THE CHEAPEST RANGE ROVER WILL IT START ??? WILL IT RUN ???
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- Опубликовано: 12 май 2022
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In this video we continue to work on the Range Rover Sport and hope that we can fix it.
Working at our fully equipped workshop in Kent we carry out tasks including Panel beating , Body work , Mig Welding , Sheet metal Spot Welding , Fabrication Chassis Repairs , Sand Blasting , Engine and Mechanical repairs , DPF cleaning , Restoration and Structural repairs on the Celette Jig frame machine.
We do hope you enjoy this video and Check out our other videos on all kinds of vehicles including Barn finds , Quick flips , First wash , Repairs , Salvage , Restorations , Will it run , Will it Start , Fail , Accident damaged , Cat S , Cat N , Cat X Copart auction bargains , Non Runner , NON Running , Banger ,Flood damage , insurance write off , fire damage , smoke damage , electrical fault , stolen recovered , Unfinished project and anything else that arrives at the #Salvagerebuildsuk workshop. #RobandChris .Please note We do not ' cut and shut ' and have no videos on this subject.
Please check out our back catalogue of some previous projects on various different makes and models including Ferrari, RS Turbo , Lambo , Land Rover , MG , MGF , Caterham 7 , Ford , Cosworth , Vauxhall , Fiat , Peugeot , Mercedes , Range Rover ,Bentley , Morris , Renault , Citroen , Honda , Toyota , VW , Series 3 , Evoque , GLA , Golf , 500 , Fiesta , Astra , Polo , Motorhome , Auto sleeper Camper , GTI , LSE , Lamborghini , Gallardo , LP 570-4 , Sierra , Midget , 360 , Transit , Crafter , Transporter , T5 , Combo, Berlingo , Partner , Mini , Beetle , Vivaro , Hilux , Sport and many more!
If you have a vehicle for sale that you think will be of interest to us please message Rob via Instagram and please include a contact phone number. We buy all sorts of vehicles , Boats and classic cars including Austin , Morris , Healey , Mg , Sunbeam , Talbot , Opel , XR2 , XR3 , XR4 , Bentley , Jaguar XJ6 XJ12 XJS , E Type , XKR , BMW E36 , 205 GTI , VW GTI , Viva , Astra GTE 2.0XE , Red Top , Triumph TR , VW Golf Beetle , Rover , MGB , 2CV , Midget , Nova , Chevette , Capri , P100 , lancia , Cortina MK1 Mk2 MK3 MK4 MK5 , GT6 , Jensen , Lotus , Bedford , J type , Minor , Datsun , Toyota , Sunseeker , Princess , Fairline , Windy , Hardy , RIB , Shetland , Fletcher , Bayliner , Searay , Pilot , Shakespere and many more!
We do receive quite a few questions regarding tools and equipment that we use for various jobs. Unfortunately there is to many to list but some of the brands we use include Snap-on, Blue-point , Makita , Sealey , Clark , Esab and Sykes-Pickavant .
If you are interested in a specific tool, please put your question in the comments section of the relevant video
Working at our fully equipped workshop in Kent we carry out tasks including Panel beating, Body work, Mig Welding, Sheet metal Spot Welding, Fabrication, Chassis Repairs, Sand Blasting, Engine and Mechanical repairs, DPF cleaning, Restoration and Structural repairs on the Celette Jig frame machine.
We do hope you enjoy this video and Check out our other videos on all kinds of vehicles including Barn finds, Quick flips, First wash, Repairs, Salvage, Restorations, Will it run, Accident damaged, Cat S, Cat N, Cat X Copart auction bargains, Non Runner, Flood damage, insurance write off, fire damage, smoke damage, electrical fault, stolen recovered, and anything else that arrives at the #Salvagerebuildsuk workshop. #RobandChris
Please check out our back catalogue of some previous projects on various different makes and models including Ferrari, Land Rover, MG, Caterham, Ford, Cosworth, Vauxhall, Fiat, Peugeot, Mercedes, Range Rover, Morris, Renault, Citroen, Honda, Toyota, VW, Series 3, Evoque, GLA, Golf, 500, Fiesta, Astra, Polo, Motorhome, Auto sleeper Camper, GTI, LSE, Sierra, Midget, 360, Transit, Crafter, Transporter, T5, Combo, Berlingo, Partner, Mini, Beetle, Vivaro, Hilux, Sport and many more!
