Hello. There are many guitar masters in Russia, but they do not share their skills with others, they are very greedy people. You give knowledge to ordinary people. Great respect to you.
Well, this is sure easier than all that transfer paper and reverse-the-image stuff. And it looks like the Z-Poxy doesn't alter or dull the colors! Thank you!
I have to admit, I'm really impressed with all your videos. I automatically give you a thumbs up every time I open one of your videos. Thanks a lot for taking the time to share your ideas.
Thanks so much for this video😄, you just helped my life, you will not understand😄 my client wants her picture on the guitar, I have been googling how to do that for hours now and I saw your video, been following you but yet to see this one then, thank God I found it now, so excited right now😁
Works great on utterly flat surface applications. Does not work well with guitars with rounded outer edges. Also, you may have to experiment with printing technologies, because I had a high end print done as a master and the colors ran under the z-poxy. But I was able to achieve the desired aesthetic via some modifications - 1. I trimmed the graphic to the extent of the flat part of the surface only. 2. I used a black sharpie to blacken the edges of the cut graphic. 3. I sprayed black spray paint at the edges of the graphic to soften the delineation (you could do the same with an airbrush) and then 4. I put the final Z-poxy coat on, followed by Clear Coat / Polish sanding and budding etc.
Oh my goooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooood, thank you. I have been scouring the internet for the past 3 days trying to find a better method of image transfer than the modge podge. Something about modge podge makes me think that you'll never get crystal clear pictures, and with a project that I'm planning, I need it crisp. One question though. Since this isn't relying on the white filler to give white tint to colors, would it be better for me to paint the body completely for an even coat, laminate and sand (where needed,) /THEN/ apply clear over the body? Thanks
Cool experiment, the results look great on both versions you did (mod podge vs. z-poxy). I guess choosing between the two methods would just depend on the style of your art/graphics? Thank you for showing us your technique!
There are some affordable 13 x 19 printers on the market now, I found a used HP Photosmart large format photo printer at a local thrift store for $10. Have you also tried iron on print paper or water-slide decal paper? (Both would require reverse printing technique.) I have a need to cover the entire outside surface of a Telecaster with a seamless printout, I may have to create texture maps in a 3D program to accomplish this...
yeah leaving the paper on the guitar without the reversing image and paper removal DEFINITELY is more up my alley...hate epoxys though...i'm wondering if elmers glue may do me...we'll see...nice work, i'm gonna try this later.
How much prep work do I have to do on the guitar body if I will be doing this on both sides? Should I paint the body with a primer? Must I smooth everything with wood filler first or does the paper smooth the wood out enough. How high of a grit do I need to sand the wood to prepare it for the lamination? What's the best brush-on polyurethane to use for this technique? Sorry to ask so many questions, but this will be my first attempt at a DIY. Thanks
Cool stuff! Hey just thought I would share something I found recently - I have switched from using xacto to using disposable scalpels for real precision stuff. They are super cheap and quite significantly sharper than xacto blades for some reason. Anywho, just fyi, thanks for all of your cool vids!
awesome video, thank you for the tips. what would you use if you wanted the graphics to have that "old "yellow look, like old comics or news papers. Thanks
When designing your collage of sci-fi images, what software tool did you use? And secondly, how did you get the shape of the guitar body into the software you used to create the collage? It appears the collage making software recognised the boundaries/borders of the guitar shape. Any additional insight is greatly appreciated. Thanks
Trace Ridpath I used Adobe Illustrator and placed the images in a document large enough for a guitar body and used an outline shape of the body to mask the collage.
So is that just regular printer paper? And zpoxy doesn't bleed the image at all? That is extremely cool. I haven't seen your other video on this. I'll probably check it out too. But this looks super easy
Hi. I like your videos. What I'd like to know is the lifespan of colors on the guitar. How long can we hope to have the same quality of colors? Are they going to fade like regular printed photos? Thank you for your answer.
It will only fade if left out in the sun. Eventually. Who knows how long that would take. However, if you leave a guitar in the sun, you deserve whatever happens to it.
The holes for the controls were drilled before and the holes for the bridge were drilled after. The control holes don't require absolute precision positioning, but the bridge holes do. For that reason, I waited to drill the bridge holes after the art was laminated and the neck was installed. That way I could line up the bridge with the neck.
Do you think that mixing zpoxy with things like mica powders would be valid for an easy and relatively quick finish?Thanks again for your great content...
