Thanks for watching guys! I promise, I know the difference between a newton-meter and a nanometer 🤣Leave a comment, like, subscribe, do all that. Love you. Merrrrry Christmas
Not N but n. N is Newton and n is nano. M is mega and m is meter. This is important. I see that you have noticed it but I had to write, or sit in a corner shaking. Easier to write and get it out of my system. :)
The best solution imo - text as a negative to remove it from the model. the fill with thick filler color. the walls created with this, will create a good barrier - but you have wait time for the paint to dry. looks the imo the best, if you look for good readable text - and you can color it the way you want. other than that - with an material changer and a well tuned machine you can have great text bottom/top facing.
The cost would outweigh any potential upcharge. I'd much rather have a video show us how to create an inset logo that we can then apply to all our prints.
Is it that 3D printed text sucks or that FFM text sucks? Every printing technology has pros and cons. FFM multi-colour/multi-toolhead can do things that resin or SLS cannot and vice versa. I think a larger problem that is rarely addressed is the end user's expectations, and most of them are made in ignorance. People want a one-stop-shop result from a technology that it simply cannot provide. Just like with cars, there is no single "this is the best car" option. it all depends on what you need it to do and there will ALWAYS be tradeoffs. The key is in understand them AND accepting them. Injection molding will ALWAYS beat FFM or resin in speed. FFM will always have an advantage over resin in multi-colour prints. FFM will always have a time advantage over injection molding when it comes to the time from completion of a design until the first physical iteration is produced as no mold has to be cut first. Each technology is kind of like an AD&D character. You won't get 18's for every stat. Your mage might be wise and dexterous but the tradeoff is that they are weak and ugly...unless you cheat during character generation and that's a whole different argument. lol Lasers are good assuming you can focus the light on the spots you want to cut/engrave. If text is truly so important then I don't think you'll ever see one single printing technology that will be fast, super accurate, beautiful surface finish and calligraphy level script AND not be wasteful in both material and energy. Like as with MANY areas in llife I find people tend to spend more time complaining about what they do not have rather than showing genuine appreciation and gratitude for what they do have. Here we are complaining about 3D printed text quality but 20 years ago this was not even an argument 99.9% of the global population would have ever even considered let alone engaged in. Then again there's a perfectly good chance that I just spend FAR too much time pondering things like this because my Asperger's doesn't allow me to understand "normies" very well...or at all in many cases.
The best way is to just fill your letters with paint or, if you want a flush finish dye some epoxy and fill it after post processing. A lot of professionals have been doing it for years.
@@firelion98 Yes he did, but that's not my point. Businesses are also sensitive to costs. He highlighted the waste issue as a justification for this solution so it was a valid thing to comment on. It will be up to the buyer to decide what is best but it's not an automatic solution if you are avoiding a waste that costs less than the solution.
That’s true but I think also you could justify higher prices with something like inserts, adding in wood and metal, etc. Also for businesses I think it’s less about the material waste and more about the time wasted printing multicolor.
I’ve been marking minispools as samples for the students at work on our laser, we’ve got a combined CO2 Fibre laser. Nice work! Will have to do some testing when I get back to work to dial in the settings more! I did find that Polymaker Black PLA Pro goes a very very light, almost white, grey on our machine.
meh debossed text without color change then fill with a syringe with colored uv epoxy set with uv amazing results that add zero print time and only little time to color the text but the result is amazing
@@Crushonius You could even get away with using nail polish or acrylic/enamel paints if resin isn't an option. Since it's debossed, the chances of it scratching or rubbing away are negligible.
@@Pepperham04 you are right of course but i think resin is better, because you actually fill the hole . Of course If you can not get resin or you are out then even acrylic paint would work and nail polish like you said
My UV laser does a much better job on plastic over the CO2 or Fiber. It does a great job of marking without melting or distorting the surface at all. UV is like a cheat code for laser marking plastics
@thenextlayer they are still a bit more expensive than CO2, Fiber or Diode so they are not as common yet. They dump a lot less heat into the material and are capable of marking almost any material. The only big downside over the Fiber is they can only mark, not deep engrave or cut metals. I mainly use mine to mark Datamatrix codes on black PET plastic parts. It makes a light gray marking, with extra fine detail, and no heat damage.
