Always start plugs by turning in the wrong direction until you feel it click and the plug drop into the thread, then start gently turning clockwise. This aligns the threads and prevents cross threading. You can go backward several times to be sure you're at the start of the thread before starting the plug in. 🔩
I use this method when screwing a lot of things in. I have cross threaded something by hand and it felt normal, my only reference that something was wrong was half way down it jammed.
I use a slight coating of dielectric grease on the porcelain part of the plug and a small dose at the very beginning of the boot opening but not deep enough to get on any of the electrical connectors.
Keep in mind things in life are very forgiving, sure the plugs will go in without being torqued, and the wires will still conduct even if you dump dielectric grease on the conductors instead of the rubber boots. If you didnt get it right, relax, just dont expect 100k from your iridium plugs or 50k from your platinums. When in doubt, change em out - doing it perfectly every time comes with experience, and experience comes from doing it wrong and soaking in that feeling of stupidity and dread when it breaks. No school can teach you better than direct experience combined with attention and care.
NEVER put dielectric directly an any electrical surface connection as it is non conductive. You run the chance of causing complications with the electronics. One maker of fuel controllers states it will void the warranty if done as it is one of the main issues of failures.
With the dielectric grease, would it be good enough to just put a thin coat on the white ceramic part of the spark plug itself and not any on the boot? Then when the boot fits over it, the boot should end up with a thin coating and their will be no dielectric on the terminal/ post?
Sure, that would work. I've never had an issue, though, by adding a small amount at the boot. Be sure, too, to make sure the porcelain is clean and so is your plug socket to avoid getting contaminants on the porcelain.
Cooper anti-seize is conductive. I have some gray anti-seize which I am unsure of whats in it (label is a bit obscured) but the label says it is conductive (I can see that part). I've been changing plugs in my cars since age 14, I'm 63 now. I have observed the incredible hassle of a seized plug and knowing that anti-seize, recommended or not, will do no harm as long as you use small amount, I will always use anti-seize on plugs. Not saying you are wrong, that's just my default position. I've worked in aerospace all my life and two immutable rules are: Unless specifically prohibited or thread locker is required, no fastener installed w/o anti-seize and no O-ring in stalled dry, ever.
Regarding X-Man, I am wondering if having that much experience is actually a bad thing: Example: you are basing your current practice on what you learned 30-40 years ago, which was based on spark plug technology of 30-40 years ago. Current plug design is much different, and all manufactorers do NOT recommend anti-seize paste due to the special coating on the threads. Wisdom is great, but it is better if updated on a continual basis.
42 years experience in the aerospace industry. I've seen many anti-corrosion coatings fail, especially at mating surfaces of dissimilar metals. Anti-corrosion coatings on threads are particularly vulnerable were the coating on threads meets a dissimilar metal. Phosphate and nickel coating work well when they remain intact but the act off screwing plugs into cast iron or aluminum heads scuffs this coating. Aluminum is pron to galling and cast iron is very hard and brittle. If you have ever seen thread cut into cast iron under high magnification you'd note right away it is very jagged and will literally grind away coatings on mating or faying surfaces. Great advances have been made but the phenomena of Galvanic corrosion still exists. Maybe you don't need anti-seize on spark plugs now. But it is NOT harmful if used appropriately. It's good insurance policy. It also makes it easier to install plugs with long thread base. Only need a wrench to break torque or final tightening. BTW- anti-seize is required all over many new weapon systems including the newest of the new, F-22 and F-35. They have state of the art anti-corrosion plating/coating regimen designed into them but anti-seize and other anti-corrosion inhibitors are widely used. I will continue to use it on just about everything that doesn't require a thread locker. Rust (iron oxide) and other forms or corrosion never sleeps. Never.
I have been using "anti seize*" on thread engagements for over 40 years under the most stringent quality control codes in the world. Using anti seize on spark plugs is child's play. Just DO NOT put any of the compound on the first 4 threads; because the first 3 threads are started threads and can allow some of the metallic particles in the anti seize to be pulled into the combustion zone and coat the surface of the part of the spark plug that is with in the combustion chamber and causing the electric current to short to the engine head and ground. BUT if used wisely it make life so much easier when removing any threaded engagement, especially anything that is in a location of high heat. I use it on ALL spark plugs even the ones they say doesn't need it, I'm not taking any chances on stripping threads in a head or other high dollar component. I suggest getting the highest temperature rated antisepsis compound you can get your hands on. It doesn't take a lot just a light coating and avoid getting any around the tip. If you do blast it off with "Brake Clean**" cleaner. From NGK spark plug manufacture: "Torque recommendations are for spark plugs with new gaskets. If using anti-seize compound, use sparingly and reduce torque by 30%. NGK has created their recommendations based on the general consensus of most engine manufactures. In the case of a discrepancy between the plug manufacturer and engine manufacturers recommendations, always default to the engine manufacturer." * www.autozone.com/miscellaneous-cleaners-and-degreasers/lube/permatex-8-oz-226-8-g-anti-seize-lubricant/178722_0_0 ** www.autozone.com/brake-and-power-steering-fluid-additives/brake-cleaner/autozone-non-chlorinated-brake-cleaner/8130_0_0
The coin thingy works good for increasing he gap, then i used the wire type he has in video to close gap. Feeler gauge to check gap. The hole in coin is great for enlarge the gap.
