Thank you for this well presented and explained video, I had the dreaded C28 code and repaired the STVA in line with the permanent fix , Butterflies are back to normal operation - you saved me a lot of cash considering suzuki will only sell you the entire rail
bro thank you so much! i sat here and performed this step by step and it looks good. the welds or solders dont seperate from the board no more so i assume i got it. i put it back together carefully and made sure everything was lined up and i will throw it back on my bike tomorrow. my 750 looks exactly like yours same color fairings and everything. Have you ever thought about maybe making your own pig tail? im sure there is a blank plug that is just like this one and a pigtail could be made somehow as a perm fix too. I will report back tomorrow if this fixes my problem. my only concern tho is my butter flys are stuck in the open position so i hope i can get it back on with no issues. If not then idk. i guess ill send my STVA to you, thanks again for the great video
Zimbabwe..wow!.. till this day It still amazes me how far were able to reach people through RUclips. Thanks for the comments Marshall, greatly appreciated. Be sure to subscribe and lock in the channel. I have over 108 diy videos to get your bike up and running and many of them can be applied to any sport bike to get you out of a pinch.. see you next problem
What is your e-mail brother? I heard you are in the IE area in socal. Im local so you wont run the risk of liability via shipping. I understand you support and encourage others to fix their own breakdowns instead of taking it to get it repaired. I’ve recently gotten a K7 GSXR 600 and have been putting in a good amount of work already. I did my own Sprockets, chains, fuel pump repair, gas tank cap swap, rectifier relocation, etc.. And I learned all of it through youtube. But I put my trust into someone that has superior electrical/mechanical knowledge than I do. I do appreciate the free content and knowledge you are spreading and I do understand the concepts. It’s just buying the necessary tools for the repair will cost me around the same as just getting it repaired. And again, I don’t want to run the risk of a bad repair if I can just have someone with superior knowledge and skills execute a good repair. Besides, it’s money going in your wallet. Think about it brother. Thanks for your time!
I did exactly what you did in your test.except visually i cld see the solder from the original weld come apart on movement.what i did was solder it back together but just over the connecter i put in some rubber which causes it to be super snug in the stva when everything is mounted up.but i will be sure to do ur method down the line great vid man.love this year gsxr especially seeing as it makes the same power as the year model after it
Ya, my first go around with this issue I had the same. You could see the solder weld lift from the PCB PAD and it was a little chard around it. This is actually my 3rd time in here and thought to myself there's got to be a better way.. I'm tired of fixing this damn thing..lol. That's when it hit me.. We share the same passion, I love this year as well.. me and Luce (AKA Lucy Liu) till the wheels fall off.. haha. Thanks for comment
it would have been nice to have step to step reassembly of the stepper motor to be sure that the stepper motor position fits to the position of the butterfly. Some people made mistake and damaged the sensor while reassembly
Sorry to hear that brother.. I find this a bit Odd since I haven't seen anyone who's watched this 3 part series state anything about damaging their STPS in any of the comments.. So, Just a recap on the series: 1. Dealership Plug location & Mode 2. Removal/ Disassembly/Soldering & Proper reassembly of STVA 3. Permanent fix (solder in wires to the main contact points) You have to remember that these videos were made over the course of what, 7 year's, and after a few times of fixing and repairing finally arriving to this solution where I/you wouldn't have to do it EVER again. Part two is where you find the information you are describing (setting the cog gear in the STVA) which is posted in the cards that flash in the top right corner. Not sure how I could get anymore clearer then that bro. That video was super long. Maybe they just didn't see that video.
Glade you enjoyed and found beneficial. Be sure to lock in the channel by subscribing.. theres over 108 diy repairs, all that can be applied to most sport bikes..
Would copper tape not work? I have some laying around and need to fix this. Just replaced the stator and rectifier today. But I checked and I still have a c28 code. The wire method is probably a lot more stable and a safer bet to not have to do it all again.
I would stick to the soldering in of wires. It's more durable and less prone to come undone with the elements (heat,water..ECT). After this fix I've never had another problem with the STVA..
I need to know what wires go where inside the connector..their is a green white black and pink..what color goes where for the 4 pins in the connector to the stva
Hey Bro, first of all thanbks for your time, as you explain the problem is the vibration but if im not riding should the valves not work fine initially as soon as I start the motorbike, I took the stva for a fix a they told me that the problem is the soldering so they put a new soldering but not like yours, after this still not working, wanted to know if yours was working at least when you turn the motorbike on? thanks for your time your vid are helping so many riders.
I have an 04 GSXR 750 with a C28 code. I think this repair will fix my problems. I have watched other videos about this code and one person referred to someone that has fixed these. I’m assuming that person may be you considering you fixed the sensor in your video. My question is if I sent you my sensor would you repair it for me and send it back? Obviously for a fee. I appreciate your time, Pat
What's up dorian, im curious to know I've created two RUclips instructional videos on how to repair the STVA on your own, all which show comments of those who tried and were successful, do you not think you're capable? I typically don't do repairs for hire but there is a guy on ebay that does it for like $75.. just type in 2004 Suzuki GSXR 750 STVA in your ebay app.. honestly I think he's just saw my video I posted 5 years back and decided to sell the service.
A little update! I installed and boom! It worked! I flipped the cut off switch, the butterflies opened and when it warmed up they closed and no more code! I’m so happy! Thanks again man!
I have an (intermittent) problem. The engine turns on, but it gets brief gear clicking noises. Generate code 28 sometimes. Help me? gsxr k2. Congratulations for the video
So the older model Suzuki's STVAs are notorious for making all sorts of strange noise. The clicking noise your hearing is the Plastic gearing inside slipping.. this may be because the butterfly linkage is to stiff for the stepper motor to turn and needs lubricant (dry lube). the code may be thrown because of this but I would still check to see if the PCB connections are good if you get in there..
Was having this issue again , I’ve fixed this problem before but I did the permanent fix this go around. I tested it, all the numbers checked out so I installed it in the bike and the stva motor works and rotated, but now it seems as if the motor doesn’t have enough strength to rotate the butterfly valves so I’m at a loss. Maybe the motor itself is bad considering it’s 18 years old
Let's look at the more obvious B4 we claim a bad stepper and start swapping out parts. When was the last time you performed a throttle body cleaning and thoroughly cleaned and lubed them flies.. it maybe that there is to much friction and that's why the motor is struggling. My TB has 155,150 miles on it and has sat on top of two engines now.. all work just fine.. just saying.. That would be my first step.. breakdown and clean every inch of it..
