DIY How To Make a Powerful 12V 18200mAh 420A li-ion Battery Pack
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- Опубликовано: 10 апр 2020
- 18650 li-ion Battery pack
12.6V 18.200mAh
Current 280A
Pulse current 420A
Liitokala Max 40A Pulse 60A: www.aliexpress.com/item/32822...
Battery case: www.aliexpress.com/item/40004...
Roll 10m 0.2x8x10 Nickel Strip: www.aliexpress.com/item/40000...
Spot Welding Board 12v-16.8v: www.aliexpress.com/item/40004...
Spot Welding Pen: www.aliexpress.com/item/40000...
3.7-4.2V Spot Welder: www.aliexpress.com/item/40005... 
Наука
hello guys. This battery i make 3 years ago and it's still working, for charching i use SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 charger and i don't need any BMS for this. For battery security I'm not afraid, becouse the board where i use this battery already has security board. If you don't have experiance working with li-ion battery please don't repeat this at home. Thanks
Hg
Pls answer me, if battery degrade unusually, it is possible bms problem? Or it will be 100% some 18650 dead already?
Hi! What would've happened if I was charging it in a standard way without the ballancer and connection to BMS?
@@lukaszsabinicz6415 you could potentionally overcharge an cell which can lead to an fire or an explosion
Thank you very much for your time and information, I tried the capacitor that came with the package 35v 1000uf and its seems to work great, it seems to work very good with the car battery that I got CC 550 Amps I have no complaints at all, big thumbs up.
Excellent job great vid thank you👍
Excellent Job? My foot. You say that to an uneducated person who’s totally wrong in theory and his assembly?
Do not follow this guy. He will mislead you.
This came up on my home screen and I thought why not, it cool and leaves you with a strange (purely because I did nothing but watch) completely satisfied feeling 😁
Sounds INCREDIBLY DANGEROUS… I’M IN!
🤪
Loved the way you made it; so organised and neat. Congrats 👏
I’m also interested in those homemade spot welders. Do you consider doing a video on it? It would be great 👍🏼
Finally a video where they actually know how to solder! Looks great! I neeeeeed a spot welder!
There are many Mini Spot welder on the Marked for under 100 Euros
I'm about to get set up and try mine out, it was cheap too.
Nice Time Lapse!
You are good at making some DIYs dude
I would love to see a 280 amp load test. You are high if you think you are going to flow over 100 amps through Nickle stripping that size for more than 30 seconds.
Even 10 sec :)
😂 “elementary electrical standards, bruh”
Отличная работа, а главное аккуратно.
чем он сваривает, как называется?
Clean work. I love it..
that video was so smart thats the first one that made not using a bms 4 me so easy to understand from now on i wont be using a bms thanks for that very intuative video
Ok for charging with balanced Imax, but what about discharging without BMS
Rc battery spot welder good invention. Thumb up.
Dttiktjjtjt uuyi5upogocbyfjgffjjfjfijfjfjfudjfjffhfutiittititiitgitiyiittititir rtuuttuuttuuttugit
how is the spot welder holding? is it worth buying?
Love from Assam 💕💖
Bhai, why do you LOVE an IDIOT? He is wrong in his calculations and circuits.
Hey bro moiu axomor lora
Also, make sure your connections are pure nickel, not nickel/steel as the steel used may corrode over time as 18650 battery does gas out when charging.
안녕하세요
좋은 정보 감사드립니다
잘보고 갑니다
да
Good relaxing video
4 series connections at 0.2mm nickel will safely get you 6.4A x 4 = 25.6A continuous, not 280A. Look up the Ampacity chart for nickel.
Joe, you are correct. This guy is misleading the amateurs. This guy has not learned Physics, in his life.
Thanks for pointing it out. Cheers.
@@sreekumarUSA 🤣
Now he's trying to say 420A. Jeez
But it's a 3S7P battery with 2600mah cells. At 1C he'd be getting 2.6A per string which is fine for the nickel used, but it's 18.2A in total, which is clearly too much for the little nickel tabs he's using to connect to the BMS. He should be using copper for the BMS tabs.
He's making his discharge claims on the 18650 cells alone. Each cell has max continuous discharge of 40A (7P = 280A) and pulse discharge of 60A (7P = 420A). The BMS he's using clearly states 60A @ 5:09. There's all kinds of carelessness in this video.
