Now that im getting used to this beast of a lens I think its really great apart from the AF issue mentioned! Are you debating getting this one? Let me know!
So a little update, I already have the lens for around a month and I am really surprised by the performance. I was even testing this lens at f/8 on 40Mpx X-H2 and the noise looks like ISO 3200-6400. Great lens, although the build quality is honestly pathetic.
@@michalsiegel6717 so, because it is lightweight it is built poorly? If it was built as the 100-400 it would’ve weighed around 2.5 kg, and then you would’ve complained about the heft… it’s all compromises - and the lens works well, even after many months and much use
@@Mortenthorpe-DK Stop making things up. I wouldn't complain about weight because 2.5-4kg is normal for wildlife lens. For example Sigma 150-600 Sport for Canon EF. Not even mentioning fast white Canon primes. Weight belongs to wildlife, that's how it is. You can't make fast long telephoto being tiny and light. The only think I didn't take the 100-400 over this lens was the optical output which I tested in person. The new 150-600 just handles the big resolution sensor better. However if the lens were at least optically same I would sacrifice the reach and go for the 100-400 just because the built quality. ;) And no, it is not built poorly because it is lightweight. It is lightweight because it is built poorly. I like the optical output but I don't trust it enough.
Thanks Carl, always appreciated. Its also so much more fun to show the photos in a video as opposed to Instagram. Something ive been thinking about lately. seems rather dead on that platform for pure photos. This was made a little rough as planning, filming and editing has been more of a challenge than first anticipated in those 40+ degrees celcius. + our aircon is buggered. Working with what we have, hey?!
I’ll set the lens to auto aperture but have the camera in manual mode. This lets me use the front dial for aperture, which I find more convenient than the ring on the lens. Really liked your review, great photos!
Yes, would love to know more about travelling in Africa for wildlife photography. We are hoping to visit in Nov to Dec but don’t know where to go. The choice is huge. I’m thinking about Botswana with some travel on river with a photography guiding company.
Hey Stuart! You are right, there are so many places to choose from. Just got back from Moremi game reserve after a few days of extremely lucky and great sightings. We are talking African painted dogs, lions, elephants etc etc to name a few. Great spot as well! River photography is great, just bring a tripod with an adjustable head for maximum creative output and to be ready when the action happens. You dont want to go tired waiting for a shot only to put down the camera and then boom, the shot happens unable to capture it. Cheers for watching, I apprecaite it!
Loved this! Your images are stunning, Dan! I’ve been thinking about getting this lens, but the slow aperture has kept me away so far. Did you think it was a limitation in your test? Your skills are pro level, and I think you’d make mind-blowing images with any lens and camera setup. I’m an amateur/enthusiast and I find it really useful to have a lot of light through the lens as I learn wildlife photography. Would you recommend this lens to newbies like me? Just subbed to your channel. Great content!
Thanks a bunch - ya, it is on the slower side, hence the more affordable price as well though. At dusk and dawn it has its limitations, but on that note, lightrooms AI denoise feature is amazing, and I can shoot fast shutterspeeds at ISO 6400 and get the images I want. Its all about being where the action is and practice a lot, and youll get cool images with any setup. It is however an impressing lens at 600mm which is about 900mm fullframe equivalent, so you get really close.
I love this lens - just gorgeous images. I shoot portraits with it as well, and in that capacity, it can be insanely awesome. You want that white paint / plastic over magnesium frame. The black red badge lenses are black metal (which also can chip off), which can burn you in the summer and freeze you in the winter (the aperture/focus rings are metal, not rubber). This lens may be long, but it balances beautifully and is a joy to use. In fact, I think it is the best of the current "superzoom" crop overall.
The more I use it, the more I like it to be fair. Much has happened since this video was made, and Ive got so much stuff captured using it. Cant speak for all brands superzooms, but wow... Fuji nailed this one! Agree on the metal ones gettin hot, and the plasticy feel doesnt bother me. It was just if I had to put a finger on something! Cheers for watching!
@@DanielBryn It is a lens you need to get used too, and when you spend time with it, it delivers perfection. I have shot pictures of Saturn‘s rings with this lens. ❤
Did you bring your 50-140mm on this trip? Im doing a similar trip and am considering buying one to fit between my 16-55 and 100-400 + TC. Thanks and looking forward to more videos.
Hi Daniel! Great video. I’d be really interested to learn how you have both your H2s and XT-5 setup/programmed for wildlife photography and videography. (I really wish there was a combined mammal & bird autofocus tracking!)
Hey Dan, thank you! Short and sweet, I have the preprogram dials on the XH2 for all of that. Its really easy to set up, and with the flick of a switch you can change between modes. One for bird, and one for mammals for example. Might do a video about how to set this up later, and if I do, what else might be interesting to know? Cheers for watching!
Love your videos! Looking forward to my trip to Namibia early next year. Thank you for the recommendation on Bushlore, I've decided to go with them. Expect a smooth and happy trip!
@@DanielBryn Thank you friend, My choice is HilC2 - Toyota Hilux （with Camping & Safari Equipment）, yes we are booking the campsite now ( Quivertree Forest Rest , SESRIEM OSHANA CAMPSITE , Spitzkoppe campsite and Etosha park inside and outside camp . ) It will be our first camping trip😅😉
@@BenjaminHillA You will absolutely LOVE it there. Good choice on Spitzkoppe, the landscape is amazing! And Sesriem I think has a cafe with the famous apple pie you must try.
@@DanielBryn I love wildlife photography and I have four nights in Etosha, might be Okaukuejo , Halali and Onguma Tamboti Campsite( out side the park,near the east gate) .could you give me some suggestions? mang thanks.
Do you use correct shutter speed? You must remember your shutter speed must be twice the focal length you use so if you use 600mm your shutter speed should be no less than 1200/sec@chrisdan8139
Nice review dude. As well as a great wildlife lens, this would be amazing for surf photography/videography because F8 is not really as much of an issue. Plus, you're right about Lightroom Classic doing an amazing job of enhancing images. Since I've been using it with my 70-300, the images have definitely kicked up a notch in detail.
You're right on the button there - I've been using mine for shooting surfing here, in Cornwall, since the first day I put my x-t5 on it; and I'll be doing a fair amount of 120fps video now that I've got my shiny new x-h2s' custom modes sorted {:0)
Is the IQ better than the 70-300? I currently have the 70-300/XH2S combo and find the IQ a little underwhelming but its a really convenient set up. Thinking about the 150-600 but worried about f8 as I'll need to run a high SS during winter light. Is it sharp wide open? Just an enthusiast taking photos of surfing.