Found the issue, wire connection in the ECM plug would giggle loose and prevent stva from running properly. Got it fixed for now, thanks man. Appreciate the video
Help pls, got a k7 gsxR600, i dnt have any fi or any code occuring on the dash but my stva flaps are twitching like crazy when my bike is in idle, but it stops and behave when i whack open the throttle above 6k rpm, and when it falls down 6k rpm the twitching will start again
Test the STVA as I have shown in the Video to see if you have a broken solder weld, solder pad, and or copper trace. Its extremely rare that the stepper motor goes bad and it usually boils down to the circuit board.
From what I've seen and others here have shown, the C28 Code spands across most if not all Suzuki models. If you're getting the code then most likely the solder weld is broken but not completely and the ECU is not getting the reading it should.. given enough time and vibration and it will break free giving you an issue.. doesn't hurt to go in and touch things up for piece of mind.
@@TheChemistDIY thanks for taking the time to give a prompt, much appreciated. I'll dive in a take a look, if I can't fix it I can always just buy a new one. Thanks again, ride safe 👍
@@NathanKarhu not sure what year you have but dont let that keep you from riding brother.. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F274037448057
Yeah, those copper clad traces don't hold up to well. I was even pondering to just eliminate the PCB board all together and run a pig tail like you see on the newer models and 1000s. I'm pretty sure with this fix I won't ever have to return to repairing this again but if I do I will for sure try converting the wire to a leash style setup and removing the board altogether. Time will tell...
depends, but no. The STVA just controls the secondary buttterflys. At most if this faults the bike is put in limp home mode. For a bike to crank but not fire up OR does fire up but wont stay on your looking at three things... "CONSISTANT " Fuel, Air, Spark. Question is whitch one are you missing. Drop some gas in each of the 4 stacks (not to much). Then fire her up.. If she turns over then you found your problem.. Fuel!
Hello, good day, I have a Suzuki GSXR1000 2009, I did a few days ago cleaning the injectors, calibration of spark plugs, change of filters and oil, after this it was throwing the code "C28" (indicates a malfunction of the secondary butterflies). TPS sensor seems to be well calibrated (line in the middle), check the ohm of the STVA actuator motor coils (of the secondary throttles) and it is within the range specified by the manufacturer, I checked the internal gears and they are fine, I checked continuity of the wiring from the STVA engine to the ECU and it is fine .. Now, I turn off, deactivate the workshop mode, disconnect the battery, reconnect everything and turn on Neutral and perfect, C00, when placing the first speed the secondary throttles close, they open, close and reopen and stay open and immediately return the code C28 ... I hope you can help me with this insignificant little problem .. thanks in advance ..
If you tested the STVA as shown in the video and everything checks out my next move would be to test the STPS. ruclips.net/video/xuy5HxmS6Qc/видео.html Use the link above and see if you're able to see dead spots in your STPS. I would also try swapping the STPS with the TPS. If the NOW.. TPS throws a C29 code..and not the C28 Code... then you know you have a bad STPS/now TPS and need to replace it. Pain in the butt to do all the alignment but at leastyou know for sure that they are working correctly..
Any type of wire that's used for say breadboarding circuit boards...22 gauge and above I think should cover it.. Don't quote me on that but kind of use that as a reference point
Hey I was thinking can I just add a pig tail to that, 4 wires to the 4 holes in the board then the 4 wires to the plug like the updated part! Don’t really know anything about electrical, would that work?
You sure can. In fact anything other then the original design that reduces the rigidity of the pcb connections should hold up well. If I had to do It the way your speaking of.. I would solder wires straight to the coil connection points in the video and totally eliminate any connections to the pcb.
It's a stepper motor that controls the movement of the secondary butterflies within the throttle body. Depending on your bikes year a motor like this can also be found in the exhaust popping to assist with back pressure.
Very nice video. I have an 2008 Suzuki Burgman 400 and i have F1 Code 28 STVA. I wish that you had had shop that you would can test and do these upgrade so this won't happen again. Me i am willing to pay
Thanks for the prop's, and yes I have thought about just buying and selling fixed versions of the STVA but it would require shipping cost and a good core replacement. To be honest it's such an easy fix for such a common problem that I thought I should share this knowledge. At the time of making the first STVA C28 code fix (5 years ago) there was a guy who was doing just this and he hated on that video so much that he posted all sorts of negative comments stating to my viewers that I didn't know what I was talking about and urged others not to follow my instructions because this was incorrect information. The truth was I was killing his repair business and he was upset me. The price he was charging was fair ($80-$100) considering he had to stock a few cores and supply the shipping charge which to be honest does takes some capital to do so since insured shipping is expensive and the STVA are not cheap or easy to get ahold of. Fast forward to today and my videos are now ranked number 1 in a google search (Front Page), in fact a lot of my videos are. I wasn't trying to take away from this guys business, just give information seekers the option to see what the repair entails and try and repair it themselves if pricing was an issue or seek professional service to have it performed if yo thought it was more than you could handle, as all it should be. I love the fact that with RUclips we can now research just about anything and find millions of ways to resolve that problem with a simple how to video, hence this DIY channel. The more information out there the better. If viewers want to donate in appreciation for me saving them hundreds of $$$ in repair cost I'm always grateful for that, if not, I'm cool with that to but to start a business and having to deal with customer satisfaction, negative reviews and price hagglers..uhhh... well... I'll pass, lol. I've been down that road before and it's more headache than its worth.
@@TheChemistDIY thank you. I see whats you talking about. Theres an company that want me to send him my STVA sensor, my CPU, and my bike Key. I know its the sensor. I even went as far taking the rubber hose off the Throttle Body and saw i only have 1 door and llok as of the front door was removed and the door way back not opening at all. I will just put it in the shop. It was running 95 and 100 mph but only getting it to do 60 mph.
My 04 750 doesn’t have an fi light and I haven’t done dealer mode yet as I bought my bike last night, but my issue is when I accelerate hard it hits a wall at 11k and won’t push past unless I ease through and get to redline that way, otherwise under hard acceleration it just won’t get past 11k in any gear, does this sound like stva issue or fuel pump? Please help I was so happy to get back on a 04 and soon as I really tried to open it up and wouldn’t get past 11k it broke my hear
Normally it starts in the 7k rpm range and above.. to describe it.. you can give the bike full throttle but wont go faster then about 70-80 mph if you're lucky and that's typical the feeling in every gear.. if your experiencing this then I suggest you try this fix to resolve the issue.. if it doesn't work then at least you know you will never have to revisit the C28 fix in the future..
@@sebitours1221 sorry didnt see this comment but the low fuel indicator (light) is crap on these bikes. I cant tell how many times I've ran out of gas because the light never came on. So now I always make sure on every fill up I set the trip meter to give me a more reliable indication of when it's time to add more fuel.. about 140 miles to a full tank seems to be the sweet spot... but I have pushed it to 155. If you think it's a fuel delivery issue, pressure and or volume, then there are tests to perform and check for that.
To get my c28 code of I simply adjusted the tps sensor problem solved.I would recommend when that codes on To check the tps theres an easy way to do that.
