Chris nailed this when you were sat in the cab. The selector needs adjusting that`s why the key gets stuck and the car is immobilised, the faults you are reading are a symptom of the immobilisation not the route cause. Chris even mentioned the little arm on the gearbox where the cable comes through its a common fail point on these the bearing wears part No lr012704.
I agree. Even the smallest problem on these very complicated vehicles can result in a breakdown. I think Chris is on the right track. These vehicles look good but I wouldn't touch one with a barge pole!
@@allandavies9488 - have to say that's what I was thinking as I was watching. Any time I've had grief from a complex car, I wished it was nice and simple.
Agree completely, I'm going with the Automatic transmission control module (ACTM) fault that was thrown up multiple times which in effect is cutting the fuel via the immobiliser hence not starting.
Agree, I think solving that issue will unlock the immobilisation that’s connected to the fuel pressure being low. Also, not sure that testing the fuel pressure rail will give any further direction if it’s part of the immobilisation system?
I think you worry too much about the videos getting long Rob, I'm sure everybody really enjoys watching you and Chris working realtime with the diagnostic tester and discussing what might be wrong. Fantastic content as always though chaps!
It’s going to be with the gearbox not recognising that it’s in park it’s Notorious problem, it’s going to be the switch underneath the console, I used to work for Jaguar and Land Rover and they were common issues
It’s definitely the gearbox malfunction it’s not allowing the car to start at all, the gearbox selector switch, the car thinks it’s in D (Drive) when the car is stationary but really it’s in P (park) good luck rob and Chris hope this information helps out in any way
@@jaym1362 I did my apprenticeship at an Austin rover garage in the 1980s and although this car is later I don't think the engine would turn over unless it was in park or possibly neutral.
It is possible to raise suspension. Hold the LR logo on the key and press suspension up button. It should bong. Then turn hazards on. Get out. Shut doors fully. Hold LR logo on key and press and hold lock or unlock. You should hear compressor fire up and clicks.
Guys - this is an amazing coincidence for me. I bought a 2009 RR sport recently. It ran fine until 2 days ago when it wouldn’t start. Same fuel rail pressure fault as you are getting but no other electrics issues. I am scratching my head as it is getting pressure readings to the rail. Priming it 3 times on the key will get it to start and run for 5 seconds before cutting out. I am assuming a fuel pressure sensor problem but I can now watch you two professionals do some troubleshooting.
@@recs5351 thanks - the high pressure pump gets it up to 2000+ psi but it looks like the fuel flow can’t keep up. I am hoping it is a clogged fuel filter or maybe the pick-up gauze in the tank. Hopefully Rob and Chris find a solution I can copy
I reckon Chris is right and it’s a fuel issue. Had a similar problem years ago and it was the fuel filter being blocked. Those alloy wheels will definitely need changing they are nasty.
Oh no a cliff hanger! It’s great to have Chris explaining more on video, he is so interesting and logical. His knowledge is of the chart. Great video Rob, I wish you both a great weekend.
I saw the exact same symptoms a long time ago on a Rover Sterling. I realise the cars have nothing in common at all but after confounding numerous mechanics the problem turned out to be the gear selector. Somehow it had got slightly misaligned and wasn’t in the position indicated by the auto lever. Thus the car wouldn’t start and you couldn’t remove the key. It was a simple fix but fiendish to identify.
Have you checked the gearbox linkage ? These are known to knacker not select gear or park correctly. If not in park correctly the key won’t come out. That’s throws up faults and stops the engine from starting. I had one go on my Discovery 3 and it’s a simple fix.
Good morning Rob and Chris. Looking forward to seeing this one...as an electrician of nearly 40 years I love a bit of fault finding and can't wait to see what this turns out to be. I'm sure Chris will work methodically through the "issues" good luck with it and can't to hear Rob does his "YES IT'S RUNNING"
Great video lads.👍 Once you get her up and running, whatever you do, don't let Rob's brother drive her. 🤣 (the people that have been subscribed for a while will understand this)
Easiest way to prove it's fuel related is to spray brake cleaner into the inlet while the other is turning it over if it fires up you'll know fuel isn't present under normal conditions. A diesel leak of test can still prove useful even tho it doesn't start, you'd be able to see really excessive leak off that could be bringing the rail pressure down enough to prevent it from starting. If that is the case unplugging that injector may help it to fire up. Maybe worth removing the fuel filter and some of the fuel in the housing placing into a clear thick bag and running a magnet around it to see if any metal is present :)
I don’t want to disagree with Chris. However with the key keep jamming in the ignition I’m guessing it’s something to do with the gear selector not locating correctly. Those wheels do not belong on that car they are shocking. Have a good weekend lads 👍
Basics, check all earths. Make sure the one to the engine and gearbox is clean. Check the alarm is not shutting off the fuel pump by putting a tester on the power to the pump . Then of you get the alarm and keys sorted, check compression. And keep going down the fault finder checklist
Chris: The gearbox inhibitor, prevents the starter motor turning. The key can’t be removed unless the gearbox is in Park. But clearly seams to be a fault there.