@@missingMBR I guess your one of those who don't want the entire film, then comment about it. At the end you can clearly see he never used the BMS, just shows us that its possible too. You see him using a balance charger at the end, because there is no bms.
Can you please make a video on The spot welder that you used in this video 😄
Please make a video on spot welder
Agreed! Need to know about the spot welder!
Yes spot welder making and circuit please
It's on Amazon. Like 20€
..ehh ?!? Why no reaction..yes i like his work..but for someone buil a battery for first time he run the video a bit too fast..im tired after video pauses, and almost 2 hours work on this battery..first coffeeee ;)
Super creativ!
Nice video!
🎵🎶
Thanks share!
👍🛠Like🔋👍
Why did I just watch this whole video? 😂 Nice music!
if all the 21 cells are connected in parallel even then it can give a continuous current of
2×21 = 42 Ampere ( MAXIMUM )
not 420 Ampere
&
even then
the voltage will be 3.7 V nominal ( between 3.0 & 4.2 V )
That's assuming the cells have a discharge rate of 2A. There are 18650s on the market that can output 30A continuous, and as he wired those 21 cells in a 3s 7p configuration, that would make the equation 30x7 = 210A continuous. That's still not 280A, and I doubt he's using those exact cells, but it had to be said.
This video shows me that buying a bettery is better than creating one 😂
Hay lắm Bro!
Nice video, thanks :)
Ooo great idea👍
Why dont you make a video about your spot welders how to use and which is good for which type of battery??? And so on.....
InTV TV
@@danielpeter6407 Spot welder is available on Ebay.
Buy a kweld and be done. Way more powerful than this.
@Random BIFRC Spotwelder
Excellent keep going
THIS IS A DANGEROUS TUTORIAL.
If you draw 280 amps, or 40 amps per cell, or even 420 amps at most or 60 amps per cell, I hope you run really fast
If there are 10C and even 20C cells, you can draw 40 amps out of it and it will be fine
@@oprisvlad3102 but the 18650-s can handle 10 amps a pop. So 70 amps total, with peaks of 140 amps. And with the best cells you can get 20 amps per cell continuous, 30 amps peak so 210 amps.
@@VizTech3 both comments are valid, however there's no way that nickel can handle 210amps!
@@treveansalt Correct :) the nickel will handle like 60-70 amps in my experience(0.15mm)
@@VizTech3 so what’s the best way to improve it? Like how could I create a lithium ion battery for a motorcycle starter battery ? Or would you be heavier than lead acid at that point ?
I think you should also choose 18650 batteries on the basis of their similar internal resistances as well (besides rated & measured capacities). As some batteries might be failing by having high internal resistance. 🤔😕
Yes if high discharge is what you're going for but these are Liito Kala cells and their ratings are pure bullshit
@@ericklein5097 Aaah... 🤔😄🖒
@@davidbolha I have an open invitation for anyone to post a Liito Kala cell that performs better than the P42A discharge on my channel. Shit I'll even take a 32700 Liito Kala cell to go up against a 21700. Let's see the IR or voltage drop
This battery would work to power that mini spot welder right? Anything 12 volts around 400 amps is what's recommended. I got a car battery to build it with, but I want to build something smaller to power it.
Some narration is much more helpful than music.
I liked it very much. Your level of work and instruments- nowhere less than japanese and western guys.
Uppena movie
ALL wires must have mechanical connection together before soldering and heat shrink tubing. Twist bare wires together first, then solder. This helps you not to have cold solder joints and have a possible short or open circuit. Use a buck/boost converter for different voltages. It can be affixed to case externally or internally if you have the room. No special tape or paper insulation needed - use cardboard/pasteboard and hot glue to isolate and hold down battery. Leave top glued at spots with hot glue so you can open battery box to make changes if needed.
nerd
Great video!
Excellent c’est très bien merci beaucoup
Ye Spot welder ka video banao i need this
小朋友…记得保重身体咯~ 恭喜你发大财…！
Y
Soundtrack is ON POINT, sometimes I like to binge watch this videos to fall asleep and the music is coming in clutch also very very interesting video
Nice works!
Looks great, but be aware of that series connection you made using just nickel strip. It will not support the full current of the battery, or anywhere near it.
Should of ran that negative wore all the way to the battery instead of that extra strip he made
Which is exactly why on another site I read about using multiple stirps. You need to calculate the cross sectional area of each strip of nickel and compare that to the area of standard wire conductors then find out how many amps the conductors are rated for. Nothing wrong with going to a higher rated conductor either.