We do receive quite a few questions regarding tools and equipment that we use for various jobs. Unfortunately there is to many to list but some of the brands we use include Snap-on, Blue-point, Makita, Sealey, Clark, Esab 
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Bypass as much as you can, including bypassing the fuel filter and the fuel prime button with a length of clear pipe. You will then see the fuel come up the pipe and I'd be amazed if it didn't then start. I've narrowed down plenty of diesel fuel issues in the past using this method and usually got to the bottom of the problem. I think you may have air continuing to get in to the system somewhere.
Different engine but on a Sprinter W906 2.2 cdi there's an o ring on the fuel pressure regulator that fails causing a non start. It's a bosch part and you can buy the o ring (for a merc cdi).
Always a relief when you give it a sniff and it fires up, not ideal but can at least hear it running and can help to know if belts and chains are ok 👍 good luck sorting it, one of the most interesting ones in a while
Alge blockage, running a HP Injector pump by cranking the engine with no diesel to lubricate it, destroyed it. There was water in the tank alge can grow, it killes fuel systems. Marine engineers "dose" their fuel with biocide to kill it in the crib. I bet that thing sat for ages not being started, water got into the tanks through evaporation the alge loved the environment and clogged up the filters, but burnt out the HP pump. (Ex marine engineer) Chris right again!
Enjoying the channel.
Few checks using scan tool live data
Fuel pressure - over 200 bar at cranking
Cranking speed. Over 250rpm
Check belt has not snapped for the fuel pump.
When Vcv valve goes open circuit the engine will not start
Check Vcv valve with a multimeter for resistance between 1.5 and 15 ohms.
Suspect high pressure pump🙂
Hope you get it sorted, you don't seem to be the type of guys that will give up, good luck,
cant wait unto Monday. Keep doing what you do.
had trouble starting mine this week took it to garage the mechanic found a bat hanging under bonnet it said to him you look smart today mechanic told me that's your problem bat flattery 🤣
Try inputting the EKA code via the door like (sequence of turns) the code should be in the book (or free to get from landrover). Its the failsafe to disabled the immobilizer in the event the key fob doesn't work due to interference or malfunction. It's free to try, takes a few seconds. Probably totally fine as the fobs letting you in and out the car, but never know with these motors.
this generation did not have an EKA code they simply have a chip immobiliser so this wont work
I was thinkin just the same but was blanked so its not n shut the injectors off as it would do
Hi Chris / Rob.. The Pressure control valve, Fail setting is spring pressured to dump the fuel pressure, should the valve fail.. if the elsctrical side of the solenoid fails the spring will push the valve to dump.. with ignition on .. remove and replace the power cable plug. ob solenoid. using the screwdriver to ear method .. plug in and unplug the solenoid... a clicking should be heard in ear.. you should be able to fluke ( Multi Meter ) across the pins, normal reading should be around 14 Ohms for coil .. Hope this helps
👍
Enjoy watching your channel, I am a marine engineer and boats do suffer with diesal bug . It forms on the interface between the water and the diesal , especially if they have being stood a while . Plastic tanks are bad for it as they sweat and all diesal has a water content in it . It is a micro bacteria and no matter how hard you clean it , it will be still there and it will come back so you would need a special chemical aditive once your up and running.
Further more diesal always looks clean when you drain the tank because you cant see the bug unless it is heavily contaminated , but the bug is drawn towards the feed pipes or the pumps , which ever way you draw the diesal .
Yes you are right mate, Im a generator engineer and the genny's suffer with this diesel bug, there is no way of eliminating it other than dosing the tank with the chemical you mentioned. Ive spent hours in the past cleaning tanks until you could literally eat your dinner from them, still comes back LOL. It clings the lines, pumps, filters, solenoids and everything else, total nightmare. I must admit though, once the tank has been dosed thats the end of it, good gear whatever is in it.
A word of caution on those axles stands with the cast iron uprights. They are known to fail on their higher settings. They don't give any warning, they just shear off. Those particular ones are sold under many brands. Stay safe.
