The testing was done using an XT-3. I would think that results should be similar using XH-1. I was looking specifically for a video showcasing the 150-600mm with the XT-3 or XH-1, and I highly recommend that you should put the camera used in the video description. After having viewed this video, I am extremely interested in this lens as a future purchase, for use with my XH-1. Thank You for producing such a good and informative video presentation.
Thanks Wayne, always appreciate your videos, lived experience and photography. I remember watching your first review which put the lens on my to get list and I can now say as of 2 months ago it has now become apart of my Fuji collection. Look forward to the Puffins 🤩 Thanks again 🙏
Thank you for sharing your experience! I have this lens for about a half a year. I use it with my X-H2s for BiF and planespotting. It‘s an amazing lens and the half step from f6.3 to f8 is no problem for me. And someone who needs f4 at 600mm has to pay 14k€ (Sony) or 17k€ (Nikon Z) 🤷♂️. The lens is sharp and not too heavy, AF is fast and reliable, but you have to learn to adjust some settings to have permanent good results.
Thank you and I agree with your comments about this lens, it’s great! How are you finding the X-H2S for birds in flight and how do you find the autofocus?
I’ve had this lens about the same amount of time and was using it on a X-T3 to start with. However a few months ago I bought the X-H2S and with the 150-600 it’s just a perfect partnership. If you haven’t got one yet then I can recommend buying one. Great video and thanks for sharing your thoughts.
Thanks a lot for this insightful video! Really like all the fantastic pictures and video stuff. Too many RUclipsrs just do talking head video without showing examples, you do it right! I am still working with the 100-400mm which tends sometimes just to be a bit „short“, so I am thinking about getting the 150-600mm.. 😀
Great video... and some quotes to take and ponder. "Don't be so quick to blame our equipment"...That's worth reminding myself anytime dissatisfaction and GAS sets in! I'm wondering if you shoot in short or long burst? It would seem logical that it would cause some vibration thus hampering tack sharp directly out of camera. Also, despite the distance, movement will alert most animals, especially deer. How much is handheld vs. tripod and, do you utilize a blind or camo? Some great catches for your book. Thank you, Wayne!
Thanks very much for watching and your comment! For wildlife I think certain gear/gear features definitely can help in some situations (typically more advanced situations), and autofocus is very important, but we can often achieve a lot with less than we think. I use a lot of different techniques depending on what I'm photographing and what I want to achieve but typically I will shoot in fairly short bursts. All of the photographs in this video were shot handheld. As for camo I only have one item (trousers) which I don't often wear. I think it's important to wear suitable clothing and camo isn't essential however it may help in some situations. All of these shots were captured without camo or use of a blind. Best wishes, Wayne.
I had this lens for 8 months and in the beginning I was overal sattified but after 4 months I’ve got frustrated. I was missing shot I never missed with my Canon 100-400 mm mk II. I was not sure if the H2S was the cause or the lens. Send the body in for repair. After return still the same problem. The shop returned my lens and gave a new one. Same result. I was missing shots I never missed. My fx 100-400 was giving better result. I got very frustrated with the results and I gave it back. I was on the point selling all my beloved fuji camera’s. It was only when i got the fx 70-300 the I feel beter for the results. I still have my H2S and H2 and still love them but not for wildlive. I also shoot my fx 100-400 and bought a Canon R6m2 with the rf 100-500 and this combination brought me back to wildlife. This combination is so much better. After a month shooting with my Canon I read that if you have AF & MF ON then the focus on the fuji is working not very good. For me it was to late. Now Canon is for serious work and my fuji is for traveling and if I want just have fun.
Hi Tony, I’m afraid I don’t have a Fujifilm camera (and it may differ from model to model) to be able to answer with 100% certainty. However from memory I believe it can be done on the ones I’ve used.
I'd say this lens is what ultimately pushed me over to go switch systems. The Nikon 180-600 (f/6.3 at 600) is about 100€ cheaper, the Sony 200-600 (also f/6.3) about 500€ cheaper. Why does this f/8 APS-C zoom cost more than those very good Full Frame options? Wasn't APS-C supposed to be more affordable? Fuji's price policies have been more than questionable lately and as soon as Nikon announced their 180-600 I ordered it plus a Z8 to replace my X-H2. I'd suggest testing the new bodies before buying. On my X-H2 the subject detection is really good, always on point, but half the images are still out of focus for no apparent reason. This seems to only be the case when using subject detection though.
For example because the Nikon and Sony lenses are much heavier. For example because the XF 150-600 has NO distortion. As a zoom. At ALL focal lenghths! And when your pictures are not in focus try this: Boost ON. Focuspriority AF-S and AF-C. AF+MF OFF, otherwise you fall back to releasepriority. And try AF-C Settings 2 (with the 🐆). Cheers! 📷
@@Powerland56 the Sony and Nikon lenses are amazing optically, I doubt that the Fuji lens is any better. And of course, a f/8 lens is going to be lighter, it's very much a compromise though. As for the AF, I've been using Fuji for years, I know and tried everything.
