Thanks for such a detailed video I'm dealing with issues with the same oven. The oven will preheat and then cycle off and will not relight. The ignitor will cycle but the burner does not come on
Hi. So the ignitor is working, but no gas comes out to start the oven? Does this happen on both the broiler and the bottom flame? In any case, you are most likely down to two things. It's either the gas control valve (where the gas input connects under the burners) or it could be the control board. I would suspect the gas valve because this is a very simple part. It works through a spring-loaded solenoid. In my case, a wire inside had broken, so the valve would never open. You could check the valve by turning the gas to the stove off, but leaving electric power on. When you turn on the oven check the voltage at the gas valve connector to see if the control board is commanding it to open. If so, the valve is bad. It's a $75 part. Just be very careful to turn off the gas when replacing the valve and seal the connections properly when you replace it.
@@mauishellcondo Thanks for the reply. The broiler works and it seems to work like on convection but not on regular bake mode. I ordered a new ignitor because it's fairly inexpensive and easy to replace. If that doesn't work I'll give the gas off test a try
@@mauishellcondo After replacing the ignitor the oven is back in fully working order. Thank you once again for the very informative video, and for responding to the comments
great video! question: you mentioned that replacing the broil element was pretty straightforward.. do you fix that by cutting + splicing the wires with the new element (with a ceramic wire nut)? or does that also involve opening up the top/rear panels?
Yes, for the top broiler igniter, the wires run into the back panel, so the rear panel needs to be removed. Depending on your model and the new igniter, you may have to cut the old wiring because on my model, the igniter has metal connectors attached to it. I just reused these connectors and spliced in the new wires with the supplied wire nuts. Make sure you disconnect power before opening it up.
@@mauishellcondo Thanks for confirming. I was going to cut the wires inside of the oven itself, so good tip on accessing it via the rear panel :). Any tips on moving the heavy range out? I'm able to get the door off.. how do you move your range?
@@charugauri Certainly remove the heavy iron grates from the top. This will make it lighter. Depending upon how much friction exists between the floor and oven footings, you may be able to use the big door to help you pull it out. I left the door installed and gently tugged on the door handle while it was partially open and the oven would move about an inch or so. Try that a few times and you may create enough clearance to get behind the oven to open it up. Just be gentle when tugging on the door. It's held in by those locking clasps so they are not meant to carry a heavy load. With gentle persuasion, you may get it to move.
My burners aren’t held down by those two tbit screws. They are held down by Venturi in the center. Do you know what way to turn or an easy way to get them out?
Do you have the same model? I believe mine were held by star bits (I may have said T-bits incorrectly). If you can attach a photo maybe I can give some advice.
Thanks for such a detailed video I'm dealing with issues with the same oven. The oven will preheat and then cycle off and will not relight. The ignitor will cycle but the burner does not come on
Hi. So the ignitor is working, but no gas comes out to start the oven? Does this happen on both the broiler and the bottom flame? In any case, you are most likely down to two things. It's either the gas control valve (where the gas input connects under the burners) or it could be the control board. I would suspect the gas valve because this is a very simple part. It works through a spring-loaded solenoid. In my case, a wire inside had broken, so the valve would never open. You could check the valve by turning the gas to the stove off, but leaving electric power on. When you turn on the oven check the voltage at the gas valve connector to see if the control board is commanding it to open. If so, the valve is bad. It's a $75 part. Just be very careful to turn off the gas when replacing the valve and seal the connections properly when you replace it.
@@mauishellcondo Thanks for the reply. The broiler works and it seems to work like on convection but not on regular bake mode. I ordered a new ignitor because it's fairly inexpensive and easy to replace. If that doesn't work I'll give the gas off test a try
@@JWG1611 Can you tell if the bottom ignitor is glowing when you put it in bake mode? If so, it's good and then it's likely the gas valve.
@@mauishellcondo Yes the ignitor cycles on and off but no flame after the initial preheat
@@mauishellcondo After replacing the ignitor the oven is back in fully working order. Thank you once again for the very informative video, and for responding to the comments
great video! question: you mentioned that replacing the broil element was pretty straightforward.. do you fix that by cutting + splicing the wires with the new element (with a ceramic wire nut)? or does that also involve opening up the top/rear panels?
Yes, for the top broiler igniter, the wires run into the back panel, so the rear panel needs to be removed. Depending on your model and the new igniter, you may have to cut the old wiring because on my model, the igniter has metal connectors attached to it. I just reused these connectors and spliced in the new wires with the supplied wire nuts. Make sure you disconnect power before opening it up.
@@mauishellcondo Thanks for confirming. I was going to cut the wires inside of the oven itself, so good tip on accessing it via the rear panel :). Any tips on moving the heavy range out? I'm able to get the door off.. how do you move your range?
@@charugauri Certainly remove the heavy iron grates from the top. This will make it lighter. Depending upon how much friction exists between the floor and oven footings, you may be able to use the big door to help you pull it out. I left the door installed and gently tugged on the door handle while it was partially open and the oven would move about an inch or so. Try that a few times and you may create enough clearance to get behind the oven to open it up. Just be gentle when tugging on the door. It's held in by those locking clasps so they are not meant to carry a heavy load. With gentle persuasion, you may get it to move.
My burners aren’t held down by those two tbit screws. They are held down by Venturi in the center. Do you know what way to turn or an easy way to get them out?
Do you have the same model? I believe mine were held by star bits (I may have said T-bits incorrectly). If you can attach a photo maybe I can give some advice.