The geek does the job on eBay. Do you have an eBay for the 06-07 models. Mine isn’t doing this but rather pay someone who’s done hundreds. This is a prime need.
I've been toying around with the idea of offering the repair services for those who dont want to try on there own. What can i do for you brother? Why dont you want to try on your own?
Hello, my gsr600 has a code C01... what is that ? I saw that my tps is not in the middle and my decelerating after reaving is slowing down after 5000rpm. But i can't find anything about the C01 code.
The code CO1 does not exist. C00 mean nothing/all is fine and the first code start at C11. As for the slow drop after 5k RPMS, well thats the ECM trying to compensate maybe for a stall.. I would first adjust your TPS to the correct position and start from there.. That may fix the issue..
The pigtail was Suzuki's last-ditch effort to fix the common problem of the solder weld separating from the circuit board due to high vibration. The flexibility of the tail was supposed to eliminate most if not all vibration the circuit board receives. I've heard of a few experiencing the C28 code with the pigtail type but no one has ever reported back to me if the problem was related to the soldering points braking OR if my fix worked for them if that was the issue. If you decide to troubleshoot and attempt my fix can you please come back and report your findings back to us.
@@TheChemistDIY I'm never going to leave you alone, Sensei. Motor had water in it and was seized. Repaired it. Butterflies out of sync. Tried to adust stp sensor per the manual with little success. Friend managed to get them to open on start up as they should. But they close too fast and the bike dies. Any tips?
@@TheChemistDIY now that is ESSENTIALLY what they are doing. I BELIEVE the 06 - 07 600s have a different start up procedure but they are open or at least 95% open on start up, once the bike starts it idles briefly and the butterflies begin to close. They seem to close a little faster than yours in the video but not by much. Once they do close the engine loses power (I assume air) and it dies. So it's like the fast idle is off or something. But if there is no throttle being given to the bike it will die. I did not have this issue before removing the stva and the stp sensor.
thanks for the video, I'm getting C29 error, I'm assuming the STPS is bad, previous owner removed the secondary butterflies... can I splice the STPS wires into the primary TPS to get rid of the F1 error code since they use approximately the same voltages? Do you know if this would mess up the way the bike rides at all? I'd assume not considering the butterfly valves are removed anyway; I'm just not sure if the false TPS signal to the ECM would affect the ride
I understand your logic and thinking here and it may just work but I wouldn't risk it. This modification my end up frying the ECM as a result since one signal is dependent on the other. I would test the STPS to insure it is bad. I have a video on this.. the parts are also swappable so if you exchange STPS with TPS and see a C14 code then you know the STPS is truly bad.. ALSO check all you wires and pins for end to end connectivity with a digital multimeter toner, you may just have a bad wire causing a false reading.
@@TheChemistDIY ok, good advice, definitely not worth risking frying my ECM, i'll go through testing the STPS and consider ordering a replacement, thanks!!
there is a pigtail you can buy for the elimination of the butterflies! its only 90 bucks on ebay. im reinstalling my STVA tomorrow after doing this resolder. if that doesnt work i may send it to the chemist or i might eliminate the butterflies all together. but check this link for the Healtech Secondary Throttle Valve Eliminator www.ebay.com/itm/324552605624?hash=item4b90d7bfb8:g:4jcAAOSwWw9cnMdW
If im not mistaken I believe Suzuki moved away from the hard connector soldered to the PCB in the K6 models and above and went to pigtail. This of course didn't stop the C28 code from happening as many 06 folks still reach out to me. Will it fix your issue, I don't know but yes please confirm see we cane know for sure.
@@TheChemistDIY does it have an impact that they moved to a pigtail on the STVA? I mean, as far as I know, the 2011-2018 models have the STVA as like the k6-k8 models. Same motor same circuit but maybe other connectors. If I'm speaking bullshit here, I'm sry, I'm new into these things, like repairing and stuff. As I said I will try this today, and will give an update
The pigtail was supposed to reduce the amount of engine vibration placed on the STVA PCB at the connector solder points. Less rigidity from hanging wires. Not sure how well that worked out for Suzuki. Keep u posted brother!
Most C28 codes are usually because of this.. and yes this should fix your issue. Perform the test as I showed and find out. C29 if I'm not mistaken is the STPS located on the STVA .. first fix the C28 and then move to the C29..
Hey James... Thanks for the vids but Kinda need your help here, so I've been having this problem on my bike. When I rev it it won't pass 9k, some times it does but mostly all the time won't. So I checked tps and stps with ohms outside the bike and they seem fine. But when I plug them in and check on the main tps it won't pass 2.2 ohms, I checked everything but nothing... Any tips or help you can give me? It's a gsxr 600 2005, been watching your vids and they game some some ideas but haven't been able to fix it. Runs fine and all but when I go full throttle it's when it boggs.
What up armando, well the fact that you can get to but can't get past 9k has me thinking that this is going to be a fuel delivery issue. STVA issue is usually in the 4k and above range and no matter how much gas you give it the bike won't go past 70mph.. Yes it is odd that when bench test the TPS and STPS that they're fine but on the bike the reading aren't there.. but if the bike is able to run and get to 9k doesn't have me looking at them to be your issue.. I'm thinking that you are losing fuel pressure or fuel delivery. If that is the case I would look at the fuel pump and check to see if you have a dirty fuel filter, losing power to the fuel pump, inspect the bottom of the gas tank for rust or dirt, test the fuel pressure, perform a fuel delivery test and inspect and flush the injectors.
@@TheChemistDIY 05 750 gixxer started to bog out 1-3 gears , put into dealer mode no codes but noticed idle was high. Unplugged stps to adjusted the tps when i plugged everything back up and tried to start it won't turn over and now getting a c28 code. I do notice unusual noise coming from stva. Just wondering if the stva went bad (as I suspect), would it cause bike to not start/turn over
I've never known the STVA to cause a non-start issue. I've even crossed the TPS and STPS connections and the bike still started but ran like crap.. have you toned out your STVA like I showed in the video to indicate a solid connection?
If you can find one of this type then you should be good. Most will make you also purchase the stack as well.. never seen it come alone. But if yours is completely toast then I guess you have no option.. right? Just know that this is a common problem and you will most likely be revisiting this issue again if you don't permanently fix as shown. I got tired of fixing mine and why I went this route.. haven't been in there since..
@@TheChemistDIY the little peace that broke i cant find it by itself but ig i wont take it apart, ill put it in there altogether once it arrives www.ebay.com/itm/262917097326?hash=item3d3714876e:g:b7cAAOSwSlBY2H8b that is the link to the piece, ill see if the light goes away and the bike runs properly, and see if i can reinforce it like you did in the video, thanks for replying!!
