Motorcraft 2100/2150 Carburetor: Power Valve Issues FIXED [NO MORE LEAKS!!]
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- Опубликовано: 16 июл 2024
- In this video I detail the process of ensuring that your new power valve gasket doesn't leak and that your replacement service goes smoothly and allows for reliable function for several years.
Products used:
Form-a-gasket: www.amazon.com/Permatex-80016...
Lithium grease: www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345... 
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I just rebuilt my 2100 carburetor and right away I had a horrible shaking and bad idling. I suspected it was the power valve-I found out that the gasket in the rebuild kit is not thick enough and there was lot of clearance between the valve surface and the carb body. So, I used an additional gasket and the problem was solved. But after watching your video, I am going to improve the valve installation even though I may still need to use two gaskets.Great instructional video!
God, ive been chasing a gremlin trying to figure out what was wrong with my Tbird surging and running bad despite having rebuilt the engine and fixed all of the other issues. This makes so much sense.
Oh definitely, power valve issues can be very confusing to diagnose! Check out my updated video for an even more surefire permanent fix: ruclips.net/video/iHHhrKv5mCc/видео.html
Well spoken, very clear on advice. Awesome video, why does this not have more views??
Brilliant - your discovery and solution applies to any number of otherwise unexplainable automotive fuel, oil and coolant leaks, especially related to synthetic oils! Thank You!
I've spent 2 weeks researching rebuilding my 2100, did it the other day, now I find your video and you're the only one who suggests any form of sealer on any of the gaskets!!
Thumbed up and subscribed! Thank you so much for this, I kept tightening the air fuel needled to get it leaner, but it was this problem exactly! Thanks again -1967 Caliente
Thank you for the information. Very helpful.
Thank you man! You saved me hundreds of dollars in spare parts.
...and my weekend
Alessandro Rodaro Hey man, that's great! I'm glad to have been able to help you. This issue was a head-scratcher for sure!
Thanks for the great video! This is exactly what we have talked about for years. Some will say its all about the float level. These will leak big and just act like the engine is on its last leg with really stinky exhaust or... they will leak just a drip every few seconds and cause the engine to jump every time it drips. So often you pull the carburetor and take it all back apart and it stops or, it get worse. Good call on the permatex. I had no idea it is gas resistant.
Thanks so much for this info. I am about to rebuilt my 2150 and especially suspect of the power value. You have explained very well.
Hey man. I'm glad you found my video helpful! But I think you should also check out my updated video with an even better remedy for a leaking power valve gasket: ruclips.net/video/iHHhrKv5mCc/видео.html
As well as my video on the power valve diagnostic process: ruclips.net/video/1bYVWJul3z8/видео.html
Wow good info, seeing is truly be-leaving some you just set back and study the hole picture. Your right about the new felt gaskets they seem to be so sensitive,.
Great video. Just rebuilt a 2100. Very helpful.
Thanks so much for this info, I have an old scout that is flooding and black smoking no matter what I do, I've been leaning towards this power valve ,will definitely try and see what happens
Was getting ready to start tearing down my freshly rebuilt carb after its first drive. Start it up and fuel just starts pouring out of the vent tube. Going to check the valve gasket next. Thanks for that!
I'm glad my video could help you! Another thing I'd also double check is that your needle valve is functioning correctly and that your float level is set properly. Good luck and hopefully when you get everything back together you've got no more leaks!
ctuan13 Yeah, that's the first thing I'm checking. Truck ran great after the rebuild till I did my first pull on the interstate and it just started flooding and could hear the fuel boiling when I shut it off. Let it cool, start it back up and fuel is dumping out the vent. Definitely thanks for the video. One more thing not to overlook
Excellent video. When I installed mine it leaked so bad that the engine wouldn't idle and the float bowl would just drain right out into the manifold. I changed power valves and the same thing happened. Thought I was being careful with the gasket alignment but apparently not.
Well crap I just replaced mine yesterday and received a round gasket with it but I did get it centered. Unfortunately I should've watched this first because I didn't use anything on the gasket. No vacuum on PV though, I changed mine because of lack of fuel in the bowl and gas soaked gaskets that mate the carb to intake.
Thanks for the video!
WOW just rebuilt mine. Wish I would have watched this video first.!!!!!
WOW! you just solved a huge question, as to why was this 1970 351C carb leaking out the bottom. Just did a complete rebuild for the customer, but it would have come back again.
JT
Orlando, fl
I’m glad you found my video helpful! I’ve actually found a much more permanent solution as I discovered after a few months the gasket dressing would still disintegrate with fuel washing. Check out my updated video, here: ruclips.net/video/iHHhrKv5mCc/видео.html
Good info, I'm about to rebuild one of these on my eagle. Never rebuilt a carb before.
