i realize this video is almost 2 years old so chances are you wont read this how ever in the off chance that you do I wanted to say how much I enjoyed listening to you show and explain how to do this particular project. it was great to listen to how well you spoke with great articulation and didnt stutter like a majority of how to speakers. a real pleasure which made it even easier to understand. You do wonderful videos thank you and keep up the awesome job.
I went to a local auto shop recently because my AC was blowing hot air at random. Funny thing is earlier that day I had an Uber passenger and right away he said the compressor was messed up. After leaving the shop they said I just had too much Freon and they would adjust it. I took off soon after paying them only to find that my AC was still blowing hot air. So I went back and they finally said that it was just the compressor which stopped spinning. They also said I would have to replace the whole AC unit because that’s just what you do. The main dude there quoted me $800 for the part. But here in the video you’re saying I only need a new compressor. I’m so glad I watched this because I don’t have $800 laying around and I need my AC working for my main income source. Boy I hate auto shops and dealerships, all they care about is making as much money off customers as possible.
Your two videos on this were indispensable to me! Watched them several times each before I got started. I swapped out my Pulley, clutch and stator .. and NOW ... THE NOISE IS WORSE! No fault of yours I wouldn't have been able to do the job without your vids. THANK YOU! Worse part of the whole job was the damn snap rings and doing them blind.
Excellent video! I was able to pull the replacement clutch off at the junk yard in about 10 minutes. Putting it on my vehicle was a totally different story. The bearings had totally failed on the old pulley, so I couldn't pry it off like you did in the video. I ended up having to buy a puller to get it off. The bearings came out with a pile of metal shavings in my hand. Putting the new one on was a breeze, but neither clutch came with spacers. I improvised and used a trimmed down pull tab from a soda can and now it works awesome!
RatchetsAnd Wrenches I was just able to show a friend how easy it is who was doing it on a Mustang. He was super thrilled. He was lucky that his compressor is on the top of the engine... Thanks again.
Thank you. used this method on my 1998 towncar. The bearing was making a sound that i was convinced was air in the coolant. it turned out to be the a/c bearing vibrating.The only thing i did different was using the a heavy screwdriver to put pressure behind the pulley and gently tapping the side of it with a hammer vibrate it off. Worked like a dream and no more vibration... excellent video and saved me a fortune.
Man! This saves me about $800 at least! I also checked your other video on testing the Mass Air Flow Sensor and saved another $600+ there doing it myself so thanks very much!!
The bearing on my AC clutch took a crap, of course it 95* out. I figure it's at least a $300 bill at the shop. After watching your video, I thought why not try it. I found the whole kit, clutch, pulley, coil, everything, at my local parts store for $90. Less than an hour later, voila, I have cold AC again. Super easy thanks to your video. Many Thanks!!
Be sure to drive the center of the old bearing when driving in the center part of the new bearing, or the outer part when driving in the outer part of the new bearing (say, into the pulley recess). Do not drive one part of the bearing causing forces to run through the balls (or rollers) of the new bearing to the other part you intend to drive in or you will damage the balls.
You want to clean the rust out and make it spotless if you want it to last. Give rust a starting point like the outside of the race and it's only got to migrate around the edge to the bearings and it eats itself again... waste of a part. See my freezer trick in the comments. And always prep your surfaces and remove *ALL* rust! Penetrating oil the surfaces and they will slide together easier too.
I appreciate your video. I have a 2005 3.0 Ford Escape. I got a replacement pulley for $96.50 at O'Reilly's Auto. It already has the new bearing in it. The engine sets sideways so THANK GOD the pulley is easy to get to by taking off the tire and dust shield. I Pretty much followed your video step by step and the job was done within an hour. Thanks again. Signed, RUclips Mechanic!
I never knew it was that easy to change the clutch. My own has stopped engaging and I was planning on carrying it to my AC guy. This video has given me the impetus to try fixing it myself.
Your video really helped me out I deeply appreciate it I’ve never done this before follow your instructions everything perfect I was going to be changing the whole compressor but when I came across your video pointing out certain things mine ended up being the clutch as well save me time and stress thank you great job dude
Thank you!! Watched your video, took off the old parts and got the news on in relatively no time at all. I would have had no idea what I was doing without your help.
