronic sound on your K3.. does it raise up and down (sound of failing component) and have a clicking noise.. if so then your area of concern is the STVA.. My cousin has a K3 and as soon as you switch the key to the accessory position the bike primes and you hear this pretty loud electronic squeal from the STVA as it struggles to move the secondary flys to the correct position during its self check. This happens every time for him (cold or hot) but since the bike runs perfectly normal and no errors on the clock he's just learned to live with it.. BUGS THE CRAP OUT ME THO!.. lol. Id rip that mother chucker out and crack her open to see what the hell is going on but as you know parts for these year bikes are becoming scarce and he doesn't want to risk messing it up.. If it were me, I'd remove the STVA from the stack but leave plugged in, open the secondary coins up and start the bike. With the StVA in hand see if that sounds goes away.. if it does then you know it's your STVA struggling to move the Flys.. Replacement STVA are super hard to get a hold of and quite expensive when you do find one.. If not this then other things that make chattering sounds (minis electronic sound) would be your chain tensioner and guide.. or valves need adjustment (bucket and shims). This is more of a ticking or clacking sound depending on how bad there worn out. This one you can use the old long screwdriver to the ear and block trick to diagnose. Well I've talked your ear off enough, sounds like got some diagnosing to do, hopefully one of these points you in the right direction.
You welcome, thanks for dropping in and commenting . no worries brother, it's a simple repair as you can see. Have all your parts ready on the day off and you will have your bike fixed and running in an hour. Be sure to come back and post your experiences to let other first timers know if this video got you through it. Good luck!
Hi James. I have a 2005GSXR1000. I have spent lots of money on my bike, too much money, $1700 in the last year at the local moto-shop. I'm broke, I don't want to sell my bike. I'm very sad today because while riding my bike it started loosing power. It would sometimes ride fine (when not trying to go fast) but when I'd try to hit it hard, it would hesitate or bog some what. Now, I noticed that when I hit the run switch while the key is on, it will make a clicking sound just as the fuel pump starts priming. The sound is like three quick clicks. Sounds likes an electrical clicking sound coming from the right side of the engine. I think its the STVA, but there is NO code at the dash. Tomorrow morning I'm going to see what I can do, but to tell you the truth I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to electrical problems. It would be so AWESOME if you could give me your opinion on this matter. Should I try something, or should I give up and just sell my bike.
Hi James. I'm so glad to see a reply from you, thanks. I did replace the stva with a used unit from ebay. It got better, but it wasn't running perfect. I then bought a used fuel pump unit from ebay, runs great now. Last knight I almost lost my life on my bike. I almost rear ended a car at about 150mph, I was tucking down for better aerodynamics, my helmets forehead blocked my view of objects far away. I came up on that car so fast, I was almost hitting top speed when the car lights came into view. There was no way I could slow down in time so I went left, I passed inches from that car. I love motorcycles, but now I'm lost at what to do. Please use your head, is what I would say to motorcycle owners. Thanks for the reply James.
Awesome, glade I could help you out. Consider sending the channel a Thanks, help out the channel out greatly.. oh and you may want to look at this video to complete the process.. ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Bill M, Give it a try! you cant break whats already broken has always been my mentality. be sure to come back and post if this fix worked for you so we have log of different applications it works on. Good luck!
james moreno unfortunately there is a different unit on the '01 and it uses a more complicated system of cables which run to a small box which contains the servo motor. This box hangs roughly 6" down. However, I did briefly get my secondary valves working when I gave a little twist to the assembly itself (where the cables attach to the shaft holding the butterflies) and the valves moved a small amount. I cycled the ignition and the butterflies worked properly. Dropped the tank, took a run around the neighborhood with no FI light! Thought... awesome! Sadly, it didn't last. After stopping and restarting the light was back on. So more work to be done, but thanks again for the video. It's all helpful.
I just finished this and the F.I. light is gone. Thanks for the video. Getting the throttle shaft, gear mechanism and TPS to line up was a PITA. I must of got it wrong 4 times before I got it right.
Glad I was able to help you out. First time always is a B***h but now you know how to fix it.. Good/Bad news is, if you didn't see my video on how to permanently fix this issue you'll have a second chance at it..lol
@@TheChemistDIY I did see it but didn't have the wire to complete the permanent fix. Also I wanted it running for today so I could ride to work. And since I do things more half-assed than you I didn't replace the rivets. So I could have it back off and apart in 5 minutes or less 😁
Ahh, then your golden bro. You did your homework as I see it. Yeah I never rivet mine back together either, nuts & bolts is the way to go since this part will undoubtedly give you issues if not permanently fixed.. even now after that permanent fix I still refrain from permanently closing.. you just never know with this part.. lol. I was planning on making a video to show how to convert this into a pigtail, like the newer models but the damn permanent fix worked out so good that I don't think I'll ever get that chance unless I'm doing it for a friend's bike.
@@TheChemistDIY apparently my solder skills suck. Only made it halfway to work before the light was back 🤦♂️. I'll be doing the permanent fix some time this week.👍
@@TurboNeon185 yeah, it's a lot easier to solder the wire to the two points then it is to solder the pin to the small round trace on the circuit board.. plus when your soldering the PCB traces your more likely to cook them off the board and b like.. where did it go..lol. I have no doubt youll get this right the 2nd time around..
Very nice video thanks, I think I am naving the same issue on GIX750 k8. you were concerning about the position of the V shaped mechanism but I am concerned about the position of the gearing of the motor. I mean what if I accidentally rotate the gearing of the motor? does its position is relevant or not? so do I just have to pay attention to the position of the V shaped mechanism or even at the position of the motor gearing? thanks
The gear on the stepper motor does not matter..move it all you want.. it has one job and that's to move forward n backward in micro increments.. aka steps What keeps track of movement or positioning is the TPS and why it's important you place the V shape cog in the correct orientation upon assembly as this is connected directly to the TPS. See this video before you perform this DIY so you have a complete understanding and how to permanently fix this issue ruclips.net/video/Hp7boEcUV9U/видео.html
Thanks for this great old video. I have removed the STVA on my K4 followed your steps. But my solder points looking like brand new, I measured them, seems no problems whatsoever. Do I need to renew them anyway? I have another suspicion, the preowner installed LED turn lights, looks like they are eventually wired around the ECU, could that eventually cause C-28?
@@REDFOGSX I would Shirley hope no one would tie into the harness at the ECM.. any who take a look at this video. ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
@@TheChemistDIY Ah thank you, okay I put the STVA back into the bike already. I have to take it out again, lol. Online they said C-28 could also be a problem by the ECU though. But the other video makes sense, because I'm start driving and everything is okay, suddenly C-28 or F1 appears in the display. It can disappear again. I think the chance of it to pop up more likely when the bike is warm. I have the STVA with the cables coming out btw.
I think I'm having a problem with mine. When I switch the key on it'll make a twitching sound longer than normal but only sometimes. Bike runs good and I don't have any codes
Asking here, Why is it woolich shall i say recommended to remove or disable this valve is it necesarrily to do so or it is necessary to do it so that no future error will occur? And is it advisable to remove and disable it through flash just to prevent any codes? Thanks buddy and ride safe aswell...