@@thenextlayer UV Lasers are designed specifically to engrave/mark plastics, so the ideal choose for this. (I have a small laser cutting/engraving company and the UV laser is probably my most used laser.)
It could be a RUclips just not showing the difference and my on existent 3d printing experience, but I think I prefer the 3d printed text. The inserts also look cool, but I found most of the engraved swatches poor to pristine passable. Still neat tech, and for the inserts would be nice to have, but honestly I’d not be running out to purchase one. Also, could you not 3d print the text separately and insert it into the main piece? Use glue to adhere it, and I could see that being less wasteful and cleaner looking. Not great for fine text though.
Appreciate the feedback. It was worth exploring! I think the inserts by far are the coolest option but don’t make sense for like a dashboard label or something
I get beautiful multi colored lettering on the first layer on textured pei using Prusa Mk3S+/MMU3, X1C/AMS, Trident/Palette 3 Pro, and TLD3 Pro Idex. It just takes some time tuning and you're good to go. I have a 100w CO2 laser that also works great for some post processing, but I prefer the multi color printing for text where applicable.
Hey, Jonathan, for cases of working with models and as a cheaper alternative, what do you think of adding the negative of the desired text in the model, and then using plastic putty and pushing it into the negative space of the text to fill it up, and scrape the excess off? The putty won't flow so it could be done at any orientation and it could be either mixed with some paint or bought at a desired color.
@galgrunfeld9954 The puty Solution is a great idea just make sure to apply it with care and wipe it clean carefully. For anyone with two hands the result will be fine.
It is also possible to 3d print an insert with a small nozzle, ideally with multicolor, instead of directly print it into the model. Like the Satoshi name plaque.
@@thenextlayer Sure, but as a budget option and to avoid too many filament changes. If you can have a laser, have a laser. If you can have an UV printer, have an UV printer.
Nice video. Actually I did some colour texts with manual filament switch on the bottom three layers. This works quite well and the results are great if printing big text (like prusas mk3 display case or a case for an Amiga2000 to USB-adapter). However, to print smaler text you realy want a nozzle with 0.2 mm or less. With a Revo hotend you actually could do a manual nozzle swap - practicaly the same way you do a manual filament swap, as all the nozzles have the exact same length. So you could print the first layers with 0.25 or even 0.15 mm nozzle diameter (takes quite a long time) and with 0.4mm (or even 0.6, 0.8mm...) print the rest. The number of layers to be printed with the small nozzle (and filament changes) depends on the filament you use. Dark text on bright filament normaly only needs 2 or 3 layers, bright colour on black need more. Transparent filaments of course need much more. Open Source slicers seem not to allow different nozzle sizes for "virtual extruders". So you have to slice twice with different nozzle sizes set. Than you need to combine the gcode. Quite a lot of work, but definitly worth it.
@@thenextlayer Definitly. However, the same way you can make an indent on the 3d print to glue a metal laser engraved plate onto it, you of course also can glue a seperate 3d printed piece with labeling done on the first few layeres inside the indent. Such a seperate piece would be less than a mm thick (f.e. 4 layers of 0.2 mm), so quiete flexible and nice for a plaque on the side or top of your 3d print. Of course some downsides for some nozzles, like also smal first layerhight, so no textured plate (minimum 0.2mm first layer there, not possible with 0.15mm extrusion width). Another alternative for fine colourfull prints: Print in white filament and use dyesub transfer. Many inkjet printers with piezo printhead can be filled with dyesub ink instead normal ink. Best of course for flat surfaces, but still the method of printing a plaque and glue it (in)to the side also works. This method is much cheaper than buying a fibre laser. You only can use light filament colours to dyesub on, but of course you can use filamentchange to make a white space only where you want to do the dyesub. However, you should use ABS or higher temp material, as you use an iron with about 200°C and a silicone sheet to transfer the print in about 75 seconds. PLA would deform, ABS mostly withstand this duration at this temperature. Please do not missunderstand: I love the idea to use fibre laser. It´s just a bit outside my budget. If I would have the budget, a Prusa XL would be my priority. So maybe in two or three years I might consider a fibre laser. As the fibre laser destroys the dye on the top of the print, it might be interesting to see if dyesub could be applied to the bleached out areas. For metal plaques dyesub also can be an alternative to using a laser. Dyesub works on any plastic surface. However, a simple transparent coating is enough. Its the same techniqe used to make coffee mugs, mouse pads etc. with your individual prints. Simply use transparent coating on a metal plate and you can transfer your full colour print onto it.
