Open your garage door 20" and place a row of 20" furnace air filters across the bottom so that all incoming air is being filtered. Add another fan blowing out if needed.
here is something I now will work and that is get your hands on a furnace hot air blower you know the one with the large drum in it in that C frame blower assembly ,add a one horse motor on the top of it and then gear it up to 3400 rpm and not 1725.Haha standing in front of it will feel like a hurricane..The reason im suggesting this is because when I used to make custom furniture and sprayed lacquer from a spray gun the fumes were gone in seconds almost the same consistency of spraying paint.What I did was build a box big enough to house the fane mounted it on the wall blowing outside and placing a furnace filter on the opening and an exterior on off switch.I suggest you try it first and seefor yourself and if you need even more make a second one placing it on the same wall on the other side exhausting to the outside. but im sure one will be enough.When I had to spray on site I used 2 one at the front door sucking in and another at the back blowing out .The client never smelled the lacquer spray and it never messed up the house .My thinking was if the unit was rated at say 1000 cfm by doubling the speed of the fan the result was now 2000 cfm. and it never destroyed the bearing on the motor or the blower and never had a need for hoses..Ps crack the garage door open about 2 inches ..get back to me if you can .If you need a plan for the box I can always send you a drawing
Slinky tube thing: One of those kiddie tunnels or agility dog tunnels. The outside is usually a plastic or vinyl and stretches out like a slinky on it's side. Plus they should be cheap.
You need a big homemade 'kitchen stove hood'. I would go with 12" - 18" hvac flex duct strait to that exhaust fan. Might want to put a furnace filter infront of it.
A box of 16 inch hvac flexible duct would work well,it comes in 25 ft lenghts. I use it when I install heat pumps for the return ducting on the units and it is insulated and flexible. Great idea on the downdraft paint system.
@redneckbryon the one I put in moves alot of air just cant be choked like that, the westy runs and the single cab turns over but never had it running,,
That's quite the coincidence I was also just designing in my mind a system that would draw air from under the vehicle being painted. I was going to use home heating style duct work for under the car (rectangular about 6"x12"x 15' long) but have yet to work out the connection to the wall mounted fan. By the way great videos
I think your idea is worth pursuing. The only think I see off is that you set up to much turbulence in the suction design. Fans don't like to pull through smaller openings than the are and they don't like to pull through corrugated piping. Your system is more like a vacuum cleaner than a air mover so I would try using two squirrel cage blowers instead of a fan. If the fan is a must have and you hate squirrel cages then I would build a platform and suck the air out from underneath the platform with the fan you have. Still keep at it. If your system works you have something that I would buy.
we built a mini paint booth in my shop . about 100' sq and used a furnace fan assembly to suck it out using a 10 ft strip at the bottom about 1 inch wide. blew it out under the door. proved to be real effective. essentlialy a crossdraft paint booth.
that happens to me all the time,lol,trial and error,that looked like it should have worked out good,curios to see what your final setup will be,ive got one of those fans but not quite sure how to hook it up,take care and thankx for the vid
What if you use plastic Drain pipe that you would use septic tank drainfield pipe and place it under the car or truck you are painting. then plumb into the fan or exhaust. smooth pipe, lots of area. maybe block off some of the holes closer to the fan so it could draw all the way down the pipe? as you can tell i am thinking out loud. please help me figure this one out.
most of the problems I had was dust falling from the rafters and blowing up off the floor. laying down cheap plastic on the floor and hung from the ceiling helps. Doesn't stop insects getting stuck to the paint while it is drying.
I'd go with bernard boy genius and the kiddie tube. Negative pressure does not work like positive pressure ventilation. That's why intake valves are larger than exhaust. Just run the largest tolerable diameter tube under the car. The issue then becomes where the fresh air enters. If you have full curtains and the only place it can draw air from is the rafters, then it has no choice but to down-draft. If it pulls the curtains in against the car, then restrict the fan inlet.
how about this, make a curtain set up that will be your paint area, about 2 feet bigger than the actual area. Make your curtain rods from conduit .ether above your ceiling or below, mount you fan to the roof with a 90' elbow so water will not collect. This maybe hard as your fan is a beast. maybe it can be broken down. or make your brother help, they have to be good for something after all. mine is good for mindless labor.