Not sure who is recommending this mod but I would advise against it. Where most of this misleading information comes from is the fact that the part cannot be bought and only comes as part of the purchase of a entire throttlebody Assembly costing around $1400-$1800 USD. The only other way is to purchase one from a person on eBay who will price gouge you for a refurbished/repaired STVA knowing how hard it is to get them. Typically in the range of $200-$400 USD. So with that said, can you remove or delete the STVA and Secondary butterflies? Yes you can but also what cost? .. low end power is the answer. In order to understand why it's not recommended you have to understand it's functioning. The rider controls the primary butterflies (gold color) through the throttle cable.. the Secondary flies are controlled by the ECU or bikes computer. Within the computer programming you have the MAP, basically a programed value database that Suzuki wrote for optimal/peak performance and the ECU/MAP moves the secondary flies to the correct position for optimal airflow. This is very important for daily driving as it saves on fuel through air to fuel mixturing. This secondary flies also helps with cold start as it brings the bike to operating temperature faster, without this the bike is hard to start in the mornings. The trade off. If you as a daily driver remove the the secondary flies and STVA you lose all that was mentioned above AND low end power. Low end power is important on take off. Meaning your bike will now take longer to get up to speed. Ever get in a cheap low end car and romp on the gas and the car takes forever to get up to speed.. well that will be your bike after removing the STVA and flies. So why do people perform this mod. Well, While you loose low end.. you also gain high end speed because there is nothing governing the air flow now. So at highway speeds you may see an increase. That can only be proven with a dyno test which no one has done that I have seen. You will also need a tune to account for the new/increased airflow. The STVA cannot simply be removed though. Removing the part good or bad will cause a C28 code and put the bike in limp mode. Limp mode reduces the bike performance severely just to get you home to fix the issue (I have a video on how to repair a bad STVA) Online you can find what is known and called as the STVE eliminator. This basically mimics the STVA signal to the ECU, tricking it into thinking it's still present and or functioning. Only problem is that now you have no way to control the butterflies. secondary Butterfly movement is controlled by the STVA and Secondary TPS or STPS. So to bypass that issue you simply remove the top or Silver plates (flies). Again this mod is meant for someone riding track (quarter mile) and not the daily driver or even weekend rider. A track rider is going to accommodate the removal of the STVA and take off lag (loss of lower end) with nitrous and other performance mods... And we'll, the daily driver will think he's cool and has a few extra ponies now that he's read a few forums, performed the mode and believes the hype that he just increased his horsepower, but yet is losing at light to light...lol I hope that explains it for everyone.
Hey mate great video. I have a small problem with the way in which you install the STVA back to the throttle body. I can’t get mine to align to the rod. Hope u are still here
Riki Fowell, sure am brother. With your fingers either push down or pull up on the butterflies within the throttle body. Moving the butterflies will thus orient the rod that STVA slides into. Do this the same time you are trying to apply the STVA and it should slide into place. Hope that help!
Thanks brother, if your researching how to fix this issue be sure to check out this one out to before doing this repair.. ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Aye man I have a 2005 Gsxr 750 and it’s jerking sometimes when I go to go fast it doesn’t loose gear or anything just then sometimes I’ll shift and it’ll be fine any thought
Dear James, I recently subscribed to yr channel and find your videos extremely helpful. I own a Suzuki boulevard M50 which also employs STVA. Can you pls advise if this component on the throttle body is also responsible for controlling the idle speed since the throttle body on the boulevard does not seem to hv a separate idle speed control valve like most cars or some bikes also hv. I ask because someone I know is having erratic idle speed issues. Already told him to check the TPS, STVA and vaccum lines. Many thanks.
RS - thanks for joining the channel brother, any time I can lend a hand I'm here to help. Get down on your hands knees on the left side of the bike. Look up under the tank between the two cylinders. You will see a large screw with ridges to grab it with your fingers, or a slot to put a screwdriver on it. This is the idle stop screw. Twisting it in raise the idle, twisting it out lowers the idle. I believe idle speed for the M50 should be around 11k-12k rpms if I'm not mistaken, but then again I tend to run my idle higher despite what the good book suggests. Also when was the last time you changed out the spark plugs. If you can't remember then it's probably time but nonetheless pulling them to take a read to see how the engine is running is always good.. (rich or lean conditions). Last but not least check for vacuum leaks using the old WD-40 or Carberator cleaner trick. Spray this stuff on or near hoses and engine case splittings and listen for a change in idle speed as it get sucked into the engine. if it does change then you know you are close to finding that leak. Hope that helps
Any time brother. If you like this video or in are need of this repair be sure to check out the updated version below for the permanent fix to this issue. ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
He didn't show where the actual failure is, its under the motor plate. The pcb lead brakes from the board flexing, typically NOT the exposed solder that he put on there. The fix is to solder a wire from the back of the pcb to the front of the pcb effectively eliminating the trace so the board flex cant brake the leads anymore.
Excellent video, dude.. Had the FI light come on last month, bike won’t rev above 8k...seems to run relatively normal below that. Dealer finally got back to me, and here’s what they had to say: THE PART # FOR THE THROTTLE BODY IS 13405-29G00. YOUR COST ON THAT WOULD BE 931+TAX. THE PART THAT IS BAD IS THE CONTROL ASSEMBLY BOX ON THE END OF IT. IF YOU WERE TO FIND SOMETHING USED IT WOULD NEED TO HAVE THAT. Does this sound legit? I wasn’t expecting such a high quote, and now have to decide to either fix or junk the bike as I’m sick of sticking money into it. Thoughts? Would be very grateful if the STVA fix saved me a grand..
Well unfortunately from the dealership the STVA is never sold alone, they want you to buy the entire throttle body assembly which comes with the STVA, this is the reason why everyone opts to fix it. If youre lucky you may find one on ebay but its pretty rear to find the 04-05 models STVA. To tell you the truth its a very easy fix as you can see below from all the success stories from those who viewed my video and attempted to do it themselves. You have to look at it this way. The bike doesnt work as it should with the STVA malfunctioning now so what do you have to lose buy cracking it open and taking a wack at it, you cant break whats already broken. Its about a 2 beer job and 45 minutes of garage time getting to know the inner workings of your favorite girl. So grab a soldering iron, some solder and a drill bit and get to work brother. Once you lick this one youll become fearless tackling any other challenge she throws at you in the future.
james moreno Thanks for the detailed reply, brother! Turns out this was the issue...and it only took me about an hour to resolve. What you described about the dealer quote makes total sense now as well. Your video was a big help, dude, so thank you! Subbed!
@@seejayb awesome brother, glad i could help you out. With the exceptions of the carb models, GIXXRs are pretty much the same with minor changes throughout the years so much of what you find on my channel will apply. The Stealership will always rape you , there a business, and they have to survive. If your new to working on your own bike i suggest you invest in manual and some decent tools and get to learning and thought of taking your bike back to the dealership for any repairs will be a thing of the past.
Hi James, good video. After washing my 2004 GSXR 600 I had a C28 and C29. I did the soldering and now I only have a C29 error left. What could be the problem? Your help would be much appreciated.
Ok, so you've alleviated the C28 code which was the STVA (usually broken solder joints). The C29 code if I'm not mistaken is the STPS attached to the STVA. Check to make sure the it is properly connected, inspect the wiring to make sure none are broken or wire shielding is melted exposing the internal wire causing it to ground out. Also, remove the connector from the STPS and make sure pins within are good and in place. You may also want to spray some contact cleaner in both. Let me know if that works for you.
Alright so this all worked almost perfect the first 3 gears are good but i feel like 4th and 5th gear dont have the full power like before and wnt rev really high, is this because i need to re adjust the throttle or should i try to resolder it or what do you think? I felt like when i changed into higher gears it would rev all the way high for a second an then wouldnt go past 11rpm. I got it to 140 mph but not 160mph like i normally can. Its like theres not alot of power in the higher gears
Never heard of this killing the bikes run time but none the less the code is being displayed so try looking at this first.. the like below will show you how to test and permanently fix so you don't have to deal with it anymore ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
I think your talking about the crankcase breather. This is the tube that runs from the air filter box to the engine case. What do you want to know about this. Google didn't translate your message to well..
