i would never think that grunge brush would work. i broke mine trying to clean my mountain bike chain. out of all the videos that ive seen with cleaning a mountain bike chain, this has been the most helpful out there on youtube. thanks for putting this up, i think u just got my trust in the grunge brush to
Great post. Your instructions were very well presented. Thanks for explaining how and why to lube the inside circumference of the chain. That makes a lot of sense. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for this video! My chain and sprockets are about a year old or so, i have tight spots in my chain. I believe it is because of unproper chain care!! I will now clean and lube my chain the way you depicted in the video! Very informational.
Genuinely good tutorial. Really nice to see all the key points about dirt, which precise points of the chain to lube, which direction, centrifugal force etc. all mentioned. I think I learnt something new and now have a better perspective on what I should be doing. Sub!
I cleaned my chain yesterday, used 1 liter of kerosene($1.10 per liter), one old tooth brush but in good condition and one third can of 3M Brake cleaner ($4.99 per 14 onz can) I had to remove old lube, grit and grease put there by the dealer mechanics. I took the kerosene put it in a spray bottle and sprayed the kerosene all over the chain and sprockets, then I used the tooth brush to remove all the grit and grease, it just melted of, then I took a rag and cleaned the chain, after cleaning the chain with the rag, I took the 3M Brake Cleaner and sprayed the chain and the sprockets, this cleaner left it super clean and dry. To lube it I used 80/90 gear oil (Manufacturer's recommendation)and applied it heavily to the chain's inner and outer sides, I left it there to drip the excess oil, then I put the chain covers and went on a 50 mile ride. I've been doing this every 500 kilometers since I purchased the bike.
I wouldn't use the brake cleaner regularly. Nearly all formulas of it have a tendency to eat and/or degrade the plastic of the o-rings in the chain. Especially if they're rubber or neoprene. That said, if you don't have a choice, or have done it already it won't do enough damage to matter but you don't want to be doing every time you re-lube after a ride in the rain.
For safety, rotate rear wheel only in reverse as you did. If you go forward, you could have your rag catch the chain and pull your hand into the sprocket. I had a cousin lose the tip of his thumb that way. In all my bikes I have added the R&G tor guards. Should that happen, the toe guard will deflect the hand out and away from the sprockets. Also, don't go too fast. Safety! Remember my cousin. Good information in your video.
I've been using ipone chain clean and chain spray. the cleaner just melts all the dirt/oil/grease/gunk off AND even rust! Barely needs any scrubbing and the chain spray is a no drip system that doesn't need to be wiped after. Really happy with the product.
Kerosene works very well. I used to use it myself, but switched to the chain clean products a couple years ago for ease of use, smaller storage and to avoid the fumes. Also, in my area, kerosene isn't readily available at many hardware stores year round. I still know many people that use kerosene with great success. A thin coating is good to leave on the outside of the links. Wiping them down, as in the video, just removes the excess which tends to fling and capture particles.
@mcg22cc sounds good. Just remember that even though the chain wax goes on very thick. The heat of the chain as you ride will increase it's viscosity and allow it to penetrate the o-rings and rollers. That's why a little goes a long way. It'll also help to clean and lube the chain while it's warm from riding.
Kerosene works well as another alternative. We like the chain clean simply due to ease of use and storage. There are several effective options though. An old toothbrush will work, although a brush with longer/stiffer bristles will be more effective on the beefier chains. Thanks for the additional input.
very very helpful. small details i have to change when cleaning and applying lube to my chain that i would never have know about if not for ur video. Thank you
good stuff, I have been putting this simple maintenance off for a while, so I'm going to try to get this done today. First I need to get on the bike for a little fun run!
@lukochayan depends on how you're washing your bike. If you're spraying the whole thing down and using agents that will break down the lube on your chain, then you should clean and lube the chain each time you wash the bike. If you're spot cleaning & avoiding the chain, you can address the chain on it's own schedule. The lubricant oil will tend to fling off more readily requiring regular application. Also, double check it's specs to make sure it won't break down under the high heat of the chain.
The chain cleaner in the video is Motul Chain Clean. Motorex also makes a chain clean as do a few other manufactures. I like either the Motul Factory Chain Lube or Motorex Street Chain lube. Those will both work fine on your bike in that climate, but there are other good options as well. I can't speak to Walmart's stock, but sites like Bikebandit and motorcyclesuperstore have the brush and all those products. Amazon has them too, with some qualifying for free shipping. Hope that helps.
@qwbyd It will definitely help. It may or may not get the rust off. It will certainly help protect it and when done from new can prevent rust. It it's already rusted, then after cleaning and lubing you want to check to see if the chain kinks. The links should come off of the sprocket and form a straight line. If any of them are kinked up or down from the one next to them and are hard to move back and forth by hand, then you'll want to replace the chain.
Usually, i'm using diesel and tooth brush to clean the chan and then, i'm using SAE 75W90 transmision oil to lubricate the chain. It works just perfect and amazingly cheap to compare with special chain cleaners and lubricants.
It's hard to give an exact frequency as weather, riding conditions, riding style, etc. have a big effect on how often the service is needed. I'd start at 500 mile intervals and adjust up or down as needed. You'll be able to see the difference in the chain before and after. Take the links and move them up and down with your hand before and after. You'll feel a difference as well. This will help you start to know how often it's needed. I like the Motul Chain Clean and Motul or Motorex lube.
