This is a complex adjustment, at least for my brain. If it wasn't for people like Alexandra and others who work and have worked in the industry, I would never figure out how to do most adjustments. There are some highly skilled people in this industry. I find it fascinating. I wish the actual craftspeople would get more recognition than just the big-name designers.
This is brilliant! You have explained it so well. Thank you for taking the time to show everything so clearly. I thought I would never understand how to remove the excess and keep the pattern aligned! Amazing.
Paying attention! "To find the across the across back point, use the back seam length, and divide by 4!!!" I learned this in your Managing the Dart and Dart Volume video, and you were spot on! Why do I know? LOL I still have my favourite blouse that is now 28 years old... It still fits pretty well but certainly would need an FBA. I took most of this fabulous blouse apart to make a pattern. I thought the across back point was about half way down the armhole, so that is what I measured for. After hearing your formula in your previous video I went back and, by golly, it was actually an inch and a half lower!!!! The widest part of that armhole is just slightly wider than the point I previously chose at 5". Alexandra, today you saved a Velum Tree! Love from Di Vinci
Thank you very much. Excellent tutorial. I've taking classes regarding how to do a swayback adjustment and bought tons of sewing books. Neither the classes nor the sewing books gave me the information that you demonstrated in this video.
Alethia, thanks for your comment. Each of these methods produce a slightly different result so you'll have to choose the best method for your needs. The sway back is probably one of the most often misdiagnosed fitting issues so experiment a little to see what works best for you.
Thank you X 1,000. I’ve been trying to find a way to understand this alteration and all the books lack your thorough descriptions. I’m so happy 😃, time to try them out.
You are such a good teacher. Easy to follow and such a calm presentation. Also real nice that you give measurements in inches and centimeters. Thank you so much, for sharing your knowledge. I will apply this technique straight away as I always have little excess some 5 cm above my back waist. All the best.
Fantastic tutorial. Very clear and simple. Long but a good step by step process. Would be great to have some very basic diagrams as a summary of the steps. I'll give it a try. I need to add 2cm typically to the front but end up with too much at the back if also extended. Now I know why my dresses tend to have bulk at the back. I thought it was my bottom but I have a sway back. Great to be diagnosed and will aim to correct future tops and dresses.
I wish I had seen this a few years ago. Your teaching style is clear, concise and carefully explains what you are doing. I would benefit from alterations classes taught by you.
Question for you, if there needs to be a slopping shoulder or gapping neck adjustment, do you complete those adjustments first before doing the sway back? I'm curious if there is a particular order in which to do adjustments? Would you consider doing a video that talks about if you have to do certain adjustments which are best to do first? Thanks in advance.
I would like to know this too. What if the pattern needs a sloping shoulder adjustment *and* a swayback adjustment? Can we adjust the shoulder to the correct position after the swayback, or does that 'undo' the swayback adjustment?
This is a great tutorial thank you ! I am having trouble understanding why on the second example it’s possible to straighten the back and cut on fold, but in the second you can’t? I couldn’t discern any difference in the patterns ? I am obviously missing something! Thanks again Alex, Bridget
So happy to find this very detailed explanation. Thanks a million My question is. My back is 15” while my front neck to waist is 21”, a whole 6 “ . Can I still use any of these methods? Pleasse, I am looking forward to an early response thank you❤
3 года назад
This is great! Thanks. If you have an A dress, how do you make this adjustment?
Brilliant! Just what I needed as I have a swayback. Luckily I have not cut my fabric yet as need to do a full bust adjustment. Do you have a video for that too please?
Thank you, and you provided easy to comprehend pictures. With the test garment I constructed, I discovered that I needed a fish-eye adjustment that tapered to not quite zero to the sides, I'm going to use your method to adjust my paper pattern. My garment is a looser shirt-tunic/dress, without back darts (nor princess seams) the front looks great...the back did not.
What a great instructional video. I have what I thought is a great fitting book that shows me your version 2 but doesn't show how to true up the pattern at the centre to place it on the fold. It says I need to add a centre seam, which I really don't want. Thanks.
Her name is Alexandra Morgan of InHousePatterns.com. She has patterns and drafting classes (both in person and online) available. Her online classes are excellent.