Looks great! You don't have to worry about the Inc bleeding when you use the z poxy ? I have an Inc jet printer. I guess you need to test on a piece of scrap.
From what I understand, the fact that the z poxy reaches the ink from the back, through the paper, keeps the ink in place. A mistake would be to apply the top coat of z poxy just after applying the paper, because the ink would not be bonded to the poxy yet.
Does crystalac finish work like 2 part epoxy. I’ve pained a design with acrylics on my guitar and am looking for the perfect finish. I don’t have a sprayer so I would have to brush this. Your opinion would be great. Thanks
What if my guitar had a binding? Remove and cut the picture in and then reapply binding? Or remove binding and do a round routing on the top. I think it's not possible to leave the binding on and cut the transfer to where the binding edge meets the guitar.
Do the graphics look better if you use Photo Paper instead of regular paper, or is the Photo Paper too thick? What kind of primer did you use over the unfinished wood?
Yeah, I was actually thinking of doing it the other way around for silly and overly complex reasons. But you're right, one type of clear layer over another is dumb. I'm just going to sand and re-finish.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks. Last time, i used a epoxy that wasnt clear, more like an ambar color. Fortunately it was on wood so it looks like a varnish. Do you think metallic paper will work, like those to print photos? it should right ?
Hi , im gonna try this method on my own project , but i have little question . I want to do this stuff on guitar with binding, what would you do. Secure the binding before the zpoxy magic , or scrape the zpoxy from binding??
No way would I attempt it with binding in place. I would do apply the graphic first, coat with Z-Poxy and rout then binding channel. Then I would glue on the binding, scrape it flush with the surface and cleat coat.
@@HighlineGuitars ok , another question , acrylic paint , then zpoxy 2 coats , can i clear coat with poly paint ?? ty for answers , they are very helpfull :)
@@HighlineGuitars mainly curious because I’ve used this technique with a different brand of epoxy and the resin came off in one piece away from the printed paper.
Z-Poxy is very sensitive to temperature. If you want it to level better you can warm it with a hairdryer (paint stripper). Keep the hairdryer (or paint stripper) one to two foot (30 - 60cm) away from the surface to prevent overheating. The Z-poxy will cure faster and way much harder than at lower temperatures. The down side is that you might blow dust on to the surface with the airflow. Be careful because the Z-Poxy will get very runny when warm/hot and you might blow it over the edges with the airflow! Hot curing will make Z-Poxy glass like hard.
@Thom Waters I did a test on a spare block of wood and some flat black spray paint and found that because the paper absorbs the z-poxy it became dark or tinted by the colour behind it. Looks like flat white is the way to go
An ink drawing should work fine. I would recommend doing a quick scribble with the same pen on the same type of paper and test the technique on some scrap wood. I'd hate it if the hand-drawn art was ruined by something incompatible with my technique.
To some extent, it will level. You can also thin it with denatured alcohol to help it level better. However, I find it easy to level sand after a couple of coats.
I see, thanks for the advice. The company I work for is starting to build guitars and I'll basically be the guy who does the painting so I've been really looking into going some graphic stuff like this as well.
Personally, I would use a surfboard epoxy like System Three's SB 112 because of its clarity and UV inhibitors. But it is quite a bit more expensive than Zpoxy. Great technique Chris!
The image,I did find the link to eguitarplans, but I'm not sure if the right one is there. My wife purchased a Bex gears DYI kit. It is the Fender Stratocaster version I believe. This is my first attempt at building a guitar and I liked your video on transferring an image. Thanks for your help.
I really enjoy learning from your channel. But I would have preferred the graphic image be oriented so it's seen properly while the guitar player is playing rather than sitting on a guitar stand.
Beware of the Tone Police..... Ooo you know what I mean the thin cracked lacquer is the righteous path brigade. I'm not sure all the Tone wood hype is correct. Somehow I got a cheap Ibanez that has the wrong wood with the thick rock hard poly finish that sounds great. I have other Ibanez guitars that cost much more with better build quality that can't touch it. Tone wood with thinner finish and better electronics. Should be better. Not! Got lucky and don't know what is magic about it.
@@HighlineGuitars I would like to agree I bring something to the game. However I have to just sing the praise of a cheap Ibanez that some how puts other much more expensive guitars I have to shame. It got me on a Ibanez buying binge. The cheap Gio still ranks above them all. I have since bought a Explorer that has the feel you describe and it also has the tone to match. But it has nothing in common with the cheap Gio. It also cost much more..
