Pore Filling Koa with Epoxy (Z-Poxy) Beau Hannam Guitars and Ukuleles
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
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I recommend applying a thin coat at least on the first application to minimize problems associated with surface tensions which cause graters- which all goes away when you scrape it down but its annoying.
Epoxy used in this is Z-Poxy PT-40 (a self leveling finishing epoxy).- amzn.to/3rhBHPj
Spreaders- amzn.to/3tgzQfi
I've heard from some luthiers they got shrink back of the Z-poxy pore filler after buffing, then those luthiers tried WEST systems and got no shrink back. Having said that, I've also heard from other luthiers that they got shrink back after using WEST system......
So, aim for minimal heat when buffing with any pore fill.
Also, I pretty sure the pin holes above the pores were caused by leaving the epoxy too thick on the first coat. It's caused by opposing surface tensions of the wood and epoxy on the first coat.
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I have been using z-poxy for years it's the best pore filler i've ever used.
I’ve used to a few times and it’s good. I prefer System Three Silver tip (recoat on 2 hours without sanding so you can do 3-4 applications in a day!)
Thanks, I will have to try it out.@@BeauHannamGuitars
Pretty sure the cloudiness is amine blush. You can use infusion bagging release film without any of the vacuum components if you want the smooth surface. It’s usually just called vacuum bagging film. I think I paid about $20 (6m x 1m). Avoid what is called peel ply unless you want a rough finish for gluing to. From memory, amine blush is exposure to air and moisture. You should wipe away amine from cured epoxy with a damp rag prior to sanding it so you don’t sand it into the finish. If you choose to try infusion resin it’s extremely thin, kind of like a thick oil, just a heads up.
@@wombatau I didn’t know about the blush until recently. It’s never seemed to be a problem but if I use west systems I rub it off now, but I use system three for pore filling now.
This makes me appreciate my hand built instruments even more. Thanks Beau!!
:)
Super informative, and I appreciate that. About 20 minutes longer than it needed to be though. . .
Hahahha- I’m newer videos will be somewhat edited in future
...can I use the zpoxy on the back, let it set and then do the sides (sides and back are East Indian Rosewood)?
You sure can
I have used system three epoxy clear coat finish. It took 3 coats but filled completely.i let each coat set up 72 hrs before sanding.
Nice- I think all the good epoxies are as good as each other and take the same amount of applications to fill.
Seems like z poxy is nowhere to be found these days, what a pity! I used to love this stuff. What do you use instead? Back to the WEST system?
Either west systems of system three silver tip (which is best)
Excellent. Do you think it would work on wenge ?
yep- any pore filler also works on wenge, it just takes a few more applications
Hey Beau, thanks again for another informative video. So just to make sure I got it right: you're aiming for completely eliminating any cloudy/opaque look? Basically getting all the way to bare wood?
Definitely aim for no opaqueness. Some
Leave a film of epoxy on, some sane back to bare wood. I always sand through in spots, then end up sanding all back to wood.
Your work is very admirable and your videos are great information... thank you for posting your expertise... Mike
Thanks- my pleasure :)
Hi there sir, would it affect the sound of the instrument?
No tone change - it’s all removed
Hello Beau, I have some very old (1960’s variety) Brazilian Rosewood that I’m going to use on my next (3rd) guitar. Should I think about using Zpoxy finishing resin on the Rosewood that will be ‘inside’ the guitar as well as the exterior?
Your comments would be very much appreciated -
Mike
I wouldn't seal the inside that much- just a few coats of shellac is good. If any cracks happen to the body, it makes gluing a cleat to the inside slightly harder as you have to remove the shellac to glue the cleat- so dont use epoxy on the inside as it would be to hard to remove.
Thank you for that insight Beau, I always wondered why no finish on the interior surfaces, and now I know why... thank you very much for such a timely and professional response... and it makes perfect sense...
Mike
Good job. I have tons of beautiful koa and Brazilian rosewood veneer and am having fun making "plywood" bodied instruments (with solid spruce sound boards). Someday I want to see a scientific test proving, once and for all, body wood has virtually no effect on tone and if you double blinded players they would not be able to guess one from another. I use Wests epoxy for the laminations and when they are removed from the mold the bleed through fills many pores "from the inside". This epoxy cures like glass. Just like Scotch/hot hide glue. You will also find if you scrape and then do not sand before the finish is applies the shimmer of the wood will be enhanced. I would ditch the cloudy sanding sealer. Heat generated from buffing might shrink some softer curing epoxies. They should rely on their sandpaper mostly and lightly buff only the finest scratches. Very nice work!
thanks
does adding epoxy to your ukulele change the sound or effect it?