That's great! I've mentioned before that I know people who have used WD40 with no problem. The key though, is that WD40 is not the proper chemical formulation for this use. It can work, but given several factors: displacement, power, type of riding, chain type, o-ring style, maintenance interval, environmental conditions, etc, etc, it may not work and cause problems. So, I prefer to recommend something specifically designed for the use, rather than put people in the position of trial & error.
@beeroosterm Not sure what you saw, but zero on the tire. Been doing this a long time, most of it on race bikes that get over to the edge of the tire within the 1st couple corners, and never made that mistake.The spray is actually 6 to 8 inches in front of the tire and at a slight downward and forward angle. The can has a fine tip nozzle built in, as opposed to the straw which also works, allowing you to direct the spray. The curve of the tire also puts it even further away from any over spray.
That really depends on a number of factors: how often you ride, what weather you're riding in, what road conditions, the type and quality of lube you're using, etc. In Southern California, you can go with a longer interval due to lack of mud, rain, road salts, etc. Elsewhere it'll be much shorter. The more you do it you'll know by looking when it's due. You can start somewhere in the every 250 to 500 mile zone and adjust the interval as needed.
Very good Vid. Covered it all. I still like to use Kerosene for cleaning. Apply very liberally with a small paint brush and then scrub. Kerosene is mfg's recommended and cheap. Using lots really flushes out the gunk. Also I don't mind leaving a thin coating of lube on the outside of the chain links; help prevent rusting.
Kerosene does work well. I used to use it myself, but eventually found the purchase,storage and use of a designated chain cleaner to be a tidier option. That's just my personal preference.
Yes, they do. You spray once down the line of o-rings furthest from you and the second revolution sprays down the line closest to you. Obviously reverse order is fine as well. Typically if the nozzle is a couple inches away while you're spraying the o-rings, there is enough oversparay that you get sufficient lube on the rollers and side plates at the same time. Hope that answered you're question. We should have a revised video up soon that will show everything in close up.
The weather will mainly effect the frequency with which you need to clean and lube the chain. The bike, horsepower and most importantly the way you ride will effect how hot the chain gets more so than the weather. The rain will cause more dirt and debris to get flung up and trapped in the chain. So, you'll need to attend to the chain maintenance more often. You don't necessarily need a specific formulation of chain lube. I like the Motul Factory, Bel Ray or Motorex Street.
for those interested, you can use diesel oil and a toothbrush to clean the chain thats what manuals say, and finally you can use kitchen paper to finish cleaning it so that way you will not have dirty cloths everywhere
@scarekr0 Depends a somewhat on the weather, the bike, the chain, etc. Without all that info, I'd say once a month to month and a half is a good place to start. As you get used to doing it on a regular schedule, you'll get a feel for how much your chain "needs" it and whether you need to shorten or extend that interval.
I usually do, but primarily for aesthetic reasons and pure cleanliness rather than it having a direct effect on the performance and lifetime of your chain. Typically there isn't enough transfer of dirt and debris from the sprocket to the chain to cause issues with it. However, it's certainly a good time to clean both since the application of the chain cleaner will loosen any build up on the sprocket as well.
Regular engine oil doesn't have the viscosity necessary to resist the centrifugal force and stay in place over long periods of time on a chain. It makes a fine lubricant, but you'll experience a lot of fling off and need to reapply frequently. Designated chain lubes are really very inexpensive when compared to how far they'll go. One can will be good for 5,000 miles or more of recommended interval applications. There are always other options, but I like the right tool for the job at hand.
The lube is white in color based on it's formulation. I believe the use of lithium creates the white color. It's not necessarily stronger, it just depends on what brand you're comparing to what. Some people like the white lube, because they can see more clearly where the lube is being applied. As you ride the bike and the lube heats up and moves into the rollers and o-rings, as well as picks up dirt, it will become less apparent.
Great video. Thanks for helping others. You should post a video teaching how to clean the radiator. What products do you recommend? How do you recommend to do it? Thanks
@NoBody1399 That really depends on a number of factors: how often you ride, what weather you're riding in, what road conditions, the type and quality of lube you're using, etc. In Southern California, you can go with a longer interval due to lack of mud, rain, road salts, etc. Elsewhere it'll be much shorter. The more you do it you'll know by looking when it's due. You can start somewhere in the every 250 to 500 mile zone and adjust the interval as needed.
@specificlyvague whether or not the lube will be effected by washing depends on what cleaning agent you're using, how much of it gets on the chain and how long it sits there. In general, most lubes will hold up fine to water, they're designed to hold up to and protect your chain in inclement weather. You're best bet, though, is to lube the chain after you've finished cleaning the bike. You can clean the chain anywhere in the process that makes sense for you.
That can often occur after a ride, even with minor moisture. Some chains are much more prone to it than others. Clean and lube the chain as usual and the friction between the rollers and the sprockets will clean them right up on your next ride.
Thanks! This information should be in bike manuals. Just think how many improperly maintained chains are on the road. I have ridden for years and only cleaned chains with a brush and a rag. thanks for posting (over 4 years ago!)