You should consider taking this video down or inputting more information. While the thot is nice, myself, David Imrie, And Ashleigh Carbonie have all done damage to very expensive guitars using Zpoxy. I used the same type you did, and the same thing happened to both mine & David Imrie s guitars, it went on nice & thick and smooth as can be, as it started to dry is slowly kept separating till it dried like mountains. This was over a very well prepped black paint sanded & prep cleaned to 400 grit.
I'm not going to take down a video because a couple of guys I've never heard of screwed up. I and many others have used Z-Poxy without issue. In fact, that guitar still looks brand new 4 years later.
Видеоклипы
It's so cute that you 'invented' decoupage 😉
Hey everyone, I pinned the above comment for obvious reasons.
It's so cute that you liberated "Catcher In The Rye" for your tag. GTFOH hypocrite
Hello. There are many guitar masters in Russia, but they do not share their skills with others, they are very greedy people. You give knowledge to ordinary people. Great respect to you.
Well, this is sure easier than all that transfer paper and reverse-the-image stuff. And it looks like the Z-Poxy doesn't alter or dull the colors! Thank you!
You’re the man. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a bunch.
I have to admit, I'm really impressed with all your videos. I automatically give you a thumbs up every time I open one of your videos. Thanks a lot for taking the time to share your ideas.
The results of this method greatly exceed the previous. Very professional result. Great job!
Thanks so much for this video😄, you just helped my life, you will not understand😄
my client wants her picture on the guitar, I have been googling how to do that for hours now and I saw your video, been following you but yet to see this one then, thank God I found it now, so excited right now😁
Wow! That Looks amazing!
I bet Art Resin would work really well for this technique too! Crystal clear and non yellowing. Nice work!
Dig it. Graphics, fabrics, metals lots of new mediums to use for a fresh look.
if you have pickup covers you could use the cutouts to cover them as well. This is an AWESOME idea.
I love your channel, Chris
Good good on the list guitar that is really good texter and good a good practice makes perfect
Nice. This is the video I needed. Thank you.
You are so welcome!
Great tips!
I've been looking for another way to do fabric top guitars, and I think I'll give the Z Poxy a shot.
Looks great!
Works great on utterly flat surface applications. Does not work well with guitars with rounded outer edges. Also, you may have to experiment with printing technologies, because I had a high end print done as a master and the colors ran under the z-poxy. But I was able to achieve the desired aesthetic via some modifications - 1. I trimmed the graphic to the extent of the flat part of the surface only. 2. I used a black sharpie to blacken the edges of the cut graphic. 3. I sprayed black spray paint at the edges of the graphic to soften the delineation (you could do the same with an airbrush) and then 4. I put the final Z-poxy coat on, followed by Clear Coat / Polish sanding and budding etc.
Pretty sweet! 👍
Cool technique.
Thank you!
That's supercool!!
thank you, yea!
Very cool. Please add on a finished photo when it's all done and put together.
I think, if I do this, I'll put the part that I cut away from the pickup cavities in the bottom of the cavity, just because.
Oh my goooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooood, thank you. I have been scouring the internet for the past 3 days trying to find a better method of image transfer than the modge podge. Something about modge podge makes me think that you'll never get crystal clear pictures, and with a project that I'm planning, I need it crisp. One question though. Since this isn't relying on the white filler to give white tint to colors, would it be better for me to paint the body completely for an even coat, laminate and sand (where needed,) /THEN/ apply clear over the body? Thanks
Cool experiment, the results look great on both versions you did (mod podge vs. z-poxy). I guess choosing between the two methods would just depend on the style of your art/graphics? Thank you for showing us your technique!
Gorgeous
Great video Chris.
If you could, would you print the graphics on one single sheet of paper to avoid possible visible juncture between the pieces?
There are some affordable 13 x 19 printers on the market now, I found a used HP Photosmart large format photo printer at a local thrift store for $10. Have you also tried iron on print paper or water-slide decal paper? (Both would require reverse printing technique.) I have a need to cover the entire outside surface of a Telecaster with a seamless printout, I may have to create texture maps in a 3D program to accomplish this...
yeah leaving the paper on the guitar without the reversing image and paper removal DEFINITELY is more up my alley...hate epoxys though...i'm wondering if elmers glue may do me...we'll see...nice work, i'm gonna try this later.
did you try the elmers glue?
