Epoxy Pore Filling Part 3: Prep & Application of Third Coat and Prep for Finishing
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- CAUTION!!! Make sure you are using Z-Poxy Finishing Resin, West 105/207, MAS Low Viscosity with Slow Hardener or similar epoxy intended for finishing work!!! DO NOT USE Z-Poxy 5, 15, or 30 minute structural epoxies - these will not work well for the job.
This is the final video in a three part series covering epoxy pore filling for luthiers. For more on epoxy pore filling, go to Official Luthier's Forum (www.luthiersforum.com) or Musical Instrument Makers Forum (www.mimf.com). Video courtesy of Todd Stock and Greenridge Guitars
Not mentioned, but if the final coat of epoxy is difficult to squeegee to a very thin, even coat, it can be thinned by 5-10% by volume with denatured alcohol. Thinning beyond 10% may result in a softer cure...not what you want. Epoxy pore fill is suitable for nitro, nitro over vinyl sealer, cat polyurethane, etc. Always use a compatible sealer and topcoat, or use a barrier coat of shellac to seal things.
Thanks Todd for a really excellent and thorough series on pore-filling with Z-poxy. Your demonstration really takes my guesswork and first time jitters away. I used 2 shellac sealer coats under the Z-poxy and it worked well on Indian RW and Spanish Cedar. I was concerned with Z-poxy possibly causing RW bleed over light maple bindings so I used CA over the bindings first, but maybe it would have been O.K. to use the z-poxy first on the bindings alone as you suggested to @eXkillswitch11.
Hi Todd, thank you very much for these pore filling videos, it really helped me in deciding what to use as it's my first time. Will you be doing a video on applying a sealer and finish? thanks
@madhattr88 Z-Poxy, like all other epoxies, can produce an amine blush if there is unreacted resin or unreacted hardener. This amine blush can interfere with finishes which dry by polymerization, such as oils or varnishes. I suggest a coat of shellac between z-poxy and truoil or other varnish. Another alternative is to wash the amine blush off the surface before finishing with drying oils or varnishes; however, it can be difficult to verify that all of the blush is removed, so shellac works.
@eXkillswitch11 Not a problem...if in doubt, seal your bindings and purrs with epoxy before the main part of the body...a gloved finger makes a great application tool.
I shoot one coat of vinyl sealer and 7 coats of Mohawk/Behlens classic instrument lacquer...I thin no more than 10% with lacquer thinner...just enough to make the finish flow out and for properly atomize in my Fuji XPC HVLP gun and MM4 turbine system. I sand between the first four coats of clear and the last three, and see a final lacquer thickness of between 3.5 and 4.5 mils (.0035"-.0045").
Why do you say other epoxies don't work well for this job? I used Bob Smith Industries 30 minute epoxy on a guitar years ago the finish still looks great. I'm using epoxy again for the first time since, and have already ordered CECCORP epoxy. I'm just wondering if you had a bad experience, is it more work, or what was the reason?
Thanks for the great demo.
The entire guitar gets a coat of vinyl seller after the epoxy is sanded and prepped, then 6-7 coats of classic instrument lacquer...7 coats on the sides, back, and neck, and 6 coats on the soundboard. if there are any spots that end up a little low (e.g., a purfling line around the rosette, etc.), I will drop fill between sets of lacquer coats, and again once the finish is on.
Thanks for the video Todd, do you use Behlen vinyl sealer?
Amasing! Thank you.
I have recently switched to West System 105/207 to avoid issues with amine blush. If you are not using a blush-free hardener like 207, the final coat of epoxy should be washed with clean water and a Scotchbrite pad prior to sanding back to wood (for those of you sanding back to wood) - OR - wet sanded with P320 to both level the surface and remove any amine blush. For more on amine blush, see West System's website and their notes on surface prep prior to finishing.
@2herbie2 I don't find the shellac sealer is necessary - standard untwined z-poxy or West works just fine for the initial coat.
@cowdudeable You can pretty much use anything over z-poxy, including lacquer, WB lacquer or urethans, cat poly, polyester, french polish/shellac, or varnish. Some user shave reported some long term issues with TruOil over Z-Poxy, but others have had success. The clamp is a guitar trojy, and plans are available on Official Luthiers Forum...search for ;guitar trojy' to find the thread in the archives.
SO, what's the finish for the sound board? Shellac ?? and the final coat for the whole guitar?
thanks, very helpful
i can use on the top of guitar Todd?
Great Video. On Indian Rosewood back and sides do I need to use a sanding sealer first and then some epoxy coats ? Or is it the other way round ? I was thinking about shellac as a finish on the back and french polish the top with shellac as well.
good vid, thanks
Is this epoxy pore filler suitable for waterborne laquer? And secondly, are there plans for that foan filled clamp you used to hold the guitar body to sand the sides?
will z poxy cause purple heart to bleed into other woods glued next to it?
Parabéns pelo vídeo,gostei muito.
Muito obrigado - eu aprecio suas palavras amáveis.
Todd, what did you do after this? some sort of spray? and why did you dry-sand?
I tooth with Scotchbrite, then seal with either vinyl sealer or super blonde dewed shellac, then topcoat with lacquer or other finish.
Todd Stock
Why are the three different types of coats necessary? I found high quality two portion Italian epoxy that says grain filling as well as finishing. So I did just many layer epoxy on wood and now finishing shiny.
No dust mask? I thought Epoxy dust or any dust for that matter is not good for you.
+Dave Bates Epoxy is pretty much inert, so a nuisance dust. usually wear a respirator when sanding, but for the vid, I decided to go without to avoid having to rig a mic in the mask.
You're not wearing a mask, I suppose for filming...you opted not to. Do you think it's necessary to wear a mask when sanding Zpoxy...?
No, other than for the nuisance dust. If sensitive to epoxy, always...
Your video is really confusing . Thats the reason for all the questions
. You could have mentioned what you were going to do next