@@MikesCarburetor just solved a big problem for me as well- thank you! Although the found the chart for this carb online, a prior owner had put it on my Jeep with the 258 straight six so there are no specs for my engine on the chart. Should I just use another similar displacement I-6 engine for comparison?
I'm actually doing a conversion and i put this carb on a custom crown Toyota and this is very helpful thanks a million i wish you had an actual conversion video from two barrel Toyota to two barrel Ford i couldn't afford the Weber's thank God but next i should be EFI because yeah it's been a little challenging being my first conversion and having to convert everything from pedal to carb even down to acceleration rods to cable and luckily i was able to keep the transmission kick down without changing much and now after this i should be accelerating away
Overflowing 2100 discussions seemed to be easy to find a few days ago, now I can not find one? Tried different Fuel Pump thinking this one was bad. Still flowin over and the Float level is correct. Perhaps if I tried smoking some weed it might help? Tried every other approach....
My 2100 has an extra “arm” and screw on the throttle. Its not attached to anything in particular. It’s not the idle screw but one just above. This extra “arm” is almost like an extra throttle and is just to the inside only it’s loose as compared to the throttle. It is not the vertical bar with the holes for the throttle pump. I’ve been watching your videos looking to see what it is but can’t find it. I got the carb to rebuild and put on a 1990 yj. It’s a D4-PE EC that the internet says came off a 70 mercury cougar. I rebuilt it with one of your kits. Worked great. Just afraid to put it on if I’m missing something. The part Seems like it should attach to something and has an adjustment screw. Maybe someone attached it to convert it to pull down instead of rear pull (but then why the screw). Could it have had a dashpot at one time and if so is it ok to not have it anymore. I’d attach a picture but I’m not sure I can
tune up question -- my stock 64 fastback with 390 4 bbl Autolite 4100 carb -- when engine is cold I have to crank on it about 30/40 seconds before it will crank up. Once it's warmed up it will crank immediately but shut it off for 4 hours and the gas seems to disappear out of carb. I have the 1" water cooled spacer under the carb. Engine runs cool and runs great. It has a Mikes Carb repair kit in it (by far the best I've found in 65 years of doing this stuff.) Any suggestions?
thank you for the video .i have a 1983 mercury cougar 3.8 motor and having problems making carb adjustment on it. it starts but only stays running if i keep my foot on the pedal and stalls as soon as i leave go of the pedal. do you have a video on 1983 mercury cougar carb adjustments? thank you.
I’ve got a 2100 type B carb , I’ve completely rebuilt the carb and I’ve put it back on the car , but the problem I’m having now is it’s burning rich, I’ve turned the air fuel mixture screws in all the way and nothing happens, engine runs the same, I take them out , also while engine is running and engine runs rough, so I know it’s clear, but why isn’t it doing anything when I run them in if it does it when I take them out ,
I have a 57 fairlane 500 with a 292 and automatic transmission it has the 2100 carb and I’ve rebuilt the carb , but card ideas fine but as soon as I move throttle it stumbles and Boggs down , I’ve turned the fuel and air mixture screws all the way in while engine running and engine never changed it’s idle , can you help point me in a detection to what’s wrong?
Mike, what is that hole on the top of the carb (in front of the butterfly and right in the center on top of that notch)? My Autolite 2100 has that notch as an open hole but I see that yours is plugged/blocked off??? Thanks :)
I have a 73 f250 390ci. With a 2100 carb, for the passed 12 years I've had to rebuild it 3 times even though it only has under 1,000 miles in 12 years, because it starts leaking around the acellorater pump diaphragm and when I take it apart and hold the diaphragm up to the sunlight it is full of pinholes !! I guess it is the ethanol fuel eating up the diaphragm. What can I do to stop this, so far I haven't been able to find ethanol resistant carburetor rebuilding kits for this carb. And I can't get non ethanol gasoline. What do you suggest ? Thanks William.