Cool!
Looks fantastic! Thank you for the instruction!
Jack ~'()'~
Canada Manly!
How much prep work do I have to do on the guitar body if I will be doing this on both sides? Should I paint the body with a primer? Must I smooth everything with wood filler first or does the paper smooth the wood out enough. How high of a grit do I need to sand the wood to prepare it for the lamination? What's the best brush-on polyurethane to use for this technique? Sorry to ask so many questions, but this will be my first attempt at a DIY. Thanks
Cool stuff! Hey just thought I would share something I found recently - I have switched from using xacto to using disposable scalpels for real precision stuff. They are super cheap and quite significantly sharper than xacto blades for some reason. Anywho, just fyi, thanks for all of your cool vids!
Great tip!
awesome video, thank you for the tips.
what would you use if you wanted the graphics to have that "old "yellow look, like old comics or news papers.
Thanks
I would use Photoshop to mimic the old newsprint look.
When designing your collage of sci-fi images, what software tool did you use? And secondly, how did you get the shape of the guitar body into the software you used to create the collage? It appears the collage making software recognised the boundaries/borders of the guitar shape. Any additional insight is greatly appreciated. Thanks
Trace Ridpath I used Adobe Illustrator and placed the images in a document large enough for a guitar body and used an outline shape of the body to mask the collage.
just wondering if this technique would work on vinyl wrap or if there is a way of doing that on a wrap?
So is that just regular printer paper? And zpoxy doesn't bleed the image at all? That is extremely cool. I haven't seen your other video on this. I'll probably check it out too. But this looks super easy
Helllo buds...i wanted to know whats clear coats..is it those glossy finish ?or
Can I use a picture from a thrift shop to do that to my guitar?
I always see cool picture printed on paper on frames.
Hello. Great video. Thanks for sharing. If I am doing this with a black guitar , do I need to paint it white before starting
Test on scrap. I don't know if it will work over black. Me thinks it won't.
This Z poxy wont cause any ink runs right? Or bleeding?
Hi. I like your videos. What I'd like to know is the lifespan of colors on the guitar. How long can we hope to have the same quality of colors? Are they going to fade like regular printed photos? Thank you for your answer.
It will only fade if left out in the sun. Eventually. Who knows how long that would take. However, if you leave a guitar in the sun, you deserve whatever happens to it.
This is super cool! Thanks for sharing. What weight of paper are you using?
20lbs.
@@HighlineGuitars Great tutorial! Is there any reason to not use printed vinyl? Especially for an arch top guitar?
What about the holes for the vol pots or the holes for the bridge? Did you do drill those out afterward?
The holes for the controls were drilled before and the holes for the bridge were drilled after. The control holes don't require absolute precision positioning, but the bridge holes do. For that reason, I waited to drill the bridge holes after the art was laminated and the neck was installed. That way I could line up the bridge with the neck.
With this you started with a body sanded down and smoothed to 220 Grit? Could this be performed on an already painted guitar?
I've never tried it with a pre-painted guitar body.
Wow! I do want to ask how you would do this technique around 45-90 degree bent rounded edges?
I wouldn't.
Do you think that mixing zpoxy with things like mica powders would be valid for an easy and relatively quick finish?Thanks again for your great content...
Yes, absolutely. Experiment!
Have you tried using the Solarez asyour finishing clear coating on the image transfers... ?
Nope.
How about showing the finished guitar????
Awesome technique!
Can I use wipe on poly as a clear coat over this?
Regards
I'm not sure. The only way to know would be to do some tests to see if it'll work.
Question... How good will the inkjet ink picture look after several years? Isn't it wearing off over time and UV exposure?
It looks as good today as it did when it was made. The inks used are UV resistant.
I wanna see this finished with hardware and a sound sample
No photos of the finished guitar. It was shipped out before I had a chance to take any. I never record sound samples. There's no point.
Great idea! How can I print an image to the exact dimensions of my guitar?
I used an outline I created for the CNC file as a mask for the design and printed it at 100% on multiple sheets.
Would this work on a carved top, like a Les Paul?
Love your videos, by the way.
Yup.
I would love to see how you made the image and made sure it would fit the guitar so perfect.
Uh oh, not you got me thinking about a future project!
@@HighlineGuitars would really be interested to see it.
