Cruwear is amoung my fav steels to Sharpen. It's really really lovely on the stones when it's done well, the keenness that a fresh edge has is absolutely amazing with cruwear. As you said "it's a sharpeners steel" it isn't picky on edge finish and it does great at very low angles. I really love sharpening cruwear.
Great video. I was especially glad that you brought up the impact that sharpening has on a blade. There are alot of folks in the knife community that bypass that and look for only edge geometry and/ or hrc.
I moved on the knife center native in cruwear over the delica bcuz they did drop at the same time. What strikes me the most about the delica is how ergonomic the handle really is and how well it carries. I carry mine in my boot and even without the pocket clip on the knife it remains comfortable in my hand. I've only sharpened my native once and i took it to a high polish for fun. Normally my preferred finish is much coarser but I am still experimenting. For me the fun of this hobby is sharpening and I do agree its overlooked by a growing crowd. I'm in the minority outcasts who gave up the use of strops years ago. I've carried multiple knives with variety of edge finishes and edge angles for years bcuz multiple choice is a beautiful thing. Carrying one knife for me is limiting and matching the tool for the task makes sense. I too classify my carry options in a similar fashion, variety after all is the spice of life. My native will be headed towards Kurt for rockwell testing, the batch I sent him yesterday doesnt have it.
This is one of the best smaller knives in my collection. A highly sought-after steel on an acclaimed model…unless you’re just not a spyderco guy, there’s not much to argue with there. I don’t even particularly like the delica (I’m more of an endura/endela/police carrier) but man…this and the k390 delica are bloody dynamite.
@@newhuskytwenty Extreme edge holding doesn’t really matter to me. Steels like k390 and cruwear can be made ridiculously sharp and in the case of cruwear, with VERY little effort. Edge retention is one of things that people obsess over too much. Steels with high edge stability and ease of maintenance will always win for me
Very cool points u hit in this video. Just because u see a tester get an awesome result out of a certain steel. That doesn’t mean your knife will do the exact same thing, but it is a result in which your knife is capable of if sharpened the same way. Considering a few things like HT/HRC but very cool stuff 👊👍
Thanks for video Mike!: I thought putting Cruwear on a small light duty knife like the Delica was weird. The Shaman, PM2, P3, And Manix 2 seemed more suitable for a tough steel like Cruwear. But after watching your video it makes more sense to me and I realize the Delica is not as dainty as I thought. Great job as usual.
Knife Video Channel thanks, and I agree with you... I like the idea of CruWear on the Shaman, PM2, PM3 etc. I just think it also sits well on a small slicer.
@@michaelchristy4982 Did you hear about the two Shaman variants (Natural Micarta Cruwear and Rex 45 Rosewood ) that were supposedly leaked at the USN Show? Both sound awesome. ..
I also choose my carry based on purpose. I often have to cut into boxes containing edge-destroying materials. But I also cut up food to eat - fruit, vegetables, etc. So I typically have 2 carries.
Man I really hate I missed these. Bento box has some for a premium. Might have to eat some shit and order them for 50 dollars extra. Also, diamond water stones? Man so much has changed since I’ve been gone. I need to try those.
@@jmarsh667 good with lateral stress. Makes for a great, corrosion resistant camp knife. Bark River has great heat treat on their Cru-Wear. No chips or rolls ever when carving wood or cutting thru bone when cleaning game
@@brose04008 easier to sharpen in the field. 4V will chip with hard use. Bark Rivers heat treat on the 3V will never chip when woodworking or cleaning game. The most I seen was a lil roll on the edge. U gotta sharpen 4V and 10V after hard use. 3V only needs a 30 second stropping and its shaving again.
I like the Caly Jr the way it is though. It's my favorite in the house basketball shorts carry because it's so light. Adding liners would make it heavier.
@@michaelchristy4982 yes. I have a few. Regular VG10, M390 and Cruwear. I love the Delica but I don't want the Caly Jr. to get heavier as it makes it too similar to the Delica in weight if you add liners I think. I appreciate how it's much lighter than the Delica. It's only a few grams heavier than a SpyDK with the benefit of a lock. And for some reason it opens way smoother than a Delica.
Nice video Michael! Glad I picked up a Cruwear Delica too even though on the small side. I also frequently carry a small slicer as well as a bigger harder use blade. Really hoping there will be a matching Cruwear Endura Exclusive! On a side note: I'm looking seriously at the Venev 6"x1" OCB stones. Set of 3 with dual sided (6 different grits). I find the Spyderco Doublestuff is a nice size for freehand sharpening. Would appreciate your thoughts on stone size. Thanks!