Because I'm an idiot and didn't think about it. But also, the test patterns can vary in depth and power, but not in frequency for some reason. That ended up not mattering, but I thought frequencies would matter more.
Definitely need to keep an open mind to mixing materials with 3d printing.... But I still love it when its 100% 3DP.... But I do wish I had time space money for lazer engravers and other machines 😅
no... just no. This does NOT look any better than just using color changes or inset text; its less crisp and introduces a variety of other problems, and just doesnt really look that good to be honest. I get that you're just trying to come up with video ideas, as well as sell the laser engraver in the description, but come on, you're not fooling anyone, it looks the same, if not worse than 3d printed text of any form.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I'll admit I regret not cleaning the fingerprints off of some of those inserts before filming, because I didn't do them justice. But also, you might like the 3D printed look, and that's cool. To me, I MUCH prefered the fridge labels with laser etched ones. Every time I open my fridge I see the ugly seams on the printed ones and it bugs me :)
The information on your swatches is incomplete without knowing the power of the laser. And by power I mean Watts, not percentage! 100% of a 20W laser is only 20% of a 100W laser.
@@thenextlayer yea i actually was looking in the comments to seee this myself... i have a 20w fiber that i use to mark (company name, year, and qr code to our etsy store) on all my products that have a black back, but i didn't do a lot of color pla plastic tests as i was under the impression it was really hard to get any result on anything that wasn't a dark color and also i read each filament vendor can result in different marking as well... so its awesome to know the power you had, its an important part of it for sure
I am wondering, you may have said this and I missed it, could you not make a dual layer print of contrasting colours, then laser engrave to expose the lower layer? BTW. Hanukkah sameach
Thanks! Umm I don't know, the laser doesn't like to reomve material that much. Needs more testing. But also, i fyou have to do 2 colors all the way up that's super wasteful.
Can you start with the price, so I can stop watching? JK. This was cool to watch, and now I have something to dream about. Just wish this was more like $500.
Not only 3d prited text suck, 3d prited surfaces suck in general. Everybody just slapping fuzzy skin and calling it a day, but in reality, it sucks even more.
You can get engraving plastic that's a sheet of one color with a thin layer of another, that you can then burn off. Wouldn't something similar work for 3D prints? Throw a contrasting color of paint on, then laser it off?
Fiber is basically industrial level lasers, so they don't come cheap even for a fiber ONLY unit. $3k is a cheap end of the spectrum for costs on a unit like this.
You're doing a fantastic job! I have a quick question: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). How can I transfer them to Binance?
@@thenextlayer Maybe I was a little harsh in that one moment so let me commend the effort you are investing into your channel. It must be challenging to address the preferences of a wide variety of viewers. Speaking for my own sensibilities - 1. Engineering background 2. 3D printing is a rewarding and useful hobby. Have learned a lot over the last couple of years thanks to RUclipsrs like yourself 3. Looking to get introduced to more advanced techniques and tools 4. Don't need basic instruction 5. Don't prefer entertaining asides or constant B-roll interjections 6. Willing to pay for information of value. Perhaps I'm not your target audience but you clearly have a lot of passion, knowledge and commitment to 3D Printing and I do respect that, as well as your open mind. Whatever segments you focus upon, I think you're going to go far.
Thank you for excellence video bro Jonathan . My name's Takhir . I want to contribute to the development of 3d technology . My project means solving three main problems of the printing processes . I am would like to contact with doktor Ye Tao . I'm will be glad , if you support me in this matter .
Thanks for watching guys! I promise, I know the difference between a newton-meter and a nanometer 🤣Leave a comment, like, subscribe, do all that. Love you. Merrrrry Christmas
1064 newtonmeters? That is plenty of torque for a laser engraver.
brain fart! I put the title on screen because I caught it in editing! lol.
@thenextlayer happens to the best of you too! Keep up the good work!
sold. i'll be using that engraver from now on to change tires on my car.
Not N but n. N is Newton and n is nano. M is mega and m is meter. This is important.
I see that you have noticed it but I had to write, or sit in a corner shaking. Easier to write and get it out of my system. :)
Hahahaha fair.