Get a few railway sleepers under there even if vehicle not actually resting on them
Hi Rob and Chris, enjoying this one, have you confirmed the high pressure pump is being driven (pretty sure belt driven), it maybe that simple.? Alex.
Check the seals on the pressure regulator & sensor on the common rail. High pressure can blow past it. Had it on my own vehicle - small split in the o-ring. Found it after fitting a new high pressure pump that made no difference. Similar symptoms to yours too!
Rob and Chris can you put a video
out on a Sunday evening instead please?
That would be great:)
Another cracking video, one of the best channels on RUclips so thanks very much guys.
this was a 30 minute video, I would have watched if it was an hour. Great video Rob and Chris!
Good luck getting it going. Hopefully will be a cheap fix.
Word of warning those axle stands are made of cheese, I'd strongly recommend the SGS 3ton one's for lifting a car of that weight.
Rob - Those axle stands are lethal, I had the equivalent over here in the US and they were recalled and replaced with ones with a locking pin. If something catches that handle the car will come down. Be careful.
‘An analysis of these jack stands determined that the product quality was inconsistent due to aged tooling - and due to this the gears used to keep the load aloft are prone to slippage. In addition an inconsistent location of the main pawl armature hole also caused a margin of error which further exacerbated the issue.’
Sure but they all come from the same factories. I’m simply suggesting using stands with locking pins for safety…
I was born in London, but left the UK in 1970, Just listening to your banter makes my eyes water. This is my little piece of "home"
Are you on the uvver side of the weowd naah?
Keep pushing on guys I'm sure you will solve the issue ,and the fact your open to suggestions and advice just shows how determined you both are ,keep up the good work👍👍
Check down inside of the brass inlet pipe stem of the high pressure pump, there could be a little spring ball valve inside the inlet pipe spigot which opens and closes with the flow of fuel into the inlet. Carefully push a clean small allen key down the inside of the pipe spigot and you should be able to feel resistance of a spring valve, pushing down with force and then immediately returning on its spring. If not the valve is likely stuck down and you will need to free it off - I used some neat Archoil AR6900 additive into the pipe stem and a lot of jiggling with the Allen key before it returned and the valve worked smoothly again. I had a diesel bug problem on both a common rail Beemer and a Fiat, and in both cases the tar like gunk from the algae in the tank had formed a varnish and caused the fuel flow control spring valve in the hp inlet to gum up and stick down, rather than moving up and down freely from the fuel flow pressure, which when stuck down means that little fuel goes into the pump, it just gets bypassed and returned to the tank. The high pressure pump in each case I had was a Bosch CP series and it was the spring valve sticking which caused lack of pressure to the rail due to lack of fuel entering the inlet side of the HP. Also put some marine grade diesel biocide into the fuel tank to kill off whatever is left of the diesel bug, you can get the proper strength biocide stuff from Chandler marine.
Had the same issue on my 3.6v8, I had to crack off a pipe at the injector to bleed it and it fired straight up. Once they airlock there is no shifting it without bleeding.
We tried bud 👍
Great video as always guys,look forwards to seeing you solve the problem.
Just A Joy To Watch Rob, Love Watching These Videos And You Solving All The Problems.
Great video. Enjoyed the explanations of the troubleshooting
have you checked the fuel pump belt hasn't snapped? some people tend to skip changing those because they are tight to do. its certainly worth checking!
I am confident that you rob and Chris will differently get it sorted out , it’s got me on tender hooks great videos
Lads 👌⭐️
Love the in depth ones, nothing wrong with the bodywork/brake change vids but this stuff is golden.
I am doing some online training for work at the moment worthwhile but tedious. Just watched this video to keep me sane, thankyou for everything you do.
Good video guys even though you weren’t successful. It was a real good job in changing the fuel pump, and I’m sure it was the correct decision as part of the diagnostic process.
Looking forward to the next instalment.
Hi Chris, I had exactly same issues your having on my L322. Changed the fuel filter, and in tank fuel pump and external fuel pump but no joy. Turned out to be high pressure fuel pump as you say, but luckily from memory it was just an O ring or seal had broken on it so just managed to change that instead of buying new pump as you know are quite expensive. Then all good after that. One other thing to try as I'm not sure I heard in the video correctly, very obvious and basic but how much fuel did you put in afterwards before you cranked it? I know when I ran out of fuel in my L322 the typical 5L containers weren't enough to get it going again, needed to put in another one. Good luck mate great video!