Fuji is broadest zoom in class, lightest in class, and made in Japan with outstanding quality (probably costing a bit more as a result). It is also par focal. Image quality is outstanding-no weaknesses so far as I can tell. Where I’m from it costs the same as the Sony and more than the Nikon. It’s way less than the Canon 100-500. Fuji delivered a different compromise here, I think, and prioritized portability over aperture. 1 stop of aperture (or less) is pretty moot, imo. It could be a fixed f/5.6 and it would still not save me most of the time. But definitely if you don’t like it, buy something else!
Thanks for sharing your experiences with the lens. I am still very much on the fence about upgrading my 100-400 to this lens. I completely agree with you about the 600mm aperture being a bit of a non-sequitur. To get to a similar focal length with the XF100-400 I have to use the 1.4x teleconverter and that automatically increases the minimum aperture to f8. Fair enough, that is the same as the 150-600 only it isn't because the image degrades when using the TC and I have to stop down to f9 or f11 (optimal) to maintain sharpness. If the 150-600 really does deliver sharp images as f8 that is an extra stop of light compared the XF100400+TC1.4x. What is holding me back a bit is the additional weight although there is only 100g in it. This is because at my age (68) I am already finding that the X-H2S, XF100-400 and TC1.4x combination is already a bit heavy. Decision, decisions but thank you for your thoughts.
The 200mm F2 would indeed be quite a bit better in most scenarios. However, it costs so much more then the 150-600. So in my opinion the 150-600 has a much better value.
Not sure how anyone can make the case for f8 on a crop sensor being adequate for anything other than midday wildlife photography at certain angles with clean / distant backgrounds. Fuji could have easily made this a 150-600 f5-6.3 at roughly the same size & weight as Sony 200-600 f5.6-6.3, but they really think another 8 oz is a deal breaker? Would have hit a home run attracting people to the X system instead of appealing to the fanniest of fanbois, causing many photogs to switch systems entirely… btw xt-3 pairs nicely with the Tamron 150-500 at nearly half the cost.
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The testing was done using an XT-3. I would think that results should be similar using XH-1. I was looking specifically for a video showcasing the 150-600mm with the XT-3 or XH-1, and I highly recommend that you should put the camera used in the video description. After having viewed this video, I am extremely interested in this lens as a future purchase, for use with my XH-1. Thank You for producing such a good and informative video presentation.
Thanks Wayne, always appreciate your videos, lived experience and photography. I remember watching your first review which put the lens on my to get list and I can now say as of 2 months ago it has now become apart of my Fuji collection. Look forward to the Puffins 🤩 Thanks again 🙏
Thanks very much David and it’s great to hear that you now have the lens. I hope you capture many great photos with it! 😀
Thank you for sharing your experience! I have this lens for about a half a year. I use it with my X-H2s for BiF and planespotting. It‘s an amazing lens and the half step from f6.3 to f8 is no problem for me. And someone who needs f4 at 600mm has to pay 14k€ (Sony) or 17k€ (Nikon Z) 🤷♂️. The lens is sharp and not too heavy, AF is fast and reliable, but you have to learn to adjust some settings to have permanent good results.
Thank you and I agree with your comments about this lens, it’s great! How are you finding the X-H2S for birds in flight and how do you find the autofocus?
I’ve had this lens about the same amount of time and was using it on a X-T3 to start with. However a few months ago I bought the X-H2S and with the 150-600 it’s just a perfect partnership. If you haven’t got one yet then I can recommend buying one.
Great video and thanks for sharing your thoughts.
Thanks a lot for this insightful video! Really like all the fantastic pictures and video stuff. Too many RUclipsrs just do talking head video without showing examples, you do it right! I am still working with the 100-400mm which tends sometimes just to be a bit „short“, so I am thinking about getting the 150-600mm.. 😀
Thanks very much for your feedback that’s great to hear. Much appreciated!
Some cracking images Wanye, awesome piece of kit, I am torn between that and the Tamron 150-500, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video I found it extremely informative.
Great video... and some quotes to take and ponder. "Don't be so quick to blame our equipment"...That's worth reminding myself anytime dissatisfaction and GAS sets in! I'm wondering if you shoot in short or long burst? It would seem logical that it would cause some vibration thus hampering tack sharp directly out of camera. Also, despite the distance, movement will alert most animals, especially deer. How much is handheld vs. tripod and, do you utilize a blind or camo? Some great catches for your book. Thank you, Wayne!
Thanks very much for watching and your comment! For wildlife I think certain gear/gear features definitely can help in some situations (typically more advanced situations), and autofocus is very important, but we can often achieve a lot with less than we think. I use a lot of different techniques depending on what I'm photographing and what I want to achieve but typically I will shoot in fairly short bursts. All of the photographs in this video were shot handheld. As for camo I only have one item (trousers) which I don't often wear. I think it's important to wear suitable clothing and camo isn't essential however it may help in some situations. All of these shots were captured without camo or use of a blind. Best wishes, Wayne.
@@WayneRobertsonPhotography Thank you for your reply, Wayne. Looking forward to your next video!!