Hi Laura! "Fullbobbin" has already answered on my behalf but I thank you for your compliment! You can learn more about me by visiting inhousepatterns.com/ (pdf sewing patterns) or www.inhousepatternsstudio.com/ (online pattern making and fitting courses).
Excellent video! For the second method, it looks like it's also changing the angle of the shoulder seam. Does this mean you have to increase the slope of the shoulder seam after making the sway back adjustment?
Thank you, I really like the first version with the shoulder hinges. I was having the problem you mentioned in method 2 where the pattern ends up basically the same. My project is a tshirt so I need a dartless method. Thank you for providing this clear alternative! 😁 I do have a question regarding method 3: wouldn't it also be possible to redistribute the width that needs to come out the center back into the dart? So draw the straight back like in method 2 (making it possible again to do without center seam), and then the difference at center back needs to be added to the width of the dart? If so this would be another option for the 'no center back seam' scenario.
Hi, thanks for your detailed explanation. I understood every bit of it and will try it soon. Please just a quick one, if I’m making a full dress to the knee without a joining at the waist, how do you tackle the sway back? Many thanks.
Thank you for this thorough tutorial. I wonder about the redrawn dart in the 3rd example - I thought such a dart should be parallel with the grain line/perpendicular to the hemline? So I would guess to redraw the top half, not the bottom... Can you explain why you did it this way? At any rate I'm very glad you covered the dart as most tutorials don't.
Thanks for your comment! The redrawn dart in that example is parallel to the grain line (which in this case is the CB line). Because of this imperfect method it can no longer be perpendicular to the hem. As I noted before , this is my least favourite method of doing this adjustment but many find they prefer the finished result of this so I added it to the video as an option.
This was a fabulous tutorial! I have never done adjustments of every type and wonder what I might be missing with regards to this: how do I figure out how much to take out in this adjustment. You mentioned you were doing an inch in this tutorial. Is that standard? Is that the typical starting point? I am not sure how much I should take out to start with or how to figure that out...
Hi, you need to grab the fabric on your back and that amount is what you need to take in. I already figured out that part but I was confused about the hem that is not straight anymore after I close the dart. 🙂
Hi Alexandra, I've not been sewing for long and have started my first dress. I found that I have a sway back and was a bit disappointed with the fit. This video was so helpful and I was able to fix the problem. The other issue I have is excess fabric at the nape of my neck. I've tried to find videos to help with this alteration but I'm not sure what that would be called to search for it. I looked at rounded shoulder tutorials, but that seems to be adding more fabric. what would you classify this issue as and how should I go about eliminating it? Thank you for your amazing tutorials.
Hi! I'm so glad you found this video helpful. Here are some resources for the gaping back neckline: inhousepatterns.com/blogs/news/6229370-back-contour-shaping and www.inhousepatternsstudio.com/blog/pattern-fundamentals-three-ways-to-manage-the-back-shoulder-dart
Hi, Thank you for your reply! All these tutorials are so helpful. I'm excited to increase my skills and make clothes that truly fit me well. Best wishes to you and yours this Christmas. xx
Is it possible to take out 2 inches and still make it work? Just wondering... The most I ever took out was 1 inch and was still a little tricky. Still a little bunchy and looks like I need another 1 inch. Thanks!
hi i am indian i am very much interested in sewing i like allur videos very informative . the second method u have shown forsway back adjustment , will rise up the hip line at centre back hamerring the fitting athip pl.reply
vinaya patil that is correct. This isn’t a method I particularly like. I only present it as an option. I would choose one if the other methods to prevent this.
Thank you, yes. The waistline will be perpendicular to the CB line but only to the dart position. The waistline notch position at the side seam will remain in it's original position.
Wonderful video, thank you!! I have just one quick question regarding the final adjustment option. I assume the straight grain still runs parallel to dart center, is that right? Most of my dress patterns have shaped center back seams, so this is my desired option.
