Thinner Oil vs. OIL CONSUMPTION | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 25
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2024
- This is sort of a supplemental experiment I thought I'd do while awaiting the final engine treatment votes to roll in. (Another Corolla Travel Channel video)
0:00 Intro
6:31 Look at used HPL oil
8:02 100 mile dipstick check
9:00 200 mile dipstick check
10:43 East Bay Deli
11:16 Wild Dunes
14:22 300 mile dipstick check
15:36 Cooper River paddle at Charles Towne Landing
17:08 Lewis Barbecue
21:46 400 mile dipstick check
22:41 500 mile dipstick check
23:45 Austin Healey Sprite tour
Entire oil burning playlist: • Oil Consumption Experi...
#1zz #oilburner #corollalovers
Music:
Sunshine Samba by Chris Haugen
Bumper Tag by John Deley
You Had to Be by E's Jammy Jams
Backwood BBQ
Anywhen You Say by Cheel
Endless Love by Old Vienna
Disclaimer:
If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. The creator of this content does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this RUclips channel (or other platforms) and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result. 
Авто/Мото
Entire oil burning playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj
Try Engine Restore. It deposits soft metals like copper, silver, and lead in the upper cylinder area to reduce oil burning.
project farm tested it and it worked great for him!
Absolutely works. I had a Sentra spec V and of course cylinders were damaged from cat. It blew a cloud of blue under WOT/high rpm. One can of Engine Restore reduced the cloud of smoke by 90% in a few hundred miles. Crazy.
Restore brought back some power for me , but didn't help oil usage at all
@@JT-dx1qk Maybe it sealed the upper cylinder area but your oil burning is coming from somewhere else like worn valve guide seals or a stuck open pcv valve.
I've been saying that every video👍
Thanks Dave, appreciate the continued experiments and videos, keep up the good work. This is an important subject for a lot of people, myself included. Enjoyed the interesting stuff on the highway and Charleston content as well. Great mix of oil experiment and fun life stuff.
I was told by several different dealership mechanics that 0w20 is legitimately just made so that car manufacturers can squeeze just a few more MPGs for your typical daily driver. While slightly sacrificing longevity on high temp situations like city traffic
It's really just for the EPA fuel economy test cycle as the viscosity of oils at operating temperatures is hardly thicker between a 0W-8 oil and a 20W-50 oil. 0W-8 oil is like 7cST @ 212F while a 20W-50 is 20cST @ 212F which sounds like a lot but understand that a 0W-8 oil is in the hundreds of cSt at 100F. Thin oil is fine in colder temperatures and will improve cold start ability and fuel economy but otherwise it's really unnecessary for most people.
That's an interesting approach! Must be interesting to watch this episode (I'm at the beginning of the video now).
I SHOULD give up on this after the HPL was deemed a fail! However.. if you're trying thinner before you go thicker (my previous Oil Board community speculated taking it up to a 40 grade would also stop the consumption, HPL or not...) yes, thinner oil may also effect a better seal every rotation of the crankshaft essentially helping compression maybe. Cylinders are just cans when closed at precise moment of combustion, trying thinner before going thicker is a good approach!
I had a chevy prizm with the same engine that burned a lot of oil. I just used full synthetic 5w30 with some motorkote in it and after about 4 oil changes (every 5k), the problem resolved itself. However, that car had low miles on it - like 120k. My guess is your rings are free, but worn. The ring gap is probably out of spec which lets the oil into the combustion chamber. Unfortunately, I crashed the prizm and then immediately bought a 2001 corolla with 134k which had the same oil consumption problem. I immediately used bg EPR which consists of using one can in the crankcase before you change the oil. When I bought the car, it would burn about a quart ever 500 miles, now it is slightly better and burns half a quart every 500 miles. Sometimes even a little better. I used the bg EPR a total of three times and have not seen any more improvement and I guess I'm okay with that...
Was originally into this because of the oil consumption. Now I’m loving the montage edit coving the trips more. Wholesome!