@@michaelchristy4982 was hoping you might give some thoughts on pros and cons of small vs large stones in use. I see that you use a broad spectrum of sizes and abrasives among your stones.
Joshua Briggs sometimes smaller stones make things affordable. That’s the main advantage I see in them. Of course, there is the idea of pocket stones, but I don’t think that’s what you were asking about.
Cru-Wear is great. I like the mild patina that forms It’s not anywhere near as tough as 3V despite some claims, but plenty tough for moderately heavy use IMHO. The Bravo I batons through wood just fine in my experience
Wow you put Diamond spray right on the stone? Thats really interesting. I love your content. And i totally agree you always need a slicer and also something bigger. Screw a one tool option. I want the best option lol
Hey Michael, some time ago, you had a small, red stone in a video just in passing. I believe I've experimented a bit with similar stones (purportedly sintered ruby). I wondered if you had any thoughts. Any good or am i just burnishing?
I have a knife in s90v. I know you like to work the ultra fine ceramic between the diamond stone and strops. What is your finishing diamond stone grit? What is your beginning strop micron? Can I skip the ultra fine in the middle? Thanks for your knowledge of the craft!
Mike, regarding sharpening and coarse or polished (13:00 manila rope emulating animal hide), is it fair to say if you go through sharpening progressions, past coarse to polished when you begin cutting your going to eventually cut the blade down to a coarse finish and all those cuts while done with a polished edge would count toward the polished finishing ahead of coarse? That extra effort of continuing to sharpen to .001 micron may be futile in a rope cut tray but eventually the blade would get to where the coarse blade starts so those are additional cuts, no? Correct me please if I'm wrong. I don't want to win a debate, I want to take advantage of your skill and expertise on the subject. Thanks
@@michaelchristy4982👍🏼 Just what I needed to hear! Thanks for the correction. Unless theres a good reason not to I'll take experience over predictions 9 /10 times. Not to leech your repository of experience all at once but I was slicing > 10 empty liquor and beer case cardboard boxes after my bar closed (one of many bouncer privileges) and noticed my 14c28n Blur blade was hot to the touch. Is blade temp a factor when CB testing or does CB not offer enough resistance to create a temp that would effect the steel detramentally. Your videos helped me explain to a BBQ pit master why his edges had multiple chips throughout my attempts to sharpen his chef knife with dual grit water stone and >1500 grit Arkansas stone. I kept getting chips and asked if he left his knife on the grill for any period to which he replied sometimes... Anyway thanks for sharing your experiences and methods. My left forearm hair grows so healthy as a result lol.
@@michaelchristy4982 I really appreciate you taking time to share these nuggets of wisdom. I always look forward to your insight and methods of sharpening. How you dont have 100k subscribers is a mystery. For quality hair whittling inclusive angled edge porn without the politics, or pretending to not know something and asking for viewers to leave comments antics, I thank you!
I have just recently stumbled upon your channel, really enjoying the content. Wondering which model Spyderco is your favorite EDC I understand you rotate what you carry, I've been looking for a good folder, and would appreciate the insight. Also what would a complete sharpening system stones thru stops look like if you were going to make a recommendation? Thank you for any feedback.
Robert Cesena get a PM2 in whatever flavor of steel you want. The stones depends on the desired finish. Strops... at least a 4 and 1 micron (good quality) on leather.
@@michaelchristy4982 Thanks for the feedback. Watching your videos has really inspired me to hone my sharpening skills, which after watching your videos, I could only rate as sub par. Watching you shave hair in the manner in which you consistently do, my aim is to shoot for a high quality razor edge even working toward that mirror finish you get on your blades. Also I will be purchasing a dedicated practice blade in 8 Cr13 Mov. Understanding now that higher quality knives with increased vanadium and tungsten will require diamond stones to cut the carbide in them, and an interest in Rex 45 steel having watched your review video with the PM 2 and PM 3 I plan on investing in some diamond stone's. Even though most of my blades are in CPM 3V and Cruwear. If you have any suggestions on specific products. My thinking is how can I get a high quality sharpening on my blades without the guess work. I understand that it will greatly depend on my skillet as well, but I'm interested in investing toward that higher level system. Thank you.
