Thanks so much for making this video! I have been struggling with my 2000 Dakar with starting/stalling issues for the last couple of months and the ignition timing sensor turned out to be the culprit. It was completely covered with filings and your video showed me how to access it properly. Thanks again!
This is worthy for checking flywheel magnet, debris, starting gear, wiring broken and changing gasket to prevent leakage by degradation. It is never over-maintenance for old bike. Love it , or Fix it. You are not alone.
Thank you :) It’s good fun learning about how it all works too, even if it is a bit messy, and costly taking it apart. I’m hoping all these checks will help the bike run well for a few more years yet to come.
Nice to confirm it's clean with no metal bits. Re: dirt - I got one of those micro-adapter kits w/mini hose and brushes (to clean inside a computer using a normal vacuum) to clean up grit before I crack a case open. They're so handy for lots of things. For the stator you can check each of the 3 wires against ground. There should be no continuity. Then check each one against the other two (1-2, 1-3, 2-3). There should be very little resistance between them and they should be about equal. Good to see you out there in winter!
Thanks for that, the micro adaptor is a brilliant idea. I’ve also tried to clean out the dirt as best as possible but my friend has recommended I do two oil changes before running the bike properly to be on the safe side. The gasket arrived today so I can get to work putting it all back together. I am also contemplating re installing the majority of the rigid oil line that I cut off before. I thought it was a good idea but I worry about the flexible hose getting damaged or burnt on the engine casing so I may have a little play around with that too whilst the oils out. Sometimes modifications don’t always work out for the best!
@@HaynesGarage Sorry you have that extra work on top of it! Good idea about the oil changes. Maybe you could obtain some good used oil (like from a car oil change) just to flush it 2x at idle, before putting the new oil and filter in. One other good thing for dirt around the case - I love using duct tape. I wrap it around my fingers, sticky side out - or if fingers don't fit in a space you can wrap it around a butter knife. It picks up so much crap!
@@c.meyers2882 It’s ok, I have some cheaper oil left over from my last oil change so I’ll use that up first and then buy some better stuff. :) That’s another good idea about the tape. I use a similar trick when I’m trying to get rid of cat hairs on my jumpers ;) they get everywhere!
Thank you for your video. And especially for the close up of that washer which I am missing. My bike had catastrophic stator /rotor failure! Metal shavings everywhere. Copper bits too. And epoxy bits also. Did you do any more of a tear down to clean yours up? I think the PO must have rode with I pods in blasting because it looks like he rode it allot after it grenaded! In fact I’m guessing he jump started it numerous times after it wouldn’t start on its own. Any advice on cleaning the oil system or should I just tear it all the way down?
Can’t thank you enough for these honest and detailed videos. Also love your matter of fact pragmatism. People could learn a lot from your approach to tasks well beyond motorcycles. Good job. Having said that, I must admit that your videos have gotten me completely off looking for an early f650 gs. I’m now hunting for a late carb f650 funduro. In the mean time, I’ve just purchased a ‘06 Suzuki Vstrom. Best of luck with your mechanical sleuthing. I’m looking forward to you getting it all sorted and giving us a summary of what you’ve learned. Maybe then I’ll get an early F650 gs. Engine foibles aside, it’s a compelling bike. Take care. R
Hehe, thank you. Another subscriber also mentioned about the earlier 650, Strada. It has been a real pain in the back side with the stalling issues, and most worrying of all the stalling at high speed. However, I have continued to ride it occasionally over the last few weeks and the high speed stalling still hasn’t happened after replacing the battery. The low speed stalling occurred after my friend had ridden it for 100 miles, and we had worked on it in the garage, possibly knocking the throttle a few times. I’m wondering whether the low speed stalling has always been a glitch in the bikes computer system.
@@HaynesGarage there’s an owners group (forget the name) in the US that has a ton of info on this problem. Apparently there are 4 major ecu remaps and 2 injectors, and the combo of these elements has pros/cons for all pairings. From what I could gather, it’s a fundamental problem with the ecu that has no complete fix. Having said that, some people claim they’ve never had any problems. Go figure. Still, as I mentioned, I like the platform, and will probably own one eventually. Best of luck. R.