One of the best video I've seen on RUclips! Your camera work is excellent! The sound and lighting and clarity of image was excellent! And you know what you're talking about! I'm a video professional and My hat is off to you! I thoroughly appreciate this video!
Great video. Just did my 2000 GT. I almost waited too long. Couldn't even turn the bearing by hand and there was no rubber it the outer section. I did find that the wheel shims I had for my old RC10 worked perfectly. There are very thin and I came in a .020. Hobby shops may still carry these if you need them in a pinch.
I have the same problem. Different Ford but hopefully I have enough room to pop the clutch out without having to remove the compressor. Big thanks for the video.
if you put the pulley in an oven overnight, at a low temperature, and the bearing in the freezer, once you pull it out of oven, lubricate the inside of the pulley, and the bearing. they'll will slide into each other very smoothly simultaneously 👌
Good video.. 1 issue though.. you realize that spinning the pulley while using the pry bar isnt doing what you think it is. The inside of bearing that makes contact with the Ac.compressor is spinning so even though you are spinning the pulley... you are putting pressure on the same spot where its connected.. so u were making it bind more. Other than that.. helped me a lot.. thanks!
Instead of using the screwdriver to prevent it from rotating while you remove that bolt, try using an oil filter tool. It is easier to get a good trip with it and it stays out of the way better. I tried it both ways and using the oil filter tool is way easier. TLDR: oil filter wrench instead of screwdriver to hold clutch still.
Good tutorial man.. I own Hyundai grand i10. I heard abnormal noise when I turn on the AC. When I took it to Hyundai service centre they told it was bearing noise and recommended me to change entire compressor. Now I have to take it local service shop to get the work done
Hi this video is very helpful to us Grab Driver, Grab is a ride sharing app similar to Uber, in the Philippines. Now im planning to use some clippings of your video to create a Philippine language version of the uninstalling the spacer in compressor clutch to limit the gap between the clutch & pulley. Im requesting your permission to this. Thank you in advance.
This was very helpful. My car is a 2010 corolla even though it's different from your car the system works the same way. My ac stopped blowing cold the other day and only gets cool when my car is in motion while idling it is warm. Can you tell me the best way to diagnose warm ac? I'm not low on coolant. My best guess is a leak or my compressor or clutch.
Excellent, very concise. But in my case, everything that was supposed to pull out was very stuck. Also, found it critical to use *heavy duty* snap ring pliers. Most notably, the top part of the clutch (3:24), to the point I I was unable to even *pry* it out, and that's taken for granted in *every* video of this procedure I've found. I eventually got it out after alternately shooting Free All penetrating lubricant into the center hole and on top of the rim to get behind the plate and turning the plate, then putting it back with a longer center bolt of the same threading, so the vibration of driving the vehicle could work the lubricant in while driving it. Eventually I was able to free it by tapping the end with a hammer while turning it, bouncing the hammer along the edge while moving it over a bit. The Free All did work its way into the splines. Then I applied anti-seize to the splines so this doesn't happen again. As of this edit I'm waiting for the Free All to work through to be able to hammer the remains of the bearing out. Should have replaced the entire clutch assembly, because the coils looks beat. But that's a project for another day.
Hi there, great job.I need advice. I changed my ac clutch assembly, so coil, pulley with bearing and clutch. Ac is working fine when i turn it on, clutch is fully engaged and compressor is spining just fine. I left space between clutch and pulley even more than it should be but when my ac is turned off clutch is spining here and there a little bit and it's making unpleasant noise, should i add even more spacers? When i had belt off the pulley was little bit wobbling, i didnt have to hummer it on, i just put it there with hand, so it had little play.
You can also put the bearing in a freeze for a couple of hours and the pulley in an oven set to 300F and you should be able to just drop the bearing into the pulley.
Easy, that is, in a RWD car. I have to do this on my Protege5 (pretty sure the bearing is shot, noisy with the A/C off and the noise goes away when you engage the A/C), and there sure isn't much room between the clutch assembly and the chassis rail. If I have to detatch the compressor to get the clutch off, this will become a b-and a half job. Blech. Nevertheless, this vid was very well done, kudos.
