Hey thanks for the video! I started watching your shorts for fun and entertainment but have accidentally learned so much. Now I’m here trying to learn something and you have just the video I need. Always liked woodworking but rarely make stuff, your tool videos give me the confidence I needed to start. I think a major reason is how you approach tool use, and I think part of it is due to your hand tool use. yeah the right tool for the job might go faster but others can do the same jobs, results are the important part, not how you got there.
Thank you Jim, most informative. All the best to you and our Wright cousins over there from the Wright family (of which I am a member) Down Under. Cheers, Brian
The saw sharpening videos that James has posted are very good and helped me learn how to do it. As with all sharpening, practice makes perfect. Or maybe practice makes "better". haha.
Great tutorial, James! If I had known this early in my hand tool woodworking life, I wouldn’t have bought all these saws I have. Buuuuuuut…. in that case, I wouldn’t have all these saws, and I really like all my saws! 😂
Another good video with lots of good information. I have my Great Great Grandfather's old Disston panel saw with the homemade handle that my Grandfather put in it, and it's still a user.
I use the small panel saws a lot. I've got one in rip and one in cross cut and they are my go to saws. You get the speed of a panel without the extra weight of a full panel saw.
Thank you for making videos like this! The biggest thing I gathered from this video is that it doesn't particularly require a specific saw for a specific job. Instead, understand how a saw works and work around the limitations of whatever saw you already have to get the job done
Honestly I would advise a new woodworker to get a gent saw before a dovetail saw. I have a lie nielson dovetail saw and an old sorby but I always find myself reaching for my cheap little pax gent saw instead of those. I love that little guy.
Spreadsheet. Make a spreadsheet, saws vertically, applications horizontally and a rating at intersections. And another one: saws vertically, parameters horizontally.
Suddenly I have a better understanding of why it was so hard to rip cut a 5' piece of cherry with my ryoba vs doing the same with my 8 ppi handsaw... which is still a tad high!
2 years late. Trying to decide on decent saws for doing wood repair as part of a window restoration career. Sounds like a pair of Veritas saws are my best bet
I'm rocking a used $10 hand saw 30 inch ripper. And yeah made a lot of bad buys but James do you have a video on buying used saws? I have a few now waiting to be cut up for something else. Wether the bend was a bit much or the just cut poorly but half the used saws I buy don't make it in the shop. Buck saw is so nice for wood turning getting blanks cut up and for milling on my router table.
I have a couple videos on buying saws. This was the most recent.www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3D0BVQJzqIsxk&ved=2ahUKEwi4zZ_q7-n0AhUMlIkEHfjhCp4QwqsBegQICBAE&usg=AOvVaw1wgV_RrQvcf3YucHRhXxYi
Dude could you do something on making new handles for saw's as I've got a pair of new footprint back saw's and yeah they're alright but the handles ain't doing it for my hand and I'd rather something to play with before adjusting the factory ones if possible
I believe I have a video on making a saw handle. I also have several on making plain totes. It's basically the same thing for both other than the slot for the plate.
Great video. There is a downed tree at my in-laws that they've offered me to come and chop up! I was considering taking a 2 metre section of it and processing into boards. Is there a specific saw for rip cutting green wood? I can turn into beam format with axes/adzes, but not really sure what to do beyond that. I've rip cut some decent sized timber in the past, but usually a single rip cut or two with a 5tpi, rather than a tree!
Depending on how much waste you're willing to work with/how straight the grain is, you might look into riving with wedges and a massive mallet (or smaller boards with a froe)
You are just looking for really big rip teeth. A pit saw would be the thing but that is a two man saw. You could do it with a frame saw but those only get as big as 3-4 PPI.
Thanks guys! I'll probably get to the beam stage first and decide how I tackle it then. I suppose I'm not time restricted, so I could just do one rip a day for a week or two!
So... I bought the rip cut carcass saw from Veritas. Doh.😬. What do you think: Resharpen to cross cut, or keep it as a sort of dovetail saw? (i also ordered a spear & jackson tenon saw (reviewed by Rex and by Paul) , with 'universal teeth')
The Veritas rip cut “carcass” saw has 12 tpi (13 ppi). That is fine enough to cut the shoulders of your tenons, especially as you should be knifing the shoulder line and creating what Paul Sellers calls a “knife wall”. The rip cut tooth geometry is also quick and easy to sharpen and a freshly sharpened saw will always give a cleaner cut. It is probably the only “joinery” saw you would ever need.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Owning more stuff than you need is not fun, it's a burden. As for having them to demonstrate, that's a valid reason for you to have them. But keeping unused tools on display in the background makes people think they need more than they do. This video will show the truth to the people who see it, but the folks who miss it won't know.
