This video shows one approach to manipulating edge finish in knife sharpening. The steel sharpened is CPM M4. There is discussion on CPM M4 and CTS XHP.
M4 is one of my favorite steels to sharpen…shaman, native, para 3, sage…they’re all beautiful to sharpen in m4 and they all reliably whittle hair by 8 microns. K390, M4 and Cruwear are the three high vanadium steels in my collection that are invariably beautiful to sharpen.
Man I get so excited every time I see a new video form you. I LOVE LOVE LOVE these - thanks for taking the time to make these and share them with us. I wish I had your freehand sharpening skills. Very impressive. Have a good one!
I think I’m on to you. Your burr talk. I’ve been finding micro burrs on my edge that are almost undetectable. I have trouble removing them with strops. They are so fine that I can flip the burr with my thumb. It must be that specific type of movement you have on the stones. Plus the stones you use fill certain niches. But the secret lies in the burr. If that little micro burr isn’t removed you don’t get hair whittling longevity, you get micro rolls.
michael christy, great video as always. this one was unexpected but one i've been wanting for some time now. i see "XHP" on some really expensive production knives and could'nt figure out why. i've always thought it a really strange steel for several knives to include you're slysz bowie. so yeah, thanks again for the video, was a unexpected treat.
Glad you made another video as well. I was thinking the other day that it would be cool to see a reprofiling video from you if you ever get time. I'm doing some now on a s35vn sebenza and I struggled in the beginning but am getting it better now. Meaning I fixed my mistakes. Thanks
crf450r bullet david I used to do all my reprofiling on a machine. These days I usually do it freehand. Doing it freehand just involves knowing the angle, spending more time on a coarse stone and knowing when the angle is fully changed. Although, I think if I got something with a really obtuse angle that needed to be reprofiled, I would use a guided system (like the Tormek) to reprofile it.
I love the objective and not subjective fact that the word "burr" is mentioned multiple times in this vid. So many sharpening vids; so few people talk enough about it imho. I mean, in my humble experience, i can quickly destroy even a low-alloy carbon, tree-topping/starting-to-be-whittling blade by simply going it over a 20k suehiro and NOT flipping it from side to side and making the burr form, to the point it can't even shave hair. THAT's how destructive burrs can be and that's how quickly they can form depending on the steel. Controlling it during *every* step of the way needs to be mentioned more and i really appreciate you giving it more attention. Furthermore, if you're not already getting the recognition you deserve, i'd like to say that i highly doubt that as many people as should realize how hard it is to get it that sharp on these VERY HIGH alloy blades; not a task i'd wanna take myself unless i have to/get paid to.
I'm glad you liked the video. Identifying and controlling the burr really is an important factor in sharpening if you're looking for higher levels of sharpness.
If you're looking for a test knife for xhp, I'd go for a knife center exclusive manix. Great knife at a really great price. The xhp performs great for me!
austinundeadarmy2 I've thought about picking up that knife. I don't think I would carry it, so the question is, does wanting to do the test justify the cost? At this point, it doesn't. But I'm sure a model will pop up at some point that'll catch my eye.
I find for me the most effective technique is to go from back and forth side to side several times, perhaps half a dozen times or more depending on steel type once ive reached my finest stone to remove as much burr as possible. I generally remove all visible burr before moving to strops. Steels with high toughness like M4 require a lot of back and forth while harder more brittle steels seem to break the burr easier. I cant say my edges equal Mr Christy's but they are definitely hair popping sharp and tend to last well. Imo it all comes down to burr removal. If you dont get it all the edge fails early because that microscopic feather of steel folds over ruining the keenness. Also failure to maintain the proper angle on the stones or strops also robs the edge of that sticky sharp keenness. Ive found that putting too much pressure on the stones especially in finer grits usually trying to get that mirror finish, deforms the edge and alters the edge bevel angle enough to ruin the edge. I have to maintain constant and light pressure in those final stages to carefully weaken or thin the burr until it falls away. Too much pressure serves only to diminish the previous hard work.
