Silicone Mold Curing Methods Tested Pt.2
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- Опубликовано: 11 ноя 2017
- This video shows the results of Pt.1
Silicone caulking was bought from Home Depot. Make sure its 100% silicone.
Smooth On Silicone Products:
www.smooth-on.com/category/pl...
Thi-Vex silicone thickener (used with smooth-on products):
www.smooth-on.com/products/th...
You can purchase smooth on products for their website or use their distributor finder to see if anyone near you sells it. 
Авто/Мото
For those who have not watched my other videos: I know the cling wrap will prevent air from getting to the silicone. That is the purpose of this test! To see if there is some way to get the silicone to set when NOT exposed to air! I have a video showing how to make silicone insoles and you have to use cling wrap to make the mold. Hopefully this has answered any questions.
Insoles. Not what I came for, but definitely what I'm goin for! Thanks 👍
Thank you so much this helped
@colchilibeck I appreciate your analysis. I have a colorful silicone ball that's soft and pliable. I'd like to make it hard to display it on my desk. What's your recommendation?
I have experimented with silicone modes a lot, here is some of what you are missing. silicone #2 bad- extra chemicals do not mix with curing agent (is what you are mixing it with) silicone #1 good and is usually cheaper can get at Walmart for $5. I have found silicone mixed with cold water (temp does make difference) and dish soap (dawn is best but other brands work too as long as it original no citrus) add around 1/8 soap to 1 part water (1 cup water 1/8 cup dish soap) mixing needs to be done by hand under water pull apart and squish together(very important step) dip hands in water rub together before touching silicone and no sticky mess reapply soap water as you mold shape. work quickly it will set up in 10- 15 minuets you can pull part out of mold in 40 minuets or less. mold has to air out no covering it, put it in front of fan to speed up full cure which is complicated- you can cast with in 3-5 hours depending on temp and humility but full cure where the strong smell is gone is 2-3 days. finished mold is very strong and heat resistant I pour melted led and other soft metals it smokes a little and that is it pull part and re pour ( full cure needed for metal pouring or it will ignite very quickly) hope this helps.
Thanks that help a lot
please make a video of it!
I'm trying to make mold using dishwater, I used GE #2 and after 28 hours still has not cured. So, I'm guessing it was the #2? And is there a recommendation on silicone I should buy for the dishwater method?
That's some awesome feedback / tips. Thanks for sharing!
@@onireno silicone 1 I believe , he used the wrong one I think
I tried your method for making arch supports using glycerin and had moderate success, after seeing this video I tried the cornstarch method but the supports were too hard so I went back to the glycerin method, using five pumps of silicone to ten drops of glycerine and had good results after two days to set, thank you
Thanks for taking the time to post these videos. Constructive criticism is great but negative rude feedback is not necessary. If people want to type and be rude to prove a point they can make a video themselves and stop hiding behind the screen. Kudos to you 🙂
I've used glycerin for years, just let it set up for 24 hours or more and it works fantastic.
Thank you for making this video and experimenting with different ingredients :) I've been thinking of doing some insoles and came accros your other video where you used glycerin. Having high arches is so expensive!
And the insoles they sell are so expensive and rarely work!
So thank you again for making them and giving all the details so we can try it.
You are very welcome. I hope it helps you out!
My first thought was can the chemicals be absorbed through your skin? Breast implates was a big problem in the 80's. Do more research
great tests! i liked seeing the range of different methods of embedding moisture. I played with moistening ceramic powder & sand, both worked, but its not always acceptable to have ceramic powder in the mold (sometimes it helps if you want to stiffen). In my experience, glycerin is the best DIY curing agent (really just a carrier for H20). Though I am quite familiar with results like you demonstrated, I usually get a fully set(removable from mold without deformation) batch inside of 3 hours. Most of my experience is with 3d printed molds where there is no hope of humidity reaching the silicon, a kin to your plastic wrap. i use DAP 100% silicone, in various colors (food dye works with white & clear really well, btw)
tangent: I had used one bottle of glycerin over more than a year, recently ran out. When I switch to a new bottle, I started to have results like you demo...gooey messes that never really cure. Though I had been using this method for over a year, I was under the mistake impression that the glycrin was reacting directly with the silicone, its not! So I am frustrated trying to figure out what different with this new bottle, which has resulted in SOME successful batches? 3 key details came into focus:
1) glycerin is a wetting agent, is sucks up water., as much as doubling its volume. its not the catalyst I assumed it to be.
