How to Trim a Coat Closet | Ask This Old House
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- Ask This Old House general contractor Tom Silva trims a coat closet by installing a clothes rod and shelf. (See below for a shopping list, tools, and steps.)
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Shopping List for How to Trim a Coat Closet:
1x5 clear pine
1x12 clear pine
Metal clothes rod
Clothes-rod bracket
Construction adhesive
Tools for How to Trim a Coat Closet:
Driver
Miter saw
Nail gun or hammer
Reciprocating saw
Caulk gun
Steps for How to Trim a Coat Closet:
1. Use a stud finder to locate studs in the closet walls.
2. Cut three pieces of 1x5 pine to measured length using the miter saw.
3. Nail pine pieces together using a nail gun or hammer to assemble the shelf cleat.
4. Screw the two clothes-rod brackets to opposite ends of the cleat assembly using a driver.
5. Measure 5’4” off the floor and draw a straight line across all three sides using a level.
6. Dab construction adhesive with the caulk gun to the inside of the wall where the cleat will sit.
7. Line up the cleat to match the top of the level line.
8. Nail the cleat to the studs using a nail gun or hammer.
9. Cut the clothes rod to measured length using a reciprocating saw.
10. Measure across the top of the cleat to figure out the desired length for shelf.
11. Mark the measurement on 1x12 pine and cut it to length using the miter saw.
12. Place the pine shelf on top of the cleat and nail it to the cleat using a nail gun or hammer.
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How to Trim a Coat Closet | Ask This Old House
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Tommy always make things look easy...
Well this is his job lol
Use an inexpensive ($30) laser measure for inside measurements. You get an exact fit that won't shift side-to-side even a little. Changed my life.
When using your level to mark a line longer than the level always flip the level length ways, Its good practice in case there is discrepancies in the level itself.
+iShootBandits
I've never heard this. I've marked lines for this very thing several times in the houses I've lived in. It actually made me distrust my two foot level. But your tip makes perfect sense. Just like how you should flip a board back and forth when you're making repeated cuts off it. Thanks!
if your level is wrong, buy a new level.
Flip the level length ways? What do you mean?
Tommy, now you have to paint around the pole socket and cup. Also, why not use pre-primed wood?
Haven't seen that level line trick before. Worth the click just for that.
You're nailing straight into wood...but gluing to paint on drywall is going to help?
The best part is that Tommy says he's gonna measure up 5'4" and it's right at the top of his head. 😂😂😂
🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
I couldn't help but get a chuckle out of that!
I saw the slow close up on the Bostitch model number. Nice product placement
😂😂 shelf level..but MY walls aren't!! Thanks for video. Everybody posts but yours really is simple. Even this 62yr old woman will try! I have mobile home with no support between sheetrock, this is 1st video that tells to put screws at angle in corner! I am not wood smart, as you can tell 😂.
How do you do the upper shelf with only one stud?
Isn't putting the cleat together outside also making an assumption the closet is square?
protocultureBJJ putting the cleat together outside makes no difference. The cleat that goes on the back wall goes on first and if the walls aren’t square, the side cleats will bend in or out.
He used nails so he can bend or any way he likes. Which also makes the case to use screws instead of nails that have no holding power...
I have a similar project, only I am using shelf/rod brackets that go into the back wall instead of the sides like in the video. I don't have studs in good locations.
Would I be able to attach a trim to just the back wall (no sides), and screw the brackets into that?
I wish Tom would have included the measurements for mounting the rod brackets
I installed the brackets after the trim. First I used a hanger with a jacket to get the general location. There are usually 3 hole in the backets. The hole at the bottom is what I fastened first then took those measurements to that hole and to the bracket on the other side.
Who made that decision Tommy or the home owner to make it 5'4"
Big thumbs down on the construction adhesive! That's going to make it a nightmare if they or anyone else wants to remove that down thee road. (ask me how I know!) Nails/screws into the studs is plenty strong!
Since it's a closet, and you only need a little wood, buy cedar. It's not that much more.
If the span of the rod is longer, would you recommend using lag bolts, or a bigger nail, to fasten the trim pieces?
Personally, I'd use screws~
Yep, I agree with the other guy, I would use screws regardless.
great job.. i would use spruce and cheaper 3/4 mdf and paint it all
MDF is garbage for a job where weight is a factor because it just gives & strips like nobodies buisness
a little higher would be a nice option too
Using a sabre saw to cut the pole , can you say "rough" ?
he is using a fine tooth blade. Plus he put the cut end in the socket side, where it will not show, and the clean factory end of the pole in the "u" side.
Which gauge nails are you using?
How about on concrete walls let me know thanks
Not sure brad nails will hold for the long run not sure why he didn’t use finish screws for better grip.
He nailed through pine into studs. If they are long nails, it's not going anywhere for a very long time, but yes I'd personally fasten them with 3 inch screws
I use Brad nails to set everything up an go back an put 3in screw in each stud (on a short run)
what if the walls are out square and the shelf is tight at the back but only partially supported near the front. I would need to somehow cut the board ends on a different angle. how do I get it looking nice in an old house.
No word on hanging rod clearance from the shelf? How low and how deep in the closet is the rod situated?
I would dry fit the shelf in first, then get a large coat hanger and put a heavy coat that you would wear on the hanger and place it on the side wall under the shelf. Play around with it, make sure the shoulder of the coat doesn't go past the door trim and it's well in the closet. Then pretend to take the coat off the rod, how much clearance do you need to life the hanger hook on and off the rod without hitting the shelf. That's where you mount the rod hardware.
Great video
3:20 - smooth
Does it have to be pine or can it be MDF
It can be any kinda material you want it to be.
I'm using MDF on mine.