High quality job....keep doing and showing US.
Thanks
@@ARMTechHomemade can use for ups dear admin?
B-e-a-Utiful!
Nice job! What is the cleaning flux in the syringe you are using?
i think its chineese flux. amtech fluxs are not than liquid and clean.
Отличное видео лайк 👍👍👍
I urge you to change the title and description of this video because even if the cells can handle 40A continuous and 60A pulse (which I doubt because for 18650's that is extremely high!) then your nickel strips would literally melt way before those current numbers are even reached. What you are claiming is dangerous and viewers without much knowledge will hook this pack up to their car, thinking that it would work. The pack will definitely fail and a fully charged li-ion pack that fails is extremely dangerous!
Not only talk about the fact that the nickel stripe is not able to support such amp draw. Basically between 5 to 10 amp per layer of nickel stripe. That is why copper bus are used to fully support higher amp draw
Thank you for pointing this out. I still can't believe we haven't had an update about it blowing up. Not only is that but the battery series is completely absurd. You can't jump circuit the chain of positives over to negative and then back again. That creates a short. This is the worst case of DC in series and parallel I've came across with besides the guy that does this stuff that blows up on purpose.
@@jeremytalkingeverything I made a slight typo in my comment, I accidentally switched 3s7p and 7s3p around. He did make a 12V 18.2Ah pack, but the warning about the current load is still very much valid. The nickel strips can't handle the current and 40A continuous on those cells would surely cause problems. I however don't see a problem with his circuit wiring? He first welded up the parallel strips, connecting all the positives and negatives of the cells to create parallel columns and then he created a series chain with them by snaking around from + to - to +, creating a 3s chain. What I don't get is why he used so little nickel to create the series connections (ballpark is to use at least 1 strip per cell in both parallel and series connections). The pack definitely works, just not with the advertised current draw.
Yep, also bms only on 60A))) Also I dont beleive on "Liitokala" gives true ampers))
@@jhonny44444 If he doubled the layer of nickel strips or even tripple layered, and spot welded each layer well enough, would this work? Would option #2, soldering a bare braided copper wire on top of the nickel strip to help carry the load?
From the looks of it you are using Sony/Murata VTC5 cells, they have a capacity of 2600mah and a max continuous discharge rate of 20A so really the max current you can continuously draw is about 140A, that is still a lot but nowhere near the 420A. If your cells really could do 420A together then your capacity wouldn’t be 18,200mah, it would be lower. Other than that, great video!
Best quality job
Bro where did u get that spot welder, did you made it or is it available online??
No responde el guey
The outgoing terminals are rated only 20-40A
But what if you accidentally touch with something to it ? This build is extremely dangerous !!!
@@inanc64 Every build has risk, it's power so don't drop the scalpel.
Браво!)
Very informative.
What is this spot welding machine used ? Please let me know
It is a BIFRC Spot welder. You can Google it.
You could always read the VIDEO DESCRIPTION, rather than being lazy.
@@johncoops6897 Exact-a-Mundo
Congratulations on your videos, I would like to know if in the realization of the spot welder, instead of the LiPo, it is possible to use a power supply.
Yes of course. The lipo pack used is a 3s pack, so ~12.6 volts DC at max charge. Find any dc power supply capable of supplying 12vdc at ~100 amps and connect it to the spot welder. Now you see why most use a high C rated lipo or 12v car battery instead. They can supply high peak current.
@@aaronschroeder483 100A wouldn't be enough. You'd need 200-300A
@@ericklein5097 this is true. I should have updated my original comment, but forgot about it as it’s been 2 years now. Most power supplies have built in short circuit protection as well that you would have to figure out how to bypass. Using the power supply to keep a lipo charged up would be a better solution but more involved (bms would be needed).
Hola muy bueno el video, tengo un proyecto de fabricar una batería como esta. Como te han funcionado las celdas, dicen originales funcionan bien o son falsas y de menos mA. Saludos
Very good tutorial... Tq
Where can i find the manual for this spot welder?
Welder is available on Ebay
Чётко, аккуратно, мощно молодец
Что за контактная сварка у него? Может подскажешь какую можно купить на алике? Спасибо.