Can you show how to do this if it were just a bodice pattern upto the waist for a two piece dress and if the bottom was a gathered skirt. So I am concerned only about the bodice part. My back hem for the bodice seem to hang lower than the front all the time. I thought it was the bust side riding up and increased the center front of the waist hem by 1/4" but it still seemed higher than the back hem when I wore it. So I am assuming I need to so the sway back adjustment for the back and leave the front alone. I do have a curvy figure. I am not sure how to true the bottom hem and waist back dart after the adjustment. Please help!
First I would suggest comparing your CB waist length with that of the pattern, this will give you some idea if it is the front riding up or if it is excess back bodice length. If your front waist is sitting in the correct position, and only the back is too long at CB, this is just a matter of removing the excess length at CB and blending to the side seam of he bodice so they remain matching the front.
I have noticed that when I wear readymade clothes my t shirts will ride longer in the back and I have to pull down the front of the shirt to make it sit right. What does this mean? Is it my posture? I dont know how to correct this. Should I alter my shoulder slope in my patterns, which is a 1" drop from the horizontal line.
This is because ready to wear t-shirts are usually made with the same front and back bodice with only a variation in the necklines. This means the front bodice hasn't been made longer to accommodate the extra length needed to go over the bust, hence the front will hang short and the back will usually have wrinkles at the waist line level.
I recently made a tunic and the front is lower and the back hem line is longer. I also notice that the shoulder seam is not sitting on the center of my shoulder but is atleast 1" beyond the center line of my shoulder. is this a slope issue? when drafting a pattern does the front shoulder slope vary from the back? Really not sure of how to fix this. Please help!
Yes, this likely means you haven’t diagnoses the issue correctly. You may need to correct the balance of the garment on your body. This usually means adding length to the font pattern, which often mean you need to add dart volume or bust fitting.
Alexandra Morgan thanks that’s what I thought. I’ve tried shortening the back length in general but it never seems to be enough. How would front length or dart volume help?
Interestingly when I sew up my bodice using a waist seam and and princess lines it seems to fit fine in the back length. I only have the issue when I try to make a loose fitting tunic style top with no darts etc. the front hangs smoothly but the back fabric pools at the waist even if I release the side seams up past the high hip area. Just don’t know what to fix 😕 you’re videos are super simple to follow so thanks for that.
This is so clearly explained. Thank you. And thanks for such clear audio and thanks for the complete lack of annoying music. It’s such a relief.
Glad you enjoyed it!
This is incredible- so comprehensive unlike other videos on sway back adjustments out there. Thankyou for sharing your expertise
Thank you! I've struggled with this adjustment my entire sewing life 55+ years.
This is a complex adjustment, at least for my brain. If it wasn't for people like Alexandra and others who work and have worked in the industry, I would never figure out how to do most adjustments. There are some highly skilled people in this industry. I find it fascinating. I wish the actual craftspeople would get more recognition than just the big-name designers.
This is brilliant! You have explained it so well. Thank you for taking the time to show everything so clearly. I thought I would never understand how to remove the excess and keep the pattern aligned! Amazing.
Fry Dr hfjjeisheheheeh
Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for. You are an excellent teacher.
Thank you for this video. It's so much easier to understand when you walk through it.
Thank you so much for this tutorial. It’s so well explained and easy to follow, even for a beginner. I feel so empowered!
Paying attention! "To find the across the across back point, use the back seam length, and divide by 4!!!"
I learned this in your Managing the Dart and Dart Volume video, and you were spot on!
Why do I know? LOL I still have my favourite blouse that is now 28 years old... It still fits pretty well
but certainly would need an FBA.
I took most of this fabulous blouse apart to make a pattern. I thought the across back point was about half way down the armhole, so that is what I measured for.
After hearing your formula in your previous video I went back and, by golly, it was actually an inch and a half lower!!!!
The widest part of that armhole is just slightly wider than the point I previously chose at 5".
Alexandra, today you saved a Velum Tree!
Love from Di Vinci
Absolutely stellar video, clear and detailed. THANK YOU
Thank you very much. Excellent tutorial. I've taking classes regarding how to do a swayback adjustment and bought tons of sewing books. Neither the classes nor the sewing books gave me the information that you demonstrated in this video.
