How to do a Sway Back Adjustment with No Center Back Seam
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2024
- This week on Fit Tip Tuesday I'm sharing a pattern adjustment that I used to fit the pattern with a student in my Tee Fit class last weekend. If you have a sway back, it's likely the fabric of your top can puddle in the small of your back. This happens because the fabric of your top is hanging from your shoulders and does not follow the curve of your sway back. Because the fabric is "skipping the curve" it ends up being too long at CB. If you have a center back seam, it's easy to slash the pattern horizontally from CB to side seam and overlap the CB edge to get rid of the excess length. If your pattern doesn't have a CB seam... The first step of the adjustment is the same. Today I'm going to show you now to straighten the CB seam after removing the excess ease... Spoiler Alert! We're not going to straighten the seam by just trimming off the shape created by overlapping the CB seam!
00:00 Intro and Upcoming Zoom Classes (The last of the year!)
03:19 The magic of a small in-person class
05:00 How to do a Sway Back Adjustment with a CB seam
08:46 How to Adjust a Top Pattern Doesn't have a CB Seam
16:52 Outro
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Wow! This makes so much sense, but I would never have figured it out by myself. Thank you!
You are so welcome! ...and thank you for fitting along with me
I had to watch the video three times, but i finally understood what you did there! Amazing! Thank you!
Thanks so much! If you have a significant amount of fabric to remove, here's another video showing that you can split up what you take out in multiple slash lines. Check this out! ruclips.net/video/tgVWuTVVozY/видео.html and thank you for fitting along with me
So happy this helps!! Thanks for fitting along with me
Hi there Jenn - so pleased that my Beatrice Collective friend pointed me here today because my T-shirt toile is puddling in the back. Thank you for your clear and knowledgeable explanation. I thought I would mention a tip that I learned from working in architecture - roll your paper right side out 🙂! That way it doesn't keep curling up on the table and you have to weight it down. Best wishes.
Welcome to my Channel and thank you to your Beatrice Collective friend for sharing! Thanks for the Tip about rolling pattern paper out & for fitting along with me
Dynamite tutorial! First I was blown away with the explaination of a sway back. I'm familiar with sway back as I have to make this adjustment too, but never realized it was the curve of my lower back causing it! It never occured to me! Then to see you demonstrate where that length went really made it all click to together. Thanks for your awesome work!
Thanks so much! I'm happy to hear that this helps you ...and thank you for following along with me.
Hello Jen, I'm pleased to share with you a success I've had with a Tester for a top I'm working on by using your Sway Back Adjustment method shown in your video. I am using a commercial pattern that I want to adjust. Prior to utilising your method for the sway back adjustment, my Tester had an FBA of 1", and a Round Back Adjustment of 1" (my tester version 5 LOL!). The Round Back adjustment resulted in the need for a sway back adjustment of 1 ½", so I used your method (with trepidation), and it worked. My bodice back had a yoke so my adjustment related to the bodice below the yoke. Thank you, thank you , for your easy to follow instructions. I will email you with the same comment, so I can send you an image of my adjusted pattern. I''m ready now to apply these adjustment to my final garment.
I am so happy to hear!!! Thank you for sharing your experience :) and thank you for fitting along with me. I'm excited to see your finished garment!
Very helpful!!!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
Hi Jenn, I'm binge watching your tutorials with "aha" moments every 30 seconds.This sway back worked great for my knit bodice! I took only 12 mm out and it already made a significant difference. Thanks for your great work and eagerness to share! BTW, If you ever wondered - turns out your channel has some magical properties - I managed to go down 2 (pattern) sizes in one afternoon ;) Best diet ever.
This makes my heart so happy!! I'm so happy this worked for you & Thank you for following along with me!
Thank you! I also
Used your tutorial for the swayback pants adjustment and it worked out nicely. My first time with these adjustments. When my grandmother taught me to sew when I was a kid she always said I had a swayback but I never listened 😖🤣
So happy to hear! I think that's so sweet that your grandmother taught you to sew. (I might not have listened to everything my Mom told me when she was teaching me how to sew either :))))
You are such a wonderful teacher. I understand so much better after you explain things. TFS
Thank you for the kind words! So happy this helps... thanks for following along with me
Yes, that extra fabric just sits on my rear end like a shelf, and I'm foreved adjusting the back by that little tug at the back hem. Can't wait to try out your alteration method!