On 1:26 Tommy's left hand fingers were close to a nail. Dangerous. If a nail hits a hidden knot or the growth rings directs the nail toward the fingers, there could be an accident.
Good point. I saw someone get shot in the foot doing something similar. He was in a lot of pain.
Pussy
аралтан манджиев Tommy is a professional he knows haw to do all of nail guns
It happens...part of the job. Some things that DIYer's call dangerous we pro's just call it everyday work. You do it enough and you learn what you're capable of.
The Clusit?
My closet is 12 feet wide...best way to support the pole in the middle ? Thx !
Install a bracket to stop pole from moving or add a wall in the middle to help support weight
brianohbrian burns what is a gable please?
Add a bracket every 4 or 5 feet. For a 12 ' span, i would put two middle brackets.
nice, could you make a video on how to remove the shelf and rod ?
Wouldn't screws be a safer bet than nails?
either would work in this application, we're not talking about a lot of weight. screws are brittle, they can snap when under a lot of shear stress. Nails will bend with the weight.
I aslo do trimming but not like this, totally different the way we do it faster in my point
A bit frugal with the construction adhesive, lol.
Never use glue
Yeah, I didn't like the glue idea on top of sheet rock with weight bearing hardware on it. RIP!
You mean there’s no studs on the back wall that you can’t anchor the pine to
Tommy
Tom cant find the stud because he is the stud....In fact Tom's knock is so intimidating and stern, the stud behind the wall sounds hollow.....
why not just attach the pole holders to the walls using dry wall anchors? just asking
Not stubstantial enough. That clothes rod might hold 50 or 60 pounds of coats or other things, and needs to be driven into studs. Plus, the side pieces help support the shelf, which you couldn't do if you only used anchors.
I'm building a closet and trying to figure out whether to put shelves in first or put the door in first. I watched this video and the followup where they put the door in (ruclips.net/video/ZAkGt7xvDUg/видео.html). I can't figure out how the door trim fits around the cleat on the right side. Did they have to cut it? It seems like it would be easier to put the door in first just to make the cleat fit... what am I missing?
Pretty rough way to do it but it gets the job done.
No shims?
Sure, let's nail it. Because screws aren't invented yet.
I'll keep my hands close to where the nail could exit so I'm sure it's secure...
I would have used screws for sure!
I thought Roger would have cutout the drywall to the dimensions of the wood being used. This would have given the closet rod supports a flush look aligned the the drywall, rather than mounted over the drywall giving a proud and unsightly look. The shelf edges could have been set back Into a cutout of the drywall giving a much cleaner finish.
He is using Festool which is the best
Expensive doesnt always mean best. Theyre okay, not worth the money IMO
Really don't like that you assembled it outside. So easy to be just a little bit off.
I agree... Its just not necessary. Just put a piece in and fasten it... Why make the unit outside? Weird.
Not sure the glue will stick to the mud. The walls weren’t even sanded yet
Хороший канал
Level looked a little off
only 1,000
i don't know why he nailed the trim instead of screwing it to the closet. He wouldn't have needed the glue then
oh yes cause it would be so easy to hold that up and screw it to the wall with 3 in screws. painters also have to putty the nail holes, puttying a screw hole is probably difficult. also the glue on nails holds very well and nails have a much higher shear strength compared to screws.
I'm a Carpenter myself for 20 years now and I knowm y trade. In Germany
we use screws most of the time, nails are mostly outdated since over 35
years, u sed only to fix moldings or alike to furniture or walls, etc.
And good screws offer more strenght, even shear strenght than nails. Low
qualitiy nails, or the wrong nails could bend, or slip out under heavy
weight. Therefore the glue. But as I said, screw that stuff on and
problems are fixed. Saves time and material. I never understood why
americans seem to be allergic to screws and still hold on to nailing so
much.
nailing everything is just a lot faster, you have nail guns that hold 50 plus nails and can shoot many at one time, with screws you have to hold the piece up and screw it into the stud which most of the time is difficult and takes forever, production trim carpenters and framers would never use screws for everything. they're expensive and take forever to fasten with and as everyone knows, time is money.
Also, saying screws have better shear strength compared to nails just isn't true. drive a nail into something and hit it back and forth with a hammer and it will take a good 8 to 10 times to break it off. Most screws will only take 1-2 times of back and forth to snap.
It's true, nailing with a gun is definately faster and it's totally fine for trim and framing. Driving screws into wood isn't difficult at all if you know how to do it. I don't say nailing is crap per se, there's just a difference how we in Germany usually fasten stuff and how you in the US are doing it. My experience tells me that screwed connections just have a better strenght and hold to them.
You own an electric nail gun but no laser level
Who finished that drywall? I understand it's just a closet, but Jesus......
In many parts of the country, that's the looks they're after. Referred to around here as a "Sun Valley" finish...
What.. no closet jokes ?
O
This is the first video where I did not like Tommy's work. Very amateurish.
Charles Cho shush
I agree Charles Cho.. I'm a contractor and have learned many new techniques over the years I've watched TOH. However on this video, he clearly used either 16 ga. or 18 ga. finish nails, and only a few at that, for a shelf and coat rack could potentially hold a considerable amount of weight.
Granted, it's not a safety issue where this would likely hurt someone, but screws into the studs would make this much stronger. And we're not talking an increase in cost.
Your average homeowner who wants to do this doesn't own a cordless nailer or even a pneumatic nailer. But I bet they have a screw gun or drill.
I digress.... one of the seldom occasions I disapprove to Tommy's work.
Robert Erickson You forget the side rails are nailed into the back rail and screws wouldn't help any better in this situation .Most of the weight on the shelf will be on that back rail as a contractor you should know this
In my first work I always used Woodglut plans.
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