Thank you very much for this video! Just found recently some metal "particles" (quite big actually like 5mm, magnetic, only in pan, not in filter or reservoir) when changing the oil. And of course today in the morning when I tried to overtake a bus the engine almost stalled and I almost fell over the handlebars (exaggerating of course but the slow down was quite dangerous). Then it happened this evening when testing new injector (with higher flow rate) under hard acceleration several times. The RPM was going crazy, 7k then 1k, but engine was not doing these revolutions. Funnily when playing with diagnostics yesterday it showed some error with crank position sensor, but I've never experienced this before, only today. So I cleared it and thought nothing of it. Weird is that after today's behavior there were no errors in diagnostic. But all points to it being faulty, probably covered with metal particles. I still have to find out from where these large magnetic particles came from. At first I thought gearbox but now I'm thinking starter or flywheel, who knows. I'm gonna report what I find when I open the cover, probably this weekend or the next one as I probably should buy a new sensor first.
So yesterday after cleaning the connector of CPS and a quick ride it seemed ok, no crazy tacho dance and deceleration after hard acceleration. I was quite happy but still had some creeping doubts. And of course today on a paved bumpy road it did it again. And when riding several rocky offroad sections it was quite often doing weird tacho stuff, but only 1 times decelerated (when going uphill of course lol). So I took it apart few hours ago and indeed there were small metallic particles on the sensor (between those 2 wires). So I gave the sensor some good cleanup and also the flywheel/rotor had some particles on the inside. Nothing really crazy bad but I didn't think it would be as the bike rides fine, only very rarely stutters, mostly on rough road or very hard gas. So I put it together again and hopefully all will be fine, as I don't really think the sensor itself can brake easily, it either works or doesn't. The resistance was 286 ohms, so within spec. The bike starts always on 1st try and rides "basically" fine, so really not a measurable fault I think. Well tomorrow and the day after should be raining so I won't test it only in garage (I could slide the rear if the deceleration thing happens at high speed and I'm definitely no drift king). Oh and very good news is that those large (supposedly) metallic particles were just pieces of paper seal - I got confused as the seal was very brittle and hard almost like an alloy and microscopic metal particles were on it so it stuck to a magnet. After good cleanup it wasn't magnetic. Anyway there weren't present in the stator area at all.
Such a shame you are experiencing the loss of power too. So dangerous, especially when overtaking larger vehicles, likes buses! Thanks for all the updates as it’s a good comparison for other f650 riders who may be having similar problems. I’ve not been able to ride my bike properly for a while now (35 weeks pregnant) but hopefully in a couple of months I’ll be back on her and I can see if the new battery has made a difference. Fingers crossed! Good luck with your bike, and ride safe!
@@HaynesGarage yeah it's quite scary as the single is barely enough to overtake anything on road let alone with loss of power lol ! the bike started yesterday on 1st try so I assembled it fine it seems (didn't forget the bloody washer), now I have to test it on some rough road or rocky offroad when the weather gets better. Btw it's kinda hard to put the cover on (and not destroy the seal) as the magneto sucks the cover with quite rough force so beware! Thanks for the kind words and good luck with your pregnancy! You will be back on the (off)road in no time. And exactly I hope it helps some fellow riders to diagnose the issue better if they read my comments.
Nope didn't help..still hard deceleration and tacho dance on big bumps yesterday..now I'm going to change the wiring to BMS + CPS connector. Then new sensor I guess. Wish me luck !
omg you won't believe what it was after all this struggle - loose + terminal on battery! It was one of the first things I tried but the screw was tight so I thought the cable is tight as well. But the bloody screw was somehow stuck in half-way position so obviously the cable was loose so on big bumps there was a bad connection for split second = manifested exactly like bad CPS (high RPM, sudden stalling etc.).
Noce video! I have a question I'm hoping you might help me with (I am not very mechanically inclined, but I'm trying to fix an f650st) At time 1:20 you remove a hose, where does the other end of the hose go to?
