While working at a public range for a number of years, I’ve seen a number of accuracy issues. The most common by far was the shooter. One fairly common issue was resting the barrel on the front bag or block. I’ve even seen RUclips videos by so called ‘gun guys,’ doing this. 😖 Another was ammo; someone would shell out big $$ for a rifle only to cheap out on ammo or worse yet, shoot mixed brand, and/or bullet weight in the same mag.
The majority of shooters have no marksmanship training and thus they do not know the importance of exacting NPA, what it is, or how to get it. Typically this shooter will realize the desired sight picture via muscle and this produces inconsistent recoil resistance which alters aim as the bullet clears the bore. At any rate, of course the rifle must be unitized too, but I suspect the biggest gains in accuracy will come as the shooter learns to transfer the stability of the ground into the position via bone/artificial support to get muscular relaxation which will reveal Natural Point of Aim. How am I certain of this? I am a Military Rifle Instructor assisting the USAMU deliver SDM, TTT, and SAFS Training.
Good points but relative to the shooting discipline Bench rest guys will free recoil their rifles Prs and nrl22 guys work around props and time constraints. We often cant get into a good position by the design of the props. Field target or 3 position guys will need to best npa into their brain
I take note what you say is very true. However I find 22 rimfires very frustrating as the hold pressures are so critical and the ammo consistently is just not good enough regardless of how much one spends on it. I can put 3 shots through one hole at 100 meters with my Surgeon 300 win mag but can never do it at 50 meters with my Anschultz 1710 .22LR.
Great tips Josh! I have experienced three of those issues myself! Loose base screws, dirty firing pin channel and loose action screw. Also, had a burr on a crowned muzzle from the factory.
Parallax adjustment is huge if possible. A while back I noticed my brother having trouble with groups at 50 yards and everything seemed to be good as far as mounting goes. I noticed he was lifting his head after every shot, and got him to keep his eye on the target throughout the entire magazine, and he improved a little. So then I get behind his rifle and as I positioned behind the scope I noticed the crosshairs dance around the target as I settled in and that's when I realized what was going on. So he thought just because he had his parallax set smack on at 50 yards that he was good to go, I told him it was merely a guideline to get you close. So I made the adjustment to what looked good to me, and his dial was reading roughly at 75-80 yard's (it was shy of 100 yards by a very small touch of the dial), anyway he had seen this and I said just try it, and so he did. And just from that adjustment and him keeping his cheek on the stock through the entire magazine he was able to tighten his group by roughly 3/4" (yeah he was all over the place at 50 and it was that bad), he was SO happy after that and he was able to keep the rest of his groups under 1/2" since, and this was probably 12-15 year's ago. Do not trust the marked Parallax knob on your scope, it's will only get you in the ball park.
Yeah for sure. Thats why i tend to harp on not moving if you dont need to. If you got great equipment it doesnt matter a bunch but if you got a scope thats fixed parallax at a different distance then your in trouble. Good catch....the numbers do lie sometimes lol
One afternoon on range 66 at Ft. Bragg I was teaching Soldiers how to get good hits with the ACOG at 600 meters. While the ACOG is supposed to be free of parallax it is not and at 600 meters I discovered that the sight could present sight pictures with as much as 18 inches of error. Thus, when my group of Soldiers went to the firing line I instructed them to anchor their eyeball’s relation to the eyebox via their stockweld and maintain the relationship for all of their ten rounds of fire. One of the Soldiers I was coaching however was a knucklehead, lifting his head after each shot to annotate a data book. This Soldier thus had 10 misses due to parallax and I thought that would end my coaching stint. It turned out that my other 5 shooters had perfect scores even in spite of a 10 mph prevailing crosswind. At any rate, after the dust had settled and the smoke cleared I was informed that my students won the event and we were all awarded challenge coins by the Post Commander. I was just relieved that I would not loose my job coaching. Your story reminded me of my story.