You mean you don't use a 1/2" breaker bar and pull till it won't turn no more? ..... Seen people pull the threads out on a Victory oil plug. they either tighten it way to much , or worse turn it the wrong way when loosening as the plug sits on the bottom of the case and they get mixed up on which way to turn. Never will admit it, easier to blame the manufacture.
Torque is required on all new direct injected engines. There is alot of information about Volkswagens if not torqued can lead to burnt exhaust valves. The reason being is because when you torque the plug you actually are indexing the plug to a specific location. When this is not done you can burn the valve because where the flame front starts and stops. There is no current O.E. that suggest anti sieze. This can cause problems with the plug not getting the proper ground. Most problems that arise when plugs are not torqued. Under torque cause bad heat dissipation. Which can allow carbon to build up in threads. Where over torque will cause threads to he distorted which will cause gaulding upon removal.
Where's the fender cover? Good video but would like to add one extra inspection point. You mentioned cracks on the porcelain but also be aware or carbon tracking. It looks like a crack but is often overlooked because you can't feel it. Carbon tracking can and will cause intermittent misfire.
use anti-seize ALWAYS. If you ever had a stuck or broken plug in your head- you'll worship anti-seize. Just put a little on one side of the threads. As you install the plug- the rest of the thread will coat. Torque to about 90% of spec unless the manufacturer specified a 'lubed' torque spec. I torque my plugs to 26Nm with anti-seize. The really important point which was at the beginning of the video - after removing the boot / coil pack- blow out the port with compressed air BEFORE you remove the plug. You'd be amazed at the debris that can surround those plugs, especially if there is just a plug wire attached. You don't want anything like that falling into the chamber. Good luck everybody.
Well looks like I did it wrong. Just installed 8 plugs and coils in my 2004 Thunderbird and used the disc gap tool to gap the plugs. Was concerned about over-torquing so now wondering if I didn't tighten the plugs enough. Car seems to be running fine, and I sure don't relish the idea of taking them out. Thanks for the info, will know better next time.
Thanks for the video, Pete. Looks like I gotta pull my plugs and clean the crap (anti-seize) off. The factory service manual does not say anything about putting the stuff on, so I guess I should have not put it on. So, I guess I better pull em and clean them and the seats up.
Regarding the use of anti seize, I have been informed that when using anti seize on spark plugs one should use the copper type rather than the nickel. Additionally, on torque values for spark plugs, they are generally given for dry plugs. If one uses the dry torque value with anti seize the spark plugs are going to be over tightened and then one will run the risk of stripping the threads on aluminum cylinder heads.
johnwrench4speed The vast majority of plugs made today are made with a different material in the shell and the use of any anti-seize product is not recommended. Makers that do (auto and/or plug) are few and far between so my best suggestion is stay clear of it entirely.
Actually after chatting with multiple plug reps they do NOT recommend copper based antisieze, two reasons, it's actually more suited to exhaust manifold bolts and other high heat. Now silver antiseize us nickel based and suitable for ignition use. Also for the record as I was informed the plugs that have silver cast are nickel plated, and antiseize will NOT affect continuity high voltage ignitions. After destroying a $4800 head by not using it I still brush it on all plugs. In 30 years I have had to repair or replace heads from non use and have never had runability issue using it. IF manufacturer puts placard under hood fine but then the fools screwing Autolites into every car and then I have to redo tune ups. Chased hundreds of "will fit" parts induced drivability issues. I have had best luck sticking with or type plugs and specific ignition parts. Like Nissan's HATE aftermarket COPs. Never found aftermarket that don't throw codes. And even the ones that claim they make OE parts cause issues. Oh and I have worked on, built, tuned and diagnosed everything from Briggs and Stratton to nitro hemi funny car engines. 30 yrs have shown what works and what doesn't and I want this guy to tell me how to torque plugs than I can barely get my hand and stubby wrench into. Not saying there isn't torque and if your inclined to do it, fine. BUT do part of tune up by hand, and then check plug torque, so far I feel my experience has given me decent feel for doing plugs. But experience and skills tend to be spotty sometimes. Just my opinion and observation.