Alethia, thanks for your comment. Each of these methods produce a slightly different result so you'll have to choose the best method for your needs. The sway back is probably one of the most often misdiagnosed fitting issues so experiment a little to see what works best for you.
omg, where have you been all of my sway back life? im so late to the party but im trying this this weekend. thanks.
Thank you X 1,000. I’ve been trying to find a way to understand this alteration and all the books lack your thorough descriptions. I’m so happy 😃, time to try them out.
You are such a good teacher. Easy to follow and such a calm presentation. Also real nice that you give measurements in inches and centimeters.
Thank you so much, for sharing your knowledge. I will apply this technique straight away as I always have little excess some 5 cm above my back waist. All the best.
Fantastic tutorial. Very clear and simple. Long but a good step by step process. Would be great to have some very basic diagrams as a summary of the steps. I'll give it a try. I need to add 2cm typically to the front but end up with too much at the back if also extended. Now I know why my dresses tend to have bulk at the back. I thought it was my bottom but I have a sway back. Great to be diagnosed and will aim to correct future tops and dresses.
I wish I had seen this a few years ago. Your teaching style is clear, concise and carefully explains what you are doing. I would benefit from alterations classes taught by you.
This really is excellent, thanks so much Alexandra for taking the time to make this video, it helped me a lot.
Perfect! Just what I needed in regards to swayback adjustments for bodices on fold.
Thank you. Can’t wait to try these different methods
Very clear instruction and visual demonstration. Thank You!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, you are a great instructor!!
Great instructions - thank you Alexandra!
Question for you, if there needs to be a slopping shoulder or gapping neck adjustment, do you complete those adjustments first before doing the sway back? I'm curious if there is a particular order in which to do adjustments? Would you consider doing a video that talks about if you have to do certain adjustments which are best to do first? Thanks in advance.
That would be good to know!
I would like to know this too. What if the pattern needs a sloping shoulder adjustment *and* a swayback adjustment? Can we adjust the shoulder to the correct position after the swayback, or does that 'undo' the swayback adjustment?
Really great video. Thank you!
Most excellent! Thank you so much!
Love! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for a fantastic tutorial.
This is a great tutorial thank you ! I am having trouble understanding why on the second example it’s possible to straighten the back and cut on fold, but in the second you can’t? I couldn’t discern any difference in the patterns ? I am obviously missing something! Thanks again Alex, Bridget
Perfect 👍🏾 this is what I was looking for to fix my pattern
This is just what I needed thanks
Thanks for the detail and I want to knowmore about your book,Fabulous Fit.Thank you.
Fabulous instructions. Thank you
new subbie from nigeria...you are an excellent teacher...tnk u
Thank you VERY much. super helpful
Buenas noches
Es usted una master gracias por su conocimiento
Dios la nendiga
Thanks! I need to make an adjustment on the Belle blouse and this is perfect!
You're welcome!
Thorough, as usual!
Really helpful, thank you! :)
So happy to find this very detailed explanation. Thanks a million
My question is. My back is 15” while my front neck to waist is 21”, a whole 6 “ . Can I still use any of these methods?
Pleasse, I am looking forward to an early response thank you❤
This is great! Thanks. If you have an A dress, how do you make this adjustment?
Brilliant! Just what I needed as I have a swayback. Luckily I have not cut my fabric yet as need to do a full bust adjustment. Do you have a video for that too please?
Thank you!!!
Super helpful!
Thank you, and you provided easy to comprehend pictures.
With the test garment I constructed, I discovered that I needed a fish-eye adjustment that tapered to not quite zero to the sides, I'm going to use your method to adjust my paper pattern. My garment is a looser shirt-tunic/dress, without back darts (nor princess seams) the front looks great...the back did not.
THANK YOU!!
What a great instructional video. I have what I thought is a great fitting book that shows me your version 2 but doesn't show how to true up the pattern at the centre to place it on the fold. It says I need to add a centre seam, which I really don't want. Thanks.
You may want to consider adjusting the garment balance instead. See this video: ruclips.net/video/hU2IYaqKG7k/видео.html
awesome...I have a least 2 inches to adjust. thanks for sharing
Who are you? you are wonderful teacher. Thank you for the tutorial.