@@airtontezolim4802 so this foam acts as an oil catch and release. The foam collector keeps oil from getting all over the inside your air filter and box. Once the foam gets saturated, the oil returns back down the tube and into the crack case. It should be replaced. Over time this foam will deteriorate, mines did. To replace the foam I used a closed cell, high density, fire retardant packing foam that I got from a Amazon delivery one day. You can get that here. amzn.to/3ZGr0rh Some chose to just plug the hole and remove the line all together and just add a small filter to the Crank case. amzn.to/3X4IMmt Either way you do it, there needs to be air introduction into the case. Hope that helps
You may find what u need here.. pause the video to take a look at the manual and write down the A, B, C, D pin locations on the STVA .. then listen to where I have placed the jumper.. you can also see in the manual shots the wire colors.. there are other videos in my arsenal that deal with the STVA, STP and TPS that may show a clearer shot or the wires... hope that helps.. ruclips.net/video/18KR_RV0tVQ/видео.html
hellow Leo, i need more spacifics. What do you mean by installed incorrectly, are you speaking physically as in the butterflies have been installed upside down or are we talking about miss alignment to where the butterflies are not in the correct position. You have to remember that airflow plays a synchronized game with gas, if your butterflies are out of sync your either getting to much or to little air and you could experience symptoms such as hard to start, flooding or bogging or misfiring.. i guess the question i should be asking is.. what are you symptoms and why do you belive they have been installed incorrectly
Our gsxr has an error on stva..we already check the coupler resistance it's shows 7.3 ..can you help us how to fix if the reading is higher than the approximate limit?
What's Marlon, sure no problem, first perform the test in this video on your board to see if the issue has to do with broken solder connections. Most if not all C28 STVA code Issue has to do with the prong connection coming loose from the board. Link below ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html Also, Just an FYI, though I haven't officially released it yet because I'm still updating, I have created a website where you can now easily retrieve all my tutorials for the GSXR..(link below) plenty of good stuff so lock it in. www.thechemistdiy.com/search/label/Maintenance?m=1 Let me know if that was your issue.
Daniel Roberts, i would resolder to ensure good connectivity. A few extra minutes of your time is well worth it and also gives piece of mind. At least youll know that if it doesnt solve your issue that the problem couldnt be bad solder joints.
Yeah, its wedged in the case pretty tightly.. shoot some WD-40 along the edges and use a pick tool along the seems to slowly rock it out.. should come free that way..
I have an 06gsxr 750 and I cant access the tps because the frame is in the way. And in ur vid it seems like your throttle bodies is raised. Is it because of the different years and models?
Could possibly be a little different then urs do to the difference in years, i e never seen the 06. One good tool for tight quarters is a closed end ratchet that holds a Phillips head. This tool resembles an 8mm box end wrench and in fact you can probably use just that to hold the required torques bit head.
What's up bro. Hope all is well. I have the same exact problem, but what happened is I live on a hill, it rained pretty heavy last week, and the water filled the bottom part of my bike cover and the weight of the water took my bike out. So basically my bike was sitting in water for a few minutes until I picked it up. Yesterday I rode to work, and noticed the c28 code. I took the stva off and shook it and water came out of it. It's the same one in your video. But my bike is a 2016 gsxs1000. Should I open it as you did and check the parts inside, to see if the water messed it up? Im gonna check the butterflies too, but if they're not functioning properly, could it be the stva or you think it might be a different problem?
Man, this is going to be a tough one bro, a bike uder water is definitely no bueno.. well no sense worrying about it.. let's get to work. Crack it open and dry it out but before you do pour some 90% rubbing alchohol on the internal board and wiring and clean with Qtip.. it all should evaporate and leave no chance of corrosion. if does not fully dry, hit with a blow dry... since you have open might as well hit those solder welds again.. at least you know after assembly theres nothing further that needs to be done here and you can move on to the next part with piece of mind.
You did what?!?!... Brother you may have just ended your engines life... Your talking about two entirely different engine ratios.. depending on how long you ran with the 600 ECU the timing difference alone should have killed you valves.. But with that said I don't have enough information as to what your have done and why you put a 600 ECU in in the first place...
@@TheChemistDIY my bike is a gsr 600 but the engine broke down so i bought a 750 engine to replace it and it sparks fine just that alot of misfre and backfire
Your Issue is most likely going to be this.. Unless your water pump has gone out.. I would first start with the less expensive option which is this. Other thing I would look at is the thermal switch on the RAD or you fan. ruclips.net/video/qxVVUNRXFw8/видео.html
@@TheChemistDIY yea i just replaced the fuses for the fan and everything bc i thought it was the fun but it still was overheating. So I’ll make sure i check tht out
If your speaking of the STVA (C28 Code) then that would be costly as most usually don't sell this alone. Most sell this part and the throttle body assembly together. It's not that hard of a fix and if you don't want to visit this again then have a look at this video. ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Amazing video. I sent mine out yesterday to MyAirbags.com in Georgia but now i know exactly what to look for. Thank you and super helpful. Respect and stay safe cheers
Hi I have a cold start issue / no error codes TPS is in the correct position but I have the dynojet jet power commander would the power commander affect the cold start it’s fine once it’s warm I watch your install bid and saw that you tapped into the stva / stps any info would be ace bro
I'm assuming that you have an 04-05 750 with the preceding information. The PCIII shouldn't affect your cold start and the T-tap wasn't connected to the STVA, it's connected to the TPS so that the PCIII knows how much throttle is being applied. Try raising your engine idle to 1300-1400 rpms. The service manual and dealerships have this normally set to 1200 rpms but I have found that this doesn't work for my bike and gives me a hard time during warm up. I bumped mine up to 1350 rmps and that seems to be the sweet spot.. no more cold start issues. If you need to find my DIY video information fast, including how to adjust your idle, cruz on over to my website and find all my videos on wrenching on your bike under the motorcycle tab, link below. Let me know if the above info worked for you. www.thechemistdiy.com
Thanks mate yes k4 once warm it idles nice a 1400 but when cold it drops to maybe 800 and then dies I have no error codes and my TPS is -c so inntje sweet spot. It runs mint when warm just he cold start up itbdisn t bother me if have to give it a few revs on start up no issues aslong as it’s not causing damage to my bike
Hey Triston.. just an fyi removing the secondary butterflies has nothing to do with the C28 code Because the ECM will still see an undervalued reading from the STVA as non operational or incorrect value thus putting you in limp home mode. Only when the ECM sees the correct value from the STVA can you remove the secondary butterflies... make sense?
@@BabyTJ92 That's awesome news brother, it's always a great feeling to know that you are fully capable of working on your own bike no matter what the issue. There's never no shame in asking for guidance but always make sure you make an attempt to try and fix just for your knowledge..remember that you Can't break what's already broken, you can only move up from there. Glad to hear your up and running..
apparently it is.. give my tutorial a try and let me know if it works for u. heres a quick google search that leads me to believe it is..good luck burgmanusa.com/forums/52-burgman
What up fellow riders, I'm moving to a new format! Moving forward I will no longer be answering questions to those who are not subscribed to my channel. Also for those who need assistance by way of video review, email correspondence, videos chat..ect, I will now be offering private one-on-one sessions where I help you troubleshoot your issues via video chat!
With two heads on the job this should should help you get up and running in no time.
Id like that video chat man…
hey man. I need to ask you a question in regards to my 2003 gsxr 1000 stva sensor. how can I reach you privately?
I found that the 1/4 inch drill bit is the exact size for the rivets and fits the holes closer than 11/64th bit, but I finished the solder job and installed this morning and it worked!! The butterfly’s opened when flipping the switch and when it warmed up shortly after they closed. It didn’t do that before the fix! I believe we did it! Thank you so much chemist!! You’re the man! I liked and subbed! Let’s goo!