I'm assuming the rust is forming on the side plates and not on the rollers themselves. So, it won't really effect the function of the chain, but I understand it's not the best cosmetic look. First, you can spray the lube on the surface of the side plates in addition to the area shown in the video to protect it from rusting. Just give it a light wipe to avoid excess fling. You can also try a heavier, lithium based lube, like Bel Ray. Lastly, you can remove the existing rust with 000 steel wool.
excellent how to video, Can you tell me what the difference between a chain lube and a chain wax is. I got a chain lube from the dealer but I really dont like it. It flings off and is yellowish color. I ride a streetbike daily in the summer, no dusty or muddy conditions just street riding also, some stunting so if you could recomend a chain lube or wax I'd appreciate it. Thanks
@coldfiregixxer Typically, if you're spinning the wheel by hand and cleaning the bottom of the chain, it will be moving away from the sprocket, making that very unlikely. However, it never hurts to be as cautious as possible. With that in mind, two keys. First, solidifying the above point, always clean the chain while it's moving away from the sprocket. Second, use a brush rather than a rag to scrub the chain while it's moving. Use the rag to wipe the chain in segments while it's stationary.
@NoiKayla WD-40 is typically not recommended for use on O-ring chains. The "WD" in WD-40 actually stands for water dispersal. WD-40 is designed to provide a film which protects against moisture and corrosion, as well as reducing friction between 2 surfaces. That is why most people jump at using it on chains. However, it doesn't properly penetrate and lube the o-rings, especially the newer Z and X rings, and can even degrade the OE grease contained in them, resulting in early degradation.
Hi, I live near Dubai and the weather is normally pretty humid and sandy. what sort of chain lube should I be looking for? I was going to buy the one on your video demonstration by default. Thanks
@Pgbiker Good question. Simple Green's website lists that it was originally designed for all purpose air craft cleaning and is safe on rubber. I know several people I've raced with that have used it on their chains without issue. Chains are replaced more frequently under race conditions though, making it difficult to determine the long term effects on the o-rings. I would email Simple Green and ask for a recommended dilution ratio which would be safe for this particular application.
very nice video great job..just wanna ask what would be the best chain lube for middle east weathers as u here is always sands so just wanted to know plz thanx
I prefer to use the designated chain cleaning products from Motul or Motorex, to name two. However, kerosene is a great cleaner as well. If you have a non o-ring chain, you can use WD40. I know some people will also use it on o-ring chains with no problems. It's not the ideal formulation and I've moved away from it, after using it years ago, but it's an option.
From the information you've provided, it should be alright. I'd be happier if it specifically said that it was safe for use on o-rings though. I haven't come across that product personally, so I really can't provide additional input.
very nice guide, best on the internet! I've heard it's forbidden to clean a chain with gasoline, but it's possible to clean a chain with diesel or kerosene. is it correct?
The issue with old oil is that it has lost some of it's viscosity, so it's more likely to fling off. It's also full of contaminants that aren't ideal for the o-rings. Cleaning is definitely necessary. Without cleaning, it's like always changing your oil without putting a new filter on. If specific products are hard to come by, I would clean with kerosene and lube with new oil or WD40. You will probably need to clean and lube more often with those two lubricant options.
That's better than simply leaving the filter in place. The problem is that most oil filter media, unlike lifetime air filters, is not designed to be cleaned. So it will start to break down, letting larger and more damaging debris float around in the engine. It's difficult with the construction of oil filters to see this break down and judge when to replace. As long as they're pushing the petrol with some pressure in the proper direction, it will clean it, but is definitely not ideal.
Hi, I like your video... I just cleaned and lubed my chain using Motorex cleaner and race lube (white with Teflon)I did what you said and wiped of excess, but did not clean front sprocket. I notice the lube is already a little dirty on the rollers. Is this bad? Should I do it all over again?
@mgrande11 What lube where you using? Any fling will either be a function of the formulation of the lube used, an excess amount that is used or excess that is on the side plates and isn't wiped down prior to use. Granted, you almost always get some, which is why most bikes come stock with a chain guard to "catch" it. If you do get some on the wheel and bodywork, Honda Spray Cleaner & Polish is an excellent product for removing it.
thanks for the great video! do the o rings on the back side get lubed? it doesn't appear they would from the angle you are spraying. thanks in advance.
@rgaufman Your actually better off going for the ride prior to cleaning the chain. The heat produced will make it easier for the old lube and accumulated dirt and grease to come off of the chain. If the chain is cleaned correctly, I don't think there is any benefit to warming it up prior to lubing it. That's more likely to stress the o-rings and rollers, although minimally, than anything.
In general, every 100 to 300 miles. Where you fall in that range will depend on what conditions you're riding in. Essentially, if there is build up of dirt and grime or you can see that the applied lube has worn away, then it's time to do it again.
@coldfiregixxer Good point. However, the key to avoiding such injury is performing the cleaning with the bike off. All such injuries that I'm personally aware of or have heard about occurred while trying to utilize the engine to turn the wheel and clean the chain more quickly. I should have made specific mention of avoiding injury, but if you follow the method presented you will do just that.
A lot of videos and guides I can find recommend cleaning the chain, then going for a short ride to warm up the chain before lubing it. Is there any validity to this recommendation?
Moly lube is typically used in shaft driven motorcycles. It's an excellent lubricant, but won't resist flinging. Hence it's use in a relatively sealed system. I'd stick with a chain lube.