brother if you had the time to but to gather guides for different steels and sharpening methods with stones diamond sprays strops and say did one a month on different steels I would buy it until I had a complete list of all the steels you have worked with thank you for the videos great job
Xhp in my experience is much better than people think it should be based on its composition. My CS ultimate hunter folder in xhp is much closer in performance to my beloved Contego and GB than any s30v I have dealt with. CPM-M4 is my favorite steel period I love its fine edge holding and ease of stropping that fine edge back after a task is completed. I do always sharpen as if I would want Yoda to trade me light saber for knife because my edge is sharper than his. I wonder if its high initial sharpness attributes to xhps much better than you think its going to be performance? Thank you for the tip on cruwear I have a military been sitting in a drawer thats going to get some love. My hap40 stretch is going to get some love also. I love steels that take a keener edge than others Elmax is one that comes to my mind I can't say how it performs as I have never tested it but I have sharpened it a few times and it gets notably sharper than most too.
funurayt050 I don’t think XHP gets surprisingly sharp after sharpening like something like M4 does. I think the unexpected edge retention has something to do with a polished edge.
Michael Christy, I agree xhp does not get sharper than M4. What I meant was the initial level of sharpness from someone like you sharpening a knife on a scale of 10 your knives are 11s or 12s. I have always thought a knife that is sharper will cut longer before it is in need of stones. I'm glad you think it is the polish my xhp is gleaming always. Your videos are awesome keep them coming. I know a few things about sharpening. Most people are in it for the knives I'm in it for sharpening. Sharpening and performance of different steels is my hobby. I've had a WE since 2010 I sharpen my high end knives on it and the lower end gets sharpened on my DMT aligner. I highly admire the fact you get the insane edges you get while hand sharpening all of mine are angle guided. Like I said love your videos keep them coming I look forward to learning from you. I know an insanely talented hand sharpener from Kalispell Montana thats my mentor and got me to where I am and as good as I am today. I'm also very thankful to call him my friend. I'm here to learn rock on sir.
Wow, using my Lansky rods seems utterly foolish after watching your skills. What’s your opinion of using a simple sharpening system like Lansky rods with a simple green compound on leather strop? Is it worth going high end steel if this is how you sharpen? I’ve never owned a knife above 440 steel.
Nick Macaluso with systems like the Lansky, there’s a lot you can learn from them. As far as green compound is concerned, if you’re not using steels with any vanadium content, it should be ok. You’d still do better with higher end compound, but it’s alright.
Sometimes I hear someone saying that any knife can be sharpened to razor edge. Even the cheapest knife. In your experience could any knife be sharpened to the same level of sharpness of the knives you showed in the video as long as the person sharpening have skill to do so? And the other question is could any knife even the cheapest be sharpened to the same level of a Cold Steel knife out the box as long you have skill or the steel limits the amount of sharpness you get?
PowerMadHeadBanger Cold Steel does a good job with their edges from what I've seen, but a good sharpener with good skill will beat Cold Steel's out of box edge. Any knife steel can be brought to a very high level of sharpness, but if you take steel A and steel B, (A and B having very different content and very different RC hardness) and sharpen both using the same stones and sharpening routine, you will get different results. Some steels are more difficult to sharpen and some come to a very sharp edge more easily.
I just got my first whetstones, and I was successful on the Japanese knifes and some 1095 scandis, but I'm not getting the edge on my M4 spyderco, what do you recommend buying for getting a hair splitting edge on m4? Dmt diamonds? The spyderco set of ceramics? I will get a strop set with diamond spray as well, just too much to choose from and you seem to have it all
Aleksander Norr Venev’s OCB diamond water stones or Practical Sharpening’s diamond water stones are great for a polished edge. DMT plates are great for a coarse finish. Just be careful with the low grits... they cut fast.
Hi, I really like your videos, I myself like sharpening a lot and I'm also experimenting with stones. My question would be, have you tried Arkansas stones for finish? Especially the black surgical? I found it gives a very strange finish which is very sharp and catching sking, but also quite polished at the same time. I couldn't get same results with artificial stones. What is your experience?
Question about the wood strop. Ken Schwartz is the only person I know that makes a polycrystalline diamond spray in 0.005 Micron. He suggests his nano cloth strop because leathers has 2 micron particles and nano cloth has none.? I take it that you are using basswood (you suggested it because it's not as pliable as balsa) and so I wonder about the size of the wood particles. Would you really be getting 0.005 micron? But results are results right? So should I get the nano cloth or just keep using the basswood? The smallest paste I have is 0.1 micron. Those other sizes are $45 each and the 0.005 is $60 I believe.
Frank Nederhand results are results... you could try the nano cloth. If those are the prices he’s willing to give you, they’ve come down since I bought them.
