Rip, thank you for the video. It showed me the exact location of the pin and a method to remove it. I own a 2009 Acura Mdx whose wafers have worn out. But I am not a locksmith and have limited tools. So I did a variant of your method. I screwed a very narrow screw into the pin and used a sidecutting plier to pry it out. Worked like a charm. Thanks
The key to the job seems to be the correct tap size and screw. Also, it looks like it would only work if the steering wheel is in the right position. It looks like your other commenter screwed the tap too far and broke the tool. Your 2 demo's, on the work bench, and in the car, look perfect.
My sheer bolts would not come out or turn on my ‘06 CRV. I found out that you can leave them alone and by unscrewing the plastic around the ignition cylinder you can access the pin. The pin holding the lock cylinder to the housing did not want to come out... I drilled 2 holes (one hole in front and one behind the pin) and when all else failed I used a grinder to grind down a pair of needle nose pliers to fit. After many attempts the pen finally was pulled free. What I found out in the process is that you can drill one hole to the right of the pen toward the and then go ahead and drill another hole another hole to the right of that hole and slide remove the lock cylinder with the pen still in the cylinder. Makes it quick and easy. Reason being is that you do not need to use the pen when placing the lock cylinder back. As the cylinder will be held in with the plastic when the 4 screws are placed back and work perfectly... I bought a replacement lock cylinder (with 2 keys) off of Amazon for $18. It worked great. Before I used it, I tried the method in some videos of removing and pulling whatever pen was stuck in the out position and reusing the same cylinder. However I had no luck with that, at all. I’d say try that first cannot hurt, might have better luck. Also I’d say if you can use a chisel or dremel and remove the sheer pens easily then go for it. If you can drill one hole and remove the pin holding the lock cylinder, then try it. Or you can just not fool with any of that drill the holes needed to slide the cylinder out and fix or replace the cylinder and slide it all back in, try the key and then replace the plastic and go on with your day. (At least this is my experience with my CRV). I thought I needed the locking pen (so I took extra time to remove it (just in case), but when I was able to replace the cylinder without reinstalling and have everything work perfectly fine (as if it was installed) I wanted to spread the word. Lastly always best to disconnect the negative battery terminal as you do not want to trigger the airbag by pulling out a connector. Peace. :)
My ignition lock broke in weather of -7 deg F and 25 mph winds. Lucky it was in my driveway! I saved the in-car work for a nicer day, say, 15 deg F and 10 mph winds.
Do you have a solution for the locks that need to be reset after the plug is pulled out? The lock will turn outside of the housing but not inside. If y Th he housing is off reset is push in the lock bolt.
Actually on my Honda there are 4 screws holding down the plastic housing. 3 hold the outer ring and the 4th holds the antenna piece which blocks the pin hole. This screw falls under the wiper arm location band needs an offset screw driver to remove. I tired and so far have been unable to apply enough torque to unscrew it. I am stuck.
@@b4w104 eventually had to file down edges of screw head and use a small wire cutter to grip and turn screw head. Locking pliers just slip off. THat took an enormous amount of time to do. I have since bought much lower profile offset screwdriver which makes access easier.
@@b4w104 My lock pin just popped out and got lost in the car. Realignment when you try to push the lock cylinder assy back in. There might enough slack to prevent insertion with the end spring attached. Drilling a hole in the column assy below the end of the assy relative position, will allow you push the assy with a metal rod or drill bit to align in the column.
@@rcarioca About 20% of the roll pins do just pop out, either all by themselves, or with a slight tap on face of lock ( After plastic is removed... the rest are a bear. This kit is for those critters that do what they do in the woods!
Yes, you will need to have a new key cut and repair the cylinder, unless you are putting a new cylinder with key. Or you can remove the cylinder and take it to locksmith for them to rebuid. Hope this helps
If you make a core puller (destructive is fine) like that and market it to auto salvages it should do well. Salvages buy auction vehicles which often lack keys (theft recoverys, abandoned vehicles) and pulling a core while doing the LEAST damage to the column (not worth calling a locksmith but well worth selling) would be popular. Wrecker and recovery operators and first responders also sometimes need to pull cores. (Thieves already know this stuff so there is no security by obscurity!)