Agreed. The immobiliser stops the starter too, as well as the gearbox switch. I'm with the fuel pressure theory, and there's clearly been a Starbucks dropped over that centre console!!
@@deanstephens6131 Someone asked me as an electronics engineer to look at centre dash control panel from some Volvo. The cup holders were above it and it was clear something sugary and acidic had been spilt on it. Virtually all the dozens of vias on the lower half of the PCB had been corroded out so I gave it back unfixed.
Hello Rob common faults with the gear shift pivot seizing. Water ingress in TCM module. Blocked fuel filter. High pressure fuel pump not producing enough pressure. Gear shift module with in the cab.
Hi Chris and Rob ,I had a similar problem on a Transit , the chain had just been replaced and it wouldn’t start , it tried sometimes like the RRover no faults showed on a scan , I checked to see if the timing was ok , I pinned the Crankshaft and the cams were half a pin out , it was enough to upset the crank and camshaft position sensors , it could be worth a check ,
The fuel pressure loss is a result of the problem not the problem itself. By all means check it however you could see on the scanner the pressure rose, it tried to fire and then it dropped by 75% to residual pressure. The other clue was where the key could not be removed and then could be as the indicator light on the dash changed after moving the lever. Its easy to follow a wrong path when diagnosing but Chris was right on point early on looking at the gear selector. I would lay money the problem is some sensor or wiring under the console or on the gearbox itself. It was clearly running well but then stopped running well quickly and in to Limp Mode. That is electrical IMHO. I think you lads have landed on your feet again.
Hiya mate 😃 It needs around 2000psi before it will switch the injectors which is why it fired briefly. Not sure why it fires and then drops the pressure. Maybe fuel rail pressure regulator? Agreed though, if it was running fine then suddenly stopped, it's far more likely to be an electrical fault (Sensor) rather than mechanical
@@classicminiworkshop Oi Oi mate. I knew they were high pressure common rail systems but didn't know the number. As you say it could be the regulator letting go but I still go for a sensor or electrical issue because they said it dropped into limp mode. I think the trapped key is the big clue. Wouldn't want to do this one on the side of the road though! On high pressure systems the MAN trucks I worked on had the first diesel common rail systems and worked at 1600 BAR. Yes BAR! Cracking off an injector is no longer a good idea!
You guys are incredible. We love watching you diagnosing the problems. One problem you thought might have been caused by a drink getting spilt. I have another thing which may have caused that issue as it happened to one if my previous cars. I took it for the only time I ever had an inside valet. The guy doing it obviously wasn't as careful as they advertised as he sprayed something into the controls of my cd/radio and once it dried it gummed up the whole thing. It cost me £70 to get it fixed! The guys were kind enough to explain what had caused it and how. They had used the wrong cleaner permanently taking off the shine and rather than own up and say something they sprayed it with some other stuff which made it glossy again and that's what glued up the controls. Lesson learnt. I've never had my car valeted again. I do it myself as best I can or a family member does it.
The key getting stuck in the ignition is a good starting point for sure. Not sure what it's called on the the RR Sport but on a D2 the XYZ switch which tells the ECU where the gear selector is are notorious for failing or going out of adjustment. This type of "mystery problem" is what keeps me coming back to this channel. Looking forward to seeing this get sorted. Have a great weekend gents!
Brilliant purchase guys and really looking forward to the next installment. I agree with Chris that it's fuel pressure related, but would guess that the origin is the gear selector position sensor, which has either slipped position, or (as mentioned by Rob) got gunked up with some fizzy pop or Coffee! Best of luck and keep 'em comin' JCHK
So on my range rover sport I had a very similar problem. There was an ecu under windscreen where water had got to it. Connections were cleaned up and solved the issue. Also the brake switch under brake pedal can cause all sorts of strange faults (£15 part). You never know.
Brake pedal switch is a common failure (shud always carry a spare!!) but it results in a no crank symptom. I agree about the bcu filling with water - windscreen seals failing are also common.
A combination of issues perhaps. I'm not a mechanic. When my 1996 Volvo 940 LPT petrol auto wouldn't start after a short drive, turned out my in tank fuel pump had died at 201,000miles. Gave housing a tap with stick and hammer and fired straight into life. Replaced in tank pump for another Bosch pump and 3 hours later back on the road. Replaced crank sensor and ignition module and fuel pump relay, after as preventative maintenance. Old kept as spares. Be interesting to see the RR outcome/fix. James.
Had an 08 TDV8 Range Rover and the gear stick did exactly the same thing with the key ! Refused to start sometimes, engine went over lovely but I had to smack the gear stick back and forth to release the inhibitor on P/N to allow the car to start.