Almost 4 years later and this video help me. You're right, cant seem to find a vid showing how the STVA works in normal condition. Thanks for the vid.
Wow, has it been that long since i made this video, time flies. This was my first attempt at working on my own bike after seeing the cost to replace this unit at the steelership. So glad i grabbed a pair and went for it, the rest is cyclemotive history. Glad it helped you out, stick around, theres more to come... thanks for the comments,
Your a legend. You helped me with those broken solder points!
Big thank you ❤
Glad I could help
I just tried this fix step by step the way you did it and it worked, i just fix my bike thanks to your step by step instructions, thank you very much.
hey thats awesome! Glad my video could help you out. Did you run into any hiccups along the way or did it all go smoothly?
RUclips should pay these content uploaders alot more then the prank uploaders
Great video I didn’t need to desolder I just expanded the solder I originally had because I was impatient to wait and it worked perfectly!
Dude!!! You saved my ass this spring while i was stuck on the side of the road. Managed to wiggle it and see it would code one way, and not the other. Walked on to the convenience store, walked out with 2 rubber bands. Wrapped them neatly around the plug and entire stva and it lasted the entire summer👍👍👍 crapped out again this week so just did the resolder and boom...runs like a dream👌 Thanks a million bro🙏
Two rubber bands, lmao.. that's priceless bro.. very ingenious.. glad I could help ya out.
If you want to permanently fix this issue, because it will come back at some point then check out my updated video here..
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Bro just a heads up for everyone ... it doesn’t matter where the gear is positioned when putting it back together as long as it’s the correct side up.. if it doesn’t align with your throttle body you can just use a small flat head and spin it to the correct angle to install , no need to take it all apart again .. that’s what I did and it worked flawless
Awesome bro, thanks for sharing this information. Given the successful number of viewings this DIY gets I'm sure your information is going to help someone out at some point
For sure man ..Also .. I’m probably going to make a video on this because I haven’t seen one .. if your getting c28/29 code and you fix this and still get a c29 code and hear your throttle body clicking when you turn on ignition .. your secondary butterfly’s are over extended and stuck . U can fix this near your throttle cable on the left side .. U have to move the butterfly’s where they can operate free
@@philramsey00
do you have c29 error correction video?
ruclips.net/user/shortsvDTQFITligc
@@philramsey00 please help me! This is exactly my problem. I’ve taken this on and off and adjusted with a screw driver again and again. It seems like no matter what when I turn on the bike with the key, my butterflies bottom out and chatter. When I give it gave, they don’t seem to open and the bike can’t rev up. Please help me understand how to properly get this back installed. I know this is an older threat but I’m counting on you man!!
So I don't usually leave any comments on RUclips but this one deserved it. Awesome video and a great fix. I have an 04' GSXR this happened to and I was able to do almost all the work myself. Took the actual STVA to a computer shop to do the soldering so I knew it would be solid. Thanks for the video, saved me a ton of money not taking it to a shop!!
Hey Mathew, thanks for stopping in and staying so. Glad I was able to get you going again.
Hopefully you'll subscribe and stick around for a bit.. I have a rebuild coming soon that's going to cover a lot more things..
A very big THANK YOU James.
I was at a track day in the weekend and the very same thing happened to my bike. It went into 'Limp-Home-Mode'. At least I was able to ride it back to the pits.
I got home, researched the Internet, found your video, pulled my bike apart, fixed the lose wires in the printed circuit and re-built it. The warning light is out and no codes are present now. The bike idles well and engine is back to full power!!!
Very grateful to you. Many thanks. Blessings.
Awsome, glad to hear it!. Thanks for the post. Its greatly appreciated.
Bad ass tutorial dude. I have mine torn apart. Nothing looks burnt or broken but I’m going to resolder it anyways and see if that takes care of it.
If you got the C28 code bro this is usually the problem..
I've just bought my motorcycle and it came with the FI message.. I was trying to find some helpful video that could help me to do the proper repair and now that I've seen this it will be a lot easier... Thank you
Noel Lopez Glad I could help Noel, its a pretty simple fix. Let me know if you need help.
james moreno can't start my 06 gsxr 6 wrecked it ignition fried diode goes were
Hi Linda, Sorry i'm not understanding what your asking of me, from my understanding you have a 2006 GSXR/600 that you wrecked and ended up frying the ignition. Whats confusing me is the diode question.. please clarify
so my STVa checks out, i'm the dude with the 07 GSX-R750 that was talking to you on Reddit, I got banned lol. Now its time to check the harness and im hoping its not the ECU because they are super expensive and idk what else that means. Got someone to help me but I told him to start with the fuel pump.
This video was exactly what i needed to fix my 2004 gsxr 600. Thanks for the video.
Awesome brother, glad to help you out. Thanks for sharing your success story, it gives other people faith that they can do the same with these simple instructions.
Dude, thank you very much!
Make sure you take a look at this video before you button it up.
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.htmlsi=4jZ5yWAg3u35mq-a
Mr. Moreno , I just have to tell you THANK YOU. I searched many forums and videos for this issue. Your Crystal clear video and excellent commentating were spot on. I was quite pleased to complete this repair and see the F1 light disappear. My machine is smooth and runs the way it should now. Cheers
that's great! I'm glad my tutorial could help you out. thanks so much for the props, it's greatly appreciated.
thank you very much to have took time to make these two videos on secondary butterfly. Very informative it's helps me a lot to treat the problem on my gsxr 750 2005
This is my exact problem I have a 05 gsxr 600 I turn my bike on turn on the kill switch and my butterfly’s struggle to open u might just solved my problem with this 1 💪🏾💯💯💯
Here's how you test it..
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
I have the same issue, the bike idles weird and it has been bogging down when I pull the throttle hard, I cleaned the gas tank and replaced some things, but the issue was still happening, my bike pulled the c28 and c29 codes. I’m going to try this fix and hopefully it works.
Make sure you check this one out first..
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Bro.... You are the man. Thank you for this video!!!
Tim Alcorn. Thanks bro, hope it help you fix you STVA issue.
You just gave me confidence on fixing my bike now
James, the circuit board went bad on mine. No resistance. I ended up running solder wire externally. Runs better not using motherboard. I have 7.8ohms resistance at each pair of connectors.
Bro, You saved me 400$ with this video.. thanks.
Crypto Guru awesome bro, glad i could help ya out. If you havent done so already be sure to subscribe and like, helps me out with the channel. There are a shit ton more DIYs and fixes here that may benefit you in the future.
James, much appreciated! You`ve just helped some bloke in Doncaster ( UK) out massively !!
awsome, glad i could help you out..
THIS GUY KNOWS HIS STUFF!!! Massive shout out, FIXED LIKE COMMENT AND SUBSCRIBED
Glad I can help you out brother. If this happens to you a second time or even if you just want to get in there now, check out this video on how to permanently fix this issue.
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Dude....if I had your number, I would have personally called you to thank you for this....as this video have solved my C28 issue. Brilliant video, and clear instructions! I litterally cannot than you enough!!!!! LEGEND!!!!! Greetings from South Africa
Goodday bro, I'm having the same problem on my gsxr 06 750cc, how did the bike present before u knew it was the stva? I'm from south Africa too....free state
I got the c29 code....
Great video james moreno, much appreciated.........we need more of these thorough step by step videos.......Awesome!
Much appreciated chuck! Thanks
Yo you are the man !!! I had this issue with my gsxr and had no idea were to even begin.
Dylan Kramer glad i could help, don't forget to subscribe and click that bell, I have loads of videos that may help you in the future when it comes to repair. If your still experiencing the c28 code hit me back and I'll help walk u through some other troubleshooting tips that may fix this issue.