Michael Christy Yeah, I told him of two different websites that sold his products and he's yet to get back to me since I told them there prices. Honestly I'm new to the stroping thing so I bought a cheap set of diamond compound in 5 gram syringes off Wal-Mart.com. they say they are 5 micron stepping down to .5 micron. Then I bought a cbn emulsion of .25 micron and then bought .1 micron diamond powder and mixed it with vegetable oil as a carrier. (It didn't work that well) I then tried bearing grease and that was fun. My knife is a ZT 0350 in M390. I got it to scrape a little bit of a strand of free standing hair but to whittle the hair I had to apply tension to the hair. Anyhow. I'll get there I just need a wee more practice and to watch some more of your videos! Thank you for them, they are awesome!
What's the trick to hap40? I do Japanese kitchen knives. I have no issue getting everything out there to hair whittling sharp with my freehand sharpening. hap40 is a pain in the ass. People online talk a lot without actual experience. I'm sure you know what I mean. For instance, ZDP is not bad to sharpen at all. In general but also for the level of performance you get out of it, it's not bad at all. Wants to be sharp. Easily. HAP40 is a pain. I've never been happy with HAP40 edges. They can catch and cut hanging hairs, but they still don't feel as sharp in use. Plus the fine edge holding performance doesn't seem to be worth the extra hassle in sharpening the stuff compared to other steels. You say you like HAP40. What's the thing I need to know to get there. Thanks.
It can catch and cut a free hanging hair and doesn't feel sharp in use? I'm confused. How many hap40 knives are like this for you? Are they all by the same manufacturer? Have you sharpened the knife several times to remove some steel from the edge? I'm wondering if something is wrong with the heat treat, or if the edge was burned somewhat in grinding. I've never seen anyone make this claim, and if hap40 is done right the sharpness should come right up.
Fletch Schubert the wood I use is basswood. I buy it in the hardware store. It's usually right next to the balsa. The compound is Hand American 1 micron diamond spray. You can find it on Amazon.
Was there any benefit/uprising to the sharpness adding the gokumyo with the compound on it compared to just going straight into strops from the spyderco uf?
When you sharpened with the gokumyo with compound applied, did you see any difference in cutting performance and sharpness when on a mid vanadium steel like m4 compared to sharpening with that same stone with a knife with no vanadium in it. Is it worth it to use high grit alumina stones with diamond compound applied on high vanadium steels or it is more beneficial to do a mostly or full diamond sharpening.
cesare mantovani the PM2 I'm using here was an exclusive. It's price when I bought it was $200, but because they're no longer available, you would have to buy from the secondary market and they can be expensive. I couldn't say what the right price for it is at this point. That has to do with what people are willing to pay on the secondary market.
Michael Christy..... of course about the spending purposes of peoples but here in Europe some Usa knives are overpriced so the opinion of who have used and resharpened a speifc tool it's good point of view. thx
I find that high quality Sic stones do incredibly good with XHP. The really high level of sharpness that comes off Sic has really been impressive for me and it's become a steel that I really enjoy sharpening and a steel I really enjoy using.
I almost spit my coffee out laughing when you said a normal person would stop there .......love it
Ian mauk LOL. I didn't mean it to be funny, but now that you point it out...
As a fellow knife sharpener, respect for your sharpening skills. Very informative video. Thanks
Reinen Ruud thank you.
Some day....some day I hope to possess this level of sharpening knowledge.
El Duderino just keep enjoying sharpening.
M4 is one of my favorite steels to sharpen…shaman, native, para 3, sage…they’re all beautiful to sharpen in m4 and they all reliably whittle hair by 8 microns. K390, M4 and Cruwear are the three high vanadium steels in my collection that are invariably beautiful to sharpen.
Man I get so excited every time I see a new video form you. I LOVE LOVE LOVE these - thanks for taking the time to make these and share them with us. I wish I had your freehand sharpening skills. Very impressive. Have a good one!
Luc Albert thank you brother.
Been waiting days for a video... glad you uploaded, keep it up
Donttreadonme1001 thank you brother. It has been a little while... life got real busy there for a bit.
Michael Christy ... i understand, I truly admire your videos and have learned a lot.
Donttreadonme1001 thank you. That's great to hear.
Man, nobody unintentionally makes "perfectly functional" a sick burn quite like you, sir.
Great video. I find your journey mirrors mine in lots of ways. Thanks for sharing with the community!
ToxicityAssured thanks. Glad you liked the video.