@@peterjackhandy cool man! On the X-T4 I have the 1.29 crop mode set along with the 1.4 with the 70-300, so it gives more than 800mm full frame equivalent of view for video. I guess the X-H2S has the same feature right?
@@wh909 I've never used the 150-600, but it does look like a great lens and there have been a quite a few photographers/videographers saying it has great image quality, particularly on the 26mp sensor cameras. Unless you're shooting in low light, F8 doesn't matter for surfing because you'll be using it in daylight most of the time. Also, try using the denoise feature in Lightroom Classic because it definitely enhances the images 👍
Youre asking a tough question there. Ill go with Moremi, or rather the area outside Moremi. Khwai community. Its got everything. Though Chobe is amazing with the ammount of elephants by the river, not to mention big herds of buffaloes in the thousands. Tough one, but still Moremi (Khwai)
@@DanielBryn On it mate, well this channel is going to be like what I post mainly for fun, but I've got big plans for a second channel I plan on launching on my birthday next May, which I'm super excited about!
@@DanielBryn It needs six months of planning and prep so when I launch I have a bank of content to roll out and also I want to be a bit strategic with it as I hope it'll finally lead to me being location independent. Plus launching it on my birthday with the backstory of the channel will be cool
Hey there, most of the photos were done with the XT5. I tried the 100-400 a long time ago, but I couldnt say which is better. This however is a very versatile lens for a good price! Thanks for watching
@@DanielBryn did both of you tried the different AF-C Custom Settings? many fuji users, me included, who struggled with the fuji AF didnt knew about this settings and it makes a huge difference :)
@@SN4YZE im not sure to be fair, what settings would that be? I can say that i didnt have the latest firmware though, and bird photography isnt my main thing w the lens. Af on mammals worked like a charm most of the time. But you might have a point; might be user error as is often the case
@@DanielBryn In the AF/MF Settings Menue there is on page one "AF-C Custom Settings" where you can set speed and tracking sensitivity manually or with some presets for sports, animals, motorsports, etc
@@DanielBryn You can set autofocus custom setting, where you tell the camera to prioritize focusing on the closest thing or the thing in the middle or a combination of the two. you can also set tracking sensitivity to ignore all obstacles when something is either closest or in the center of the frame. Depending on the situation and setting you chose the fuji AF can be lightning fast and almost never fail. These settings will also be saved onto the c1-c7 settings on your X-HS2, so it will remember those focus settings for certain situations.
Hei Daniel thx for this and so many great videos but my question is about local lengths. I'm planning a safari with my Nikon Z6ii. Now in previous videos you said that the 100-400 was the best focal length for safari and that's all one would need but now you've got the 150-600 so I'm just wondering which one you truly recommend. Though I will be taking photos I want to make more video. So would you recommend the 100-400 Nikon S with maybe a 1.4 converter or the 180-600. Ps I actually like the 60-600 Sigma focal length best but Sigma hasn't got a Nikon mount yet. Until our paths gross again enjoy living the great life 🦁
Thank you very much - and yes, that was indeed said. My best answer to this would be that you make it work with whatever you have. That said, the 100-400 was another system and fullframe with more megapixels, thus more flex to crop in. an up to 400 will serve you very well! longer lenses are generally bigger also, which is something I noticed about this one. Now I get all excited and maybe say this or that is the best, simply because I get so enthusiastic about being out there, and getting the images I get. I could have just as easily said it about a 100-400, and I have tried the fuji 100-400 also. At the end of the day, no matter the lens, if you can zoom anywhere from 100, up to 400, youll have a blast and get nice images. Its about being where the action happens. So that is what I truly recommend; just go out there, like you are going to, and work with what you have. 100-400 with the converter is plenty enough. Thanks for watching, and hope this helps ~Daniel
@@DanielBryn Hi again, well I use to have the Sigma 120-300 2.8 on my then D4 and bought it over the 150-600 because of its 2.8 but then my focus was photography. and also had not 1 but 2 1.4 converters and they both broke and I found the 300 was just to short, but I got many great photos as I share the same believe use what you have and make it work. I guess I was just thrown my your previous comments about the 100-400 and thought it might work better with a converter as its way lighter than the 120-300 but I guess when one start out with a converter in mind your focal length is to short. So now its between selling my Nikon Z6ii and go with a Sony and the Sigma 60-600 as I want to focus on video and will be loosing to on many close opportunities or keeping it and go with the Nikon 180-600 although on Mirrorless you can now switch over to DX and that will make the lighter but more expensive 100-400 with a 1.4 converter a 840 if I'm not mistaken. There is just no perfect lens but I'm trying to make the best decision possible. For what your wildlife photo and stock video needs would you go back to the 100-400 if you did not have the Sony A1 or stick to the 150-600 range.
Always awesome content! What do you think of Mana Pools? It's my dream self drive safari destination. I've been camping in Etosha, South Luangwa, Kwhai, Central Kalahari, but Mana Pools seems very special. I know every visit makes a place feel different, but for you how does Mana Pools compare to other national parks?
I loved it there, it ranks now as one of the favourites for sure. The light is magical, it has wide open areas between large trees and is just a pretty special place there. Unfortunately we didnt do south Luangwa; what was that like? Its hard to compare Mana to other places, just like Central Kalahari is hard to compare. Its just different, and thats what I love about Africa. The bush isnt just the bush. Every place has its own charm, feel and look.
South Luangwa was great to us, for such a reknown park, not too many cars when we went, amazing wildlife, interesting driving as well in some parts, and good walking safari. If you have the opportunity, definitely give it a go. Zambia in general is excellent, as you have seen a bit. Thanks for your feel about Mana Pools, I hope I will get a visit as good as yours when I get there. Any tips on the areas are welcome. Your CKGR for dummies video was literally what made us go there last year, so definitely worth you suffering through the video editing 😊. For your next vid on wildlife video/photography best places, maybe camping scenery/animal visits would be a cool criteria to consider as well 👍
@@daviddupuy6104 Awesome, thank you for the feedback and comments! Ya, we really want to go visit South Luangwa next time. I think Zambia still is a bit off the radar for most people, but with such potential, and now that African Parks has taken over management of Kafue, I think it will (hopefully) pick up and max its potential. So glad to hear my video inspired you to go to CKGR - it is truly a magical place, and I must admit it is my favourite, simply because of the remoteness and the feeling of truly being out in a wild place. One of the few left. Look forward to hearing about your journey! Happy travels
Great review. I wish the AF was better for tracking birds but that is mostly the actual camera's fault. Have you used it after the latest firmware update? I really want to get this lens for my X-T5 but I am really doubting Fuji as good for bird photography.