Much appreciated! -- as I know some don't like the change.
Very interesting. I have a 1999 Corolla that consumes oil. Nowhere near as bad as yours. With 10w-30 I had to add oil around 1500-2000 miles. I used 5w-20 and that extended my oil consumption to 3000 miles. That allowed me to just change the oil every 3000 miles. On my car highway driving and aggressive driving seems to affect the consumption considerably. Most driving is done in town luckily.
i have a 98 that I travel a lot with and youre right, driving at higher rpms makes a big difference. the condition of the oil also makes a huge difference. seems to burn faster the lower it is as well.
Thinner oil for higher fuel economy a plus for manufacturers
Good one Dave! Can’t wait to see you try “Engine Restore” then finally “Totally Awesome” 😆.
Whatever you try, I’m sure it will be interesting…
I love your videos. I think you should try using some Lucas upper cylinder lubricant if you haven't already. Seems like it fixed my oil consumption issue on my 2012 Toyota Sienna with 267k.
Cool video brother. I love how you show the houses and cars. Living in Wales in the UK they interest me.
Thanks man :-)
Presente en las aventuras de mecánica automotriz desde Navojoa Sonora México 🎉
Thanks for the update great video series, was the oil 0w20 also dexos1 or 2 approved? In my old bmw the 5w30 shell ect c3 dexos 2 and liqui moly cetatec is 'doing miracles' oil smoking from exhaust gone and oil consumption is improved dramatically. From 1 liter on 900 km to 1 liter on 3500 km..... I renewed the oil and filter yesterday so i must see how the oil consumption will devalop.
Going to a high mileage variant pretty much solved my car's problem, but that was small leaks around the spark plug seals and a design where changing the valve cover gaskets is a 12 hour job by to book, so probably 20 for me. The seal conditioners in the additive package seem to have basically fixed the issue as I go every couple of months and mop out the leaky oil out of the spark plug wells. Last time I went to do it there was almost none. So while have no way to prove it, the only change was from Castrol Edge 5w30 to Castrol Edge High Mileage 5w30 and the old girl seems happy with it.
ive never seen that solo cup trick thats cool
I have an '02 with 204K miles and I use the "European formula" Mobil 1 5W-50, Castrol 5W-50 or 0W-40. The reason for this is because 1. They're usually available pretty cheap or on sale and 2. They have PAO (Group IV) in the oil. PAO oils such as Amsoil will burn at half the rate as non PAO oils. In the USA, any oil that has been "refined" can be called a "Synthetic" but in Europe, the oils have to be a Group IV. Most synthetics in the USA are Group II or Group III oils so their consumption rate is about the same as the non synthetic oils. I had a friend with a truck that would burn 1 qt of oil every 500 miles and it was only when I switched to the "European Synthetic" oils did the oil consumption get cut in half. I used to use the Castrol 0W-30 Euro formula oil but it was no longer readily available and when it was available it was too expensive.
PAO based ols will evaporate at half the rate ,but that's not the issue here . There an oil consumption due to stuck oil control rings that causes excessive blow by.
Oil control rings don't affect blow by, those would be the compression rings. Yes stuck oil control rings and gummed up landings are the cause and using the updated pistons with the larger oil holes would fix this issue. However I don't have interest in opening up my engine like this and so I go with the synthetics I listed and keep the engine RPMs low though occasionally I'll give it an Italian tuneup. I'm not sure what my oil consumption rate is but it's definitely less than 1qt every 1000 miles.@@voffchik26
I have used verylube carbon cleaner (xado) a couple of times in my 2.0tfsi and it seems that I have cut the oil consumption by 2/3.
Will do another treatment coming week or so.
I switched to 20-50 in a Toyota diesel. Helped alot with startup smoke and consumption
Highly convenient creeper, nice going man, we all do that.