First, the idea is to pull the over spray & dust AWAY from the fresh paint, so the air intakes need to be off to the side, not under the car. Second, air movement is going to generate dust in the air since the make up air is not filtered, this is why paint booths have enclosing walls and intake filters. Maybe a easy up -easy down clean pvc or metal tube framed tent could be erected in the shop as a booth. Maybe like an accordion attached to an outside wall. The other end could be a lightweight movable filter rack and velcroed in place from the inside just before painting, or from the outside if you build a door into it. You would only need to extend the tent out for painting or sanding large stuff like cars, small stuff could be painted with the tent in the compacted position, so now you have a small and a large paint booth all in one. The blowers could also be run at any time needed. to exhaust the building or for cooling in the summer. Stuff could be stored inside the compacted tent when not in use to conserve space. Third, you need massive cfm from the fan with very little restriction to the flow, something capable of removing all of the air in the shop several times a minute. Look at paint booth specs and see how big the blowers they are using compared to the cubic feet of space in the shop. hypothetical example - tent/booth is 12x20x8 = 1920 cubic feet x 3 times per minute 5760 cu.ft./min and that is probably under powered.
@mustie1 , well the stuff I am talking about is rigid, about 3" dia. smooth and white and doesnt look at all like what I see in your vid. it has 3/4 inch holes . It is the old fashioned type.
Hi mate, yes you are on the right track, but some simple maths. The rule of thumb for booths is "clear it in 60sec". So lets say your garage is 20'*30'*10. That is 3000 cubic feet of clean filtered air that needs to be sucked in, blown down on the job and extracted...every second. Now your exhaust fan is probably 3 foot square and it probably CAN suck 3000CFM no problem...IF you had a 3 foot square hole in the roof and NOTHING in between. If you reduce ANY portion of flow the suck must increase to compensate. That box? those hoses?...noooooo..... So if the smallest part of the system is 1 square foot then you'd need 9000cfm to compensate...HENCE, you are right those few square inches of floor cross-section are the deal breaker. Your idea is good, but not the numbers. Salvation is possible however. Simply calculate the area of your fan blades, look up its cfm and then re design the system so that NO CROSS-SECTIONAL areas is smaller than the fan blade area...bigger is OK, different geometry is OK but not smaller. Good luck and cheers Pete (who loves to paint)
serious deja vu.. me and my buddy were just discussing a setup similar to what u just showed... well guess we can scratch that one idk.. maybe we will try it anyway...
right idea, too small of piping, get a 25' box of flexible duct either insulated or uninsulated off of ebay for like $40 at least 12" in diameter and squeeze it underneath the car or go to local sheetmetal manufacturer and order a round to square let's say 18x8 transition and put a 4' section of square duct with an end cap underneath ur project and cut 4" holes along the 8" side of square duct. and to connect it to the fan either cap it off with plywood or sheetmetal, then cut a round hole and use either piece of metal pipe or measure and cut piece of tin, then notch it on one side and screw it down to your cap so you can slide your flexile duct on it and secure it either with zip ties of get few long hose clamps and link them together so you can reuse them.
even with an enclosed spray booth, you are talking ten to twenty HP on the blower. its not possible without a booth to envelop the car with air flow, in an open area the air flows on the path of least resistance, not around the car at all. Some might suggest air screens, that wouldnt work either. even with a garage pit it wouldnt work . I do these things for a living. email me if you like see my other response
just me....u don't have the flow,when u r trying 2 cover the fan on the inside of your garage.& the tubes,good ideal .............open the fan back up,open the door(not the over head door) but the door u use 2 get in to your garage,leave it open u will get good air flow....but that is just me thinking PEEEACE
Open your garage door 20" and place a row of 20" furnace air filters across the bottom so that all incoming air is being filtered. Add another fan blowing out if needed.
@snocrushr I was kinda looking to keep it low and light, too bad we dident have a garage with a pit in the floor, and thanks,,
here is something I now will work and that is get your hands on a furnace hot air blower you know the one with the large drum in it in that C frame blower assembly ,add a one horse motor on the top of it and then gear it up to 3400 rpm and not 1725.Haha standing in front of it will feel like a hurricane..The reason im suggesting this is because when I used to make custom furniture and sprayed lacquer from a spray gun the fumes were gone in seconds almost the same consistency of spraying paint.What I did was build a box big enough to house the fane mounted it on the wall blowing outside and placing a furnace filter on the opening and an exterior on off switch.I suggest you try it first and seefor yourself and if you need even more make a second one placing it on the same wall on the other side exhausting to the outside. but im sure one will be enough.When I had to spray on site I used 2 one at the front door sucking in and another at the back blowing out .The client never smelled the lacquer spray and it never messed up the house .My thinking was if the unit was rated at say 1000 cfm by doubling the speed of the fan the result was now 2000 cfm. and it never destroyed the bearing on the motor or the blower and never had a need for hoses..Ps crack the garage door open about 2 inches
..get back to me if you can .If you need a plan for the box I can always send you a drawing
Slinky tube thing: One of those kiddie tunnels or agility dog tunnels. The outside is usually a plastic or vinyl and stretches out like a slinky on it's side. Plus they should be cheap.