@HighOctanePowersport thanx sir really help full for me....if u dont mind asking you another question....everytime i ride my bike i can hear crunch noise coming from right side of my steering (triple clamp or near from there what is that ???? any idea it can be hear whenever i apply breaks for whenever i turn the bike.......plz advice thanx
@Gokumitsu9000 the wd in wd40 actually stands for water dispersal. So while wd40 does provide a film allowing for free movement between 2 surfaces, its formulation won't actually lubricate the o-rings. Since, they do come out of the box greased, that won't be an immediate problem, but it's not the best long term choice. It works fine on non o-ring chains, though. Again, you'll need more frequent application with wd40 than chain lube.
While I own a motorcycle other than a Honda - and I critically consider all Honda product to be some of the finest product ever and always, I've come to prefer both their chain lube and motor oil. The only other chain lube I like - prefer is that from Dumonde Tech.
You're right. You'll notice that we've improved the lighting for our second video on throttle adjustment. We'll probably reshoot this one soon with better lighting and closer cuts. Thanks for the response.
@fulanunan The rollers roll by definition, which allows the chain to turn around the sprocket. That process is what drives your bike forward. You're trying to maintain the chain so that process happens smoothly, but you're not looking to eliminate friction between the two. The sprocket will wear, it's supposed to. It's a poor analogy, but think of it this way. You don't lube your break pads to avoid wear to the rotors. Stopping system vs. drive system, similar concept.
@mgrande11 Thanks for the compliment on the vid. It's hard to balance comprehensive with going overboard covering every possible nuance. Hopefully, I can redo it with better quality soon. As for a chain maintenance interval. I could give 1000 different suggestions all based on weather, riding conditions, chain type, etc., etc. The best advice is that as you do it more and more, you'll know by looking when it's due. Failing that, 1 to 2 times per month, depending on the length of your commute.
@AbdulRa7eeM That's hard to say. I know that kerosene is fine to use and will not harm the o-rings. Both kerosene and white spirit have a hydrocarbon base for their formulation. Beyond that, I don't know. This takes me back to why I usually recommend using products specifically formulated for the job. It just removes the guess work. I know white spirit is excellent for removing grease from metal, but I can't give you a definitive answer regarding it's effects on the o-rings.
TNX FOR THAT INFO .. VERY HELPFUL. BUT NOW DAT U MENTIONED FILTER.. ITS ALSO VERY RARE HERE SO WAT NORMALLY HAPPENS IS, THE OLD FILTER IS WASHED WITH PETROL AND PUT BAK... WAT DO U SAY ABOUT THAT TOO?? HELP!
The issue with that method is that you won't be able to remove all of the old lube and many of the finer particles that build up in it. The new layers of lube will then trap those particles and keep them wearing on your chain and o-rings for miles and miles to come. You want to heat the chain up by riding and then use a product to break down the old lube, thereby releasing the dirt and particles. Then clean and reapply.
@siekiersk I actually no longer have a lift to work with (see above). It is much easier with a stand. A few years ago there were only a few stand options and they were extremely expensive. Now there are a wide range available, many of which are relatively inexpensive. You can, of course, also simply roll your your bike forward a little at a time and work in segments. I've also used other work arounds in the past. If you want some more thoughts or options, let me know.
My chain is coated in dirt, I bought it about 2 weeks ago. My question is, what is the cleaner called and can I get the cleaner and grunge brush at walmart? Also, what kind of lube would you suggest for a '99 Ninja 500 street use in a humid area? And can I buy the chain lube at walmart too? I have a very long ride to visit a shop and they charge way too much for everything.
Somebody told me the " WD In " WD40 " Stands for water dispersant " It`s probable first main use was to spray on the electrics of machines like motorcycle and cars, And your right about it not really harming motorcycle chains, Not unless you dunked it in a tub for a long time ! I was told by a engineer that it would eventually eat through the bottom of a pair of trainers given long enough as it can breakdown rubber
@shj6yzf From your description, I would say you have some loose and damaged steering head bearings. If you you just had a "clunk, clunk" noise from the triple clamp when hitting the brakes, I would say they were simply loose and needed to be tightened. However, the crunching sound when stopping along with with whenever you turn the handlebars as well, would indicate that they are flat spotted or damaged.
Just going to lube tha chain on my new bike for the first time. So I just lube the orings, not the rollers? Wont there be wear between the sprokets and rollers then?
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Excellent video!!!
Finally someone telling the proper way of lubeing a chain through the inside!!!
Greetings from Spain!!!
As a new bike owner, I'm glad I found this. This was cut and clear. Really good vid!! I mean perfect!!!! Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks!!
i would never think that grunge brush would work. i broke mine trying to clean my mountain bike chain. out of all the videos that ive seen with cleaning a mountain bike chain, this has been the most helpful out there on youtube. thanks for putting this up, i think u just got my trust in the grunge brush to
Great post. Your instructions were very well presented. Thanks for explaining how and why to lube the inside circumference of the chain. That makes a lot of sense. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for this video! My chain and sprockets are about a year old or so, i have tight spots in my chain. I believe it is because of unproper chain care!! I will now clean and lube my chain the way you depicted in the video! Very informational.
This is THE video to watch for this 'how-to', as just about ever aspect has been covered, and you clearly know what you're doing.
Genuinely good tutorial. Really nice to see all the key points about dirt, which precise points of the chain to lube, which direction, centrifugal force etc. all mentioned. I think I learnt something new and now have a better perspective on what I should be doing. Sub!
Thanks for the info! Great tip to apply directly on the chain's upper side rather than just spraying on the sprocket.
Very Helpful!