Thank you for your interesting and informative video!!!! I didn't think about problems with the firing pin hanging up due to bures or fouling, but I have put oil where the firing pin resides. I'm kinda surprised that you didn't mention the MUZZLE for any kind of problems! KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK PROMOTING THE 2ND AMENDMENT!!!! I've got a BUNCH of older (100 year old+ 22lrs) single shots that I need to check out. Of course I don't expect LAZER BEAM accuracy from them but do wish REASONABLE ACCURACY considering different factors like scarcity, age and COOLNESS!!! I have purchased a WIDE ASSORTMENT of different types and manufacturers ammo to try out!! My oldest 22lr rifle is a Remington Rolling Block 1 1/2 sporter that is in pretty NICE CONDITION that has been relined, so I kinda expect pretty good accuracy especially since it has a NICE TRIGGER, they made less than 5,000 of them in ALL the different rim-fire cartridges that they were chambered in but don't know how many 22lrs were made!!!! I haven't been able to find out much about them. They were made between 1880's-1890's!!!😮😊😊
Additional,,,, Always check the crown, I have repaired many crowns to have amazing improvements in accuracy. If ALL of the stated problems are checked and multiple brands/types of ammo have given no acceptable improvements, Check the barrel bedding. (And action bedding)Some rimfires like to free float and others hate it! Try temporary pressure bedding the barrel with business cards or paper, try different pressures AKA how much shim you shove between the bbl and stock. If all the sudden it says to you " I AM HAPPY NOW" a good gunsmith will know how to pressure bed the rifle WITH the shim stock you provide that works. A smith can do this work also, but it is time consuming and is going to cost you.
Bonjour Monsieur, je suis tireur sportif en France, je viens d'acquérir une Mossberg 44 pour pratiquer le TAR dans mon pays (Tir aux Armes Réglementaires) Pourriez-vous m'aider et m'indiquer le couple de serrage du fût sur la crosse s'il vous plaît ? Je vous en serais grandement reconnaissant.
Josh, great video and simple suggestions. One other suggestion is to fine tune the headspace. You can do this by adding bolt shims. I put these into my CZ 457 and it greatly improves accuracy. Some factory rifles are chambered to "sporter" dimensions and will never achieve the level of accuracy that a Bentz or Match chamber can provide. Lastly, as we have watched from your many videos (thank you), the brand of ammunition usually makes a difference.
You'll learn a lot of the same things shooting a pellet gun. Constantly check your base your scope mounts and the screws holding your barrel to the stock. If you don't your accuracy is going to get worse and worse.
nice video but you don't specify what is the "shooting quite right" mark. what is the acceptable MOA for an off-the-shelf stock rifle and medium priced ammo?
Some rimfire’s are like a stubborn knot head that can’t be changed. But that makes your chosen ones that much more sweeter. As for the same with people.
Good video Josh I would add a few things one is bore diameter compared to bullet diameter I like to be .001 thou over bore, second bed your action if there is any back and forth with the action screws out , third is make sure the action screws are not touching the stock inside the hole only the action block and the bottom of the stock.
Josh , when torquing the action screws on a bolt action , I usually 1) make sure the action is firm against the recoil lug in the stock, 2) tighten the rear screw first , then the front screw . Recently at the range, one of my most respected colleagues told me I should tighten down the front screw first then the rear . I’m shooting a Sako p94s , and the area under the bolt that contacts the recoil lug is very shallow . I’m concerned that by tightening the front action screw first, I may get suboptimal contact between the action and the recoil lug that is bedded in the stock . What are your thoughts on order of which screw to tighten first?
I am a high master long range competitor and to win at this level everything that is important to good shooting must be applied. All of my HS precision stocks have action screws torqued to 67 inch lbs. First, beginning with forward screw, it is hand tightened then the rear screw is hand tightened. Next torque is set on front screw then rear screw. This procedure raises the muzzle while also clearing the breech end of barrel in front of recoil lug from contact with the stock.
Been doing the RIMFIRE thing now for about three months. So, Im gonna ask you to provide a grading standard - as subjective as it may be. I understand ones standard may differ to another’s. So, under normal or good conditions, shooting three to five strings, five shots each at 50 yards, what would you consider an A grade group, a B grade group, and C grade group?? (Based on group size). Regardless of ones equipment and experience. Just overall. Feel free to use your own expectations …you have for yourself. …. Or the average experienced shooter …
Good pointers for accuracy. May I mention two considerations? First, ensure the rife cant is consistent (To physically see the profound accuracy effect of inconsistent cant, purposely rotate the rifle while aiming). Second, ensure that the rifle butt is consistently pulled into your shoulder (I have found that inconsistent shoulder placement/retention causes the same issues as maladjusted action screws).
@@BD-ft3uw eh hard to compare. I think the cz457 would beat it apples to apples in accuracy. The Sako barrel swap system is much easier, you dont have to pull the stock at all. The b14r is a different rifle altogether. The action feel of the cz or sako beats its. But its 700 compatable so it has thay going for it.
