Hi, just wanted to make a quick comment. I found your channel a few months ago and it inspired me to learn how to sharpen my own knives. After watching your videos and practicing almost daily, I've finally got to where I can whittle hairs!! Thanks for the help, I would never have gotten there without you...
Hell yeah! Been missing your insight, brother. I have a very humble sharpening setup, but whenever I watch one of your videos I gain knowledge. Well done, man.
Amazing information, this is the first video I've seen and definitely my favorite new channel , thanks for the brilliant insight, and masterful techniques
I'd be curious to see a video where you break out your entire collection, showcase what you own, what models have become your personal favorites. Favorite steels..etc. I say this because so many knife channels focus on whats hot now, but with your experience, and the way in which you present your opinions...I think it would be a really fun video "state of the collection" if you will.
@@michaelchristy4982 I agree, i think it'd be very interesting to see some sort of general collection video from you! 5 or 10 favorite knives, most carried of 2019, something like that.
This specific knife gave me a very hard time with burr removal. I want to sharpen my PM2 so I can compare the experience. I think I rush to the strops before weakening the burr on the stones. Thank you for showing your process. I just need more practice and time.
I have the same problem, leave to big a burr for the strops to handle. Ive started to use alternating passes on my finest diamond, and have found it works wonders in reducing the burr. Hope this helps.
I own the same stones just the smaller pocket versions. Your k390 pm2 discussion video mirrored my exact experiences with k390. I chose the xhp cutlery shoppe over the Bento box para 3 when they dropped. Regardless of the steel I have always followed the mindset that the more I achieve with a stone the less demand I place on a strop. To pinpoint residual burr on the edge, I alternate strokes on the corner of the stone as the final step. The goal is to feel zero resistance in both directions and I'm able to cover from heel to tip. I've gone years without the use of a strop with satisfactory results with this approach. I do the same stone in hand sharpening style so maintaining the same angle comes natural to me. The discussion focus of this video is burr reduction and the appropriate place for me to articulate my two cents. I don't use hair whittling as the measuring stick for sharpness. However I'm able to clean cut newsprint religiously no matter which hand I use when I sharpen. Rather enjoy the challenge of using my left hand instead of my right every now and then. Awesome video.
Great video as always. Agreed venev diamond whetstone are such an excellent value, i use the small ones to sharpen freehand almost all my knives with extremely good results.
A technique I've been working on for deburring is to finish my progression, then cycling back through my final 2 or 3 stones using deburring strokes, often times making sure one of those is an ultrafine ceramic. Sometimes I'll jump up and down multiple times, maybe even with the slightest possible angle increase, before ending on a strop or two. I've been liking the results!
Obviously this isn't necessary, or even theoretically beneficial in any way I can think of. It's just something to try for people who are struggling to properly deburr. A completely clean burr free edge is the single most important factor in achieving HIGH levels of sharpness. It seems to come naturally to some, but I think the majority of people just don't recognize it's importance, and/or aren't able to pull it off, and/or aren't aware that their edges aren't as sharp as they could be.
Chris Pregent it’s interesting... whenever discussing different sharpening systems, I always tell people there are things learn from different systems. I don’t put down the use of guided systems. When I used to use the Tormek, it had a stropping wheel. The paste was 5-7 micron... very aggressive. Using it taught me what a fully deburred edge looked like. That lesson is still invaluable today. Learn everything you can, from everywhere that you can. Observe, measure, calculate, and conclude.
Thanks for all the great info I get from your vids! Everything is detailed and accurate. I've become extremely OCD with my sharpening lately and I've been able to apply a lot of how you sharpen to my system. I hold the stones and strops in my hand as well, for better feel. Good tip on removing the compound after a fresh strop. Keep it up man, great content!
Impressive how long it stays hair whittling sharp. My edge can last 10 cuts into paper and it won’t whittle hair anymore. The knife I am referring to is a Spyderco Shaman in M4. Very interesting video you put up! Thanks for sharing!
17:40 quite impressive it retained that kind of edge after whittling wood like that, k390 is some impressive stuff. Overall a very enjoyable video, keep up the good work! 👍
You really do have a great stone in hand technique. I like to do this stone in hand too, after learning as a kid with a pocket stone. Gives alot of feedback that you cant get on the countertop. Yr videos are chill man, pure sharpening distillate.
Love the vid! Frame in frame with whittling is novel and interesting. Sharpening discussion is valued as always :) Have a Police 4 but the BBS K390 PM2 is next on my list!
K390 is one of those steels that will tell you, in no uncertain terms, whether or not you finished it correctly on your final stone. When you’re right, it’ll demolish a hair on contact off a 4 micron strop…if it’s a little messy, it’ll kinda whittle a hair and never get much further. Luckily, it’s easy to identify and easy to remedy. Honestly, it’s just another reason I really like k390…it’s highly responsive to every aspect of sharpening.
Thank you brother for all your expert knowledge that you give us for free! I’m still practicing my sharpening and even though I’m happy with my ability, I’m not even close to being where I want to be. Your videos always motivate me to get better, so one day .... I can yank a hair from my wife’s head and after she slaps me ,I’ll say watch this babe.. and that’s when I’ll feather her hair. But seriously, thank you brother! That’s one awesome Para3!