Your best bet is using the Amsoil engine flush for 15 mins and then using Amsoils 10w30 Signature Series. The flush is safe to use before every oil change and will dissolve all carbon deposits and varnish and will loosen stuck piston rings and clogged screens. All your oil consumption issues should slow down if not end completely.
I would drive very gently & not Rev it hard, my concern being the main & rod bearing clearances if you lose any oil pressure I'd switch back to 5/30 right away. If the cap calls for 5/30 that's what the whole engine was engineered for. Toyota just had problems from 04 through 07 with certain engines burning oil.
it is 98-2007 1.8 that burn oil. and the 2az-fe 2.4
I love your vids, are you ever going to replace the rings one day tho
Running 0-20 Mobil 1 in mine after reading that has more detergents or something like that in it. Went through a quart in 7500 miles after doing the Berrymans treatment. Most usage was in the first 3000 miles then kinda stopped using oil. We’ll see how it goes, just changed it this week.
Good info.
Dave , a frog eye sprite !
You are a man of impeccable taste !!!
I love Charleston although home prices are pretty expensive now and the traffic is horrendous. I was working in Johns Island and Moncks Corner for a previous job I did.
How about trying Kano Kreen in oil and fuel. I have heard good things but have no first hand experience however my source said they use Kano kreen to keep carbon out of piston rings in turbo and prop engines in aircraft. So why not try?
You should try the Oil Udder to avoid making a mess while removing the filter. It looks funny but the thing works, and it also works as a funnel for the drain plug as well, it has magnets to catch your drain plug and to hold onto the filter. I bought one on a lark and it made all the difference in the world since GM decided to route the front sway bar directly underneath the oil filter on my daily driver.
I have an 98 Ford Crown Victoria this speedometer broke a long long time ago, the engine has never been touched in the AC works fantastic and it doesn't burn a drop of oil in 3000 miles. Got lucky....
I suggest adding an oil catch can. It would be nice to know how much additives and oils go thru the intake
Excellent idea. I put one on my S10 pickup. It has a 1988 4.3 engine with 290,000 miles. It uses a quart every 650 miles or so.
I made a catch can and the line goes from the pcv to the can, then to the base of the throttle body. In 5000 miles it collected 11 ounces. All that oil would have been burnt on the plugs.
I need new valve seals. I'm wondering how much oil consumption is from that. I'm thinking a lot. Compression is 150 to 164
Hi. Saw all experiments to reduce oil consumption. I think problem not with stuck with carbon oil rings, the problem that oil rings works if they 90 degrees to the cylinder wall. You have a lot of miles on this car and cylinder wall has a deformation, they are not round anymore. That is why oil escapes through the gap between oil rings and cylinder wall. You can only fix this only mechanically.
The newer engine blocks do not wear like older ones. I worked for Toyota and we would replace the pistons and rings to fix this problem. When we tore the engines down the hone marks in the cylinders were still there and there was very little if any wear on the cylinder bores. The engine in this little Corolla needs pistons and rings.
Next time around, use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum synthetic oil, old buddy!
My 94 chevy s-10 2.2 never rebuilt eng. Uses about a qrt. every 1,200 miles ! only because the cylinder walls are polished ! It has 655,242 miles on her and puts a smile on my face how good the motor still runs ! Lovely video by the way !
Thinner oils are supposedly to keep the emissions lower, but that's for vehicles that are designed for it, an engine with a lot of wear and clearances a thicker oil gives it more cushion.
Can you tell me how long the B12 treatment last? I saw you initially achieved almost 1K miles/qt oil.
Appreciate your work. Best videos on YT.
How do you vote, that yamalube did a great job cleaning pistons. I would want to see a piston soak with that stuff.
community page on his channel
Just use Berrymans again sir. After reviewing your berrymans part 1 and part 2 I noticed that you didn’t do the procedure properly so this could be why the problem persists, I did the same piston soak for 6 hours I WAS burning 1qt per 400-500mi. BMW so known to burn oil due to oil control ring size, location/size of oil drain back holes on the pistons, and carbon build up overtime. I’ve driven 1256mi. and still at the top dot on the electronic dipstick. Thinner viscosity oil won’t do anything, it may even end up burning more than before. If compression is good across the cylinders then it’s oil control rings.