I’ll say no, but if it did, it would make it slightly stiffer and raise the pitch very slightly.
Beau, Do you always put a sound port on all of your Ike’s? Also does that sound port improve the overall tone of the uke? Sorry if I’m being ignorant but I’m just trying too learn. Thank you Scott
Not always but mostly.- just depends on what the customer wants. Ill say it has no effect on tone.
i can use on top?
If you had a hardwood top you could do this- no need of a softwood top.
I know you said you sanded it and blew the air first, but what are your thoughts on putting a sealer before the z poxy?
That would be totally fine
Did you end up covering your next instrument with wax paper as mentioned here? If so, how did it turn out?
I still use the wax paper on all headstocks with burl/epoxy. I still haven't tried it on a body- for no other reason then i forgot!
@@BeauHannamGuitars fair enough. Curious to know as I’m thinking of switching from Truoil to Zpoxy on my ukuleles. Mainly due to the more glossy finish. I mostly use maple, walnuts, and mahogany for my backs and sides and spruce / cedar for tops and I just truoil the whole thing. What would you recommend? I was thinking of French polish but I’m not at the stage where I’m proficient enough to try it out
@@dassouki all finishes work just fine- it just depends how much time you want to put into it all- gloss anything takes the longest, but don't protect any more then satin.
How did you end up fixing the voids at 23:56?
Stuck to my original plan and sanded it all back to wood. Those voids were just in the epoxy from surface tension
@@BeauHannamGuitars thanks, well Im using veneer so sanding down to it is too risky. Could a 2nd coat to vill the voids be an option?
@@JurianHamstra you could- best is to just wipe all the epoxy off with something like a credit card then do a second coat. This only happened as I put it on thick. I know squish it in all the pores and wipe it off the surface, then do a second coat
Woooooow
I've never used Z poxy. Is it made by Z Germans?
hahaha- must be!
Is it possible to make the whole finish with z poxy? Why not?
Some people have done that. Apparently you can buff epoxy to a high shine and have it as the mina/only finish, but i've never done it.
@@BeauHannamGuitars Thanks a lot for the reply. I dont even want a nice sheen. I want to sand it flat and make it satin/matte with abresive pads. I actually want to make a polyurethane finish but cant find these stuff in my country. Also tried polyester (3k) but when polyester goes too thin it gets soft, when it goes thick it sucks. Any advices for me?
@@loneliboy1234 Just as you said- apply it thick enough so you can sand it flat to say 2000 and your done :)- Lucky you!!!!!!!!! YOu can also buy wipe on Polyurethane in a can or a spray on versions which you might be able to get??? If its just for you, then anything that dries hard works- even CA (super) glue.
thank you Beau . should you use a heat gun on low to help it set up / melt into the pores ?
Heat quickens the chemical reaction time. A wipe down with naptha and at least a thin first coat seems the trick for those tension bubble void things (they aren't really bubbles, or voids). Also, by "thin" I mean what is left on the surface- i left it pretty thick in this video
@@BeauHannamGuitars thank you
So that beautiful instrument can no longer breath, to me this is criminal. why not use an oil finish or better yet carbon fiber.
Perhaps it would be prudent for you to watch some of my sound samples and read some reviews on my instruments before saying such idiotic things.
Do you honestly think I would do something that sacrifices any tone ...
@@BeauHannamGuitars I would love to watch the above mentioned videos. Can you tell me specifically which ones?
@@RileyPorter Here are some professional videos- vimeo.com/search?q=beau+hannam
Here are my own videos "Sound Sample" playlist- the later numbered videos use an external mic and have better sound quality. the early ones just used the iphone mic.
ruclips.net/p/PL3Mj3VOjSC3t_xwyisQhf4H5Wuwm6JEM1
@@BeauHannamGuitars oh yah I have watched grimes with your ukes. They are great! I thought you might have had a video that was talking about sound differences with epoxy vs no epoxy etc. I am. just getting started on my build and have been soaking up the information. Thanks!
@@RileyPorter i've not done a video on that but it would probably make a popular and argument ridden video!- the answer is there is no discernable sound difference between all pore fillers if they dry hard. Also, any ***thinly** applied finish is good- so both Nitro and the various Poly finishes are good if applied thinly. French polish is naturally very thin-
That would be perfect for a spalted top but watch you kill this instrument makes me cringe.
"Watch me kill this instrument"!!!- HAHAHAHHAHAHA
- im guessing you didn't watch till the end or you are just assuming i left it all thick???