Closest thing to a light saber. I hope one day I can get these types of edges. 2 years into sharpening and I have never been able to cut a hair like that.
I'm opposed to microbevels, but I've been contemplating the merit of microconvexing edges. I think raising your angle by only maybe 1 degree on your final deburring passes is an effective way to shear off the burr, and leave you with a narrow, clean apex. Of course you are sacrificing a non zero amount of edge retention by increasing your apex angle, but I think it can be a worthwhile tradeoff, especially on steels that don't pop off their burr as readily as others. And for every measure of retention you lose you gain durability. Just something to think about
Chris Pregent that’s interesting, but what about the stropping after the fact? Would the technique you’re talking about have a negative effect on the reaction of the edge to the strops?
@@michaelchristy4982 hmm, I suppose it might. Unless the angle change is slight enough that any natural compression from the strop allows it to still contact the microconvexed area. But then it sounds like we're really starting to run the risk of rounding the apex.
I think my problem has been sharpening using the scrubbing motion like you do but then would do the single strokes for the burr but I would find that I wouldnt get the whole edge and have to go up higher and higher because I had a slight convex from the scrubbing and would hold more of a steady angle with the single strokes. Still got some figuring out to do but I can whittle hair and whatnot but only get it insanely sharp once in a while like how you can whittle hair. Great video man
last question: when you want to bring a used edge back to hair whittling by stropping (let's say K390) will this also restore slicing aggression? I always have the impression that when stropping for longer than just a few strokes it greatly reduces slicing aggression. thanks for your help!
Zayaraq it depends on the edge finish originally on the knife, and the strop you’re using. (Probably your technique as well) If the aggression (bite) doesn’t come back, the edge is dead and the knife needs a full sharpening.
I'm really loving that style of video! also this is a topic that I have been looking forward to for a long time now, thanks! btw how much pressure did you use on that strop compared to the final stone?
That takes some skill to free hand right and left .I free hand I always make a to shallow angle I feel the flat hit the stone flush and always go to steep and roll edge so I end up with to shallow angle in attempt to keep from rolling edge .I got kme and s30 v and I got a 1 micron diamond resin and still can't get hair whittling
Incredible footage and sharpness. How does it hold up against cardboard? I notice that my edges loose shaving sharpness almost instantly when cutting cardboard, but still keep a working edge for a very long time after that. But the sharpening nerd in me would love to be able to keep shaving sharpness even after use.
I knew where this was going and couldn’t help but feel like you were going for too many pieces of wood. I was nervous for no reason, insane edge retention!
Good info. Sorry to take up you time, but I need your recommendation on a diamond/spray or paste to use with straight razors. Also what stropping medium? Balsa or basswood? When I hone straight razors I usually stop with synthetic stones at 5k, I set bevel with 1.5k then I like to finish with natural stones, because more skin friendly. I usually don't aim for a burr, but at 5k I sometimes have bits of micro fin/burr. It's not a large burr it can only be seen with a 10x loupe and under a really bright directional light source. I like to remove that Burr at 5k, because if it's removed then usually you want have any problems with developing a micro Burr with natural stones. Once one is developed though on soft carbon steel, they can be a pain to coax off and remove! I have tried green crox powder on balsa, but crox is way to fine to remove any micro burrs.
Thanks for the vid! I feel like I’m doing the things you described, but still have some trouble. One problem in particular is that I feel like I’ve removed a burr, but with a bit of use a huge burr shows up on one side. I’m assuming that means I’m just straightening/aligning it rather that removing it entirely. Any suggestions for that particular issue?
Hi. What do you think about “edge trailing” vs “edge leading” question ? Do you think it really matter ? When you move the blade on the stone do you keep equal pressure ? I mean for sharpening in general not just burr reduction. Thanks
Laurent aouate I do both with equal pressure, but always end with edge leading. I was always taught that edge trialing increases burr, and is therefor bad, but I don’t know that to be true.
I have a question regarding how the edge holds up. I am using venev diamond stones on chefs knives. My question is about after forming the initial bur on both sides with the first stone. Let’s say you apexed a global knife both sides on the 220/240 you move on to the 400, 800. I never re establish the bur after the first sone. I am wondering if I should . I’m wondering how many passes I should do on each side of the knife on 400 , can you explain number of passes or amount of work you would spend on the 400 for a not super steal knife .? I use a ts prof because I need knives sharp for work and want to up my game as far as getting a lasting edg. You may or may not like fixed angled sharpeners but I love the 6x1 stone options. With my edge pro or ts prof I get a lot of sharpening, removing very little material . The venev stones are highly efficient in metal removal , way better scratch pattern then atoma plates . I like them better then the edge pro diamond matrix their bonder or resin is better .
very impressive! will it whittle a hair after cutting in printer paper? i think that the wood is getting separated by the bevel without beeing cut very much by the front end edge. otherwise i really can t iamgine how the knife was still able to whittle a hair. I know that the steel is extremly goog and that your sharppening is even better, but still... I m watching it for the 10 time and just can t believe what I m seeing!! Love your vids!