Nice to see Rob on the tools.... brilliant video guys
Great video, loving the longer in depth content 👍
I know that you like Range Rover rob but honestly watching you struggle and you know what you are doing makes me even more sure I’d never own one they are just too much trouble, great vid though
The best thing for that diesel parasites is a drop of petrol in the tank once in a while, cleans the system from pipe to engine to the exhaust !!
great video guys! loving the more in depth stuff 😊
What a great video both I don’t what too criticise but it was lovely to see you both working together and explaining things individually keep up the good work Rob & Chris
I wouldn't bet on the most expensive and newest Range Rover starting, every time I see one I think you poor sod. It never ceases to amaze me why people buy the dam things.
The code says that the control valve is open circuit, you should be able to prove that with a multimeter. If the coil is open circuit, then the valve is knackered. The valve might be normally open and require power to close (probably a pwm signal) so that it fails safe rather than risking over pressurising the system.
Concur!
Concur again
What this guy said
Great video as always. Fingers crossed you get to the bottom of it. I watch many other salvage videos but you guys are the best ! 👍😊
Great job guys, and nice weather for outside work!, love all the detail in this one hope you get it sorted soon👍🇮🇪
Fire the parts cannon at it - that cracked me up Rob
Possibly Rob got it from the very good Watch Wes Work channel - often used when other garages keep almost randomly replacing large sets of parts without getting to the root cause of a problem.
Apparently the mechanics at Landrover hardly ever used to change the belt to the diesel pump at the back of the engine is there a chance that cambelt was changed, but the pump belt has snapped maybe🤷♂️
Hi Rob and Chris good luck with this one can't wait to hear it roar. Thanks
Good call on priming with the ether, looking forward to the next reveal and fix, keep after it guys.
Does the fuel get to the injectors in correct amount and pressure? If the crud in the fueltank was diesel bugs, could it have clogged the injectors? The engine is starved for fuel, no doubt. That can be caused by mecanical fault or electronicks. My guess is the latter. Chris is very metodical in his acessment of the problem. And you guys will solve the problem, I'm sure. Good luck guys, see you in the next one.
As always, a very interesting and informative video, I enjoyed watching it❤️
Brilliant in depth,,,love watching you guys....never defeated 😀
First time I’ve seen inside a fuel tank like that. Very interesting insight to it all guys. Great video as per 👏🏾👏🏾
Measure the fuel pressure in high side. It needs to be over 300bar othewise ecm doesn't open the injectors at all. That fault code you keep having can easily be follow up a reason. Reason for that is not enough pressure in rail. Low pressure situation in rail is easily caused by leaking injector either to the cylinder or just to the return line. Fault code can really be faulty regulator or it is wires. To start up that engine you have to have that code fixed.
To rule out high pressure pump and its components and injectors you guys have to block every injector pressure feed pipe really good and then measure the rail pressure while cranking. If everything is in order, pressure will rise over 400bar easily and stay there as long as crank spins. For this type of rule out test. I've done plugs from old injector feed pipes with mig welder. Those plugs has saved hours and hours guessing and a lot's of euros. Electrically shorted piezo injector can easily cause a lot of headache. Plugs has to be made from steel just because high pressures and they must not leak at all. Commonrail high pressure pumps doesn't build any kind great flow or pressure if there is no backpressure to build pressure against it. So any leak will cause problems.
Chris's grass is looking good
Hi Chris and Rob, I had same issue with my tdv6 2009 the Siemens HP pump has a sensor inside that can fail. Required new HP pump. I changed LP pump first and filter like you have as it was easier to do. LR techs did the HP pump and great since.
You should be able to use a multimeter on the control valve to see if it is open loop (OL) if it is then the sensor is knackered. Can’t wait to see the next one. Brilliant work and thanks for sharing this with us take care
Throwing in a wild card, I think its the aftermarket wheels.
Lol
@@sruk 😂😂😂😂
Really enjoying the Range Rover video guys
Love the in depth video Rob and Chris very interesting ,sorry ,haven't got a scooby why it wont start , but has told me to steer well clear !!👍
Enjoyed watching this. I wouldn't know where to start but am confident that you'll both crack this one very soon
Had the same with my RRS, try the immobiliser relay..