Great Presentation! Any advice about 2015 Jaguar XF 2.0 T ? clutche is not engaging, low and high pressure are igual and around 125 psi. Since the system is not working I am assuming that it the expansion valve, but I am not an expert.
Hey man awesome video! I noticed the clutch stopped at the end of the video.. this is whats happening to mine on my Jeep wrangler. Is that normal that the clutch spins and then stops?? thanks !
Hi my friend I’m working on a2008 civic the ac compressor stays engage all the time I change the compressor condenser expansion valve even the climate control from the junkyard and still nothing fans and compressor stays on don’t know what else to do is cooling good but I know the compressor supposed to disangage
Hi ,Excellent video i was wondering the clearance between the clutch? i hear you saying .014----.030 thousandths of an inch correct?? i know some is .045 ths of an inch.... so im saying it probably best to measure the distance with a feeler gauge "first BEFORE it is take apart and that way,put it back with the original spacers/washers and recheck it for your measurement as take "originally"....mmmmmm ty for input
Thank you for this instructive video. I think when you hammer-out the bearing you should be wearing ear plugs. (I admit I usually think of earplugs after hammering)
I've got this noise happening on my 97 Bonneville. I'm on a tight budget right now and can't afford a whole new compressor so what exactly is it that is causing this noise? If I take everything apart and clean it and then replace just the clutch, bearing and spacers like you've done here, should I be in the clear? That should save me a little money compared to replacing the whole a/c compressor unit.
Put the barring in freezer over night it will get smaller. Sometime fits in smoothly if you go straight to the hole. But once it warms it will tight up because it get to normal size.
Good video.... one thing I like to do is put the bearing in the freezer about 3 hrs to shrink it down a little and in some cases it will just slide in. Obviously I know before hand am doing something like this or not in a hurry.
A really good video for the repair of the A/C clutch. Thank you very much for this. I'm going to do the one on Ford Explorer.. This made it easier to say the least..
Thanks for this video. Did the same job on my 01 Ford Econoline 5.4L. Boy it sure was a bitch because there was about two inches of clearance for my hammer, but I managed to get it done. Just took a lot of effort and patience. I ended up buying a whole clutch assembly because I couldn't get the old bearing out. The old bearing disentegrated so only the outer race was left. Either way I ended up needing a coil anyway.
I Have 2001 Chevy Tahoe. I purchased an A/C clutch the whole thing clutch and bearings but I realized that one of the wires that come of the clutch( clutch coil connector ) had shorted out. I wiggle it and ac kicks on and off. I was wondering should I just cut the wire and tie on a new connector. Just change the whole clutch since I already bought it. Also I decide to change the clutch . Does it like your video or will I need a special tool. I was told by a friend I might need some removal tool. Thanks Dude good video.
I got tired of tools forgetting to come back home. Now I have a list of loaned out tools posted on my file cabinet so don't have to rely on memory as I've aged LOL.
I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma. I was driving down the road at 45 miles an hour. I had the defroster on. Suddenly, I heard a loud howling noise and smoke was coming out from the hood. The smoke was coming from the ac compressor. The air con pully has no issue, but then the clutch is engaging or engaged it makes the howling noise. Is that a bad clutch? What parts should I change?
Great vid! I have some questions, i am soon going to do a similar job with my civic 05. My question is that you deduced that play is in clutch whereas pulley is fine, ok agreed but talking about clutch, how do you make sure where is problem is? Is it the spacers? clutch itself? or the rotor going bad? In my case, pulley has play (confirmed) but i am not sure about clutch play, so what do you suggest me? I change the pulley bearing, spacers but how do i make sure that clutch itself needs replacement or not? and how to make sure that rotor is not bad i.e no play in rotor itself? Sorry if my post is not clear, i tried to present details as much as i can
for hammering in the bearing, instead of a socket try a piece of wood a little larger in dianter than the bearing-it'll absorb the worst of the impact of the hammer but still drive down the bearing.