Thats the issue i feel i have when freehand sharpening. I just dont feel confident that im using the same angle when flipping sides or changing stones etc. Im sure im within 1 to 2 degrees but i feel that its necessary to be more precise than that to get a super sharp edge. I get my knives hair popping sharp, when everything comes together just right. But ive never whittled a hair before. Also, quite often it seems i take the bite off my edge when i move to the strops. Any suggestions or am i destined to be a fixed angle clamp system guy?
I know you have talked about pocket sharpeners and strops, but gererally do you sharpen anywhere other than your filming area? Like do you carry a spyderco ultrafine rod with you when you leave the house?
John Mackey not generally. There are times I carry a custom combination stone with me, but not often. But I think good pocket sharpeners could be ideal for a camping situation.
would your deburring routine dramatically change when using diamond plates or would you just be using a coarser strop to remove the burr? Also your don't seem to be using wood anymore. does this have a good reason, or do you just have too much stuff to choose from?
Hi Michael - I'm still relatively new to knife sharpening, and I've noticed on various sharpening forums and Facebook groups that there seem to be 2 general outlooks about burr removal: the first viewpoint is the idea that the burr is gradually removed as one progresses along the stones, and finally touched up as much as possible with stropping for the best apex. The second trend is the belief that the burr should be mostly eliminated, as early as the 1st or 2nd stone, and the rest is simply about polishing the edge. I know you've stated there's more than 1 way to get good results, but I'm wondering what's your opinion on this above? I haven't yet got hair whittling results from the stones alone, it's always the stropping that seems to move it to that level of sharpness. Thanks in advance.
Aproposification you can get hair whittling off the stones, but I look for solid apexing off the stones, with burr removal on the final stone (after using it to apex) and on the strops.
Hi Michael, You're a superb reviewer! Wish you would do more! Question... Question that is a little off-topic. You are clearly a very particular guy, and I appreciate that very much. I have several dozen Spyderco knives, and no shortage of PM2 and Para 3 variants. As I'm sure you can appreciate, there can be night and day differences in the action as they come from the factory. Most notably, in way more cases than not, the lock bar, when the blade is open, has to be broken free for the blade to close. The way that lock bar wedges against the blade makes you have to pop it free for it to disengage. Roughly speaking, only about 1/10 that I own don't do this. In my personal opinion, the knife is so much sweeter when the lock bar doesn't have to break free, but I have done a bunch of research and there is no easy fix. Just curious what your thoughts are on this. How much do you notice the difference in the action when you get a new compression lock Spyderco? I get that most people would never have a thought on this as most people who have a Spyderco knife have ONE Spyderco knife. It takes some crazy to notice these things but our problems could be worse. :) Thanks!!
trevestor I have some PM2’s and Para 3’s with perfect action. Those certainly do stand out. PM2’s are easier to adjust. (Try giving the stop pin a quarter spin). The Para 3’s are more difficult. I’m not a master of adjustment or rebuild, and I don’t pretend to be. I take tips from those better then me, and hope for the best. But my goal with any new knife is to love it, just like most in the knife community. I’m still fueled by my love of the hobby. Hope this addresses your question well enough.
@@michaelchristy4982 Whoa! I just tried that and it fixed 1 of to 2 PM2s perfectly! For some reason it didn't work on the other. Are you just turning the screw 1/4 turn or unscrewing both screws and then turning the pin itself?
@@trevestor Polishing the pin, and even, very careful sanding on the blade where the lockbar rests can drastically improve the action of compression lock Spydercos. What youre talking about, if im understand correctly, is called "lock stick" Ive had just about every pm2 and para 3 variation at one point or another, and id say my k390 pm2 has the best action ive seen.
I use a kme system but I have always had a hard time getting the burr off on all steels I been using a downward stroke from spine to edge light pressure then flip and go back and forth should I try going from edge to spine strokes ?
What is you opinion on removing a burr by pulling the knife laterally of the side of the stone? Also edge leading on stones or trailing to strip burrs?
Jordan Bradley I’ve run into this quite a few times. At this point, it’s something I ignore. I just move through my progression to the final stone. If you’re still getting it then, move onto strops and clean up the edge. I believe it just means your edge is a little raggedy. It could be a sign of fatigue, but I’m not sure. But again, I don’t worry about it.
Zackery Grovenburg it’s soling leather, like the leather used on the sole of a shoe. It was made by a guy on IG named northwestknifeguy. It was given to me by another guy, who bought it from him.
Do you think it's too much of a jump to go straight from a Spyderco fine or ultra fine stone to a 0.5 micron diamond or cbn strop? Not looking to polish the edge, just wanting an hair whittling edge that is still aggressive.
@@michaelchristy4982 typically I'll start out with DMT coarse, fine, extra fine, then move to the Spyderco medium, and finish on Spyderco fine (starting out normal and ending with very light passes). Then about 15- 20 passes per side on a Knivesplus green strop. At my limited skill level, most knives are getting just to the point that they'll start to whittle a free hanging hair. I've played around with the extra-extra fine dmt and UF sharpmaker rods but I don't use them often. I do some touch ups on the strop but I'm not really impressed with the edges off of it.
@@michaelchristy4982 very minimal. I feel it less and less as I progress on the diamonds and it's hard for me to find at all on the ceramic stones. I end on the ceramics with very light passes each side kinda similar to what you're doing here.