Hi Chris / Rob ... it sounds like the In Tank fuel pump has shit a brick .. the main HP fuel pump will try and drag fuel through but will not be able to produce approx 10/14 thousand PSI to fire the injectors .. if it were the belts then you should be having Crank and camshaft positioning sensor flagging up .. I'd crack the fuel inlet to HP pump and check In tank pump is Pumping fuel up to it ... with the ignition on and gear selector in park ... Keep up teh good work .. Andy
Possible Pressure control valve on the high pressure fuel pump. Watch the HPFP video on the LR Time channel as they had they same issue but on a Discovery 2.7
I bought a 2011 full history I bought it with 106000 miles purely as wanted to know and had dealership history the cam belt was done I loved it had everything 3.0 d hse however gbox faults 1200 for a gearbox and full engine service among other bits break sensors and pads wheel nuts replaced. It had a intermittent fault with gearbox from park to reverse it was a money pit ! Lovely looking car and very comfortable put you need your fingers crossed every time you drive them mine was keyless one it had to go best decision I ever made. Having bought it from a garage fsh main dealer there’s only so much money you can waste. But mine wasn’t 1500 so good luck guys
Agreed… fuel. Rob, the fault finding discussion was good. I could sense tension due to time length but it was interesting. Gives us more clues to guess.
That’s the low pressure bleed valve from the LP tank pump which feeds the HPFP Just turn ignition on and press that tyre looking valve and fuel should come out. If no fuel is coming out the fuel tank pump might have failed or the fuel filter is blocked. Good luck. I have a LR3 TDV6 “07. 395,000 kms. Best car ever. PS check the brake light bulbs (blown) and the brake pedal switch as they affect and show up as a transmission fault.
"assume nothing and question everything" - wise words from Chris. I'm voting fuel pressure sensor issue, without making any assumptions of course 🙂Really interesting video thanks!
Had an issue years back with a 2007 sport , wife ran low on fuel and it managed to air lock , spun over like yours but just wouldn't fire ..... after filling it with fuel still no start , we got it to fire by pressing in on that valve where you putting the diesel pressure gauge whilst cranking it .... might help might not ..... what I have learnt after owning range rover sports is they can be finicky to say the least ! Cheers..... love the chanel Al 🇮🇪
Going to be an interesting one!!! Think the gearbox selector mech needs adjusting but key cause is as you have said fuel. I wonder if the main fuel filter has ever been changed and this is restricting the high pressure pump? Could also be a high pressure pump issue which is an “interesting” job to change. Good luck lads 👍🏻👍🏻
Just started watching the video, I have to thank you for teaming up with CarVertical and saving me 10% on both checks on my 2004 Jaguar XJ6 (unrecorded, expensive cats still attached) about to go through Copart Whitburn and my new Focus ST Estate I've just bought. Keep up the great content.
Love the forensics, I'm persuaded towards the immobiliser sensor on the gearbox as first point of call, as I would expect it to be easy to check, but I'm no expert. Looking forward to the progress report as it unfurls. Time to get those tool tester manufacturers to supply freebies for you and Chris, it would be good advertising for them I think.
Whenever one of these turned up on the back of a recovery truck the workshop suddenly became completely empty of staff. On most occasionswe farmed them straight out to LR. Not that they could fix them either! This one sounds fairly straightforward, fuel delivery issues If the transmission is reporting that its in gear it won't turn over. Good luck!
Check the wiring harness plug in front right wheel arch behind rear arch plastic. Very common for water ingress and sending the electrical system into melt down. You have various results from your code readings, it's not consistent, I would say wiring/plug with inconsistent contacts
What you have to do, is wiggle the Blue wire, then wiggle the Red wire, then wiggle the Blue wire again, then wait for Chris's new tool to turn up. Hope this important technical tip helps lads.
I recon there is a problem with the gearbox park sensor. The car thinks its in gear and trying to be started with is throwing up the fuel problem side of things. Or maybe both are a problem. Either way i recon Chris will fix it and Rob will tell us all about it. Keep up the great work guys!
Love your videos no matter how long they are.The longer the better if you ask me.Great project guys,but those alloys??? They deffo need to go eh.Look forward to the next instalment where we’ll hopefully see it start and hear one of Robs famous “Yes” ring out as it fires up into life.
Hi from durham guys👋👍 fuel system are crap these day I have had a 11 plate golf gt tdi and had fuel pressure high related codes from cranking to firing and running to cutting out (went right down garden path with it and parts cannon) checked wiring had new rail sensorsx2 pump sensor new rail clean in tank screen from pump and I was out and ran out of diesal from half tank thats how much I drove it getting data and testing for limp mode but since put fresh diesal in no problem 🤔 I was pissed of but sorted job with 20 shot derv 😂 I could of done myself in last week good luck and yeah thats a cheapie guys good luck 👍 thanks for your time and be safe see you soon guys👍👋
May just be a bad earth somewhere, if an earth strap has not been put back after working on it, that may explain the huge list of faults the car has accumulated as well as the fuel rail range performance issue, definitely worth checking the rail pressure and injection quantity though
Hi Rob and Chris hope both you and your family's are fit and well I think because the engine is spinning over quickly it could be a valve timing problem Hope it's not Keep up the fantastic educational videos 👍
Another mystery! I love these (as long as I don't have to solve them). Good luck with tracking down the problem. Thanks again for another great video Rob and Chris. Looking forward to the next one already!