When i use anti seize i will swipe the brush against the rim off the can to remove as much as possible. Then apply as light of a coat as possible. It does not need much at all. Same with dielectric grease on the insulator
@15:59 damaging the tip of precious metal plugs...Pete,according to Mohs hardness scale, both platinum and iridium are much, much harder than copper, so damage shouldn't even be an issue. If you're breaking these tips you're doing it wrong.
@@MotorAgeMagazine difference comes with the thickness of platinum and iridium applied, cos it's absurdly thin usually. So hard forces can crack sections of the plating, either off entirely or just loose from the inner part of the electrode which would give you heaps of random issues
I know we should never remove plugs on a hot engine but always wanted to know about doing compression tests on a warm engine . Especially with nearly all heads being aluminum now . What is a safe bet to still have engine warm enough to do compression tests, running compression included with out hurting threads ? Thank you and I love all your training videos .
I've always gone by the rule of thumb that if it's too hot to touch, it's too hot to work on. So if you can hold your hand on the head without burning yourself, I think you'll be fine.
I removed ac delco iridium spark plugs after 125000 mikes. There was a lot of rust on the threads. Would you recommend a little anti seize on the threads for new spark plugs.
No, not on these plugs. Adding anti-seize will affect torque and may lead to either a loose plug that can't dissipate heat or one too tight that could damage the plug.
Hi, once I started engine after changing spark plugs for my Hyundai 2004 XG 350, there is loud noise coming from engine , we thought something fell in the engine and cleaned , but not sure whats going on, did u face this issue ever? if yes what could be the solution?
Could some one please tell me ASAP if Motorcraft SP-580 iridium plugs need anti-seize on them. I can’t find the answer to this question anywhere so far...thanks
Glad to know I have been doing them right. I am glad that you mentioned a torque wrench. I see to many mechanics that do not use them. I see that you use grease on your boots. I have always used spray silicone any thoughts on that?
monzsterman Just to clarify, I use dielectric grease. Dielectric grease is non-conductive. Silicone spray, I'm thinking, is conductive (1) and will probably burn off with engine heat rather quickly (2).
On my 96 Chevy C1500, the Haynes manual says to put a small dab of silicone lubricant to each terminal of the distributor cap before reinstalling the cap. This doesn't make sense since silicone would be an insulator, right?
You don't want to put anything directly on the contacts inside the cap. Putting a dab of dielectric grease on the end of each plug wire can help seal out moisture and make it easier to remove the wires later.
Yes, you can test the internal resistance of a plug with your multimeter - but why? Use a scope to look at the secondary pattern and you will see so much more!
If you run a tap through you'll need to lube the tap, then you have to clean the lube off the threads. If not, the lube will affect torque and alignment just like the anti-seize would have. Dielectric grease is awesome. You really want a liberal application to coat the spark plug center connector. The point is to isolate the electrical conductors from oxygen in air thus preventing oxidation. Even more beneficial is to increase the dielectric strength of the boot to prevent arcing to the well. A side benefit is keeping water out of the boot. Don't worry, the electrical connection will not be affected by the grease as it is designed to be pushed clear by the connectors spring type clamping effect. I heard you say you use only a dab so you'll be missing most of the intended benefits. I like the wheel gauge. I did use my calipers to ensure accuracy of the wheel. Mine wasn't a giveaway, it's a "good" one, humor intended. I got it when they first came out so I spent a few minutes going around the wheel measuring. I agree that the giveaways shouldn't be trusted unless confirmed. They are ever so handy and quick. Don't twist on it or force it through to widen the gap; I'm surprised I had to say that. I love your videos, thanks for doing them.
Nice to see a professional tell everyone not to use anti seize ‘unless’ the manufacturer says so. NGK says no, don’t use anti seize on their plugs, even saw an engineer from NGK say so. Using a torque wrench is great sound advice too. But…these seasoned, don’t tell me how to install plugs know-it-all will go to their grave insisting they know better than the company making the damn plugs are either too proud or too stupid to learn and do better. Separates the shade trees from the true professionals.
The plugs on my deal were that tight i broke about 3 of them not to mention the tight boots aswell. Must not hav been serviced regulier basis. It turned a 45 min job into a day job. Must had been installed with an impact. I always torque on install now...
Ford 3 valves are prone to break plugs fact but put a 3/8th impact electric or pneumatic and that impact knocks the carbon off and they come right out. Have broken only a few since starting to impact them ...... So never impact I dissagree and times are changing what will direct inject hold for our future what will we learn in time like how to not break plugs on 3 valves
See more detailed info in this lengthy article at: bmwmotorcycletech.info/sparkplugs.htm concerning whether an anti-seize compound should be used on spark plugs.