Man, we really need to find a place that makes the STVA assembly.. $300 is robbery for just a stepper motor and faulty circuit board.. but I'm glad you found one.. I have seen the complete top end on eBay for $300. I would have took the top end as well and had something to port and polish to swap with for a few extra ponies.. or even just to swap with when it was time for throttle body cleaning..
Odd, this should have fixed it. Have you performed the STVA test in the service manual to see if your getting the correct readings from all four pins? Aside from the traces breaking free from the board there is not much that can go wrong with the stepper motor. Did you tone test all of your connections as demonstrated in the video?
As long as it works, .. occasionally I have phantom problems.. one minute the're there for a good week or so and the next their gone never to be heard from again.. Wish my Ex would follow those same guidlines..lol.
Sorry brother, many have asked but I don't do the repair simply because of the liability. Although you can go on eBay and there are a few selling the repair, you just need to ship them your part..
У тебя хоть можно датчик снять ! Я этого не могу сделать.Он у меня уперается в раму.Чтобы его полностью снять нужно снять двигатель ? ))))) У меня Suzuki gsx-r 750 K7
@@TheChemistDIYWhat is your e-mail brother? I heard you are in the IE area in socal. Im local so you wont run the risk of liability via shipping. I understand you support and encourage others to fix their own breakdowns instead of taking it to get it repaired. I’ve recently gotten a K7 GSXR 600 and have been putting in a good amount of work already. I did my own Sprockets, chains, fuel pump repair, gas tank cap swap, rectifier relocation, etc.. And I learned all of it through youtube. But I put my trust into someone that has superior electrical/mechanical knowledge than I do. I do appreciate the free content and knowledge you are spreading and I do understand the concepts. It’s just buying the necessary tools for the repair will cost me around the same as just getting it repaired. And again, I don’t want to run the risk of a bad repair if I can just have someone with superior knowledge and skills execute a good repair. Besides, it’s money going in your wallet. Think about it brother. Thanks for your time!
I've been pondering this for a minute, a lot have asked the same of me. I don't do the repair because there's a lot in liability. I would hate for you to send me your STVA and it get lost in shipping or have something else malfunction with it and the consumer blame it on me.
As long as your up and running brother, that's all that matters. If I may ask, what was the price you paid for your refurbished unit. I'm sure many coming through here will want to know.
Yes, I have seen his postings on eBay as well. Sounds like a good deal for those not looking to do the repair on there own. Can you confirm for us if he used the permninate fix I showed here in the video or was it the normal solder weld repair.
I love smart guys. Weld is a term used to fuse things together.. umm, ever hear of JB Weld, contact cement, plastic fusion, yet no arch needed right. Let me help you out, Here is the dictionary definition for you brother. 1. join together (metal pieces or parts) by heating the surfaces to the point of melting using a blowtorch, electric arc, or other means, and uniting them by pressing, hammering, etc. Similar: fuse, unite, bond, connect, stick, join, link, attach, bind, seal, amalgamate, knit, splice, meld, melt, blend, solder, cement, glue, gum, paste forge (an article) by welding. unite (pieces of plastic or other material) by melting or softening of surfaces in contact. Thanks for commenting :)
@@TheChemistDIY Actually @1silvervespa is right. Soldering is an adhesion process, therefore not welding, which is a fusion process. Yes, the solder does melt - but the parent metals do not. Welding requires melting and fusion of both parts. JB Weld is a brand name, it has nothing to do with the topic. Epoxy resins still operate on adhesion principles. Who cares in the end haha.
Thank you for this well presented and explained video, I had the dreaded C28 code and repaired the STVA in line with the permanent fix , Butterflies are back to normal operation - you saved me a lot of cash considering suzuki will only sell you the entire rail
bro thank you so much! i sat here and performed this step by step and it looks good. the welds or solders dont seperate from the board no more so i assume i got it. i put it back together carefully and made sure everything was lined up and i will throw it back on my bike tomorrow. my 750 looks exactly like yours same color fairings and everything. Have you ever thought about maybe making your own pig tail? im sure there is a blank plug that is just like this one and a pigtail could be made somehow as a perm fix too. I will report back tomorrow if this fixes my problem. my only concern tho is my butter flys are stuck in the open position so i hope i can get it back on with no issues. If not then idk. i guess ill send my STVA to you, thanks again for the great video
Thanks for the video helped me out , am in Harare Zimbabwe Africa and there's no Suzuki service shop , thanks
Zimbabwe..wow!.. till this day It still amazes me how far were able to reach people through RUclips. Thanks for the comments Marshall, greatly appreciated. Be sure to subscribe and lock in the channel. I have over 108 diy videos to get your bike up and running and many of them can be applied to any sport bike to get you out of a pinch..
see you next problem
Best video about C28 error fix
Bro you're awesome. All 3 of your videos have saved me so much money. You're awesome
Thanks brother, glad I could help you out. Stick around, more to come, including two body kit reviews..
The man himself ! Doing what he do BESTTT!
What is your e-mail brother? I heard you are in the IE area in socal. Im local so you wont run the risk of liability via shipping. I understand you support and encourage others to fix their own breakdowns instead of taking it to get it repaired. I’ve recently gotten a K7 GSXR 600 and have been putting in a good amount of work already. I did my own Sprockets, chains, fuel pump repair, gas tank cap swap, rectifier relocation, etc.. And I learned all of it through youtube. But I put my trust into someone that has superior electrical/mechanical knowledge than I do. I do appreciate the free content and knowledge you are spreading and I do understand the concepts. It’s just buying the necessary tools for the repair will cost me around the same as just getting it repaired. And again, I don’t want to run the risk of a bad repair if I can just have someone with superior knowledge and skills execute a good repair. Besides, it’s money going in your wallet. Think about it brother. Thanks for your time!
You can reach me at jamesmorenojr@gmail.com.
Hey 👋🏼 just want to say thanks for uploading this video.
You helped me an alot of other persons.
Keep the good work up. 👏
I managed to use spray foam to lessen vibration. I also use rubber o-rings on engine bolts. I can say it lessens lots of vibration.
I did exactly what you did in your test.except visually i cld see the solder from the original weld come apart on movement.what i did was solder it back together but just over the connecter i put in some rubber which causes it to be super snug in the stva when everything is mounted up.but i will be sure to do ur method down the line great vid man.love this year gsxr especially seeing as it makes the same power as the year model after it
Ya, my first go around with this issue I had the same. You could see the solder weld lift from the PCB PAD and it was a little chard around it. This is actually my 3rd time in here and thought to myself there's got to be a better way.. I'm tired of fixing this damn thing..lol. That's when it hit me..