This is 100% helpful bro thank u my buddy has this issue with his bike I'm about to go and see if I can fix the issue
Awesome brother, glad I could help ya out.. before you do, take a look at this video for the permanent fix. If you're going to go in there, you're going to want to make sure you never have to revisit this issue again.
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Veo los comentarios con traductor y me doy cuenta que muchas felicitaciones y agradecidos por tu video, ojalá me puedas entender ya que necesito sacarme una duda, si el Mikuni o servomotor lo desconecto y les quito las mariposas secundarias también, independiente que salga falla en el tablero,el motor presentaría alguna falta de potencia al momento de andar?. Gracias y saludos desde Chile!!🇨🇱 🖐️
What's going on brother, yes the ECU will recognize that it's not receiving the signal and put the bike in limp mode. It will not go past a certain speed or RPM during your ride. If you want to disconnect this unit you need to buy a device I believe sold by snitch racing that will let you bypass the STVA.
@@TheChemistDIY muchas gracias por la ayuda amigo. Saludos a la distancia!!
Dude thank you so much for the very clear details and pictures.
I messed mine up and fought it before deciding to take it apart and I put the gear in wrong then like you said do it again and put it the other way and bam working perfect and no c28 code!
You saved the day man.
Just didn’t this on my 600. Problem solve. Thanks man
Awesome brother, glade I could help ya out. Be sure to check out the updated version where I show you how to permanently fix this issue.
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
I went a different route just because I didn't want the problem repeating itself again at some point, I soldered wires from the plug terminal bypassing the board, and it worked like a charm, then the F1 light stayed on -C00 so I did an oil change and adjusted the tps and voilá light is gone and the idle is beautiful, now if I can find a valve adjustment tutorial and I'll be set
I'm going to try this tonight..... Great video bro
Keep me posted
Did save my arse twice. Thanks a lot
Awesome brother, glad my videos are helping you out.. thanks for stopping in and letting me know.
Suzuki wont let me buy this without the whole throttlebody...
Thanks for the video
Correct, thats why everyone choses to fix or buy a used working one from ebay. Its funny cuz you buy a whole throttle body assembly with the STVA off ebay for about $150, the price it should cost just for the STVA part.. if they sold separately.
Bruh, thank you, you saved my day n my bike. Thanks a lot
Thx mate, finally found a video about this c28 error and a good one two! Really apreciate the effort! Very clean and straight to the subject! Cheers and stay safe!
Great! Glad I can help you out If you do get in there be sure to check out this video and permanently fix this issue
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Preciate this bro ima give it a shot got a C28 today
Make sure to check out the C28 permanent fix video to this. If your going in.. Make sure this will be the last time..
If I could thumb up this twice I would. Very well made vid as well as great info. Thanks for being so detailed. Especially in the Alignment of the parts-before and after. Great video quality as well. Very informative and well done. Thanks for saving me a bundle. Cheers
Wallace Niebel , thanks for comments, It's greatly appreciated. I'm glad I was able to help you out.
Thank you so much for make the perfect video!!!
Glad you found what you were looking for. Be sure to check out the updated version to permanently fix..
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
About to try this when I get home from work
Awesome, let me know how it goes. It's a pretty simple fix
God i appreciate your thoroughness
Haha thanks. I get both ends of the spectrum.. Some say I talk to much to get to the point.. lol.
If your looking at this video then you probably have the C28 code showing.. if so then you need to see this video if you don't want to do this again..
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
@@TheChemistDIY lol I understand, we are not typically a patient group of people 😆 you just sound like someone with some technical/engineering knowledge outside of bikes.
I’m an electrician and thus think I can work on my little motorcycle (lol the hubris), I’ve done quite a bit of maintenance and repairs myself, but I know when to pay a professional.
Btw I ride a 2003 gsxr 750:
I do not have a c28 code, but what I do have is a loud chattering sound (electronic sound) coming from the valves after riding and warming up the engine, this happens before turning over engine, while electronics are ON (STVA opens in anticipation of start and engine warm up).
On cold start, no issues, this only happens after I’ve ridden enough to get engine temps up.
I haven’t taken time to get airbox open to see what they’re doing or do a continuity test, I’ll take a look soon!
@@lowoctane your assumption is correct. Father was an electrician, went to trade school myself for Micro computer repair.. fiddled around with telecommunication radio frequencies, PLC and logic control programming.. found out it wasn't for me, I seriously dislike formulas, oscilloscopes and sign wave technology.. but damn if its not handy when you need it..lol. Went bck to school again and got a bachelor's in IT (information system) and currently working on a few cyber security certifications on the ethical side of course.. Anywho..
The electronic sound on your K3.. does it raise up and down (sound of failing component) and have a clicking noise.. if so then your area of concern is the STVA..
My cousin has a K3 and as soon as you switch the key to the accessory position the bike primes and you hear this pretty loud electronic squeal from the STVA as it struggles to move the secondary flys to the correct position during its self check. This happens every time for him (cold or hot) but since the bike runs perfectly normal and no errors on the clock he's just learned to live with it.. BUGS THE CRAP OUT ME THO!.. lol.
Id rip that mother chucker out and crack her open to see what the hell is going on but as you know parts for these year bikes are becoming scarce and he doesn't want to risk messing it up..
If it were me, I'd remove the STVA from the stack but leave plugged in, open the secondary coins up and start the bike. With the StVA in hand see if that sounds goes away.. if it does then you know it's your STVA struggling to move the Flys.. Replacement STVA are super hard to get a hold of and quite expensive when you do find one..
If not this then other things that make chattering sounds (minis electronic sound) would be your chain tensioner and guide.. or valves need adjustment (bucket and shims). This is more of a ticking or clacking sound depending on how bad there worn out. This one you can use the old long screwdriver to the ear and block trick to diagnose.
Well I've talked your ear off enough, sounds like got some diagnosing to do, hopefully one of these points you in the right direction.
You just saved my bike, Respect :D
Thank you for such detail! I have a code 28 that I have to deal with
You welcome, thanks for dropping in and commenting . no worries brother, it's a simple repair as you can see. Have all your parts ready on the day off and you will have your bike fixed and running in an hour. Be sure to come back and post your experiences to let other first timers know if this video got you through it.
Good luck!
James moreno** you save my life lol not really you save my bikes life. Thanks bro
Hi James. I have a 2005GSXR1000. I have spent lots of money on my bike, too much money, $1700 in the last year at the local moto-shop. I'm broke, I don't want to sell my bike. I'm very sad today because while riding my bike it started loosing power. It would sometimes ride fine (when not trying to go fast) but when I'd try to hit it hard, it would hesitate or bog some what. Now, I noticed that when I hit the run switch while the key is on, it will make a clicking sound just as the fuel pump starts priming. The sound is like three quick clicks. Sounds likes an electrical clicking sound coming from the right side of the engine. I think its the STVA, but there is NO code at the dash. Tomorrow morning I'm going to see what I can do, but to tell you the truth I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to electrical problems. It would be so AWESOME if you could give me your opinion on this matter. Should I try something, or should I give up and just sell my bike.
Sorry for the late response, I don't know of you have already fixed this issue but it sounds like the S TVA
Hi James. I'm so glad to see a reply from you, thanks. I did replace the stva with a used unit from ebay. It got better, but it wasn't running perfect. I then bought a used fuel pump unit from ebay, runs great now. Last knight I almost lost my life on my bike. I almost rear ended a car at about 150mph, I was tucking down for better aerodynamics, my helmets forehead blocked my view of objects far away. I came up on that car so fast, I was almost hitting top speed when the car lights came into view. There was no way I could slow down in time so I went left, I passed inches from that car. I love motorcycles, but now I'm lost at what to do. Please use your head, is what I would say to motorcycle owners. Thanks for the reply James.