Thanks . I just changed the power valve (válvula de enriquecimiento) and I think the problem was the gasket. I'm gonna try your method. Thanks again.
Hey man, I've actually got an updated and revised method that you should check out, since I later found I would often still have issues with this method. Check out my updated video, here: ruclips.net/video/iHHhrKv5mCc/видео.html
Makes a big difference, thanks!
There's a torque value for a power valve believe it or not, higher than one might think. 100 inch lbs. They tend to loosen over time with heat cycling. Good video.
I also had this issue. The gasket should be made of a different material. Here is what i had better success with, that gasket needs to be compressed to the point that the porous material can't allow gas to seep thru, meaning you really have to tighten it much tighter than this video suggests.
Great Info
Excellent video. I'll try this because after a week of not turning the engine on (thanks corona)the fuel bowl is dry. I'll also put this gasket maker on the gasket that goes with the cap.
Well after a week, it's not abnormal for all the fuel to evaporate out of the bowl. After all, it is open to the atmosphere through the vents. But you can always add some gasket dressing to the lid gasket to see if it helps.
EXCELLENT SUGGESTION RE: USING SILICONE SEALERS ON THE OUTER AND INNER EDGES OF THE POWER VALVE GASKET. THE USE OF LITHIUM GREASE ON THE CARB FACING SIDE OF THE GASKET ALSO MAKES SENSE.
You told me the story of my life!! I totally had gas in that vaccuum line, and I've been wondering why afr will go as low as 12 idling, and then ping the gauge when i touch the throttle.
Yeah it's definitely such a frustrating issue. Check out my updated video on solving this power enrichment circuit leak:
ruclips.net/video/iHHhrKv5mCc/видео.html
I have a 73 Galaxy 500 with the 400ci. Was having a problem I would have sworn was vapor lock. Going down the road it would start to spit and sputter and then just quit. As soon as it would cool off for an hour or so, it would start right back up. Turned out to be the power valve.
Man I have been fighting mine for a few days now ur video saved me I thought I was losing my mind! But there's two companies that make the rebuild/gasket kit. Walker & GP Sorensen DONT GET THE WALKER. the GP has much studer gaskets for the same price no trouble since I made the switch
Hey man, I'm glad I could help! I've actually got a new video in the works about by far the most permanent solution I've come up with, which is the use of a viton o-ring in place of a gasket entirely!
@@ctuan13 man I'm still having alot of trouble I think my gasket is still leaking I can't seem to find a viton o ring? Is that a type of material or a brand? Where did u find one Auto parts, hardware, plumbing or plumbing store?
@@phantomleafblowing2741 It's a fuel resistant material, that's also used to make the tip of the needle in the needle and seat.
You can find them very easily on amazon. This is the kit I went with that has a multitude of sizes: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N8ZLHQO/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537124780&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
I've been fighting with my 2100 since I moved from a sea-level town to 4600 feet above. I stepped down jets four sizes and reformed a bent accelerator valve that was pumping too soon. Big improvement but still a half to full throttle hiccup. Took the top off and float out, looking for dirt, maybe. Saw tiny bubbles coming from the power valve at the bowl bottom. Searched through my Sorenson kit until I found the correct gasket and a new valve. I think I skipped the valve swap during a hurried rebuild and likely the gasket distorted or failed. Mystery solved. Thanks thanks thanks!!!
Hey man, glad you've got your carb performing correctly again! What car and what engine?
'65 Mustang 2+2 /289 completely stock with C5ZZ 2100. I have 2100's from a '64 Fairlane 260 and a '67 Fairlane 289 and I can tell I used the 2-stage gasket on the '67. This explains why it ran poorly after rebuild, as the gasket blocked the vent holes. The C5ZZ was then installed and worked OK until the leak. New valve and gasket are on order. I looked back at the instruction sheets from several kits and they show the triangular-center gasket in the diagram so I used it. The correct gasket was still with the kit. It would have been helpful if they had specified one or the other. As Bill Nye says, "NOW YOU KNOW!"
@@jimhunter4880 Hey that's awesome, I hope your mustang runs better!
I just fixed this last night on my sons f100, was running so rich that it would have to be WOT to even fire.
Oh wow that's pretty bad! Well I'm glad you were able to fix it! Hopefully you found my video helpful!
@@ctuan13 lol I actually found your video after I fixed the issue by looking at the service manual 5 times over of the breakdown on the carb 🤦♂️
Holy crap, you solved my problem, F-Napa
Dang. I just did my very first carb rebuild. All proud of myself. 2150. Wont be going on yet due to have to get an offy intake for the 300. But... guess I should take this off and do this part. heh. idk. New to carbs.
Jamie Burke Hey man, congrats on your first rebuild. You honestly couldn't have picked an easier carb to rebuild and learn on.
But yes, I would definitely address this. I will actually be coming out with a video on a revised method as I've found the form-a-gasket doesn't stand up to fuel long term.