Hi mate im looking to Find the tools you are using for taking the pin out but i cant Find it. If someone can please let me know what it called it will help me alot thanks in advance
Seems like a lot of work to get a roll pin out. Definitely easier to take it off the column. I think the hardest part of this process is a part not shown in the video, where the two opposite side screws for immobilizer and the ign light. I imagine that’s why it wasn’t shown. Only takes 5 mins to take it off the steering column with a nail set and hammer to remove the two security bolts on top. Then drill out the roll pin, luckily it’s not needed for the re-installation process as the light and immobilizer ring will hold it in place perfectly. It’s cool someone it thinking of ways to do it without removing the whole housing hopefully it’s perfected someday.
@@rcarioca some models starting in 2013 I believe you have to turn the screw to the right to get the out. But it will say that on the little bracket that the two security screws hold on. It will be stamped with Counter or something to that effect. The key to getting them to unscrew is to hit as close to the edge with as much angle as possible with out slipping off. Think about spinning a basket ball on your finger, you smack the very outer edge of the hemisphere to get the fastest spin not up at the top or in between the two
@@rcarioca easy money though!!! 30 min job charge between 250-350 easy with no parts needed. And I charge on the low end cause I work for myself. Some places charge 5-600 for this Shit.
@@miekolock4060 i also re-pinned the sticking ignition cylinder. Good luck finding someone willing to do all that for you at a reasonable cost. Saved me tons of $$$
So I haven't replaced any of these Honda or Acura ignition cylinders but I guess they aren't like the other ones where you just push in the roll pin which is spring loaded to remove the lock cylinder you have to remove it? That's kind of crazy. Thanks for your video.0
Thank you for your question. The best way we have found to remove these screws is using a 1/4" Phillips Number 2 bit and a 1/4" ratcheting wrench. There are several other ways but this is the way that we prefer.
@@KeyInnovationsWholesale These are also used for the side terminal batteries. One side is 1/4". the other is 5/16.... they are not very expensive at all. Mine are branded Blackhawk tools.... also likely sold under KD and Lisle brands. The kit in the video... Part number?
I did purchase this tool, but the tiny drill taper broke with the first time. I did drill very carefully. Very disappointed. So, the small piece of the taper got stuck inside, so I screwed. No other choice but I bought the whole ignition housing. Now the tool is useless :( (how come that this tool can be sold without extra taper drill)
@@alberts7061 just used mine for the first time today. Same thing. Tap broken in half. I was careful and used a generous amount of lubricant. Also, the black collar tool provided to hold the tap was defective as well. Very disspointed for a $150 product.
Heisenberg That’s right. The black collar tool does not hold the drill easy like in the video. I did tight it with the plier. Better to buy the Ignition Removal Tool from accureader website. So, $150 went to the garbage right away :) I wish I can return it back, even if I get 50% of the price back.
@@alberts7061 My black collar tool wont even allow the cap to thread on, making it impossible to properly secure the tap and mostly useless. I looked online and replacement taps are anywhere from 10-20 USD. The tap is far too long for the length of the roll pin. I feel if the tap was shorter there would be less torsion force and it'd hold up better. However, this kit is mainly just off the shelf stuff thrown in a box for 150 bucks. I've had the Lock Tech removal kit for a couple years and it is very hit and miss. When it works, it's AWESOME, when it fails, it's frustrating especially since the replacement tubes are absurdly over priced (25USD for 10 tubes) However, at worst a failure wastes $2.50 with the Lock Tech kit and not $15 like with this one.
Hi there! I slightly modify the pin hole since I tried removing the pin. Would I still be able to use your kit even though the pin has been bent wider? Please let me know.