Ill be honest and say your doubts may be right. But its still a great lens for the price, so what you have to consider is; are you willing to pay all that much more just to get the incrementally better af on lets say a Sony? Or maybe it is a bit better than incremental, but still. I havent tested with the new firmware unfortunately, but ive read its a good upgrade, and when the nail it, I think id stick with fuji and practice with what I have. Thanks for watching by the way. Hope this gave you some perspective to consider.
@@DanielBryn I actually had Sony gear (a6000 and a5000) and sold those before purchasing my X-T5. I also bought an X-T2 at the end of last month as a second body. I am not planning to going back to Sony but I am considering getting a dedicated bird photography camera and lens be it modern Canon, Nikon or perhaps OM because I have experienced how AF can miss on Fuji sometimes particularly on wildlife. I love Fujifilm and I will still stick with the system for other type of photography because I love their dials experience and lenses are great. I am highly inclined in getting this lens, problem is in my country I can't rent gear and Fujifilm is not very popular so if I buy it and doesn't convince me it will be hard to sell. I might instead wait to see how comes that rumored XF 500mm f/5.6 at the end of the year and save for it.
I very recently 'upgraded' from x-t5 to x-h2s for wildlife with this lens: If you're shooting jumpy birds, insects etc then the h2s shoots 40fps & pre-shot & a fast cfexpress card clears the buffer super quick, whereas the x-t5 is rather sluggish in comparison... But I'm not parting with my x-t5 - It's now my high-res concert, events, landscape & portrait body.
If youre happy with the X-S10, id say go for it! It is a big lens though, so id go for a baseplate for your camera to give it a better grip. Just seems like unnessesary spending to upgrade a camera just for the lens (unless youre in the market to upgrade ofc). Try it out at your local photo store, and see if you like it! Cheers for watching!
Do you plan on keeping this lens and this setup? I had the H2S and the tracking for birds gave me a lot of trouble. I still have the 150-600 and I think it is a very good lens. I enjoy it as much as I enjoyed the Sony 200-600. But Fuji's autofocus gave me trouble. I am considering picking up the H2S to own again. Because I really like Fuji for everything else. But for wildlife I am not sure if Fuji will improve af tracking with firmware in time, because tracking helps a lot with small birds.
Hey there MOTOJendays - This is a long answer; Just got back from the Okavango delta where I did try photographing small birds, mostly for identification (A Jamesons Firefinch in this particular case). The AF hunted a lot. To be fair, the small bird was in and around the grass, making the AF task all the more difficult, but in the few open patches, I certainly expected more of it! Now, ive only had the lens for 4 months, and still learning new things about it. Love the reach! and when things are out in the open, it focus well enough, but sometimes struggles with the smaller birds which is really annoying. So im torn if I should keep the setup. One thing about the XH2S is that the flippy screen is wobbly, or slightly loose. Cant really identify any loose screws, but I dont like that. Everything else about the camera I think is super, its just when I find something that seems like poor build quality, it makes me sceptical. Im not married to any camera system or setup, since theyre all great anyway. I love the Fuji for the compact size, making travel a breeze with less weight, so theres that. As per now, the only thing ill change is the XT5. If the flippy screen issue turns out to be a factory fault and fixable ill fix it, and get an XH2 as my second camera. If this is a real issue, I might go back to Sony, and keep to a much more minimal setup due to bigger size of full frame lenses. The struggle is real, hehe...
@@DanielBryn I appreciate the thorough response! I can't say I've yet to run into quality issues with Fuji personally. On my X-T4 I've had for a while the flip screen is still like new. Just some worn paint on bottom corners from use. I've decided to get me another H2S. Because the 150-600 is just that good for me. It's lighter than the Sony 200-600 and the results I get out of it almost make the af inconsistencies alone worth it for me. I had little time to test H2S, when I did have it all I did was use bird tracking. After I had to return it, I was told that the af works better with bird tracking turned off. And using X-T4 which doesn't have bird tracking confirmed that. Which is rough because the H2S tracking worked fine for human tracking just fine. Which I'm hoping Fuji improves with firmware for birds. Sony tracking is great. And the 200-600 is pretty awesome as well. But the Fuji 150-600 is just as good in my experience and it's lighter so my arms thank me from carrying it for hours. I do hope Fuji can work out for you in the end. There's not enough Fuji shooters around here. And all I see is Sony shooters which is understandable since their tracking is easier to trust. Even if I were to get a Sony 200-600 again I would still keep my Fuji because the experience is just way more enjoyable for me for all types of photography, except when I miss focus on birds haha.
@@MOTOJendays I'm using the 150-600 on a gripped XT3 and I LOVE the lens - so much fun to use. I am grateful for the white "plastic" exterior and rubber rings for one - way comfier in extreme hot/cold scenarios vs the other black red badgers. Light weight, super sharp, perfectly damped zoom/manual focus rings, buttery aperture. I wish all the red badges felt like it TBH - each has their own feel and not always good. It is hard to track small birds but my hit rate is starting to go up. Basically I use high speed burst, AF-C mode 4 "suddenly appearing objects". OIS is off. Shutter speed is 1/1000-1/2000. Single point AF box, centered, a notch or two up from the smallest box unless I have stronger light. I typically shoot wide open unless I have the headroom and let auto ISO do its thing (Manual shutter, Electronic, I don't care). For perched birds, people, or other slower subjects, I sometimes turn OIS back on and try 1/125 - 1/500. If they sit still long enough I can usually get a ringer. What people don't always get is that, at 900+mm equivalent, f/8 is giving you a minimal and not always enough depth of field - hence getting closer to the subject will always be the key. On my camera, when it misses, it seems more likely to back focus. It also tends to back focus when birds are staring right at me, so I've missed some cool shots. AF seems more consistent when they are sideways to my lens. I have learned that OIS tends to get in the way and needs to be off, and that higher shutter speeds are real important if you have to track at all. It does hunt a little depending on foliage but, being parfocal, I find it is usually better to try to find the subject zoomed out, and then punch in. Once you are in the ball park, the lens will get there. Also in LR "enhance details" has worked very well up to ISO 12800 on certain OK-lit shots, but obviously the lower the ISO the better, typically. I'd love to play with an XH2S sometime, but I have to be honest when I say that face/eye and subject tracking is, for the most part, just another feature I bet I'd be shutting off, for the most part. Even if the camera tracked well, I'd be fighting to try to keep the subject centered, so as not to lose it. At that point, panning / shutter / IBIS+OIS could be causing problems too.