Thanks Michael. I really appreciate what information you have to share.
45acpP90 thanks.
Very thoughtful vid. I don’t know how I missed it when it first came out.
I think I’m on to you. Your burr talk. I’ve been finding micro burrs on my edge that are almost undetectable. I have trouble removing them with strops. They are so fine that I can flip the burr with my thumb. It must be that specific type of movement you have on the stones. Plus the stones you use fill certain niches. But the secret lies in the burr. If that little micro burr isn’t removed you don’t get hair whittling longevity, you get micro rolls.
michael christy, great video as always. this one was unexpected but one i've been wanting for some time now. i see "XHP" on some really expensive production knives and could'nt figure out why. i've always thought it a really strange steel for several knives to include you're slysz bowie. so yeah, thanks again for the video, was a unexpected treat.
Great video, Michael! Interesting points raised.
I agree totally on the Superblue...man that stuff will get crazy sharp.
Jeffrey Weber thank you. Superblue does sharpen nicely.
Glad you made another video as well. I was thinking the other day that it would be cool to see a reprofiling video from you if you ever get time. I'm doing some now on a s35vn sebenza and I struggled in the beginning but am getting it better now. Meaning I fixed my mistakes. Thanks
crf450r bullet david I used to do all my reprofiling on a machine. These days I usually do it freehand. Doing it freehand just involves knowing the angle, spending more time on a coarse stone and knowing when the angle is fully changed. Although, I think if I got something with a really obtuse angle that needed to be reprofiled, I would use a guided system (like the Tormek) to reprofile it.
I have really grown to absolutely love XHP.
I love the objective and not subjective fact that the word "burr" is mentioned multiple times in this vid. So many sharpening vids; so few people talk enough about it imho. I mean, in my humble experience, i can quickly destroy even a low-alloy carbon, tree-topping/starting-to-be-whittling blade by simply going it over a 20k suehiro and NOT flipping it from side to side and making the burr form, to the point it can't even shave hair. THAT's how destructive burrs can be and that's how quickly they can form depending on the steel. Controlling it during *every* step of the way needs to be mentioned more and i really appreciate you giving it more attention. Furthermore, if you're not already getting the recognition you deserve, i'd like to say that i highly doubt that as many people as should realize how hard it is to get it that sharp on these VERY HIGH alloy blades; not a task i'd wanna take myself unless i have to/get paid to.
I'm glad you liked the video. Identifying and controlling the burr really is an important factor in sharpening if you're looking for higher levels of sharpness.
Another informative and entertaining video, thanks.
James Miller thanks. Glad you liked the video.
If you're looking for a test knife for xhp, I'd go for a knife center exclusive manix. Great knife at a really great price. The xhp performs great for me!
austinundeadarmy2 I've thought about picking up that knife. I don't think I would carry it, so the question is, does wanting to do the test justify the cost? At this point, it doesn't. But I'm sure a model will pop up at some point that'll catch my eye.
I find for me the most effective technique is to go from back and forth side to side several times, perhaps half a dozen times or more depending on steel type once ive reached my finest stone to remove as much burr as possible. I generally remove all visible burr before moving to strops.
Steels with high toughness like M4 require a lot of back and forth while harder more brittle steels seem to break the burr easier.
I cant say my edges equal Mr Christy's but they are definitely hair popping sharp and tend to last well.
Imo it all comes down to burr removal. If you dont get it all the edge fails early because that microscopic feather of steel folds over ruining the keenness.
Also failure to maintain the proper angle on the stones or strops also robs the edge of that sticky sharp keenness.
Ive found that putting too much pressure on the stones especially in finer grits usually trying to get that mirror finish, deforms the edge and alters the edge bevel angle enough to ruin the edge.
I have to maintain constant and light pressure in those final stages to carefully weaken or thin the burr until it falls away. Too much pressure serves only to diminish the previous hard work.
great video....
Dee Clinton thank you.
brother if you had the time to but to gather guides for different steels and sharpening methods with stones diamond sprays strops and say did one a month on different steels I would buy it until I had a complete list of all the steels you have worked with thank you for the videos great job
James Case thanks. Glad you liked the video.
Xhp in my experience is much better than people think it should be based on its composition. My CS ultimate hunter folder in xhp is much closer in performance to my beloved Contego and GB than any s30v I have dealt with. CPM-M4 is my favorite steel period I love its fine edge holding and ease of stropping that fine edge back after a task is completed. I do always sharpen as if I would want Yoda to trade me light saber for knife because my edge is sharper than his. I wonder if its high initial sharpness attributes to xhps much better than you think its going to be performance?