@@HighlineGuitars any chance of this happening?
I’d like to see as well
Did this suggestion ever happen?
Looks great! You don't have to worry about the Inc bleeding when you use the z poxy ? I have an Inc jet printer. I guess you need to test on a piece of scrap.
From what I understand, the fact that the z poxy reaches the ink from the back, through the paper, keeps the ink in place. A mistake would be to apply the top coat of z poxy just after applying the paper, because the ink would not be bonded to the poxy yet.
I tried this w/ zpoxy and a guitar. The Abigail guitar, sadly the 90% of the ink faded to white. I guess u need to use a laminator 1st.
Does crystalac finish work like 2 part epoxy. I’ve pained a design with acrylics on my guitar and am looking for the perfect finish. I don’t have a sprayer so I would have to brush this. Your opinion would be great. Thanks
No. It's a 1k water-based polyurethane.
@@HighlineGuitars will it leave brush strokes?
Is that white primer, or paint? And, what grit did you sand it down to?
Great job!
I sprayed 5 coats of flat white acrylic after sanding with 220, 320 and 400 grit.
What if my guitar had a binding? Remove and cut the picture in and then reapply binding? Or remove binding and do a round routing on the top.
I think it's not possible to leave the binding on and cut the transfer to where the binding edge meets the guitar.
I would remove the binding, apply the picture, trim it to the edge of the binding channel with a fresh razor blade and reattach the binding.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks, there had to be a way.
Do the graphics look better if you use Photo Paper instead of regular paper, or is the Photo Paper too thick? What kind of primer did you use over the unfinished wood?
Photo paper is too thick. I used regular white acrylic paint for a base coat/primer.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks
thanks
is it necessary to prime with paint? i have a black guitar i want to try this on
It's always a good idea to prime before painting.
When you say nitro gloves, is that the same as nitrile. I've searched for nitro gloves in the UK and all I get is nitrile.
You miss heard what I said. I said nitrile.
Hello sir .as a beginner what is the best finishing coat you suggest,and what is the best for a pro?
Crystalac Brite Tone
I've been wondering recently about putting enamel clear coat on epoxy. So that should be no problem then?
Why put an enamel clear coat over the epoxy? Just use the epoxy as your clear coat.
Yeah, I was actually thinking of doing it the other way around for silly and overly complex reasons. But you're right, one type of clear layer over another is dumb. I'm just going to sand and re-finish.
What is the paint u used on the body before you used the z-poxy
Probably a water-based acrylic from Hobby Lobby.
where did you get your template to make the design???
I make them.
what could be a substitute to Z poxy? in my country they dont sell it and shipping companies dont want to mess with cans and sprays
Z-Poxy is basically a very thin, slow curing epoxy. Any epoxy with similar properties should work.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks. Last time, i used a epoxy that wasnt clear, more like an ambar color. Fortunately it was on wood so it looks like a varnish. Do you think metallic paper will work, like those to print photos? it should right ?
Hi , im gonna try this method on my own project , but i have little question . I want to do this stuff on guitar with binding, what would you do. Secure the binding before the zpoxy magic , or scrape the zpoxy from binding??
and one more , do i need to paint the top with white or i can try it on raw wood ??
No way would I attempt it with binding in place. I would do apply the graphic first, coat with Z-Poxy and rout then binding channel. Then I would glue on the binding, scrape it flush with the surface and cleat coat.
@@m0ch3r If you don't paint it white, you'll see the wood through the graphic.
@@HighlineGuitars ok , another question , acrylic paint , then zpoxy 2 coats , can i clear coat with poly paint ?? ty for answers , they are very helpfull :)
Does the bond between the paper and Zpoxy topcoat seem as if it will not separate?
It’s epoxy, so no.
@@HighlineGuitars mainly curious because I’ve used this technique with a different brand of epoxy and the resin came off in one piece away from the printed paper.
Does the Z Poxy level itself pretty well before it dries and cures?
Z-Poxy is very sensitive to temperature. If you want it to level better you can warm it with a hairdryer (paint stripper). Keep the hairdryer (or paint stripper) one to two foot (30 - 60cm) away from the surface to prevent overheating. The Z-poxy will cure faster and way much harder than at lower temperatures. The down side is that you might blow dust on to the surface with the airflow. Be careful because the Z-Poxy will get very runny when warm/hot and you might blow it over the edges with the airflow! Hot curing will make Z-Poxy glass like hard.