Hi Alex, thank you. I’m still learning a lot too. I believe the hose you’re talking about connects to the underside of the air box. I use max fische diagrams on the internet to help with part finding in case that is any use to you. Good luck fixing your f650st.
Quite a messy ordeal, do you recommend doing this on an older bike (even thou there were no complaints)? Or should I do it only if it starts acting up?
Hiya, my Dad always said “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, but at the same time I have learnt that the longer something is left, the more problems it can cause in the long run. Now I am working on my bike more often, it is easier to remove many of the bolts and fittings because I have cleaned parts up and used anti seize. The worst bit was when I first started getting in to mechanics after owning the bike for 6 years and everything was such a pain to remove, many parts were broken, seized, or had disintegrated when I removed them (such as the swing arm bearings/headstock bearing/side stand bolt e.t.c.) You have to be prepared to spend a bit of money too, and have time available to fix it if it doesn’t all go according to plan ;) So long as the bolts aren’t seized in your connector cover, or alternator casing, removing this part isn’t particularly tricky, but you will have to spend some money on a new gasket. As I allowed some dirt to get in (I’ve cleaned the area as best I could) I will also be doing a couple of oil changes before running it properly.
If I'm not mistaken 2.8 ohm for the resistance of the stator winding is way too much, it should be at most 0.5 ohm. Your stator is busted. Mine has about 0.9, I'm afraid I will have to change it. The voltage doesn't rise when revving up the engine.
@@HaynesGarage My battery is busted. I think it's because of bad charging. But I don't think the stator is the cause, because I remembered to measure the probes in short, and they're about 0.4 ohm, so the stator would be just about right. I suspect it's the rectifier. I will order a new battery and see from there. It's my mistake, I have a usb plug with a voltmeter installed, but I didn't think of monitoring my voltage once in a while and when the cold weather came the battery showed signs of weakness.
Thanks so much for making this video! I have been struggling with my 2000 Dakar with starting/stalling issues for the last couple of months and the ignition timing sensor turned out to be the culprit. It was completely covered with filings and your video showed me how to access it properly. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching the video Chera, I’m pleased you found it useful and have been able to fix your bike :)
This is worthy for checking flywheel magnet, debris, starting gear, wiring broken and changing gasket to prevent leakage by degradation.
It is never over-maintenance for old bike.
Love it , or Fix it. You are not alone.
Thank you :) It’s good fun learning about how it all works too, even if it is a bit messy, and costly taking it apart. I’m hoping all these checks will help the bike run well for a few more years yet to come.
Nice to confirm it's clean with no metal bits.
Re: dirt - I got one of those micro-adapter kits w/mini hose and brushes (to clean inside a computer using a normal vacuum) to clean up grit before I crack a case open. They're so handy for lots of things.
For the stator you can check each of the 3 wires against ground. There should be no continuity. Then check each one against the other two (1-2, 1-3, 2-3). There should be very little resistance between them and they should be about equal.
Good to see you out there in winter!
Thanks for that, the micro adaptor is a brilliant idea. I’ve also tried to clean out the dirt as best as possible but my friend has recommended I do two oil changes before running the bike properly to be on the safe side. The gasket arrived today so I can get to work putting it all back together. I am also contemplating re installing the majority of the rigid oil line that I cut off before. I thought it was a good idea but I worry about the flexible hose getting damaged or burnt on the engine casing so I may have a little play around with that too whilst the oils out. Sometimes modifications don’t always work out for the best!
@@HaynesGarage Sorry you have that extra work on top of it! Good idea about the oil changes. Maybe you could obtain some good used oil (like from a car oil change) just to flush it 2x at idle, before putting the new oil and filter in.
One other good thing for dirt around the case - I love using duct tape. I wrap it around my fingers, sticky side out - or if fingers don't fit in a space you can wrap it around a butter knife. It picks up so much crap!
