Great job James. If the tool is not comfy in the hand then the pleasure of using said tool is diminished. Making it work for you is a great way to raise that pleasure level.
yes I talked about that on the other channel. the nuts are normally on the right side of the saw. but I want to see them more so i put them on the Left side.
I've done two different coffee tables on the channel so far. and just last year I did a set of drawers to go underneath a desk. I've also done a long dresser. I have a couple furniture projects coming up.
Great video, I just made a new handle for a big logging crosscut saw and was looking for some guidance on adding some of the flourishes and finer shapes, so I'll give some of what you did in this video a go.
Great video, I like the contour you put onto the handle. I know saw handles are considered ambidextrous, but I'm left handed and I need to alter my grips to my needs. Thanks for the Pax review as well.
Hi there! Do you have any videos on how to build a water wheel? If not, how about making one? ☝️😁 Thanks for the channel, we live offgrid and love all the info on how to go 100% manual. 👍💖
@@WoodByWright Woohoo! I can't wait to see it! 🤞🤓💖 The system had changed the notification bell for your channel and I hadn't been getting an6, I clicked it again. 👍
Every instance is a whole different. I find a coarse rasp is the fastest but leaves the least enjoyable surface. They spoke shave works great as long as you can get into the curvature. But both will need refinement from fine files or card scraper.
Pax saws are about as close as you can get to the legendary saws of 100+ years ago and as an owner and user I’d unreservedly recommend them to anyone. Like Liogier or Auriou rasps, Sorby chisels or vintage Stanley planes they are truly heirloom tools that will work perfectly for as long as someone is there to care for them.
Hi ...can you please do a video of sharpening the veritas crosscut saw..,, I would really appreciate that! Also would you recommend the lie Nielsen crosscut saw over the veritas?
I have done several videos on sharpening crosscut saws. I don't think that exact one but everything would be the same. The Lee Nielsen saw is a great saw and comes with a very nice handle. As to functionality though they will both cut almost exactly the same. The thing with saws is they only work as well as the last person who sharpened them. Everything else is just fit finish and comfort. so you really can't say one is better than another. It all just comes down to personal taste.
James, Have you ever used a speer&jackson? I have a 10" dove tail for less than half of the pax cost and yes it is brass backed, still need to do the same work to the handel. Just a compairson of $ value, just like a set of aldi chisels to a narex set.
Yes. I would put them in a similar class to pax. Their backs are cut rather then folded whick means you have to be more careful with them but they can be very functional.
Mr. Wright, why not get a zip lock plastic bag and let your handle soak over night in your shop made linseed oil? I did that on some of my saw handles. I forced most of the air out to avoid any oxidation of the BLO I used. I even placed the bag in an inch of water in a tub in case of there was any heat build up. Although I did not re-shape the handles. Which I plan to do after this video.
I will do that on antique handel's that are over dry, but in handel's that are only. Few years old it does not allow much more penitration. For the best effort a Vaccume pot will do it the best. And there is no worry with heat build up, there is not enough oxygen in there and too much oil.
I have a old Atkins backed saw inherited but it is miss the back. Any ideas on how to purchase a new back? Haven't had a lot of looking on eBay for cheap saul to harvest from. I am a carpenter/hand tool enthusiast's and like to fix up and use tools that I inherit from family.
You can purchase cut backs from Blackburn toolworks. But if you want a folded back those are a lot harder to find. I've been told that Pax will sell you just one piece or another for saws.
I like the results for the wood handle... I might have taken it a step further and shortened the brass screws a bit so they did not protrude through the nut... The heads of the brass screws are nicely countersunk into the wood, but the screw threads stick out and might catch on things...