Robert Cesena if you want a polished edge, my suggestion would be the OCB Venev diamond water stones. If you want a coarser finish, you should grab some DMT plates.
Out of all the diamond based stones you've used are the venev stone you're favorite? You've used them quite a lot in your videos and you usually have nothing but good things about them. I purchased a set of DMT plates to sharpen my para2 in S30v and my BM Freek in M4. They get sharp and they keep it for quite a long time especially the M4 but they don't take a very high polish with these plates. I'm not sure if its me or the stones tho
Juan Ramm DMT plates don’t really produce a polish. From what I’ve seen, I think Venev’s OCB stones and the vitrified diamond water stones from Practical Sharpening are the best diamond water stones on the market. To me, both of these products are different then plates, so comparing them is apples to oranges.
Yo mike your killin me brotha............ we need to see more of you......... too many hammerheads out there don’t know what the fuck there talking about!!!!!! Thanks we love ya........
never stood a chancexx I really don’t do anything to prevent it on steel’s like CruWear. It’s never an issue for me. But if it’s an issue for you, I suggest Froglube. I’ve bought it off Amazon
Michael Christy / valebliz DMT extra coarse, coarse, fine, extra fine, and a knivesplus strip block. I often skip extra coarse and extra fine, most knives don’t need the former and I’m still getting used to dmt and don’t get enough feedback on the ultra fine.
@@aaronkahn-bork1120 could be the DMT fine is a bit aggressive as a final step and gives you a big burr. In my experience cru wear behaves more or less like a "basic" carbon steel, i sharpen it on alluminium based whetstones with no problems. (1000, 3000 and 8000 grit, then strops)
Aaron Kahn-Bork the Knivesplus strop block is a fairly soft strop. You need a harder strop with diamond compound. It’s not necessary to have diamond in this case due to carbide, but diamond still cuts more aggressively then the green compound. You want a smooth leather strop with a firm surface and some poly diamond emulsion. That will change the game for you.
The title is wrong. You just say the model, you forgot to say “sharpening and review”. I assume there is sharpening. I haven’t watched all the way through but there better be sharpening
Sharpening to a knife is like tires to a car. You could have an amazing super car but if you put off road tires on it you're not going to get the most out of it. Same with goes with sharpening a knife.
It’s great listening to knowledgeable knife talk
Your knife videos are easily the best I have seen. Thank you and please keep them coming. The Spyderco vids are my favorite.
I picked up the native 5 in cru to go along with my pm2.
Cru is definitely in my top 5 steels.
The Ultimate Knife 🔪
BBB - Builds The Knife
Micheal Christy - Sharpens it
That thing could split an atom!
I love to soak in all this incredible knowledge.
Thank you
Cruwear is amoung my fav steels to Sharpen. It's really really lovely on the stones when it's done well, the keenness that a fresh edge has is absolutely amazing with cruwear. As you said "it's a sharpeners steel" it isn't picky on edge finish and it does great at very low angles. I really love sharpening cruwear.
Got a Para 2 in cru wear, super pleased with it and gets hair witthling fairly easily
I was FINALLY able to get my Maxamet manix 2 LW to hair whittling sharp. And I owe this to your instructions. Thanks!
Great video. Always a pleasure to watch and learn. Thanks for all of the info.
Great video. I was especially glad that you brought up the impact that sharpening has on a blade. There are alot of folks in the knife community that bypass that and look for only edge geometry and/ or hrc.
Pertinent discussion on the edge type being appropriate for the medium. Interesting facts regarding rope cut tests and skinning, thanks for sharing.
I moved on the knife center native in cruwear over the delica bcuz they did drop at the same time. What strikes me the most about the delica is how ergonomic the handle really is and how well it carries. I carry mine in my boot and even without the pocket clip on the knife it remains comfortable in my hand. I've only sharpened my native once and i took it to a high polish for fun. Normally my preferred finish is much coarser but I am still experimenting. For me the fun of this hobby is sharpening and I do agree its overlooked by a growing crowd. I'm in the minority outcasts who gave up the use of strops years ago. I've carried multiple knives with variety of edge finishes and edge angles for years bcuz multiple choice is a beautiful thing. Carrying one knife for me is limiting and matching the tool for the task makes sense. I too classify my carry options in a similar fashion, variety after all is the spice of life. My native will be headed towards Kurt for rockwell testing, the batch I sent him yesterday doesnt have it.
STeeL ToeZ83 that’s a nice, in depth comment. Thanks for posting.
