Hi Rhaswin. This video was a big help especially with taking off that top corrugated hose. My car's a 2003 Acura 1.7 EL which is the same as the Civic shown in the video. Pushing hard ultimately was the answer to getting off the hose but it took awhile to make sure I didn't get too western and cause damage to the connector. What I found hard was pulling up on the connector while pulling down on the cannister. The connector "buttons" on either side seemed jammed up too. My solution was two parts patience and one part adding a little muscle and a more practical method to add parting force. I used a narrow strap to wrap around the base of the neck and tied up the two ends to make a pulling handle. Then I got my hockey playing 12 year old daughter to pull on that while working on pushing in the two connector buttons, twisting it back and forth as much as I could. Then all of a sudden the buttons started to finally push in and POOF! the connector came off with a big cloud of dust! It seems like dirt must have become packed inside the connector causing the buttons to seize. We both had on safety glasses but definitely got a taste of the dirt cloud we made. I found the electrical connector on the valve a bit stuck on too but lightly squeezing the plastic release with pliers while pulling and wiggling at the same time did the trick. I did replace both the cannister and the solenoid valve at the same time. I also went to the autowreckers to remove a cannister complete with the hoses prior to the job. That gave me hoses that I could wash up but there's also a hose clamp that has a screw holding it to the cannister for the biggest hose - the screw holding on that clamp was just as rusted in as the two screws holding the solenoid valve so I ended up cutting off the screw head with a Dremel cutting wheel. I got M5 x 0.8 x 10mm screws from Lowes to mount both the hose clamp and new solenoid valve on the new cannister (since none were provided) - a nut was screwed on each screw to get them to the proper length. Anti-seize was put on the threads of the new screws and the 10mm bolt that holds up the cannister/valve assembly just in case I need to re-visit this in a few years. So with all that prep work done the actual swap was done in a few minutes with no fuss once I got past that seized hose connector. Thanks again for posting this video!
@@asianmechanicguy6483 It's really cool that my daughter's into mechanical stuff. It's a lot of fun watching her try. When she's older maybe I can talk her into taking car repair as a High School option!
Ha, thanks man. I was taking my canister off and didn't know how to disconnect the big hose with the strange connector. I didn't want to break it. I ran to youtube and voila, someone posted themselves removing the canister! Press hard it says. I used pliers to squeeze the connector and it came right off.
sorry bro this video is been a while if that is a brand new one just compare it to the old one if u cant find where to put it in probably that is an extra o ring
I am dealing with this issue right now. I appreciate your video, but I am such a newbie I admit that some audio instruction would have helped if it were in my English language. Also, I am having a terrible time removing the orange electrical connector adjacent to the 2 way (squarish) valve on the side of the canister that is connected by 2 impossible to remove Philips screws. My aging hands don't have the strength as I had before. As I recall about this type of connector, your push in a bit and then up. Am I wrong?
Thanks, I got it by cleaning it up with some mildly soapy water and a toothbrush. In just a minute it was as easy as a brand new connector. The really nice thing you did for me was in your explanation of how to release that corrugated type hose. You said to squeeze it hard. I had so much trouble with that part until I listened to your video again. No one else's video of the six or so I looked at for this purpose gave specific instruction for that part. Thank you. Neither the charcoal canister or the shut-off valve appear to have anything wrong with them at all. The shut off valve is air tight. It looks very nearly as clean and perfect as the new valve I purchased. It has been on the car for 16 years and looks clean inside. No rust. I do have to get a 9 volt battery to test it electrically. I failed the emissions test only because the MIL light is on. Everything else tests out fine. I found out that Honda has had six service bulletins concerning this one code P1457 since 2013. It has apparently been a huge issue in which something is causing the MIL to come on despite no apparent problems. Have you experienced this? The last two years I have spent 700+ a year at emissions time with no parts even being replaced. Various good mechanics will have my car for over a week, charge a fortune, and not be able to find the leak. Somehow they get the emissions to pass and the light comes back on within the week. I got tired of wasting this money and am trying to deal with it myself. @@asianmechanicguy6483
@@seriouslynow22 good to hear you did. Here in Vancouver canada there's no more emissions test so if my customers had an evap problem i always advise them get from the junkyard and ill replace the whole its faster and easier..