@@c.meyers2882 It’s ok, I have some cheaper oil left over from my last oil change so I’ll use that up first and then buy some better stuff. :)
That’s another good idea about the tape. I use a similar trick when I’m trying to get rid of cat hairs on my jumpers ;) they get everywhere!
Thank you for your video. And especially for the close up of that washer which I am missing. My bike had catastrophic stator /rotor failure! Metal shavings everywhere. Copper bits too. And epoxy bits also. Did you do any more of a tear down to clean yours up? I think the PO must have rode with I pods in blasting because it looks like he rode it allot after it grenaded! In fact I’m guessing he jump started it numerous times after it wouldn’t start on its own. Any advice on cleaning the oil system or should I just tear it all the way down?
Can’t thank you enough for these honest and detailed videos. Also love your matter of fact pragmatism. People could learn a lot from your approach to tasks well beyond motorcycles. Good job. Having said that, I must admit that your videos have gotten me completely off looking for an early f650 gs. I’m now hunting for a late carb f650 funduro. In the mean time, I’ve just purchased a ‘06 Suzuki Vstrom. Best of luck with your mechanical sleuthing. I’m looking forward to you getting it all sorted and giving us a summary of what you’ve learned. Maybe then I’ll get an early F650 gs. Engine foibles aside, it’s a compelling bike. Take care. R
Hehe, thank you. Another subscriber also mentioned about the earlier 650, Strada. It has been a real pain in the back side with the stalling issues, and most worrying of all the stalling at high speed. However, I have continued to ride it occasionally over the last few weeks and the high speed stalling still hasn’t happened after replacing the battery. The low speed stalling occurred after my friend had ridden it for 100 miles, and we had worked on it in the garage, possibly knocking the throttle a few times. I’m wondering whether the low speed stalling has always been a glitch in the bikes computer system.
@@HaynesGarage there’s an owners group (forget the name) in the US that has a ton of info on this problem. Apparently there are 4 major ecu remaps and 2 injectors, and the combo of these elements has pros/cons for all pairings. From what I could gather, it’s a fundamental problem with the ecu that has no complete fix. Having said that, some people claim they’ve never had any problems. Go figure. Still, as I mentioned, I like the platform, and will probably own one eventually. Best of luck. R.
Thank you very much for this video! Just found recently some metal "particles" (quite big actually like 5mm, magnetic, only in pan, not in filter or reservoir) when changing the oil. And of course today in the morning when I tried to overtake a bus the engine almost stalled and I almost fell over the handlebars (exaggerating of course but the slow down was quite dangerous). Then it happened this evening when testing new injector (with higher flow rate) under hard acceleration several times. The RPM was going crazy, 7k then 1k, but engine was not doing these revolutions. Funnily when playing with diagnostics yesterday it showed some error with crank position sensor, but I've never experienced this before, only today. So I cleared it and thought nothing of it. Weird is that after today's behavior there were no errors in diagnostic. But all points to it being faulty, probably covered with metal particles. I still have to find out from where these large magnetic particles came from. At first I thought gearbox but now I'm thinking starter or flywheel, who knows. I'm gonna report what I find when I open the cover, probably this weekend or the next one as I probably should buy a new sensor first.
So yesterday after cleaning the connector of CPS and a quick ride it seemed ok, no crazy tacho dance and deceleration after hard acceleration. I was quite happy but still had some creeping doubts. And of course today on a paved bumpy road it did it again. And when riding several rocky offroad sections it was quite often doing weird tacho stuff, but only 1 times decelerated (when going uphill of course lol). So I took it apart few hours ago and indeed there were small metallic particles on the sensor (between those 2 wires). So I gave the sensor some good cleanup and also the flywheel/rotor had some particles on the inside. Nothing really crazy bad but I didn't think it would be as the bike rides fine, only very rarely stutters, mostly on rough road or very hard gas. So I put it together again and hopefully all will be fine, as I don't really think the sensor itself can brake easily, it either works or doesn't. The resistance was 286 ohms, so within spec. The bike starts always on 1st try and rides "basically" fine, so really not a measurable fault I think. Well tomorrow and the day after should be raining so I won't test it only in garage (I could slide the rear if the deceleration thing happens at high speed and I'm definitely no drift king). Oh and very good news is that those large (supposedly) metallic particles were just pieces of paper seal - I got confused as the seal was very brittle and hard almost like an alloy and microscopic metal particles were on it so it stuck to a magnet. After good cleanup it wasn't magnetic. Anyway there weren't present in the stator area at all.