Can you give the ranges of ppi that the saws can or may have and which ppi do you prefer for each type? Your vids help greatly in getting into the craft. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Some of the smallest PPI go all the way down to 20, 20. And the largest ones go all the way up to 1/2. They're usually for a dovetail. The smallest I like to go is about 16. For mid-size joinery I like it to be around 10 or 8. For large ripping I like it to be around a four or five.
Once you get the skill to cut, freehand might have box just takes up. A lot of space takes a decent amount of time to set up and is a lot of hassle. You can get just as clean if not clean or cut by hand. Once you have the skill to follow a line. If I'm waiter box is set up well it can do a really good job. But over time they tend to drift out of their settings. And so you have to do constant maintenance on them to keep them in place. For beginner. It's a great way to get a guaranteed cut. But once you have the skill it's just a lot more work to use one.
No. I feel much the same. It's great for a few specific purposes. But those few specific purposes only come about once every year few years in my shop.
Hey thanks for the video! I started watching your shorts for fun and entertainment but have accidentally learned so much. Now I’m here trying to learn something and you have just the video I need. Always liked woodworking but rarely make stuff, your tool videos give me the confidence I needed to start. I think a major reason is how you approach tool use, and I think part of it is due to your hand tool use. yeah the right tool for the job might go faster but others can do the same jobs, results are the important part, not how you got there.
Thank you Jim, most informative. All the best to you and our Wright cousins over there from the Wright family (of which I am a member) Down Under. Cheers, Brian
Also, most members of the family over here are woodworkers going back to the mid 1800s.
The saw sharpening videos that James has posted are very good and helped me learn how to do it. As with all sharpening, practice makes perfect. Or maybe practice makes "better". haha.
I agree about the big handsaw: I have a 5 ppi (or tpi, I'm not sure) Disston rip saw, and it is a machine for preparing stock. Great tool.
Great tutorial, James! If I had known this early in my hand tool woodworking life, I wouldn’t have bought all these saws I have. Buuuuuuut…. in that case, I wouldn’t have all these saws, and I really like all my saws! 😂
Another good video with lots of good information. I have my Great Great Grandfather's old Disston panel saw with the homemade handle that my Grandfather put in it, and it's still a user.
I use the small panel saws a lot. I've got one in rip and one in cross cut and they are my go to saws. You get the speed of a panel without the extra weight of a full panel saw.
Thank you for making videos like this! The biggest thing I gathered from this video is that it doesn't particularly require a specific saw for a specific job. Instead, understand how a saw works and work around the limitations of whatever saw you already have to get the job done
Well said!
In Facebook marketplace, a hand plane is a wood planer and a dovetail saw is a hand saw.
Honestly I would advise a new woodworker to get a gent saw before a dovetail saw. I have a lie nielson dovetail saw and an old sorby but I always find myself reaching for my cheap little pax gent saw instead of those. I love that little guy.
Spreadsheet. Make a spreadsheet, saws vertically, applications horizontally and a rating at intersections. And another one: saws vertically, parameters horizontally.
That is actually a fantastic idea. I could do a lot of fun color grading with that too.
Danke!
Suddenly I have a better understanding of why it was so hard to rip cut a 5' piece of cherry with my ryoba vs doing the same with my 8 ppi handsaw... which is still a tad high!
Really interesting stuff indeed, James! 😃
Thanks a lot!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
2 years late. Trying to decide on decent saws for doing wood repair as part of a window restoration career. Sounds like a pair of Veritas saws are my best bet
Awesome. This video is super helpful!
I'm thinking radial arm saw, but not out loud😁
Saws saws and more saws! Love it
At 13:52 did you mean 'Mitre Box' when you were saying 'Mitre Saw' some of the time?
yes.
I'm rocking a used $10 hand saw 30 inch ripper. And yeah made a lot of bad buys but James do you have a video on buying used saws? I have a few now waiting to be cut up for something else. Wether the bend was a bit much or the just cut poorly but half the used saws I buy don't make it in the shop.