:) Yay... Check out this update before you try it out! ruclips.net/video/DCJ1gJxum2w/видео.html
Thank you!
You're welcome!
I'm excited too! I have such a need for this information. I have a sway back that requires me to always wear a belt. It's often uncomfortable and I end up looking for sweatpants. Excited!!!! 🙂 🎈
Happy to hear! Thanks for following along with me
Did you make this for meeeee? How thoughtful!!! ❤❤❤❤
Of course I did :)))))))
Thank you thank you thank you for both videos; this one and your student's success story adjustment video. I am an experienced sewist and have struggled with this adjustment for years. I've been able to apply the sway back adj on a woven pattern by adding a center back seam with success; however, I don't always want to add a back seam especially on a tshirt. I follow you on RUclips and have gained so much knowledge and confidence from your instructions; wish I lived closer to you (Missoula, MT) so I could take an in person class😢
I'm so happy to hear this helps you!! ...I'm sorry you don't live closer to me... but you do live close to one of my favorite sewing shops - The Confident Stitch :) ...maybe I'll get to come out and teach a workshop there someday! Thanks for fitting along with me
Oh this has been a big problem for me, I can’t wait to try this! Thank you!
Yay, I hope it helps!! Thanks for fitting along with me
Hi Jennifer,
So I have quite a lot to take out of my back… 3 inches. I couldn’t make this work doing just the top half as you did, so I tried doing this with the bottom half as someone else suggested. It was too much and made the pattern really skewed. My next step was to split the 3 inch amount between the top half and the bottom half of the pattern. This seemed to work pretty well.
One question, how would you handle the center back bottom edge with such an angle to the side edge? If i can figure out how to do this, i will add pictures.
I can’t figure out how to add pictures to my reply… maybe I can email them to you. I really love your channel and very much appreciate all the wonderful content you put out there. I’ve learned so much from you.
Brilliant, thank you so much for sharing. I will use this!
Wonderful! So happy this helps you, thanks for fitting along with me
Wow that's a fantastic demonstration! Thank you so much.
Thanks so much!
Wow, thank you very much. Totally new to me, but looks a lot easier than the method I usually use.
Glad it was helpful! and thanks for fitting along with me!
I have a lot of patterns I need to Re-fix! But gladly! Thanks so much!
So happy to hear this will help you and your patterns! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks for this! Will be testing it out pronto :-). People should keep in mind though that 90% of the perceived need for a sway back adjustment is really caused by not enough room in the hips instead of a real swayback..
My Pleasure! ...and that is true, if you make a top that has enough ease to not get caught on your hips, the fabric will fall instead of puddling at the small of your back. But if you are making a fitted garment, the back length may be too long regardless of whether you have a sway back or not. This technique can be used to remove excess length even if you don't have a sway back :)
Maybe, maybe not. I am very petite, not much over 5 feet. I don't have a sway back, but often have to remove the length here because my waist isn't where the pattern's is. It doesn't matter how big I make the hips. I think people just react negatively to the term sway back. Maybe it would be better accepted if termed the Center Back length adjustment! People wouldn't like something called a pot belly adjustment, when that type of adjustment is addressing, well, a pot belly.😊
Thank you so much! I need a sway back adjustment with almost all patterns, and sometimes you really want to avoid that center back seam. I'm definitely going to try this out next time!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me!
Thanks Jen! 😁👍💖
You are so welcome! I'm so excited that you're drafting your bodice along with me!!!
Thank you Julie. I learned using the fold up and grade out to the side method. This is cleaner and it looks like it will fit better.
So happy to hear! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you.
This adjustment looks great. 🤗
Glad you like it! and thanks for fitting along with me
Just perfect and great!!!!! Thank you so much!!!!!!
Thanks so much! ..and thanks for fitting along with me
I am going to try this!
... I was going to send you this link so you could compare! Happy you found it! Thanks for fitting along with me
Very interesting concept Jen and looks do-able. I am hopeful you get time to test it out as Diane suggested, to shift the bottom up. Thanks for all you do.
...:) Me too!
