I prefer to leave the sock and fan shroud in place and simply push up against the bottom of the sock to unscrew the nozzle. Faster and no chance of damaging the wires to the heater pulling off the sock. Works perfectly.
Nice one mate! However, don't do this on the Ender 3 V3. The nozzle is fixed with a grub screw and you might break off the throat. So better investigate for any newer Creality printer that uses this type of nozzel if and how the nozzle might be fixed in place. The K1C seems so far the only printer where the nozzle can be screwed out without releasing a grub screw in the upper section of the hotend.
4:31 Hello, I saw an official Creality aftersales video on replacing the K1C Unicorn nozzle. In the video, the upper copper ring is lubricated with silicone grease. In your video, you screw the nozzle in without lubrication. Do you know anything about this topic? I have not yet received an answer as to which silicone grease was used. Silicone grease is only supposed to work up to 200 degrees.
The upper copper ring (after the heat break) is there to keep incoming filament from melting due to heat creep before it enters the extruder. In theory it should rarely if ever go above 200°C so the silicone grease should be fine.
I believe it’s not a silicon grease, but a thermal paste to increase cooling of this segment. Maybe I’m wrong, but I don’t see any advantage that silicon grease can provide
In Creality's tutorial for changing the Unicorn nozzle, they say you must heat the nozzle to 240 before removing it and keep the extruder at that temp while screwing in the new nozzle, just like on printers using standard nozzles. Any reason why you omitted that step?
Can't really see why this should be necessary. Heating up the nozzle is a good idea for Mk2 and V6 hotends, because nozzle and heatbeak are separate parts, and you really don't want a gap between them, otherwise the hotend will leak. Those unicorn nozzles, however, are nozzle and heatbreak in one part. There cannot be a gap between them. Heating up the hotend before changing the nozzle seems completely unnecessary.
Can I still remove the nozzle if I have filament stuck in it? After a power outage while in the middle of printing and after the power came back on I noticed my filament not extruding.
5:50 Printing with bigger nozzle, but having it defined as smaller in slicer won’t under extrude. The quality will suffer, but extrusion volume should still be correct.
That silicone sock is a PAIN to remove for me. Also that fan socket will have glue on it when you first remove it. You have to carefully chip that off before removing.
I did the replacement of the standard 0.4 to the unicorn 0.6 nozzle. The first print i want to make I get an error Key:2111. Do you know of this problem and how to solve it?
@@Crosslink3D I did a restart and factory reset of the printer. The error keeps popping up. The strangest thing is that with files sliced before the first error there is no problem. So it looks to be an error in the gcode that's generated by creality print. The print head does multiple homing movements and for some reason it centers and wants to lower the temp of the nozzle to 170. That's when the error occuers. With the old gcode, its does the homing and afterwards it just begins to print. Very strange. Haven't had the time to check the g-code on differences between the old and new files.
@@kennethewald1189I got it to work without having to root the printer. The latest release of orca slicer has a “print to: creality print”. I think this option was added very recently. I now actually prefer working in Orca instread of creality print
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Great video. Very well explained. Great job. I wish more tutorials are as thorough as yours.
Wow that’s actually easier than I expected! Even easier than the OG ender 3!
I prefer to leave the sock and fan shroud in place and simply push up against the bottom of the sock to unscrew the nozzle. Faster and no chance of damaging the wires to the heater pulling off the sock. Works perfectly.
Nice one mate! However, don't do this on the Ender 3 V3. The nozzle is fixed with a grub screw and you might break off the throat. So better investigate for any newer Creality printer that uses this type of nozzel if and how the nozzle might be fixed in place. The K1C seems so far the only printer where the nozzle can be screwed out without releasing a grub screw in the upper section of the hotend.
@@Crosslink3D Ahh interesting, yes I have a K1C
@@Crosslink3D Good to know! I’ve been switching between the 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles!
4:31 Hello, I saw an official Creality aftersales video on replacing the K1C Unicorn nozzle. In the video, the upper copper ring is lubricated with silicone grease. In your video, you screw the nozzle in without lubrication. Do you know anything about this topic? I have not yet received an answer as to which silicone grease was used. Silicone grease is only supposed to work up to 200 degrees.
Great question. Also curious.