Buck saw is so nice for wood turning getting blanks cut up and for milling on my router table.
I have a couple videos on buying saws. This was the most recent.www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3D0BVQJzqIsxk&ved=2ahUKEwi4zZ_q7-n0AhUMlIkEHfjhCp4QwqsBegQICBAE&usg=AOvVaw1wgV_RrQvcf3YucHRhXxYi
Dude could you do something on making new handles for saw's as I've got a pair of new footprint back saw's and yeah they're alright but the handles ain't doing it for my hand and I'd rather something to play with before adjusting the factory ones if possible
I believe I have a video on making a saw handle. I also have several on making plain totes. It's basically the same thing for both other than the slot for the plate.
Great info!
Here's a comment to help game the algorithm and get the woodworking word to more people.
Great video. There is a downed tree at my in-laws that they've offered me to come and chop up! I was considering taking a 2 metre section of it and processing into boards. Is there a specific saw for rip cutting green wood? I can turn into beam format with axes/adzes, but not really sure what to do beyond that. I've rip cut some decent sized timber in the past, but usually a single rip cut or two with a 5tpi, rather than a tree!
Depending on how much waste you're willing to work with/how straight the grain is, you might look into riving with wedges and a massive mallet (or smaller boards with a froe)
You are just looking for really big rip teeth. A pit saw would be the thing but that is a two man saw. You could do it with a frame saw but those only get as big as 3-4 PPI.
Thanks guys! I'll probably get to the beam stage first and decide how I tackle it then. I suppose I'm not time restricted, so I could just do one rip a day for a week or two!
Yes!!! A new video.
the king of first is back in town!
So... I bought the rip cut carcass saw from Veritas. Doh.😬. What do you think: Resharpen to cross cut, or keep it as a sort of dovetail saw? (i also ordered a spear & jackson tenon saw (reviewed by Rex and by Paul) , with 'universal teeth')
The Veritas rip cut “carcass” saw has 12 tpi (13 ppi). That is fine enough to cut the shoulders of your tenons, especially as you should be knifing the shoulder line and creating what Paul Sellers calls a “knife wall”. The rip cut tooth geometry is also quick and easy to sharpen and a freshly sharpened saw will always give a cleaner cut. It is probably the only “joinery” saw you would ever need.
The Spear and Jackson is a great saw!
Great video
got it - buy the 3 saw veritas bundle for $265 and be done w it.
What is PPI?
PPI points per inch. It is a little more common with hand saws then TPI.
just bought a 14 tpi rip cut saw from veritas, its so shiny i dont want to use it.
Thanks for pointing out that you own more saws than you use, or need.
That's the fun of teaching. You've got to have a bunch more than you use just so that you can demonstrate them when people ask.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo
Owning more stuff than you need is not fun, it's a burden.
As for having them to demonstrate, that's a valid reason for you to have them. But keeping unused tools on display in the background makes people think they need more than they do.
This video will show the truth to the people who see it, but the folks who miss it won't know.
Can you give the ranges of ppi that the saws can or may have and which ppi do you prefer for each type? Your vids help greatly in getting into the craft. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Some of the smallest PPI go all the way down to 20, 20. And the largest ones go all the way up to 1/2. They're usually for a dovetail. The smallest I like to go is about 16. For mid-size joinery I like it to be around 10 or 8. For large ripping I like it to be around a four or five.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks, that helps a lot.
Do your saws do well with conic functions or is that merely hypebole
Comment down below
Why do you poopoo on old quality miter boxes?
Once you get the skill to cut, freehand might have box just takes up. A lot of space takes a decent amount of time to set up and is a lot of hassle. You can get just as clean if not clean or cut by hand. Once you have the skill to follow a line. If I'm waiter box is set up well it can do a really good job. But over time they tend to drift out of their settings. And so you have to do constant maintenance on them to keep them in place. For beginner. It's a great way to get a guaranteed cut. But once you have the skill it's just a lot more work to use one.
I came and I saw
Saw comment
You sing the praises of your miter saw in 2016 for certain uses (ruclips.net/video/HEH64wVtHbw/видео.html). I'm guessing you've changed your mind?
No. I feel much the same. It's great for a few specific purposes. But those few specific purposes only come about once every year few years in my shop.
Boop