Does the paint on the guitar have to be white for this method?
@Thom Waters I did a test on a spare block of wood and some flat black spray paint and found that because the paper absorbs the z-poxy it became dark or tinted by the colour behind it. Looks like flat white is the way to go
i assume this technique will work with a hand drawn pen drawing, right?
An ink drawing should work fine. I would recommend doing a quick scribble with the same pen on the same type of paper and test the technique on some scrap wood. I'd hate it if the hand-drawn art was ruined by something incompatible with my technique.
so does the zpoxy settle itself down completely flat and leveled?
To some extent, it will level. You can also thin it with denatured alcohol to help it level better. However, I find it easy to level sand after a couple of coats.
I see, thanks for the advice. The company I work for is starting to build guitars and I'll basically be the guy who does the painting so I've been really looking into going some graphic stuff like this as well.
Hello, how might I get in contact with you about having you do a guitar body for me like this project?
I don't make parts or accept commission work. Sorry.
How do you deal with a very uneven surface after you have done a few coats of epoxy?
I level sand (carefully) if the surface is uneven. I usually start with 400 grit and work my way up to 800 grit.
@@HighlineGuitars Thank you - really excited to see how this turns out!
@@HighlineGuitars My finish is cloudy from the sanding. Will clear coat solve that?
@@TheKloneKilla Yes.
I keep hearing people talk about napa in their videos. I can't find out what it is online. Could you let me know what it is,please?
Naphtha. It's a solvent.
I spelled it wrong. You'd think it would still come up in a search. jeeesh! Thx for letting me know. 👍
What about colorfastness? Will the graphics fade over the course of time, or will they still remain bright?
They will remain bright forever as long as it is kept out of direct sunlight.
Personally, I would use a surfboard epoxy like System Three's SB 112 because of its clarity and UV inhibitors. But it is quite a bit more expensive than Zpoxy. Great technique Chris!
LONG WORKING TIME
How did you create the template?
For the body or the image?
The image,I did find the link to eguitarplans, but I'm not sure if the right one is there. My wife purchased a Bex gears DYI kit. It is the Fender Stratocaster version I believe. This is my first attempt at building a guitar and I liked your video on transferring an image. Thanks for your help.
Hey Chris, how did you avoid the amber hue with z-poxy? Thanks
I didn’t. It’s there, just not a big deal.
@@HighlineGuitars oki doki, thanks!
@@HighlineGuitars I see, no worries.
No respirator???
No need.
Easier with a white guitar, or your laser printer need to able to print white.
I really enjoy learning from your channel. But I would have preferred the graphic image be oriented so it's seen properly while the guitar player is playing rather than sitting on a guitar stand.
The guitar will be for display only.
You break my heart, how you choose to pronounce Z(ed) in Z-poxy.
That's how the company that makes it pronounces it.
Beware of the Tone Police..... Ooo you know what I mean the thin cracked lacquer is the righteous path brigade. I'm not sure all the Tone wood hype is correct. Somehow I got a cheap Ibanez that has the wrong wood with the thick rock hard poly finish that sounds great. I have other Ibanez guitars that cost much more with better build quality that can't touch it. Tone wood with thinner finish and better electronics. Should be better. Not! Got lucky and don't know what is magic about it.
My theory is that tone often comes from how a specific guitar, because of it's "feel," enhances a player's technique, which brings tone along with it.
@@HighlineGuitars I would like to agree I bring something to the game. However I have to just sing the praise of a cheap Ibanez that some how puts other much more expensive guitars I have to shame. It got me on a Ibanez buying binge. The cheap Gio still ranks above them all. I have since bought a Explorer that has the feel you describe and it also has the tone to match. But it has nothing in common with the cheap Gio. It also cost much more..
You should consider taking this video down or inputting more information. While the thot is nice, myself, David Imrie, And Ashleigh Carbonie have all done damage to very expensive guitars using Zpoxy. I used the same type you did, and the same thing happened to both mine & David Imrie s guitars, it went on nice & thick and smooth as can be, as it started to dry is slowly kept separating till it dried like mountains. This was over a very well prepped black paint sanded & prep cleaned to 400 grit.
I'm not going to take down a video because a couple of guys I've never heard of screwed up. I and many others have used Z-Poxy without issue. In fact, that guitar still looks brand new 4 years later.