Hello Michael, what happened with the sandrin knife that Pete from Cedric and Ada send you? He mentions you in his video and I was interested in your sharpening of that thing, but I haven't found the video. Thanks
I've become quite a fan of the new OCB Venev stones. I've been ask why or how they last so long and what is the binder. Well, here is a news flash to what I've leaned in researching the binder. As many know, the very popular phenolic product originally developed by WestingHouse has become a house hold name in the Custom Knife World regardless of who makes it. It's called Micarta. Micarta can have have any number of bonding matrix and laminates. Canvas, Linen, Paper, Burlap, and now Diamond! Yep, this is virtually a Diamond Micarta type product. Woo-H00. About time someone figured it out! Due to the makeup of Micartas, they are impervious to most liquids. I have found that the Trend Diamond Honing liquid prevents any build up of metal in the stones what so ever. Even what looks like build up or loading vanishes instantly after sharpening with nothing more than a quick rub with my index finger. Don't wipe down with a towel until rubbing it first as the towel will remove the fluid which is needed to do the work of cleaning the stone. No more Bar Keepers Friend, no more abrasives needed at all until flattening is needed. And that is rare. I have been testing and sharing results with Gritomatic (Chris) and so far, I'm very impressed with the products and Company. KnifeMaker
Michael, you said your 1200 grit venev stone has been great as a finishing stone. We went back and forth about this a while back. What would your opinion be using other 1200 grit stones as a finishing stone? Does this stone stand out as superior in this grit range to finish with prior to a strop? Happy Thanksgiving
Hello Mr. Christy. I am a rookie at knife sharpening. I have been watching your videos trying to learn. Before I go spending money on stuff that I may not end up using much, I thought I would ask you. So, what would you suggest as far as a knife sharpening system for a beginner ? Thank you.
Michael Christy it makes no reference on the website. Just that 50% is available for purchase and 100% is not. It must be concentration, as the the course stones are 100% and the med and fine are 50%. Thanks for responding.
you still using that strop? or have you switched back to something else. Also, OhioApexing may have sent you the strop but he didn't make it. Northwestknifeguy did, and he is a pretty fucking awesome dude who I believe deserves credit. Northwestknifeguy makes strops, AND compounds. I still don't think he gets enuff attention.
Hi Dude Ohio paid for it and sent it as a gift. We briefly discussed who had made it, but I believe he was using the guys real name, and I’m not gonna put that out in a video without talking to the person first, so calm down. NorthWestKnifeGuy can reach out to me any time he wants for a discussion.
You understand all the facts about sharpening but still dont do it right. No professional hold there stones you need to learn you lay it flat or your constant isn't the same and your sharpening wont be either so your comparisons are pointless
This is what we love, when Mike is outside in real situations using the knives and showing his talent and the tools possibilities. Thanks man so cool!
Sunday morning with coffee, a knife in hand and a Michael Christy video!! It doesn't get much better my friend!
Anthony Waldrep 🤘🏻😎🇨🇦
Does anyone else just want to feel one of the edges that Michael sharpens?
thegreatchug yep. Think about that all the time.
yup , i need to know what my target is
right !?
Nope, I prefer to keep my fingertips intact.
He need BESS tester so atleast we have an idea
Hi, just wanted to make a quick comment.
I found your channel a few months ago and it inspired me to learn how to sharpen my own knives.
After watching your videos and practicing almost daily, I've finally got to where I can whittle hairs!!
Thanks for the help, I would never have gotten there without you...
Jefferson Henn that’s great to hear. I’m glad the channel helped you to get there.
I do agree with you. There are many ways to do one thing. Your demonstration was just another way to get it done. Great job
Hell yeah! Been missing your insight, brother. I have a very humble sharpening setup, but whenever I watch one of your videos I gain knowledge. Well done, man.
Really enjoyed your comments of people’s necessity to break things up and make things more complicated than they really are. Couldn’t agree more🤘
Amazing information, this is the first video I've seen and definitely my favorite new channel , thanks for the brilliant insight, and masterful techniques
Jim Dillas Thanks
Excellent demonstration on the subject of deburring aswell as discussing certain levels of sharpness.
I'd be curious to see a video where you break out your entire collection, showcase what you own, what models have become your personal favorites. Favorite steels..etc. I say this because so many knife channels focus on whats hot now, but with your experience, and the way in which you present your opinions...I think it would be a really fun video "state of the collection" if you will.
Dan Gurgian it would be too long. I keep almost everything.
@@michaelchristy4982 I agree, i think it'd be very interesting to see some sort of general collection video from you! 5 or 10 favorite knives, most carried of 2019, something like that.
This specific knife gave me a very hard time with burr removal. I want to sharpen my PM2 so I can compare the experience. I think I rush to the strops before weakening the burr on the stones. Thank you for showing your process. I just need more practice and time.
I have the same problem, leave to big a burr for the strops to handle. Ive started to use alternating passes on my finest diamond, and have found it works wonders in reducing the burr. Hope this helps.
@@driftingfir8515 thank you for the tip. I really appreciate it. Sharpening can drive you mad.