I am planning to buy long telephoto for shooting in Africa. However I am not convinced if this lens can handle low light situation when shooting early morning or evening. How this worked for you ?
Well, for Fuji you dont have that many other options if you want to get really close (and not blow your budget, maybe). Ive got some good ones in both mornings and afternoons where I set the ISO as high as 3200, sometimes even 6400. Then use lightrooms denoise feature which is great. It wont be as good as other faster telelenses, but on that note you probably have to spend 10x the money, so unless youre a pro, id say this is good when you pair it with the denoise features of various softwares out there. If in doubt about this, go out with any camera and lens, shoot with ISO 6400 and import and test the feature to make a better desicion. In any case, youll have a blast in Africa regardless of lens and camera choice. Hope this helps.
What settings do you use if you don't mind me asking, for this lens at least, because I think I'm just really trash and most of the time my imagines don't come out as sharp as I see people pictures that have this lens, I also started around last year but it's more of a hobby so I haven't been able to use it as much, I just started to go in my backyard and try to take pictures of just anything to try and get better
Hey Jaime, thanks for your question, id be happy to elaborate. But first; when I started using this myself, it took some time getting used to. There are a few things to keep in mind with superlong telelenses. Double the shutterspeed compared to the focal range. IE: if youre using it at 600mm, then you should have a shutterspeed of 1/1200 of a second to freeze motion. Rather bump up the ISO, because your can easily denoise the photo in lightroom after (i made a video about that also). In any case, takes some time getting used to, just make sure you set your shutter fast enough to get sharp images. Hope this helps! Have a good day and thanks for watching!
How do you think it will works for surfing photography? That means shooting people far away from where you are on beach. Also i still in doubt about h2s or h2 for this one . Nice review too tyvm
Hey - Then you need a long lens, and im sure this will do the trick! If youre already on the fuji system it makes sense to get this one for the longest possible reach and the newest tech. Surfing photos sounds cool btw!
I love it when a 'reviewer' says this lens works well hand-held because it's light, but it feels 'plasticky' & feels like it would break easily; when the only part of this lens that feels 'plasticky' is the len hood, which most of us consider to be a consumable to be replaced after being bashed & scraped on rocks, barnacles etc for a couple of years... And, has anyone actually managed to physically break one yet?
I looked at the 200mm at some point, but decided to go for the vey much cheaper, much more versetile 150-600mm. 200mm is fast and sharp ive read, but its also very bulky and all that. Would be cool to try it, but my take; Id go for versatility. Cheers!
Thanks. Reason for my question is that I have a great opportunity to by myself a second hand 200 f2. Going on safari in a few months from now. First time I am going to shoot with Fuji. Sold my canon 5D incl 70-200 2.8, and had great experience with that combo for wild life (at normal distance) under low light conditions. I trust the 200 F2 would be comparable with what I had. This 150-600 is a complete different lens, that I am now also interested in after seeing your video. Now the question is, if I can only buy one for the moment, which should I pick. Only a decision I can make but all ideas are very much appreciated. Zoom in to 200-300mm: how is the bokeh? Still good? Thanks again.
@@MarcelKosten hi, did you finally chosen your lens (either 200 or 150-600?). I have similar doubt that in low light situation (morning or evening shooting) the zoom will not be perfect.
@@enzo007v2 I bought the 200mm and took it on safari, and I have no regrets. The lens is razor-sharp, with beautiful bokeh and rich colors. Super fast. It’s perfect for photographing large animals, and it also works great for smaller birds nearby. I didn’t use the extender during the entire trip-completely forgot it came with the lens! But because it’s so sharp, it was easy to zoom in and crop the photos, which still delivered excellent results with the X-T5 body. If you’re focused on bird photography, the 150-600mm might be the better option. But for a typical safari where you can usually get pretty close to the animals, the 200mm is ideal. And the f/2.0 aperture delivers unmatched results. For me that was the reason to go for this lens and not the range at the end, as I am not a bird photographer. Hope it helps and good luck with your choice.
@@MarcelKosten I am photographing long time but never wildlife. Recently I start living in Zanzibar and plan to be on safari every month and shooting animals often. I am looking for good option to my current range of lenses which are primes and zooms up to 140mm. As I have no experience I know that low light situation is common, therefore o thought about 150-400. But maybe it is enough to attached 1.4 TC (1 stop lighting up) or 2.0 TC (2 stops lighting up) to my 55-140 f2.8. What would you recommend ?
Now that im getting used to this beast of a lens I think its really great apart from the AF issue mentioned! Are you debating getting this one? Let me know!
Just got myself one, still being shipped but I believe it will do great with my XH2. :)
No AF issues here… have had it for more than a year now, using it regularly… great lens, use it with the X-H2S as well, but works well on a X-T3 also…
So a little update, I already have the lens for around a month and I am really surprised by the performance. I was even testing this lens at f/8 on 40Mpx X-H2 and the noise looks like ISO 3200-6400. Great lens, although the build quality is honestly pathetic.
@@michalsiegel6717 so, because it is lightweight it is built poorly? If it was built as the 100-400 it would’ve weighed around 2.5 kg, and then you would’ve complained about the heft… it’s all compromises - and the lens works well, even after many months and much use
@@Mortenthorpe-DK Stop making things up. I wouldn't complain about weight because 2.5-4kg is normal for wildlife lens. For example Sigma 150-600 Sport for Canon EF. Not even mentioning fast white Canon primes. Weight belongs to wildlife, that's how it is. You can't make fast long telephoto being tiny and light. The only think I didn't take the 100-400 over this lens was the optical output which I tested in person. The new 150-600 just handles the big resolution sensor better. However if the lens were at least optically same I would sacrifice the reach and go for the 100-400 just because the built quality. ;) And no, it is not built poorly because it is lightweight. It is lightweight because it is built poorly. I like the optical output but I don't trust it enough.
Great review of this lens. I appreciate how forward and thorough you are with these. Also your wildlife photos never cease to amaze me, thanks Daniel!
Thanks Carl, always appreciated. Its also so much more fun to show the photos in a video as opposed to Instagram. Something ive been thinking about lately. seems rather dead on that platform for pure photos. This was made a little rough as planning, filming and editing has been more of a challenge than first anticipated in those 40+ degrees celcius. + our aircon is buggered. Working with what we have, hey?!
Quite technical - but happy to see all those lovely surroundings.