OK now its time to try 20w50!
So the thinner oil was better? Extra 100miles than before?
Have you tried ams oil flush and fuel system treatment then using ams engine oil
I had an 88 Cavalier back in my youth that had a serious oil leaking and burning problem, but I was very stupid back then and didn't know how to do any mechanic work. I would love to go back to 2002 and approach that old car with what I know now. I wonder if I could have made the engine run a lot better instead of just driving it into the ground (which took a surprisingly long time with no maintenance).
I thought I noticed Pennzoil platinum and ultra platinum were clear and on the thin side when I 1st use it when it came out. Now it comes out thick and looks like an oil color. I wonder if it’s just my brain and I’m mistaken or they did something.
0:24 LOL this corolla is getting fresh oil every 500 miles :) I like the idea of the experiment though
I read on the Barryman’s B12 bottle that the B60 high mileage fuel system rejuvenator should be used on vehicles that have not had regular fuel system maintenance every 3,000 miles. I know you had good results with B12 so maybe the B60 will work better. My 2010 Chevy Malibu 2.4L is using a quart per 1k miles. I am going to try the B60 first.
Your theroy at the start of the video with the thinner oil getting into the rings and hopefully helping clean them out is something i have also thought about doing with my car. In the middle of doing my stem seals atm hopedully see an improvment. Recent compression test had 4 psi variations and numbers were fairly high. I also do my oil changes every 3000kms i would say with all your testing doin your oil changes youve helped the longivity of the engine alot and helped clean it out
The interesting thing about the engine is that it has good compression. Could the oil rings be installed upside down or wrong the type of oil ring is installed? Or are the drain back passages still clogged.
The cross hatch pattern on the cylinder walls should be visible and consistent on the entire cylinder wall. A positive pressure in the crank case may prevent the oil from draining back. Check the PVC system for proper operation. Go to the Toyota dealer ship and check the service records to find out if this engine was taken apart.
The catalytic converter code is due to oil damaging the catalyst. It's also likely the catalytic converter was replaced at some time.
Tip, use general purpose grease on the filter seal, Not oil. Filter will not fall off and will not be as hard to remove. Use it on diesel engines filters all the time, detroit and cummins etc etc.
Question; do i have to wear minimalist sandals & cargo shorts when changing my oil!?😂 Just kidding! Keep up the testing! Great vids!
You don't have to, but it certainly makes things easier. ;-) Thanks!
You can try 20w50 oil too, it’s recommended by toyota for older cars like our 2005 echo
I bet it works better than the thin 5w20 oil
20w50 Petronas Selenia HPX sintetic tehnologi
It might not drain back down from the heads to the oil pan fast enough starving the bottom end for oil. It will also put a drag on timing components which could end up badly. 20W50 is for cast iron motors that are of the racing variety or worn out.
@@jeffrobodine8579 it’s recommended by Toyota dealership and used by them for older high mileage cars so it won’t hurt anything
But maybe it’s better not to use it in winter if it gets really cold where you’re from
@@aleksandarvujnovic411 or maybe the Amsoil one, I’m not 100% sure but I think they make one
@@dominozondaAny chance you might have a citation for that? It's an extraordinary claim, so it merits extraordinary support. Otherwise, we're stuck here with the dilemma of putting our faith in a second-hand conversation.
I'd like a bacon cheeseburger, fries and a small Sprite.
Pennsoil Platnium of all types including Ultra Platnium tend to have weak additive packages which is why I specificly recomended Mobil-1 FS 0W40. Up until recently it had a robust additive package and a healthy dose of AN and Ester's for cleaning. Might be too late now as I hear they have changed the recipe so not as great as it was a the last 15+ years!