I own the same stones just the smaller pocket versions. Your k390 pm2 discussion video mirrored my exact experiences with k390. I chose the xhp cutlery shoppe over the Bento box para 3 when they dropped. Regardless of the steel I have always followed the mindset that the more I achieve with a stone the less demand I place on a strop. To pinpoint residual burr on the edge, I alternate strokes on the corner of the stone as the final step. The goal is to feel zero resistance in both directions and I'm able to cover from heel to tip. I've gone years without the use of a strop with satisfactory results with this approach. I do the same stone in hand sharpening style so maintaining the same angle comes natural to me. The discussion focus of this video is burr reduction and the appropriate place for me to articulate my two cents. I don't use hair whittling as the measuring stick for sharpness. However I'm able to clean cut newsprint religiously no matter which hand I use when I sharpen. Rather enjoy the challenge of using my left hand instead of my right every now and then. Awesome video.
Great video as always. Agreed venev diamond whetstone are such an excellent value, i use the small ones to sharpen freehand almost all my knives with extremely good results.
A technique I've been working on for deburring is to finish my progression, then cycling back through my final 2 or 3 stones using deburring strokes, often times making sure one of those is an ultrafine ceramic. Sometimes I'll jump up and down multiple times, maybe even with the slightest possible angle increase, before ending on a strop or two. I've been liking the results!
Obviously this isn't necessary, or even theoretically beneficial in any way I can think of. It's just something to try for people who are struggling to properly deburr. A completely clean burr free edge is the single most important factor in achieving HIGH levels of sharpness. It seems to come naturally to some, but I think the majority of people just don't recognize it's importance, and/or aren't able to pull it off, and/or aren't aware that their edges aren't as sharp as they could be.
Chris Pregent it’s interesting... whenever discussing different sharpening systems, I always tell people there are things learn from different systems. I don’t put down the use of guided systems. When I used to use the Tormek, it had a stropping wheel. The paste was 5-7 micron... very aggressive. Using it taught me what a fully deburred edge looked like. That lesson is still invaluable today.
Learn everything you can, from everywhere that you can. Observe, measure, calculate, and conclude.
Thanks for all the great info I get from your vids! Everything is detailed and accurate. I've become extremely OCD with my sharpening lately and I've been able to apply a lot of how you sharpen to my system. I hold the stones and strops in my hand as well, for better feel. Good tip on removing the compound after a fresh strop. Keep it up man, great content!
J Rousseau thanks buddy.
Impressive how long it stays hair whittling sharp. My edge can last 10 cuts into paper and it won’t whittle hair anymore. The knife I am referring to is a Spyderco Shaman in M4. Very interesting video you put up! Thanks for sharing!
17:40 quite impressive it retained that kind of edge after whittling wood like that, k390 is some impressive stuff. Overall a very enjoyable video, keep up the good work! 👍
Dang Christy, great sharpener and great film maker
You really do have a great stone in hand technique. I like to do this stone in hand too, after learning as a kid with a pocket stone. Gives alot of feedback that you cant get on the countertop. Yr videos are chill man, pure sharpening distillate.
Nice video Mike! You answered a lot of questions that have been floating around.
Enjoyed the video. I've been using the Venev stones for a while now and really enjoy the results they give.
So relaxing. I just watch this, than go over to my sharpening stones and destroy a knife. :)
Love the vid! Frame in frame with whittling is novel and interesting. Sharpening discussion is valued as always :)
Have a Police 4 but the BBS K390 PM2 is next on my list!
Sunday morning at the foot of the Master... thanks.
K390 is one of those steels that will tell you, in no uncertain terms, whether or not you finished it correctly on your final stone. When you’re right, it’ll demolish a hair on contact off a 4 micron strop…if it’s a little messy, it’ll kinda whittle a hair and never get much further. Luckily, it’s easy to identify and easy to remedy. Honestly, it’s just another reason I really like k390…it’s highly responsive to every aspect of sharpening.
I like the fire footage, very raw, awesome steel
I’ve felt that phenomenon of having a burr on both sides. I’ve heard it described as a crushed apex but I’m not sure if I buy it.
Thank you brother for all your expert knowledge that you give us for free! I’m still practicing my sharpening and even though I’m happy with my ability, I’m not even close to being where I want to be. Your videos always motivate me to get better, so one day .... I can yank a hair from my wife’s head and after she slaps me ,I’ll say watch this babe.. and that’s when I’ll feather her hair. But seriously, thank you brother! That’s one awesome Para3!
Mr.DeLaCruz 559 this made me laugh. Glad you liked the video.
Closest thing to a light saber. I hope one day I can get these types of edges. 2 years into sharpening and I have never been able to cut a hair like that.
Eric Sossamon light sabers are overrated... you can’t put a mirror polish on a light saber.
Also, thank you.
I'm opposed to microbevels, but I've been contemplating the merit of microconvexing edges. I think raising your angle by only maybe 1 degree on your final deburring passes is an effective way to shear off the burr, and leave you with a narrow, clean apex. Of course you are sacrificing a non zero amount of edge retention by increasing your apex angle, but I think it can be a worthwhile tradeoff, especially on steels that don't pop off their burr as readily as others. And for every measure of retention you lose you gain durability. Just something to think about
Chris Pregent that’s interesting, but what about the stropping after the fact? Would the technique you’re talking about have a negative effect on the reaction of the edge to the strops?