We share the same passion, I love this year as well.. me and Luce (AKA Lucy Liu) till the wheels fall off.. haha. Thanks for comment
it would have been nice to have step to step reassembly of the stepper motor to be sure that the stepper motor position fits to the position of the butterfly. Some people made mistake and damaged the sensor while reassembly
Sorry to hear that brother.. I find this a bit Odd since I haven't seen anyone who's watched this 3 part series state anything about damaging their STPS in any of the comments.. So, Just a recap on the series:
1. Dealership Plug location & Mode
2. Removal/ Disassembly/Soldering & Proper reassembly of STVA
3. Permanent fix (solder in wires to the main contact points)
You have to remember that these videos were made over the course of what, 7 year's, and after a few times of fixing and repairing finally arriving to this solution where I/you wouldn't have to do it EVER again.
Part two is where you find the information you are describing (setting the cog gear in the STVA) which is posted in the cards that flash in the top right corner.
Not sure how I could get anymore clearer then that bro. That video was super long. Maybe they just didn't see that video.
This adds so much clarity! Thank you for making this video!
Glade you enjoyed and found beneficial. Be sure to lock in the channel by subscribing.. theres over 108 diy repairs, all that can be applied to most sport bikes..
Would copper tape not work? I have some laying around and need to fix this. Just replaced the stator and rectifier today.
But I checked and I still have a c28 code.
The wire method is probably a lot more stable and a safer bet to not have to do it all again.
I would stick to the soldering in of wires. It's more durable and less prone to come undone with the elements (heat,water..ECT). After this fix I've never had another problem with the STVA..
I need to know what wires go where inside the connector..their is a green white black and pink..what color goes where for the 4 pins in the connector to the stva
Hey Bro, first of all thanbks for your time, as you explain the problem is the vibration but if im not riding should the valves not work fine initially as soon as I start the motorbike, I took the stva for a fix a they told me that the problem is the soldering so they put a new soldering but not like yours, after this still not working, wanted to know if yours was working at least when you turn the motorbike on? thanks for your time your vid are helping so many riders.
Take a look at this video to see the proper operation..
ruclips.net/video/wfuXw0nhwh8/видео.html
I have an 04 GSXR 750 with a C28 code. I think this repair will fix my problems. I have watched other videos about this code and one person referred to someone that has fixed these. I’m assuming that person may be you considering you fixed the sensor in your video.
My question is if I sent you my sensor would you repair it for me and send it back? Obviously for a fee.
I appreciate your time, Pat
What's up dorian, im curious to know I've created two RUclips instructional videos on how to repair the STVA on your own, all which show comments of those who tried and were successful, do you not think you're capable?
I typically don't do repairs for hire but there is a guy on ebay that does it for like $75.. just type in 2004 Suzuki GSXR 750 STVA in your ebay app.. honestly I think he's just saw my video I posted 5 years back and decided to sell the service.
Thanks man I just find this video is awesome!!
Very nice video!!! does it apply even for Suzuki GSX-R 750 2008?
Applies to all motorcycles that use this type of stepper motor to actuate the butterfly movement. Including the version with he pig tail.
A little update! I installed and boom! It worked! I flipped the cut off switch, the butterflies opened and when it warmed up they closed and no more code! I’m so happy! Thanks again man!
There's nothing better than the feeling of accomplishment. I'm glad this worked out for you. Any questions feel free to ask.
I have an (intermittent) problem. The engine turns on, but it gets brief gear clicking noises. Generate code 28 sometimes. Help me? gsxr k2. Congratulations for the video
So the older model Suzuki's STVAs are notorious for making all sorts of strange noise. The clicking noise your hearing is the Plastic gearing inside slipping.. this may be because the butterfly linkage is to stiff for the stepper motor to turn and needs lubricant (dry lube). the code may be thrown because of this but I would still check to see if the PCB connections are good if you get in there..
Was having this issue again , I’ve fixed this problem before but I did the permanent fix this go around. I tested it, all the numbers checked out so I installed it in the bike and the stva motor works and rotated, but now it seems as if the motor doesn’t have enough strength to rotate the butterfly valves so I’m at a loss. Maybe the motor itself is bad considering it’s 18 years old
Let's look at the more obvious B4 we claim a bad stepper and start swapping out parts. When was the last time you performed a throttle body cleaning and thoroughly cleaned and lubed them flies.. it maybe that there is to much friction and that's why the motor is struggling.
My TB has 155,150 miles on it and has sat on top of two engines now.. all work just fine.. just saying..
That would be my first step.. breakdown and clean every inch of it..
Found the issue, wire connection in the ECM plug would giggle loose and prevent stva from running properly. Got it fixed for now, thanks man. Appreciate the video
Help pls, got a k7 gsxR600, i dnt have any fi or any code occuring on the dash but my stva flaps are twitching like crazy when my bike is in idle, but it stops and behave when i whack open the throttle above 6k rpm, and when it falls down 6k rpm the twitching will start again
Test the STVA as I have shown in the Video to see if you have a broken solder weld, solder pad, and or copper trace. Its extremely rare that the stepper motor goes bad and it usually boils down to the circuit board.
Thanks alot, I will test this
Dude this is awesome 👏 😊
Great vid, would this be the same with the sv650? I've got the c28 code but throttle body all seems to be working as it should.
From what I've seen and others here have shown, the C28 Code spands across most if not all Suzuki models. If you're getting the code then most likely the solder weld is broken but not completely and the ECU is not getting the reading it should.. given enough time and vibration and it will break free giving you an issue.. doesn't hurt to go in and touch things up for piece of mind.
@@TheChemistDIY thanks for taking the time to give a prompt, much appreciated. I'll dive in a take a look, if I can't fix it I can always just buy a new one. Thanks again, ride safe 👍
I broke mine during a swap, put a new one in and now it won’t operate properly, been months and I can’t find a fix
That sucks, how did you break it..??
@@TheChemistDIY it got wedged against the frame :/
@@NathanKarhu not sure what year you have but dont let that keep you from riding brother..
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F274037448057
That was some nice work. Definitely, the correct fix. My motherboard went bad, so this eliminates that problem also.
Yeah, those copper clad traces don't hold up to well. I was even pondering to just eliminate the PCB board all together and run a pig tail like you see on the newer models and 1000s. I'm pretty sure with this fix I won't ever have to return to repairing this again but if I do I will for sure try converting the wire to a leash style setup and removing the board altogether. Time will tell...
@@TheChemistDIY Still all good? :-)
@@krazed0451 o yes.. apply this fix and forget about ever having this issue.
@@TheChemistDIY Beauty :-)
@@TheChemistDIY Hey, the video is a ton of help! Would you recommend doing it this way or find a way to convert it to a pigtail setup?
Will this cause the bike not to start. Been testing everything on he bike it cranks and gets fuels bi not sparking over
depends, but no. The STVA just controls the secondary buttterflys. At most if this faults the bike is put in limp home mode. For a bike to crank but not fire up OR does fire up but wont stay on your looking at three things... "CONSISTANT " Fuel, Air, Spark. Question is whitch one are you missing.