I have a 2002 toyota allion, it has the same engine and i have to add a bit of oil like every 3k miles, so it's not bad but i just flushed the engine with castrol engine shampoo and changed the oil with castrol 5w30 full synthetic and put in a liqui moly oil smoke stop into it, even tho there is never visible smoke but i just want to try it anyway 😅
It's worth mentioning that the dealership where I purchased my 2018 4runner insisted that Toyota wants the oil between the upper and lower dots on the dipstick, the engine is designed for 0w20 oil with a 10k miles change interval, this seems high to me however I'm not an mechanical engineer so that's what I do, so far as you might expect everything is good, about 50k on the clock
Check out some of the videos from The Car Care Nut channel regarding these 10k intervals.
He does NOT recommend them.
Remember, oil is cheap compared to a new engine
@@EmbraceTheSuck…and he is specifically a Toyota Master Tech who spent decades working for Toyota.
10k would be ideal circumstances which never happens in the real world. My Grand Caravan gets done every 2500 miles. I use it for work so some idling and towning a trailer at times. Close to 250k on it with no leaks or noticeable wear.
The suggested oil viscosity by the auto manufacturers has more to do with meeting EPA cafe fuel requirements rather than engine longevity much like the "lifetime" transmission fluid. In every other country Toyota and the other manufacturers allow for oil viscosity up to 20W-50 even on newer modern engines. Most people aren't aware that the oil viscosity difference between a 0W-16 oil and a 20W-50 oil at 212F is the difference of only 15cST. That may seem significant but when you consider that if the oil is at 100F, the 0W-16 oil cST can be in the hundreds and when it's 40F outside, in the thousands of cST. The only benefit of a thin oil is for cold start performance and fuel economy but once at operating temperature, the fuel economy benefits are nearly non-existent.
I did the test on a SAAB 1.9 TID , 5w30 it leaked oil with 5w40 it's like 1/4 of what it was
So what are the results? Burning more oil or less oil?
had a 04 solara was going thru 1 quart every 500 miles add oil on Wednesday change oil on Sunday repeat
About 7:00: there is almost no smoke from exhaust (unlike it was at first series) That's a good sign, but where the oil goes then?
Loving the videos. Any votes for Liqui Molly Engine Flush? If not, i vote for another B-12 followed by BG dynamic...
32:18 hardened valve seats for unleaded ?
Dave, you will need to use regular oil to slow the oil consumption. Synthetic oil is much slicker and from my experience with a 1985 Z28 which was using oil, I started using old school oil which helped alot.
Non-synthetic oil also sludges much more easily, so while it seems to help short term, it makes the source problems worse long term by introducing gummified oil into the mix. I did research on my own car's high mileage 1MZ, and it is known for bad sludge buildup when using anything not full synthetic. While I know it's not the same engine nor the same laundry list of issues, since he's already been using full synthetic with the 1ZZ, he should stick to it both so that he doesn't introduce the possibility of sludged oil and so that the tests remain consistent. Any sludging that might have been there before he got the car will be long washed away by the boatload of detergents that have been run through the crankcase, and IMHO it should stay that way for consistency, so that any detergents in the future aren't being used up to clean out gummed oil, rather than the rings and drains of the pistons.
@@kmemznot with oil intervals done timely.
Someone tossing synthetic oil in an older car that ran on mineral all it's life is typically why they start to leak like a sieve a couple hundred miles after the change. High-detergent synthetics are REALLY good at cleaning out the sludge that formed an impromptu barrier around the old gaskets & seals
@@Generaider I run full synthetic oils in all of my 30+ year old vehicles. You are correct 💯 but with proper upkeep, not an issue.
Haven’t watched the whole series but very interesting none the less. The Yamalube really seemed to clean things a lot.
The Berryman per your words actually improved the oil burning.
Dunno how you came to conclude it is your oil rings or drain back holes.
Could be leaky valve oil seals. The get brittle with age and can leak oil down into the cylinders.