Thanks neighbor, glad you liked it!
I’ll set the lens to auto aperture but have the camera in manual mode. This lets me use the front dial for aperture, which I find more convenient than the ring on the lens. Really liked your review, great photos!
Tha ks a bunch, and cheers for watching. Appreciate it! Having so much fun with the lens. Its great overall!
Yes, would love to know more about travelling in Africa for wildlife photography. We are hoping to visit in Nov to Dec but don’t know where to go. The choice is huge. I’m thinking about Botswana with some travel on river with a photography guiding company.
Hey Stuart! You are right, there are so many places to choose from. Just got back from Moremi game reserve after a few days of extremely lucky and great sightings. We are talking African painted dogs, lions, elephants etc etc to name a few. Great spot as well! River photography is great, just bring a tripod with an adjustable head for maximum creative output and to be ready when the action happens. You dont want to go tired waiting for a shot only to put down the camera and then boom, the shot happens unable to capture it. Cheers for watching, I apprecaite it!
Loved this! Your images are stunning, Dan! I’ve been thinking about getting this lens, but the slow aperture has kept me away so far. Did you think it was a limitation in your test? Your skills are pro level, and I think you’d make mind-blowing images with any lens and camera setup. I’m an amateur/enthusiast and I find it really useful to have a lot of light through the lens as I learn wildlife photography. Would you recommend this lens to newbies like me? Just subbed to your channel. Great content!
Thanks a bunch - ya, it is on the slower side, hence the more affordable price as well though. At dusk and dawn it has its limitations, but on that note, lightrooms AI denoise feature is amazing, and I can shoot fast shutterspeeds at ISO 6400 and get the images I want. Its all about being where the action is and practice a lot, and youll get cool images with any setup. It is however an impressing lens at 600mm which is about 900mm fullframe equivalent, so you get really close.
I love this lens - just gorgeous images. I shoot portraits with it as well, and in that capacity, it can be insanely awesome. You want that white paint / plastic over magnesium frame. The black red badge lenses are black metal (which also can chip off), which can burn you in the summer and freeze you in the winter (the aperture/focus rings are metal, not rubber). This lens may be long, but it balances beautifully and is a joy to use. In fact, I think it is the best of the current "superzoom" crop overall.
I agree! 🙂
The more I use it, the more I like it to be fair. Much has happened since this video was made, and Ive got so much stuff captured using it. Cant speak for all brands superzooms, but wow... Fuji nailed this one! Agree on the metal ones gettin hot, and the plasticy feel doesnt bother me. It was just if I had to put a finger on something! Cheers for watching!
@@DanielBryn It is a lens you need to get used too, and when you spend time with it, it delivers perfection. I have shot pictures of Saturn‘s rings with this lens. ❤
@@guillandanthony711 thats incredible! Where can I see these photos?!
@@DanielBryn I can send you a raw file if you wish. 😊 I don‘t post them online. They are not that great, but it shows how powerful this lens is.
Did you bring your 50-140mm on this trip? Im doing a similar trip and am considering buying one to fit between my 16-55 and 100-400 + TC. Thanks and looking forward to more videos.
Cheers, and no. I only brought this long zoom. The more I use it, the more I like it. For filming in particular!
Hi Daniel! Great video. I’d be really interested to learn how you have both your H2s and XT-5 setup/programmed for wildlife photography and videography. (I really wish there was a combined mammal & bird autofocus tracking!)
Hey Dan, thank you! Short and sweet, I have the preprogram dials on the XH2 for all of that. Its really easy to set up, and with the flick of a switch you can change between modes. One for bird, and one for mammals for example. Might do a video about how to set this up later, and if I do, what else might be interesting to know? Cheers for watching!
Love your videos! Looking forward to my trip to Namibia early next year. Thank you for the recommendation on Bushlore, I've decided to go with them.
Expect a smooth and happy trip!
Good choice, what model did you go for? We just had our vehicle serviced in Kasane. Great service as always! Did you book your camps yet also?
@@DanielBryn Thank you friend, My choice is HilC2 - Toyota Hilux （with Camping & Safari Equipment）, yes we are booking the campsite now ( Quivertree Forest Rest , SESRIEM OSHANA CAMPSITE , Spitzkoppe campsite and Etosha park inside and outside camp . ) It will be our first camping trip😅😉
@@BenjaminHillA You will absolutely LOVE it there. Good choice on Spitzkoppe, the landscape is amazing! And Sesriem I think has a cafe with the famous apple pie you must try.
@@DanielBryn thanks friend! I will try it. My English is not good. I need to pause and subtitles to watch your video.😄😄but I like it!
@@DanielBryn I love wildlife photography and I have four nights in Etosha, might be Okaukuejo , Halali and Onguma Tamboti Campsite( out side the park,near the east gate) .could you give me some suggestions? mang thanks.
hello thanks for the complete video. I got the Xt3 with this lens and im struggling to have good photos
Hey there - how are you struggling to get good photos?
@@DanielBryn the picture are always blurry. I m amateur so i try différent settings but still.
Do you use correct shutter speed? You must remember your shutter speed must be twice the focal length you use so if you use 600mm your shutter speed should be no less than 1200/sec@chrisdan8139
@@arturaszaleskis8907 that sums it up nicely, thanks my friend!
@@arturaszaleskis8907 im between the 2000 and 1000 fir the shutter speed
Nice review dude. As well as a great wildlife lens, this would be amazing for surf photography/videography because F8 is not really as much of an issue. Plus, you're right about Lightroom Classic doing an amazing job of enhancing images. Since I've been using it with my 70-300, the images have definitely kicked up a notch in detail.
You're right on the button there - I've been using mine for shooting surfing here, in Cornwall, since the first day I put my x-t5 on it; and I'll be doing a fair amount of 120fps video now that I've got my shiny new x-h2s' custom modes sorted {:0)
Is the IQ better than the 70-300? I currently have the 70-300/XH2S combo and find the IQ a little underwhelming but its a really convenient set up. Thinking about the 150-600 but worried about f8 as I'll need to run a high SS during winter light. Is it sharp wide open? Just an enthusiast taking photos of surfing.
@@peterjackhandy cool man! On the X-T4 I have the 1.29 crop mode set along with the 1.4 with the 70-300, so it gives more than 800mm full frame equivalent of view for video. I guess the X-H2S has the same feature right?
@@wh909 I've never used the 150-600, but it does look like a great lens and there have been a quite a few photographers/videographers saying it has great image quality, particularly on the 26mp sensor cameras. Unless you're shooting in low light, F8 doesn't matter for surfing because you'll be using it in daylight most of the time.