You know that when you’re rechaping the handle , you don’t need to open and close your mouth to help with your filing 🤣😂😁😜🇨🇦👏👏👏 very nice work and love the handle 👍🏼👏👏
OK.....Just say "I want it pretty" and most of us will agree..you can get comfort anywhere 🤣🤣🤣 LOVE IT. And I know you had fun reshaping it also...WIN all the way around
Any thoughts on building a saw from the ground up? A back tenon saw, I mean.. I've thought about doing that a lot recently. It seems like of all the tools, it would be the easiest to do. But I've only seen one guy do it so far.
I have been wanting to do that for a few years. The problem is finding the parts. Folded backs are difficult to come by. I've got a few people who said they can get them for me but I'm on back order right now. Someday.
I own a Pax saw too. The boss if a nice person, I talked to her and she agreed to sell me some of their pax saws without a handle with a discount. I could even ask for custom dimensions.
HI James ... I like how you made that saw yours! I went to that link out of curiosity but they seem to have removed that closed-handle Pax crosscut saw from their line-up ... you must be one of those influencers! Cheers from the North Country! Farmer John
@@WoodByWright The saws I saw with the nice saw nuts were in the $180 range for dovetail saws. Now, when available, you are going past Lie-Nielsen pricing for dovetail saws. Most of what I see online from Amazon and Taytools are the saws with the crappy brass plated screws, and of course, the clunky handles/totes.
@@WoodByWright Sorry ... I checked again and I guess that a page 2 didn't load into my phone but appears on my tablet ... lots of closed handle Pax saws there, although mostly out of stock ... must be popular! Cheers
@@WoodByWright ordered a couple of cans of your soft wax and recently used it on a sewing cart I made out of maple ply... worked wonderfully! Thank you! One question: I used 0000 steel wool but it was leaving gray residue everywhere, especially in the joints. Do you rinse your steel wool? Degreaser? It all buffed out but it was worrisome.
I generally only use the steel wool on smooth flat surfaces. Otherwise the wax actually breaks apart the steel and you get tiny pieces of steel everywhere and cracks and grain structure. For surfaces like that I generally use either brown paper bag or a shop rag.
Gotta say, usually your videos get an automatic 'like' even before I finish watching them..but the work-holding on this project was terrible. How many times does it need to slip before you accept you need a better way of gripping?
@@WoodByWright 🤣 Maybe, as a restorer and carver, it just makes me edgy..I'm not a safety preacher, just a practical one, and I fear damaging the wood, the tool, or my bench, warrants a re-think of my approach! Love your vids.. Stay safe!
I feel you. Most of the time I like things to be really solid but when working on delicate pieces with a rasp I find not cranking them down all the way just gives me a little bit more flexibility that if I accidentally put too much force into it the piece will move threads and gouging into deeply. But if I'm carving or working with sharp tools then usually I keep the work as tight as possible. But in that case I don't have a whole lot of problem of putting too much force into things.
Saws: lddy.no/vf2q
File types Live: ruclips.net/video/yMsyAgQRu3M/видео.html
Short: ruclips.net/video/UpeLOif5kFE/видео.html
I did the same thing to a disston from the 50’s 60’s with a beech Handel. It works great
Great job James. If the tool is not comfy in the hand then the pleasure of using said tool is diminished. Making it work for you is a great way to raise that pleasure level.
Most of the sounds of handtool woodworking are so nice. But there are a few that are just painful on the ears.
Really nice video and handle!
So true!
I’m sure you’ve put the saw nuts on the wrong way round James! Handle looks just as ergonomic and comfortable as my vintage saws now, great job 👍🏽
yes I talked about that on the other channel. the nuts are normally on the right side of the saw. but I want to see them more so i put them on the Left side.
As always, I appreciate the content you produce. Have a wonderful day James
You're my favourite woodworking channel James. Would you do some small furniture projects e.g. coffee tables, set of small draws etc?
I've done two different coffee tables on the channel so far. and just last year I did a set of drawers to go underneath a desk. I've also done a long dresser. I have a couple furniture projects coming up.