In some canister hoses connection are really hard to remove u have to press it hard while pulling it up but sometimes u can break it too just do it slowly and had a lot of patience. Im glad you did it without breaking anything good job sir
Thank you! I am actually kind of an old lady, but I did fix my car! After replacing the shut off valve, which had failed electrically, and 3 Honda drive cycles I have no stored or pending codes and no incomplete monitors. And you were a big help! I have trouble with feeling and strength in some of my fingers. But your clear directions made it easy. Thank you sir!@@asianmechanicguy6483
Thank you for the great video. I have a code P0497 "Evaporative Emission System Low Purge Flow" Would I need to change both my purge valve and canister ? If so. Is the purge valve located on the bottom next to the canister ? Thanks
@@asianmechanicguy6483 Thank you for your response. I am a bit confused so there are three components to the EVAP system ? Vent, solenoid and cannister ? If so I bought these three items So would it be changing the sole 1. www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/canister-vent-valve-solenoid/dorman-canister-vent-valve-solenoid-911-809/179346_0_18345 2. www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/canister-purge-valve/dorman-canister-purge-valve-911-452/736523_146085_0 3. www.autozone.com/engine-management/vapor-canister/dorman-vapor-canister-911-766/764334_231323_0 I only purchased the purge valve and canister ? Do I need to purchase a solenoid too ? I was under the impression that those are the full kit
yup bro mostly there are 3 parts of your evap system ..if you do it ur self just buy those 3 parts but if we really wanna fix properly ur car we need to diagnose it first we need to check codes we need to to an smoke test but anyway if u had those 3 already why not install it right its easier and faster just replace it
@@asianmechanicguy6483 Sorry for the delayed response. For some reason i did not received a notification of your comment. I already took it to a mechanic for a smoke test. He quoted me 620 for "EVAP canister and Valves " So I assume that is the whole system. I bought the parts yesterday for cyber Monday. Links CODES: P0497-Evaporative Emission System Low Purge Flow ( Purge valve and shut off valve) ? www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/canister-purge-valve/duralast-canister-purge-valve-pv337/910150_523370_0 EVAP canister www.autozone.com/engine-management/vapor-canister/dorman-vapor-canister-911-766/764334_231323_0 I hope the fix is straightforward for the purge valve and shut off valve. Any tips are greatly appreciated
Rhaswin's [The Asian Mechanic Guy] Garage oh ok, I found this bomb site rockauto.com and still can’t believe the pricing on some of these parts. So I’ll probably just order a new canister they’re like $70-$80, and then the purge valve is like $25ish or less.
not really you can try a new one and you will be surprise how much cost is it not unless you are willing to spent hundred of dollars for an old car like this right..
Mekanikong Pinoy Rhaswin's Garage I meant Ricky as in a used one can have a life on days, weeks , or a month.. just wondering if it would be much more Safe to buy a new one in eBay 🤷🏽♂️
No one can predict how long used parts can last its always base on judgement of the mechanic and we base our judgement on our experience and yup its better to buy a new one but like i said my customer wont spent hundred of dollar for this old car its not worth it .and this used canister onlu cost us for $20 including purge solenoid hoses etc...
this is a very old videos that time i dont have smoke machine yet no bi directional scan tools so i did gamble to replace the evap canister but if i do this today it would be a different procedure cuz i got the proper tools now
Good video. Tried to replace my EVAP canister/valve, looks like rust will have me replace the charcoal canister to!