Hey Jennifer,
Thanks for the wonderful tutorial. You said towards the end that you we’re going to share an explanation of how to combine this adjustment with a round back adjustment, but I couldn’t find anything in your channel. Did you cover this somewhere? Could you give a link?
In fact, if you have a Video about doing round back adjustments without a center back seam, I would be grateful for that. Right now I am doing a test garment adding a back yoke and doing the adjustment there. I will see how that comes out, but it would be nice not to require the yoke. I have quite a bit of curvature, at least 1.5“. Thanks!
:) Thank so much... and I did do a tutorial showing how to do both adjustments... Here you go! ruclips.net/user/live3dVg788kW_s (you can do the high round back adjustment to the back yoke piece)... Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks for your great content !!
My pleasure... and thank you so much!
@@JSternDesigns You are welcome. Have you considered a Kofi account? I'm so happy to contribute, but I would prefer a private method.
Just used this for a t-shirt pattern. Works great! I did have to reshape the hem curve a bit because the pattern had a straight hem. Thanks!
I'm so happy to hear! Thanks for fitting along with me
Mine has ended up looking the same as the original…. i messed up on the top…😬
Thanks
Thank you so much!!
Exactly the same adjustment is possible by marking down the CB line from the neck the amount of adjustment required then pivoting the shoulder and neck line down to meet the mark. This doesn't require remarking the CB darts etc. etc. and is much quicker as it can be done using one copy of the pattern.
Thanks for sharing! I love it that there's so many ways to get the same thing done!
Is this different from just redrawing a new straight CB or foldline from the neck edge down to the hem?
Yes because if you alter from the neck down you are increasing the width of the back and back neck when you really need to only increase the width on the back pattern just below the high hip. I finally got round to testing the theory and increased just the back at the side seam and the garment fits a treat! @@katejones9046
❤❤
:) Thanks for fitting along with me!
Great tutorial! I have a question about my particular fit. I often find I get wrinkling in the mid back starting at the bottom of the arm hole. Is this a different adjustment? I could remove 3” from that spot (tapered to 1” under the arm pit) on a princess seam button down I’m currently working on.
:) Can you send me a photo of what's going on so I can see it. Then I can suggest how to fix (jsterndesigns37@gmail.com) Thanks for watching
Hi thanks for the tutorial. Really helpful. What if my back length is 2 inches shorter then the front? Do I follow this same technique?
Thanks... Yes you can use this technique... but keep in mind that the back length does not need to be the same as the front length. If the longer back length drapes nicely from our shoulders to hem, you can just shorten the hem at the bottom (start at CB and blend back to the original length at the side seam. Hope this helps Thanks for fitting along with me
I've seen many tutorials for sway back adjustments, seams like this one will work best. I have one short question, does it make sence to make sway back adjustment and full seat adjustment in the same piece dress pattern? I fiel the necessity to do it but dont know if it make sence? Thanks for the lovely tutorials, i follow your instructions most of the time 😊they are very helpfull!
If you have to remove fabric at the small of your back with this adjustment. You may have to add length for a full seat... but down lower past your waistline... to add length where you need it. Picking the size that measures your full hip should take care of the ease you need. Let me know if this makes sense!
Clearly the pattern piece you came up with looks different than if you had used the method of simply using a ruler and drawing a new straight center back seam (or CB fold line). What is the practical difference in the end between the two if you sewed up two garments using each of the two different methods?
I was teaching a class a couple years ago and one of my students showed me how she does the Sway Back adjustment ... then straightened out the cb seam so she could cut out her top on the fold. This can work to a point, but straightening out the cb edge takes back some of the benefits of the adjustment. That's why I researched how to do it so you can still cut on the fold but keep all the benefits of the adjustments. If you have a significant curve to your lower back, this adjustment works ok.. but if you add a cb seam and keep the curved shape that's created by the wedge adjustment, your top will fit much better because it's shaped to you. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Hi Jen, thanks for this video. How do you deal with this adjustment in combination with round back? It gets confusing when the sway back is combined with round back
That's a great question! Join me for Subscriber Q & A this week LIVE at 1:00 pm edt and I'll show you how. If you can't be there live, no worries, you can catch the replay anytime! Thanks for fitting along with me.
