great video pete!!! only one more thing you forgot to mention ...rust jacking most mechanics don't seem to sand and grind down the seats on the brake bracket (under the hardware) before putting the new hardware on it always do that plus I lubricate the bracket and the hardware or shims and the slide pins.. you probably are in a better climate than me in Chicago. ..thank you for keeping us sharp!!!
A mention on how to break in new pads on rotors would have been a nice addition to this piece. I also check the inside of the rim to see if it is built up with crud.
Good tips it really is sad/scary to see how many times people just pad slap old rotors, don't clean slide pins, don't remove rust between the wheel, rotor and hub. And the single most terrifying thing is people who do not torque wheels. A wheel off is the single most dangerous thing that can happen to a car at best you lose the wheel and slide to a stop. At worst the wheel flies off into on coming traffic and kills someone as the car that lost its wheel flips. Firestone has a good process, two techs have to check wheel torque and sign off on it on every car. When I quit working there it had been over 15 years since any Firestone had a "wheel off".
Good video and useful tips. I like to use new hardware also, plus I clean an lightly lube under the hardware. In the snow-belt states, it's common to find rust-jacking under the hardware that leads to stuck/frozen calipers.
Unfortunately I'm in one of the Canadian rust-belts (near salt-water AND we use salt on the roads 8/12 months of the year). If we tried to release the bleeder everytime we pressed the piston we would most likely snap them off. I understand and agree with what you say but it would likely turn a $40 pad replace job into a $200+ brake job more times than not.
great video pete!!! only one more thing you forgot to mention ...rust jacking most mechanics don't seem to sand and grind down the seats on the brake bracket (under the hardware) before putting the new hardware on it always do that plus I lubricate the bracket and the hardware or shims and the slide pins.. you probably are in a better climate than me in Chicago. ..thank you for keeping us sharp!!!
A mention on how to break in new pads on rotors would have been a nice addition to this piece. I also check the inside of the rim to see if it is built up with crud.
Great points John! Thanks for the comments.
Some very helpful tips. Really enjoy your joint productions with "G".
Good tips it really is sad/scary to see how many times people just pad slap old rotors, don't clean slide pins, don't remove rust between the wheel, rotor and hub. And the single most terrifying thing is people who do not torque wheels. A wheel off is the single most dangerous thing that can happen to a car at best you lose the wheel and slide to a stop. At worst the wheel flies off into on coming traffic and kills someone as the car that lost its wheel flips. Firestone has a good process, two techs have to check wheel torque and sign off on it on every car. When I quit working there it had been over 15 years since any Firestone had a "wheel off".
Good training and good tips Pete.
Great video
Getting a “good tips” from Eric O. at South Main Auto Repair is an honor.
Good video and useful tips.
I like to use new hardware also, plus I clean an lightly lube under the hardware. In the snow-belt states, it's common to find rust-jacking under the hardware that leads to stuck/frozen calipers.
👍🏻 very helpful. Thanks!
Unfortunately I'm in one of the Canadian rust-belts (near salt-water AND we use salt on the roads 8/12 months of the year). If we tried to release the bleeder everytime we pressed the piston we would most likely snap them off. I understand and agree with what you say but it would likely turn a $40 pad replace job into a $200+ brake job more times than not.
Thanks alot !!!
great info thank you