Hi Chris and Rob, just a thought what if the chips in the keys are faulty (the dog has been chewing on 'em) the engine will crank but won't fire because the ecu doesn't recognise the key, just my thoughts hope they are of use. Keep on bringing the challenges we all find them fascinating.
Hi guys. I have a discovery three, with the same engine in it. Your range Rover sport sounds like it is spinning over at the correct speed, I think you can probably eliminate low compression. As a previous person has mentioned if the gear selector was at fault it would inhibit the engine turning over at all. Key remove all is probably a separate issue. You state that the vehicle has had a new fuel pump belt. If I had to guess, I think that would probably be the first port of call. If it has not been tension properly it may have come off. You may find it in the under tray. Looking forward to the resolution of this. Another great video Rob. PS what version of top Don do you have? I have recently purchased the airdiag500. Not sure it goes into enough of the systems.
Just another thought, for better access underneath, have you thought about hotwiring The air suspension relay. It should raise the car for better access whether the engine is running or not. Keep up the good work. Relays under the Bonnet.
Love your videos rob. Always happy to help out if you need a car or van picked up.
YIANNI
YC AUTOTECH SOLUTIONS LTD
Chris nailed this when you were sat in the cab. The selector needs adjusting that`s why the key gets stuck and the car is immobilised, the faults you are reading are a symptom of the immobilisation not the route cause. Chris even mentioned the little arm on the gearbox where the cable comes through its a common fail point on these the bearing wears part No lr012704.
I agree. Even the smallest problem on these very complicated vehicles can result in a breakdown. I think Chris is on the right track. These vehicles look good but I wouldn't touch one with a barge pole!
You sound convincing. I'm with you 😊
@@allandavies9488 - have to say that's what I was thinking as I was watching. Any time I've had grief from a complex car, I wished it was nice and simple.
Agree completely, I'm going with the Automatic transmission control module (ACTM) fault that was thrown up multiple times which in effect is cutting the fuel via the immobiliser hence not starting.
Agree, I think solving that issue will unlock the immobilisation that’s connected to the fuel pressure being low. Also, not sure that testing the fuel pressure rail will give any further direction if it’s part of the immobilisation system?
I think you worry too much about the videos getting long Rob, I'm sure everybody really enjoys watching you and Chris working realtime with the diagnostic tester and discussing what might be wrong. Fantastic content as always though chaps!
I mean time for us bud 👍
@@ally1534 don’t talk wet
@@ally1534 Alastair (the bellend) beard
It’s going to be with the gearbox not recognising that it’s in park it’s Notorious problem, it’s going to be the switch underneath the console, I used to work for Jaguar and Land Rover and they were common issues
Yep thats a well know issue.
If the ECU didn't recognise that the gearbox was in park then it wouldn't crank over would it?
Very true but didn’t these car also have a problem with the fuel thing that’s in the boot as well? Or was that just the p38 range rovers?
It’s definitely the gearbox malfunction it’s not allowing the car to start at all, the gearbox selector switch, the car thinks it’s in D (Drive) when the car is stationary but really it’s in P (park) good luck rob and Chris hope this information helps out in any way
@@jaym1362 I did my apprenticeship at an Austin rover garage in the 1980s and although this car is later I don't think the engine would turn over unless it was in park or possibly neutral.
It is possible to raise suspension. Hold the LR logo on the key and press suspension up button. It should bong. Then turn hazards on. Get out. Shut doors fully. Hold LR logo on key and press and hold lock or unlock. You should hear compressor fire up and clicks.
Guys - this is an amazing coincidence for me. I bought a 2009 RR sport recently. It ran fine until 2 days ago when it wouldn’t start. Same fuel rail pressure fault as you are getting but no other electrics issues. I am scratching my head as it is getting pressure readings to the rail. Priming it 3 times on the key will get it to start and run for 5 seconds before cutting out. I am assuming a fuel pressure sensor problem but I can now watch you two professionals do some troubleshooting.
Rob will give you £1500 for it keeps there’s company 😂 on a serious note hope u get it sorted
Sounds like your lifter pump isn't able to maintain pressure
@@recs5351 thanks - the high pressure pump gets it up to 2000+ psi but it looks like the fuel flow can’t keep up. I am hoping it is a clogged fuel filter or maybe the pick-up gauze in the tank. Hopefully Rob and Chris find a solution I can copy
I reckon Chris is right and it’s a fuel issue. Had a similar problem years ago and it was the fuel filter being blocked. Those alloy wheels will definitely need changing they are nasty.