Her name is Alexandra Morgan of InHousePatterns.com. She has patterns and drafting classes (both in person and online) available. Her online classes are excellent.
Hi Laura! "Fullbobbin" has already answered on my behalf but I thank you for your compliment! You can learn more about me by visiting inhousepatterns.com/ (pdf sewing patterns) or www.inhousepatternsstudio.com/ (online pattern making and fitting courses).
Thank you
On the last example with the center back seam: would you be able to put a zipper on a seam that curves like that?
It's possible but it would take some special talent to do it well enough to get a professional looking finish.
Excellent video! For the second method, it looks like it's also changing the angle of the shoulder seam. Does this mean you have to increase the slope of the shoulder seam after making the sway back adjustment?
Fantastic
Thank you so much for these explanations! In German it's really hard to find descriptions for swayback adjustment.
Thank you, I really like the first version with the shoulder hinges. I was having the problem you mentioned in method 2 where the pattern ends up basically the same. My project is a tshirt so I need a dartless method. Thank you for providing this clear alternative! 😁
I do have a question regarding method 3: wouldn't it also be possible to redistribute the width that needs to come out the center back into the dart? So draw the straight back like in method 2 (making it possible again to do without center seam), and then the difference at center back needs to be added to the width of the dart? If so this would be another option for the 'no center back seam' scenario.
Hi, thanks for your detailed explanation. I understood every bit of it and will try it soon. Please just a quick one, if I’m making a full dress to the knee without a joining at the waist, how do you tackle the sway back? Many thanks.
You'll find if you add more back hip width you will most likely not have this issue.
Thank you for this thorough tutorial. I wonder about the redrawn dart in the 3rd example - I thought such a dart should be parallel with the grain line/perpendicular to the hemline? So I would guess to redraw the top half, not the bottom... Can you explain why you did it this way? At any rate I'm very glad you covered the dart as most tutorials don't.
Thanks for your comment! The redrawn dart in that example is parallel to the grain line (which in this case is the CB line). Because of this imperfect method it can no longer be perpendicular to the hem. As I noted before , this is my least favourite method of doing this adjustment but many find they prefer the finished result of this so I added it to the video as an option.
Thank you
This was a fabulous tutorial! I have never done adjustments of every type and wonder what I might be missing with regards to this: how do I figure out how much to take out in this adjustment. You mentioned you were doing an inch in this tutorial. Is that standard? Is that the typical starting point? I am not sure how much I should take out to start with or how to figure that out...
Hi, you need to grab the fabric on your back and that amount is what you need to take in. I already figured out that part but I was confused about the hem that is not straight anymore after I close the dart. 🙂
Wonderful tutorial! Thank you for sharing. My question.....because you’ve shorten the center back do you shorten the length on the front?
In this case you do not shorten the front length.
Can you explain how to straighten out the balance lines please after the adjustments
Great video! Is the third method the one I should use for a center back zip?
yes, this will work for a centre back zipper :)
Looks like it. Simplest conversion and she said it's the only one that works with a centre back seam. A lot less altering elsewhere.
this is very beautifullydonebut i have a doubtabout length at back whether it will be reduced at cf
This adjustment does not require a change to the front pattern.
Hi Alexandra, I've not been sewing for long and have started my first dress. I found that I have a sway back and was a bit disappointed with the fit. This video was so helpful and I was able to fix the problem. The other issue I have is excess fabric at the nape of my neck. I've tried to find videos to help with this alteration but I'm not sure what that would be called to search for it. I looked at rounded shoulder tutorials, but that seems to be adding more fabric. what would you classify this issue as and how should I go about eliminating it? Thank you for your amazing tutorials.
Hi! I'm so glad you found this video helpful. Here are some resources for the gaping back neckline: inhousepatterns.com/blogs/news/6229370-back-contour-shaping and www.inhousepatternsstudio.com/blog/pattern-fundamentals-three-ways-to-manage-the-back-shoulder-dart
Hi, Thank you for your reply! All these tutorials are so helpful. I'm excited to increase my skills and make clothes that truly fit me well. Best wishes to you and yours this Christmas. xx
How does a sway back adjustment differ on a shirt with yoke?