Hi Rhaswin. This video was a big help especially with taking off that top corrugated hose. My car's a 2003 Acura 1.7 EL which is the same as the Civic shown in the video. Pushing hard ultimately was the answer to getting off the hose but it took awhile to make sure I didn't get too western and cause damage to the connector. What I found hard was pulling up on the connector while pulling down on the cannister. The connector "buttons" on either side seemed jammed up too. My solution was two parts patience and one part adding a little muscle and a more practical method to add parting force. I used a narrow strap to wrap around the base of the neck and tied up the two ends to make a pulling handle. Then I got my hockey playing 12 year old daughter to pull on that while working on pushing in the two connector buttons, twisting it back and forth as much as I could. Then all of a sudden the buttons started to finally push in and POOF! the connector came off with a big cloud of dust! It seems like dirt must have become packed inside the connector causing the buttons to seize. We both had on safety glasses but definitely got a taste of the dirt cloud we made. I found the electrical connector on the valve a bit stuck on too but lightly squeezing the plastic release with pliers while pulling and wiggling at the same time did the trick. I did replace both the cannister and the solenoid valve at the same time. I also went to the autowreckers to remove a cannister complete with the hoses prior to the job. That gave me hoses that I could wash up but there's also a hose clamp that has a screw holding it to the cannister for the biggest hose - the screw holding on that clamp was just as rusted in as the two screws holding the solenoid valve so I ended up cutting off the screw head with a Dremel cutting wheel. I got M5 x 0.8 x 10mm screws from Lowes to mount both the hose clamp and new solenoid valve on the new cannister (since none were provided) - a nut was screwed on each screw to get them to the proper length. Anti-seize was put on the threads of the new screws and the 10mm bolt that holds up the cannister/valve assembly just in case I need to re-visit this in a few years. So with all that prep work done the actual swap was done in a few minutes with no fuss once I got past that seized hose connector. Thanks again for posting this video!
thats great it seems you enjoy fixing ur car with the help of ur little kiddo
@@asianmechanicguy6483 It's really cool that my daughter's into mechanical stuff. It's a lot of fun watching her try. When she's older maybe I can talk her into taking car repair as a High School option!
Ha, thanks man. I was taking my canister off and didn't know how to disconnect the big hose with the strange connector. I didn't want to break it. I ran to youtube and voila, someone posted themselves removing the canister! Press hard it says. I used pliers to squeeze the connector and it came right off.
No problem bro..
Thank you overfilled my gas and might need this. Great video!
Think ill go with a salvaged one as well. It is a reliable Honda part.
Hello!! Yo exchange it, no matter if the fuel tank is full?
yup you can replace the canister whether you had a full gas tank or emphty gas tank
Thank you!!!
So .... Was the misfires caused by this one leak ?
Nice video thanks. When you buy the canister does comes with all need it? Or i have to buy vent/purge valve separate?
everything is in there canister hoses vent and purge solenoid its from the junkyard and before you install it make sure both solenoid are working
Yes you do have to purchase both separately, I found them the cheapest at AutoZone at $75 and $35.
Ok but why is the whole point to v doing this 🤔
Hey Rhaswin, quick question. I ordered a new evap canister and it came with an extra O-ring but I’m not sure where it goes, any idea?
sorry bro this video is been a while if that is a brand new one just compare it to the old one if u cant find where to put it in probably that is an extra o ring
I am dealing with this issue right now. I appreciate your video, but I am such a newbie I admit that some audio instruction would have helped if it were in my English language. Also, I am having a terrible time removing the orange electrical connector adjacent to the 2 way (squarish) valve on the side of the canister that is connected by 2 impossible to remove Philips screws. My aging hands don't have the strength as I had before. As I recall about this type of connector, your push in a bit and then up. Am I wrong?
Just push it up it will take a couple of try..
Thanks, I got it by cleaning it up with some mildly soapy water and a toothbrush. In just a minute it was as easy as a brand new connector. The really nice thing you did for me was in your explanation of how to release that corrugated type hose. You said to squeeze it hard. I had so much trouble with that part until I listened to your video again. No one else's video of the six or so I looked at for this purpose gave specific instruction for that part. Thank you.
Neither the charcoal canister or the shut-off valve appear to have anything wrong with them at all. The shut off valve is air tight. It looks very nearly as clean and perfect as the new valve I purchased. It has been on the car for 16 years and looks clean inside. No rust. I do have to get a 9 volt battery to test it electrically. I failed the emissions test only because the MIL light is on. Everything else tests out fine. I found out that Honda has had six service bulletins concerning this one code P1457 since 2013. It has apparently been a huge issue in which something is causing the MIL to come on despite no apparent problems. Have you experienced this? The last two years I have spent 700+ a year at emissions time with no parts even being replaced. Various good mechanics will have my car for over a week, charge a fortune, and not be able to find the leak. Somehow they get the emissions to pass and the light comes back on within the week. I got tired of wasting this money and am trying to deal with it myself.
@@asianmechanicguy6483
@@seriouslynow22 good to hear you did. Here in Vancouver canada there's no more emissions test so if my customers had an evap problem i always advise them get from the junkyard and ill replace the whole its faster and easier..
