Thank you. I had the exact same problem with fuel leaking from the power valve. This helped me look into that and indeed replacing the power valve and gasket (which I think was the primary problem with mine) solved everything. So happy I found this post rather than just purchase a very expensive rebuilt carburetor. My vehicle runs perfectly once again. Good job and much appreciation for the post!
Had a 304 amc with the 2150 carb. Ran like crap until I looked up the adjustment procedure online. I can't remember for sure but I think u turned in both mixture screws to the seat and backed them out 3/4 or 1-1/2 turn. It was your basic first adjustment. Ran like a dream ever since. I do think your power valve may be leaking. That being said; I always had a dry engine I had to prime before I did the mixture screw adjustment. Runs great and starts now.Good luck my genius friend!!!
If you turn in the mixture screws and the engine stumbles your power valve is NOT blown. If you have both screws ALL THE WAY clockwise and the engines didn't drop RPM's then the power valve needs replaced.
I believe the spring goes between the carb bowl and pump diaphragm, I always reuse the pump shaft, the little red one way valve is crucial, looks like an umbrella, I believe it comes with the rebuild kit, not the replacement gasket tho. You need to be sure to put the pump rod back in the holes it came from to function correctly. I've rarely ever looked at the tags, mine were either absent or illegible.
It's the accelerator pump, the fuel eventually erodes them, that plunger device on the front of that carburetor is the accelerator pump, get a replacement from the parts store, it's just a rubber plunger that goes inside that piece retained by 4 screws.
I think many of you are missing a crucial piece of information to quickly diagnose it as needle and float issues. This is what I know about the 2150 carbs when the needle and float are a problem. First let me state that on the 2100 and 2150 carbs have a bowl gasket that separates the free flow of fuel into the engine and unless there is a break in that gasket between the carb bowl and venturi fuel can't freely flow into the engine. Now if it was the needle and float there are 1 or 2 vent tubes that allow the fuel to flow out if there is a needle and seat and float problem. 1 of the vents sits inside the air filter housing the other is right on top of the bowl. From recent experience if you have a needle and float problem you will have gas all over your engine and carb that is where you will see the problem first during running not with it turned off. So, though I'm not a carb expert and myself intimidated by these things logic would then tell you that the issue is 1 of 2 things left in that area and that is the accelerator pump diaphragm or power valve. Unless as indicated by another person here a crack in the carb you can likely rule this out unless you dropped it at sometime during a rebuild process. What brings me to my answer is that I had recent issues with a needle and float after fixing this it turned cold 12/30/2016 and drove it about 10 miles to where I was going got out smelled fuel and there was fuel on the carb by the throttle cam on the carb riser near intake. I then had to leave about a hour later and it was hard to start. Went to hardware store in their parking lot same thing. Went to back to where I was the first time and looked in my carb and it was wet inside all while engine was off however no fuel had come out of the vent tubes on the carb so that rules out needle and float issues instantly. If you see that I'm missing another possible issue please reply with new insight so I can know what to fix rather than guessing at things that can cause mine to be doing this but for now logic tells me that its a power valve or accelerator pump.
That's physically impossible. The 2100 and 2150's have the fuel entry way up high, if the needle was bad, the fuel level would drop 2mm at the most. What COULD happen in the scenario you depicted is, the fuel pump would overfill the bowl, and fuel would spill into the boosters. He might have a culmination of problems, but he is on the right track with the PV. It is a known culprit on these carbs. Causing hard starts, extended cranks, and overly rich idle conditions.
You have likely found the problem. Those type of power valves do fail exactly as you describe. The rubber diaphragm ruptures, and since there is gas on top and the bottom is connected to intake manifold vacuum, the gas just pours into the intake manifold. Might as well change the throttle pump diaphragm while you are at it because if it leaks it will spew gas all over the engine, causing a fire hazard. If the carb looks clean you could probably get by without replacing all of the other stuff.