@@michaelchristy4982 hmm, I suppose it might. Unless the angle change is slight enough that any natural compression from the strop allows it to still contact the microconvexed area. But then it sounds like we're really starting to run the risk of rounding the apex.
quality sharpening videos. .invaluable
Outstanding work bro!!! Keep it up 👍
I think my problem has been sharpening using the scrubbing motion like you do but then would do the single strokes for the burr but I would find that I wouldnt get the whole edge and have to go up higher and higher because I had a slight convex from the scrubbing and would hold more of a steady angle with the single strokes. Still got some figuring out to do but I can whittle hair and whatnot but only get it insanely sharp once in a while like how you can whittle hair. Great video man
Excellent, thanks for the video
last question: when you want to bring a used edge back to hair whittling by stropping (let's say K390) will this also restore slicing aggression? I always have the impression that when stropping for longer than just a few strokes it greatly reduces slicing aggression. thanks for your help!
Zayaraq it depends on the edge finish originally on the knife, and the strop you’re using. (Probably your technique as well)
If the aggression (bite) doesn’t come back, the edge is dead and the knife needs a full sharpening.
@@michaelchristy4982 thanks! really interesting, because I always thought if you manage to strop back to hair whittling your good to go!
A1 resource. Thanks again 🤘🏼
I'm really loving that style of video! also this is a topic that I have been looking forward to for a long time now, thanks!
btw how much pressure did you use on that strop compared to the final stone?
Zayaraq normal pressure on the strop. Very light pressure on the stone.
The 🐐
PockeTanK is that a goat? Maybe it’s a donkey... what is that?
@@michaelchristy4982 that's gotta be a goat. Means greatest of all time. And you are so...makes sense. Awsome video thanks.
Michael Christy it’s a goat
Greatest
Of
All
Time
PockeTanK now I get it. Thanks.
That takes some skill to free hand right and left .I free hand I always make a to shallow angle I feel the flat hit the stone flush and always go to steep and roll edge so I end up with to shallow angle in attempt to keep from rolling edge .I got kme and s30 v and I got a 1 micron diamond resin and still can't get hair whittling
Incredible footage and sharpness. How does it hold up against cardboard? I notice that my edges loose shaving sharpness almost instantly when cutting cardboard, but still keep a working edge for a very long time after that. But the sharpening nerd in me would love to be able to keep shaving sharpness even after use.
I knew where this was going and couldn’t help but feel like you were going for too many pieces of wood. I was nervous for no reason, insane edge retention!
Nick Macaluso LOL. Maybe that thought crossed my mind while I was doing it, but it turned out ok.
RESPECT.
Good info. Sorry to take up you time, but I need your recommendation on a diamond/spray or paste to use with straight razors. Also what stropping medium? Balsa or basswood?
When I hone straight razors I usually stop with synthetic stones at 5k, I set bevel with 1.5k then I like to finish with natural stones, because more skin friendly. I usually don't aim for a burr, but at 5k I sometimes have bits of micro fin/burr. It's not a large burr it can only be seen with a 10x loupe and under a really bright directional light source. I like to remove that Burr at 5k, because if it's removed then usually you want have any problems with developing a micro Burr with natural stones. Once one is developed though on soft carbon steel, they can be a pain to coax off and remove! I have tried green crox powder on balsa, but crox is way to fine to remove any micro burrs.
Michael Shults good Poly diamond emulsion will take the burr right off. I use emulsions from Ken Schwartz. I usually use them on leather.
Thanks for the vid!
I feel like I’m doing the things you described, but still have some trouble. One problem in particular is that I feel like I’ve removed a burr, but with a bit of use a huge burr shows up on one side. I’m assuming that means I’m just straightening/aligning it rather that removing it entirely. Any suggestions for that particular issue?
Aaron Kahn-Bork what’s your final stone and first strop?
Hi. What do you think about “edge trailing” vs “edge leading” question ? Do you think it really matter ? When you move the blade on the stone do you keep equal pressure ? I mean for sharpening in general not just burr reduction. Thanks
Laurent aouate I do both with equal pressure, but always end with edge leading. I was always taught that edge trialing increases burr, and is therefor bad, but I don’t know that to be true.
@@michaelchristy4982 thank you
I have a question regarding how the edge holds up. I am using venev diamond stones on chefs knives. My question is about after forming the initial bur on both sides with the first stone. Let’s say you apexed a global knife both sides on the 220/240 you move on to the 400, 800. I never re establish the bur after the first sone. I am wondering if I should . I’m wondering how many passes I should do on each side of the knife on 400 , can you explain number of passes or amount of work you would spend on the 400 for a not super steal knife .? I use a ts prof because I need knives sharp for work and want to up my game as far as getting a lasting edg. You may or may not like fixed angled sharpeners but I love the 6x1 stone options. With my edge pro or ts prof I get a lot of sharpening, removing very little material . The venev stones are highly efficient in metal removal , way better scratch pattern then atoma plates . I like them better then the edge pro diamond matrix their bonder or resin is better .
very impressive! will it whittle a hair after cutting in printer paper? i think that the wood is getting separated by the bevel without beeing cut very much by the front end edge. otherwise i really can t iamgine how the knife was still able to whittle a hair. I know that the steel is extremly goog and that your sharppening is even better, but still...
I m watching it for the 10 time and just can t believe what I m seeing!! Love your vids!