My 2 cents.
Didn't he already replace the valve seals in a previous episode on the oil burning series?
Why don't you prefill your oil filter? I am 69 and just learned that it really does help that first "dry start" from happening. I also put the biggest diameter oil filter that will fit on my Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8L instead of the shot glass size one that Chrysler puts on them from the factory. The beer mug I put on holds almost a full qt of nice clean oil.
I usually get 300k plus miles out of all my cars, I've never gotten rid of a car because the engine was worn out, and I've never pre-filled an oil filter. Why start now? :-)
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY That's good on you. However, I plan to get at least 500K out of each of my vans. One less dry start could help me do that. 😜
Looking at the color of oil it appears airfilter might be due for replacement
A throttle body cleanup along with air filter replacement & new set of spark plugs could give it a new like feel
Also, in you case I would use the straight oil like Valvoline 50 raising... in your climate this engine doesn't need multi grade oil... 40 and 50 should be fine.
If there were no benefits, maybe try mobile one high mileage 10 W-40 And your choice of high-quality oil filter I would think that would slow down or stop the oil use. You might want to check your TCV valve. It might be stuck open.
Did you see the USS Yorktown ?
I really think you would see an improvement adding 1 quart of dextron 3 ATF to replace 1 quart of oil. And maintain that ratio every time you add oil. This will take 5000 to 7500 miles before you see the reduction in consumption. This is my observation on my Mercedes diesel that had considerable blowby and consumption. I also have a blowby catch can and dump the oil that is caught by it back into the crankcase.
What transmission brand do you use?
Valvoline ATF if I can find it, otherwise whatever brand the local store carries@@CJ-nk1ls
Have you thought about replacing the valve stem seals to see if your oil consumption changes. It would be a interesting video to help confirm that the pistons are the problem on your engine.
Unless a valve stem seal has physical damage or missing a chunk of rubber worn cylinder walls/stuck rings will burn much more oil. I have a EJ25 I just replaced the valve stem seals and head gaskets on with dealer parts and it burns a quart every 500 miles because the cylinders are worn.
Have you considered rocking the piston with two Rod's driven by opposed eccentrics... While adding solvent to the ring Gap... I was able to get at least 1 MPG improvement not to mention performance.... Oil consumption still being measured... Please remove if this is considered off topic...
use w20--50 oil and if that will not stop oil consumpton or slow it down , then rebuild the engone.
I think you just need to do the good ol' italian tune up, 3 cars of family members that were babied stopped burning oil after I had driven them for a while, gunning from stops and such :P
Also has Dave checked the engine temperature before the thermostat cycles on-off? I've noticed if you have an aftermarket thermostat installed, the car runs much hotter than if you have a Toyota OEM thermostat with the jiggle valve in the correct position. With this car the thermostat is supposed to cycle on at 190F and cycle off at 180F. With the aftermarket thermostat, car ran a full 10F hotter than with the OEM thermostat. Cooling fan cycles on at around 210F so having the improper thermostat would not only cause the car to run hotter but have the cooling fan run more frequently. A hotter car will burn more oil.
I work at a engine rebuild shop and I just removed a set of pistons with stuck oil rings from a EJ20 Subaru. I will try which liquid will loosen them up and let you know here.
That would be awesome! I'd like to know if simply soaking in warm soapy water (Dawn) for 24 hours, or Totally Awesome cleaner would do it.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I'm from The Netherlands so we can't get those here. My plan is to immerse one in DPF cleaner, one in paint thinner and one in petroleum.
A neutral solution of tetrasodium edta and citric acid (stihl decarbonizer) might be worth a try.
@@WieDrDerJongeyou can't get soapy water in the Netherlands?
Any updates?