Drop some gas in each of the 4 stacks (not to much). Then fire her up.. If she turns over then you found your problem.. Fuel!
Anyone have any recommendations for a 951 no clean flux alternative? It won't get to me in time for track day sadly.
Hello, good day, I have a Suzuki GSXR1000 2009, I did a few days ago cleaning the injectors, calibration of spark plugs, change of filters and oil, after this it was throwing the code "C28" (indicates a malfunction of the secondary butterflies). TPS sensor seems to be well calibrated (line in the middle), check the ohm of the STVA actuator motor coils (of the secondary throttles) and it is within the range specified by the manufacturer, I checked the internal gears and they are fine, I checked continuity of the wiring from the STVA engine to the ECU and it is fine .. Now, I turn off, deactivate the workshop mode, disconnect the battery, reconnect everything and turn on Neutral and perfect, C00, when placing the first speed the secondary throttles close, they open, close and reopen and stay open and immediately return the code C28 ... I hope you can help me with this insignificant little problem .. thanks in advance ..
If you tested the STVA as shown in the video and everything checks out my next move would be to test the STPS.
ruclips.net/video/xuy5HxmS6Qc/видео.html
Use the link above and see if you're able to see dead spots in your STPS. I would also try swapping the STPS with the TPS. If the NOW.. TPS throws a C29 code..and not the C28 Code... then you know you have a bad STPS/now TPS and need to replace it. Pain in the butt to do all the alignment but at leastyou know for sure that they are working correctly..
hi solved your bike mine is with the same defect as yours could you see what it was??
I'm doing this right now to my K4 600 Just not sure what size of wire to get
Any type of wire that's used for say breadboarding circuit boards...22 gauge and above I think should cover it.. Don't quote me on that but kind of use that as a reference point
amzn.to/4aI6Amb
Hey I was thinking can I just add a pig tail to that, 4 wires to the 4 holes in the board then the 4 wires to the plug like the updated part! Don’t really know anything about electrical, would that work?
You sure can. In fact anything other then the original design that reduces the rigidity of the pcb connections should hold up well. If I had to do It the way your speaking of.. I would solder wires straight to the coil connection points in the video and totally eliminate any connections to the pcb.
@@TheChemistDIY I’ll give it a shot and keep you posted! Thanks for the reply
Dude, seriously... What an amazing video!!
Thanks brother, appreciate you appreciating my work..lol. Are you a Gixxr owner with a STVA issue?
@@TheChemistDIY yes sir! Tackling it this weekend
Hey Jared, Just checking to see what the out come was.??
@@TheChemistDIY problem solved 👌
@@jaredmcgrath6311 awesome brother, glad your up and running.
Unfortunately did this with my 06 750 and still have the same c28 code. Time to buy an ebay one and hope it works
How did it turn out?
@@elijahkoenig729 Ended up being the control module on the ECU being fried. Bought a used ECU from the marketplace and it fixed my problem
@@DowntownDarius Oh thats good to hear. I'm having a massive STVA problem myself :(
What is the purpose of that motor?
It's a stepper motor that controls the movement of the secondary butterflies within the throttle body. Depending on your bikes year a motor like this can also be found in the exhaust popping to assist with back pressure.
Very nice video. I have an 2008 Suzuki Burgman 400 and i have F1 Code 28 STVA. I wish that you had had shop that you would can test and do these upgrade so this won't happen again. Me i am willing to pay
Thanks for the prop's, and yes I have thought about just buying and selling fixed versions of the STVA but it would require shipping cost and a good core replacement. To be honest it's such an easy fix for such a common problem that I thought I should share this knowledge.
At the time of making the first STVA C28 code fix (5 years ago) there was a guy who was doing just this and he hated on that video so much that he posted all sorts of negative comments stating to my viewers that I didn't know what I was talking about and urged others not to follow my instructions because this was incorrect information. The truth was I was killing his repair business and he was upset me. The price he was charging was fair ($80-$100) considering he had to stock a few cores and supply the shipping charge which to be honest does takes some capital to do so since insured shipping is expensive and the STVA are not cheap or easy to get ahold of.
Fast forward to today and my videos are now ranked number 1 in a google search (Front Page), in fact a lot of my videos are. I wasn't trying to take away from this guys business, just give information seekers the option to see what the repair entails and try and repair it themselves if pricing was an issue or seek professional service to have it performed if yo thought it was more than you could handle, as all it should be.
I love the fact that with RUclips we can now research just about anything and find millions of ways to resolve that problem with a simple how to video, hence this DIY channel. The more information out there the better.
If viewers want to donate in appreciation for me saving them hundreds of $$$ in repair cost I'm always grateful for that, if not, I'm cool with that to but to start a business and having to deal with customer satisfaction, negative reviews and price hagglers..uhhh... well... I'll pass, lol. I've been down that road before and it's more headache than its worth.
@@TheChemistDIY thank you. I see whats you talking about. Theres an company that want me to send him my STVA sensor, my CPU, and my bike Key. I know its the sensor. I even went as far taking the rubber hose off the Throttle Body and saw i only have 1 door and llok as of the front door was removed and the door way back not opening at all. I will just put it in the shop. It was running 95 and 100 mph but only getting it to do 60 mph.
My 04 750 doesn’t have an fi light and I haven’t done dealer mode yet as I bought my bike last night, but my issue is when I accelerate hard it hits a wall at 11k and won’t push past unless I ease through and get to redline that way, otherwise under hard acceleration it just won’t get past 11k in any gear, does this sound like stva issue or fuel pump? Please help I was so happy to get back on a 04 and soon as I really tried to open it up and wouldn’t get past 11k it broke my hear
Also the low fuel indicator isn’t working either maybe that could be a sign it’s fuel related and not stva or tps?
Normally it starts in the 7k rpm range and above.. to describe it.. you can give the bike full throttle but wont go faster then about 70-80 mph if you're lucky and that's typical the feeling in every gear.. if your experiencing this then I suggest you try this fix to resolve the issue.. if it doesn't work then at least you know you will never have to revisit the C28 fix in the future..
@@sebitours1221 sorry didnt see this comment but the low fuel indicator (light) is crap on these bikes. I cant tell how many times I've ran out of gas because the light never came on. So now I always make sure on every fill up I set the trip meter to give me a more reliable indication of when it's time to add more fuel.. about 140 miles to a full tank seems to be the sweet spot... but I have pushed it to 155.
If you think it's a fuel delivery issue, pressure and or volume, then there are tests to perform and check for that.
I had this problem on my bike. It was the main fuel filter. Did a filter bypass, same as an 04 Vstrom.
To get my c28 code of I simply adjusted the tps sensor problem solved.I would recommend when that codes on To check the tps theres an easy way to do that.