Have you tried priming the high pressure side of the fuel system, right up to the injectors it's fiddly but at least you'll know that the air is purged right out.
I'd slacken all the high pressure pipes at the injectors and also the discharge pipe of the high pressure (hp) pump then spin the engine, tighten up the discharge pipe when diesel comes through then tighten up the injector pipes if and when they vent fuel.
It took me the best part of 2 hours to bleed one of these after just changing the filter. I ended up doing the full high pressure side like you mentioned before it eventually started.
Great video, hopefully you can get to the bottom of the problem. I dread to think how much a dealer would charge to remove and clean the tank and change the pump.
Hi, Go to live data as you are turning it over and look at the HP pressure, it needs around 300bar before it will fire the injectors. Do a leak down test it could be the injectors leaking pressure back and therefore not building enough pressure to fire the injectors.
Happy Friday guys.. Must be time for a beer
This type of video is excellent
👍👍👍
Hi Rob & Chris I had discovery 2 with same problem mine was throttle demand sensor hope you get it going 👍
Brilliant, love the in-depth fault investigation episodes
Hello guys, If I were you I'd be removing the fuel pump regulator on the back of the high pressure pump. If it's the type that has a mesh fitted to the end, if the pump is bad you should be able to see metal shavings on it. A high pressure fuel gauge would be the tool for diagnostics going forward.
You can't beat good old cars.
Simple to fix.
Great videos all week as usual
Have a good weekend fellas
Roll on Monday
Hi Chris and Rpb if you crack off an injector feed pipe and crank the car and put a clean rag around the end of the pipe you will be able to check if the high pressure pump is ok or not as a few years ago my brother had a 406 Hdi and the pump was starved of fuel and the high pressure side destroyed the brass impeller inside the pump the tell tale for which was brass filings inside the pipework to the injector these are also prone to the pressure regulator failing but you can rule out the pump by checking for metal in the fuel first cheers love watching your channel
There is no fuel to the injectors 👍
Definitely much prefer the more in depth longer videos👍
Holy moly guys. Taking the tank out can be pretty daunting to most but not you. Long gone are the days of getting to the in tank pump from under the seat but I'm sure you'll get it running very soon 👍🏻
Great video as always. You guys have lion hearts. Have a great weekend and thank you for sharing
Really enjoyed this Vlog guys , it's going to be so intersting to find out what the eventual solution will be , good luck .
Chris needs to get some sun lotion on that bright red bonce of his before it gets too sun burnt lol😂🥵
Friday came around quick !!! Lovely , cider, kebab and salvage rebuilds !!!!!!
Sounds lovely
A cider kebab ?
@@jaybenjamin5649 yeah tastes better than the Stella version ...
@@toolrestoration I was thinking I must try this new kebab drink and food in one. Yum 😋
Really enjoyed the diagnosis, will be good to hear what the previous owner had to say about that car.
your videos just keep getting better keep up the good work guys
I know on some diesels (maybe all of them) the HP fuel pump uses the diesel as a lubricant which when the LP pump fails sometimes causes the HP to fail through lack of lubrication, unfortunately even spinning the engine over trying to start it could spell the end for the HP pump
These issues are a pain in the ass. the problem can be a needle in a haystack but - its shortened to certain areas.
1. The fuel tank
2. Fuel Pump
3. Filte
4. Lines
5. Injectors
The fuel volume regulator code may have several causes:
Disconnected plug to the fuel regulator.
Possible corrosion in the sensor connector.
Damage to the sensor wiring to the ECM.
Leaking fuel pressure regulator.
Damaged fuel pump.
The ECM is damaged.
- The P0001 code will produce a Check Engine Light on the instrument panel/dash and will likely affect:
The engine’s performance during driving
Vehicle won't start. Possible stalling.
Engine stops shortly after starting.
"Limp mode" enabled and/or lack of power.
It may cause the exhaust to show smoke in various colors from black to white
Fuel economy will not be efficient
- The most common potential steps to repair it are as follows:
Check the connection is correctly made as well as the ground.
Check there are no other related electronic faults.
Check there are no damaged or cut cables.