The upper copper ring (after the heat break) is there to keep incoming filament from melting due to heat creep before it enters the extruder. In theory it should rarely if ever go above 200°C so the silicone grease should be fine.
I believe it’s not a silicon grease, but a thermal paste to increase cooling of this segment. Maybe I’m wrong, but I don’t see any advantage that silicon grease can provide
@@zdrf1991 Did you apply the thermal paste? Did it work?
I also wondered about a thermal sealer ?
I have the old style nozzle, any hints how to upgrade to the unicorn nozzle?
In Creality's tutorial for changing the Unicorn nozzle, they say you must heat the nozzle to 240 before removing it and keep the extruder at that temp while screwing in the new nozzle, just like on printers using standard nozzles. Any reason why you omitted that step?
Can't really see why this should be necessary. Heating up the nozzle is a good idea for Mk2 and V6 hotends, because nozzle and heatbeak are separate parts, and you really don't want a gap between them, otherwise the hotend will leak. Those unicorn nozzles, however, are nozzle and heatbreak in one part. There cannot be a gap between them. Heating up the hotend before changing the nozzle seems completely unnecessary.
To aid in removing in case the threads are seized.
Wish they made a 0.2 nozzle!
I found some 0.2 nozzles are available on AliExpress
Very helpful video. Thank you for that.
I saw that you have a new channel logo. Looks nice.
Best regards from Regensburg.
Thanks back! In fact it’s the old logo. I felt it’s time to switch back to it 🔥
@Crosslink dónde puedo conseguir el kit de boquillas?
Isnt there a screw at back of extruder to hold unicorn tight to heatsink?
Thanks!
Thank you so much for the donation! I'm so happy that you liked the content!
Can I still remove the nozzle if I have filament stuck in it? After a power outage while in the middle of printing and after the power came back on I noticed my filament not extruding.
Thank you sir 👌🏼
Thank you so much! Very helpful.
To see the mesh of the printer bed I have to root it first?
I use orca slicer. Took some time to learn it, and I prefer it over Creality print. The mesh is visible there. I didn’t have to root the printer.
5:50 Printing with bigger nozzle, but having it defined as smaller in slicer won’t under extrude. The quality will suffer, but extrusion volume should still be correct.
That’s probably right. I think it’s still crucial to have the right settings
Thermal paste?
That silicone sock is a PAIN to remove for me. Also that fan socket will have glue on it when you first remove it. You have to carefully chip that off before removing.
I bought a pack of them and if they don't want to go off, I simply rip and tear them until it's done 😂
Hello, is it necessary to perform bed calibration after nozzle replacement?
Probably better so
Great video! Thanks!!
I tried to use these, and I lost 2 nozzles with the tip popping out. Anyone having this problem?
I did the replacement of the standard 0.4 to the unicorn 0.6 nozzle. The first print i want to make I get an error Key:2111. Do you know of this problem and how to solve it?
I had this after disconnecting the fan and reconnecting. I did restart the printer by powering off and on. The problem did not happen again since.
@@Crosslink3D I did a restart and factory reset of the printer. The error keeps popping up. The strangest thing is that with files sliced before the first error there is no problem.
So it looks to be an error in the gcode that's generated by creality print. The print head does multiple homing movements and for some reason it centers and wants to lower the temp of the nozzle to 170. That's when the error occuers.
With the old gcode, its does the homing and afterwards it just begins to print.
Very strange. Haven't had the time to check the g-code on differences between the old and new files.
Now creality print app changed and now k1c can only 0.4 nozzle.
Creality Print 5.0 does enable the selection of materials, but still doesn't have the ability to select different nozzles. Bummer!
Indeed, time to switch to OrcaSlicer
@@Crosslink3D I have, but it doesn’t connect to the K1C by WiFi. USB stick kind of works though the K1C doesn’t have a way to cleanly eject it.
But strangely enough, Creality print 4 now does! Need to keep both versions to use this machine, some files in v5 gcode cause errors.
@@kennethewald1189I got it to work without having to root the printer. The latest release of orca slicer has a “print to: creality print”. I think this option was added very recently. I now actually prefer working in Orca instread of creality print
great video! can you close it out next time saying "get to the choppa!"