Thats the issue i feel i have when freehand sharpening. I just dont feel confident that im using the same angle when flipping sides or changing stones etc. Im sure im within 1 to 2 degrees but i feel that its necessary to be more precise than that to get a super sharp edge. I get my knives hair popping sharp, when everything comes together just right. But ive never whittled a hair before.
Also, quite often it seems i take the bite off my edge when i move to the strops.
Any suggestions or am i destined to be a fixed angle clamp system guy?
I know you have talked about pocket sharpeners and strops, but gererally do you sharpen anywhere other than your filming area? Like do you carry a spyderco ultrafine rod with you when you leave the house?
John Mackey not generally. There are times I carry a custom combination stone with me, but not often. But I think good pocket sharpeners could be ideal for a camping situation.
I feel like I just found out KFC's secret family recipe...lol. Thanks Michael! Big help
Hey Mike, I'd like to get into free hand sharpening. What stones would you recommend, along with stroping!
Michael, have you experimented much with Plateau sharpening? I prefer it to all other methods.
Wolf H it would be fine in a survival situation, as would a micro bevel, but I don’t prefer it when I’m at home with everything at my disposal.
PM 2 is a great knife
would your deburring routine dramatically change when using diamond plates or would you just be using a coarser strop to remove the burr? Also your don't seem to be using wood anymore. does this have a good reason, or do you just have too much stuff to choose from?
Zayaraq wood is fine. I would use it in a pinch, but leather lasts longer.
My routine with plates is similar, but has a more aggressive feel to it.
Hi Michael - I'm still relatively new to knife sharpening, and I've noticed on various sharpening forums and Facebook groups that there seem to be 2 general outlooks about burr removal: the first viewpoint is the idea that the burr is gradually removed as one progresses along the stones, and finally touched up as much as possible with stropping for the best apex. The second trend is the belief that the burr should be mostly eliminated, as early as the 1st or 2nd stone, and the rest is simply about polishing the edge.
I know you've stated there's more than 1 way to get good results, but I'm wondering what's your opinion on this above? I haven't yet got hair whittling results from the stones alone, it's always the stropping that seems to move it to that level of sharpness. Thanks in advance.
Aproposification you can get hair whittling off the stones, but I look for solid apexing off the stones, with burr removal on the final stone (after using it to apex) and on the strops.
Hi Michael,
You're a superb reviewer! Wish you would do more! Question...
Question that is a little off-topic. You are clearly a very particular guy, and I appreciate that very much. I have several dozen Spyderco knives, and no shortage of PM2 and Para 3 variants. As I'm sure you can appreciate, there can be night and day differences in the action as they come from the factory. Most notably, in way more cases than not, the lock bar, when the blade is open, has to be broken free for the blade to close. The way that lock bar wedges against the blade makes you have to pop it free for it to disengage. Roughly speaking, only about 1/10 that I own don't do this. In my personal opinion, the knife is so much sweeter when the lock bar doesn't have to break free, but I have done a bunch of research and there is no easy fix.
Just curious what your thoughts are on this. How much do you notice the difference in the action when you get a new compression lock Spyderco? I get that most people would never have a thought on this as most people who have a Spyderco knife have ONE Spyderco knife. It takes some crazy to notice these things but our problems could be worse. :)
Thanks!!
trevestor I have some PM2’s and Para 3’s with perfect action. Those certainly do stand out. PM2’s are easier to adjust. (Try giving the stop pin a quarter spin).
The Para 3’s are more difficult. I’m not a master of adjustment or rebuild, and I don’t pretend to be. I take tips from those better then me, and hope for the best.
But my goal with any new knife is to love it, just like most in the knife community. I’m still fueled by my love of the hobby. Hope this addresses your question well enough.
@@michaelchristy4982 Thank you, Michael. Yes, absolutely.
I will try the 1/4 turn and hope for some improvement. I appreciate your time!
@@michaelchristy4982 Whoa! I just tried that and it fixed 1 of to 2 PM2s perfectly! For some reason it didn't work on the other. Are you just turning the screw 1/4 turn or unscrewing both screws and then turning the pin itself?
@@trevestor
Polishing the pin, and even, very careful sanding on the blade where the lockbar rests can drastically improve the action of compression lock Spydercos.
What youre talking about, if im understand correctly, is called "lock stick"
Ive had just about every pm2 and para 3 variation at one point or another, and id say my k390 pm2 has the best action ive seen.
trevestor try just turning the screw 1/4 turn.
I use a kme system but I have always had a hard time getting the burr off on all steels I been using a downward stroke from spine to edge light pressure then flip and go back and forth should I try going from edge to spine strokes ?
Kevin Fitzgerald yes.
@@michaelchristy4982 thanks I appreciate it
What is you opinion on removing a burr by pulling the knife laterally of the side of the stone? Also edge leading on stones or trailing to strip burrs?
What does it mean when it feels like there is a light burr on both sides? I have had that a couple times and was quite confused
Jordan Bradley I’ve run into this quite a few times. At this point, it’s something I ignore. I just move through my progression to the final stone. If you’re still getting it then, move onto strops and clean up the edge. I believe it just means your edge is a little raggedy. It could be a sign of fatigue, but I’m not sure. But again, I don’t worry about it.
What is the strop again ? I think i heard sully leather from higher apex but cant seem to find it.