I rebuilt my 2100 with your correct kit on my 65 Falcon 289, I have correct timing and plug gap. Pertronix ignition. No vacuum leaks, spark plugs look normal, not lean or rich. The engine stumbles on accel and have to feather the throttle on accel. The warmer the engine the better it gets but still there. I get good squirts from the accel pump. I have noticed the accel pump linkage moves much slower than the throttle plate linkage? If I rev from the throttle it stumbles, If I pull and rev from the accelerator linkage manually there is no stumble and it revs great. My question is: Is this normal operation of the accelerator linkage to slowly follow the throttle open or not? Any suggestions. I plan on taking it back off and doing all these adjustments in the video again.
Hey Mike, Ive got a 2100 here in the shop with a different unloader/fast idle cam set up than what you show in your video ruclips.net/video/xa_pCSQaS-c/видео.html mine doesnt seem to have an unloader and the fast idle screw doesnt ride on the cam. An arm that rides on the throttle shaft has the adjustment screw in it that steps on the cam and that pushes on and arm thats attached to the end of the throttle shaft. But there isnt a way for it to unload the choke. its a 72 Gran Torino with a 351c. Am i missing something? Thanks for your video.
Best way to set the idle screws is with a vacuum gauge; just adjust to highest vacuum and they will be perfect !!
I’ve been waiting for an in depth video like this for years. Thank you!!
@@MikesCarburetor just solved a big problem for me as well- thank you! Although the found the chart for this carb online, a prior owner had put it on my Jeep with the 258 straight six so there are no specs for my engine on the chart. Should I just use another similar displacement I-6 engine for comparison?
Thank you for making this video. I appreciate your efforts. Nicely done!
I'm actually doing a conversion and i put this carb on a custom crown Toyota and this is very helpful thanks a million i wish you had an actual conversion video from two barrel Toyota to two barrel Ford i couldn't afford the Weber's thank God but next i should be EFI because yeah it's been a little challenging being my first conversion and having to convert everything from pedal to carb even down to acceleration rods to cable and luckily i was able to keep the transmission kick down without changing much and now after this i should be accelerating away
you earned yourself a subscription. gonna catch up on your new content!
Very informative, thanks for posting
I appreciated the feedback.
Very informative! Thank you!
welcome!
Overflowing 2100 discussions seemed to be easy to find a few days ago, now I can not find one?
Tried different Fuel Pump thinking this one was bad.
Still flowin over and the Float level is correct.
Perhaps if I tried smoking some weed it might help?
Tried every other approach....
If I turn the fast idle cam righty tightly that will set for a longer duration of fast idle correct
Fast idle is speed of idle the length of warm up is on the choke loosen 3 screws and go clock wise for longer richer warm ups
My 2100 has an extra “arm” and screw on the throttle. Its not attached to anything in particular. It’s not the idle screw but one just above. This extra “arm” is almost like an extra throttle and is just to the inside only it’s loose as compared to the throttle. It is not the vertical bar with the holes for the throttle pump. I’ve been watching your videos looking to see what it is but can’t find it. I got the carb to rebuild and put on a 1990 yj. It’s a D4-PE EC that the internet says came off a 70 mercury cougar. I rebuilt it with one of your kits. Worked great. Just afraid to put it on if I’m missing something. The part Seems like it should attach to something and has an adjustment screw. Maybe someone attached it to convert it to pull down instead of rear pull (but then why the screw). Could it have had a dashpot at one time and if so is it ok to not have it anymore. I’d attach a picture but I’m not sure I can
I figured it out. Was for a dashpot that’s no longer there (for automatics).
tune up question -- my stock 64 fastback with 390 4 bbl Autolite 4100 carb -- when engine is cold I have to crank on it about 30/40 seconds before it will crank up. Once it's warmed up it will crank immediately but shut it off for 4 hours and the gas seems to disappear out of carb. I have the 1" water cooled spacer under the carb. Engine runs cool and runs great. It has a Mikes Carb repair kit in it (by far the best I've found in 65 years of doing this stuff.) Any suggestions?
thank you for the video .i have a 1983 mercury cougar 3.8 motor and having problems making carb adjustment on it. it starts but only stays running if i keep my foot on the pedal and stalls as soon as i leave go of the pedal. do you have a video on 1983 mercury cougar carb adjustments? thank you.