BEAUTIFUL images and good video!
Thank you 😊
I had this lens for 8 months and in the beginning I was overal sattified but after 4 months I’ve got frustrated. I was missing shot I never missed with my Canon 100-400 mm mk II. I was not sure if the H2S was the cause or the lens. Send the body in for repair. After return still the same problem. The shop returned my lens and gave a new one. Same result. I was missing shots I never missed.
My fx 100-400 was giving better result. I got very frustrated with the results and I gave it back. I was on the point selling all my beloved fuji camera’s. It was only when i got the fx 70-300 the I feel beter for the results. I still have my H2S and H2 and still love them but not for wildlive.
I also shoot my fx 100-400 and bought a Canon R6m2 with the rf 100-500 and this combination brought me back to wildlife. This combination is so much better.
After a month shooting with my Canon I read that if you have AF & MF ON then the focus on the fuji is working not very good. For me it was to late. Now Canon is for serious work and my fuji is for traveling and if I want just have fun.
Lovely video and a fantastic lens to match
Thanks Chad, I’m glad you enjoyed the video!
Can the exposure compensation be adjusted quickly and easily in manual mode (auto iso) whilst looking through the viewfinder?
Hi Tony, I’m afraid I don’t have a Fujifilm camera (and it may differ from model to model) to be able to answer with 100% certainty. However from memory I believe it can be done on the ones I’ve used.
@@WayneRobertsonPhotography hi Wayne thanks for your reply. Apologies, I thought you had the X-H2S. Must have got it wrong.
I'd say this lens is what ultimately pushed me over to go switch systems. The Nikon 180-600 (f/6.3 at 600) is about 100€ cheaper, the Sony 200-600 (also f/6.3) about 500€ cheaper. Why does this f/8 APS-C zoom cost more than those very good Full Frame options? Wasn't APS-C supposed to be more affordable? Fuji's price policies have been more than questionable lately and as soon as Nikon announced their 180-600 I ordered it plus a Z8 to replace my X-H2. I'd suggest testing the new bodies before buying. On my X-H2 the subject detection is really good, always on point, but half the images are still out of focus for no apparent reason. This seems to only be the case when using subject detection though.
For example because the Nikon and Sony lenses are much heavier. For example because the XF 150-600 has NO distortion. As a zoom. At ALL focal lenghths! And when your pictures are not in focus try this: Boost ON. Focuspriority AF-S and AF-C. AF+MF OFF, otherwise you fall back to releasepriority. And try AF-C Settings 2 (with the 🐆). Cheers! 📷
@@Powerland56 the Sony and Nikon lenses are amazing optically, I doubt that the Fuji lens is any better. And of course, a f/8 lens is going to be lighter, it's very much a compromise though. As for the AF, I've been using Fuji for years, I know and tried everything.
Thanks to you both for sharing your thoughts and experiences!
Fuji is broadest zoom in class, lightest in class, and made in Japan with outstanding quality (probably costing a bit more as a result). It is also par focal. Image quality is outstanding-no weaknesses so far as I can tell. Where I’m from it costs the same as the Sony and more than the Nikon. It’s way less than the Canon 100-500. Fuji delivered a different compromise here, I think, and prioritized portability over aperture. 1 stop of aperture (or less) is pretty moot, imo. It could be a fixed f/5.6 and it would still not save me most of the time. But definitely if you don’t like it, buy something else!
Simply because they aren't equivalent focal length
Thanks for sharing your experiences with the lens. I am still very much on the fence about upgrading my 100-400 to this lens. I completely agree with you about the 600mm aperture being a bit of a non-sequitur. To get to a similar focal length with the XF100-400 I have to use the 1.4x teleconverter and that automatically increases the minimum aperture to f8. Fair enough, that is the same as the 150-600 only it isn't because the image degrades when using the TC and I have to stop down to f9 or f11 (optimal) to maintain sharpness. If the 150-600 really does deliver sharp images as f8 that is an extra stop of light compared the XF100400+TC1.4x. What is holding me back a bit is the additional weight although there is only 100g in it. This is because at my age (68) I am already finding that the X-H2S, XF100-400 and TC1.4x combination is already a bit heavy. Decision, decisions but thank you for your thoughts.
Thanks for watching and for sharing your thoughts, hopefully you will settle on a decision! My lens is definitely sharp at 600mm and f/8.
The 200mm F2 would indeed be quite a bit better in most scenarios. However, it costs so much more then the 150-600. So in my opinion the 150-600 has a much better value.
Not sure how anyone can make the case for f8 on a crop sensor being adequate for anything other than midday wildlife photography at certain angles with clean / distant backgrounds. Fuji could have easily made this a 150-600 f5-6.3 at roughly the same size & weight as Sony 200-600 f5.6-6.3, but they really think another 8 oz is a deal breaker? Would have hit a home run attracting people to the X system instead of appealing to the fanniest of fanbois, causing many photogs to switch systems entirely… btw xt-3 pairs nicely with the Tamron 150-500 at nearly half the cost.