2) the old bottle was a flip top that had broken off day one---the bottle was always exposed to some air/ h20
3) its been very cold recently, heat has been on constantly, very little moisture in the air.
so the new bottle had worked in the fall, when humidity was fairly high and wasn't working now because its in a sealed bottle and there is no moisture in the air during winter for the glycerin to catch during mixing.
effective dosage:
so now I make a mix of roughly 6 glycerin : 1 h20 --then I need ~10mL of that mix for my standard batch: 4 pulls of the caulk gun (not at all accurate, but I do it to), also know as 1 "meow mix" cup.
I have gone through a lot of bad batches in silicone to figure this out, hope I can save someone else that trouble. when done right, glycerin is BY FAR the best choice for DIY deep silicone curing. any sort of fine powder: sand, corn starch, powder sugar, ect will also work as carriers for h20 to be evenly distributed through the mold OR can be used in addition to glycerin to stiffen the silicone per application.
I just want to record my gratitude from Malaysia!
None of your results were good because you used silicone 2. It uses a different chemical reaction in curing so it’s not usable for this type of thing. Plain water mixed into silicone 1 can be finished curing in 10-20 minutes.
Water and soap definitely works well. And if you use cornstarch you have to use white caulking
You cured my feet!!! Thank you!
did you use an odourless silicone Oxime is a setting agent that work with moisture in the air its why u might need to set in thin layers but if its a different agent it won't work with water
You result are interesting because I use water and dawn dish soap to get my caulking to set within 30 minutes. You mixing method was very different from my method- when mixing the viscosity changes.
Thank you for showing all these different methods. You saved me a boatload of time.
Very helpful thank you sooooo much for making this video...legend!
Got any tips for making the silicone foamy when set? I'm testing some ideas of my own...
Thanks for the comparison video. I have watched MANY videos on making home made silicone molds & based on all of those & their comments it looks like others here commenting are right about your water/soap experiment. It has had the better result compared to the cornstarch one if done right. It needs to be mixed properly (ice cold water, enough soap & thoroughly kneading it throughout soapy water) AND allowed to dry/cure properly & then it ends up being the better one (cornstarch has shown cracking). Also I've seen MANY others also note that it "HAS TO BE DONE" using the 100% Silicone I ("One" not using type II/Two). You might want to give that method another go doing it "properly". ;)
what about the test repeated without covering with the plastic? wrap
I’ve used both 1 and 2.
2 never dries. Or takes days, weeks or months. Depending how thick.
Where as silicone 1 drys immediately.
Within 30minutes or sooner. Thick applications could take 24 hour.
Great video, and I use the term loosely.
It seems you are using the “kitchen” type of silicone but you used the “exterior” type when you made the orthotic video. Does one or the other type last longer? Does either type shrink or crack eventually?
very interesting.. What you are rating this on is 18 hr after.. It would be nice to have a 2-7 day cure and see if it is effectively the same
Is this necessary for the end result or is it just to save an extra day or two?
If you don’t add anything, will you notice a difference after a week?
To me it sounds counterintuitive to add starch, sugar or soap in silicone (if that is so necessary, why wasn’t it in it from the beginning)?
how much glycerine did you use. more than 3 drops
Do you vaseline the cling film, it should stop it from sticking.
If you mixed water into the silicone and it did not cure at all in 16 hours, it is the wrong type of silicone...
Try again with the alkoxy type silicone. Also be aware that sealing it in completely will extend cure time due to the alcohol not being able to escape.