Such a shame you are experiencing the loss of power too. So dangerous, especially when overtaking larger vehicles, likes buses! Thanks for all the updates as it’s a good comparison for other f650 riders who may be having similar problems. I’ve not been able to ride my bike properly for a while now (35 weeks pregnant) but hopefully in a couple of months I’ll be back on her and I can see if the new battery has made a difference. Fingers crossed! Good luck with your bike, and ride safe!
@@HaynesGarage yeah it's quite scary as the single is barely enough to overtake anything on road let alone with loss of power lol ! the bike started yesterday on 1st try so I assembled it fine it seems (didn't forget the bloody washer), now I have to test it on some rough road or rocky offroad when the weather gets better. Btw it's kinda hard to put the cover on (and not destroy the seal) as the magneto sucks the cover with quite rough force so beware! Thanks for the kind words and good luck with your pregnancy! You will be back on the (off)road in no time. And exactly I hope it helps some fellow riders to diagnose the issue better if they read my comments.
Nope didn't help..still hard deceleration and tacho dance on big bumps yesterday..now I'm going to change the wiring to BMS + CPS connector. Then new sensor I guess. Wish me luck !
omg you won't believe what it was after all this struggle - loose + terminal on battery! It was one of the first things I tried but the screw was tight so I thought the cable is tight as well. But the bloody screw was somehow stuck in half-way position so obviously the cable was loose so on big bumps there was a bad connection for split second = manifested exactly like bad CPS (high RPM, sudden stalling etc.).
Nice video.
Noce video!
I have a question I'm hoping you might help me with (I am not very mechanically inclined, but I'm trying to fix an f650st)
At time 1:20 you remove a hose, where does the other end of the hose go to?
Hi Alex, thank you. I’m still learning a lot too. I believe the hose you’re talking about connects to the underside of the air box. I use max fische diagrams on the internet to help with part finding in case that is any use to you. Good luck fixing your f650st.
Quite a messy ordeal, do you recommend doing this on an older bike (even thou there were no complaints)? Or should I do it only if it starts acting up?
Hiya, my Dad always said “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, but at the same time I have learnt that the longer something is left, the more problems it can cause in the long run. Now I am working on my bike more often, it is easier to remove many of the bolts and fittings because I have cleaned parts up and used anti seize. The worst bit was when I first started getting in to mechanics after owning the bike for 6 years and everything was such a pain to remove, many parts were broken, seized, or had disintegrated when I removed them (such as the swing arm bearings/headstock bearing/side stand bolt e.t.c.) You have to be prepared to spend a bit of money too, and have time available to fix it if it doesn’t all go according to plan ;) So long as the bolts aren’t seized in your connector cover, or alternator casing, removing this part isn’t particularly tricky, but you will have to spend some money on a new gasket. As I allowed some dirt to get in (I’ve cleaned the area as best I could) I will also be doing a couple of oil changes before running it properly.
If I'm not mistaken 2.8 ohm for the resistance of the stator winding is way too much, it should be at most 0.5 ohm. Your stator is busted. Mine has about 0.9, I'm afraid I will have to change it. The voltage doesn't rise when revving up the engine.
Thanks for the info. Is your bike running badly too?
@@HaynesGarage My battery is busted. I think it's because of bad charging. But I don't think the stator is the cause, because I remembered to measure the probes in short, and they're about 0.4 ohm, so the stator would be just about right. I suspect it's the rectifier. I will order a new battery and see from there.
It's my mistake, I have a usb plug with a voltmeter installed, but I didn't think of monitoring my voltage once in a while and when the cold weather came the battery showed signs of weakness.