“Some really weird things“… “thank you” (as requested)… I really like your videos because you explain things so well. And I do like your aesthetic choices for a tricky repair… beautiful.
Thanks a lot I was contemplating making my own wooden plane for a jack plane because I can't find a cheap Stanley no5 on ebay or the French-equivalent-of-craigslist. However, there are tons of antique wooden planes that go for a few euros, and those would save me a lot of time over making one. But they tend to have worn soles and a wide mouth. Now I know I can resole them. And it's a good stepping stone before making an entire plane anyway.
Nice job :) One twist on a re sole of a wooden plane is to make a hardwood insert at the mouth as you did for the chip repair but with the end grain down ( showing at the sole when you turn the plane over. At ninety degrees to the rest of the sole) End grain down will not chip at the mouth and is very hard wearing where you really need it.
Excellent video. I love this style of plane and both of mine have some pretty wide open mouths. So... I tend to use them to hog out material with pretty high radius blades installed. Maybe I'll resole one of them for finer work. After shellac, I like to use Deluxing Compound instead of regular waxes, which are too glossy. I think Behlen makes it. Leaves you with a more subtle shine that tends to fit an antique tool.
i was a meeting of the RMTC and a transitional plane caught my eye. Didn't need, but had to have it. I have yet to use it . This video is a great help as I've never used one. Thank you!!
Amusingly enough, RUclips didn't care to keep the posts in chronological order (at least for me), so now you just have a bunch of individual letters that no longer spell "comment down below".
2 questions. 1, does the sole need to be of uniform thickness to the top, where the metal parts screw onto? 2, if you were to make a project a month when would the wood wear down enough to need to resole it?
It does not need to be a uniform sickness. As long as it is flat and the iron can stick out uniformly across the blade that's all that matters. As to the second question that's a really gray area. It depends on what you want to use it for if you are planning a lot of figured woods then you need a fairly tight mouse. But for general use you can let the mouth get really big. Most people take it to around 3/16 of an inch.
A question about glue, PVA vs epoxy. One old take about woodworking and glue ups is that with oily woods like rosewood, and others, is that you need to wipe the surface down first with acetone. I posed that question on one forum and basically every one said that is a myth, and the PVA glue works fine on even lignum. Any comments??? I have a couple of planes that I want to resole, or just do from scratch, and /or put a long wearing sole on, or build from scratch and then put a long lasting sole on to start with. Maybe another side question would be I have seen several videos on plane making where an end grain piece is put in cross wise on the plane, and it is very hard woods. I am guessing mostly for longer wear. Any comments?
Yes. It is an old myth. It was more of a problem for hide glue, but even then it was not that much of a problem. And, yes. The end grain wears slower but if care is not taken it will chip off easier.
Fantastic and timely! I just picked up a Stanley 76 with a chipped mouth and now I have a plan to fix it! I’ll try the inlay first, but if that won’t work, I’ll resole it. Thanks!
I have two beautiful red haired daughters. I have a red beard and reddish brown hair. I love that I just watched a red haired man make a new sole. This video disproves the notion that Gingers don't have one.
This was great James. I really enjoyed watching. My question is I have an old Jointer Plane that is twisted toe to heal. Is there any way of repairing it or is just now an ole wooden paper weight?
Sure. You can take the twist out of it just like you would I'm bored that has wind in it. He was winding sticks to make sure that you're hitting the high spot and then just playing the high spots. Bring it down until it's flat and true just like squaring off the face of the board.
Hi, James! An educational pleasure, as always! For about half a year ago, my inner slumbering woodworker finally came to life. Thus, I am throwing myself at different projects to explore new techniques and acquire the tools I need to fully indulge. Two big lilac trees (main trunks approx 25-30 cm wide), growing on our yard, fell in a recent storm. So, in progress is a Ruobo frame saw. My adaptation of the build you’ve showcased, limited by the hardware I could afford/acquire. It’s made of out of Scandinavian pine, which I had readily available. I’m planning to coat it with Shellac, mostly to get experience doing so. This finally leads us to the questions: - I didn’t see any linseed oil being applies beforehand. Don’t you typicallyBefore shellac? Depending on the wood being used? How much time do you typically leave the shellac to dry between coats? Most sources I’ve come across seems to suggest longer time than what seems intuitively necessary to me (several hours). I’ve onlybever used shellac to seal nots (before painting) before, but in that case, the first coat has seemed dry enough to apply the second within in a matter of minutes… Excuse this lengthy post. Just wanted to give a bit of background to the questions above as well as me saying how deeply and truly grateful I am for the amazing work you do, preserving and redistributing this fountain of human culture, knowledge and ingenuity. Furthermore doing it in such a comprehensive, yet condensed, and relaxed, humble way is just mind blowing. Cheers and best wishes from Sweden! P.S. How you will be able to appropriately take partial responsibility for the mess all of this inspiration has caused a hard working father of three small ones, having to juggle a manic urge for workshop matters with everything else, that is a matter for another day, good Sir! D.S.