Thanks a lot this saved me today !
Be sure to check out the 3rd video.. permanently fix the C28 code..
Bro just saved my clients bike
Awesome, glade I could help you out. Consider sending the channel a Thanks, help out the channel out greatly.. oh and you may want to look at this video to complete the process..
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Great video. Will this fix also work on a k6 Gsx1400? Mine is showing the c28 fault code.
Bravo..... very clear and concise
thanks very much for posting this, I have a 2001but I think the steps will be the same.
Bill M, Give it a try! you cant break whats already broken has always been my mentality. be sure to come back and post if this fix worked for you so we have log of different applications it works on. Good luck!
james moreno unfortunately there is a different unit on the '01 and it uses a more complicated system of cables which run to a small box which contains the servo motor. This box hangs roughly 6" down. However, I did briefly get my secondary valves working when I gave a little twist to the assembly itself (where the cables attach to the shaft holding the butterflies) and the valves moved a small amount. I cycled the ignition and the butterflies worked properly. Dropped the tank, took a run around the neighborhood with no FI light! Thought... awesome! Sadly, it didn't last. After stopping and restarting the light was back on. So more work to be done, but thanks again for the video. It's all helpful.
I just finished this and the F.I. light is gone. Thanks for the video. Getting the throttle shaft, gear mechanism and TPS to line up was a PITA. I must of got it wrong 4 times before I got it right.
Glad I was able to help you out. First time always is a B***h but now you know how to fix it.. Good/Bad news is, if you didn't see my video on how to permanently fix this issue you'll have a second chance at it..lol
@@TheChemistDIY I did see it but didn't have the wire to complete the permanent fix. Also I wanted it running for today so I could ride to work. And since I do things more half-assed than you I didn't replace the rivets. So I could have it back off and apart in 5 minutes or less 😁
Ahh, then your golden bro. You did your homework as I see it. Yeah I never rivet mine back together either, nuts & bolts is the way to go since this part will undoubtedly give you issues if not permanently fixed.. even now after that permanent fix I still refrain from permanently closing.. you just never know with this part.. lol.
I was planning on making a video to show how to convert this into a pigtail, like the newer models but the damn permanent fix worked out so good that I don't think I'll ever get that chance unless I'm doing it for a friend's bike.
@@TheChemistDIY apparently my solder skills suck. Only made it halfway to work before the light was back 🤦♂️. I'll be doing the permanent fix some time this week.👍
@@TurboNeon185 yeah, it's a lot easier to solder the wire to the two points then it is to solder the pin to the small round trace on the circuit board.. plus when your soldering the PCB traces your more likely to cook them off the board and b like.. where did it go..lol.
I have no doubt youll get this right the 2nd time around..
Good stuff bro. Real help. Big Props
Very nice video thanks, I think I am naving the same issue on GIX750 k8. you were concerning about the position of the V shaped mechanism but I am concerned about the position of the gearing of the motor. I mean what if I accidentally rotate the gearing of the motor? does its position is relevant or not? so do I just have to pay attention to the position of the V shaped mechanism or even at the position of the motor gearing? thanks
The gear on the stepper motor does not matter..move it all you want.. it has one job and that's to move forward n backward in micro increments.. aka steps
What keeps track of movement or positioning is the TPS and why it's important you place the V shape cog in the correct orientation upon assembly as this is connected directly to the TPS.
See this video before you perform this DIY so you have a complete understanding and how to permanently fix this issue
ruclips.net/video/Hp7boEcUV9U/видео.html
Thanks for this great old video. I have removed the STVA on my K4 followed your steps. But my solder points looking like brand new, I measured them, seems no problems whatsoever. Do I need to renew them anyway? I have another suspicion, the preowner installed LED turn lights, looks like they are eventually wired around the ECU, could that eventually cause C-28?
@@REDFOGSX I would Shirley hope no one would tie into the harness at the ECM.. any who take a look at this video.
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
@@TheChemistDIY Ah thank you, okay I put the STVA back into the bike already. I have to take it out again, lol. Online they said C-28 could also be a problem by the ECU though. But the other video makes sense, because I'm start driving and everything is okay, suddenly C-28 or F1 appears in the display. It can disappear again. I think the chance of it to pop up more likely when the bike is warm. I have the STVA with the cables coming out btw.
I think I'm having a problem with mine. When I switch the key on it'll make a twitching sound longer than normal but only sometimes. Bike runs good and I don't have any codes
Asking here, Why is it woolich shall i say recommended to remove or disable this valve is it necesarrily to do so or it is necessary to do it so that no future error will occur? And is it advisable to remove and disable it through flash just to prevent any codes? Thanks buddy and ride safe aswell...
Not sure who is recommending this mod but I would advise against it. Where most of this misleading information comes from is the fact that the part cannot be bought and only comes as part of the purchase of a entire throttlebody Assembly costing around $1400-$1800 USD.
The only other way is to purchase one from a person on eBay who will price gouge you for a refurbished/repaired STVA knowing how hard it is to get them. Typically in the range of $200-$400 USD.
So with that said, can you remove or delete the STVA and Secondary butterflies? Yes you can but also what cost? .. low end power is the answer.
In order to understand why it's not recommended you have to understand it's functioning. The rider controls the primary butterflies (gold color) through the throttle cable.. the Secondary flies are controlled by the ECU or bikes computer. Within the computer programming you have the MAP, basically a programed value database that Suzuki wrote for optimal/peak performance and the ECU/MAP moves the secondary flies to the correct position for optimal airflow.
This is very important for daily driving as it saves on fuel through air to fuel mixturing. This secondary flies also helps with cold start as it brings the bike to operating temperature faster, without this the bike is hard to start in the mornings.
The trade off. If you as a daily driver remove the the secondary flies and STVA you lose all that was mentioned above AND low end power. Low end power is important on take off. Meaning your bike will now take longer to get up to speed. Ever get in a cheap low end car and romp on the gas and the car takes forever to get up to speed.. well that will be your bike after removing the STVA and flies.
So why do people perform this mod. Well, While you loose low end.. you also gain high end speed because there is nothing governing the air flow now. So at highway speeds you may see an increase. That can only be proven with a dyno test which no one has done that I have seen. You will also need a tune to account for the new/increased airflow.
The STVA cannot simply be removed though. Removing the part good or bad will cause a C28 code and put the bike in limp mode. Limp mode reduces the bike performance severely just to get you home to fix the issue (I have a video on how to repair a bad STVA)
Online you can find what is known and called as the STVE eliminator. This basically mimics the STVA signal to the ECU, tricking it into thinking it's still present and or functioning. Only problem is that now you have no way to control the butterflies. secondary Butterfly movement is controlled by the STVA and Secondary TPS or STPS. So to bypass that issue you simply remove the top or Silver plates (flies).
Again this mod is meant for someone riding track (quarter mile) and not the daily driver or even weekend rider.
A track rider is going to accommodate the removal of the STVA and take off lag (loss of lower end) with nitrous and other performance mods... And we'll, the daily driver will think he's cool and has a few extra ponies now that he's read a few forums, performed the mode and believes the hype that he just increased his horsepower, but yet is losing at light to light...lol
I hope that explains it for everyone.
@@TheChemistDIY Thanks man and thats alot word there
✌️😁 and ride safe
Hey mate great video. I have a small problem with the way in which you install the STVA back to the throttle body. I can’t get mine to align to the rod. Hope u are still here
Riki Fowell, sure am brother. With your fingers either push down or pull up on the butterflies within the throttle body. Moving the butterflies will thus orient the rod that STVA slides into. Do this the same time you are trying to apply the STVA and it should slide into place. Hope that help!