@@WoodByWright love how you have time to reply. I will be scrolling through your comprehensive catalogue straight away. Thanks again James
Great video, I just made a new handle for a big logging crosscut saw and was looking for some guidance on adding some of the flourishes and finer shapes, so I'll give some of what you did in this video a go.
Great video, I like the contour you put onto the handle. I know saw handles are considered ambidextrous, but I'm left handed and I need to alter my grips to my needs. Thanks for the Pax review as well.
Beautiful work, James! It looks much better now! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Hi there! Do you have any videos on how to build a water wheel? If not, how about making one? ☝️😁
Thanks for the channel, we live offgrid and love all the info on how to go 100% manual. 👍💖
Now that would be a fun project. I have never had the chance to do that.
@@WoodByWright Woohoo! I can't wait to see it! 🤞🤓💖
The system had changed the notification bell for your channel and I hadn't been getting an6, I clicked it again. 👍
Nice work James, but how do you choose all filing and when to use a spokeshave to form something or is it just personal choice?
Every instance is a whole different. I find a coarse rasp is the fastest but leaves the least enjoyable surface. They spoke shave works great as long as you can get into the curvature. But both will need refinement from fine files or card scraper.
I did the same to my Crown. Nice job. Thanks for the vids.
Pax saws are about as close as you can get to the legendary saws of 100+ years ago and as an owner and user I’d unreservedly recommend them to anyone. Like Liogier or Auriou rasps, Sorby chisels or vintage Stanley planes they are truly heirloom tools that will work perfectly for as long as someone is there to care for them.
Hi ...can you please do a video of sharpening the veritas crosscut saw..,, I would really appreciate that! Also would you recommend the lie Nielsen crosscut saw over the veritas?
I have done several videos on sharpening crosscut saws. I don't think that exact one but everything would be the same. The Lee Nielsen saw is a great saw and comes with a very nice handle. As to functionality though they will both cut almost exactly the same. The thing with saws is they only work as well as the last person who sharpened them. Everything else is just fit finish and comfort. so you really can't say one is better than another. It all just comes down to personal taste.
James,
Have you ever used a speer&jackson? I have a 10" dove tail for less than half of the pax cost and yes it is brass backed, still need to do the same work to the handel. Just a compairson of $ value, just like a set of aldi chisels to a narex set.
Yes. I would put them in a similar class to pax. Their backs are cut rather then folded whick means you have to be more careful with them but they can be very functional.
Mr. Wright, why not get a zip lock plastic bag and let your handle soak over night in your shop made linseed oil?
I did that on some of my saw handles. I forced most of the air out to avoid any oxidation of the BLO I used.
I even placed the bag in an inch of water in a tub in case of there was any heat build up.
Although I did not re-shape the handles. Which I plan to do after this video.
I will do that on antique handel's that are over dry, but in handel's that are only. Few years old it does not allow much more penitration. For the best effort a Vaccume pot will do it the best. And there is no worry with heat build up, there is not enough oxygen in there and too much oil.
I have a old Atkins backed saw inherited but it is miss the back. Any ideas on how to purchase a new back? Haven't had a lot of looking on eBay for cheap saul to harvest from. I am a carpenter/hand tool enthusiast's and like to fix up and use tools that I inherit from family.
You can purchase cut backs from Blackburn toolworks. But if you want a folded back those are a lot harder to find. I've been told that Pax will sell you just one piece or another for saws.
I like the results for the wood handle... I might have taken it a step further and shortened the brass screws a bit so they did not protrude through the nut... The heads of the brass screws are nicely countersunk into the wood, but the screw threads stick out and might catch on things...
that would be a good to file them down a bit.
You know that when you’re rechaping the handle , you don’t need to open and close your mouth to help with your filing 🤣😂😁😜🇨🇦👏👏👏 very nice work and love the handle 👍🏼👏👏
Oh but that's my secret method. Don't tell people.