Also, try using the denoise feature in Lightroom Classic because it definitely enhances the images 👍
Question for your next video:
Moremi vs. Chobe
Which one would you choose for a first time visit to Botswana?
Youre asking a tough question there. Ill go with Moremi, or rather the area outside Moremi. Khwai community. Its got everything. Though Chobe is amazing with the ammount of elephants by the river, not to mention big herds of buffaloes in the thousands. Tough one, but still Moremi (Khwai)
Beast of a lens, great images and glad you're enjoying your travels my man!
Quite literally, cheers buddy its pretty special! And welcome back on the tube, now get moving, hey
@@DanielBryn On it mate, well this channel is going to be like what I post mainly for fun, but I've got big plans for a second channel I plan on launching on my birthday next May, which I'm super excited about!
@@CraigPitts ya its a good idea to separate niches - same as me then. Why the long wait?
@@DanielBryn It needs six months of planning and prep so when I launch I have a bank of content to roll out and also I want to be a bit strategic with it as I hope it'll finally lead to me being location independent. Plus launching it on my birthday with the backstory of the channel will be cool
@@CraigPittssounds like a plan. Ah yes, the sweet life of location independancy! Best of luck, look forward to checking it out
Thanks for the video, are the photos shown done with the X-T5 or all of them with X-H2?
Have you also tried 100-400? I wonder how they compare.
Hey there, most of the photos were done with the XT5. I tried the 100-400 a long time ago, but I couldnt say which is better. This however is a very versatile lens for a good price! Thanks for watching
@@DanielBryn will you recommend this lens instead of 100-400 with 1.4 teleconverter?
Autofocus should be priority number 1 for Fujifilm to be competitive and please its clients...
It would be cool if they could get that tracking AF work in a way that makes sense, yeah! Cheers for popping by the channel
@@DanielBryn did both of you tried the different
AF-C Custom Settings? many fuji users, me included, who struggled with the fuji AF didnt knew about this settings and it makes a huge difference :)
@@SN4YZE im not sure to be fair, what settings would that be? I can say that i didnt have the latest firmware though, and bird photography isnt my main thing w the lens. Af on mammals worked like a charm most of the time. But you might have a point; might be user error as is often the case
@@DanielBryn In the AF/MF Settings Menue there is on page one "AF-C Custom Settings" where you can set speed and tracking sensitivity manually or with some presets for sports, animals, motorsports, etc
@@DanielBryn You can set autofocus custom setting, where you tell the camera to prioritize focusing on the closest thing or the thing in the middle or a combination of the two. you can also set tracking sensitivity to ignore all obstacles when something is either closest or in the center of the frame. Depending on the situation and setting you chose the fuji AF can be lightning fast and almost never fail. These settings will also be saved onto the c1-c7 settings on your X-HS2, so it will remember those focus settings for certain situations.
Hei Daniel thx for this and so many great videos but my question is about local lengths. I'm planning a safari with my Nikon Z6ii. Now in previous videos you said that the 100-400 was the best focal length for safari and that's all one would need but now you've got the 150-600 so I'm just wondering which one you truly recommend. Though I will be taking photos I want to make more video. So would you recommend the 100-400 Nikon S with maybe a 1.4 converter or the 180-600. Ps I actually like the 60-600 Sigma focal length best but Sigma hasn't got a Nikon mount yet. Until our paths gross again enjoy living the great life 🦁
Thank you very much - and yes, that was indeed said. My best answer to this would be that you make it work with whatever you have. That said, the 100-400 was another system and fullframe with more megapixels, thus more flex to crop in.
an up to 400 will serve you very well! longer lenses are generally bigger also, which is something I noticed about this one. Now I get all excited and maybe say this or that is the best, simply because I get so enthusiastic about being out there, and getting the images I get. I could have just as easily said it about a 100-400, and I have tried the fuji 100-400 also.
At the end of the day, no matter the lens, if you can zoom anywhere from 100, up to 400, youll have a blast and get nice images. Its about being where the action happens. So that is what I truly recommend; just go out there, like you are going to, and work with what you have. 100-400 with the converter is plenty enough.
Thanks for watching, and hope this helps ~Daniel
@@DanielBryn Hi again, well I use to have the Sigma 120-300 2.8 on my then D4 and bought it over the 150-600 because of its 2.8 but then my focus was photography. and also had not 1 but 2 1.4 converters and they both broke and I found the 300 was just to short, but I got many great photos as I share the same believe use what you have and make it work. I guess I was just thrown my your previous comments about the 100-400 and thought it might work better with a converter as its way lighter than the 120-300 but I guess when one start out with a converter in mind your focal length is to short. So now its between selling my Nikon Z6ii and go with a Sony and the Sigma 60-600 as I want to focus on video and will be loosing to on many close opportunities or keeping it and go with the Nikon 180-600 although on Mirrorless you can now switch over to DX and that will make the lighter but more expensive 100-400 with a 1.4 converter a 840 if I'm not mistaken. There is just no perfect lens but I'm trying to make the best decision possible.
For what your wildlife photo and stock video needs would you go back to the 100-400 if you did not have the Sony A1 or stick to the 150-600 range.
Always awesome content! What do you think of Mana Pools? It's my dream self drive safari destination. I've been camping in Etosha, South Luangwa, Kwhai, Central Kalahari, but Mana Pools seems very special. I know every visit makes a place feel different, but for you how does Mana Pools compare to other national parks?
I loved it there, it ranks now as one of the favourites for sure. The light is magical, it has wide open areas between large trees and is just a pretty special place there. Unfortunately we didnt do south Luangwa; what was that like?
Its hard to compare Mana to other places, just like Central Kalahari is hard to compare. Its just different, and thats what I love about Africa. The bush isnt just the bush. Every place has its own charm, feel and look.
South Luangwa was great to us, for such a reknown park, not too many cars when we went, amazing wildlife, interesting driving as well in some parts, and good walking safari. If you have the opportunity, definitely give it a go. Zambia in general is excellent, as you have seen a bit.
Thanks for your feel about Mana Pools, I hope I will get a visit as good as yours when I get there. Any tips on the areas are welcome.
Your CKGR for dummies video was literally what made us go there last year, so definitely worth you suffering through the video editing 😊.
