How To Have More Fun + Progress Your Surfing In ALL Wave Types
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2024
- In todays lesson of the week we discuss why experimenting with different surfboard designs will change your life! We have a look at how surfing longboards, fishes and performance boards can all help you become a better surfer.
Watch more of Ryan's tutorials, at The Surfers Journey RUclips Channel;
/ @thesurfersjourney
I think most surfers would benefit from spending more time on a longboard, especially when they are starting. Take a look at the faces of people longboarding and you will usually see smiles. Shortboards can often come with frowns. Learning the basics of surfing on a shortboard can be difficult especially in lower quality waves. On a longboard, it's much easier to connect with the wave, learn how to speed pump, and do turns. It also will clean up your style a lot. Try cross stepping and go for cheater 5s. Relaxed shoulders are very important for stylish shortboarding, cross stepping will help you to loosen up. Skip Frye said something like "trim is the cake of surfing, everything else is just icing." Truly connecting with your board, the wave and the rythym of the experience is what we are all looking for as surfers. That feeling is most easily accessible through a longboard. It may be more rewarding on a shortboard but there are many more challenges to overcome. Where I live the waves are rarely big and perfect. But perfect little peelers are not too hard to come by. I've got a different board for every break cuz they are all pretty unique. Sometimes it's the sessions youre not expecting much from that are the most rewarding. Longboard, no people no leash, just me and the wave. Those are the times I feel so grateful to be a surfer. Of course there are barrels and crowds and reef slams and all that excitement which I love as well. Keeping a rotation of different boards and different approaches will keep things fresh and fun. Each new board you try will you a new hint. It's also fun when you start realizing what designs work for you and what dont. Not all longboards were created equal!
“Just take your time - wave comes. Let the other guys go, catch another one.”
- Duke Kahanamoku
Surfing is about being confident yet humble. Able but not too showy. Aloha guys 🤙🏽
Mahalo Caden, we agree totally.
Please make a video about fins! Performance, quads, brands, etc. love your vids!!
Riding different boards like you guys have said has made my surfing come together a lot faster because I'm starting to learn weight distribution and being able to turn the board move the board and control the board in different ways and I can feel the difference in the boards and that's a very great idea thank you
Thanks for the good vibes and inspiration, as always. 🤙
That’s the best surfing I’ve seen you do Steven
Kales loling
Give me summer wavs
Good fish.
And im happy.
Rail to rail man
I’ve just started - I got a Torq Horseshoe 9’3” it’s been a blast learning on it and seems like a board that will stay in the quiver. It feels very capable and leads me with encouraging performance as I’ve progressed but with the ease of a large board. My next will be a high volume fish setup - but that’s weeks away. Thanks for all the good advice - I’ve been paying close attention
Sounds like a fun board Nate, stoked to hear it! Please keep us informed with your progress!
Great Vid, should looks to invest in a better wind sock or microphone though. Pretty difficult to hear in some sections
Do I sense a surf pun in there :D
Unfortunately it was really windy this day (obviously), apologies for the audio!
Hey guys. Great channel. I’m a newbie. In every sense of the word. But have taken to surfing quite quickly due to a few things. A: your videos have helped me fast track. And I have taken two lessons. Sadly only on a Great Lake at this point as I live in Canada. While I am an avid sports person, mountain biker, tennis, snowboarding, skiing. Sport bike rider with the odd track day etc. Essentially I love keeping my mind and body challenged. And surfing is my all time life want. Just didn’t know one can surf in Canada. So here we are now where I’m ready to purchase my first board. And while I know the first response will be to buy a long board. But...I don’t feel comfortable on one and am thinking to move straight to a medium egg type board ranging to be 8’0 or possibly 7’10 as my first overall mini longboard. The issue I’m having. And seeing the waves I get to see here on the Great Lakes are anywhere from 1-6 and up to 10 plus on good windy days. So my question and hope from vids from you would be. Can you make a vid with a comparison of certain boards that are relatively close in style and use. I’m tossed up between the 7’10-8’0 lost - smooth operator and the Lost - crowd killer. I’m even thinking of the FORM flow stick. All have the weight / volume i need. 50-55+ as a beginner who accelerates fast with things. So I’m looking for a board that will keep me happy while progressing and still catching waves. Any help would be awesome. But definitely would love to see comparisons as to just reviews of a single board. :) cheers mates. Ps. How can we find your email to discuss other more personal business scenarios. I couldn’t find any details to how to connect outside of the comments. Thanks. P.