You should try Lucas Engine complete it goes in the fuel and the oil and I put a whole can in each and ran it and since then I've been doing a half a can and already I'm starting to burn less oil my motor has 330000 miles on a 2001 Toyota Echo 1.5
I would try draining oil overnight during every change , you can get about 1/2 qt more out and get more of the old oil and chemical additives out. I then would change the oil every 3,000 miles .And see how you do after several oil changes and how clean the oil becomes.
I would also check oil levels after the car sits for at least a few hours , or better yet overnight.
I usually drain my oil overnight, but at least on my cars, once it get down to a slow drip after a half hour or so, continuing to let it drain overnight only gets me another couple ounces. And when you change the oil and filter, you will normally only get around 80% of the oil out and the rest will stay in the oil pan, pump, cooler, head, block, crankshaft, VVT systems, etc. The only way around this is to remove and tear down the entire engine, so the practical solution is to simply not neglect your oil changes to the point where the little bit of old oil that will inevitably be left over is a problem.
Well after a long day, I can sleep thru the night and finish the oil change/ fill in the AM when it is warmer and I have better light. This is not speedy oil change, this is the way I do all my cars. My lawn equipment I drain for at least an hour during my lunch break. I check my oil after the car sits all night and run the oil level at the middle point between the high and low marks. The way some/most people do it they leave at least 1/2 qt. and more in the car. Why would I tear down my Toyotas, none of them burn oil. I also pre fill my oil filters so the oil pressure rises a little quicker. I'm a professional race mechanic on vintage bikes and that's the way we do things.
@@averyalexander2303 Maybe the oil that is burnt off quickly is the old worn out oil you leave in the engine. At a "quick lube" place they leave about a qt. plus in It definitely helps they bottom line profit wise, but hurts your bottom end and pocket book..
It's a shame that oil drain plugs are not at the very lowest point to do a better job of getting more of the old oil out. The transmission pans are the worst in that they leave the debris and sludge in as well as a lot of ATF in the transmission.
@@carlhokanson9160 I never said or meant to imply that draining the oil overnight is a bad practice at all, just that it doesn't drain significantly more oil out on my cars compares to only letting it drain for 20-30 minutes. I just drain overnight because I feel that it's the most convenient way and getting a couple extra ounces of old oil out is nice. Maybe on some cars the difference would be more dramatic.
There is a point in engines life where oil consumption is happening because mechanical/physical changes that took place with cylinder walls and pistons...with increased tolerances pistons are not fully parallel at some points to cylinder walls, thus oil ring not square to the wall as wall. So, oil rings will leave oil on surface of the cylinder wall...in two areas apposite of each other (perpendicular of the piston pin ), These areas are usually showing clean edges (oil wash) on top of the piston.
the only solution in this case is to rebuild the engine... replace pistons will fix the issue... cylinder walls looked to be in OK shape and should last another 200K.
I think super check just came out with a 20,000 mile oil filter I wouldn’t go more than 12,000 myself if that doesn’t work try the ultra platinum 5W 30 and go about 8000 miles since it’s not an extended life oil
Also check the PCV system to make sure its working well. A good strong vacuum on the crankcase also helps the rings seal. This is interesting and fun to watch. I worked for Toyota and we would replace the pistons and rings to fix this problem. Make sure your PCV system is operating correctly. Great videos brother.
He has already changed the PCV and Valve seals check his past videos.
Would you do this replacement on a Gen4 RAV 4?
Glad to see you on my home turf. How was East Bay deli?
And Lewis which I think is highly overrated given the wait time.
They were great!-- but expensive compared to my usual haunts. You're right, Lewis was quite a wait, but my daughter said I'd love it, and it was very good brisket. I could've eaten a quart of that green chile corn pudding too :-)
Im tagging along for about a year. 2006 Frontier 4.0/V6. My oil mileage is about 200M/quart and all the "snake oil" didn't do a thing. For all the VVT engines (variable valve timing) where the valve phasing is controled by engine oil pressure/flow any thickening oil additive or higher viscosity is a NO NO. An oil change with the correct viscosity did fix my self induced problems up to now. I haven't tried the the top approach yet because it's too time consuming. @@FamilyFriendlyDIY
I’ll share this experiment with my friend his tesla burns oil also 😅
🤣
Some of them burn coal too. Depends on the power plant 😁
Why not use thicker oil as 10W40 or 10W50? Using 5W30, seems too thin for the age and mileage this car has.