Oh no a cliff hanger! It’s great to have Chris explaining more on video, he is so interesting and logical. His knowledge is of the chart. Great video Rob, I wish you both a great weekend.
I reckon the problem is the badges on the front and rear... 😉
I saw the exact same symptoms a long time ago on a Rover Sterling. I realise the cars have nothing in common at all but after confounding numerous mechanics the problem turned out to be the gear selector. Somehow it had got slightly misaligned and wasn’t in the position indicated by the auto lever. Thus the car wouldn’t start and you couldn’t remove the key. It was a simple fix but fiendish to identify.
Have you checked the gearbox linkage ? These are known to knacker not select gear or park correctly. If not in park correctly the key won’t come out. That’s throws up faults and stops the engine from starting. I had one go on my Discovery 3 and it’s a simple fix.
Exactly same with disco 3. this left me stumped for a while but was so simple to fix. 100% selector. key, no start and gearbox fault says it all
Good morning Rob and Chris. Looking forward to seeing this one...as an electrician of nearly 40 years I love a bit of fault finding and can't wait to see what this turns out to be. I'm sure Chris will work methodically through the "issues" good luck with it and can't to hear Rob does his "YES IT'S RUNNING"
Great video lads.👍
Once you get her up and running, whatever you do, don't let Rob's brother drive her. 🤣 (the people that have been subscribed for a while will understand this)
😂😂
😜 yeah it’s like watching Matt paint dry .
Agree with Chris, a very high chance of a fuel issue preventing it from firing.
Absolutely 🤗
Easiest way to prove it's fuel related is to spray brake cleaner into the inlet while the other is turning it over if it fires up you'll know fuel isn't present under normal conditions. A diesel leak of test can still prove useful even tho it doesn't start, you'd be able to see really excessive leak off that could be bringing the rail pressure down enough to prevent it from starting. If that is the case unplugging that injector may help it to fire up. Maybe worth removing the fuel filter and some of the fuel in the housing placing into a clear thick bag and running a magnet around it to see if any metal is present :)
I don’t want to disagree with Chris. However with the key keep jamming in the ignition I’m guessing it’s something to do with the gear selector not locating correctly. Those wheels do not belong on that car they are shocking. Have a good weekend lads 👍
Basics, check all earths. Make sure the one to the engine and gearbox is clean. Check the alarm is not shutting off the fuel pump by putting a tester on the power to the pump .
Then of you get the alarm and keys sorted, check compression.
And keep going down the fault finder checklist
Chris: The gearbox inhibitor, prevents the starter motor turning. The key can’t be removed unless the gearbox is in Park. But clearly seams to be a fault there.
Agreed. The immobiliser stops the starter too, as well as the gearbox switch. I'm with the fuel pressure theory, and there's clearly been a Starbucks dropped over that centre console!!
the classic latte fault ;)
@@deanstephens6131 No way man it’s deffo a Costa coffee .
@@elwittinio2865 looks like a ‘Costa fortune’ fault to me definitely for the previous owner!😂
@@deanstephens6131 Someone asked me as an electronics engineer to look at centre dash control panel from some Volvo. The cup holders were above it and it was clear something sugary and acidic had been spilt on it. Virtually all the dozens of vias on the lower half of the PCB had been corroded out so I gave it back unfixed.
Hello Rob common faults with the gear shift pivot seizing. Water ingress in TCM module. Blocked fuel filter. High pressure fuel pump not producing enough pressure. Gear shift module with in the cab.
There is a ball valve in the end of the rail! The spring goes weak, and doesn’t maintain full pressure under cranking.
Hi Chris and Rob ,I had a similar problem on a Transit , the chain had just been replaced and it wouldn’t start , it tried sometimes like the RRover no faults showed on a scan , I checked to see if the timing was ok , I pinned the Crankshaft and the cams were half a pin out , it was enough to upset the crank and camshaft position sensors , it could be worth a check ,
The fuel pressure loss is a result of the problem not the problem itself. By all means check it however you could see on the scanner the pressure rose, it tried to fire and then it dropped by 75% to residual pressure.
The other clue was where the key could not be removed and then could be as the indicator light on the dash changed after moving the lever.
Its easy to follow a wrong path when diagnosing but Chris was right on point early on looking at the gear selector. I would lay money the problem is some sensor or wiring under the console or on the gearbox itself. It was clearly running well but then stopped running well quickly and in to Limp Mode. That is electrical IMHO.
I think you lads have landed on your feet again.
Hiya mate 😃 It needs around 2000psi before it will switch the injectors which is why it fired briefly. Not sure why it fires and then drops the pressure. Maybe fuel rail pressure regulator? Agreed though, if it was running fine then suddenly stopped, it's far more likely to be an electrical fault (Sensor) rather than mechanical
@@classicminiworkshop Oi Oi mate. I knew they were high pressure common rail systems but didn't know the number. As you say it could be the regulator letting go but I still go for a sensor or electrical issue because they said it dropped into limp mode. I think the trapped key is the big clue.