Thank you so much for this. A question: When you draw in the new shoulder seam from the original shoulder point to the mid-point of the rotated shoulder seam, it is more important that it land on the rotated shoulder seam, or more important that it is the correct distance down from from the original neck point? Thank you!
My pleasure! When I draw in the adjusted shoulder, I connect the original tip of the shoulder to the new (lower) position of the shoulder at the neckline. The neckline itself is also lowered a like amount. I hope that answers your question! Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns Great! I'm almost there. I used a 3/4" drop at the waistline, but the shoulder at the neckline is only 9/16 from original to new (lower) neckline. Should I make it 3/4" drop at the neckline or use the 9/16" that I got. I double checked my waist drop amount and it is 3/4".Thanks again. I love your channel!
Do you think this will work in the reverse? I am thinking of trying the prominent shoulder blade adjustment where I am adding a wedge to the back. I will report back on my experiment:)
I have a different tutorial for that! Here you go ruclips.net/video/oMr-fgpLoP4/видео.html Thanks for fitting along with me
Will this also help give more definition to a shirt? I was having trouble with a dress that wouldn't work with my curves and it was just straight up and down. It looked like I was wearing a box. Fish eye darts helped but am curious if swayback can help also.
That's a great question. Doing a sway back adjustment just shortened the back of your shirt from shoulder to the small of your back. It makes the fabric hang straight down vs. puddling in the small of your back. To give your tops more shape, fisheye darts + a shaped side seam (curving in at your waistline) a good way to go. You can also make tops that are shaped with princess seams to create a more curvy shape. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Great tutorial!
Would this technique work to alter a bias cut dress I bought secondhand? I have a sway back so fabric is pulling at the lower back, and the neckline is too deep at the front. I have plenty of ease at the armhole so I was thinking of pinching and taking up the shoulder seams. There are sleeves so I may need to gather the top of the sleeve to ease it back into the armhole. What do you think? Thanks in advance.
Yes... Take the sleeves off and take out the shoulder seams. Pin the shoulder seams back together where it sits better on you. (The front/back shoulders may need to be adjusted differently). Pulling excess length out of bias can help the entire garment to drape better and stop the pulling at the lower back ... you're also pulling the garment up, so it's likely you'll have a little more ease because there's likely more width lower! Good Luck & Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns I meant the fabric is pooling (sorry for being unclear). Thanks for replying to my comment!
Hi Jen, How could I adapt this method to a bias cut woven dress (one piece back, no seam)? I'm making the Sicily Slip Dress version B (high back vs. the spaghetti strap view A). My toiles all indicate a need for a sway back adjustment of at least an inch. Would I simply split the pattern in half, do the adjustment as you've demonstrated, and create the mirror version other half? Would I split the adjustment of an inch at the waist (half above and half below?) Thanks!
I'm just starting to get my Bias Game up to speed... But I do think you can use this method to pull out the excess vertical ease for a sway back. An inch is not a huge amount, so I think you can remove it in one slash line... After adjusting half the pattern... put it on a folded piece of pattern paper (aligning cf/cb with the fold) and cut it out to get the full front and back. Hope this helps, thanks for watching
Is this adjustment needed if the bottom edge is rolling up? I get fabric pooling on some garments, but others drape nicely, and the edge rolls up. My hip measurement usually falls a size larger than my waist and bust with most of the increase being at the back.
If your top is draping nicely, but the edge rolls up, you can shorten the hem where it's rolling to make it a length that hangs straight (easier to do than this adjustment)... If you don't need to pick up puddling fabric go the easy way! Thanks for watching
I was wondering if this is the right way to correct a sway back as the back isn't actually shorter - the garment puffs in the waist at the back because the back hip is wider than the front and the garment is hanging up on it. When a garment has princess seams or a CB seam, the darts are increased at the waist to make it narrower and the hip darts is opened to the hem to give the rear more room. Would an adjusment at the side seam to make the waist narrower and the hips wider not work? A better shape may be achieved.
That's an interesting question. When you've got a significantly smaller measurement close to a significantly larger measurement the fabric has to do the same thing... I think you have a good plan of taking in darts at the waist and releasing them at the hem. After doing that, if the fabric looks like it could benefit from a vertical snug... you can pull it up at the shoulder and neckline... I think that's something I would play with to see if it helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Where on the back do you put in the adjustment? above the waist? At what point do you make the adjustment? So many inches down the back? Thank you!