I cleaned my chain yesterday, used 1 liter of kerosene($1.10 per liter), one old tooth brush but in good condition and one third can of 3M Brake cleaner ($4.99 per 14 onz can) I had to remove old lube, grit and grease put there by the dealer mechanics. I took the kerosene put it in a spray bottle and sprayed the kerosene all over the chain and sprockets, then I used the tooth brush to remove all the grit and grease, it just melted of, then I took a rag and cleaned the chain, after cleaning the chain with the rag, I took the 3M Brake Cleaner and sprayed the chain and the sprockets, this cleaner left it super clean and dry. To lube it I used 80/90 gear oil (Manufacturer's recommendation)and applied it heavily to the chain's inner and outer sides, I left it there to drip the excess oil, then I put the chain covers and went on a 50 mile ride. I've been doing this every 500 kilometers since I purchased the bike.
I wouldn't use the brake cleaner regularly. Nearly all formulas of it have a tendency to eat and/or degrade the plastic of the o-rings in the chain. Especially if they're rubber or neoprene. That said, if you don't have a choice, or have done it already it won't do enough damage to matter but you don't want to be doing every time you re-lube after a ride in the rain.
For safety, rotate rear wheel only in reverse as you did. If you go forward, you could have your rag catch the chain and pull your hand into the sprocket. I had a cousin lose the tip of his thumb that way. In all my bikes I have added the R&G tor guards. Should that happen, the toe guard will deflect the hand out and away from the sprockets. Also, don't go too fast. Safety! Remember my cousin. Good information in your video.
+Lajko1 This is very important for safety sake. Wish it had been mentioned in vid.
I've been using ipone chain clean and chain spray. the cleaner just melts all the dirt/oil/grease/gunk off AND even rust! Barely needs any scrubbing and the chain spray is a no drip system that doesn't need to be wiped after. Really happy with the product.
Kerosene works very well. I used to use it myself, but switched to the chain clean products a couple years ago for ease of use, smaller storage and to avoid the fumes. Also, in my area, kerosene isn't readily available at many hardware stores year round. I still know many people that use kerosene with great success.
A thin coating is good to leave on the outside of the links. Wiping them down, as in the video, just removes the excess which tends to fling and capture particles.
Good tips, espc the heat issue and also the centrifugal force issue. Never heard this anywhere before, thank you, it makes sense.
very simple, to the point, and compared to the other videos, really makes sense. thanks
Thank you. Always good to get it right from the experts!
This helped a lot, thank you for posting such a clearly explained tutorial.
@mcg22cc sounds good. Just remember that even though the chain wax goes on very thick. The heat of the chain as you ride will increase it's viscosity and allow it to penetrate the o-rings and rollers. That's why a little goes a long way. It'll also help to clean and lube the chain while it's warm from riding.
Kerosene works well as another alternative. We like the chain clean simply due to ease of use and storage. There are several effective options though. An old toothbrush will work, although a brush with longer/stiffer bristles will be more effective on the beefier chains. Thanks for the additional input.
very very helpful. small details i have to change when cleaning and applying lube to my chain that i would never have know about if not for ur video. Thank you
My pleasure, glad it was helpful.
Top Job ! Very Helpfull , Cant wait to lbue my bike chain , Nice when people take the time to help others ,, Thanks
good stuff, I have been putting this simple maintenance off for a while, so I'm going to try to get this done today. First I need to get on the bike for a little fun run!
This was really helpful. Thank you for the post. Wish I had known this a long time ago.
Really good video. Cleared tons of questions that I had.
great vid. Thanks. All the things that I thought I was doing wrong (or thought that there has to be a better way) - then you covered them well.
@lukochayan depends on how you're washing your bike. If you're spraying the whole thing down and using agents that will break down the lube on your chain, then you should clean and lube the chain each time you wash the bike. If you're spot cleaning & avoiding the chain, you can address the chain on it's own schedule. The lubricant oil will tend to fling off more readily requiring regular application. Also, double check it's specs to make sure it won't break down under the high heat of the chain.
The chain cleaner in the video is Motul Chain Clean. Motorex also makes a chain clean as do a few other manufactures. I like either the Motul Factory Chain Lube or Motorex Street Chain lube. Those will both work fine on your bike in that climate, but there are other good options as well. I can't speak to Walmart's stock, but sites like Bikebandit and motorcyclesuperstore have the brush and all those products. Amazon has them too, with some qualifying for free shipping. Hope that helps.
@qwbyd It will definitely help. It may or may not get the rust off. It will certainly help protect it and when done from new can prevent rust. It it's already rusted, then after cleaning and lubing you want to check to see if the chain kinks. The links should come off of the sprocket and form a straight line. If any of them are kinked up or down from the one next to them and are hard to move back and forth by hand, then you'll want to replace the chain.
Usually, i'm using diesel and tooth brush to clean the chan and then, i'm using SAE 75W90 transmision oil to lubricate the chain. It works just perfect and amazingly cheap to compare with special chain cleaners and lubricants.
It's hard to give an exact frequency as weather, riding conditions, riding style, etc. have a big effect on how often the service is needed. I'd start at 500 mile intervals and adjust up or down as needed. You'll be able to see the difference in the chain before and after. Take the links and move them up and down with your hand before and after. You'll feel a difference as well. This will help you start to know how often it's needed. I like the Motul Chain Clean and Motul or Motorex lube.