Wouldn't want to do this one on the side of the road though!
On high pressure systems the MAN trucks I worked on had the first diesel common rail systems and worked at 1600 BAR. Yes BAR! Cracking off an injector is no longer a good idea!
You guys are incredible. We love watching you diagnosing the problems. One problem you thought might have been caused by a drink getting spilt. I have another thing which may have caused that issue as it happened to one if my previous cars. I took it for the only time I ever had an inside valet. The guy doing it obviously wasn't as careful as they advertised as he sprayed something into the controls of my cd/radio and once it dried it gummed up the whole thing. It cost me £70 to get it fixed! The guys were kind enough to explain what had caused it and how. They had used the wrong cleaner permanently taking off the shine and rather than own up and say something they sprayed it with some other stuff which made it glossy again and that's what glued up the controls. Lesson learnt. I've never had my car valeted again. I do it myself as best I can or a family member does it.
This has been one of the best videos in a while guys. I’d favour the gearbox modules - fairly common I believe. Great seeing Chris’s Monday work too!
I struggle to switch off from work your videos help as I enjoy watching and learning
Completely agree on the wheels Rob. Definitely not my cup of tea. Otherwise you can't go wrong for £1500
The key getting stuck in the ignition is a good starting point for sure. Not sure what it's called on the the RR Sport but on a D2 the XYZ switch which tells the ECU where the gear selector is are notorious for failing or going out of adjustment. This type of "mystery problem" is what keeps me coming back to this channel. Looking forward to seeing this get sorted. Have a great weekend gents!
Brilliant purchase guys and really looking forward to the next installment.
I agree with Chris that it's fuel pressure related, but would guess that the origin is the gear selector position sensor, which has either slipped position, or (as mentioned by Rob) got gunked up with some fizzy pop or Coffee!
Best of luck and keep 'em comin'
JCHK
Rob / Chris this has got to have been one of your best videos I have watched and let me tell ya I have watched them all !!
Great work boys !! Love it
Ive been watching since that video of the engine swap. you do great work. nice to see 2 honest guys taking pride in their work.
If you need to find the fuel filter, it is located right underneath on the inside of the gearbox cross member on the diverside in the corner there
The wheels are Chav spec so have to go :). I think it is the flux capacitor.
Add some heavily tinted windows, and LED bulbs and your sorted...
see chris at the start standing back looking at it ,wheels turning,i could see myself in this
So on my range rover sport I had a very similar problem. There was an ecu under windscreen where water had got to it. Connections were cleaned up and solved the issue. Also the brake switch under brake pedal can cause all sorts of strange faults (£15 part). You never know.
Brake pedal switch is a common failure (shud always carry a spare!!) but it results in a no crank symptom. I agree about the bcu filling with water - windscreen seals failing are also common.
A combination of issues perhaps. I'm not a mechanic. When my 1996 Volvo 940 LPT petrol auto wouldn't start after a short drive, turned out my in tank fuel pump had died at 201,000miles. Gave housing a tap with stick and hammer and fired straight into life. Replaced in tank pump for another Bosch pump and 3 hours later back on the road. Replaced crank sensor and ignition module and fuel pump relay, after as preventative maintenance. Old kept as spares. Be interesting to see the RR outcome/fix. James.
It’s straight for the age isn’t it, I agree with you about the wheels!
Could fuel starvation be immobiliser related because of those mangled key fobs?
Thanks ,👍
Had an 08 TDV8 Range Rover and the gear stick did exactly the same thing with the key ! Refused to start sometimes, engine went over lovely but I had to smack the gear stick back and forth to release the inhibitor on P/N to allow the car to start.
Hi Chris / Rob ... it sounds like the In Tank fuel pump has shit a brick .. the main HP fuel pump will try and drag fuel through but will not be able to produce approx 10/14 thousand PSI to fire the injectors .. if it were the belts then you should be having Crank and camshaft positioning sensor flagging up .. I'd crack the fuel inlet to HP pump and check In tank pump is Pumping fuel up to it ... with the ignition on and gear selector in park ... Keep up teh good work .. Andy
Possible Pressure control valve on the high pressure fuel pump. Watch the HPFP video on the LR Time channel as they had they same issue but on a Discovery 2.7
I agree with Rob, those wheels are ghastly. Looking forward to seeing you both get this one fixed.
Disagree with you Carl, the bullet 5 spoke alloys were class. A lot of the alloys available these days are basic.
I bought a 2011 full history I bought it with 106000 miles purely as wanted to know and had dealership history the cam belt was done I loved it had everything 3.0 d hse however gbox faults 1200 for a gearbox and full engine service among other bits break sensors and pads wheel nuts replaced. It had a intermittent fault with gearbox from park to reverse it was a money pit ! Lovely looking car and very comfortable put you need your fingers crossed every time you drive them mine was keyless one it had to go best decision I ever made. Having bought it from a garage fsh main dealer there’s only so much money you can waste. But mine wasn’t 1500 so good luck guys
Agreed… fuel. Rob, the fault finding discussion was good. I could sense tension due to time length but it was interesting. Gives us more clues to guess.