For your next vid on wildlife video/photography best places, maybe camping scenery/animal visits would be a cool criteria to consider as well 👍
@@daviddupuy6104 Awesome, thank you for the feedback and comments! Ya, we really want to go visit South Luangwa next time. I think Zambia still is a bit off the radar for most people, but with such potential, and now that African Parks has taken over management of Kafue, I think it will (hopefully) pick up and max its potential.
So glad to hear my video inspired you to go to CKGR - it is truly a magical place, and I must admit it is my favourite, simply because of the remoteness and the feeling of truly being out in a wild place. One of the few left.
Look forward to hearing about your journey! Happy travels
I think if I were to go to Africa, I’d bring this lens, my x-H2S, and my GFx100S with the GF250 f4… that lens is a beast!
I can imagine! and its a really great combo w the xh2s. No experience with the gfx100s though
Great review. I wish the AF was better for tracking birds but that is mostly the actual camera's fault.
Have you used it after the latest firmware update? I really want to get this lens for my X-T5 but I am really doubting Fuji as good for bird photography.
Ill be honest and say your doubts may be right. But its still a great lens for the price, so what you have to consider is; are you willing to pay all that much more just to get the incrementally better af on lets say a Sony? Or maybe it is a bit better than incremental, but still. I havent tested with the new firmware unfortunately, but ive read its a good upgrade, and when the nail it, I think id stick with fuji and practice with what I have. Thanks for watching by the way. Hope this gave you some perspective to consider.
@@DanielBryn I actually had Sony gear (a6000 and a5000) and sold those before purchasing my X-T5. I also bought an X-T2 at the end of last month as a second body.
I am not planning to going back to Sony but I am considering getting a dedicated bird photography camera and lens be it modern Canon, Nikon or perhaps OM because I have experienced how AF can miss on Fuji sometimes particularly on wildlife.
I love Fujifilm and I will still stick with the system for other type of photography because I love their dials experience and lenses are great.
I am highly inclined in getting this lens, problem is in my country I can't rent gear and Fujifilm is not very popular so if I buy it and doesn't convince me it will be hard to sell.
I might instead wait to see how comes that rumored XF 500mm f/5.6 at the end of the year and save for it.
I very recently 'upgraded' from x-t5 to x-h2s for wildlife with this lens:
If you're shooting jumpy birds, insects etc then the h2s shoots 40fps & pre-shot & a fast cfexpress card clears the buffer super quick, whereas the x-t5 is rather sluggish in comparison...
But I'm not parting with my x-t5 - It's now my high-res concert, events, landscape & portrait body.
Would you recommend this lens with an X-S10 or should I upgrade my camera first?
If youre happy with the X-S10, id say go for it! It is a big lens though, so id go for a baseplate for your camera to give it a better grip. Just seems like unnessesary spending to upgrade a camera just for the lens (unless youre in the market to upgrade ofc). Try it out at your local photo store, and see if you like it! Cheers for watching!
Great great video, I really like that setup and defently agree with!! Enjoy Mana Pools🤠
Ya, its really super for wildlife 100%. You know because you tried it hey?! Loved Mana, what a magical place
Flott video, vurderer det selv.
Takker - den er fin den altså!
I hear a Norwegian accent... am I right?
Thanks for a good review!
Det stemmer! Arendal, born and raised. Takker!
Do you plan on keeping this lens and this setup? I had the H2S and the tracking for birds gave me a lot of trouble. I still have the 150-600 and I think it is a very good lens. I enjoy it as much as I enjoyed the Sony 200-600. But Fuji's autofocus gave me trouble. I am considering picking up the H2S to own again. Because I really like Fuji for everything else. But for wildlife I am not sure if Fuji will improve af tracking with firmware in time, because tracking helps a lot with small birds.
Hey there MOTOJendays - This is a long answer; Just got back from the Okavango delta where I did try photographing small birds, mostly for identification (A Jamesons Firefinch in this particular case). The AF hunted a lot. To be fair, the small bird was in and around the grass, making the AF task all the more difficult, but in the few open patches, I certainly expected more of it!
Now, ive only had the lens for 4 months, and still learning new things about it. Love the reach! and when things are out in the open, it focus well enough, but sometimes struggles with the smaller birds which is really annoying.
So im torn if I should keep the setup. One thing about the XH2S is that the flippy screen is wobbly, or slightly loose. Cant really identify any loose screws, but I dont like that. Everything else about the camera I think is super, its just when I find something that seems like poor build quality, it makes me sceptical.
Im not married to any camera system or setup, since theyre all great anyway. I love the Fuji for the compact size, making travel a breeze with less weight, so theres that. As per now, the only thing ill change is the XT5. If the flippy screen issue turns out to be a factory fault and fixable ill fix it, and get an XH2 as my second camera. If this is a real issue, I might go back to Sony, and keep to a much more minimal setup due to bigger size of full frame lenses.
The struggle is real, hehe...
@@DanielBryn I appreciate the thorough response! I can't say I've yet to run into quality issues with Fuji personally. On my X-T4 I've had for a while the flip screen is still like new. Just some worn paint on bottom corners from use.
I've decided to get me another H2S. Because the 150-600 is just that good for me. It's lighter than the Sony 200-600 and the results I get out of it almost make the af inconsistencies alone worth it for me. I had little time to test H2S, when I did have it all I did was use bird tracking. After I had to return it, I was told that the af works better with bird tracking turned off. And using X-T4 which doesn't have bird tracking confirmed that. Which is rough because the H2S tracking worked fine for human tracking just fine. Which I'm hoping Fuji improves with firmware for birds. Sony tracking is great. And the 200-600 is pretty awesome as well. But the Fuji 150-600 is just as good in my experience and it's lighter so my arms thank me from carrying it for hours.
I do hope Fuji can work out for you in the end. There's not enough Fuji shooters around here. And all I see is Sony shooters which is understandable since their tracking is easier to trust. Even if I were to get a Sony 200-600 again I would still keep my Fuji because the experience is just way more enjoyable for me for all types of photography, except when I miss focus on birds haha.
@@MOTOJendays I'm using the 150-600 on a gripped XT3 and I LOVE the lens - so much fun to use. I am grateful for the white "plastic" exterior and rubber rings for one - way comfier in extreme hot/cold scenarios vs the other black red badgers. Light weight, super sharp, perfectly damped zoom/manual focus rings, buttery aperture. I wish all the red badges felt like it TBH - each has their own feel and not always good. It is hard to track small birds but my hit rate is starting to go up. Basically I use high speed burst, AF-C mode 4 "suddenly appearing objects". OIS is off. Shutter speed is 1/1000-1/2000. Single point AF box, centered, a notch or two up from the smallest box unless I have stronger light. I typically shoot wide open unless I have the headroom and let auto ISO do its thing (Manual shutter, Electronic, I don't care). For perched birds, people, or other slower subjects, I sometimes turn OIS back on and try 1/125 - 1/500. If they sit still long enough I can usually get a ringer. What people don't always get is that, at 900+mm equivalent, f/8 is giving you a minimal and not always enough depth of field - hence getting closer to the subject will always be the key.