@@brianhagerty9324 it lets me go back 90 days. I just refunded your charge from Jan to now. Please cancel it if you dont want to be charged. Patreon does all that, im not the one whos actually charging you.
Good list of accuracy problems. Only others I can think of are , bedding issues, and a damage crown. Sometimes a crown star forming on the crown and a small piece of it comes off on a bullet = instant flier . How do I know this ? Don’t forget to wipe your crown when cleaning
Thank you for the tips. I have been enjoying your videos for a while now. I am attempting to start shooting in a local 22lr match. I have a rifle. I am looking for your opinion on a rest or bipod and a recommendation for both. Also do you have a recommendation for a rear bag and what to look for when picking one out. Thank you in advance!
What kind of 22lr match? Atlas bipods are really good. I dont use rests so cant really recommend anything there. For a rear bag i like the gamechanger pint size and a schmedium for my prop shooting bag.
@@PursuitofAccuracy the match is sponsored by my gun club. It is 22lr rimfire 100yd match. The targets are 5 to a page and about 3in in diameter. They also have a bench rest match 22 rimfire, which requires bags. There is a rifle weight, and sight requirement. I haven't been to the second match yet. I currently have a small tripod about 8in tall and no rear bag. I know I need equipment but I wanted your input prior to purchasing. Thank you for the advice!
I would pretty much do everything Josh just ran down. Probably my best equipment is my inch lb torque screwdriver and a digital level to mount my scopes plumb. A good set of rings is a must. A good cleaning of the chamber and possibly the bore. The action screws 10-30 inch lbs in the 5 increments he mentioned, and most importantly, a good amount of ammo in varying flavors to find what your 22lr likes best, and wind flags, the slightest wind can push the little 22lr around a lot, a 1 moa rifle in the wind is pretty good, in calm it should do a lot better, I use surveyors tape at each target distance, and a solid foundation to shoot from, a bag, a bipod, or a shooting rest helps. I use a pint-size game changer, accutac bipods and a target shooting 500 model rest with the upgraded adjustment knobs, it a hell of a good rest and will last a lifetime
Thanks for the info , i shoot a Rim x in nrl22 , im newer to the shooting game. Bought the cz 457 to practice with a lighter gun for setup and balance ( my Rim X is 23 lbs) . Going to keep plugging along , sure its something on my part.
![FendiDa Rappa - Clock Dat ft. Shamar Marco [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3NBU8KHdxYY/mqdefault.jpg)
Most of my accuracy troubleshooting has resulted in finding problems with the nut behind the steering wheel.
Lol a lot of us
While working at a public range for a number of years, I’ve seen a number of accuracy issues. The most common by far was the shooter. One fairly common issue was resting the barrel on the front bag or block. I’ve even seen RUclips videos by so called ‘gun guys,’ doing this. 😖
Another was ammo; someone would shell out big $$ for a rifle only to cheap out on ammo or worse yet, shoot mixed brand, and/or bullet weight in the same mag.
The majority of shooters have no marksmanship training and thus they do not know the importance of exacting NPA, what it is, or how to get it. Typically this shooter will realize the desired sight picture via muscle and this produces inconsistent recoil resistance which alters aim as the bullet clears the bore. At any rate, of course the rifle must be unitized too, but I suspect the biggest gains in accuracy will come as the shooter learns to transfer the stability of the ground into the position via bone/artificial support to get muscular relaxation which will reveal Natural Point of Aim. How am I certain of this? I am a Military Rifle Instructor assisting the USAMU deliver SDM, TTT, and SAFS Training.
Good points but relative to the shooting discipline
Bench rest guys will free recoil their rifles
Prs and nrl22 guys work around props and time constraints. We often cant get into a good position by the design of the props.
Field target or 3 position guys will need to best npa into their brain
I take note what you say is very true. However I find 22 rimfires very frustrating as the hold pressures are so critical and the ammo consistently is just not good enough regardless of how much one spends on it. I can put 3 shots through one hole at 100 meters with my Surgeon 300 win mag but can never do it at 50 meters with my Anschultz 1710 .22LR.
Great tips Josh! I have experienced three of those issues myself! Loose base screws, dirty firing pin channel and loose action screw. Also, had a burr on a crowned muzzle from the factory.
Thanks for watching
GREAT VIDEO JOSH ...!!!!!! THANK YOU FOR YOUR SKILLS ON ACCURACY ...!!!!