@@valxis1 h irjrn
@@valxis1 ktkcc
Halo Teman
Salam Kenal , saya lihat video Anda sangat suka sekali , anda memang orang yang kreatif membuat accu sendiri , terimakasih ilmunya saya akan mencoba nya
Verry Good 👍
Those are rebranded Sony VCT5A that have a 25A continuous discharge rate. There is no way that battery will put out 280A continuous and 420A pulse. Four 0.2mm nickel strips between series connection are not going to handle those amps. I will estimate under 100A. Plus the batteries will not be able to put out that many amps.
Exactly what I was thinking. No where near enough conductor.
I use .008" laser cut nickel plated copper in a pattern that maximizes cross sectional conductor area. Samusung 40Ts 7-14s 5p. Conductor area is equal to about 5awg copper wire. I rate it at 200amps continuous 350 burst.
I was thinking similar,
I'd love to see him trying to put a 280A load followed by (if anything left) a 420A burst on to it.
It would have been a good video if he was truthful with the result.
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if you want to charge the phone and start the car, use A123 lifepo4 :)
@@zachniedfeldt You mean copper plate?
That lipo is rated for 5000mah or 5amps x60C = 300Amps which gets closer to 420A as you stated but there is no way those 18650 will put out 280A especially over those .2 mm nickel strips. Those might do 20A on a good day in short bursts with out melting them but you only have 4 linking the strings together. That's a max of 80A. Which is still impressive for a small battery pack and it is a nice build. However those 40A 18650 are also way over rated at 40A. Do an actual load test on one of those and see...
You seem to know a lot about this kind of thing. I have a 9 ah SLA battery right now. If I build one of these do I need a certain kind of charger or can I continue to use the charger I have now?
@@SVMSICE The short answer is this is a long answer and I don't even know the question. SLA and li-on are apples and oranges apart. First, SLA is not a good choice for anything that that needs drained and re-charged. LA Batteries in cars have a lot of cranking amps but are only made to be used momentarily until the engine starts. Draining them reduces their life greatly. Deep cycle SLA are made to be more drained as in for boat or trolling motor use but still do not have the capacity to be charged anywhere near what a li-on can be. Plus there is weight. So my first question is what are you trying to build? What is your target voltage and amps? And what are you putting it in?
@@jamescole6846 12 volt used for an underwater camera and screen also for use in a Vexilar sonar. So they will be drained and recharged.
@@SVMSICE amps needed? Hours of use? This doesn't seem complicated. Have you look at lipo's? You need the numbers before you can calculate a solution.
@@jamescole6846 ok I’ve been doing a lot more looking into this and yeah I’m a newbie so I wasn’t clear on a lot of things. I’m a lot more familiar now with types of 18650 batteries. I see why you couldn’t answer. So what would you suggest battery wise (18650) to make a 12 volt like his, same case, that’s going to get used half dozen or more times a year? It will probably come close to draining the batteries after usage. Well actually I’m not sure if it would come close to draining it with this type of battery but it comes close to draining my 12 volt SLA battery I’m using right now. That’s why I was think about building one of these versus buying one of these because I like to try new projects like this.
How are you tack soldering those batteries together? Nickel strips ?
Maybe watch the video?!
Nice video @
that was relaxing to watch
Well shown building process! Three remarks: First. The cells seem to have quite different voltages. For safety normally you would first (dis)charge all cells to storage voltage (3.6-3.8 volt). Second: I like the casing. Would it not be easier to turn the upper part (cap) 180 degrees and use a longervthick red and black power cable towards the outer connectors? Now you have to fold two stiff thick wires to close the cap. Third: You glue the cap of the casing to the lower part. To open it you will probably have to destroy the casing. Why not use a good piece of self adhesive tape? Greetings Gerard
Its DIY not a business or commercial product.
@@exlenisupporter457 Commercial product would not be servicable.
Cool stuff I have a bunch of 18650 Layin around from when I used to Vape.
I wonder if I could take all the married pairs I have an make some little power banks for led lights on my mountain model for RC crawling.
I wish their was a voice over for the important bits as one wrong move/connection can be really bad.
If you’d ever make another battery pack video it be great too see how to make a smaller battery that could be used to hook up lights on a model. I used a standard 3 wire RC servo for led lighting around the model is what’s in my head but no idea how to power it.
I’m thinking as in RC lighting usually is a 7.2 V Li-Ion battery id like to use 2 18650’s in series for a pack that could be hooked up too 2 sets of LED’s for each battery pack as I get confused when soldering lots of wires together for one power source.