If it smells like vinegar, it's the wrong type...
Try using acrylic paint as a carrier for the water when adding curing agent. The color of the acrylic also helps to show if you have mixed it well enough.
I wanted to understand the silicone curing process and your'e the only one who's mentioned it, could you assist further? I mean so there's alcohol in the silicone and when that evaporates then the silicone cures, is that what you mean? And then what role does water/moisture play?
I use soap water and caulk it works great but silicone 2 does not set up the same. As plain silicone try it again with regular silicone
Test:
I made two silicone cubes 2,5x2,5 cm and cut them in half after 3 days. The cube with glycerine was still not dry and soft inside while the cube without anything (just silicone) was hard. Seems that I did not need to add anything and that glycerine just made things worse.
I'm hard. and I need that glycerine.
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What about silicone with paint thinner?
How do you get rid of strong silicone smell, I'm using another method, odorless mineral spirits and 100% silicone no#1 , the silicone has a strong smell .
Actually as far as getting a good mold, silicone placed in water and dish soap (original Dawn is supposed to the best, but I haven't tested that) is superior in terms of flexibility to the silicone/corn starch mixture. But it takes FOREVER to set. One thing you did wrong was you didn't use a enough soap. Use a lot of soap and make sure your hands are coated with it. Then knead the silicone in the mixture for several minutes. The longer you knead it the firmer it gets. But it looks like you are using the silicone for a very different purpose than I am so, what I've wrote might not be that helpful. Based on what you've shown, I might try the icing in place of the corn starch I have been using to make molding putty. Thanks for the test.
I'm glad you elaborated on this. I'm making puppet heads and want to make a fairly thick mold, and even a plaster mother mold around it. When you say it takes "forever" to dry, can you be more specific? 24 hours, 3 days...?
design321
3 days was about the average. But room temperature is a variable, and of course it's a lot warmer now. I think your right about using the plaster mold. I didn't, but I was casting items a lot smaller than puppet heads. Make a video showcasing them once you've cast a few. I'd like to see them, and I'm sure other people will as well.
How do I use 100% silicone to make a mold then use it to cast a hand
thanks for the idea, im planning to make mermaid tail using this silicon.
Sir what is Redard 40
Chamical name
Interesting. But of course if the water cannot evaporate it will remain as it was when first covered, how would it change if the water cannot evaporate under the plastic film?
Thanks
The ones made with water need to be able to evaporate the extra water. Covering with saran wrap stops that. You might try again, but not covering it.
Results at 10:30.
Are you now using corn starch or icing sugar for your silicone inserts? Or are you using the rebound 40? Also have you used the silicone I?
T KM I have been using smooth-on Equinox 40. It is a food safe putty that you can easily mix by hand.
You probably needed more soap because I had no problems getting mine to set
I used to work quality control. If I knew something cured in 24 hours but I'm going to test at 16... I'd be fired.
I guess it's a good thing I dont work in quality control.
@@colchilibeck so why are you making conclusions after 16 hours?
@@colchilibeck I bet most of the comments on this videos are about testing after 16 like a total douche.
He works in research and development the point of the experiment was seeing how far the curing had come. For cross analysis
with water (and soap) silicone needs to air-dry... you put plastic wrap around it.. so it didnt work
What would be better for making rtv Silicon gasket, please reply.thanks
To anybody reading this: Don't do that. It creates a poisonous and potentially deadly gas.
@@cybercranium so she wants to kill us. What's it about bleach and ammonia that's poisonous? never heard.
Should have been clear instruction on amounts for icing sugar & corn starch.
cheeky re promotion video
You needed to try stay flo liquid starch and borax
part 3?? when the air gets to it....
Why didn't you create a control by using just pure silicon and not mixing it with anything to see how it compared to the other methods?
Because it would not have set at all. The clear wrap would have stuck and it would have been a big gooey mess.
I tried this. I am not sure what kind of silicone I used cause it was last of a tube and I threw it away.. I only used 100%. My plans are to use contact cement and glue soft leather to the tops.