Parallax adjustment is huge if possible.
A while back I noticed my brother having trouble with groups at 50 yards and everything seemed to be good as far as mounting goes. I noticed he was lifting his head after every shot, and got him to keep his eye on the target throughout the entire magazine, and he improved a little. So then I get behind his rifle and as I positioned behind the scope I noticed the crosshairs dance around the target as I settled in and that's when I realized what was going on.
So he thought just because he had his parallax set smack on at 50 yards that he was good to go, I told him it was merely a guideline to get you close. So I made the adjustment to what looked good to me, and his dial was reading roughly at 75-80 yard's (it was shy of 100 yards by a very small touch of the dial), anyway he had seen this and I said just try it, and so he did. And just from that adjustment and him keeping his cheek on the stock through the entire magazine he was able to tighten his group by roughly 3/4" (yeah he was all over the place at 50 and it was that bad), he was SO happy after that and he was able to keep the rest of his groups under 1/2" since, and this was probably 12-15 year's ago.
Do not trust the marked Parallax knob on your scope, it's will only get you in the ball park.
Yeah for sure. Thats why i tend to harp on not moving if you dont need to. If you got great equipment it doesnt matter a bunch but if you got a scope thats fixed parallax at a different distance then your in trouble.
Good catch....the numbers do lie sometimes lol
One afternoon on range 66 at Ft. Bragg I was teaching Soldiers how to get good hits with the ACOG at 600 meters. While the ACOG is supposed to be free of parallax it is not and at 600 meters I discovered that the sight could present sight pictures with as much as 18 inches of error. Thus, when my group of Soldiers went to the firing line I instructed them to anchor their eyeball’s relation to the eyebox via their stockweld and maintain the relationship for all of their ten rounds of fire. One of the Soldiers I was coaching however was a knucklehead, lifting his head after each shot to annotate a data book. This Soldier thus had 10 misses due to parallax and I thought that would end my coaching stint. It turned out that my other 5 shooters had perfect scores even in spite of a 10 mph prevailing crosswind. At any rate, after the dust had settled and the smoke cleared I was informed that my students won the event and we were all awarded challenge coins by the Post Commander. I was just relieved that I would not loose my job coaching. Your story reminded me of my story.
Thank you , that is a lot of great information for us to start with . Great video 🍻🍻🍻
Forgot to check the crown !!! Everything else is spot on.👍
Yeah true. Ive never personally had a bad crown so didnt pop up in the ole noggin
great info as always brother.
A 10 minute soak with carbon remover in the chamber will make a huge difference. Can't do this too often
TRY CLOVER LAPPING CMPND!
Thank you for your interesting and informative video!!!! I didn't think about problems with the firing pin hanging up due to bures or fouling, but I have put oil where the firing pin resides. I'm kinda surprised that you didn't mention the MUZZLE for any kind of problems! KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK PROMOTING THE 2ND AMENDMENT!!!! I've got a BUNCH of older (100 year old+ 22lrs) single shots that I need to check out. Of course I don't expect LAZER BEAM accuracy from them but do wish REASONABLE ACCURACY considering different factors like scarcity, age and COOLNESS!!! I have purchased a WIDE ASSORTMENT of different types and manufacturers ammo to try out!! My oldest 22lr rifle is a Remington Rolling Block 1 1/2 sporter that is in pretty NICE CONDITION that has been relined, so I kinda expect pretty good accuracy especially since it has a NICE TRIGGER, they made less than 5,000 of them in ALL the different rim-fire cartridges that they were chambered in but don't know how many 22lrs were made!!!! I haven't been able to find out much about them. They were made between 1880's-1890's!!!😮😊😊
Excellent tips. Thank you!
Have a Lithgow LA101, bolt shims drastically improved its accuracy.
I want to get my hands on a la101
Nice scope and gun
Additional,,,, Always check the crown, I have repaired many crowns to have amazing improvements in accuracy. If ALL of the stated problems are checked and multiple brands/types of ammo have given no acceptable improvements, Check the barrel bedding. (And action bedding)Some rimfires like to free float and others hate it! Try temporary pressure bedding the barrel with business cards or paper, try different pressures AKA how much shim you shove between the bbl and stock. If all the sudden it says to you " I AM HAPPY NOW" a good gunsmith will know how to pressure bed the rifle WITH the shim stock you provide that works. A smith can do this work also, but it is time consuming and is going to cost you.