You need a big homemade 'kitchen stove hood'. I would go with 12" - 18" hvac flex duct strait to that exhaust fan. Might want to put a furnace filter infront of it.
great idea, i think smaller diameter hoses from exhaust fan to floor vent would increase velocity
A box of 16 inch hvac flexible duct would work well,it comes in 25 ft lenghts.
I use it when I install heat pumps for the return ducting on the units and it is insulated and flexible.
Great idea on the downdraft paint system.
@mitym64 yeah but there was just no volume and thats needed more then anything, change the air,,
@redneckbryon the one I put in moves alot of air just cant be choked like that, the westy runs and the single cab turns over but never had it running,,
@Busia1949 I was thinking more like 14 inches so its full volume,,
We just watched your earlier videos with Vinney on the TV with You Tube capability. Nice to see and hear it large and loud!
That's quite the coincidence I was also just designing in my mind a system that would draw air from under the vehicle being painted. I was going to use home heating style duct work for under the car (rectangular about 6"x12"x 15' long) but have yet to work out the connection to the wall mounted fan. By the way great videos
I think your idea is worth pursuing. The only think I see off is that you set up to much turbulence in the suction design. Fans don't like to pull through smaller openings than the are and they don't like to pull through corrugated piping. Your system is more like a vacuum cleaner than a air mover so I would try using two squirrel cage blowers instead of a fan.
If the fan is a must have and you hate squirrel cages then I would build a platform and suck the air out from underneath the platform with the fan you have.
Still keep at it. If your system works you have something that I would buy.
we built a mini paint booth in my shop . about 100' sq and used a furnace fan assembly to suck it out using a 10 ft strip at the bottom about 1 inch wide. blew it out under the door. proved to be real effective. essentlialy a crossdraft paint booth.
@cigarcaptain thats what is on there for the round pipe now, its soso,,
that happens to me all the time,lol,trial and error,that looked like it should have worked out good,curios to see what your final setup will be,ive got one of those fans but not quite sure how to hook it up,take care and thankx for the vid
What if you use plastic Drain pipe that you would use septic tank drainfield pipe and place it under the car or truck you are painting. then plumb into the fan or exhaust. smooth pipe, lots of area. maybe block off some of the holes closer to the fan so it could draw all the way down the pipe? as you can tell i am thinking out loud. please help me figure this one out.
Wouldn't a furnace fan pull more air?
That what I use on my shop.
Do the buses at the back of the garage run?
How big is your property there? Looks to me like a pretty nice chunk for a city dwelling. Thanks for the videos.
1 acre but lots of woods behind me
Well that's respectable. Is the woods city owned or private? Just curious.
Awesome thought try the dryer flex tubing
@jasonmushersee I like the range hood on its side idea
most of the problems I had was dust falling from the rafters and blowing up off the floor. laying down cheap plastic on the floor and hung from the ceiling helps. Doesn't stop insects getting stuck to the paint while it is drying.
@brian242 my brothers back in jersey so im on my own for mindless labor, but im good at mindless,,,
I'd go with bernard boy genius and the kiddie tube. Negative pressure does not work like positive pressure ventilation. That's why intake valves are larger than exhaust. Just run the largest tolerable diameter tube under the car. The issue then becomes where the fresh air enters. If you have full curtains and the only place it can draw air from is the rafters, then it has no choice but to down-draft. If it pulls the curtains in against the car, then restrict the fan inlet.
how about this, make a curtain set up that will be your paint area, about 2 feet bigger than the actual area. Make your curtain rods from conduit .ether above your ceiling or below, mount you fan to the roof with a 90' elbow so water will not collect. This maybe hard as your fan is a beast. maybe it can be broken down. or make your brother help, they have to be good for something after all. mine is good for mindless labor.
Those fan vents looks like a mouse interstate highway. lol
First, the idea is to pull the over spray & dust AWAY from the fresh paint, so the air intakes need to be off to the side, not under the car.