I used a M1.4 Tap with M1.4 x 4mm long eye glass screw. Once it was in I just pried it out with two little screw drivers. Would have been easier with longer screw but thats all I had. Probably could have used a little bigger tap(M1.6) also but was afraid it might break.
Sounds to me like you need more than just one tap if they break easily! Do you supply any replacements I don't see any? Haven't tried it yet but thinking about it.
Rip, thank you for the video. It showed me the exact location of the pin and a method to remove it. I own a 2009 Acura Mdx whose wafers have worn out. But I am not a locksmith and have limited tools. So I did a variant of your method. I screwed a very narrow screw into the pin and used a sidecutting plier to pry it out. Worked like a charm. Thanks
Update. Just used this on my first job easy as pie and now my tool is all paid for. All profit jobs now. THANK YOU RIP
My steering column is locked. will this work to get the cylnder out?
The key to the job seems to be the correct tap size and screw. Also, it looks like it would only work if the steering wheel is in the right position. It looks like your other commenter screwed the tap too far and broke the tool. Your 2 demo's, on the work bench, and in the car, look perfect.
My sheer bolts would not come out or turn on my ‘06 CRV. I found out that you can leave them alone and by unscrewing the plastic around the ignition cylinder you can access the pin. The pin holding the lock cylinder to the housing did not want to come out... I drilled 2 holes (one hole in front and one behind the pin) and when all else failed I used a grinder to grind down a pair of needle nose pliers to fit. After many attempts the pen finally was pulled free.
What I found out in the process is that you can drill one hole to the right of the pen toward the and then go ahead and drill another hole another hole to the right of that hole and slide remove the lock cylinder with the pen still in the cylinder. Makes it quick and easy. Reason being is that you do not need to use the pen when placing the lock cylinder back. As the cylinder will be held in with the plastic when the 4 screws are placed back and work perfectly... I bought a replacement lock cylinder (with 2 keys) off of Amazon for $18. It worked great. Before I used it, I tried the method in some videos of removing and pulling whatever pen was stuck in the out position and reusing the same cylinder. However I had no luck with that, at all. I’d say try that first cannot hurt, might have better luck.
Also I’d say if you can use a chisel or dremel and remove the sheer pens easily then go for it.
If you can drill one hole and remove the pin holding the lock cylinder, then try it.
Or you can just not fool with any of that drill the holes needed to slide the cylinder out and fix or replace the cylinder and slide it all back in, try the key and then replace the plastic and go on with your day. (At least this is my experience with my CRV). I thought I needed the locking pen (so I took extra time to remove it (just in case), but when I was able to replace the cylinder without reinstalling and have everything work perfectly fine (as if it was installed) I wanted to spread the word.
Lastly always best to disconnect the negative battery terminal as you do not want to trigger the airbag by pulling out a connector. Peace. :)
My ignition lock broke in weather of -7 deg F and 25 mph winds. Lucky it was in my driveway! I saved the in-car work for a nicer day, say, 15 deg F and 10 mph winds.
Looks good I bought 2 of the lock tech roll pin removal tool kits from American key supply and its trash your tool is simple and efficient
www.internationalkeysupply.com/products/honda-acura-ignition-roll-pin-removal-kit
How has your experience been? Mine just broke the first time I used it.
I like the kit from AKS
They are 🗑️ and don't work the tubes don't lock on to the roll pin wast of my time and money.
@@matthews.5369 I've never had a problem. This kit looks cool, tap looks fragile but seems good overall.
Website isn’t working I’d like to buy one
Updated the link!
@@KeyInnovationsWholesale
@@KeyInnovationsWholesale
Great idea! Thanks a lot for sharing us !
I used this tool today for first time it worked wonderful my question is what do you use for the hard to get to screws
Turn the steering wheel
Love it, you could seriously sell it commercially. Just patent what you created and find a way to brand and market your tool.
Does this work on the roll pin on the back of the actual ignition cylinder?
Do you have a solution for the locks that need to be reset after the plug is pulled out? The lock will turn outside of the housing but not inside. If y Th he housing is off reset is push in the lock bolt.