Zackery Grovenburg it’s soling leather, like the leather used on the sole of a shoe. It was made by a guy on IG named northwestknifeguy. It was given to me by another guy, who bought it from him.
Great video as usual! Mike edges are very sharp but is it hard to get consistent angles on the edge with freehand sharpening?
James Maggio it’s something that you have to work towards, if that’s what you want from it.
is the golden colorado less tough than seki japan?
Do you think it's too much of a jump to go straight from a Spyderco fine or ultra fine stone to a 0.5 micron diamond or cbn strop? Not looking to polish the edge, just wanting an hair whittling edge that is still aggressive.
Ryan H it might be too big a jump. It would depend on the progression before the UF.
@@michaelchristy4982 typically I'll start out with DMT coarse, fine, extra fine, then move to the Spyderco medium, and finish on Spyderco fine (starting out normal and ending with very light passes). Then about 15- 20 passes per side on a Knivesplus green strop. At my limited skill level, most knives are getting just to the point that they'll start to whittle a free hanging hair. I've played around with the extra-extra fine dmt and UF sharpmaker rods but I don't use them often. I do some touch ups on the strop but I'm not really impressed with the edges off of it.
Ryan H what kind of burr are you left with after the final stone?
@@michaelchristy4982 very minimal. I feel it less and less as I progress on the diamonds and it's hard for me to find at all on the ceramic stones. I end on the ceramics with very light passes each side kinda similar to what you're doing here.
Micheal what do you do for a living? And how’d you get into sharpening?
Good stuff
Nice job, have you been using a tormek machine?
Parts 795 not in a long time.
Does s110v have burr problems?
driftingfir it depends on how it’s sharpened.
Hello Michael,
what happened with the sandrin knife that Pete from Cedric and Ada send you? He mentions you in his video and I was interested in your sharpening of that thing, but I haven't found the video.
Thanks
I've become quite a fan of the new OCB Venev stones. I've been ask why or how they last so long and what is the binder. Well, here is a news flash to what I've leaned in researching the binder.
As many know, the very popular phenolic product originally developed by WestingHouse has become a house hold name in the Custom Knife World regardless of who makes it. It's called Micarta. Micarta can have have any number of bonding matrix and laminates. Canvas, Linen, Paper, Burlap, and now Diamond!
Yep, this is virtually a Diamond Micarta type product. Woo-H00. About time someone figured it out!
Due to the makeup of Micartas, they are impervious to most liquids. I have found that the Trend Diamond Honing liquid prevents any build up of metal in the stones what so ever. Even what looks like build up or loading vanishes instantly after sharpening with nothing more than a quick rub with my index finger. Don't wipe down with a towel until rubbing it first as the towel will remove the fluid which is needed to do the work of cleaning the stone. No more Bar Keepers Friend, no more abrasives needed at all until flattening is needed. And that is rare.
I have been testing and sharing results with Gritomatic (Chris) and so far, I'm very impressed with the products and Company.
KnifeMaker
where can the venevs be purchased at bro ?
Peter Vu gritomatic.com
Awesome
Michael, you said your 1200 grit venev stone has been great as a finishing stone. We went back and forth about this a while back. What would your opinion be using other 1200 grit stones as a finishing stone? Does this stone stand out as superior in this grit range to finish with prior to a strop?
Happy Thanksgiving
Hello Mr. Christy. I am a rookie at knife sharpening. I have been watching your videos trying to learn. Before I go spending money on stuff that I may not end up using much, I thought I would ask you. So, what would you suggest as far as a knife sharpening system for a beginner ? Thank you.
What’s the difference between 100% and 50% Venev stones on the Gritomatic website? Just size?
gib859 I don’t know. I haven’t looked. Might be the concentration of abrasive. What does it say in the description?
Michael Christy it makes no reference on the website. Just that 50% is available for purchase and 100% is not. It must be concentration, as the the course stones are 100% and the med and fine are 50%. Thanks for responding.
That is a thick leather on that strop...
I just wanna know where all these hairs are coming from 😂
His wife's brush...
@@MusicalWeasel
LOL, I agree...
F ing unicorn hair
Do you prefer the Para3 or PM2 with this steel? I read that they have a lower HRC than the Police, but I like these models more.
Dan B I like them both.
I see this as a art.. Really I could never make such edge free hand.
I can make knife sharp but not like this..
HUH HUH HUH
FIRE FIRE
🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
If you did it right you can widdle at 350
you still using that strop? or have you switched back to something else.
Also, OhioApexing may have sent you the strop but he didn't make it. Northwestknifeguy did, and he is a pretty fucking awesome dude who I believe deserves credit. Northwestknifeguy makes strops, AND compounds. I still don't think he gets enuff attention.
Hi Dude Ohio paid for it and sent it as a gift. We briefly discussed who had made it, but I believe he was using the guys real name, and I’m not gonna put that out in a video without talking to the person first, so calm down.
NorthWestKnifeGuy can reach out to me any time he wants for a discussion.
You kinda sound like Tarantino
Max1Million I’ll take it. Nice.
You understand all the facts about sharpening but still dont do it right. No professional hold there stones you need to learn you lay it flat or your constant isn't the same and your sharpening wont be either so your comparisons are pointless
Complete nonsense comment.