Got my 2 favorite steels in hand there at 3:45! Great video, Michael!
This is one of the best smaller knives in my collection. A highly sought-after steel on an acclaimed model…unless you’re just not a spyderco guy, there’s not much to argue with there. I don’t even particularly like the delica (I’m more of an endura/endela/police carrier) but man…this and the k390 delica are bloody dynamite.
I have Delicas in CPM S90V, K390 and ZDP-189, in which aspect would you put CruWear first? Toughness? Edge holding definitely not.
@@newhuskytwenty
Extreme edge holding doesn’t really matter to me. Steels like k390 and cruwear can be made ridiculously sharp and in the case of cruwear, with VERY little effort. Edge retention is one of things that people obsess over too much. Steels with high edge stability and ease of maintenance will always win for me
Very cool points u hit in this video.
Just because u see a tester get an awesome result out of a certain steel. That doesn’t mean your knife will do the exact same thing, but it is a result in which your knife is capable of if sharpened the same way. Considering a few things like HT/HRC but very cool stuff 👊👍
Thanks for video Mike!: I thought putting Cruwear on a small light duty knife like the Delica was weird. The Shaman, PM2, P3, And Manix 2 seemed more suitable for a tough steel like Cruwear.
But after watching your video it makes more sense to me and I realize the Delica is not as dainty as I thought. Great job as usual.
Knife Video Channel thanks, and I agree with you... I like the idea of CruWear on the Shaman, PM2, PM3 etc. I just think it also sits well on a small slicer.
@@michaelchristy4982 Did you hear about the two Shaman variants (Natural Micarta Cruwear and Rex 45 Rosewood ) that were supposedly leaked at the USN Show? Both sound awesome. ..
Knife Video Channel both do sound awesome.
I also choose my carry based on purpose. I often have to cut into boxes containing edge-destroying materials. But I also cut up food to eat - fruit, vegetables, etc. So I typically have 2 carries.
I was the one who asked you on IG to do a video on the Caly Jr. Cool!
Right on, Mike, excellent points. And nice knife!
Not a big spyderco guy these days, but they do have the steels that everyone wants. Hope for an endella in super blue. Never tried either
Matthew Forrest an Endela in SB would be great.
Man I really hate I missed these. Bento box has some for a premium. Might have to eat some shit and order them for 50 dollars extra. Also, diamond water stones? Man so much has changed since I’ve been gone. I need to try those.
Yeah spyderco please do another run in Aogami Super Blue especially the caly 3 and 3.5
Top 3 steels for me
1. Cru-Wear
2. ZDP-189
3. 3V
Mos Matic Good choices. Why 3V above some of the others of the V series? Just picking your brain here.
brose04008 great toughness and it’s very widely available in a wide price range
Why do u like cru-wear so much?
@@jmarsh667 good with lateral stress. Makes for a great, corrosion resistant camp knife. Bark River has great heat treat on their Cru-Wear. No chips or rolls ever when carving wood or cutting thru bone when cleaning game
@@brose04008 easier to sharpen in the field. 4V will chip with hard use. Bark Rivers heat treat on the 3V will never chip when woodworking or cleaning game. The most I seen was a lil roll on the edge. U gotta sharpen 4V and 10V after hard use. 3V only needs a 30 second stropping and its shaving again.
Now I'd like to find a comp. between CPM and S1110V.
I like the Caly Jr the way it is though. It's my favorite in the house basketball shorts carry because it's so light. Adding liners would make it heavier.
corismsyn have you tried a Delica?
@@michaelchristy4982 yes. I have a few. Regular VG10, M390 and Cruwear. I love the Delica but I don't want the Caly Jr. to get heavier as it makes it too similar to the Delica in weight if you add liners I think. I appreciate how it's much lighter than the Delica. It's only a few grams heavier than a SpyDK with the benefit of a lock. And for some reason it opens way smoother than a Delica.
corismsyn have you tried a Chaparral?
@@michaelchristy4982 I've handled it but haven't owned one. Seemed fairly nice.
Still waiting for the Endura in Cruwear...
I second that
Yes more super blue please Spyderco. Maybe redo the original calypso in it.
Nice video Michael! Glad I picked up a Cruwear Delica too even though on the small side. I also frequently carry a small slicer as well as a bigger harder use blade. Really hoping there will be a matching Cruwear Endura Exclusive!