That's great! I've mentioned before that I know people who have used WD40 with no problem. The key though, is that WD40 is not the proper chemical formulation for this use. It can work, but given several factors: displacement, power, type of riding, chain type, o-ring style, maintenance interval, environmental conditions, etc, etc, it may not work and cause problems. So, I prefer to recommend something specifically designed for the use, rather than put people in the position of trial & error.
@beeroosterm Not sure what you saw, but zero on the tire. Been doing this a long time, most of it on race bikes that get over to the edge of the tire within the 1st couple corners, and never made that mistake.The spray is actually 6 to 8 inches in front of the tire and at a slight downward and forward angle. The can has a fine tip nozzle built in, as opposed to the straw which also works, allowing you to direct the spray. The curve of the tire also puts it even further away from any over spray.
That really depends on a number of factors: how often you ride, what weather you're riding in, what road conditions, the type and quality of lube you're using, etc. In Southern California, you can go with a longer interval due to lack of mud, rain, road salts, etc. Elsewhere it'll be much shorter. The more you do it you'll know by looking when it's due. You can start somewhere in the every 250 to 500 mile zone and adjust the interval as needed.
Very good Vid. Covered it all.
I still like to use Kerosene for cleaning. Apply very liberally with a small paint brush and then scrub. Kerosene is mfg's recommended and cheap. Using lots really flushes out the gunk. Also I don't mind leaving a thin coating of lube on the outside of the chain links; help prevent rusting.
Kerosene does work well. I used to use it myself, but eventually found the purchase,storage and use of a designated chain cleaner to be a tidier option. That's just my personal preference.
Yes, they do. You spray once down the line of o-rings furthest from you and the second revolution sprays down the line closest to you. Obviously reverse order is fine as well. Typically if the nozzle is a couple inches away while you're spraying the o-rings, there is enough oversparay that you get sufficient lube on the rollers and side plates at the same time.
Hope that answered you're question. We should have a revised video up soon that will show everything in close up.
The weather will mainly effect the frequency with which you need to clean and lube the chain. The bike, horsepower and most importantly the way you ride will effect how hot the chain gets more so than the weather. The rain will cause more dirt and debris to get flung up and trapped in the chain. So, you'll need to attend to the chain maintenance more often. You don't necessarily need a specific formulation of chain lube. I like the Motul Factory, Bel Ray or Motorex Street.
me gusta! nice and clear explanations and it seems professional Good one dudes
for those interested, you can use diesel oil and a toothbrush to clean the chain thats what manuals say, and finally you can use kitchen paper to finish cleaning it so that way you will not have dirty cloths everywhere
I like the Motul Factory chain lube. Motorex also has a good selection and Bel Ray is another good option.
@scarekr0 Depends a somewhat on the weather, the bike, the chain, etc. Without all that info, I'd say once a month to month and a half is a good place to start. As you get used to doing it on a regular schedule, you'll get a feel for how much your chain "needs" it and whether you need to shorten or extend that interval.
I usually do, but primarily for aesthetic reasons and pure cleanliness rather than it having a direct effect on the performance and lifetime of your chain. Typically there isn't enough transfer of dirt and debris from the sprocket to the chain to cause issues with it. However, it's certainly a good time to clean both since the application of the chain cleaner will loosen any build up on the sprocket as well.
Regular engine oil doesn't have the viscosity necessary to resist the centrifugal force and stay in place over long periods of time on a chain. It makes a fine lubricant, but you'll experience a lot of fling off and need to reapply frequently. Designated chain lubes are really very inexpensive when compared to how far they'll go. One can will be good for 5,000 miles or more of recommended interval applications. There are always other options, but I like the right tool for the job at hand.
The lube is white in color based on it's formulation. I believe the use of lithium creates the white color. It's not necessarily stronger, it just depends on what brand you're comparing to what. Some people like the white lube, because they can see more clearly where the lube is being applied. As you ride the bike and the lube heats up and moves into the rollers and o-rings, as well as picks up dirt, it will become less apparent.
Great video. Need to do this on my 13 Speed Triple, right now.
Great video. Thanks for helping others. You should post a video teaching how to clean the radiator. What products do you recommend? How do you recommend to do it? Thanks
@NoBody1399 That really depends on a number of factors: how often you ride, what weather you're riding in, what road conditions, the type and quality of lube you're using, etc. In Southern California, you can go with a longer interval due to lack of mud, rain, road salts, etc. Elsewhere it'll be much shorter. The more you do it you'll know by looking when it's due. You can start somewhere in the every 250 to 500 mile zone and adjust the interval as needed.
@specificlyvague whether or not the lube will be effected by washing depends on what cleaning agent you're using, how much of it gets on the chain and how long it sits there. In general, most lubes will hold up fine to water, they're designed to hold up to and protect your chain in inclement weather. You're best bet, though, is to lube the chain after you've finished cleaning the bike. You can clean the chain anywhere in the process that makes sense for you.
That can often occur after a ride, even with minor moisture. Some chains are much more prone to it than others. Clean and lube the chain as usual and the friction between the rollers and the sprockets will clean them right up on your next ride.
Thanks! This information should be in bike manuals. Just think how many improperly maintained chains are on the road. I have ridden for years and only cleaned chains with a brush and a rag. thanks for posting (over 4 years ago!)