Nice vid bro, very helpful!
hey man thanks to you it saved me a ton that was exactly my problem
Alex Taylor awsome brother, glad i could help. Dont forget to subscribe and hit the bell button for future updates and videos.
Muchas gracias ! Me funciono!
Great video bro
Thanks brother, if your researching how to fix this issue be sure to check out this one out to before doing this repair..
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
you got a new subscriber
Many thanks
Thanks man, worked perfectly
Awesome bro, glad it worked for you.. if you want to make this a permanent fix take a look this video.
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Aye man I have a 2005 Gsxr 750 and it’s jerking sometimes when I go to go fast it doesn’t loose gear or anything just then sometimes I’ll shift and it’ll be fine any thought
Thanks man for your help! ;)
Gracias desde mexico funciono muy bn gracias bro ¡¡¡¡¡
Great video!! Thanks man!
Dear James,
I recently subscribed to yr channel and find your videos extremely helpful. I own a Suzuki boulevard M50 which also employs STVA. Can you pls advise if this component on the throttle body is also responsible for controlling the idle speed since the throttle body on the boulevard does not seem to hv a separate idle speed control valve like most cars or some bikes also hv. I ask because someone I know is having erratic idle speed issues. Already told him to check the TPS, STVA and vaccum lines. Many thanks.
RS - thanks for joining the channel brother, any time I can lend a hand I'm here to help.
Get down on your hands knees on the left side of the bike. Look up under the tank between the two cylinders. You will see a large screw with ridges to grab it with your fingers, or a slot to put a screwdriver on it. This is the idle stop screw. Twisting it in raise the idle, twisting it out lowers the idle. I believe idle speed for the M50 should be around 11k-12k rpms if I'm not mistaken, but then again I tend to run my idle higher despite what the good book suggests.
Also when was the last time you changed out the spark plugs. If you can't remember then it's probably time but nonetheless pulling them to take a read to see how the engine is running is always good.. (rich or lean conditions).
Last but not least check for vacuum leaks using the old WD-40 or Carberator cleaner trick. Spray this stuff on or near hoses and engine case splittings and listen for a change in idle speed as it get sucked into the engine. if it does change then you know you are close to finding that leak.
Hope that helps
I am having this problem now with my 2008 burgman 400 secondary throttle position C28
After your done reviewing this video, check out this one.. this will show you how to permanently fix.
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Thank you James
Any time brother. If you like this video or in are need of this repair be sure to check out the updated version below for the permanent fix to this issue.
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
He didn't show where the actual failure is, its under the motor plate. The pcb lead brakes from the board flexing, typically NOT the exposed solder that he put on there. The fix is to solder a wire from the back of the pcb to the front of the pcb effectively eliminating the trace so the board flex cant brake the leads anymore.
Slow your roll brother.. here you go. ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Excellent video, dude.. Had the FI light come on last month, bike won’t rev above 8k...seems to run relatively normal below that. Dealer finally got back to me, and here’s what they had to say:
THE PART # FOR THE THROTTLE BODY IS 13405-29G00. YOUR COST ON THAT WOULD BE 931+TAX.
THE PART THAT IS BAD IS THE CONTROL ASSEMBLY BOX ON THE END OF IT. IF YOU WERE TO FIND SOMETHING USED IT WOULD NEED TO HAVE THAT.
Does this sound legit? I wasn’t expecting such a high quote, and now have to decide to either fix or junk the bike as I’m sick of sticking money into it.
Thoughts? Would be very grateful if the STVA fix saved me a grand..
Well unfortunately from the dealership the STVA is never sold alone, they want you to buy the entire throttle body assembly which comes with the STVA, this is the reason why everyone opts to fix it. If youre lucky you may find one on ebay but its pretty rear to find the 04-05 models STVA. To tell you the truth its a very easy fix as you can see below from all the success stories from those who viewed my video and attempted to do it themselves.
You have to look at it this way. The bike doesnt work as it should with the STVA malfunctioning now so what do you have to lose buy cracking it open and taking a wack at it, you cant break whats already broken. Its about a 2 beer job and 45 minutes of garage time getting to know the inner workings of your favorite girl. So grab a soldering iron, some solder and a drill bit and get to work brother. Once you lick this one youll become fearless tackling any other challenge she throws at you in the future.
james moreno Thanks for the detailed reply, brother! Turns out this was the issue...and it only took me about an hour to resolve. What you described about the dealer quote makes total sense now as well. Your video was a big help, dude, so thank you! Subbed!
@@seejayb awesome brother, glad i could help you out. With the exceptions of the carb models, GIXXRs are pretty much the same with minor changes throughout the years so much of what you find on my channel will apply. The Stealership will always rape you , there a business, and they have to survive. If your new to working on your own bike i suggest you invest in manual and some decent tools and get to learning and thought of taking your bike back to the dealership for any repairs will be a thing of the past.
ممتاز شكراً
Thanks man!
Hi James, good video.
After washing my 2004 GSXR 600 I had a C28 and C29. I did the soldering and now I only have a C29 error left. What could be the problem?
Your help would be much appreciated.
Ok, so you've alleviated the C28 code which was the STVA (usually broken solder joints). The C29 code if I'm not mistaken is the STPS attached to the STVA. Check to make sure the it is properly connected, inspect the wiring to make sure none are broken or wire shielding is melted exposing the internal wire causing it to ground out. Also, remove the connector from the STPS and make sure pins within are good and in place. You may also want to spray some contact cleaner in both. Let me know if that works for you.
Alright so this all worked almost perfect the first 3 gears are good but i feel like 4th and 5th gear dont have the full power like before and wnt rev really high, is this because i need to re adjust the throttle or should i try to resolder it or what do you think? I felt like when i changed into higher gears it would rev all the way high for a second an then wouldnt go past 11rpm. I got it to 140 mph but not 160mph like i normally can. Its like theres not alot of power in the higher gears
It all should work as normal. Take a look at this video for testing and a permanent fix for this issue
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Also put the bike in dealer mode and see if your TPS is still center line..
I got the same code and my bike will run for 1 second is it the same thing that needs fixed ?
Never heard of this killing the bikes run time but none the less the code is being displayed so try looking at this first.. the like below will show you how to test and permanently fix so you don't have to deal with it anymore
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Aquela espuma que tem ao lado do filtro, da mangueira que vem do suspiro do motor. pode andar sem ela?
I think your talking about the crankcase breather. This is the tube that runs from the air filter box to the engine case.
What do you want to know about this. Google didn't translate your message to well..
@@TheChemistDIY there is a foam in it, can you remove it and leave it without
@@airtontezolim4802 so this foam acts as an oil catch and release. The foam collector keeps oil from getting all over the inside your air filter and box.
Once the foam gets saturated, the oil returns back down the tube and into the crack case. It should be replaced.
Over time this foam will deteriorate, mines did. To replace the foam I used a closed cell, high density, fire retardant packing foam that I got from a Amazon delivery one day. You can get that here.
amzn.to/3ZGr0rh
Some chose to just plug the hole and remove the line all together and just add a small filter to the Crank case.
amzn.to/3X4IMmt
Either way you do it, there needs to be air introduction into the case.
Hope that helps
It fixed my bike too, i sended you money on paypal. Hopes it'll help you
Yan n, your awesome brother! Thanks so much for your contribution to the channel. Im glad my content could help you out.
