If you appreciate this guide and would like to support the channel, consider using the links below! (As an Amazon associate I may earn a small commission at NO extra cost to you) Need a new hot end and nozzle for your K1C / K1 Max / Ender 3 V3 ? ► amzn.to/4922VQY ► s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dmg5VGH If you have the old "Volcano" style nozzle with the early K1 and K1 Max, I have hardened steel nozzles for those machines here: ► embracemaking.com/products/creality-k1-hardened-steel-nozzle Extruder is the problem as I showed in the video? All Metal Extruder Gears: ► amzn.to/40Zelmk ► s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DF9sZeh Creality High Tension Extruder: ► amzn.to/3CHa5y1 Looking for other filament related upgrades and accessories, consider: Universal Top Mount Spool Stand ► embracemaking.com/products/universal-top-mount-spool-stand Spool Stand X ► embracemaking.com/products/spool-stand-x Super Deluxe Spool Holder ► embracemaking.com/products/super-deluxe-spool-holder PTFE Tube Kit ► embracemaking.com/products/ptfe-tube-2m-and-tube-cutter In addition to the products listed above, I have plenty of different style K1, K1C, K1 Max, and Ender 3 flex plates with various transfer patterns and effects. See the link below! ► embracemaking.com/collections/creality-ender-3/Ender-3 ► embracemaking.com/collections/creality-k1-k1-max If you have any questions, comments, or suggestions, I would love to hear from you in the comments section below. A few other cool tools and things for 3D printer enthusiasts (As an Amazon associate I may earn a small commission at NO extra cost to you): Polymaker PolyTerra PLA (One of my favorite filaments): ► amzn.to/3sdhK1x eSUN PLA+ (Another one of my favorite filaments): ► amzn.to/3QA4tuq Electric Screwdriver: ► amzn.to/3JRbbZe Velcro Tie Wrap Rolls ► amzn.to/42jr3dX
Before watching the video: an issue was identified by Zombie Hedgehog a long long time ago. The gears start getting wobbly and tilting over, because they are unsupported on the other side, so the loading for the shaft and the bearings isn't proper. Ah the metal parts that you found look like bearing shield rims or clips, but i'm not super certain. Given they look still vaguely on there i don't think it could have shaved off a part of the cage and ejected it but on the other hand the way that bearing allows you to shift odds are there is cage damage. IDK since you have those shot bearings anyway you might as well open up the shields and look inside? I don't think throwing another set of effectively unrated bearings on there is a long term solution.
It's kind of funny I edited out part of the video where I said something along the lines of "I'm sure I'm not the first person to criticize certain design decisions in the extruder like the pulley bolt only being supported on one side allowing for the gears to spread more easily" etc etc because I felt like I was getting a bit off topic and should keep the video short and to the point. But yes I think this would probably decrease the bearing life as the bearings are intended to be loaded radially and anything at an angle to that plane would accelerate wear. I'm not sure about those shavings as I think some of the cages are now made of plastic? Just seemed suspicious to me given how much play there was in the bearing... figured it could have been something to do with the bearings. As for long term solution, I agree. However, for most people they probably aren't going to press the bearings out of those gears and get better ones. Practically it will be like changing your tires every season and just keep swapping in new gears with bearings already in them every time this comes up.
The stock gears are an assembly of metal and plastic, on this scale of production, in terms of components, materials and labor cost, they didn't pick hybrid gears to save money. They picked plastic for a technical reason, my guess is to avoid catastrophic damage of the extruder or of the hot-end in a situation of massive clog forced down the nozzle. Better breaking the gears than the housing or the motor, or worse. Regarding the red Loctite...red is for things you don't want to remove, ever. I'd stick to the blue one, even though it is completely unnecessary, it is not a motorcycle brake caliper.
G’day and thanks for your insightful info. I have had the exact same problem with my 3v3 and I replaced all 3 wheels with new ones and it seemed to have almost fixed the problem. I am still having first layer problems but if I slow the first layer it will print ok. But I can hear clicking from the extruder when printing at full speed doing long strokes and if I don’t slow the speed the first layer will fail. Will this mean the extruder will need to be replaced all together?? Any advice will be appreciated thanks, Cheers.5:50
If your gears are good and there is nothing obstructing them in your extruder then continue your search down into the hot end. Have you tried using the pushing tool to see if you can clear anything from your nozzle and hotend? When you extrude into open air like when you change filament does it come out in a nice stream? Also, what material are you printing with? Some brands or types of material sometimes like slightly higher nozzle temperatures and your problem may be nothing more than just needing to increase your nozzle temps
Thanks mate, I am using Jayo silk pla at 200 & bed at 65 so I will try 210 and see if that helps. I have normal extrusion when changing filaments and I have a spare new nozzle just in case it was the problem. Is it normal for the extruder to click when performing the long runs on the first layer? Thanks again for the help mate.