He did it right driving the outer race in place but he screwed the pooch hammering the pulley back into place because he should have used a socket on the INNER RACE the same way he hammered the out race in place. The way he did it he put the stress on the bearings (rather than directly on the races) which is a guaranteed way to reduce the life of the bearing. I'd like to know how long this bearing lasted before it failed again. I also disagree with using a PRY BAR to remove the pully at the beginning because this puts undue force on the bearings inside the compressor (pulling on the shaft). A wheel puller is the right tool to use and you can BORROW one from most of the name brand auto parts supplier so there really is no excuse for doing it the way he did. Thanks for helping me with the gap measurement
i have an 01 olds aurora and i need to replace the bearing but not the clutch it works great as far as ac and heat but makes a scratchy noise many mechanics have told me its just my bearing in my a/c compressor so can i replace just the bearing? or do i have to replace the clutch also? because with my specific make and model they dont sell a clutch if i want to replace that i have to buy a whole different compressor which is a ridiculous amount of money
I've got a 2012 GMC Terrain and my clutch just took a dive, can I replace the clutch on my compressor without taking it off the vehicle or having to recover/recycle the refrigerant in it. hope not sure would save alot of money and time. Thank you hope to hear from you soon.
Yes, you can, as long as you don't remove the AC compressor from the car. You do not need to remove the AC lines to change the clutch. Just follow the instructions in this video.
i realize this video is almost 2 years old so chances are you wont read this how ever in the off chance that you do I wanted to say how much I enjoyed listening to you show and explain how to do this particular project. it was great to listen to how well you spoke with great articulation and didnt stutter like a majority of how to speakers. a real pleasure which made it even easier to understand. You do wonderful videos thank you and keep up the awesome job.
I went to a local auto shop recently because my AC was blowing hot air at random. Funny thing is earlier that day I had an Uber passenger and right away he said the compressor was messed up. After leaving the shop they said I just had too much Freon and they would adjust it. I took off soon after paying them only to find that my AC was still blowing hot air. So I went back and they finally said that it was just the compressor which stopped spinning. They also said I would have to replace the whole AC unit because that’s just what you do. The main dude there quoted me $800 for the part. But here in the video you’re saying I only need a new compressor. I’m so glad I watched this because I don’t have $800 laying around and I need my AC working for my main income source. Boy I hate auto shops and dealerships, all they care about is making as much money off customers as possible.
Same thing happen to me today which I tried fixing and I tried putting it back and I broke little bolt how can I get it out any suggestions
julio aviles damn, that sucks. I’m still learning my way around a car myself so I don’t have an answer for you. Ask a mechanic friend or neighbor
Your two videos on this were indispensable to me! Watched them several times each before I got started. I swapped out my Pulley, clutch and stator .. and NOW ... THE NOISE IS WORSE! No fault of yours I wouldn't have been able to do the job without your vids. THANK YOU!
Worse part of the whole job was the damn snap rings and doing them blind.
Excellent video! I was able to pull the replacement clutch off at the junk yard in about 10 minutes. Putting it on my vehicle was a totally different story. The bearings had totally failed on the old pulley, so I couldn't pry it off like you did in the video. I ended up having to buy a puller to get it off. The bearings came out with a pile of metal shavings in my hand. Putting the new one on was a breeze, but neither clutch came with spacers. I improvised and used a trimmed down pull tab from a soda can and now it works awesome!
Tom Raider sweet, always pays to think outside the box. thanks for commenting. cheers
RatchetsAnd Wrenches I was just able to show a friend how easy it is who was doing it on a Mustang. He was super thrilled. He was lucky that his compressor is on the top of the engine... Thanks again.
Good Job. Straight to the point and not allot of wasting time talking. Just straight to the point advice and repair.
Thank you. used this method on my 1998 towncar. The bearing was making a sound that i was convinced was air in the coolant. it turned out to be the a/c bearing vibrating.The only thing i did different was using the a heavy screwdriver to put pressure behind the pulley and gently tapping the side of it with a hammer vibrate it off. Worked like a dream and no more vibration... excellent video and saved me a fortune.
Man! This saves me about $800 at least! I also checked your other video on testing the Mass Air Flow Sensor and saved another $600+ there doing it myself so thanks very much!!