Second, air movement is going to generate dust in the air since the make up air is not filtered, this is why paint booths have enclosing walls and intake filters. Maybe a easy up -easy down clean pvc or metal tube framed tent could be erected in the shop as a booth. Maybe like an accordion attached to an outside wall. The other end could be a lightweight movable filter rack and velcroed in place from the inside just before painting, or from the outside if you build a door into it. You would only need to extend the tent out for painting or sanding large stuff like cars, small stuff could be painted with the tent in the compacted position, so now you have a small and a large paint booth all in one. The blowers could also be run at any time needed. to exhaust the building or for cooling in the summer. Stuff could be stored inside the compacted tent when not in use to conserve space.
Third, you need massive cfm from the fan with very little restriction to the flow, something capable of removing all of the air in the shop several times a minute. Look at paint booth specs and see how big the blowers they are using compared to the cubic feet of space in the shop. hypothetical example - tent/booth is 12x20x8 = 1920 cubic feet x 3 times per minute 5760 cu.ft./min and that is probably under powered.
@231flash me to, but then again I like em all
@MMR45660 so im the big boob on the tube?
@satajet883 guess I can stake them out at lunch time,,,
@mustie1 , well the stuff I am talking about is rigid, about 3" dia. smooth and white and doesnt look at all like what I see in your vid. it has 3/4 inch holes . It is the old fashioned type.
You need some tubing like the phone company guy's use when they are under ground. I wonder where they sell there surplus stuff.
how many vw busses do you have
@Supervictor1211 it was outside
Hi mate, yes you are on the right track, but some simple maths. The rule of thumb for booths is "clear it in 60sec". So lets say your garage is 20'*30'*10. That is 3000 cubic feet of clean filtered air that needs to be sucked in, blown down on the job and extracted...every second. Now your exhaust fan is probably 3 foot square and it probably CAN suck 3000CFM no problem...IF you had a 3 foot square hole in the roof and NOTHING in between. If you reduce ANY portion of flow the suck must increase to compensate. That box? those hoses?...noooooo..... So if the smallest part of the system is 1 square foot then you'd need 9000cfm to compensate...HENCE, you are right those few square inches of floor cross-section are the deal breaker. Your idea is good, but not the numbers. Salvation is possible however. Simply calculate the area of your fan blades, look up its cfm and then re design the system so that NO CROSS-SECTIONAL areas is smaller than the fan blade area...bigger is OK, different geometry is OK but not smaller. Good luck and cheers Pete (who loves to paint)
serious deja vu.. me and my buddy were just discussing a setup similar to what u just showed... well guess we can scratch that one idk.. maybe we will try it anyway...
@yukonrott lrt me know what you come up with,,
my opinion is in your situation, keep air flow ingress up high. put filters over the intake. probably the best your gonna do in that sit.
Flexible heater/air conditioner ductwork might work for you. They come in 6" or 8" and other sizes as well.
I like your someday #2
you should've gone down the HVAC section they have metal flexible tubes about 25 feet long..
right idea, too small of piping, get a 25' box of flexible duct either insulated or uninsulated off of ebay for like $40 at least 12" in diameter and squeeze it underneath the car or go to local sheetmetal manufacturer and order a round to square let's say 18x8 transition and put a 4' section of square duct with an end cap underneath ur project and cut 4" holes along the 8" side of square duct. and to connect it to the fan either cap it off with plywood or sheetmetal, then cut a round hole and use either piece of metal pipe or measure and cut piece of tin, then notch it on one side and screw it down to your cap so you can slide your flexile duct on it and secure it either with zip ties of get few long hose clamps and link them together so you can reuse them.
@Peppercatkeith I got good sizzers
wheres the vw bus?? :D
@jeremylee99100 4ish as of now but I look all the time,,
we each need a split window to ride in
i think your tarps might sucked in when you are painting
even with an enclosed spray booth, you are talking ten to twenty HP on the blower. its not possible without a booth to envelop the car with air flow, in an open area the air flows on the path of least resistance, not around the car at all. Some might suggest air screens, that wouldnt work either. even with a garage pit it wouldnt work . I do these things for a living. email me if you like see my other response
why not get more of the flex tube and drill your holes in that if it's under the car like the flat thing was your not going to walk on it anyhow
just use plastic and it will be fine...:)
Dude there is reason downdraft cost 100k the materials ain't cheap. Even a good improvised booths is 2k minimum. Sore but it's a reality
just me....u don't have the flow,when u r trying 2 cover the fan on the inside of your garage.& the tubes,good ideal .............open the fan back up,open the door(not the over head door) but the door u use 2 get in to your garage,leave it open u will get good air flow....but that is just me thinking PEEEACE