Yes 200 may be too low, I would even go as high as 220 if necessary. No amount of clicking is normal under any conditions. Clicking extruder means something is preventing the gears from turning at the rate they should be turning. Can be as simple as too low of a temperature though so hopefully that is all you need to do!
I have the Ender 3 V3 and so far have had only minor issues but probably not printing anywhere near your capacity. Still, good to know this might be a thing some day and looks like an easy fix. Filed for future reference. I'd be interested to know if you have needed to replace a nozzle yet? I had an issue with "muddy" areas on some surfaces and I replaced the nozzle with a cheap Unicorn nozzle from AliEx and solved the problem. Thanks
I've replaced a nozzle or two, one I had an actual jam that I couldn't clear. And then replaced again during this debacle but as I pointed out it wasn't the problem. I haven't had one show signs of wear to the point where it was impacting print quality significantly, however it is possible to get accelerated wear depending on what you're printing with. It's supposed to be a hardened nozzle but I guess if you're still using abrasive filament it will eventually wear. The change over time is so slow but as soon as you slap a new nozzle on it you notice how crisp the prints are immediately
Thanks for the reply. I also commented on your other video about melted filament jams getting up under the canopy and the grief that caused me. I've been running my V3 without the canopy for a few months now without any problems and a few recent meltdowns that previously might have made it "upstairs" inside the cover now just coagulate around the nozzle. Worth considering.
Hi Frank, which component are you referring to as the canopy, I don't think I've ever heard of any of the parts referred to that before. Wondering what your solution looks like, thanks!
I'm pretty new to 3D printing (and 86 y.o.) so my terminology might be suspect. The canopy I'm referring to is the plastic box/cover (has the lighted "Creality" logo in it). When the PLA backed up under this cover (just as it did at 8:05 in your video 4 months ago) it melted over a little circuit board and I broke a pin off the board as I tried to clear the mess up. The pin was for the plug that powers the fan inside this canopy and I was getting a fault code if I plugged the fan in. I found by chance that the printer still ran OK if I didn't plug that fan in so I left it unplugged and also left that cover off altogether. Just today I had another large project come off the plate and plastic spewed everywhere till I stopped it. Without this cover on the melted plastic just builds up around the nozzle. Hope this clarifies things. @@EmbraceMaking
If you appreciate this guide and would like to support the channel, consider using the links below! (As an Amazon associate I may earn a small commission at NO extra cost to you)
Need a new hot end and nozzle for your K1C / K1 Max / Ender 3 V3 ?
► amzn.to/4922VQY
► s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dmg5VGH
If you have the old "Volcano" style nozzle with the early K1 and K1 Max, I have hardened steel nozzles for those machines here:
► embracemaking.com/products/creality-k1-hardened-steel-nozzle
Extruder is the problem as I showed in the video?
All Metal Extruder Gears:
► amzn.to/40Zelmk
► s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DF9sZeh
Creality High Tension Extruder:
► amzn.to/3CHa5y1
Looking for other filament related upgrades and accessories, consider:
Universal Top Mount Spool Stand
► embracemaking.com/products/universal-top-mount-spool-stand
Spool Stand X
► embracemaking.com/products/spool-stand-x
Super Deluxe Spool Holder
► embracemaking.com/products/super-deluxe-spool-holder
PTFE Tube Kit
► embracemaking.com/products/ptfe-tube-2m-and-tube-cutter
In addition to the products listed above, I have plenty of different style K1, K1C, K1 Max, and Ender 3 flex plates with various transfer patterns and effects. See the link below!
► embracemaking.com/collections/creality-ender-3/Ender-3
► embracemaking.com/collections/creality-k1-k1-max
If you have any questions, comments, or suggestions, I would love to hear from you in the comments section below.
A few other cool tools and things for 3D printer enthusiasts (As an Amazon associate I may earn a small commission at NO extra cost to you):
Polymaker PolyTerra PLA (One of my favorite filaments):
► amzn.to/3sdhK1x
eSUN PLA+ (Another one of my favorite filaments):
► amzn.to/3QA4tuq
Electric Screwdriver:
► amzn.to/3JRbbZe
Velcro Tie Wrap Rolls
► amzn.to/42jr3dX
The little rings of metal are from the bearings, it's the remains of little ring clips that sort of hold the bearing together.
That might explain why the bearing is no longer together lol
Should we use that blue or red locking compund? Is it mandatory? I don't have that.
Before watching the video: an issue was identified by Zombie Hedgehog a long long time ago. The gears start getting wobbly and tilting over, because they are unsupported on the other side, so the loading for the shaft and the bearings isn't proper.
Ah the metal parts that you found look like bearing shield rims or clips, but i'm not super certain. Given they look still vaguely on there i don't think it could have shaved off a part of the cage and ejected it but on the other hand the way that bearing allows you to shift odds are there is cage damage. IDK since you have those shot bearings anyway you might as well open up the shields and look inside?