The bearing on my AC clutch took a crap, of course it 95* out. I figure it's at least a $300 bill at the shop. After watching your video, I thought why not try it. I found the whole kit, clutch, pulley, coil, everything, at my local parts store for $90. Less than an hour later, voila, I have cold AC again. Super easy thanks to your video. Many Thanks!!
Just use the old bearing to hit the new one in. Fits perfectly.
Never thought about it, thanks man.
My bearing was totally shot and fell apart haha
Be sure to drive the center of the old bearing when driving in the center part of the new bearing, or the outer part when driving in the outer part of the new bearing (say, into the pulley recess). Do not drive one part of the bearing causing forces to run through the balls (or rollers) of the new bearing to the other part you intend to drive in or you will damage the balls.
You want to clean the rust out and make it spotless if you want it to last. Give rust a starting point like the outside of the race and it's only got to migrate around the edge to the bearings and it eats itself again... waste of a part. See my freezer trick in the comments. And always prep your surfaces and remove *ALL* rust! Penetrating oil the surfaces and they will slide together easier too.
Maybe put bearing in the freezer for a bit may also help. Will shrink it a .001" or so
I appreciate your video. I have a 2005 3.0 Ford Escape. I got a replacement pulley for $96.50 at O'Reilly's Auto. It already has the new bearing in it. The engine sets sideways so THANK GOD the pulley is easy to get to by taking off the tire and dust shield. I Pretty much followed your video step by step and the job was done within an hour. Thanks again. Signed, RUclips Mechanic!
Hey man you are a zenius too because you didn't waste a second & gave the excellent results, love you. *
Your voice is easy for old man to hear which is nice. Ty
I never knew it was that easy to change the clutch. My own has stopped engaging and I was planning on carrying it to my AC guy. This video has given me the impetus to try fixing it myself.
😊
This is probably the most helpful video I have seen regarding proper spacing. Most videos dont even mention it.
thx!
Your video really helped me out I deeply appreciate it I’ve never done this before follow your instructions everything perfect I was going to be changing the whole compressor but when I came across your video pointing out certain things mine ended up being the clutch as well save me time and stress thank you great job dude
Put the bearing in the freezer for a few hours. Helps install.
That’s the trick that I use. The bearing almost drops in.
I have no clue on how to work on auto ac, but your video is very clear and easy to follow you. Thanks!
I know it’s been since 2014 but thanks a lot buddy....you saved me at least $400 in a new compressor. Thanks!!!!!
man.....you are my go to guy. You posted this video which is EXACTLY what i was looking for. Just thank you dear sir.
I know this video was posted a few years ago but, thanks! just finished my truck and you made it easy. Keep em coming!
Thank you!! Watched your video, took off the old parts and got the news on in relatively no time at all. I would have had no idea what I was doing without your help.
One of the best video I've seen on RUclips! Your camera work is excellent! The sound and lighting and clarity of image was excellent! And you know what you're talking about! I'm a video professional and My hat is off to you! I thoroughly appreciate this video!
I fixed my compressor magnetic clutch and annoying bearing noise based on your video, thanks man!!!
***** Awesome, glad to hear it. Thanks for commenting.
Great video. Just did my 2000 GT. I almost waited too long. Couldn't even turn the bearing by hand and there was no rubber it the outer section. I did find that the wheel shims I had for my old RC10 worked perfectly. There are very thin and I came in a .020. Hobby shops may still carry these if you need them in a pinch.
I have the same problem. Different Ford but hopefully I have enough room to pop the clutch out without having to remove the compressor. Big thanks for the video.
if you put the pulley in an oven overnight, at a low temperature, and the bearing in the freezer, once you pull it out of oven, lubricate the inside of the pulley, and the bearing. they'll will slide into each other very smoothly simultaneously 👌
Good video.. 1 issue though.. you realize that spinning the pulley while using the pry bar isnt doing what you think it is. The inside of bearing that makes contact with the Ac.compressor is spinning so even though you are spinning the pulley... you are putting pressure on the same spot where its connected.. so u were making it bind more.
Other than that.. helped me a lot.. thanks!
Nice video, dude! You sure have an extensive knowledge of car repairs as I also watched most of your other videos.
