Very informative I bet you had a RadioShack( battery of the month) club card in your pencil pocket protector and was AV club president before the rest of the kids in your class learned how to tie their shoes, (just funnin' with ya) excellent presentation!🖖✌️🐾
Great video. Thanks for going through getting the electric to the fans in really great detail. I have an LG C9 that is every once in a while just freaking out then restarting. Happens inconsistently but I believe it is probably due to overheating.
Terrific idea! I keep having issues with the vid processor board running hot in my 2018 65in vizizo p series. Apparently the solder gets soo hot it softens, sense the board is vertical, gravity pulls on the soften solder causing TV to power up but it cycles on/off once then nothing. Iv baked the board laying it horizontally twice now in the past year and half and it's helped to get the solder to flow back where it belongs in places. Unfortunately, I don't think it's a good continuing practice. The main heat sink vizio ships with these vid chips are a joke in my opinion. Soo iv planned to purchase two 120mm inlet and three 180mm outlet fans. Power them externally via 120 wall with a simple on/off toggle inline. Cutting out to mount flush the two inlet fans inline with the heatsink plate, then roughly 8 to 10inch above them mount the three outlet fans. In theory, this should allow for the right amount of cool air drawl onto and upward to be exhausted. Heat rises, so I shouldn't have much re-circulation at all. The goal being, to help pull the heat off and away from the heatsink, so in return it'll run not as hot while in use. Any thoughts or advice?
That's unfortunately common. Reflow solder that melts at relatively low temps plus chips that can survive temps high enough to soften it. You may not need that many fans at all, since any active airflow will dramatically increase the effectiveness of the existing thermal management. Most of the power of the TV is in the backlight, which is better spread out. I'd say put the two 120s pointed at the heat sinks of the processor board, but allow the air to passively filter out through the remaining vents. Once you have fans pushing air, hot air rising under convection is largely irrelevant because the force of the fans is so much greater. Get low noise fans so you're not distracted by the sound during quiet parts of the show.
Thanks :) As for the fans, it's a bit tough to explain, but I'll try. Warning- wall of text :P Those fans don't pull continuous power, but take it in short pulses. When not taking a pulse, the fan stops any electricity flow for both itself and anything else in series. So the fan "upstream" interrupts power to the "downstream" fan, and the downstream interrupts the upstream the same way. The sharp interruptions make the parts of the fan vibrate and make noise. The capacitor gives each fan a little reserve of power it can use even when the other fan is not letting any electricity flow. This smooths out the pulses enough so that the noise is less.
I have attached an aluminium heatsink & 1 fan to the tv cpu, cause at summer, Samsung's cpu get really hot and tend to fail. Now, CPU is constantly cold.
i have the bigger brother of that LC420SS8. how did you actually physically tap into the 16v rail? directly to the diode like you had the aligator clip? then you just grounded the fans in series to the case?
I'm running a salvaged Xbox 360 double fan mounted externally fed through a 5(+ -) cordless phone charger adapter switched through a surge protection (125 volt + -) strip all connected through my apartment wall killswitch.... but which way should I mount the fan? blowing In on the mother board? or sucking air out of the Unit?.. .
The Xbox was designed for air to be sucked out by the cooling fans, so I would recommend doing that. Get a tight air seal between the fans and the xbox and make sure you are moving enough air. The 360 is kinda notorious for overheating.
I really appreciate the thoroughly described repair process. I also have a LCD TV with overheating issues (Philips 26PFL3403D/10). I noticed it first time after picture distortion and black screen appeared. While inspecting the inside I've noticed that wire insulation near the connector of LVDS cable has crumbled. After replacain LVDS cable picture returned to normal, but overheating which caused the problem remains. There is also noticeable discoloration on motherboard and some buldged caps on power supply. I was planning to install a pair of 5V fans with USB connector that could easily be plugged in service port, but all 8mm and 6mm I found are 2500 and 2900 rpm which would be noisy. I've uploaded some images of above mentioned at postimg.org/gallery/29wpn8qxy/ Can you advise me what to do in this case and where would you mount the fans? It would be much appreciated.
I would replace those caps for sure. They aren't doing any favors if they are bulged like that. Look for low speed 12V 80mm fans, and probe to see if that power supply has a 12 volt output. Running two fans in series on 12 or 16 volts like I did will make them slow down a lot, but they will need parallel capacitors to smooth the power delivery. If possible I would mount them in the bottom grille or cut a hole in the lower back of the case to force cool air in and over the problem areas.