Generally I don't apply boiled Lindsay oil before shellac. Sometimes I want to add that color from it. I usually only wait 45 minutes or so between layers of shellac. When it's thin there's no reason to wait long.
This was pretty cool, I have several transitional planes, some for firewood and some for restoring. Same process I would assume if you wanted to do a coffin plane or nice wooden jointer plane ???
Question on wood selection for the sole: is rosewood desirable because of the higher oil content or the density? Obviously appearance isn’t the primary concern on the sole as it could play a larger role on the side. Would you ever be interested in making a wooden smoothing plane out of Osage orange? I have a guy close by with a bandsaw mill and a stack of Osage Orange, and a small pile of slabs. If strength and density are the concern, I’d use Osage Orange for the sole (and it looks stunning when polished up to 1500+
Usually is is hardness and stability. rosewood is good for both. Osage Orange is hard but it is ring pours and a bit less stable. but that would not make it a bad choice.
Unfortunately it's really really difficult to show that actual work inside. The camera just can't fit in there with the tool. I put the chisel on the frog and use it to reference and slide down until it catches. Anywhere where it hits just remove that material.
@@Hansenomics because uncured epoxy resin is a very aggressive sensitising agent. It can give you awful contact allergies if you get it on your skin too many times.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
A Wood by Wright classic: very informative, educational, entertaining, relaxing, and a final touch of humor. Thanks, James!
“Some really weird things“… “thank you” (as requested)… I really like your videos because you explain things so well. And I do like your aesthetic choices for a tricky repair… beautiful.
Thanks a lot
I was contemplating making my own wooden plane for a jack plane because I can't find a cheap Stanley no5 on ebay or the French-equivalent-of-craigslist. However, there are tons of antique wooden planes that go for a few euros, and those would save me a lot of time over making one.
But they tend to have worn soles and a wide mouth. Now I know I can resole them.
And it's a good stepping stone before making an entire plane anyway.
Nice job :) One twist on a re sole of a wooden plane is to make a hardwood insert at the mouth as you did for the chip repair but with the end grain down ( showing at the sole when you turn the plane over. At ninety degrees to the rest of the sole) End grain down will not chip at the mouth and is very hard wearing where you really need it.
Ive been wondering how to go about resoling a wooden plane and then this video pops up. Awesome video yet again.
Now audio is great, thx for new upload!
Cheers from Poland 🍻
Couldn't believe I uploaded the wrong file on that one. Lol
I love the contrast between the rosewood and beech..
Having a pair of wood body planes, it’s good to know how to resole them. Thanks! That closing joke cut to the depths of my sole.
I really liked the way you fixed that chip on the soul. Pretty clever man
Wow nice attention to the details
This was very good and timely for me. I have a number of transitional planes I want to get working. Thanks
Hello Sir...
Just Love your videos here in India....❤
Excellent video. I love this style of plane and both of mine have some pretty wide open mouths. So... I tend to use them to hog out material with pretty high radius blades installed. Maybe I'll resole one of them for finer work. After shellac, I like to use Deluxing Compound instead of regular waxes, which are too glossy. I think Behlen makes it. Leaves you with a more subtle shine that tends to fit an antique tool.
Great job. Love the transitional planes
Extend the life of the plane by adding a new sole.
So that transitional plane will obviously be the life and soul of any woodworking party!
Great job this is the type of video I enjoy most ,so thank you.
Looks great James! I have a longer Transition plane that needs help if you need the practice...
I have a No 29 transitional plane that I use as a jointer that could probably use this treatment, thanks!
i was a meeting of the RMTC and a transitional plane caught my eye. Didn't need, but had to have it. I have yet to use it . This video is a great help as I've never used one. Thank you!!