I made enough of these to for in each pair of shoes. After full cure I pull out the shoe insole out a dab of silicone on the arch support and position in the shoe where it needs to go. Let it cure, replace the insole and I never have to think about it again
genius
Has anybody tried using hydrogen peroxide for a curing agent since the molecule has a bunch of oxygen in it that could work you should do the experiment and see
I tried the silicone with corn starch and it is not drying. Not sticky but not dry. Did I put too much? too little??
If anything probably too little.
Let it dry for a few days with the plastic off.
If you don't add enough starch the silicone will take a very long time to cure. It is better to err on the side of two much. For a tube of caulk you can start with about 1/2 cup of starch. The important thing is to get it to a point where the starch is well mixed in with the silicon by kneading it with you hands and you can form sort of ball that is not sticking to your hands. Use Nitrile gloves as the silicon will not stick to them (don't use latex gloves).
@@captainpixels thanks, finally a recipe
too bad there is not one sample with the same silicone without anything added in the same test to see if it would have been better thn the water one
I just did the soap one you did it completely wrong you dump and mix a whole tube into a bucket or tub mix it cold water with soap rubbed into your hands you can knead it together in the water pull it out onto a plastic plate and mould away about 4 5 minutes your mould has to be soapy too it sets up in 5 minutes but will stink probably for 18 to 24 hours.. My mould was 3 full bottles of silicone so good three times 300ml. I used half a small bottle of dishsoap without citrus and cold water. I cast the interior of a milk jug full litre about a third of the jug. Try it again was my first time.
Hello Colin,
Where did you buy BOTH types of silicone you demonstrated?
ie) Home Depot, Home Hardware, etc?
Thanks!
Mike Taylor I added the info to the video description.
If you put enough corn starch it will set in 10 minutes
I also use silicone 1 not 2 and not white, use clear only you can add color to it
To cure silicon you can't cover it with plastic it needs to be in a fresh air at leas one side.
You didn’t mix it enough. Any of it.
Sir.... why didn’t you wait a full 24 hours??? None of them are cured.
Why did you seal in wrap ? How do you think things cure?
If you watch my video on silicone orthotics, I think you'll get your answers.
Maybe, but you're doing it wrong, and these are really bad examples. I use the soapy water method all the time and it cures in a couple hours when exposed to air. You can even speed it up with a hair dryer. The setting happens when the water evaporates. You kept the water trapped, so it had no where to go. The powdered version can set in as little as 15 min when exposed to air. King of Random has a great video showing the process, look for his "proto putty" video.
If you had done what he asked and watched his other video you questions would have been answered. He is making a DIY arch support and you need it to be covered in wrap for the process.
@@bighaus224 thank you.
Need 100% silicone. Not SILICONE II
thanks.... i will make X-toys adult with this ♂♂♂
Silicone 2 will not work for a mold, only silicone 1 will.
Icing sugar Would be perfect, sweet feet.
You nullified the test by not allowing the full 24 hr cure time and reducing by one third to 16 hours. Then go on to promote one particular product. Seems like a marketing ploy to me. If you're going to test anything, test it in accordance with its full criteria/parameters and dont cut short the test by 8 hours just because you cant wait. You are misleading viewers with distorted results/findings.
it looks y are promoting rebond,i have been using( haris) sillicon mixing with corn starch with little baby oil or cooking oil ,viewers can see the results if they will try ,no sticky,no less strength,just give 12 hrs min under sun ,i have wasted my time to watch these two clips sorry to say
How in the hell is going to dry properly if you don’t let the air get to it this is not concrete you’re drying new waste my time
Please see my pinned comment above
Kaye Findley I was just saying man I apologize sir
Kaye Findley You should’ve done a test after you remove the plastic and let the air get to it
Everyone's either a critic or an expert, I understood the curing test from minute one, gave me options now . Good vid
@Kaye Findley eeeeeeeiiish boomer!