Look up Batch Reseach Lab Updates Fall 2024, they explained how they got both Light and dark, only works on PETG and not PLA
That explains a lot!
nAnO NeWtOn mEgA wAvEleNgTh mEtErs?!?!?!? **smashes phone**
The best solution imo - text as a negative to remove it from the model. the fill with thick filler color. the walls created with this, will create a good barrier - but you have wait time for the paint to dry.
looks the imo the best, if you look for good readable text - and you can color it the way you want.
other than that - with an material changer and a well tuned machine you can have great text bottom/top facing.
The cost would outweigh any potential upcharge. I'd much rather have a video show us how to create an inset logo that we can then apply to all our prints.
Ooh, that's a good idea too.
Come on, Jonathan, nm stands for nanometer, which is a unit of wavelength, while Nm refers to a measure of torque.
brain fart! I put the title on screen because I caught it in editing! lol.
Is it that 3D printed text sucks or that FFM text sucks? Every printing technology has pros and cons. FFM multi-colour/multi-toolhead can do things that resin or SLS cannot and vice versa. I think a larger problem that is rarely addressed is the end user's expectations, and most of them are made in ignorance. People want a one-stop-shop result from a technology that it simply cannot provide. Just like with cars, there is no single "this is the best car" option. it all depends on what you need it to do and there will ALWAYS be tradeoffs. The key is in understand them AND accepting them. Injection molding will ALWAYS beat FFM or resin in speed. FFM will always have an advantage over resin in multi-colour prints. FFM will always have a time advantage over injection molding when it comes to the time from completion of a design until the first physical iteration is produced as no mold has to be cut first. Each technology is kind of like an AD&D character. You won't get 18's for every stat. Your mage might be wise and dexterous but the tradeoff is that they are weak and ugly...unless you cheat during character generation and that's a whole different argument. lol
Lasers are good assuming you can focus the light on the spots you want to cut/engrave. If text is truly so important then I don't think you'll ever see one single printing technology that will be fast, super accurate, beautiful surface finish and calligraphy level script AND not be wasteful in both material and energy.
Like as with MANY areas in llife I find people tend to spend more time complaining about what they do not have rather than showing genuine appreciation and gratitude for what they do have. Here we are complaining about 3D printed text quality but 20 years ago this was not even an argument 99.9% of the global population would have ever even considered let alone engaged in. Then again there's a perfectly good chance that I just spend FAR too much time pondering things like this because my Asperger's doesn't allow me to understand "normies" very well...or at all in many cases.
Happy holidays!!!! May your benchys be warm and filament be tight!!!!
The best way is to just fill your letters with paint or, if you want a flush finish dye some epoxy and fill it after post processing. A lot of professionals have been doing it for years.
Good idea but it always makes a mess in between layers for me.
Multi-colour is wasteful but you can afford to waste a lot of plastic (about 250 spools!) for the $3500 US of that laser printer.
He said thats not for consumers
@@firelion98 Yes he did, but that's not my point. Businesses are also sensitive to costs. He highlighted the waste issue as a justification for this solution so it was a valid thing to comment on. It will be up to the buyer to decide what is best but it's not an automatic solution if you are avoiding a waste that costs less than the solution.
That’s true but I think also you could justify higher prices with something like inserts, adding in wood and metal, etc. Also for businesses I think it’s less about the material waste and more about the time wasted printing multicolor.
I’ve been marking minispools as samples for the students at work on our laser, we’ve got a combined CO2 Fibre laser.
Nice work! Will have to do some testing when I get back to work to dial in the settings more!
I did find that Polymaker Black PLA Pro goes a very very light, almost white, grey on our machine.
meh debossed text without color change
then fill with a syringe with colored uv epoxy
set with uv
amazing results that add zero print time and only little time to color the text but the result is amazing
You also save about $2,600 bucks.
@@StompGojiStomp indeed , this is just a joke of a commercial trying desperately to find a use for this overpriced piece of chit
@@Crushonius You could even get away with using nail polish or acrylic/enamel paints if resin isn't an option.
Since it's debossed, the chances of it scratching or rubbing away are negligible.
@@Pepperham04 you are right of course but i think resin is better, because you actually fill the hole . Of course If you can not get resin or you are out then even acrylic paint would work and nail polish like you said
@@Pepperham04 Not so sure about enamel never tried it with pla or petg . Have you tried it ? How good does it adhere to the plastic
This seems like an unreasonable solution unless you already own the laser machines to begin with.