That’s the low pressure bleed valve from the LP tank pump which feeds the HPFP Just turn ignition on and press that tyre looking valve and fuel should come out. If no fuel is coming out the fuel tank pump might have failed or the fuel filter is blocked. Good luck. I have a LR3 TDV6 “07. 395,000 kms. Best car ever. PS check the brake light bulbs (blown) and the brake pedal switch as they affect and show up as a transmission fault.
Being a lift engineer by trade I always say you can't beat a bit of fault finding 😀👍 looking forward to watching the next episode guys...
bet your career has had it's ups and downs.....sorry..i couldn't help it...
I have a vision of seeing rob and chris pulling up to the club with still dre playing with the blacked out windows rolled down with sunglasses on 😎😎😎😎
Sell as fast as possible. They are Pandora boxes. 👍
I have to agree
Indeed, I’d just weigh it in 🤣
BMW, AUDI, VW, FORD, VAUXHALL, RENAULT, HYUNDAI, GM, 🤔, Infact all modern cars are Pandora Boxes 😎🤣🤣🇬🇧
Working for Land rover I believe there is a fuel pressure sensor at the end of the fuel rail and these are know for the intake fuel pumps to play up.
"assume nothing and question everything" - wise words from Chris. I'm voting fuel pressure sensor issue, without making any assumptions of course 🙂Really interesting video thanks!
Had an issue years back with a 2007 sport , wife ran low on fuel and it managed to air lock , spun over like yours but just wouldn't fire ..... after filling it with fuel still no start , we got it to fire by pressing in on that valve where you putting the diesel pressure gauge whilst cranking it .... might help might not ..... what I have learnt after owning range rover sports is they can be finicky to say the least !
Cheers..... love the chanel Al 🇮🇪
Going to be an interesting one!!! Think the gearbox selector mech needs adjusting but key cause is as you have said fuel. I wonder if the main fuel filter has ever been changed and this is restricting the high pressure pump? Could also be a high pressure pump issue which is an “interesting” job to change. Good luck lads 👍🏻👍🏻
Knowing Chris, it's probably already diagnosed and fixed!! Always a great adventure with you guys whatever you repair. As always thumbs up guys!!
Just started watching the video, I have to thank you for teaming up with CarVertical and saving me 10% on both checks on my 2004 Jaguar XJ6 (unrecorded, expensive cats still attached) about to go through Copart Whitburn and my new Focus ST Estate I've just bought. Keep up the great content.
Love the forensics, I'm persuaded towards the immobiliser sensor on the gearbox as first point of call, as I would expect it to be easy to check, but I'm no expert. Looking forward to the progress report as it unfurls. Time to get those tool tester manufacturers to supply freebies for you and Chris, it would be good advertising for them I think.
I agree about the inhibitor switch, looks like everything is pointing towards that.
I'm going with Chris - he's the expert ! Interesting one. Good luck
Great video there’s a control module by the battery that gets water in causing corrosion in the pins might worth checking
Whenever one of these turned up on the back of a recovery truck the workshop suddenly became completely empty of staff.
On most occasionswe farmed them straight out to LR. Not that they could fix them either!
This one sounds fairly straightforward, fuel delivery issues
If the transmission is reporting that its in gear it won't turn over. Good luck!
main dealers are useless these days,better off finding an independent specialist, much cheaper and if they can't fix it they know someone who can
Let's get involved! Cheers from Australia.
Loving you salvage rebuilds in the evening
Lol, I think I have watched a hundred "I bought the cheapest Range Rover" RUclips videos. Never get bored with them!
Hi Rob and Chris I think it could be the cambelt your the fuel pump thanks again for a great video take care both 🙂👍
Takes me back to first discovering salvage rebuilds uk with the Range Rover Sport. I love them!
The car is refusing to budge anywhere because it doesn’t want to be seen out with those wheels!
Check the wiring harness plug in front right wheel arch behind rear arch plastic. Very common for water ingress and sending the electrical system into melt down. You have various results from your code readings, it's not consistent, I would say wiring/plug with inconsistent contacts
What you have to do, is wiggle the Blue wire, then wiggle the Red wire, then wiggle the Blue wire again, then wait for Chris's new tool to turn up. Hope this important technical tip helps lads.
I recon there is a problem with the gearbox park sensor. The car thinks its in gear and trying to be started with is throwing up the fuel problem side of things. Or maybe both are a problem. Either way i recon Chris will fix it and Rob will tell us all about it. Keep up the great work guys!
Hi guys loving all the content keep up the good work shows how good you are when you can make videos of the work you do
Love your videos no matter how long they are.The longer the better if you ask me.Great project guys,but those alloys??? They deffo need to go eh.Look forward to the next instalment where we’ll hopefully see it start and hear one of Robs famous “Yes” ring out as it fires up into life.