Consider yourself lucky
Don’t you offer services to repairing this. And where do I send in mine for repair.
The geek does the job on eBay. Do you have an eBay for the 06-07 models. Mine isn’t doing this but rather pay someone who’s done hundreds. This is a prime need.
I've been toying around with the idea of offering the repair services for those who dont want to try on there own. What can i do for you brother? Why dont you want to try on your own?
Thanks! It works!
Hello, my gsr600 has a code C01... what is that ? I saw that my tps is not in the middle and my decelerating after reaving is slowing down after 5000rpm. But i can't find anything about the C01 code.
The code CO1 does not exist. C00 mean nothing/all is fine and the first code start at C11. As for the slow drop after 5k RPMS, well thats the ECM trying to compensate maybe for a stall.. I would first adjust your TPS to the correct position and start from there.. That may fix the issue..
@@TheChemistDIY Thx man , my dash screen has some dead pixels so i think it says C00. I will adjust the TPS snd see from there. THX !!!
My bike is giving me the code C28 but my STVA has a pigtail .is it the same issue?
The pigtail was Suzuki's last-ditch effort to fix the common problem of the solder weld separating from the circuit board due to high vibration. The flexibility of the tail was supposed to eliminate most if not all vibration the circuit board receives.
I've heard of a few experiencing the C28 code with the pigtail type but no one has ever reported back to me if the problem was related to the soldering points braking OR if my fix worked for them if that was the issue.
If you decide to troubleshoot and attempt my fix can you please come back and report your findings back to us.
I was commenting on another one of your videos, but I finally had time to open the bike and the secondary butterflies will NOT move by hand.
So if you're having issues there is where it lie's..
@@TheChemistDIY I'm never going to leave you alone, Sensei. Motor had water in it and was seized. Repaired it. Butterflies out of sync. Tried to adust stp sensor per the manual with little success. Friend managed to get them to open on start up as they should. But they close too fast and the bike dies. Any tips?
Actually not sure it's how fast they close is causing it to die. But it refuses to idle once they close.
@@JustinKeithD so take a look at this video and tell me if this is how your butterflies are operating or not.
ruclips.net/video/wfuXw0nhwh8/видео.html
@@TheChemistDIY now that is ESSENTIALLY what they are doing. I BELIEVE the 06 - 07 600s have a different start up procedure but they are open or at least 95% open on start up, once the bike starts it idles briefly and the butterflies begin to close. They seem to close a little faster than yours in the video but not by much. Once they do close the engine loses power (I assume air) and it dies. So it's like the fast idle is off or something. But if there is no throttle being given to the bike it will die. I did not have this issue before removing the stva and the stp sensor.
thanks for the video, I'm getting C29 error, I'm assuming the STPS is bad, previous owner removed the secondary butterflies... can I splice the STPS wires into the primary TPS to get rid of the F1 error code since they use approximately the same voltages? Do you know if this would mess up the way the bike rides at all? I'd assume not considering the butterfly valves are removed anyway; I'm just not sure if the false TPS signal to the ECM would affect the ride
I understand your logic and thinking here and it may just work but I wouldn't risk it. This modification my end up frying the ECM as a result since one signal is dependent on the other. I would test the STPS to insure it is bad. I have a video on this.. the parts are also swappable so if you exchange STPS with TPS and see a C14 code then you know the STPS is truly bad..
ALSO check all you wires and pins for end to end connectivity with a digital multimeter toner, you may just have a bad wire causing a false reading.
@@TheChemistDIY ok, good advice, definitely not worth risking frying my ECM, i'll go through testing the STPS and consider ordering a replacement, thanks!!
there is a pigtail you can buy for the elimination of the butterflies! its only 90 bucks on ebay. im reinstalling my STVA tomorrow after doing this resolder. if that doesnt work i may send it to the chemist or i might eliminate the butterflies all together. but check this link for the Healtech Secondary Throttle Valve Eliminator
www.ebay.com/itm/324552605624?hash=item4b90d7bfb8:g:4jcAAOSwWw9cnMdW
Is this the same issue causend on the gsxr 600 l1? (2011) I will try this and will give an update if this worked.
If im not mistaken I believe Suzuki moved away from the hard connector soldered to the PCB in the K6 models and above and went to pigtail. This of course didn't stop the C28 code from happening as many 06 folks still reach out to me. Will it fix your issue, I don't know but yes please confirm see we cane know for sure.
@@TheChemistDIY does it have an impact that they moved to a pigtail on the STVA? I mean, as far as I know, the 2011-2018 models have the STVA as like the k6-k8 models. Same motor same circuit but maybe other connectors. If I'm speaking bullshit here, I'm sry, I'm new into these things, like repairing and stuff. As I said I will try this today, and will give an update
The pigtail was supposed to reduce the amount of engine vibration placed on the STVA PCB at the connector solder points. Less rigidity from hanging wires. Not sure how well that worked out for Suzuki.
Keep u posted brother!
Champion Bro👍👌🤟
I went ahead & solderd mine back & put it back in & still won’t work need help!k4 gsxr600
So, did you tone out the top and bottom pins like I demonstrated to insure you connectivity ..?
Might need to just replace it
Is This works for gsxs 750 2018 got the same code c28 ????
If you have broken solder joints then yes... It should.
Hey man I like your work where are you located
Thanks..Cali.. San Bernardino
I'm having the c28 and c29 code on my 06 gsxr600. You think this would fix my problem?
Most C28 codes are usually because of this.. and yes this should fix your issue. Perform the test as I showed and find out. C29 if I'm not mistaken is the STPS located on the STVA .. first fix the C28 and then move to the C29..
@@TheChemistDIY ok thank you for your quick reply. Much appreciated
Hey James... Thanks for the vids but
Kinda need your help here, so I've been having this problem on my bike.
When I rev it it won't pass 9k, some times it does but mostly all the time won't.
So I checked tps and stps with ohms outside the bike and they seem fine.
But when I plug them in and check on the main tps it won't pass 2.2 ohms, I checked everything but nothing... Any tips or help you can give me?
It's a gsxr 600 2005, been watching your vids and they game some some ideas but haven't been able to fix it. Runs fine and all but when I go full throttle it's when it boggs.
What up armando, well the fact that you can get to but can't get past 9k has me thinking that this is going to be a fuel delivery issue. STVA issue is usually in the 4k and above range and no matter how much gas you give it the bike won't go past 70mph..
Yes it is odd that when bench test the TPS and STPS that they're fine but on the bike the reading aren't there.. but if the bike is able to run and get to 9k doesn't have me looking at them to be your issue.. I'm thinking that you are losing fuel pressure or fuel delivery. If that is the case I would look at the fuel pump and check to see if you have a dirty fuel filter, losing power to the fuel pump, inspect the bottom of the gas tank for rust or dirt, test the fuel pressure, perform a fuel delivery test and inspect and flush the injectors.