I'm assuming the rust is forming on the side plates and not on the rollers themselves. So, it won't really effect the function of the chain, but I understand it's not the best cosmetic look. First, you can spray the lube on the surface of the side plates in addition to the area shown in the video to protect it from rusting. Just give it a light wipe to avoid excess fling. You can also try a heavier, lithium based lube, like Bel Ray. Lastly, you can remove the existing rust with 000 steel wool.
excellent how to video,
Can you tell me what the difference between a chain lube and a chain wax is. I got a chain lube from the dealer but I really dont like it. It flings off and is yellowish color. I ride a streetbike daily in the summer, no dusty or muddy conditions just street riding also, some stunting so if you could recomend a chain lube or wax I'd appreciate it. Thanks
@coldfiregixxer Typically, if you're spinning the wheel by hand and cleaning the bottom of the chain, it will be moving away from the sprocket, making that very unlikely. However, it never hurts to be as cautious as possible. With that in mind, two keys. First, solidifying the above point, always clean the chain while it's moving away from the sprocket. Second, use a brush rather than a rag to scrub the chain while it's moving. Use the rag to wipe the chain in segments while it's stationary.
Thank you very much. Now I'm going to go clean my chain properyly.
@NoiKayla WD-40 is typically not recommended for use on O-ring chains. The "WD" in WD-40 actually stands for water dispersal. WD-40 is designed to provide a film which protects against moisture and corrosion, as well as reducing friction between 2 surfaces. That is why most people jump at using it on chains. However, it doesn't properly penetrate and lube the o-rings, especially the newer Z and X rings, and can even degrade the OE grease contained in them, resulting in early degradation.
Hi, I live near Dubai and the weather is normally pretty humid and sandy. what sort of chain lube should I be looking for? I was going to buy the one on your video demonstration by default.
Thanks
@Pgbiker Good question. Simple Green's website lists that it was originally designed for all purpose air craft cleaning and is safe on rubber. I know several people I've raced with that have used it on their chains without issue. Chains are replaced more frequently under race conditions though, making it difficult to determine the long term effects on the o-rings. I would email Simple Green and ask for a recommended dilution ratio which would be safe for this particular application.
very nice video great job..just wanna ask what would be the best chain lube for middle east weathers as u here is always sands so just wanted to know plz thanx
I prefer to use the designated chain cleaning products from Motul or Motorex, to name two. However, kerosene is a great cleaner as well. If you have a non o-ring chain, you can use WD40. I know some people will also use it on o-ring chains with no problems. It's not the ideal formulation and I've moved away from it, after using it years ago, but it's an option.
From the information you've provided, it should be alright. I'd be happier if it specifically said that it was safe for use on o-rings though. I haven't come across that product personally, so I really can't provide additional input.
Thabks so much for the helpful vid - I'm off to get some chain cleaner now :D
very nice guide, best on the internet!
I've heard it's forbidden to clean a chain with gasoline, but it's possible to clean a chain with diesel or kerosene.
is it correct?
The issue with old oil is that it has lost some of it's viscosity, so it's more likely to fling off. It's also full of contaminants that aren't ideal for the o-rings. Cleaning is definitely necessary. Without cleaning, it's like always changing your oil without putting a new filter on. If specific products are hard to come by, I would clean with kerosene and lube with new oil or WD40. You will probably need to clean and lube more often with those two lubricant options.
That's better than simply leaving the filter in place. The problem is that most oil filter media, unlike lifetime air filters, is not designed to be cleaned. So it will start to break down, letting larger and more damaging debris float around in the engine. It's difficult with the construction of oil filters to see this break down and judge when to replace. As long as they're pushing the petrol with some pressure in the proper direction, it will clean it, but is definitely not ideal.
Hi, I like your video... I just cleaned and lubed my chain using Motorex cleaner and race lube (white with Teflon)I did what you said and wiped of excess, but did not clean front sprocket. I notice the lube is already a little dirty on the rollers. Is this bad? Should I do it all over again?
@mgrande11 What lube where you using? Any fling will either be a function of the formulation of the lube used, an excess amount that is used or excess that is on the side plates and isn't wiped down prior to use. Granted, you almost always get some, which is why most bikes come stock with a chain guard to "catch" it. If you do get some on the wheel and bodywork, Honda Spray Cleaner & Polish is an excellent product for removing it.
For someone it is a rocket science to maintance a chain.
Great vid. What products do you use? I could not understand. Thanks.
thanks for the great video! do the o rings on the back side get lubed? it doesn't appear they would from the angle you are spraying. thanks in advance.
@rgaufman Your actually better off going for the ride prior to cleaning the chain. The heat produced will make it easier for the old lube and accumulated dirt and grease to come off of the chain. If the chain is cleaned correctly, I don't think there is any benefit to warming it up prior to lubing it. That's more likely to stress the o-rings and rollers, although minimally, than anything.
Thanks for the tips. For lubbing though i herd the new thing at least for street bikes is to use WD-40. Its cheap and accesable. Any advice?
In general, every 100 to 300 miles. Where you fall in that range will depend on what conditions you're riding in. Essentially, if there is build up of dirt and grime or you can see that the applied lube has worn away, then it's time to do it again.
he makes it look easy , it must be nice to have your own stand and lift
@coldfiregixxer Good point. However, the key to avoiding such injury is performing the cleaning with the bike off. All such injuries that I'm personally aware of or have heard about occurred while trying to utilize the engine to turn the wheel and clean the chain more quickly. I should have made specific mention of avoiding injury, but if you follow the method presented you will do just that.