Thanks for the video. Been thinking on getting a transitional for a while
Always enjoy your videos. They are informative and easy to follow. Have made a few of the kits you sell and they have turned out great.
For the algorithm! Always appreciate the videos and methodology, thank you for your contribution to human kind.
Amusingly enough, RUclips didn't care to keep the posts in chronological order (at least for me), so now you just have a bunch of individual letters that no longer spell "comment down below".
Really beautiful work, James! It turned out amazing! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Looks amazing. Well done 👍
Excellent Work, as usual!
2 questions. 1, does the sole need to be of uniform thickness to the top, where the metal parts screw onto? 2, if you were to make a project a month when would the wood wear down enough to need to resole it?
It does not need to be a uniform sickness. As long as it is flat and the iron can stick out uniformly across the blade that's all that matters. As to the second question that's a really gray area. It depends on what you want to use it for if you are planning a lot of figured woods then you need a fairly tight mouse. But for general use you can let the mouth get really big. Most people take it to around 3/16 of an inch.
Thank you, James!
James,
Using a disposable saw is just not write of you. LOL.
this video very interesting. I have a stanley no. 30 I need to get back to work on.
I've been experimenting with using a disposable saw for doing aggressive rough cuts where I don't care about the finish quality.
Rosewood was a great choice.
A question about glue, PVA vs epoxy. One old take about woodworking and glue ups is that with oily woods like rosewood, and others, is that you need to wipe the surface down first with acetone. I posed that question on one forum and basically every one said that is a myth, and the PVA glue works fine on even lignum. Any comments??? I have a couple of planes that I want to resole, or just do from scratch, and /or put a long wearing sole on, or build from scratch and then put a long lasting sole on to start with.
Maybe another side question would be I have seen several videos on plane making where an end grain piece is put in cross wise on the plane, and it is very hard woods. I am guessing mostly for longer wear. Any comments?
Yes. It is an old myth. It was more of a problem for hide glue, but even then it was not that much of a problem.
And, yes. The end grain wears slower but if care is not taken it will chip off easier.
Thanks from RSA
Fantastic and timely! I just picked up a Stanley 76 with a chipped mouth and now I have a plan to fix it! I’ll try the inlay first, but if that won’t work, I’ll resole it. Thanks!
I have two beautiful red haired daughters. I have a red beard and reddish brown hair. I love that I just watched a red haired man make a new sole. This video disproves the notion that Gingers don't have one.
why did you plane the sole in your tail vise?... it seems like it would've been ideal to clamp in your Patternmaker Vise...
The pattern makers vice has metal faces and would scratch it up. It's good when I'm working on a piece that is n't a finished face.
Great video, James! I think ... I slept through some of it ... Not your fault! I'm just tired.
A have a transitional fore plane that I need to finish my rebuild on.
This was great James. I really enjoyed watching. My question is I have an old Jointer Plane that is twisted toe to heal. Is there any way of repairing it or is just now an ole wooden paper weight?
Sure. You can take the twist out of it just like you would I'm bored that has wind in it. He was winding sticks to make sure that you're hitting the high spot and then just playing the high spots. Bring it down until it's flat and true just like squaring off the face of the board.
Hi, James! An educational pleasure, as always!
For about half a year ago, my inner slumbering woodworker finally came to life. Thus, I am throwing myself at different projects to explore new techniques and acquire the tools I need to fully indulge.
Two big lilac trees (main trunks approx 25-30 cm wide), growing on our yard, fell in a recent storm. So, in progress is a Ruobo frame saw. My adaptation of the build you’ve showcased, limited by the hardware I could afford/acquire.
It’s made of out of Scandinavian pine, which I had readily available. I’m planning to coat it with Shellac, mostly to get experience doing so. This finally leads us to the questions:
- I didn’t see any linseed oil being applies beforehand. Don’t you typicallyBefore shellac? Depending on the wood being used? How much time do you typically leave the shellac to dry between coats? Most sources I’ve come across seems to suggest longer time than what seems intuitively necessary to me (several hours). I’ve onlybever used shellac to seal nots (before painting) before, but in that case, the first coat has seemed dry enough to apply the second within in a matter of minutes…
Excuse this lengthy post. Just wanted to give a bit of background to the questions above as well as me saying how deeply and truly grateful I am for the amazing work you do, preserving and redistributing this fountain of human culture, knowledge and ingenuity. Furthermore doing it in such a comprehensive, yet condensed, and relaxed, humble way is just mind blowing.