Did you ever figure this out?! I just had that issue today.
@@tntlocksmith7075 you have to pull it from behind from where the ignition switch plug goes
ruclips.net/video/s01gONEbLyM/видео.html
Actually on my Honda there are 4 screws holding down the plastic housing. 3 hold the outer ring and the 4th holds the antenna piece which blocks the pin hole. This screw falls under the wiper arm location band needs an offset screw driver to remove. I tired and so far have been unable to apply enough torque to unscrew it. I am stuck.
Im exactly where you are impossible to get out
@@b4w104 eventually had to file down edges of screw head and use a small wire cutter to grip and turn screw head. Locking pliers just slip off. THat took an enormous amount of time to do. I have since bought much lower profile offset screwdriver which makes access easier.
@@b4w104 My lock pin just popped out and got lost in the car. Realignment when you try to push the lock cylinder assy back in. There might enough slack to prevent insertion with the end spring attached. Drilling a hole in the column assy below the end of the assy relative position, will allow you push the assy with a metal rod or drill bit to align in the column.
@@rcarioca About 20% of the roll pins do just pop out, either all by themselves, or with a slight tap on face of lock ( After plastic is removed... the rest are a bear. This kit is for those critters that do what they do in the woods!
Your AMAZING EASY SO EASY TO UNDERSTAND
Hi what size screw did you use? Great information video
My steering column is locked. will this work to get the cylnder out?
Yes, you will need to have a new key cut and repair the cylinder, unless you are putting a new cylinder with key. Or you can remove the cylinder and take it to locksmith for them to rebuid. Hope this helps
Could this method also work on low security honda and acura ignitions?
If you make a core puller (destructive is fine) like that and market it to auto salvages it should do well. Salvages buy auction vehicles which often lack keys (theft recoverys, abandoned vehicles) and pulling a core while doing the LEAST damage to the column (not worth calling a locksmith but well worth selling) would be popular. Wrecker and recovery operators and first responders also sometimes need to pull cores. (Thieves already know this stuff so there is no security by obscurity!)
You are the man. Great idea.
We’re can I get this kit?
U was thinking there dude nice job very good viedo...
Hi mate im looking to Find the tools you are using for taking the pin out but i cant Find it. If someone can please let me know what it called it will help me alot thanks in advance
You're amazing bro tanks for support
I've removed the roll pin but the cylinder still will not pull out key is still in it what am I doing wrong?
Put a key in and wiggle it while pulling. Careful not to lose the center spring.
Jjeeee i been doing this for years with a 1 dollar bit drill without any problem
Can you explain to me how you did it.
Just drill a small hole next to the pin and use the same drill bit from the tap and pull it out
@@fernandofernandez5719 Thats the way most locksmiths do it
Brilliantly done
Seems like a lot of work to get a roll pin out. Definitely easier to take it off the column. I think the hardest part of this process is a part not shown in the video, where the two opposite side screws for immobilizer and the ign light. I imagine that’s why it wasn’t shown. Only takes 5 mins to take it off the steering column with a nail set and hammer to remove the two security bolts on top. Then drill out the roll pin, luckily it’s not needed for the re-installation process as the light and immobilizer ring will hold it in place perfectly. It’s cool someone it thinking of ways to do it without removing the whole housing hopefully it’s perfected someday.
I tried that method but couldn't with nailset and hammer and could'nt do it.
@@rcarioca some models starting in 2013 I believe you have to turn the screw to the right to get the out. But it will say that on the little bracket that the two security screws hold on. It will be stamped with Counter or something to that effect. The key to getting them to unscrew is to hit as close to the edge with as much angle as possible with out slipping off. Think about spinning a basket ball on your finger, you smack the very outer edge of the hemisphere to get the fastest spin not up at the top or in between the two
@@miekolock4060 Thanks. Good to watch out for. Hope I never have to do it.
@@rcarioca easy money though!!! 30 min job charge between 250-350 easy with no parts needed. And I charge on the low end cause I work for myself. Some places charge 5-600 for this Shit.