A lot of videos and guides I can find recommend cleaning the chain, then going for a short ride to warm up the chain before lubing it. Is there any validity to this recommendation?
I also saw one at a Sports Authority the other day in the bicycle section.
What are the products you use? Great vid!
@LoserBo1 Its a grunge brush. I got mine at the dealership with the degreaser for like $15. Works pretty good
Moly lube is typically used in shaft driven motorcycles. It's an excellent lubricant, but won't resist flinging. Hence it's use in a relatively sealed system. I'd stick with a chain lube.
@HighOctanePowersport thanx sir really help full for me....if u dont mind asking you another question....everytime i ride my bike i can hear crunch noise coming from right side of my steering (triple clamp or near from there what is that ???? any idea it can be hear whenever i apply breaks for whenever i turn the bike.......plz advice thanx
Great demonstration!
Thanks man! Very informative.
@Gokumitsu9000 the wd in wd40 actually stands for water dispersal. So while wd40 does provide a film allowing for free movement between 2 surfaces, its formulation won't actually lubricate the o-rings. Since, they do come out of the box greased, that won't be an immediate problem, but it's not the best long term choice. It works fine on non o-ring chains, though. Again, you'll need more frequent application with wd40 than chain lube.
While I own a motorcycle other than a Honda - and I critically consider all Honda product to be some of the finest product ever and always, I've come to prefer both their chain lube and motor oil. The only other chain lube I like - prefer is that from Dumonde Tech.
Awesome video!!! so helpful!! Thanks
Hello, I have an 86 Suzuki 550 L and I am wondering if you have any suggestions on what all to lube and how often on an older bike? Thanks
Thanks for the info. It definately helped.
You're right. You'll notice that we've improved the lighting for our second video on throttle adjustment. We'll probably reshoot this one soon with better lighting and closer cuts. Thanks for the response.
@fulanunan The rollers roll by definition, which allows the chain to turn around the sprocket. That process is what drives your bike forward. You're trying to maintain the chain so that process happens smoothly, but you're not looking to eliminate friction between the two. The sprocket will wear, it's supposed to. It's a poor analogy, but think of it this way. You don't lube your break pads to avoid wear to the rotors. Stopping system vs. drive system, similar concept.
@mgrande11 Thanks for the compliment on the vid. It's hard to balance comprehensive with going overboard covering every possible nuance. Hopefully, I can redo it with better quality soon. As for a chain maintenance interval. I could give 1000 different suggestions all based on weather, riding conditions, chain type, etc., etc. The best advice is that as you do it more and more, you'll know by looking when it's due. Failing that, 1 to 2 times per month, depending on the length of your commute.
motorcyclists of the world unite! you have nothing to lube but your chains!
@AbdulRa7eeM That's hard to say. I know that kerosene is fine to use and will not harm the o-rings. Both kerosene and white spirit have a hydrocarbon base for their formulation. Beyond that, I don't know. This takes me back to why I usually recommend using products specifically formulated for the job. It just removes the guess work. I know white spirit is excellent for removing grease from metal, but I can't give you a definitive answer regarding it's effects on the o-rings.
TNX FOR THAT INFO .. VERY HELPFUL. BUT NOW DAT U MENTIONED FILTER.. ITS ALSO VERY RARE HERE SO WAT NORMALLY HAPPENS IS, THE OLD FILTER IS WASHED WITH PETROL AND PUT BAK... WAT DO U SAY ABOUT THAT TOO?? HELP!
The issue with that method is that you won't be able to remove all of the old lube and many of the finer particles that build up in it. The new layers of lube will then trap those particles and keep them wearing on your chain and o-rings for miles and miles to come. You want to heat the chain up by riding and then use a product to break down the old lube, thereby releasing the dirt and particles. Then clean and reapply.
@siekiersk I actually no longer have a lift to work with (see above). It is much easier with a stand. A few years ago there were only a few stand options and they were extremely expensive. Now there are a wide range available, many of which are relatively inexpensive. You can, of course, also simply roll your your bike forward a little at a time and work in segments. I've also used other work arounds in the past. If you want some more thoughts or options, let me know.
Great video, thanks for explaining that.
My chain is coated in dirt, I bought it about 2 weeks ago. My question is, what is the cleaner called and can I get the cleaner and grunge brush at walmart? Also, what kind of lube would you suggest for a '99 Ninja 500 street use in a humid area? And can I buy the chain lube at walmart too? I have a very long ride to visit a shop and they charge way too much for everything.
I use WD-40 to clean my chain and PJ1 O-ring chain lube. PJ1 turns into a soft waxy substance when it dries so it won't fly off
Somebody told me the " WD In " WD40 " Stands for water dispersant " It`s probable first main use was to spray on the electrics of machines like motorcycle and cars, And your right about it not really harming motorcycle chains, Not unless you dunked it in a tub for a long time ! I was told by a engineer that it would eventually eat through the bottom of a pair of trainers given long enough as it can breakdown rubber
@shj6yzf From your description, I would say you have some loose and damaged steering head bearings. If you you just had a "clunk, clunk" noise from the triple clamp when hitting the brakes, I would say they were simply loose and needed to be tightened. However, the crunching sound when stopping along with with whenever you turn the handlebars as well, would indicate that they are flat spotted or damaged.
Just going to lube tha chain on my new bike for the first time. So I just lube the orings, not the rollers? Wont there be wear between the sprokets and rollers then?