![I APPLIED HIGH VOLTAGE TO WATER TOYS [Dangerous]](/img/1.gif)
Very informative I bet you had a RadioShack( battery of the month) club card in your pencil pocket protector and was AV club president before the rest of the kids in your class learned how to tie their shoes, (just funnin' with ya) excellent presentation!🖖✌️🐾
Great video. Thanks for going through getting the electric to the fans in really great detail. I have an LG C9 that is every once in a while just freaking out then restarting. Happens inconsistently but I believe it is probably due to overheating.
Hi, these 5 years since you did this still work well tv
Well done! Good job! 👍
Terrific idea! I keep having issues with the vid processor board running hot in my 2018 65in vizizo p series. Apparently the solder gets soo hot it softens, sense the board is vertical, gravity pulls on the soften solder causing TV to power up but it cycles on/off once then nothing. Iv baked the board laying it horizontally twice now in the past year and half and it's helped to get the solder to flow back where it belongs in places. Unfortunately, I don't think it's a good continuing practice. The main heat sink vizio ships with these vid chips are a joke in my opinion. Soo iv planned to purchase two 120mm inlet and three 180mm outlet fans. Power them externally via 120 wall with a simple on/off toggle inline. Cutting out to mount flush the two inlet fans inline with the heatsink plate, then roughly 8 to 10inch above them mount the three outlet fans. In theory, this should allow for the right amount of cool air drawl onto and upward to be exhausted. Heat rises, so I shouldn't have much re-circulation at all. The goal being, to help pull the heat off and away from the heatsink, so in return it'll run not as hot while in use. Any thoughts or advice?
That's unfortunately common. Reflow solder that melts at relatively low temps plus chips that can survive temps high enough to soften it.
You may not need that many fans at all, since any active airflow will dramatically increase the effectiveness of the existing thermal management. Most of the power of the TV is in the backlight, which is better spread out. I'd say put the two 120s pointed at the heat sinks of the processor board, but allow the air to passively filter out through the remaining vents. Once you have fans pushing air, hot air rising under convection is largely irrelevant because the force of the fans is so much greater. Get low noise fans so you're not distracted by the sound during quiet parts of the show.
Love your videos.:)
How did the capacitor make the fan quieter? What;s the electronic reason?
Thanks :)
As for the fans, it's a bit tough to explain, but I'll try. Warning- wall of text :P
Those fans don't pull continuous power, but take it in short pulses. When not taking a pulse, the fan stops any electricity flow for both itself and anything else in series.
So the fan "upstream" interrupts power to the "downstream" fan, and the downstream interrupts the upstream the same way. The sharp interruptions make the parts of the fan vibrate and make noise.
The capacitor gives each fan a little reserve of power it can use even when the other fan is not letting any electricity flow. This smooths out the pulses enough so that the noise is less.
I have attached an aluminium heatsink & 1 fan to the tv cpu, cause at summer, Samsung's cpu get really hot and tend to fail.
Now, CPU is constantly cold.
i have the bigger brother of that LC420SS8. how did you actually physically tap into the 16v rail? directly to the diode like you had the aligator clip? then you just grounded the fans in series to the case?
edit nvm... i saw how you secured it.
I'm running a salvaged Xbox 360 double fan mounted externally fed through a 5(+ -) cordless phone charger adapter switched through a surge protection (125 volt + -) strip all connected through my apartment wall killswitch.... but which way should I mount the fan? blowing In on the mother board? or sucking air out of the Unit?..
.
The Xbox was designed for air to be sucked out by the cooling fans, so I would recommend doing that. Get a tight air seal between the fans and the xbox and make sure you are moving enough air. The 360 is kinda notorious for overheating.
I really appreciate the thoroughly described repair process.
I also have a LCD TV with overheating issues (Philips 26PFL3403D/10). I noticed it first time after picture distortion and black screen appeared. While inspecting the inside I've noticed that wire insulation near the connector of LVDS cable has crumbled. After replacain LVDS cable picture returned to normal, but overheating which caused the problem remains. There is also noticeable discoloration on motherboard and some buldged caps on power supply.
I was planning to install a pair of 5V fans with USB connector that could easily be plugged in service port, but all 8mm and 6mm I found are 2500 and 2900 rpm which would be noisy. I've uploaded some images of above mentioned at postimg.org/gallery/29wpn8qxy/
Can you advise me what to do in this case and where would you mount the fans? It would be much appreciated.
I would replace those caps for sure. They aren't doing any favors if they are bulged like that. Look for low speed 12V 80mm fans, and probe to see if that power supply has a 12 volt output. Running two fans in series on 12 or 16 volts like I did will make them slow down a lot, but they will need parallel capacitors to smooth the power delivery. If possible I would mount them in the bottom grille or cut a hole in the lower back of the case to force cool air in and over the problem areas.
woow
LOL " Like So"
Wow, his voice is definitely not annoying and unenthusiastic, the grumpyness made me feel grumpy 🙄😒