Thank you for the tip on cruwear I have a military been sitting in a drawer thats going to get some love. My hap40 stretch is going to get some love also. I love steels that take a keener edge than others Elmax is one that comes to my mind I can't say how it performs as I have never tested it but I have sharpened it a few times and it gets notably sharper than most too.
funurayt050 I don’t think XHP gets surprisingly sharp after sharpening like something like M4 does. I think the unexpected edge retention has something to do with a polished edge.
Michael Christy, I agree xhp does not get sharper than M4. What I meant was the initial level of sharpness from someone like you sharpening a knife on a scale of 10 your knives are 11s or 12s. I have always thought a knife that is sharper will cut longer before it is in need of stones. I'm glad you think it is the polish my xhp is gleaming always.
Your videos are awesome keep them coming. I know a few things about sharpening. Most people are in it for the knives I'm in it for sharpening. Sharpening and performance of different steels is my hobby. I've had a WE since 2010 I sharpen my high end knives on it and the lower end gets sharpened on my DMT aligner. I highly admire the fact you get the insane edges you get while hand sharpening all of mine are angle guided. Like I said love your videos keep them coming I look forward to learning from you. I know an insanely talented hand sharpener from Kalispell Montana thats my mentor and got me to where I am and as good as I am today. I'm also very thankful to call him my friend. I'm here to learn rock on sir.
How do you like the orange whetstone with the black plastic base, it's near your right elbow😋 Is it a ADAEE or RUIXIN stone?
Do you think that a jump from 1500 grit diamond stone to a spyderco ultra fine is too big of a jump for steels say up to s110v??
Andrew Thompson no, I think that jump is fine.
Michael Christy, even for high polishing?
Andrew Thompson no, or for high polishing. For sharpening to an aggressive edge, yes.
Wow, using my Lansky rods seems utterly foolish after watching your skills. What’s your opinion of using a simple sharpening system like Lansky rods with a simple green compound on leather strop? Is it worth going high end steel if this is how you sharpen? I’ve never owned a knife above 440 steel.
Nick Macaluso with systems like the Lansky, there’s a lot you can learn from them.
As far as green compound is concerned, if you’re not using steels with any vanadium content, it should be ok. You’d still do better with higher end compound, but it’s alright.
Sometimes I hear someone saying that any knife can be sharpened to razor edge. Even the cheapest knife. In your experience could any knife be sharpened to the same level of sharpness of the knives you showed in the video as long as the person sharpening have skill to do so? And the other question is could any knife even the cheapest be sharpened to the same level of a Cold Steel knife out the box as long you have skill or the steel limits the amount of sharpness you get?
PowerMadHeadBanger Cold Steel does a good job with their edges from what I've seen, but a good sharpener with good skill will beat Cold Steel's out of box edge.
Any knife steel can be brought to a very high level of sharpness, but if you take steel A and steel B, (A and B having very different content and very different RC hardness) and sharpen both using the same stones and sharpening routine, you will get different results.
Some steels are more difficult to sharpen and some come to a very sharp edge more easily.
I just got my first whetstones, and I was successful on the Japanese knifes and some 1095 scandis, but I'm not getting the edge on my M4 spyderco, what do you recommend buying for getting a hair splitting edge on m4? Dmt diamonds? The spyderco set of ceramics? I will get a strop set with diamond spray as well, just too much to choose from and you seem to have it all
Aleksander Norr Venev’s OCB diamond water stones or Practical Sharpening’s diamond water stones are great for a polished edge. DMT plates are great for a coarse finish. Just be careful with the low grits... they cut fast.
@@michaelchristy4982 thank you!
Hi, I really like your videos, I myself like sharpening a lot and I'm also experimenting with stones. My question would be, have you tried Arkansas stones for finish? Especially the black surgical? I found it gives a very strange finish which is very sharp and catching sking, but also quite polished at the same time. I couldn't get same results with artificial stones. What is your experience?
Luka Mosashvili I haven't used Arkansas stones in years. Maybe I should order some and put some steel to them to see what my current thoughts are.