Or you have possibly a problem without a code...because you have 4 wires both for actuator open or close direction
Thank you so much 🙏
Thanks so much
From N.S. ,Cape Breton, Canada. T. Y. From U of Boohoo crew ... :-)
Will a c28 code on gixxer cause the bike not to start up ?
Answers lie in the details.. your not being specific... Paint me a visual of what you experiencing.
@@TheChemistDIY 05 750 gixxer started to bog out 1-3 gears , put into dealer mode no codes but noticed idle was high. Unplugged stps to adjusted the tps when i plugged everything back up and tried to start it won't turn over and now getting a c28 code. I do notice unusual noise coming from stva. Just wondering if the stva went bad (as I suspect), would it cause bike to not start/turn over
I've never known the STVA to cause a non-start issue. I've even crossed the TPS and STPS connections and the bike still started but ran like crap.. have you toned out your STVA like I showed in the video to indicate a solid connection?
do you think if i buy the piece off Ebay and install it, it'll be fine?
If you can find one of this type then you should be good. Most will make you also purchase the stack as well.. never seen it come alone. But if yours is completely toast then I guess you have no option.. right? Just know that this is a common problem and you will most likely be revisiting this issue again if you don't permanently fix as shown. I got tired of fixing mine and why I went this route.. haven't been in there since..
@@TheChemistDIY the little peace that broke i cant find it by itself but ig i wont take it apart, ill put it in there altogether once it arrives www.ebay.com/itm/262917097326?hash=item3d3714876e:g:b7cAAOSwSlBY2H8b that is the link to the piece, ill see if the light goes away and the bike runs properly, and see if i can reinforce it like you did in the video, thanks for replying!!
Man, we really need to find a place that makes the STVA assembly.. $300 is robbery for just a stepper motor and faulty circuit board.. but I'm glad you found one.. I have seen the complete top end on eBay for $300. I would have took the top end as well and had something to port and polish to swap with for a few extra ponies.. or even just to swap with when it was time for throttle body cleaning..
Legend
I just did this on my GSXR600 k4 but still shooting the code and what’s more frustrating is the fact that I’m restricted to 70mph 😒
Odd, this should have fixed it. Have you performed the STVA test in the service manual to see if your getting the correct readings from all four pins?
Aside from the traces breaking free from the board there is not much that can go wrong with the stepper motor. Did you tone test all of your connections as demonstrated in the video?
I checked the connections like the video explained, I’m thinking it’s the wire I used? If not the ecm might be shot
how do you put it back together
ruclips.net/video/wfuXw0nhwh8/видео.html
I needed to see how it’s taken off the bike
I got you...
ruclips.net/video/wfuXw0nhwh8/видео.htmlsi=fuH8-p2Mvrd2Krms
is it valid for 2000-2003 model?
As long as the STVA resembles the one in the Video this should work..
Mine was doing it too and I took it apart and I didn’t see nothing wrong with it and put it back together lol
As long as it works, .. occasionally I have phantom problems.. one minute the're there for a good week or so and the next their gone never to be heard from again.. Wish my Ex would follow those same guidlines..lol.
james moreno I was like this thing is just tripping a code for no reason lol
Yeah, hard to notice since it's not completely obvious, but the issue is there if codes are being thrown.
james moreno yeah but mine isn’t messing up at all and everything
Thank you 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Perfect!!!
Can you fix my?
Sorry brother, many have asked but I don't do the repair simply because of the liability. Although you can go on eBay and there are a few selling the repair, you just need to ship them your part..
У тебя хоть можно датчик снять ! Я этого не могу сделать.Он у меня уперается в раму.Чтобы его полностью снять нужно снять двигатель ? ))))) У меня Suzuki gsx-r 750 K7
You just need to remove the throttle body assembly from the engine to pull off the STVA.. a bit but more work then the K5 but still doable..
Could. I send u mines n could u fix it
Sorry for the late response, You know I've been pondering this for a moment. You can shoot me an email and we can discuss.
@@TheChemistDIYWhat is your e-mail brother?
I heard you are in the IE area in socal. Im local so you wont run the risk of liability via shipping. I understand you support and encourage others to fix their own breakdowns instead of taking it to get it repaired. I’ve recently gotten a K7 GSXR 600 and have been putting in a good amount of work already. I did my own Sprockets, chains, fuel pump repair, gas tank cap swap, rectifier relocation, etc.. And I learned all of it through youtube. But I put my trust into someone that has superior electrical/mechanical knowledge than I do. I do appreciate the free content and knowledge you are spreading and I do understand the concepts. It’s just buying the necessary tools for the repair will cost me around the same as just getting it repaired. And again, I don’t want to run the risk of a bad repair if I can just have someone with superior knowledge and skills execute a good repair. Besides, it’s money going in your wallet. Think about it brother. Thanks for your time!
james can I snd you my stva off my k4 gsxr and have you soder in 4 wires into the connections ill pay shipping and your fee
I've been pondering this for a minute, a lot have asked the same of me. I don't do the repair because there's a lot in liability. I would hate for you to send me your STVA and it get lost in shipping or have something else malfunction with it and the consumer blame it on me.
I got mine refurbished but thank you for responding
As long as your up and running brother, that's all that matters. If I may ask, what was the price you paid for your refurbished unit. I'm sure many coming through here will want to know.
@@TheChemistDIY stva_repairthegeekoneBay cost 75$ used my unit recieved it 6 days later he has done over 600 svtaś
Yes, I have seen his postings on eBay as well. Sounds like a good deal for those not looking to do the repair on there own. Can you confirm for us if he used the permninate fix I showed here in the video or was it the normal solder weld repair.
Finally
Solder joints ! Not Welds ...
I love smart guys. Weld is a term used to fuse things together.. umm, ever hear of JB Weld, contact cement, plastic fusion, yet no arch needed right.
Let me help you out, Here is the dictionary definition for you brother.
1. join together (metal pieces or parts) by heating the surfaces to the point of melting using a blowtorch, electric arc, or other means, and uniting them by pressing, hammering, etc.
Similar:
fuse, unite, bond, connect, stick, join, link, attach, bind, seal, amalgamate, knit, splice, meld, melt, blend, solder, cement, glue, gum, paste
forge (an article) by welding.
unite (pieces of plastic or other material) by melting or softening of surfaces in contact.
Thanks for commenting :)
@@TheChemistDIY Actually @1silvervespa is right. Soldering is an adhesion process, therefore not welding, which is a fusion process. Yes, the solder does melt - but the parent metals do not. Welding requires melting and fusion of both parts. JB Weld is a brand name, it has nothing to do with the topic. Epoxy resins still operate on adhesion principles.
Who cares in the end haha.