Do the same thing as I demonstrate in my video, except substitute in Permatex Permashield Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing. You should have great results 👌🏼
Cool man. Thanks. Yeah got the carb from the junkyard, she was nasty looking. Then ordered kit from Mikes. He seemed popular. Now she looks frik'n brand new and shiny.
Great video! I have a question. My power valve has a flat surface and not a male protrusion. What is the difference?
My 79 continental mark 5 takes 5 pumps now to start
do you have any of the viton o rings for the power valves available for sale? id assume places make u buy them in bulk?, I love to get one
Also, where can you find info on the carb to see which rebuild kit to order? Does putting on sealant also apply to the accelerater pump? Thanks.
Hello. I have a MC 2100 on my cj5 jeep with a 258 engine. The metal tag is off. It was a rebuilt. How do you know if you have a 1 stage or 2 stage power valve? Thanks.
Thank you for this video. After two rebuilds, I think this is a problem I have. Adjusting the air/fuel screws seems to do nothing. I am also having surging at idle.....at speed all seems fine. Could this be a contributing factor as well? Any advise would be much appreciated.
A surging at idle, it could be, but that is far more likely to be an issue in the actual idle circuit, I'd make sure you blow out those passages as best you can.
As for the power valve gasket issue, check out my updated video here for what I've found to be the best permanent fix. ruclips.net/video/iHHhrKv5mCc/видео.html
What I used was a red oring that fixed my 2100
What kind and brand of O-ring?
Mine runs great driving down the road but as soon as you take your foot off the gas it dies like it's not getting idle gas it's a 4 speed any ideas
So I'm guessing this is also applicable to the 1100 with the spark control valve? Had poor performance, found a vacuum leak at the SCV, changed the gasket and it was okay for a while and now it's getting worse again.
Thank you for making this video, it did help me isolate part of my issue. Now that I have the engine idling perfectly after replacing the power valve, I can't get any throttle. When I just barely touch the accelerator to give it gas it sputters and dies. Any suggestions? Timing is spot on, each air fuel mixture is adjusted perfectly for a 700 rpm idle.
PCHelp76180 Hmmm, interesting issue. What engine, vehicle and year? It could be a bad accelerator pump or pump check valve, bad fuel pump or bad ignition component like coil or ICM (Ignition Control Module).
it's a 69 390, F100. HEI ignition has all new parts (went through it when I was trying to troubleshoot the carb). The electric fuel pump has a good 3 psi. The history is it gradually kept running poorly to the point that it wouldn't idle. I was loaned a 2100 off a 74 just to trouble shoot it and the engine started and ran and accelerated perfectly. I keep thinking it's leaking air at the power valve or its maybe got a vacuum leak. BTW, this carb has been dipped and sonic washed then rebuilt.
Hmm well even new ignition components can be bad, I had a coil that was bad out of the box. But with an HEI it's got electronic ignition, right? Also 3 PSI? That sounds a bit low. Ideally you want around 5 - 8 PSI. Could also be a vacuum leak. To check for a vacuum leak, with a cold engine, let it idle and spray carb cleaner or water around any seals, gaskets or vacuum connections and if you notice any change in RPM, there's a leak in that location.
I'll try these out and get back with you
Sounds good! Again, first thing I'd try is to bump up that fuel pressure a bit and see if things improve. Then hook up a vacuum gauge and see what you're reading at idle.
I use a red o ring on my ford truck f100
May not necessarily be thee integrity of the gasket but more so the ethanol used in today's fuel. However contrary to my statement.... Manufacturers should take this into consideration and reformulate these gaskets for today's "fuel"!
it's not the gasket. I have to say it's the modern gas formula and all those additives they use now on days 👍👍👍
You also have to make sure the surface is flat
What was your car doing? Was it hesitating or just running rough? Im curious what symptoms this gasket fix cured.
In my case the only way the engine would run was with the gas pedal all the way to the floor so it was just dumping gas into the intake. When shut off the float bowl would empty out in about 20 secs.
How come thay can't make a gasket don't leak tell me that
Checked all permatex. None of it is fuel resistant. I just coated the whole gasket in fuel resistant thread sealer. Will see how that goes...
They do have a fuel resistant gasket dressing which I tried but that actually also eventually failed.
I will be making an updated video soon about how I found viton o rings to be the best solution to modern leaky carb gaskets 👌🏼
I stopped mine from leaking with a plastic washer
Is Moly Lube the same as White Lithium grease?
No, but that should work just fine as well!
I use a rubber o-ring inside of a copper washer stop it
Why not use a comparable O-ring then?
Actually, in my updated fix video, that's essentially the technique I found works best! Check it out here: ruclips.net/video/iHHhrKv5mCc/видео.html
Pure unadulterated BS