Cheers and best wishes from Sweden!
P.S. How you will be able to appropriately take partial responsibility for the mess all of this inspiration has caused a hard working father of three small ones, having to juggle a manic urge for workshop matters with everything else, that is a matter for another day, good Sir! D.S.
Generally I don't apply boiled Lindsay oil before shellac. Sometimes I want to add that color from it. I usually only wait 45 minutes or so between layers of shellac. When it's thin there's no reason to wait long.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks for sharing your views on the matter!
Excellent video!!
Thumbs up!!
This was pretty cool, I have several transitional planes, some for firewood and some for restoring. Same process I would assume if you wanted to do a coffin plane or nice wooden jointer plane ???
Right on. It is the same for any plane.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo awesome, now I'll have to get me some decent wood and see what I can make out of some of these planes
Thanks for sharing.
Nice job
Question on wood selection for the sole: is rosewood desirable because of the higher oil content or the density? Obviously appearance isn’t the primary concern on the sole as it could play a larger role on the side.
Would you ever be interested in making a wooden smoothing plane out of Osage orange? I have a guy close by with a bandsaw mill and a stack of Osage Orange, and a small pile of slabs. If strength and density are the concern, I’d use Osage Orange for the sole (and it looks stunning when polished up to 1500+
Usually is is hardness and stability. rosewood is good for both. Osage Orange is hard but it is ring pours and a bit less stable. but that would not make it a bad choice.
Nice job!
NICE job 👏.
What can I say???!!! Gorgeous.😊
Is it possible to re-sole a wood plan with no metal handle bit? Just the blade bit and a wood wedge that holds it in
It sure is. It's the exact same method.
Nice.
Not sure if I'm being abit silly but I'm wondering if using a stabilised wood could be a little more durable?
Not much more then Rosewood. It is an extremely durable wood.
Even better 🎉
looks good, man!
Great video thank you.
Thank you?
Lovely project, left me with my mouth open 😂
Great info
If you sanded the sole, would that have prevented the chip in the mouth that you had to fix?
No. The chip was because there was a defect in the wood grain.
Thanks!
If you keep adding sole layers to the plane it will end up looking like the band Kiss' platform shoes. Planes of the 80's.
Enjoyed!
I would just like to say "Some really weird things." Thank you. I feel better for saying that. :)
Nice save. :)
Thank You for the Tips and Teachings.
BTW, the Dad Joked .... 🤣
I don't understand, How does the size of the mouth opening affect the function of the plane? I'm not comprehending.
For most operations it does not. But when planing difficult grain it helps limit tear out.
What did you update?
The first one had bad audio so you could not hear the voice over. I just uploaded the wrong file and had to reupload it.
Nice!
Wow!
👍
Sorry about that!
@@WoodByWrightHowTo errare humanum est, as the Romans used to say, shit happends, loosely translated
How do you expect me to cut a tenon when I can’t even cut a five on!
But can you cut the cheese?
A sole of a comment about what plane.
Mamite but Rosewood
Some really weird things. 😂🎉
Snide remark lol
Weird things rules :D
I see a lot of these resoled by old-timers with brass or steel plates. Maybe they didn’t want to just buy a metal plane?
Comment below!
W
Comment down below
Stand Up! oops you are
“Weird things”
You did a poor job showing HOW you corrected the frog/throat misalignment. Did you have to cut down the throat or change the frog alignment? Or both?
Where is your video on this topic. How do you do it?
Unfortunately it's really really difficult to show that actual work inside. The camera just can't fit in there with the tool. I put the chisel on the frog and use it to reference and slide down until it catches. Anywhere where it hits just remove that material.
It’s a Frankenplane😅
O
B
M
D
T
You really should wear gloves when working with epoxy... keep safe.
Why?
@@Hansenomics because uncured epoxy resin is a very aggressive sensitising agent. It can give you awful contact allergies if you get it on your skin too many times.
Another snide remark
E
Saying really weird things (for the algorithm)
L
Algorithm Boost here! 🦾
Nice!
W
Comment down below
O
M
E
Comment down below
O