Instead of using the screwdriver to prevent it from rotating while you remove that bolt, try using an oil filter tool. It is easier to get a good trip with it and it stays out of the way better. I tried it both ways and using the oil filter tool is way easier.
TLDR: oil filter wrench instead of screwdriver to hold clutch still.
Nice, gonna try that.
Exellent! saved me from getting the whole compressor! Thank You.
Good tutorial man.. I own Hyundai grand i10. I heard abnormal noise when I turn on the AC. When I took it to Hyundai service centre they told it was bearing noise and recommended me to change entire compressor. Now I have to take it local service shop to get the work done
Thanks very much for this... changed my clutch and bearing out yesterday in less than an hour.
I was thinking I needed a press, but the hammer really worked well and safe ! Thanks bud !
Heat the bearing with a torch until its cherry red and put the pulley in the freezer, should drop right in fellas. Trust me.
Heat the pooley with the torch???
What happens then with the lube inside bering and the plastic seal??
God FORBIT!!!😮😮😮
Hi this video is very helpful to us Grab Driver, Grab is a ride sharing app similar to Uber, in the Philippines. Now im planning to use some clippings of your video to create a Philippine language version of the uninstalling the spacer in compressor clutch to limit the gap between the clutch & pulley. Im requesting your permission to this. Thank you in advance.
This was very helpful. My car is a 2010 corolla even though it's different from your car the system works the same way. My ac stopped blowing cold the other day and only gets cool when my car is in motion while idling it is warm. Can you tell me the best way to diagnose warm ac? I'm not low on coolant. My best guess is a leak or my compressor or clutch.
Great job of showing how to do this. I need to replace the coil, but it is only one more step once you have off the pulley and bearing. Thanks.
***** np, good luck with the repair. thanks for watching.
Thank you very much for your video, it has been very useful for me. One Question: how long should the Clutch remain activated in each cycle?
Have the same problem with our RX300. Going to look into finding a replacement compressor clutch. Thanks Man!
Thanks for letting other people know and sharing your knowledge.
Great video. Very easy to see what you are doing under the hood!
Love how clear your videos are. Thank you.
Best video on how to remove the hub bearing. Thanks.
Excellent, very concise. But in my case, everything that was supposed to pull out was very stuck. Also, found it critical to use *heavy duty* snap ring pliers. Most notably, the top part of the clutch (3:24), to the point I I was unable to even *pry* it out, and that's taken for granted in *every* video of this procedure I've found. I eventually got it out after alternately shooting Free All penetrating lubricant into the center hole and on top of the rim to get behind the plate and turning the plate, then putting it back with a longer center bolt of the same threading, so the vibration of driving the vehicle could work the lubricant in while driving it. Eventually I was able to free it by tapping the end with a hammer while turning it, bouncing the hammer along the edge while moving it over a bit. The Free All did work its way into the splines. Then I applied anti-seize to the splines so this doesn't happen again. As of this edit I'm waiting for the Free All to work through to be able to hammer the remains of the bearing out. Should have replaced the entire clutch assembly, because the coils looks beat. But that's a project for another day.
How many shops on here charging people triple for you logging into RUclips 😭😂
In Miami they'll charge $6-700 to replace a compressor when it only needs the clutch bearing.
super helpful and just finished changing my ac clutch, bearing and pulley. Thanks for the help!
Hi there, great job.I need advice. I changed my ac clutch assembly, so coil, pulley with bearing and clutch. Ac is working fine when i turn it on, clutch is fully engaged and compressor is spining just fine. I left space between clutch and pulley even more than it should be but when my ac is turned off clutch is spining here and there a little bit and it's making unpleasant noise, should i add even more spacers? When i had belt off the pulley was little bit wobbling, i didnt have to hummer it on, i just put it there with hand, so it had little play.
thank you so much. this saved me so much time and money, it was driving me nuts!
Bypass
You can also put the bearing in a freeze for a couple of hours and the pulley in an oven set to 300F and you should be able to just drop the bearing into the pulley.
Upallnight Good idea, thanks for commenting. cheers
Were did you get the bearing to buy
Very much appreciated my friend. Great info for us beginners. Keep up the good work!
Always enjoy you the videos, Your the best.