Good luck with it guys 👍
Knowing its a R/R it could have a multitude faults! You'll get it sorted 👌 enjoy your weekend boys!!
Hi from durham guys👋👍 fuel system are crap these day I have had a 11 plate golf gt tdi and had fuel pressure high related codes from cranking to firing and running to cutting out (went right down garden path with it and parts cannon) checked wiring had new rail sensorsx2 pump sensor new rail clean in tank screen from pump and I was out and ran out of diesal from half tank thats how much I drove it getting data and testing for limp mode but since put fresh diesal in no problem 🤔 I was pissed of but sorted job with 20 shot derv 😂 I could of done myself in last week good luck and yeah thats a cheapie guys good luck 👍 thanks for your time and be safe see you soon guys👍👋
May just be a bad earth somewhere, if an earth strap has not been put back after working on it, that may explain the huge list of faults the car has accumulated as well as the fuel rail range performance issue, definitely worth checking the rail pressure and injection quantity though
Most of the faults wiped id say they were caused by the low battery.
If car goes below 9v during cranking it causes all sorts of issues.
The very first video I watched of yours was the Range Rover cab removal nice to see another Range Rover on the channel
Same here!
Hi Rob and Chris hope both you and your family's are fit and well
I think because the engine is spinning over quickly it could be a valve timing problem
Hope it's not
Keep up the fantastic educational videos 👍
When I saw the thumbnail on this, I thought it could possibly be a quick flip for you guys, 🤞 it will come back to life, can't wait for pt2 😃
I might be on my own here,but I quite like those wheels 👍
The fuel filter is often missed on services, it an easy replacement and may resolve the starting issue. It happens on the 2.7d/3.0d Jags of this era.
Love these motors but afraid they cost to much to repair,sure you lads will turn it around 👍👍👍
Another mystery! I love these (as long as I don't have to solve them). Good luck with tracking down the problem. Thanks again for another great video Rob and Chris. Looking forward to the next one already!
It's been a Range Rover Sport too long Rob
😂😂😂😂😂😂
🤦🏻♂️😂😂
Really looking forward to this series. The first Range Rover sport series was what got my into this channel
Shame about the alloys though
have you tried easy start to see if it fires at all
Yep give it a sniff see if she fires.. 👍
The cab off range rover episodes were the first videos I watched of you guys.
I thought Matt Armstrong had the cheapest Range Rover in the U.K. 😀
Good video for fault diagnosis. Some cliffhanger !
Fascinating. Can't wait for the next installment. Can't predict this fault .
Hi Chris and Rob, just a thought what if the chips in the keys are faulty (the dog has been chewing on 'em) the engine will crank but won't fire because the ecu doesn't recognise the key, just my thoughts hope they are of use. Keep on bringing the challenges we all find them fascinating.
Hazard warning switch are always worn on those Rob 😉
Hi guys.
I have a discovery three, with the same engine in it. Your range Rover sport sounds like it is spinning over at the correct speed, I think you can probably eliminate low compression. As a previous person has mentioned if the gear selector was at fault it would inhibit the engine turning over at all. Key remove all is probably a separate issue. You state that the vehicle has had a new fuel pump belt. If I had to guess, I think that would probably be the first port of call. If it has not been tension properly it may have come off. You may find it in the under tray. Looking forward to the resolution of this. Another great video Rob. PS what version of top Don do you have? I have recently purchased the airdiag500. Not sure it goes into enough of the systems.
there's a chap called matt armstrong who may beg to differ 🤣
although he's spent £3500 on some headlights so you've got a bonus
must sell alot of those crappy "food" replacement drinks lol
fuel Rob and Chris brilliant video guys
2.7tdv6 snapped crankshaft.....3.6tdv6 turbo failure/ bent conrods.......gearbox problems electric issues....these are the usual common faults....
Oil pump / cambelt tensioner mount?
Sounds like a reliable motor then 🤪🤣
They are a beautiful car however a nightmare to sustain
Hi lads.. great videos.. the unloading perspective was good (a bit too much yard) great sky.. keep em coming Rob and Chris👍
Rob and Chris I would like to see another newer shape RR sport on the channel
Just another thought, for better access underneath, have you thought about hotwiring The air suspension relay. It should raise the car for better access whether the engine is running or not. Keep up the good work. Relays under the Bonnet.
Before I watch, those wheels.....my eyes! 😅
Do a gearbox fluid and filter change, Matt at high peak recommends one over 100’000 miles, might help your selector problems .
100 percent fuel related and that's why its spinning so fast.
Fantastic video looking forward to seeing you next one 🙏🏼
Definitely the flux capacitor. The mk 2 versions of these capacitors are even worse than the mk 1
I recon its the gear positioning sensor on the gear box. Looking forward to this bit of Sherlock Holmes stuff. Cheers guys