The manufacturer of the rifle will happily tell you the torque specs. Making sure the bolt, bolt face, and action is clean.
I see a missed opportunity to get commission on selling me a chronograph and other stuff you use in your videos.
Just a personal choice to not make money off products I feature. Removes any doubt that the review is honest.
Thanks for this, keep up the great work 👍
Thanks
What chrono is that?
True ballistics fx chrono
Thanks for another informative video. I appreciate the way you make your point, deliver the pertinent information and move on. Good stuff.
Thanks brother
Bonjour Monsieur,
je suis tireur sportif en France, je viens d'acquérir une Mossberg 44 pour pratiquer le TAR dans mon pays (Tir aux Armes Réglementaires)
Pourriez-vous m'aider et m'indiquer le couple de serrage du fût sur la crosse s'il vous plaît ?
Je vous en serais grandement reconnaissant.
Josh, great video and simple suggestions. One other suggestion is to fine tune the headspace. You can do this by adding bolt shims. I put these into my CZ 457 and it greatly improves accuracy. Some factory rifles are chambered to "sporter" dimensions and will never achieve the level of accuracy that a Bentz or Match chamber can provide. Lastly, as we have watched from your many videos (thank you), the brand of ammunition usually makes a difference.
Quick question; do you think a blem 457 Mtr is a good buy at 559$? Website states it’s only cosmetic
Yeah sounds like it
If it’s the same ad I saw, stay away. It’s a scam company.
You'll learn a lot of the same things shooting a pellet gun. Constantly check your base your scope mounts and the screws holding your barrel to the stock. If you don't your accuracy is going to get worse and worse.
Great tips Josh.
nice video but you don't specify what is the "shooting quite right" mark. what is the acceptable MOA for an off-the-shelf stock rifle and medium priced ammo?
.5 at 50 is acceptable
Some rimfire’s are like a stubborn knot head that can’t be changed. But that makes your chosen ones that much more sweeter. As for the same with people.
Good video Josh I would add a few things one is bore diameter compared to bullet diameter I like to be .001 thou over bore, second bed your action if there is any back and forth with the action screws out , third is make sure the action screws are not touching the stock inside the hole only the action block and the bottom of the stock.
Josh , when torquing the action screws on a bolt action , I usually 1) make sure the action is firm against the recoil lug in the stock, 2) tighten the rear screw first , then the front screw . Recently at the range, one of my most respected colleagues told me I should tighten down the front screw first then the rear . I’m shooting a Sako p94s , and the area under the bolt that contacts the recoil lug is very shallow . I’m concerned that by tightening the front action screw first, I may get suboptimal contact between the action and the recoil lug that is bedded in the stock . What are your thoughts on order of which screw to tighten first?
I typically run both in hand tight then tighten the front and rear in two steps
I am a high master long range competitor and to win at this level everything that is important to good shooting must be applied. All of my HS precision stocks have action screws torqued to 67 inch lbs. First, beginning with forward screw, it is hand tightened then the rear screw is hand tightened. Next torque is set on front screw then rear screw. This procedure raises the muzzle while also clearing the breech end of barrel in front of recoil lug from contact with the stock.
@@charlesludwig9173 Thank you
What barrel manufacturer and length would you recommend for bench rest 50 too 100 . Cz457 mtr
Im honestly not sure what the bench rest guys are running. I would defer you to your local BR club, those guys usually got a secret squirrel combo
A 22 lr guy said the reason for so many accuracy accesaries for 1022 is the slug gets damaged on the way to the chamber .
The magazine is pretty rough on them but it surprisingly doesnt affect the accuracy as much as youd think at 50 etc
Good information thanks
Been doing the RIMFIRE thing now for about three months. So, Im gonna ask you to provide a grading standard - as subjective as it may be. I understand ones standard may differ to another’s. So, under normal or good conditions, shooting three to five strings, five shots each at 50 yards, what would you consider an A grade group, a B grade group, and C grade group?? (Based on group size). Regardless of ones equipment and experience. Just overall. Feel free to use your own expectations …you have for yourself. …. Or the average experienced shooter …
Id say an avg of .25 or less is A
.3 or less B
.4 or less C
@@PursuitofAccuracy Thanks…good to know and a way to grade myself …appreciate it.
What is the wood-stock rifle in this video?