Experiment nobody asked but everybody needed :D I'm curious if the results would be the same in an engine that doesn't have a problem with excessive oil consumption
One thin that will help will be upper cylinder lubricant. I use hot shot secret LX4 and eco boost max in my gas, made engine more powerful at low gears and improved MPG. They are not expensive as their MPG improvement will make up for their cost.
So my question is, have you done heavier oil? My prediction was that thinner would blow-by easier, and I think that's what you saw. I believe the best advise would be what any classic muscle car guy would tell you to do, since this is something they run into often. So have we done Heavier oil designed for high mileage cars?
Haven't done heavier oil yet.
My first car was a 1960 Bugeye Sprite. This guy and I speak the same anglophile language.
NEW RINGS required. With the amount of time and products spent, it wouldve been done. But we wouldve missed your great vids. :) Re the filter, I use a plastic bag and remove it with the bag around it. Also, you may want to consider filling the new oil filter with oil prior to install and while you're filling, remove the dipstick, it will improve the drain speed whilst filling.
Thanks for the suggestions!
I think you reached the end of added liquid experiments. It seems clear that the rings may have too much carbon that won't come off with an additive or may not come off quickly, it may come off slowly over time if you kept at this. It seems clear to me that the piston oil ring has failed to do its job and possibly the oil drain holes in the piston may also be just too plugged up. A tear down of the pistons would be labor intensive but would make an interesting series to watch. You'd be able to solve this problem once and for all.
Who loves the cat is a good man.
You can try a Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush before you go thicker again.
Lucas oil, change pcv valve, BG engine restoration
Dave what about doing a Kerosene flush to clean the oil rings and holes . 3 Quarts of kerosene and one quart oil
Motor flush is pretty much pure kerosene.
before I watch the video I predict no change or worse, as I believe your issue is the piston oil holes, and probably the rings still a bit of gunk in them, now I shall watch.
ok watched the relevant bits, as I say each time, clean out the piston oil return holes, even make them a bit bigger, everything else is probably a waste of time.
How to do that without taking the pistons out, is the real exercise and challenge to tackle, at some stage you might agree with me, I could be wrong.
Have you ever replaced a quart of oil with automatic transmission fluid, like type F and run the car and see what happens????
not yet
@@FamilyFriendlyDIYtry that, and like someone else said, try 20-50. Would make a couple good videos
I suspect when you tear down this engine when you get the pistons out you will find that those gray-ish black lines inside the bore are more pronounced than you think and that the bores are damaged. To most it does not look like much but it is a sign that the bore is damaged. Which came first the bore damage or the oil control rings being stuck? Classic chicken or the egg. You have to keep in mind that it does not take much deviation in a cylindrical bore for pronounced oil consumption to happen.
Your bearing clearance will be the deciding factor with thinner oil. Tighter tolerances will allow for the use of thinner oil so all is relevant, however thinner oil with a larger bearing gap can lead to bearing failure from excessive bearing clearance causing either rod knock or spun bearings or both so be careful and choose wisely.
You should really fill up the oil filter before screwing it in... Before you top up after the first engine start you look at the marks on the jug anyway to know how much oil you've put in the engine, so those 200-250ml of oil you'd put in the filter can be accounted for, and as a (huge) bonus you will not run your main and rod bearings dry for a good couple of seconds when you start the engine first time after an oil change.
Thicker oil normaly only helps if it is valve guides and seals. If it is rings normaly a thinner oil helps more often!
There is no such thing as an Austin 1700 head from this era. He may have meant 1071.
22:55 Just change that Leaky head gasket, Dave...
You probably should have prefilled the filter.