On a side note: I'm looking seriously at the Venev 6"x1" OCB stones. Set of 3 with dual sided (6 different grits). I find the Spyderco Doublestuff is a nice size for freehand sharpening. Would appreciate your thoughts on stone size. Thanks!
Joshua Briggs 1x6 is great if you like that size.
@@michaelchristy4982 was hoping you might give some thoughts on pros and cons of small vs large stones in use. I see that you use a broad spectrum of sizes and abrasives among your stones.
Joshua Briggs sometimes smaller stones make things affordable. That’s the main advantage I see in them. Of course, there is the idea of pocket stones, but I don’t think that’s what you were asking about.
@@michaelchristy4982 thanks for the reply. Cost does seem to be the major benefit.
Joshua Briggs if you can handle using a 1x6, it can save you a lot of money.
Cru-Wear is great. I like the mild patina that forms
It’s not anywhere near as tough as 3V despite some claims, but plenty tough for moderately heavy use IMHO. The Bravo I batons through wood just fine in my experience
Wow you put Diamond spray right on the stone? Thats really interesting. I love your content. And i totally agree you always need a slicer and also something bigger. Screw a one tool option. I want the best option lol
Enjoyed the video, very intersting.
Do you prefer a K390 Delica over that CPM CruWear Delica? Why?
Man..I wish I could get a knife that sharp!!
Hey Michael, some time ago, you had a small, red stone in a video just in passing. I believe I've experimented a bit with similar stones (purportedly sintered ruby). I wondered if you had any thoughts. Any good or am i just burnishing?
dfailsthemost those were inexpensive stones I bought on Amazon. At this point, I haven’t used them in years.
@@michaelchristy4982 Yeah, I just got a couple out of curiosity since they were so low cost. Thanks.
I have a knife in s90v. I know you like to work the ultra fine ceramic between the diamond stone and strops. What is your finishing diamond stone grit? What is your beginning strop micron? Can I skip the ultra fine in the middle? Thanks for your knowledge of the craft!
Mike, regarding sharpening and coarse or polished (13:00 manila rope emulating animal hide), is it fair to say if you go through sharpening progressions, past coarse to polished when you begin cutting your going to eventually cut the blade down to a coarse finish and all those cuts while done with a polished edge would count toward the polished finishing ahead of coarse? That extra effort of continuing to sharpen to .001 micron may be futile in a rope cut tray but eventually the blade would get to where the coarse blade starts so those are additional cuts, no?
Correct me please if I'm wrong. I don't want to win a debate, I want to take advantage of your skill and expertise on the subject.
Thanks
Chilly Mike Tube it sounds like you’re suggesting that an edge breaks down to a coarse finish, and that’s not the case.
@@michaelchristy4982👍🏼 Just what I needed to hear! Thanks for the correction. Unless theres a good reason not to I'll take experience over predictions 9 /10 times.
Not to leech your repository of experience all at once but I was slicing > 10 empty liquor and beer case cardboard boxes after my bar closed (one of many bouncer privileges) and noticed my 14c28n Blur blade was hot to the touch. Is blade temp a factor when CB testing or does CB not offer enough resistance to create a temp that would effect the steel detramentally. Your videos helped me explain to a BBQ pit master why his edges had multiple chips throughout my attempts to sharpen his chef knife with dual grit water stone and >1500 grit Arkansas stone. I kept getting chips and asked if he left his knife on the grill for any period to which he replied sometimes... Anyway thanks for sharing your experiences and methods. My left forearm hair grows so healthy as a result lol.
Chilly Mike Tube the heat produced from CB won’t hurt the blade. I’ve run into that a bunch of times as well.
@@michaelchristy4982 I really appreciate you taking time to share these nuggets of wisdom. I always look forward to your insight and methods of sharpening. How you dont have 100k subscribers is a mystery. For quality hair whittling inclusive angled edge porn without the politics, or pretending to not know something and asking for viewers to leave comments antics, I thank you!
This is like the s90v military cf titanium. You wanted it before it even existed...
I have just recently stumbled upon your channel, really enjoying the content. Wondering which model Spyderco is your favorite EDC I understand you rotate what you carry, I've been looking for a good folder, and would appreciate the insight. Also what would a complete sharpening system stones thru stops look like if you were going to make a recommendation? Thank you for any feedback.
Robert Cesena get a PM2 in whatever flavor of steel you want. The stones depends on the desired finish. Strops... at least a 4 and 1 micron (good quality) on leather.