In some canister hoses connection are really hard to remove u have to press it hard while pulling it up but sometimes u can break it too just do it slowly and had a lot of patience. Im glad you did it without breaking anything good job sir
Thank you! I am actually kind of an old lady, but I did fix my car! After replacing the shut off valve, which had failed electrically, and 3 Honda drive cycles I have no stored or pending codes and no incomplete monitors. And you were a big help! I have trouble with feeling and strength in some of my fingers. But your clear directions made it easy. Thank you sir!@@asianmechanicguy6483
Thank you for the great video. I have a code P0497 "Evaporative Emission System Low Purge Flow" Would I need to change both my purge valve and canister ? If so. Is the purge valve located on the bottom next to the canister ?
Thanks
i rather change vent solenoid cuz its connected on ur canister but if you diagnose that ur purge is faulty also then u can change it too
@@asianmechanicguy6483 Thank you for your response. I am a bit confused so there are three components to the EVAP system ? Vent, solenoid and cannister ? If so I bought these three items So would it be changing the sole
1. www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/canister-vent-valve-solenoid/dorman-canister-vent-valve-solenoid-911-809/179346_0_18345
2. www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/canister-purge-valve/dorman-canister-purge-valve-911-452/736523_146085_0
3. www.autozone.com/engine-management/vapor-canister/dorman-vapor-canister-911-766/764334_231323_0
I only purchased the purge valve and canister ? Do I need to purchase a solenoid too ? I was under the impression that those are the full kit
yup bro mostly there are 3 parts of your evap system ..if you do it ur self just buy those 3 parts but if we really wanna fix properly ur car we need to diagnose it first we need to check codes we need to to an smoke test but anyway if u had those 3 already why not install it right its easier and faster just replace it
@@asianmechanicguy6483 Sorry for the delayed response. For some reason i did not received a notification of your comment. I already took it to a mechanic for a smoke test. He quoted me 620 for "EVAP canister and Valves " So I assume that is the whole system. I bought the parts yesterday for cyber Monday.
Links
CODES: P0497-Evaporative Emission System Low Purge Flow
( Purge valve and shut off valve) ?
www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/canister-purge-valve/duralast-canister-purge-valve-pv337/910150_523370_0
EVAP canister
www.autozone.com/engine-management/vapor-canister/dorman-vapor-canister-911-766/764334_231323_0
I hope the fix is straightforward for the purge valve and shut off valve. Any tips are greatly appreciated
What did you do to fix it?
Hey if I order a new EVAP canister will it come with a Vent solenoid attached to it or is that something that comes separate?
i think because of the design the vent solenoid is included if u buy a new one mine is from junk yard
Rhaswin's [The Asian Mechanic Guy] Garage oh ok, I found this bomb site rockauto.com and still can’t believe the pricing on some of these parts. So I’ll probably just order a new canister they’re like $70-$80, and then the purge valve is like $25ish or less.
Did you replace it with a used one? Mmm that’s kinda risky isn’t it?
not really you can try a new one and you will be surprise how much cost is it not unless you are willing to spent hundred of dollars for an old car like this right..
Mekanikong Pinoy Rhaswin's Garage I meant Ricky as in a used one can have a life on days, weeks , or a month.. just wondering if it would be much more Safe to buy a new one in eBay 🤷🏽♂️
No one can predict how long used parts can last its always base on judgement of the mechanic and we base our judgement on our experience and yup its better to buy a new one but like i said my customer wont spent hundred of dollar for this old car its not worth it .and this used canister onlu cost us for $20 including purge solenoid hoses etc...
The tool never said anything about vent solenoid canister
this is a very old videos that time i dont have smoke machine yet no bi directional scan tools so i did gamble to replace the evap canister but if i do this today it would be a different procedure cuz i got the proper tools now
I have code p1457. Could this be the reason?
its related to the evap system check ur vent valve on the canister it might not working
This part of the car causes smell of gas ???
Yup if its has a leak it will smell gas actually excess gas goes in that canister
So its just 1 bolt 2 hoses
sorry its been a while that i did this just pause the video or watch it multiple times not sure how many bolts did i remove
@@asianmechanicguy6483 forshir