Hi, enjoy the vids. Could you maybe do a one on how to tell if you front, neutral or back footed? I’ve been surfing for quite a while and this is still a bit of a mystery for me. I get the high level but I think there is a lot more too it?
Justin Reabow I have the same doubt
Thank you for your videos. Appreciate the knowledge.
Got a 2nd hand lost puddle jumper as a learner intermediate surfer. 43 liter 6 foot 2" (I'm 100kg 192cm). I love how it feels, just waiting for better conditions now..
We've heard good things about it, sounds fun!
Hey Ryan & Kale. Would be awesome if you did a video about getting you boards to the surf (road trip roof racks / board bags international travel)
I’ve always been a little sketched out about damaging my board in transit so tips on how to protect them would be awesome!!
Great idea Rich, it's always a nervous time travelling with boards!
Travelling with glassed fins?
Jim McCarley I’ve got Futures V2 F6 Generation 5 Fin Set.
However, they’re so easy to take in and out if most likely travel with them out.
Hey this is great man. Thanks for the wonderful perspective.
I'm about to goto Sri Lanka, going to try out these badass moves
Thank you thank you thank you so awesome and helpful and very helpful
Amazzzzzinnnggglyyyy helpful...
Your videos are better and better guys!
I m looking for an hybrid surfboard or "biscuit board" second hand around 45L 😎
Thanks guys!!!
Thanks Romain, sounds good!
Hey, great vid. I was wondering if there’s a proper technique for sitting/paddling on a shortboard as they are much more wobbly than longboards. I want to progress to a shorter board because it’s more convenient with a car, but simply balancing on them has been the hardest part for me. Maybe you could even do a video on this? Thanks!
We have a few on this top Dillon! Let us know how you go!
What's the first song?
Awesome Vid! Next board I am looking at is probably a 9'6 performance longboard. After that, I may end up with some sort of fun board, or mid length (7-8').
Sounds good Gmac, mixing things up!
How to Rip you know, I picked up surfing earlier this year, with a veteran program called Operation Surf, and it has changed my life! now I’m all about it! I am learning as much as possible, and progressing very quickly!
That's great to hear, I'm stoked to hear it! There's nothing like it hey! Was there a Netflix doco on Operation Surf?
How to Rip yes there was ReSurfaced
We would love get involved with something like that Gmac, such an epic program! Thank you for your service!
hey @howtorip I can catch a wave snd ride smoothly down the line, im currently riding a 6.6 and I feel like thats too thick and big because of my height, I am 1.5 m small😏 which board do you suggest, hp shortboards?
I am not sure if as a smaller surfer “a grom” I need a fatter smaller board to get the multiple turns I want on a 1 to 4 foot normal surf
Try one and see how it goes for you
Hi can I surf on a 5'2"(50L ) surfboard(hydrofoil board hybrid).I used to surf on a 7'2" (55L).I can't afford to keep both . I'm 80kg,173cm.Should I go with a larger surfboard with occasional hydrofoiling or a 5'2" hydrofoil will work?
Great video as usual. How much do you weigh? Those shortboards are tiny.
Thanks Connor! 75kg.
What's your height and weight? I'm getting a new board and i'll try something like your second board.
175cm and 75kg Yuri, I highly recommend it.
@@HowtoRip Wow, same as me! Thank you!
What if you learn and rip a Shortboard but are ok on a Longboard? Ive always grown up with the idea that " You start with a longboard and progress to a shorter board.".... I dont agree.
HardFlip Mike me too
Can you surf your shortboard in ankle to knee high waves and enjoy it? If so, good on you. But I like to mix it up and surf a longboard on days like that, it's a totally different experience. Each to their own guys, there are no fixed rules here :)
Hi
Second