Sounds like your idle circuit Is clogged. Clean your ventures
I’ve got a 2100 type B carb , I’ve completely rebuilt the carb and I’ve put it back on the car , but the problem I’m having now is it’s burning rich, I’ve turned the air fuel mixture screws in all the way and nothing happens, engine runs the same, I take them out , also while engine is running and engine runs rough, so I know it’s clear, but why isn’t it doing anything when I run them in if it does it when I take them out ,
I need some help so I put a new carburetor and when I turn the truck the rpm goes all way up I have to turn off right away, how do I just that
I'm talking about Brazil, how many mm did the height of the buoy leave?
I have a 57 fairlane 500 with a 292 and automatic transmission it has the 2100 carb and I’ve rebuilt the carb , but card ideas fine but as soon as I move throttle it stumbles and Boggs down , I’ve turned the fuel and air mixture screws all the way in while engine running and engine never changed it’s idle , can you help point me in a detection to what’s wrong?
Having an issue with steady hwy speed. Seems to surge a little. Idles fine and speeds up fine.
Could be several things. Please see this page for some ideas: www.carburetor-parts.com/motorcraft-2100-surges.html
Mike, what is that hole on the top of the carb (in front of the butterfly and right in the center on top of that notch)? My Autolite 2100 has that notch as an open hole but I see that yours is plugged/blocked off??? Thanks :)
@@MikesCarburetor Okay thanks!
Where do I get a manual on how to adjust my typeB 2100?
“You gotta take this slop out…” How do I do that? Mine (‘68 typeB) has way more slop than that one. My choke plate never opens fully even when warm.
you didn't remeasure the float after you bent it and you didn't talk about the power valve.
What do I mine goes into fast idle ever time I hit the gas?
I have a 73 f250 390ci. With a 2100 carb, for the passed 12 years I've had to rebuild it 3 times even though it only has under 1,000 miles in 12 years, because it starts leaking around the acellorater pump diaphragm and when I take it apart and hold the diaphragm up to the sunlight it is full of pinholes !! I guess it is the ethanol fuel eating up the diaphragm. What can I do to stop this, so far I haven't been able to find ethanol resistant carburetor rebuilding kits for this carb. And I can't get non ethanol gasoline. What do you suggest ? Thanks William.
Past 12 years not “passed”
I rebuilt my 2100 with your correct kit on my 65 Falcon 289, I have correct timing and plug gap. Pertronix ignition. No vacuum leaks, spark plugs look normal, not lean or rich. The engine stumbles on accel and have to feather the throttle on accel. The warmer the engine the better it gets but still there. I get good squirts from the accel pump. I have noticed the accel pump linkage moves much slower than the throttle plate linkage? If I rev from the throttle it stumbles, If I pull and rev from the accelerator linkage manually there is no stumble and it revs great. My question is: Is this normal operation of the accelerator linkage to slowly follow the throttle open or not? Any suggestions. I plan on taking it back off and doing all these adjustments in the video again.
Hey Mike, Ive got a 2100 here in the shop with a different unloader/fast idle cam set up than what you show in your video ruclips.net/video/xa_pCSQaS-c/видео.html mine doesnt seem to have an unloader and the fast idle screw doesnt ride on the cam. An arm that rides on the throttle shaft has the adjustment screw in it that steps on the cam and that pushes on and arm thats attached to the end of the throttle shaft. But there isnt a way for it to unload the choke. its a 72 Gran Torino with a 351c. Am i missing something? Thanks for your video.
Does it have a choke pulloff?
@@MikesCarburetor yes, the one in the air horn
Where is the Spring that goes to the side
Please elaborate. I don't know which spring you refer to.
“Like a so” ?
i dont know what you could have forgotten
2 barrel 👌