If you just have a little bit to remove, pinch it out at the small of your back (just below your waistline). If you have a more significant amount of vertical length to remove, you can split it up and along the cb edge between the small of your back and the base of the back neckline. Here's a tutorial showing multiple slash and overlap adjustments: ruclips.net/video/tgVWuTVVozY/видео.html Hope this helps, Thanks for watching
Would this same method work on a woven? I am trying to adjust a dress bodice back that has a waist seam, back darts and no center seam.
Yes, you can use this technique on a woven shirt pattern too! This works great unless you have very prominent high round back curve. This shape really benefits from a center back seam that becomes shaped after a high round back adjustment that slashes and spreads the cb seam. Thanks for fitting along with me
Oh my gosh this is the exact problem I’m having but I’m working with a tube top dress. I have a beautiful fabric that has a design and I don’t want a back seam running through it but I need a curved back center seam. But if I do the this then I’m also worried about distorting the design and since it’s a tube top dress, I don’t think this method works. Do you know how on earth I could solve this issue? I’ve been struggling for over a month now!
When you're working with limited seams like a tube, it does limit how you can adjust the pattern... If you send me photos of the pattern pieces, maybe I can make a suggestion... jsterndesigns37@gmail.com :)
Would it work to shift the bottom of the pattern up to fix a sway back? Seems like it would be easier to adjust the bottom.
That's interesting... I'm going to have to test it and see! Thanks for pointing that out & for following along with me :)
That’s what I wondered also, thanks for asking the question…
Is dis adjustment for sleeveless top or with sleeves?
Yes, you can use this method for tops with or without sleeves. Thanks for watching
Is there anyway if doing a swayback adjustment on ready to wear? I have stop I live but it bunches up alot in back it has a pleat in the back but no center seam
You can try taking of the collar or neckline finish, then trim off the excess vertical length along the back neckline and the shoulder seam at the neckline. Blend back to the original position of the shoulder seam at the tip of the shoulder. Then put the collar or neckline finish back on. It should still fit because you're removing some of the edge. You may need to take the collar in at CB a little bit. Hope this helps!
So by moving the neckline down the hemline does not have to be adjusted?
The neckline is lowered by overlapping the pattern at CB. The hem is not affected (everything below the adjustment stays the same). Hope this helps!
Is the under pattern with or without the sway back adjustment?
I used the original pattern (before making the adjustment) to reshape the adjusted pattern above the adjustment. After making the adjustment, I put it on top of the original pattern, lining up the edges below the adjustment (CF, Hem & Side Seam). Then I traced the original pattern from the side seam, up the armhole to the tip of the shoulder. Putting these parts back allows you to straighten the center back seam above the adjustment without losing the affect of the adjustment. From the tip of the shoulder, I connected the original shoulder to the lower adjusted shoulder and back neckline. :) Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns It makes complete sense. Thank-you for your alteration engineering. The only part I was unsure of was the original pattern as the base. When I played with it yesterday the pivot point on the side seam played a role. I will be trying it with a woven today. I can see how much this will help the back shoulder.
Good morning mam.its veena from india.i would like to join ur classe.could you tell me the procedure.thank you
Hi Veena, Here's a link to my upcoming workshop page (via zoom). They are all scheduled on Eastern Time Zones, I'm not sure what the difference is in time between us... If they are in the middle of the night for you, I do recording them and send links to the recordings that you can watch when it's convenient. jsterndesigns.com/product-tag/upcoming-workshops/ Let me know if you have any questions about these classes. :)
@@JSternDesigns mam I need fitting classes for one piece dress
Great video as always . Love your tutorials. Quick question : given the end result shows a drop of the shoulder and back neck distance should we do the alteration straight on these areas and not even bother cutting through the waist and overlapping?
:) You can! Although, I think it's helpful to adjust the pattern where you need the adjustment. In the past, I've tested adjusted the pattern as shown in this video for a different issue and making note of where it changed along the edges. Then I tried just adjusting the edges. In some cases the results were not as good. I did a tutorial on this topic.... Here it is :) ruclips.net/video/CNhJ7beAxsU/видео.html
Thanks
Thank you Diane!!