Check there is a correct working voltage in the valve.
Check the condition of the fuel filter as well as fuel hoses, which are not bent or cut.
Inspect all of the items listed above. (wiring, leaks, etc)
Replace the fuel volume control valve (VCV) or otherwise repair if possible. On some models it is not possible to replace this part and the solution is to replace the whole fuel pump.
In other cases, the work of this part can be replaced by a non-return valve, thus avoiding the return of fuel to the tank and improving start-up.
Replace the component, wiring, or ECM (requires programming) which is faulty.
- Do not handle the fuel system without waiting 60 seconds to reduce the fuel pressure in the system. In the common rail system there may be a pressure greater than 1000 bar.
- Avoid handling the system with the engine running. High pressure fuel leaks may occur.
- Just replacing the fuel pressure regulator never guarantees a successful repair in resolving your issue. It may be caused by several components as listed above and more.
- Performing a visual inspection and testing the car with a scan tool, and other special equipment listed above, will verify your issue before spending money and time replacing the fuel pressure regulator unnecessarily.
- Electrical signals require evaluation by a scan tool and voltage meter to ensure that the fuel pressure regulator requires replacement or if another problem exists. Additional testing may be required.
very pricey. but i have heard of alot going to Bosch for the cheaper regulators etc.
good luck guys
Great video, really enjoyed the way that you work logically on the problem. All the work that you have done so far is not in vane, it needed doing anyway. Is there an additive to kill or prevent algae forming in these plastic tanks ?
High pressure pump imo but another great video and YES Rob you're 100% when you said everyone loved the more in depth longer video. You're again correct with the no one wants to see too much of the figuring out/guess work its more of a this is the problem, this is what causes it, this is what you do to solve it, this is the process of fixing it and this is how you do it. At least that's what I find with iphone etc work.
"We don't want to Fire the parts Cannon at it " .. That did make me laugh ..I can relate to that in my job but not in vehicles .
I have had TO MANY nightmares with these sports!!!!best thing to do is insure it and set fire to it!!!honestly the things are a constant ballache!!good luck dudes love your channel
Evening Rob & Chris. You guys never cease to amaze me with your perseverance when something isn’t working 🤣 This I’ll be a tough one for you both but I’m sure it’ll get fixed 🤩 Great video as always 👍🏻
Brilliant video lads really interesting looking forward to seeing the next one 👍
Thanks for another interesting video. You Guys should know by now with all your experience what the problem is, It's written right on it where it says "Range Rover" L.O.L. Take care .
Don’t know how useful this is but I had a non start like this and it was definitely the high pressure fuel pump.
keeping going guys, great vid, look forward to the next one.
Cracking video, back in the day these RRS's really were top of the tree in sport SUV's. I was lucky enough to work for a Land Rover Dealer in this period as well as my family owning one.
"Sniff it up" lmao. Loving these more in depth videos
Nice to see Rob doing a bit for a change 😂😂
Definitely fuel issues am sure you will get there guy's don't give up on it it's a nice car it will tidy up well.
Great video as usual 👍 I’ve had same issues with 1 series BMW, will be posting my video on it soon, after full engine rebuild low fuel pressure, new pump from tank, new high pressure pump still not start, new fuel rail bingo , an absolute nightmare when it comes to fuel pressure issues, it’s just about going through all the components until issues solved, good luck 🤞
Loving these long videos
Yes! Love the long videos
Very similar to mine. Would run on carb cleaner aerosol. Did the same as you checking pump, no joy. Filters again no luck. Took cam cover off and near side bank timing chain snapped. This only drives the exhaust valves. Didn’t touch any of them. Still a swine of a job though. Good luck with yours chaps!
I love the horse paddock you've got with your garage!
I generally don't touch the tank pump if it runs and cut's out.. this issue is caused by fungus build up much further up the system contaminating senser or blocking the line spring from functioning, clean both and she should run
If the cam belt was changed recently have they changed the pump belt if so check it is timed up correctly if memories right I think it’s vital for them to be timed properly.
Rob and Chris, you are very clever gentlemen. I am in awe of your ability.
Another excellent video gents, with a distinctly different feeling, probably because it's outside? Logically working through the problems will see you succeed, try not to get discouraged. Already looking forward to the next episode already..