I don't think throwing another set of effectively unrated bearings on there is a long term solution.
It's kind of funny I edited out part of the video where I said something along the lines of "I'm sure I'm not the first person to criticize certain design decisions in the extruder like the pulley bolt only being supported on one side allowing for the gears to spread more easily" etc etc because I felt like I was getting a bit off topic and should keep the video short and to the point. But yes I think this would probably decrease the bearing life as the bearings are intended to be loaded radially and anything at an angle to that plane would accelerate wear.
I'm not sure about those shavings as I think some of the cages are now made of plastic? Just seemed suspicious to me given how much play there was in the bearing... figured it could have been something to do with the bearings.
As for long term solution, I agree. However, for most people they probably aren't going to press the bearings out of those gears and get better ones. Practically it will be like changing your tires every season and just keep swapping in new gears with bearings already in them every time this comes up.
The stock gears are an assembly of metal and plastic, on this scale of production, in terms of components, materials and labor cost, they didn't pick hybrid gears to save money. They picked plastic for a technical reason, my guess is to avoid catastrophic damage of the extruder or of the hot-end in a situation of massive clog forced down the nozzle. Better breaking the gears than the housing or the motor, or worse.
Regarding the red Loctite...red is for things you don't want to remove, ever. I'd stick to the blue one, even though it is completely unnecessary, it is not a motorcycle brake caliper.
G’day and thanks for your insightful info. I have had the exact same problem with my 3v3 and I replaced all 3 wheels with new ones and it seemed to have almost fixed the problem. I am still having first layer problems but if I slow the first layer it will print ok. But I can hear clicking from the extruder when printing at full speed doing long strokes and if I don’t slow the speed the first layer will fail. Will this mean the extruder will need to be replaced all together?? Any advice will be appreciated thanks,
Cheers.5:50
If your gears are good and there is nothing obstructing them in your extruder then continue your search down into the hot end. Have you tried using the pushing tool to see if you can clear anything from your nozzle and hotend? When you extrude into open air like when you change filament does it come out in a nice stream?
Also, what material are you printing with? Some brands or types of material sometimes like slightly higher nozzle temperatures and your problem may be nothing more than just needing to increase your nozzle temps
Thanks mate, I am using Jayo silk pla at 200 & bed at 65 so I will try 210 and see if that helps. I have normal extrusion when changing filaments and I have a spare new nozzle just in case it was the problem. Is it normal for the extruder to click when performing the long runs on the first layer?
Thanks again for the help mate.
Yes 200 may be too low, I would even go as high as 220 if necessary. No amount of clicking is normal under any conditions. Clicking extruder means something is preventing the gears from turning at the rate they should be turning. Can be as simple as too low of a temperature though so hopefully that is all you need to do!
isnt that 3rd gear plastic as well ?
I have the Ender 3 V3 and so far have had only minor issues but probably not printing anywhere near your capacity. Still, good to know this might be a thing some day and looks like an easy fix. Filed for future reference. I'd be interested to know if you have needed to replace a nozzle yet? I had an issue with "muddy" areas on some surfaces and I replaced the nozzle with a cheap Unicorn nozzle from AliEx and solved the problem. Thanks
I've replaced a nozzle or two, one I had an actual jam that I couldn't clear. And then replaced again during this debacle but as I pointed out it wasn't the problem. I haven't had one show signs of wear to the point where it was impacting print quality significantly, however it is possible to get accelerated wear depending on what you're printing with. It's supposed to be a hardened nozzle but I guess if you're still using abrasive filament it will eventually wear. The change over time is so slow but as soon as you slap a new nozzle on it you notice how crisp the prints are immediately
Thanks for the reply. I also commented on your other video about melted filament jams getting up under the canopy and the grief that caused me. I've been running my V3 without the canopy for a few months now without any problems and a few recent meltdowns that previously might have made it "upstairs" inside the cover now just coagulate around the nozzle. Worth considering.
Hi Frank, which component are you referring to as the canopy, I don't think I've ever heard of any of the parts referred to that before. Wondering what your solution looks like, thanks!
I'm pretty new to 3D printing (and 86 y.o.) so my terminology might be suspect. The canopy I'm referring to is the plastic box/cover (has the lighted "Creality" logo in it). When the PLA backed up under this cover (just as it did at 8:05 in your video 4 months ago) it melted over a little circuit board and I broke a pin off the board as I tried to clear the mess up. The pin was for the plug that powers the fan inside this canopy and I was getting a fault code if I plugged the fan in. I found by chance that the printer still ran OK if I didn't plug that fan in so I left it unplugged and also left that cover off altogether. Just today I had another large project come off the plate and plastic spewed everywhere till I stopped it. Without this cover on the melted plastic just builds up around the nozzle. Hope this clarifies things.
@@EmbraceMaking