Question about the wood strop. Ken Schwartz is the only person I know that makes a polycrystalline diamond spray in 0.005 Micron. He suggests his nano cloth strop because leathers has 2 micron particles and nano cloth has none.? I take it that you are using basswood (you suggested it because it's not as pliable as balsa) and so I wonder about the size of the wood particles. Would you really be getting 0.005 micron? But results are results right? So should I get the nano cloth or just keep using the basswood? The smallest paste I have is 0.1 micron. Those other sizes are $45 each and the 0.005 is $60 I believe.
Frank Nederhand results are results...
you could try the nano cloth.
If those are the prices he’s willing to give you, they’ve come down since I bought them.
Michael Christy Yeah, I told him of two different websites that sold his products and he's yet to get back to me since I told them there prices. Honestly I'm new to the stroping thing so I bought a cheap set of diamond compound in 5 gram syringes off Wal-Mart.com. they say they are 5 micron stepping down to .5 micron. Then I bought a cbn emulsion of .25 micron and then bought .1 micron diamond powder and mixed it with vegetable oil as a carrier. (It didn't work that well) I then tried bearing grease and that was fun. My knife is a ZT 0350 in M390. I got it to scrape a little bit of a strand of free standing hair but to whittle the hair I had to apply tension to the hair. Anyhow. I'll get there I just need a wee more practice and to watch some more of your videos! Thank you for them, they are awesome!
What's the trick to hap40? I do Japanese kitchen knives. I have no issue getting everything out there to hair whittling sharp with my freehand sharpening. hap40 is a pain in the ass. People online talk a lot without actual experience. I'm sure you know what I mean. For instance, ZDP is not bad to sharpen at all. In general but also for the level of performance you get out of it, it's not bad at all. Wants to be sharp. Easily. HAP40 is a pain. I've never been happy with HAP40 edges. They can catch and cut hanging hairs, but they still don't feel as sharp in use. Plus the fine edge holding performance doesn't seem to be worth the extra hassle in sharpening the stuff compared to other steels. You say you like HAP40. What's the thing I need to know to get there. Thanks.
It can catch and cut a free hanging hair and doesn't feel sharp in use?
I'm confused. How many hap40 knives are like this for you? Are they all by the same manufacturer? Have you sharpened the knife several times to remove some steel from the edge?
I'm wondering if something is wrong with the heat treat, or if the edge was burned somewhat in grinding. I've never seen anyone make this claim, and if hap40 is done right the sharpness should come right up.
Where can I get that 1 micron wood strop? All I have is a knives plus preloaded green compound strop.
Fletch Schubert the wood I use is basswood. I buy it in the hardware store. It's usually right next to the balsa. The compound is Hand American 1 micron diamond spray. You can find it on Amazon.
Michael which Suehiro stone did you use with the .5 micron spray in this vid? And where did you purchase it?
dannie carmona 20K Suehiro. I bought it from Ken Schwartz.
@@michaelchristy4982 Thank you i hope i didn't wake you up
dannie carmona no, I was up.
Have you tried burr free sharpening?
Yehoshua D. Stone I’ve done it, but I don’t make it a common practice.
Was there any benefit/uprising to the sharpness adding the gokumyo with the compound on it compared to just going straight into strops from the spyderco uf?
When you sharpened with the gokumyo with compound applied, did you see any difference in cutting performance and sharpness when on a mid vanadium steel like m4 compared to sharpening with that same stone with a knife with no vanadium in it.
Is it worth it to use high grit alumina stones with diamond compound applied on high vanadium steels or it is more beneficial to do a mostly or full diamond sharpening.
Hey Michael, I was wanting to ask do you have any experience with Atoma-diamond stones? Really like to hear your opinions before I make a purchase.
Hi, What is the right price for pm2 cpm-m4 in your opinion considering matirials and assemlin? Thx
cesare mantovani the PM2 I'm using here was an exclusive. It's price when I bought it was $200, but because they're no longer available, you would have to buy from the secondary market and they can be expensive. I couldn't say what the right price for it is at this point. That has to do with what people are willing to pay on the secondary market.
Michael Christy..... of course about the spending purposes of peoples but here in Europe some Usa knives are overpriced so the opinion of who have used and resharpened a speifc tool it's good point of view. thx
cesare mantovani didn't realize you were in Europe. I've heard the prices can get high there.
Whittling hair isn’t good enough. You’ve definitely have high expectations. Love it!
I find that high quality Sic stones do incredibly good with XHP. The really high level of sharpness that comes off Sic has really been impressive for me and it's become a steel that I really enjoy sharpening and a steel I really enjoy using.