Or you're selling products online and want to expand your range (metal, wood, ceramic, etc).
My UV laser does a much better job on plastic over the CO2 or Fiber. It does a great job of marking without melting or distorting the surface at all. UV is like a cheat code for laser marking plastics
Legit didn't know there was such a thing as a UV laser
@thenextlayer they are still a bit more expensive than CO2, Fiber or Diode so they are not as common yet. They dump a lot less heat into the material and are capable of marking almost any material. The only big downside over the Fiber is they can only mark, not deep engrave or cut metals.
I mainly use mine to mark Datamatrix codes on black PET plastic parts. It makes a light gray marking, with extra fine detail, and no heat damage.
@@thenextlayer UV Lasers are designed specifically to engrave/mark plastics, so the ideal choose for this. (I have a small laser cutting/engraving company and the UV laser is probably my most used laser.)
It could be a RUclips just not showing the difference and my on existent 3d printing experience, but I think I prefer the 3d printed text. The inserts also look cool, but I found most of the engraved swatches poor to pristine passable. Still neat tech, and for the inserts would be nice to have, but honestly I’d not be running out to purchase one.
Also, could you not 3d print the text separately and insert it into the main piece? Use glue to adhere it, and I could see that being less wasteful and cleaner looking. Not great for fine text though.
Too much work just to add text if add it separately
Appreciate the feedback. It was worth exploring! I think the inserts by far are the coolest option but don’t make sense for like a dashboard label or something
What about Infrared diode laser modules, I have both IR and Blue modules, and they are very different when engraving different materials and colours.
I get beautiful multi colored lettering on the first layer on textured pei using Prusa Mk3S+/MMU3, X1C/AMS, Trident/Palette 3 Pro, and TLD3 Pro Idex. It just takes some time tuning and you're good to go. I have a 100w CO2 laser that also works great for some post processing, but I prefer the multi color printing for text where applicable.
Where did you get that filament wall storage from?
It's called RepRack by RepKord you can make one
Hey, Jonathan, for cases of working with models and as a cheaper alternative, what do you think of adding the negative of the desired text in the model, and then using plastic putty and pushing it into the negative space of the text to fill it up, and scrape the excess off? The putty won't flow so it could be done at any orientation and it could be either mixed with some paint or bought at a desired color.
I've tried that, it gets messy and gets into layer lines :(
@galgrunfeld9954 The puty Solution is a great idea just make sure to apply it with care and wipe it clean carefully. For anyone with two hands the result will be fine.
Would doing multi-color text followed up with laser triming get a good result?
$3000 in credit with a shop like PCBWay would get ya a lot of engravings, too. Haha The exchange on that is turnaround times, though.
It is also possible to 3d print an insert with a small nozzle, ideally with multicolor, instead of directly print it into the model. Like the Satoshi name plaque.
True, then print them in bulk. But still not as pretty you know?
@@thenextlayer Sure, but as a budget option and to avoid too many filament changes. If you can have a laser, have a laser. If you can have an UV printer, have an UV printer.
Nice video.
Actually I did some colour texts with manual filament switch on the bottom three layers. This works quite well and the results are great if printing big text (like prusas mk3 display case or a case for an Amiga2000 to USB-adapter).
However, to print smaler text you realy want a nozzle with 0.2 mm or less. With a Revo hotend you actually could do a manual nozzle swap - practicaly the same way you do a manual filament swap, as all the nozzles have the exact same length. So you could print the first layers with 0.25 or even 0.15 mm nozzle diameter (takes quite a long time) and with 0.4mm (or even 0.6, 0.8mm...) print the rest. The number of layers to be printed with the small nozzle (and filament changes) depends on the filament you use. Dark text on bright filament normaly only needs 2 or 3 layers, bright colour on black need more. Transparent filaments of course need much more.
Open Source slicers seem not to allow different nozzle sizes for "virtual extruders". So you have to slice twice with different nozzle sizes set. Than you need to combine the gcode. Quite a lot of work, but definitly worth it.
Thanks for the thorough comment. Yeah, manual switches work, but if it's not on the first layer, it's ugly :(
@@thenextlayer Definitly. However, the same way you can make an indent on the 3d print to glue a metal laser engraved plate onto it, you of course also can glue a seperate 3d printed piece with labeling done on the first few layeres inside the indent. Such a seperate piece would be less than a mm thick (f.e. 4 layers of 0.2 mm), so quiete flexible and nice for a plaque on the side or top of your 3d print.