What 4 wires go where their is the green white pink and black...what goes where for what u where working on
You may find what u need here.. pause the video to take a look at the manual and write down the A, B, C, D pin locations on the STVA .. then listen to where I have placed the jumper.. you can also see in the manual shots the wire colors.. there are other videos in my arsenal that deal with the STVA, STP and TPS that may show a clearer shot or the wires... hope that helps..
ruclips.net/video/18KR_RV0tVQ/видео.html
Hello James,
I was wondering what the outcome would be like if the butterflies were installed incorrectly? would it restrict air flow?
hellow Leo, i need more spacifics. What do you mean by installed incorrectly, are you speaking physically as in the butterflies have been installed upside down or are we talking about miss alignment to where the butterflies are not in the correct position. You have to remember that airflow plays a synchronized game with gas, if your butterflies are out of sync your either getting to much or to little air and you could experience symptoms such as hard to start, flooding or bogging or misfiring.. i guess the question i should be asking is.. what are you symptoms and why do you belive they have been installed incorrectly
+james moreno sorry for the vauge question! the video of 10:15
Our gsxr has an error on stva..we already check the coupler resistance it's shows 7.3 ..can you help us how to fix if the reading is higher than the approximate limit?
What's Marlon, sure no problem, first perform the test in this video on your board to see if the issue has to do with broken solder connections. Most if not all C28 STVA code Issue has to do with the prong connection coming loose from the board. Link below
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Also, Just an FYI, though I haven't officially released it yet because I'm still updating, I have created a website where you can now easily retrieve all my tutorials for the GSXR..(link below) plenty of good stuff so lock it in.
www.thechemistdiy.com/search/label/Maintenance?m=1
Let me know if that was your issue.
Would this be the same process if the solder is just corroded? As far as should I re solder the contacts?
Daniel Roberts, i would resolder to ensure good connectivity. A few extra minutes of your time is well worth it and also gives piece of mind. At least youll know that if it doesnt solve your issue that the problem couldnt be bad solder joints.
james moreno awesome I'm gonna see if that fixes my issue. Great video man
Hey are u sure 7 ohms is bad????
I’m just having trouble trying to remove it from the case I know I can’t tug on the gear shaft
Yeah, its wedged in the case pretty tightly.. shoot some WD-40 along the edges and use a pick tool along the seems to slowly rock it out.. should come free that way..
🙏
I have an 06gsxr 750 and I cant access the tps because the frame is in the way. And in ur vid it seems like your throttle bodies is raised. Is it because of the different years and models?
Could possibly be a little different then urs do to the difference in years, i e never seen the 06. One good tool for tight quarters is a closed end ratchet that holds a Phillips head. This tool resembles an 8mm box end wrench and in fact you can probably use just that to hold the required torques bit head.
What's up bro. Hope all is well. I have the same exact problem, but what happened is I live on a hill, it rained pretty heavy last week, and the water filled the bottom part of my bike cover and the weight of the water took my bike out. So basically my bike was sitting in water for a few minutes until I picked it up. Yesterday I rode to work, and noticed the c28 code. I took the stva off and shook it and water came out of it. It's the same one in your video. But my bike is a 2016 gsxs1000. Should I open it as you did and check the parts inside, to see if the water messed it up? Im gonna check the butterflies too, but if they're not functioning properly, could it be the stva or you think it might be a different problem?
Man, this is going to be a tough one bro, a bike uder water is definitely no bueno.. well no sense worrying about it.. let's get to work.
Crack it open and dry it out but before you do pour some 90% rubbing alchohol on the internal board and wiring and clean with Qtip.. it all should evaporate and leave no chance of corrosion. if does not fully dry, hit with a blow dry... since you have open might as well hit those solder welds again.. at least you know after assembly theres nothing further that needs to be done here and you can move on to the next part with piece of mind.
@@TheChemistDIY your are the fucking man bro.. 💪🏼🙏🏼🙌🏼💯 thanks a million! I'll let you know how it goes!
my bike keeps misfiring after using 600 ecu on a 750 engine what changes do i need oto make again ?
You did what?!?!... Brother you may have just ended your engines life... Your talking about two entirely different engine ratios.. depending on how long you ran with the 600 ECU the timing difference alone should have killed you valves..
But with that said I don't have enough information as to what your have done and why you put a 600 ECU in in the first place...
@@TheChemistDIY my bike is a gsr 600 but the engine broke down so i bought a 750 engine to replace it and it sparks fine just that alot of misfre and backfire
Did the c28 cause your bike to over heat? Mine is over heating
Your Issue is most likely going to be this.. Unless your water pump has gone out.. I would first start with the less expensive option which is this. Other thing I would look at is the thermal switch on the RAD or you fan.
ruclips.net/video/qxVVUNRXFw8/видео.html
@@TheChemistDIY yea i just replaced the fuses for the fan and everything bc i thought it was the fun but it still was overheating. So I’ll make sure i check tht out
@@TheChemistDIY also have one more question could i just buy a whole new one and put it on there would that fix it?
If your speaking of the STVA (C28 Code) then that would be costly as most usually don't sell this alone. Most sell this part and the throttle body assembly together. It's not that hard of a fix and if you don't want to visit this again then have a look at this video.
ruclips.net/video/gR5pcdiwZ98/видео.html
Amazing video. I sent mine out yesterday to MyAirbags.com in Georgia but now i know exactly what to look for. Thank you and super helpful. Respect and stay safe cheers
Hi I have a cold start issue / no error codes TPS is in the correct position but I have the dynojet jet power commander would the power commander affect the cold start it’s fine once it’s warm I watch your install bid and saw that you tapped into the stva / stps any info would be ace bro
I'm assuming that you have an 04-05 750 with the preceding information. The PCIII shouldn't affect your cold start and the T-tap wasn't connected to the STVA, it's connected to the TPS so that the PCIII knows how much throttle is being applied.
Try raising your engine idle to 1300-1400 rpms. The service manual and dealerships have this normally set to 1200 rpms but I have found that this doesn't work for my bike and gives me a hard time during warm up. I bumped mine up to 1350 rmps and that seems to be the sweet spot.. no more cold start issues.
If you need to find my DIY video information fast, including how to adjust your idle, cruz on over to my website and find all my videos on wrenching on your bike under the motorcycle tab, link below. Let me know if the above info worked for you.
www.thechemistdiy.com
Thanks mate yes k4 once warm it idles nice a 1400 but when cold it drops to maybe 800 and then dies I have no error codes and my TPS is -c so inntje sweet spot. It runs mint when warm just he cold start up itbdisn t bother me if have to give it a few revs on start up no issues aslong as it’s not causing damage to my bike
Just remove the butterflies. Doesn’t hurt anything. Just a little more low end torque
Hey Triston.. just an fyi removing the secondary butterflies has nothing to do with the C28 code Because the ECM will still see an undervalued reading from the STVA as non operational or incorrect value thus putting you in limp home mode. Only when the ECM sees the correct value from the STVA can you remove the secondary butterflies... make sense?
james moreno Fixed my code 🤷🏾♂️
@@BabyTJ92 That's awesome news brother, it's always a great feeling to know that you are fully capable of working on your own bike no matter what the issue. There's never no shame in asking for guidance but always make sure you make an attempt to try and fix just for your knowledge..remember that you Can't break what's already broken, you can only move up from there. Glad to hear your up and running..
I have a c28 code on Burgman 400. Is the procedure the same as for GsxR?
apparently it is.. give my tutorial a try and let me know if it works for u. heres a quick google search that leads me to believe it is..good luck
burgmanusa.com/forums/52-burgman
Great. Is it possible to unmount/unassemble only STVA, so you can fix it? Thanks. ;)
I think i saw what you did there @12:55🤔
Once you're in there it all becomes perfectly clear..
Where you at located. I need this done on my bike
San Bernardino county, California
friend if I need to install the STPS should the butterflies be closed? can you help me as I calibrate the STPS
Closed..