You will have to remove the carb and look under it. You will see two horns or caped off tips below the bowel. Take epoxy glue sold at any auto parts store and mix the glue together on a card board and then coat the two caps and let sit over night. Your fuel is leaking at the two tips.
I'm having similar issue before and after rebuilt Carb on 22R Toyota, Fuel is draining out of float bowl area, but seems to stop draining near 60% full. Power value seemed fine, not stuck, but is 30 years old.
power valve , bad accelerator pump , or a cracked carb body , if you have the whole kit , just put the whole kit in it , and check for cracks , and it should be fine after that ...
Seems to me there is a hairline crack inside the venturi or somewhere you can't see very well. That will make it get way too much fuel while it's running and make it run like shit.
all the time and money you're spending on this carb you could just get a new one and save urself a big head ache......im having issues with mine trying to die out when i give it gas.....i have a 1967 ford f100 it has a 352 in it with a 2100 2 barrel carb...it is a motorcraft
Fataliac It's always been a strange quirk of my carb, for as long as I've had it...17 years...(could indicate another problem of course...but have some common sense, watch for overflow)
![Motorcraft 2100/2150 Carburetor: Power Valve Issues FIXED [NO MORE LEAKS!!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/waNW-lm5Q6o/mqdefault.jpg)
![HOW TO: Power Valve Gasket Leak Permanent Fix [MOTORCRAFT 2150/2100]](/img/1.gif)
Once I finished completely rebuilding the carb it ran great and is still working fine today.
Thank you. I had the exact same problem with fuel leaking from the power valve. This helped me look into that and indeed replacing the power valve and gasket (which I think was the primary problem with mine) solved everything. So happy I found this post rather than just purchase a very expensive rebuilt carburetor. My vehicle runs perfectly once again. Good job and much appreciation for the post!
The power valve, being on the bottom would certainly have gravity as a factor as far as being the culprit.
Had a 304 amc with the 2150 carb. Ran like crap until I looked up the adjustment procedure online. I can't remember for sure but I think u turned in both mixture screws to the seat and backed them out 3/4 or 1-1/2 turn. It was your basic first adjustment. Ran like a dream ever since. I do think your power valve may be leaking. That being said; I always had a dry engine I had to prime before I did the mixture screw adjustment. Runs great and starts now.Good luck my genius friend!!!
If you turn in the mixture screws and the engine stumbles your power valve is NOT blown. If you have both screws ALL THE WAY clockwise and the engines didn't drop RPM's then the power valve needs replaced.
I believe the spring goes between the carb bowl and pump diaphragm, I always reuse the pump shaft, the little red one way valve is crucial, looks like an umbrella, I believe it comes with the rebuild kit, not the replacement gasket tho. You need to be sure to put the pump rod back in the holes it came from to function correctly. I've rarely ever looked at the tags, mine were either absent or illegible.
It's the accelerator pump, the fuel eventually erodes them, that plunger device on the front of that carburetor is the accelerator pump, get a replacement from the parts store, it's just a rubber plunger that goes inside that piece retained by 4 screws.
Thankyou you just helped me to identify the power valve was damage on my brothers,s Econiline 350
I have a 83 club wagon that stalls randomly. Hills seem to be it's kryptonite and some times it doesn't get spark.
I think many of you are missing a crucial piece of information to quickly diagnose it as needle and float issues.
This is what I know about the 2150 carbs when the needle and float are a problem. First let me state that on the 2100 and 2150 carbs have a bowl gasket that separates the free flow of fuel into the engine and unless there is a break in that gasket between the carb bowl and venturi fuel can't freely flow into the engine.
Now if it was the needle and float there are 1 or 2 vent tubes that allow the fuel to flow out if there is a needle and seat and float problem. 1 of the vents sits inside the air filter housing the other is right on top of the bowl. From recent experience if you have a needle and float problem you will have gas all over your engine and carb that is where you will see the problem first during running not with it turned off.