Of course some downsides for some nozzles, like also smal first layerhight, so no textured plate (minimum 0.2mm first layer there, not possible with 0.15mm extrusion width).
Another alternative for fine colourfull prints: Print in white filament and use dyesub transfer. Many inkjet printers with piezo printhead can be filled with dyesub ink instead normal ink. Best of course for flat surfaces, but still the method of printing a plaque and glue it (in)to the side also works.
This method is much cheaper than buying a fibre laser. You only can use light filament colours to dyesub on, but of course you can use filamentchange to make a white space only where you want to do the dyesub. However, you should use ABS or higher temp material, as you use an iron with about 200°C and a silicone sheet to transfer the print in about 75 seconds. PLA would deform, ABS mostly withstand this duration at this temperature.
Please do not missunderstand: I love the idea to use fibre laser. It´s just a bit outside my budget. If I would have the budget, a Prusa XL would be my priority. So maybe in two or three years I might consider a fibre laser.
As the fibre laser destroys the dye on the top of the print, it might be interesting to see if dyesub could be applied to the bleached out areas.
For metal plaques dyesub also can be an alternative to using a laser. Dyesub works on any plastic surface. However, a simple transparent coating is enough. Its the same techniqe used to make coffee mugs, mouse pads etc. with your individual prints. Simply use transparent coating on a metal plate and you can transfer your full colour print onto it.
Me considering doing the "we have this at home already" meme with a Creality 10w laser module for my CR10 😅
lets face it melting plastic has its limits and thats when a CNC or a Laser comes in
Absolutely
Why didn’t you laser a test pattern on a whole big piece of material instead of one chip at a time for every setting?
Because I'm an idiot and didn't think about it.
But also, the test patterns can vary in depth and power, but not in frequency for some reason. That ended up not mattering, but I thought frequencies would matter more.
So either a super expensive multi color printer or a laser engraver that costs twice as much lmao...
Definitely need to keep an open mind to mixing materials with 3d printing.... But I still love it when its 100% 3DP.... But I do wish I had time space money for lazer engravers and other machines 😅
Awww the penny dropped when you said filiment. Resin is the way to go.
As you said, a professional, honest and reliable video, thanks
I'm super flattered! THank you.
no... just no. This does NOT look any better than just using color changes or inset text; its less crisp and introduces a variety of other problems, and just doesnt really look that good to be honest. I get that you're just trying to come up with video ideas, as well as sell the laser engraver in the description, but come on, you're not fooling anyone, it looks the same, if not worse than 3d printed text of any form.
Yes, it does look pretty good and professional!
You probably didn't watched the same video as me 😂😂
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I'll admit I regret not cleaning the fingerprints off of some of those inserts before filming, because I didn't do them justice. But also, you might like the 3D printed look, and that's cool. To me, I MUCH prefered the fridge labels with laser etched ones. Every time I open my fridge I see the ugly seams on the printed ones and it bugs me :)
i bet theres some kind of paint on substance you can put on the plastic that'll react with the laser and produce the color you want.
i wonder if you just sprinkled the dust they put in epoxy resin to have it melt in and change the plastic color?
Oh damn that's a VERY good idea. I bet even clear coating and then burning off the clear would work. Darn, wish I'd thought of that before!
The information on your swatches is incomplete without knowing the power of the laser. And by power I mean Watts, not percentage! 100% of a 20W laser is only 20% of a 100W laser.
I thought I'd mentioned that it's 20W, sorry about that.
@@thenextlayer yea i actually was looking in the comments to seee this myself... i have a 20w fiber that i use to mark (company name, year, and qr code to our etsy store) on all my products that have a black back, but i didn't do a lot of color pla plastic tests as i was under the impression it was really hard to get any result on anything that wasn't a dark color and also i read each filament vendor can result in different marking as well... so its awesome to know the power you had, its an important part of it for sure
In what world do you live where metal and leather are "cheap"?
Yeah, good point. I guess what I meant was like, little placcards like the one I showed, which are like, $0.25 each.
I am wondering, you may have said this and I missed it, could you not make a dual layer print of contrasting colours, then laser engrave to expose the lower layer?