On my camera, when it misses, it seems more likely to back focus. It also tends to back focus when birds are staring right at me, so I've missed some cool shots. AF seems more consistent when they are sideways to my lens. I have learned that OIS tends to get in the way and needs to be off, and that higher shutter speeds are real important if you have to track at all. It does hunt a little depending on foliage but, being parfocal, I find it is usually better to try to find the subject zoomed out, and then punch in. Once you are in the ball park, the lens will get there.
Also in LR "enhance details" has worked very well up to ISO 12800 on certain OK-lit shots, but obviously the lower the ISO the better, typically.
I'd love to play with an XH2S sometime, but I have to be honest when I say that face/eye and subject tracking is, for the most part, just another feature I bet I'd be shutting off, for the most part. Even if the camera tracked well, I'd be fighting to try to keep the subject centered, so as not to lose it. At that point, panning / shutter / IBIS+OIS could be causing problems too.
I would note one caveat, it is a magnesium frame lens with a plastic outer shell, not strictly plastic.
Thanks for the clarification - I noted the plasticy feel of it. In any case, I dig it.
I am planning to buy long telephoto for shooting in Africa. However I am not convinced if this lens can handle low light situation when shooting early morning or evening. How this worked for you ?
Well, for Fuji you dont have that many other options if you want to get really close (and not blow your budget, maybe). Ive got some good ones in both mornings and afternoons where I set the ISO as high as 3200, sometimes even 6400. Then use lightrooms denoise feature which is great. It wont be as good as other faster telelenses, but on that note you probably have to spend 10x the money, so unless youre a pro, id say this is good when you pair it with the denoise features of various softwares out there. If in doubt about this, go out with any camera and lens, shoot with ISO 6400 and import and test the feature to make a better desicion. In any case, youll have a blast in Africa regardless of lens and camera choice. Hope this helps.
What settings do you use if you don't mind me asking, for this lens at least, because I think I'm just really trash and most of the time my imagines don't come out as sharp as I see people pictures that have this lens, I also started around last year but it's more of a hobby so I haven't been able to use it as much, I just started to go in my backyard and try to take pictures of just anything to try and get better
Hey Jaime, thanks for your question, id be happy to elaborate. But first; when I started using this myself, it took some time getting used to. There are a few things to keep in mind with superlong telelenses. Double the shutterspeed compared to the focal range. IE: if youre using it at 600mm, then you should have a shutterspeed of 1/1200 of a second to freeze motion. Rather bump up the ISO, because your can easily denoise the photo in lightroom after (i made a video about that also).
In any case, takes some time getting used to, just make sure you set your shutter fast enough to get sharp images. Hope this helps! Have a good day and thanks for watching!
How do you think it will works for surfing photography? That means shooting people far away from where you are on beach. Also i still in doubt about h2s or h2 for this one . Nice review too tyvm
Hey - Then you need a long lens, and im sure this will do the trick! If youre already on the fuji system it makes sense to get this one for the longest possible reach and the newest tech. Surfing photos sounds cool btw!
I use this lens on my x-t5 for surfing in the UK (Cornwall) & I can tell you it absolutely does the business; hand-held, all day.
I love it when a 'reviewer' says this lens works well hand-held because it's light, but it feels 'plasticky' & feels like it would break easily; when the only part of this lens that feels 'plasticky' is the len hood, which most of us consider to be a consumable to be replaced after being bashed & scraped on rocks, barnacles etc for a couple of years...
And, has anyone actually managed to physically break one yet?
idk, you tell me Peter. Have you tried this lens?
I tried with my xt3 but the performance is not so good maybe I need to get xh2s
How is it not good on the XT3 exactly? That would be interesting to know
I want to by xh2s camera. But, I heard, watched bad things about subject tracking. What do you thing about this.
I dont use subject tracking very often, but if thats your thing, maybe try your luck with another brand. For me, the xh2s is excellent! Great camera
How would this lens compare to 200 f2 with extender on? Anyone has experience with that?
I looked at the 200mm at some point, but decided to go for the vey much cheaper, much more versetile 150-600mm. 200mm is fast and sharp ive read, but its also very bulky and all that. Would be cool to try it, but my take; Id go for versatility. Cheers!
Thanks. Reason for my question is that I have a great opportunity to by myself a second hand 200 f2. Going on safari in a few months from now. First time I am going to shoot with Fuji. Sold my canon 5D incl 70-200 2.8, and had great experience with that combo for wild life (at normal distance) under low light conditions. I trust the 200 F2 would be comparable with what I had. This 150-600 is a complete different lens, that I am now also interested in after seeing your video. Now the question is, if I can only buy one for the moment, which should I pick. Only a decision I can make but all ideas are very much appreciated. Zoom in to 200-300mm: how is the bokeh? Still good? Thanks again.
@@MarcelKosten hi, did you finally chosen your lens (either 200 or 150-600?). I have similar doubt that in low light situation (morning or evening shooting) the zoom will not be perfect.
@@enzo007v2 I bought the 200mm and took it on safari, and I have no regrets. The lens is razor-sharp, with beautiful bokeh and rich colors. Super fast. It’s perfect for photographing large animals, and it also works great for smaller birds nearby. I didn’t use the extender during the entire trip-completely forgot it came with the lens! But because it’s so sharp, it was easy to zoom in and crop the photos, which still delivered excellent results with the X-T5 body. If you’re focused on bird photography, the 150-600mm might be the better option. But for a typical safari where you can usually get pretty close to the animals, the 200mm is ideal. And the f/2.0 aperture delivers unmatched results. For me that was the reason to go for this lens and not the range at the end, as I am not a bird photographer. Hope it helps and good luck with your choice.
@@MarcelKosten I am photographing long time but never wildlife. Recently I start living in Zanzibar and plan to be on safari every month and shooting animals often. I am looking for good option to my current range of lenses which are primes and zooms up to 140mm. As I have no experience I know that low light situation is common, therefore o thought about 150-400. But maybe it is enough to attached 1.4 TC (1 stop lighting up) or 2.0 TC (2 stops lighting up) to my 55-140 f2.8.
What would you recommend ?