So, though I'm not a carb expert and myself intimidated by these things logic would then tell you that the issue is 1 of 2 things left in that area and that is the accelerator pump diaphragm or power valve.
Unless as indicated by another person here a crack in the carb you can likely rule this out unless you dropped it at sometime during a rebuild process.
What brings me to my answer is that I had recent issues with a needle and float after fixing this it turned cold 12/30/2016 and drove it about 10 miles to where I was going got out smelled fuel and there was fuel on the carb by the throttle cam on the carb riser near intake.
I then had to leave about a hour later and it was hard to start. Went to hardware store in their parking lot same thing. Went to back to where I was the first time and looked in my carb and it was wet inside all while engine was off however no fuel had come out of the vent tubes on the carb so that rules out needle and float issues instantly.
If you see that I'm missing another possible issue please reply with new insight so I can know what to fix rather than guessing at things that can cause mine to be doing this but for now logic tells me that its a power valve or accelerator pump.
Would love if you could watch my recent video. Pretty sure I have a float/needle issue. Sounds like your paragraph you describe about that.
The needle (needle and seat) is stuck open, draining the fuel bowl. You can see the fog of atomized fuel coming from the boosters.
That's physically impossible. The 2100 and 2150's have the fuel entry way up high, if the needle was bad, the fuel level would drop 2mm at the most. What COULD happen in the scenario you depicted is, the fuel pump would overfill the bowl, and fuel would spill into the boosters. He might have a culmination of problems, but he is on the right track with the PV. It is a known culprit on these carbs. Causing hard starts, extended cranks, and overly rich idle conditions.
You have likely found the problem. Those type of power valves do fail exactly as you describe. The rubber diaphragm ruptures, and since there is gas on top and the bottom is connected to intake manifold vacuum, the gas just pours into the intake manifold. Might as well change the throttle pump diaphragm while you are at it because if it leaks it will spew gas all over the engine, causing a fire hazard. If the carb looks clean you could probably get by without replacing all of the other stuff.
You will have to remove the carb and look under it. You will see two horns or caped off tips below the bowel. Take epoxy glue sold at any auto parts store and mix the glue together on a card board and then coat the two caps and let sit over night. Your fuel is leaking at the two tips.
★★★★★
I love watching your Automotive videos. They're very informative and great to watch.
I'm having similar issue before and after rebuilt Carb on 22R Toyota, Fuel is draining out of float bowl area, but seems to stop draining near 60% full. Power value seemed fine, not stuck, but is 30 years old.
Enjoyed this. How did it turn out??
power valve , bad accelerator pump , or a cracked carb body , if you have the whole kit , just put the whole kit in it , and check for cracks , and it should be fine after that ...
I have seem many problems pointing to the Power Valve gasket leaking. Do a search
the smoke in the ventury is a problem of ignition,coil so hot.
I'm thinking the power valve too.
it must be the power valve or the needle it's leave a gap against it's seat.
the gasket of the powervalve chek too
Seems to me there is a hairline crack inside the venturi or somewhere you can't see very well. That will make it get way too much fuel while it's running and make it run like shit.
I would get a rebuild kit for the carb and get a timing kit .
sounds like a good guess.
i lost tag on carb how do i get rebuild kit
Find a truck in your town that matches your specs and see if their tag will get you the correct kit, or maybe you could use your VIN number.
more bus videos soon?
Bad accelerator pump diaphram or the little red one way rubber in carb bowl bad
all the time and money you're spending on this carb you could just get a new one and save urself a big head ache......im having issues with mine trying to die out when i give it gas.....i have a 1967 ford f100 it has a 352 in it with a 2100 2 barrel carb...it is a motorcraft
remove that needle valve retaining clip (mine won't run with it installed)
Fataliac
It's always been a strange quirk of my carb, for as long as I've had it...17 years...(could indicate another problem of course...but have some common sense, watch for overflow)
am sory i can t help you
you gotta stop moving the camera so much, I am getting sick...