BTW. Hanukkah sameach
Thanks! Umm I don't know, the laser doesn't like to reomve material that much. Needs more testing. But also, i fyou have to do 2 colors all the way up that's super wasteful.
@the next layer I am thinking more of a single top layer horizontally. You are correct that it is not a general solution or even a solution at all
Can you start with the price, so I can stop watching? JK. This was cool to watch, and now I have something to dream about. Just wish this was more like $500.
Eventually prices will come down! And they have other older models….
This is an amazing video. Thank you so much. I was considering this for my prints because I HATE the way the gap engraved letters look.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. I was worried because normally my audience hates anything with lasers.
Really cool, Thanks for Sharing!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Is this your 3rd video title change in 4 hours? 🤪🤣
We change every hour for the first 36 ;)
Not only 3d prited text suck, 3d prited surfaces suck in general. Everybody just slapping fuzzy skin and calling it a day, but in reality, it sucks even more.
You can get engraving plastic that's a sheet of one color with a thin layer of another, that you can then burn off. Wouldn't something similar work for 3D prints? Throw a contrasting color of paint on, then laser it off?
2700 bucks? lol Ill waste my plastic instead sorry.
@@elonbrusque RUclips influencers have now become professional salespeople. Sad.
Flipping heck, that laser is 3000 bucks!!!
Fiber is basically industrial level lasers, so they don't come cheap even for a fiber ONLY unit. $3k is a cheap end of the spectrum for costs on a unit like this.
Word. I was surprised too, but wow, the range of things I can laser with it is UNREAL.
Weird, yellow and orange are the only colours i think look good etched
nm, um nano meter or micro meters ... not newton meter :-)
Remember when people used to flock to RUclips comments to comment "first"?
And then were wrong anyway because it took them too long to type out the comment?
Remember how annoying that was and we wished it would stop? And then people would talk about it, effectively doing the same thing? 😜
@ I do remember that! God, wow that was annoying
(Point taken)
@JacksMacintosh hahaha I'm just gently busting chops my friend. Have a wonderful holiday!
@@ravenovatechnologies6554 And to you as well!
LaserPecker? Is that anything like the Schwartz? ruclips.net/video/pPkWZdluoUg/видео.htmlsi=_kPCSZQCurpT_IXl
1064 newton meters 🤣
lol my next video is all about newton meters. Brain fart!
super glad you got a free lazer & paid, buuut pretty much click bait.... oh how the mighty have fallen, lol.
You're doing a fantastic job! I have a quick question: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). How can I transfer them to Binance?
lol this looks like a massive scam, nobody would post their seed phrase online, i hope.
3d print a stencil and paint it? Too low tech?
Oooh that's a good idea, too. You could do a jig actually . Love it. DIdn't think of it.
FINALLY!!!!
Hey you are descended from the Priest of God. How awesome
1. Newton-Meters 2. Can't get to the point 3. The ostensible point, finally arrived upon, has no point.
Fair feedback, thanks.
@@thenextlayer Maybe I was a little harsh in that one moment so let me commend the effort you are investing into your channel. It must be challenging to address the preferences of a wide variety of viewers. Speaking for my own sensibilities - 1. Engineering background 2. 3D printing is a rewarding and useful hobby. Have learned a lot over the last couple of years thanks to RUclipsrs like yourself 3. Looking to get introduced to more advanced techniques and tools 4. Don't need basic instruction 5. Don't prefer entertaining asides or constant B-roll interjections 6. Willing to pay for information of value. Perhaps I'm not your target audience but you clearly have a lot of passion, knowledge and commitment to 3D Printing and I do respect that, as well as your open mind. Whatever segments you focus upon, I think you're going to go far.
The presentation is so cringe. I can't take it, which is a shame. The content isn't bad, but this guy is insufferable.
I am with you. the whole video is great and informative and really like it. the intros, not so much
I don’t mind it. You’re looking too much into it.
I'm not for everyone, that's cool. You're welcome to shop elsewhere, no offense taken
I think the intro is hilarious and very funny!
Keep it up Jonathan!
Thank you for excellence video bro Jonathan . My name's Takhir . I want to contribute to the development of 3d technology . My project means solving three main problems of the printing processes . I am would like to contact with doktor Ye Tao . I'm will be glad , if you support me in this matter .
Hanukkah sameach
Spitting some hard truths!