Easy, that is, in a RWD car. I have to do this on my Protege5 (pretty sure the bearing is shot, noisy with the A/C off and the noise goes away when you engage the A/C), and there sure isn't much room between the clutch assembly and the chassis rail. If I have to detatch the compressor to get the clutch off, this will become a b-and a half job. Blech. Nevertheless, this vid was very well done, kudos.
Great Presentation! Any advice about 2015 Jaguar XF 2.0 T ? clutche is not engaging, low and high pressure are igual and around 125 psi. Since the system is not working I am assuming that it the expansion valve, but I am not an expert.
learned a lot from you in 2 videos. thank you
Hey man awesome video! I noticed the clutch stopped at the end of the video.. this is whats happening to mine on my Jeep wrangler. Is that normal that the clutch spins and then stops?? thanks !
You could use the old bearing to tap on when installing the new one
Hi my friend I’m working on a2008 civic the ac compressor stays engage all the time I change the compressor condenser expansion valve even the climate control from the junkyard and still nothing fans and compressor stays on don’t know what else to do is cooling good but I know the compressor supposed to disangage
Hi ,Excellent video i was wondering the clearance between the clutch? i hear you saying .014----.030 thousandths of an inch correct?? i know some is .045 ths of an inch.... so im saying it probably best to measure the distance with a feeler gauge "first BEFORE it is take apart and that way,put it back with the original spacers/washers and recheck it for your measurement as take "originally"....mmmmmm ty for input
Thanks a lot! It was the same procedure on my 93 bronco, just on top of the motor instead of the bottom
You can put the new bearing on the feezer and heat up the pulley...it will slide inside without the hummer...
great job tnx.why producers dont build the clutches alone for repair cases?
Thank you for this instructive video. I think when you hammer-out the bearing you should be wearing ear plugs. (I admit I usually think of earplugs after hammering)
Thanks for posting this video! Very helpful.
I've got this noise happening on my 97 Bonneville. I'm on a tight budget right now and can't afford a whole new compressor so what exactly is it that is causing this noise? If I take everything apart and clean it and then replace just the clutch, bearing and spacers like you've done here, should I be in the clear? That should save me a little money compared to replacing the whole a/c compressor unit.
Excellent job!! Thanks for sharing knowledge!!
Thank God for you making this video. Can't wait to do it myself hahaha I did not want to go to someone and get ripped off so happy!!!! Very thorough.
Great video brother.. my 03 Trailblazer has a compressor that does not engage, haven’t been able to troubleshoot yet.
Put the barring in freezer over night it will get smaller. Sometime fits in smoothly if you go straight to the hole. But once it warms it will tight up because it get to normal size.
Good video.... one thing I like to do is put the bearing in the freezer about 3 hrs to shrink it down a little and in some cases it will just slide in. Obviously I know before hand am doing something like this or not in a hurry.
what is the torque spec for 10mm bolt ?
A really good video for the repair of the A/C clutch. Thank you very much for this. I'm going to do the one on Ford Explorer.. This made it easier to say the least..
Grat video, great edition!. Greetings from Argentina!
Would the specs on the space be the same no matter what vehicle you replace the clutch on? Or does it depend on the vehicle and clutch? Thanks
Straight to the point and easy to follow.
Do you think service of long time when you change one part of cluth...
GOOD STUFF MAN,, THANK YOU AND GOD BLESS,
Thanks for this video. Did the same job on my 01 Ford Econoline 5.4L. Boy it sure was a bitch because there was about two inches of clearance for my hammer, but I managed to get it done. Just took a lot of effort and patience. I ended up buying a whole clutch assembly because I couldn't get the old bearing out. The old bearing disentegrated so only the outer race was left. Either way I ended up needing a coil anyway.
I Have 2001 Chevy Tahoe. I purchased an A/C clutch the whole thing clutch and bearings but I realized that one of the wires that come of the clutch( clutch coil connector ) had shorted out. I wiggle it and ac kicks on and off. I was wondering should I just cut the wire and tie on a new connector. Just change the whole clutch since I already bought it. Also I decide to change the clutch . Does it like your video or will I need a special tool. I was told by a friend I might need some removal tool. Thanks Dude good video.