Just a oem stock
@@PursuitofAccuracy I don't mean the stock itself -- I meant what rifle is it? CZ 457? Tikka T1X? I'm just guessing here.
@@tenrec Sako quad
Good pointers for accuracy. May I mention two considerations? First, ensure the rife cant is consistent (To physically see the profound accuracy effect of inconsistent cant, purposely rotate the rifle while aiming). Second, ensure that the rifle butt is consistently pulled into your shoulder (I have found that inconsistent shoulder placement/retention causes the same issues as maladjusted action screws).
Did you check any of these during your Springfield 2020 Rimfire review?
Yes, the barrel is garbage
@@PursuitofAccuracy Good to know to pass on it then.
@@fjr86 yeah man, odds are pretty low you get a decent shooter
Wise words Mate.
Great stuff 💯💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥
Thanks brother
Your Welcome @@PursuitofAccuracy
What brand and model number is the rifle?
Thats a sako quad
@@PursuitofAccuracy
How do you find the sako quad compared to a cz457 or Bergara b14r?
Thanks
@@BD-ft3uw eh hard to compare. I think the cz457 would beat it apples to apples in accuracy.
The Sako barrel swap system is much easier, you dont have to pull the stock at all.
The b14r is a different rifle altogether. The action feel of the cz or sako beats its.
But its 700 compatable so it has thay going for it.
What bore camera do you use?
The teslongs
@@PursuitofAccuracy Ty ty
Thanks Josh
Appreciate ya steve
Please stop charging me for $1 q month
What are you talking about?
@@PursuitofAccuracy the Patron. You got rid of the $1 a month level but I’m still being charged.
@@brianhagerty9324 thats strange, did you cancel it? I will look on my end now
@@brianhagerty9324 it lets me go back 90 days. I just refunded your charge from Jan to now.
Please cancel it if you dont want to be charged. Patreon does all that, im not the one whos actually charging you.
@@PursuitofAccuracy thanks
Good list of accuracy problems.
Only others I can think of are , bedding issues, and a damage crown.
Sometimes a crown star forming on the crown and a small piece of it comes off on a bullet = instant flier .
How do I know this ?
Don’t forget to wipe your crown when cleaning
You also need to check the crown. The smallest nick or bur on the crown will really screw you.
Thank you for the tips. I have been enjoying your videos for a while now. I am attempting to start shooting in a local 22lr match. I have a rifle. I am looking for your opinion on a rest or bipod and a recommendation for both. Also do you have a recommendation for a rear bag and what to look for when picking one out. Thank you in advance!
What kind of 22lr match?
Atlas bipods are really good.
I dont use rests so cant really recommend anything there.
For a rear bag i like the gamechanger pint size and a schmedium for my prop shooting bag.
@@PursuitofAccuracy the match is sponsored by my gun club. It is 22lr rimfire 100yd match. The targets are 5 to a page and about 3in in diameter. They also have a bench rest match 22 rimfire, which requires bags. There is a rifle weight, and sight requirement. I haven't been to the second match yet. I currently have a small tripod about 8in tall and no rear bag. I know I need equipment but I wanted your input prior to purchasing. Thank you for the advice!
I have that rifle in left hand and its a horrible shooter. Talking 1.5 inch at 50 yards . Tried almost everything so far . Frustrating for sure.
The sako?
Sorry, I thought that was the cz 457 varmint. My bad.
I would pretty much do everything Josh just ran down. Probably my best equipment is my inch lb torque screwdriver and a digital level to mount my scopes plumb. A good set of rings is a must. A good cleaning of the chamber and possibly the bore. The action screws 10-30 inch lbs in the 5 increments he mentioned, and most importantly, a good amount of ammo in varying flavors to find what your 22lr likes best, and wind flags, the slightest wind can push the little 22lr around a lot, a 1 moa rifle in the wind is pretty good, in calm it should do a lot better, I use surveyors tape at each target distance, and a solid foundation to shoot from, a bag, a bipod, or a shooting rest helps. I use a pint-size game changer, accutac bipods and a target shooting 500 model rest with the upgraded adjustment knobs, it a hell of a good rest and will last a lifetime
Thanks for the info , i shoot a Rim x in nrl22 , im newer to the shooting game. Bought the cz 457 to practice with a lighter gun for setup and balance ( my Rim X is 23 lbs) . Going to keep plugging along , sure its something on my part.
@ericlaplante7326 my cz 457 varmint is very accurate.
Excellent tips brother
Thanks brother