Thanks if my rambling made sense I really appreciate the help
Cheers 🍻
Đam mê sáng tạo, rất hữu ích
Nice job
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Z
I think you should balance the voltage before combining them in paralel.just for extra safety and extend battery life
Batteries in Parallel are ALWAYS balanced... from the moment that you connect them.
@@johncoops6897 That's what he means. If you just grab loose cells and weld them together, the charged cells will exceed rated discharge trying to bring the uncharged cells up. In addition, the uncharged cells will exceed maximum charge rate by several times. If they are tool cells, the amperage could be high enough to melt the nickel strip and/or loosen the welds.
@@johncoops6897 He means the parallel grouups. We got 3.8, 3.8 and 4
I am thinking that even after I got good at making those (and it was my speciality,I was an auto mechanic) I am certain 3 hrs. I may be surprised at perhaps a bit more time. There is a popular battery powered solid state guitar amp (excellent preamp/amp design) that runs around off of a 20ah 12V lead acid battery. There is interest in a lithium/ion upgrade. I could assemble the battery packs at perhaps net 15.00 per hour? Replacement lead acid is only 20.00 off Amazon and it being solid state the amp runs a long time off of the 20ah batt.
Could the the soldering joint support such high current ,for example engine startup current?
20 банок по 200 рублей за штуку это сколько денех? А если брать хорошие аккумуляторы? оно того стОит?
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Это без БМС ?
Зарядное устройство само является БМС ?
Да
Fantastic
if i connect this battery it works connected to a solar panel with 30A controller?
only thing I would change is the power cable, too thin for high load ... sure it depends about what you connect it to...but still...too thin for my businesz
Always go by the maximum output of the power source and not the load that is expected to be placed on the source, battery or AC line. If the power source does become shorted, at least your battery links will not be fried, which is the best reason for the battery to use a fuse directly from the positive terminal to the load as close to the battery as possible.
The power cable would be able to handle about TEN TIMES more current than the nickel strips he's used inside. There is no way in the world that the cable will even get warm if the pack is short circuited.
Без каких-либо защит. Для себя устройство полезное, для массового использования, небезопасно)
BMS
Hi , which battery pack you used for that spot welding?? What is current output for that battery pack used with spot welding Machine
great job , keep moving
чТО за сварка? Есть схема.
I will try to make it
Thanks, I was search about balancer cable and found your project is so good. Blessings.
Perfect !
That's not 12v, it's 11.1v . 12v is from 10v to 14.4v due to use cases. This stops charging at 12.6v, so a real 12v pack is actually a 16.8v fully charged.
I would personally say 3S is closer to 12V than 4S. Using the latter, it stops charging at 12.6V, with a nominal of 11.1V. Most 12V devices should be able to run on 11.1V just fine.
4S means that 12V (or 10V, depending on the cut off you choose) is the minimum voltage, and the maximum voltage is 16.8V. 16.8V is likely too high for most 12V devices and might cause damage.
The only way to get a true 12V pack is to either use LiFe cells (or LiFePO4), which are 3.2V nominal (4 x 3.2 = 12.8V nominal) or to use a buck/boost regulator, to provide a constant 12V.
Fuldstændigt suverent❤️❤️❤️❤️🏁🇩🇰 prof
I like this ❤
Nice brother 👍
This had to have cost at least $100, probably more like $150.
Yep when you can buy a 20.000 battery bank. Good one I mean top spec for 60 dollars
mate can you help me .. i got an e-scooter with 15.300mah (15,3Ah) battery.. that would be about 6 x 18650 or ? i want to build an extended battery for more range :)
hey, the voltage must stay the same. the Amps/hour is what you want to increase. so you just build an pack with the same amount of voltage, but more batteries in parallel.
You need a spot welder to make a spot welder ,How classic 🤣🤣🤣
Nah you need two spot welders... Dude was flexing his nerd hard.
Thanks guy!
Forget the battery I want that spot welder how do I make it or where do I buy it.
How much did you spent??
Seems you know what you are doing. hehehe. Great job. Cheers from Brazil
Nice..balance port. so you charging with lipo blance charging mode.. same, i never use BMS. Last 2 and half year for mini my power station. Keep it up.
Where are the BMS? Or you need’t it? Do you take care of the battery safety? It will be very dangerous!
This type of battery layout is without bms. To load this type you have to take a loader for rc batteries like ISDT Q8 or similar, whitch take care of the balance of the cells. Therefor is the white plug btw.