Can i seperate the yoke from bodice before making adjustments?
Thanks
What would be considered the maximum amount you can remove from back bodice length with this adjustment? 3cm? 4cm?
Is it possible to take out 2 inches and still make it work? Just wondering... The most I ever took out was 1 inch and was still a little tricky. Still a little bunchy and looks like I need another 1 inch. Thanks!
Is this done at the seam lines or the outline of the pattern?
Chris Boyd always seam lines!
hi i am indian i am very much interested in sewing i like allur videos very informative . the second method u have shown forsway back adjustment , will rise up the hip line at centre back hamerring the fitting athip pl.reply
vinaya patil that is correct. This isn’t a method I particularly like. I only present it as an option. I would choose one if the other methods to prevent this.
Hi, I have bought a pattern that does not come with the markers. Is it possible to make a sway back adjustment?
Thank you so much! I’m pretty new at sewing. So many adjustments to the back, would I make any adjustments to the front? Thank you!!
For this particular adjustment, there are no changes to the front pattern in most cases.
How can I get your book "Fabulous Fit?"
You didn't mention making your waist line perpendicular before readjusting your dart. Your finished examples appear to have done that.
Thank you, yes. The waistline will be perpendicular to the CB line but only to the dart position. The waistline notch position at the side seam will remain in it's original position.
Wonderful video, thank you!! I have just one quick question regarding the final adjustment option. I assume the straight grain still runs parallel to dart center, is that right? Most of my dress patterns have shaped center back seams, so this is my desired option.
Can you show how to do this if it were just a bodice pattern upto the waist for a two piece dress and if the bottom was a gathered skirt. So I am concerned only about the bodice part. My back hem for the bodice seem to hang lower than the front all the time. I thought it was the bust side riding up and increased the center front of the waist hem by 1/4" but it still seemed higher than the back hem when I wore it. So I am assuming I need to so the sway back adjustment for the back and leave the front alone. I do have a curvy figure. I am not sure how to true the bottom hem and waist back dart after the adjustment. Please help!
First I would suggest comparing your CB waist length with that of the pattern, this will give you some idea if it is the front riding up or if it is excess back bodice length. If your front waist is sitting in the correct position, and only the back is too long at CB, this is just a matter of removing the excess length at CB and blending to the side seam of he bodice so they remain matching the front.
Thank you.
I have noticed that when I wear readymade clothes my t shirts will ride longer in the back and I have to pull down the front of the shirt to make it sit right. What does this mean? Is it my posture? I dont know how to correct this. Should I alter my shoulder slope in my patterns, which is a 1" drop from the horizontal line.
This is because ready to wear t-shirts are usually made with the same front and back bodice with only a variation in the necklines. This means the front bodice hasn't been made longer to accommodate the extra length needed to go over the bust, hence the front will hang short and the back will usually have wrinkles at the waist line level.
I recently made a tunic and the front is lower and the back hem line is longer. I also notice that the shoulder seam is not sitting on the center of my shoulder but is atleast 1" beyond the center line of my shoulder. is this a slope issue? when drafting a pattern does the front shoulder slope vary from the back? Really not sure of how to fix this. Please help!
How it works when one has an horizontal fold at the lower part of the buttocks?
Was hoping you would tell something about trousers...
Olga Orde not in this one!
I’ve tried this and find I still need additional adjustment even after 1 inch. Anyone know the limit on this? I have to do 2.5”. Is that two much?
Yes, this likely means you haven’t diagnoses the issue correctly. You may need to correct the balance of the garment on your body. This usually means adding length to the font pattern, which often mean you need to add dart volume or bust fitting.
Alexandra Morgan thanks that’s what I thought. I’ve tried shortening the back length in general but it never seems to be enough. How would front length or dart volume help?
Interestingly when I sew up my bodice using a waist seam and and princess lines it seems to fit fine in the back length. I only have the issue when I try to make a loose fitting tunic style top with no darts etc. the front hangs smoothly but the back fabric pools at the waist even if I release the side seams up past the high hip area. Just don’t know what to fix 😕 you’re videos are super simple to follow so thanks for that.