@@miekolock4060 i also re-pinned the sticking ignition cylinder. Good luck finding someone willing to do all that for you at a reasonable cost. Saved me tons of $$$
Very Nice. The last tool I bought is overly complicated, and does not always work.
Glad to hear you like it! Let us know if there are any other videos you would like to see.
So I haven't replaced any of these Honda or Acura ignition cylinders but I guess they aren't like the other ones where you just push in the roll pin which is spring loaded to remove the lock cylinder you have to remove it? That's kind of crazy. Thanks for your video.0
Are you still selling these? Can’t get the website to load.
How can I get one of them tools
how did you remove the hard to get to screw?
Thank you for your question. The best way we have found to remove these screws is using a 1/4" Phillips Number 2 bit and a 1/4" ratcheting wrench. There are several other ways but this is the way that we prefer.
Use a flat file, gently get the screw to turn. Gently!
@@KeyInnovationsWholesale These are also used for the side terminal batteries. One side is 1/4". the other is 5/16.... they are not very expensive at all. Mine are branded Blackhawk tools.... also likely sold under KD and Lisle brands. The kit in the video... Part number?
Hey i would like to buy one of your tools
I did purchase this tool, but the tiny drill taper broke with the first time. I did drill very carefully. Very disappointed. So, the small piece of the taper got stuck inside, so I screwed. No other choice but I bought the whole ignition housing. Now the tool is useless :( (how come that this tool can be sold without extra taper drill)
Did you use a lubricant when tapping?
Heisenberg
Yes I did.
@@alberts7061 just used mine for the first time today. Same thing. Tap broken in half. I was careful and used a generous amount of lubricant.
Also, the black collar tool provided to hold the tap was defective as well. Very disspointed for a $150 product.
Heisenberg
That’s right. The black collar tool does not hold the drill easy like in the video. I did tight it with the plier. Better to buy the Ignition Removal Tool from accureader website.
So, $150 went to the garbage right away :)
I wish I can return it back, even if I get 50% of the price back.
@@alberts7061 My black collar tool wont even allow the cap to thread on, making it impossible to properly secure the tap and mostly useless. I looked online and replacement taps are anywhere from 10-20 USD. The tap is far too long for the length of the roll pin. I feel if the tap was shorter there would be less torsion force and it'd hold up better. However, this kit is mainly just off the shelf stuff thrown in a box for 150 bucks.
I've had the Lock Tech removal kit for a couple years and it is very hit and miss. When it works, it's AWESOME, when it fails, it's frustrating especially since the replacement tubes are absurdly over priced (25USD for 10 tubes) However, at worst a failure wastes $2.50 with the Lock Tech kit and not $15 like with this one.
Hi there! I slightly modify the pin hole since I tried removing the pin. Would I still be able to use your kit even though the pin has been bent wider? Please let me know.
You rock man, thank you
Is it available online?
Where do i buy?
nice tool Rip!
good method, I like it!
Thank you for the feedback, let us know what other videos you would like us to make.
Very interesting 🤔 thanks 🙏
so slick... ingenious.. (:
Thank you for your comment, we're glad you liked it! Let us know if you have any future video requests.
Отличный инструмент!
What size tap did you use?
I'm not sure what size it is but it's included in the kit
I used a M1.4 Tap with M1.4 x 4mm long eye glass screw. Once it was in I just pried it out with two little screw drivers. Would have been easier with longer screw but thats all I had. Probably could have used a little bigger tap(M1.6) also but was afraid it might break.
Sounds to me like you need more than just one tap if they break easily! Do you supply any replacements I don't see any? Haven't tried it yet but thinking about it.
Very cool. Ordering one soon
Got mine delivered today. Time to make some money!!!
Cool
I want one
Masha Allah
O9
You went thru all this ton introduce your tool yet out 0 effort into responding to people in the comments section, hope your ok.
What size tap do you use on the rolling pin??