@@michaelchristy4982
Thanks for the feedback. Watching your videos has really inspired me to hone my sharpening skills, which after watching your videos, I could only rate as sub par. Watching you shave hair in the manner in which you consistently do, my aim is to shoot for a high quality razor edge even working toward that mirror finish you get on your blades. Also I will be purchasing a dedicated practice blade in 8 Cr13 Mov. Understanding now that higher quality knives with increased vanadium and tungsten will require diamond stones to cut the carbide in them, and an interest in Rex 45 steel having watched your review video with the PM 2 and PM 3 I plan on investing in some diamond stone's. Even though most of my blades are in CPM 3V and Cruwear. If you have any suggestions on specific products. My thinking is how can I get a high quality sharpening on my blades without the guess work. I understand that it will greatly depend on my skillet as well, but I'm interested in investing toward that higher level system. Thank you.
Robert Cesena if you want a polished edge, my suggestion would be the OCB Venev diamond water stones.
If you want a coarser finish, you should grab some DMT plates.
Out of all the diamond based stones you've used are the venev stone you're favorite? You've used them quite a lot in your videos and you usually have nothing but good things about them. I purchased a set of DMT plates to sharpen my para2 in S30v and my BM Freek in M4. They get sharp and they keep it for quite a long time especially the M4 but they don't take a very high polish with these plates. I'm not sure if its me or the stones tho
Juan Ramm DMT plates don’t really produce a polish. From what I’ve seen, I think Venev’s OCB stones and the vitrified diamond water stones from Practical Sharpening are the best diamond water stones on the market. To me, both of these products are different then plates, so comparing them is apples to oranges.
@@michaelchristy4982 Thank you, always appreciate the advice. Glad to hear it's the stones and not my technique lol.
Yo mike your killin me brotha............ we need to see more of you......... too many hammerheads out there don’t know what the fuck there talking about!!!!!! Thanks we love ya........
Have you used the stones on a much harder steel?
Mick Keim when I reviewed the stones, I used S90V. And I just did a sharpening video using S110V.
How do you keep your blades from rusting
never stood a chancexx I really don’t do anything to prevent it on steel’s like CruWear. It’s never an issue for me. But if it’s an issue for you, I suggest Froglube. I’ve bought it off Amazon
What you did to that hair was INSANE. (Felt that someone had to voice that)
Nick Macaluso thank you.
I have to try superblue
Everyone says cruwear is easy but I’ve been having the absolute worst time with it when it comes to burr removal... any advice?
What do you sharpen on?
Aaron Kahn-Bork what stones and strops are you using?
Michael Christy / valebliz
DMT extra coarse, coarse, fine, extra fine, and a knivesplus strip block. I often skip extra coarse and extra fine, most knives don’t need the former and I’m still getting used to dmt and don’t get enough feedback on the ultra fine.
@@aaronkahn-bork1120 could be the DMT fine is a bit aggressive as a final step and gives you a big burr. In my experience cru wear behaves more or less like a "basic" carbon steel, i sharpen it on alluminium based whetstones with no problems. (1000, 3000 and 8000 grit, then strops)
Aaron Kahn-Bork the Knivesplus strop block is a fairly soft strop. You need a harder strop with diamond compound. It’s not necessary to have diamond in this case due to carbide, but diamond still cuts more aggressively then the green compound.
You want a smooth leather strop with a firm surface and some poly diamond emulsion. That will change the game for you.
Love the content, hoping you could answer a question; Why is my knife developing a recurve after sharpening several times?
Are you using a work sharp electric sharpener? With the belts.
The title is wrong. You just say the model, you forgot to say “sharpening and review”. I assume there is sharpening. I haven’t watched all the way through but there better be sharpening
What about carbide tear out?
Cruwear is mostly Chromium Carbide
Big Brown Bear thanks
49Giants there’s not enough vanadium carbide in the steel for it to make a noticeable difference.
Michael Christy thank you very much
"A little light in the ass"... haha... classic
Sharpening to a knife is like tires to a car. You could have an amazing super car but if you put off road tires on it you're not going to get the most out of it. Same with goes with sharpening a knife.
cruwear loses its toughness quickly if you harden past the sweet spot
I feel like your wife just has really thick hair 😂. I just can’t get anything other than super gold to act like that. She Greek or something? 😂
Just a matter of technique man.
Matthew Forrest she is not Greek and the results are not exclusive to her hair. It is a matter of technique.
Michael Christy lol I was just joking..