I just realized I loaned out my c clip pliers and never got them back. That was 5 years ago.
Go get it back, tiger.
I got tired of tools forgetting to come back home. Now I have a list of loaned out tools posted on my file cabinet so don't have to rely on memory as I've aged LOL.
I would be furious,can you get the guys tel.number?
Great video, saves a lot of money thank you
I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma. I was driving down the road at 45 miles an hour. I had the defroster on. Suddenly, I heard a loud howling noise and smoke was coming out from the hood. The smoke was coming from the ac compressor. The air con pully has no issue, but then the clutch is engaging or engaged it makes the howling noise. Is that a bad clutch? What parts should I change?
Good job once again, thank you so much man. I'm gonna do this job, not gonna video it this time but this helped me a lot thank you again!
Great vid! I have some questions, i am soon going to do a similar job with my civic 05. My question is that you deduced that play is in clutch whereas pulley is fine, ok agreed but talking about clutch, how do you make sure where is problem is? Is it the spacers? clutch itself? or the rotor going bad?
In my case, pulley has play (confirmed) but i am not sure about clutch play, so what do you suggest me? I change the pulley bearing, spacers but how do i make sure that clutch itself needs replacement or not? and how to make sure that rotor is not bad i.e no play in rotor itself?
Sorry if my post is not clear, i tried to present details as much as i can
that you edit ur video, to cut out the stuff that is easy,is very good. thanks
Thank you brother good job! Helped me in a real pinch!. You rock bro👊👍
Thank you this was helpful but how do I take off the piece behind the pulley? Thanks
3rd time coming back to this video!
Buen video gracias!!
Tu video me dio toda informacion para arreglar mi auto..
if you got time. freeze the bearing over nite in the freezer and it will slide in easier.
Great job. Put the new bearing in the freezer for an hour while you work on the other parts. It contracts and goes into the bore more easily
for hammering in the bearing, instead of a socket try a piece of wood a little larger in dianter than the bearing-it'll absorb the worst of the impact of the hammer but still drive down the bearing.
He did it right driving the outer race in place but he screwed the pooch hammering the pulley back into place because he should have used a socket on the INNER RACE the same way he hammered the out race in place. The way he did it he put the stress on the bearings (rather than directly on the races) which is a guaranteed way to reduce the life of the bearing. I'd like to know how long this bearing lasted before it failed again.
I also disagree with using a PRY BAR to remove the pully at the beginning because this puts undue force on the bearings inside the compressor (pulling on the shaft). A wheel puller is the right tool to use and you can BORROW one from most of the name brand auto parts supplier so there really is no excuse for doing it the way he did.
Thanks for helping me with the gap measurement
Did you remove the radiator? I need to do this on a '98 Crown Vic and was wondering about removing the radiator
Do you think I need to replace the whole compressor unit even if the ac works when I switch it on? There is only noise, and no loss in cold.
i have an 01 olds aurora and i need to replace the bearing but not the clutch it works great as far as ac and heat but makes a scratchy noise many mechanics have told me its just my bearing in my a/c compressor so can i replace just the bearing? or do i have to replace the clutch also? because with my specific make and model they dont sell a clutch if i want to replace that i have to buy a whole different compressor which is a ridiculous amount of money
Does it always has to be the same space you mentioned in the video for all of the clutches out there
Thank you for your excellent contribution, it was exactly the same issue with my Jag s type
Great video. Very well lit. I have a 2012 F-150 that I suspect has a bad AC clutch. Do you think this procedure would work on an F-150?
Lou Vaillancourt I'm doing mine on a 2000 f150 in the morning ..same procedure.
Great video. This will help me as I diagnose and repair my GMC
Mike Zupancic Glad you liked it, thanks for commenting.
I've got a 2012 GMC Terrain and my clutch just took a dive, can I replace the clutch on my compressor without taking it off the vehicle or having to recover/recycle the refrigerant in it. hope not sure would save alot of money and time. Thank you hope to hear from you soon.
Oh forgot I've got the 2.4L in it.
Yes, you can, as long as you don't remove the AC compressor from the car. You do not need to remove the AC lines to change the clutch. Just follow the instructions in this video.