@@WoodByWright too late you rote it down here 😜😁🤣😂 Have a great day James 🇨🇦
OK.....Just say "I want it pretty" and most of us will agree..you can get comfort anywhere 🤣🤣🤣 LOVE IT. And I know you had fun reshaping it also...WIN all the way around
Very nice James!
That’s a beauty now! Nice
Oh, hell yeah!
I always enjoy your videos.
Any thoughts on building a saw from the ground up? A back tenon saw, I mean.. I've thought about doing that a lot recently. It seems like of all the tools, it would be the easiest to do. But I've only seen one guy do it so far.
I have been wanting to do that for a few years. The problem is finding the parts. Folded backs are difficult to come by. I've got a few people who said they can get them for me but I'm on back order right now. Someday.
I own a Pax saw too. The boss if a nice person, I talked to her and she agreed to sell me some of their pax saws without a handle with a discount. I could even ask for custom dimensions.
oh that is a cool Idea. I might have to get in contact with them.
@@WoodByWright They might hate me if everyone start to do the same, haha
I think you would really like a pattern makers vice.
One of these days! Man I would love one!
Very cool video
HI James ... I like how you made that saw yours! I went to that link out of curiosity but they seem to have removed that closed-handle Pax crosscut saw from their line-up ... you must be one of those influencers! Cheers from the North Country! Farmer John
Interesting I will have to go look. thanks for letting me know.
@@WoodByWright The saws I saw with the nice saw nuts were in the $180 range for dovetail saws. Now, when available, you are going past Lie-Nielsen pricing for dovetail saws.
Most of what I see online from Amazon and Taytools are the saws with the crappy brass plated screws, and of course, the clunky handles/totes.
@@WoodByWright Sorry ... I checked again and I guess that a page 2 didn't load into my phone but appears on my tablet ... lots of closed handle Pax saws there, although mostly out of stock ... must be popular! Cheers
Plywood saw handle
Who makes a good hand mitrebox saw
Start many people who make those big beasts. The one that comes to mind though is bad axe tool works
Bonitas era mientas
I was about to like this video until that closing joke 😂
only the best!
I'm sure that the jokes are getting worse
Looks like you have a handle on things
The obvious first choice is reshaping your hand instead of the saw handle... skin is softer than wood, easier to cut 🤣🧠
I should try that next time!
@@WoodByWright ordered a couple of cans of your soft wax and recently used it on a sewing cart I made out of maple ply... worked wonderfully! Thank you!
One question: I used 0000 steel wool but it was leaving gray residue everywhere, especially in the joints. Do you rinse your steel wool? Degreaser? It all buffed out but it was worrisome.
I generally only use the steel wool on smooth flat surfaces. Otherwise the wax actually breaks apart the steel and you get tiny pieces of steel everywhere and cracks and grain structure. For surfaces like that I generally use either brown paper bag or a shop rag.
@@WoodByWright outstanding! Thank you! I was too lazy to look for the video again so I appreciate your help 🤣
Gotta say, usually your videos get an automatic 'like' even before I finish watching them..but the work-holding on this project was terrible. How many times does it need to slip before you accept you need a better way of gripping?
honestly, that is why I have it in the clamp . slippage is not a bad thing. I would rather the work slip a bit then dig in too far with the rasp.
@@WoodByWright 🤣
Maybe, as a restorer and carver, it just makes me edgy..I'm not a safety preacher, just a practical one, and I fear damaging the wood, the tool, or my bench, warrants a re-think of my approach!
Love your vids..
Stay safe!
I feel you. Most of the time I like things to be really solid but when working on delicate pieces with a rasp I find not cranking them down all the way just gives me a little bit more flexibility that if I accidentally put too much force into it the piece will move threads and gouging into deeply. But if I'm carving or working with sharp tools then usually I keep the work as tight as possible. But in that case I don't have a whole lot of problem of putting too much force into things.
this was so stressfull to watch.
Why is that? Most people consider them to be a bit relaxing.