You dont need a torque wrench but it is more accurate, you can turn plug 1/2 to 3/4 trurn as soon as it stops turning when you screw it in by hand and know its all the way in unless the thread is dirty and it is hard to screw in
Last Triton I drew the shortest straw on led me to technical data requiring titanium anti- seize. This isn't intended to be a, "...you can take my anti-seize when you pry it from my cold, dead hands" argument. I believe we can agree this is a special consideration. Just adding to conversation.
Seems to me ... greasing the boot opening before fitting it over the spark plug could inadvertently transfer the dielectric grease to the plug terminal. I mean, there's not much clearance. Seems inevitable you're going to bump the plug terminal with the greasy boot before sliding it on all the way. Or are we just not supposed to care about a tiny dab of dielectric on the terminal?
Always start plugs by turning in the wrong direction until you feel it click and the plug drop into the thread, then start gently turning clockwise. This aligns the threads and prevents cross threading. You can go backward several times to be sure you're at the start of the thread before starting the plug in. 🔩
Or you can start by hand and feel if you are on the thread or not.
@@alextalos6141 That is starting by hand. It works. Try it.
I use this method when screwing a lot of things in. I have cross threaded something by hand and it felt normal, my only reference that something was wrong was half way down it jammed.
Very helpful but had to go learn how to use torque wrench.
just put 1/4" fuel hose on the plug and turn it by hand until it stops spinning. You'll never screw up threads like this.
Great advice, for those in a hurry go to the 14:00 minute area for a good review of the correct procedures in replacing spark plugs.
Subscribed. Outstanding video. I know for a fact a dialectic past and torque wrench is not used where I go. I will do it myself from now on.
Welcome to the channel!
I use a slight coating of dielectric grease on the porcelain part of the plug and a small dose at the very beginning of the boot opening but not deep enough to get on any of the electrical connectors.
Keep in mind things in life are very forgiving, sure the plugs will go in without being torqued, and the wires will still conduct even if you dump dielectric grease on the conductors instead of the rubber boots. If you didnt get it right, relax, just dont expect 100k from your iridium plugs or 50k from your platinums. When in doubt, change em out - doing it perfectly every time comes with experience, and experience comes from doing it wrong and soaking in that feeling of stupidity and dread when it breaks. No school can teach you better than direct experience combined with attention and care.
NEVER put dielectric directly an any electrical surface connection as it is non conductive. You run the chance of causing complications with the electronics. One maker of fuel controllers states it will void the warranty if done as it is one of the main issues of failures.
@@340rps Failures? stop lying. 30 years putting dielectric grease in all connections, and nothing happened to any of my cars. Liar.
With the dielectric grease, would it be good enough to just put a thin coat on the white ceramic part of the spark plug itself and not any on the boot? Then when the boot fits over it, the boot should end up with a thin coating and their will be no dielectric on the terminal/ post?
Sure, that would work. I've never had an issue, though, by adding a small amount at the boot. Be sure, too, to make sure the porcelain is clean and so is your plug socket to avoid getting contaminants on the porcelain.
Cooper anti-seize is conductive. I have some gray anti-seize which I am unsure of whats in it (label is a bit obscured) but the label says it is conductive (I can see that part). I've been changing plugs in my cars since age 14, I'm 63 now. I have observed the incredible hassle of a seized plug and knowing that anti-seize, recommended or not, will do no harm as long as you use small amount, I will always use anti-seize on plugs. Not saying you are wrong, that's just my default position. I've worked in aerospace all my life and two immutable rules are: Unless specifically prohibited or thread locker is required, no fastener installed w/o anti-seize and no O-ring in stalled dry, ever.
Regarding X-Man, I am wondering if having that much experience is actually a bad thing: Example: you are basing your current practice on what you learned 30-40 years ago, which was based on spark plug technology of 30-40 years ago. Current plug design is much different, and all manufactorers do NOT recommend anti-seize paste due to the special coating on the threads. Wisdom is great, but it is better if updated on a continual basis.
42 years experience in the aerospace industry. I've seen many anti-corrosion coatings fail, especially at mating surfaces of dissimilar metals. Anti-corrosion coatings on threads are particularly vulnerable were the coating on threads meets a dissimilar metal. Phosphate and nickel coating work well when they remain intact but the act off screwing plugs into cast iron or aluminum heads scuffs this coating. Aluminum is pron to galling and cast iron is very hard and brittle. If you have ever seen thread cut into cast iron under high magnification you'd note right away it is very jagged and will literally grind away coatings on mating or faying surfaces. Great advances have been made but the phenomena of Galvanic corrosion still exists. Maybe you don't need anti-seize on spark plugs now. But it is NOT harmful if used appropriately. It's good insurance policy. It also makes it easier to install plugs with long thread base. Only need a wrench to break torque or final tightening. BTW- anti-seize is required all over many new weapon systems including the newest of the new, F-22 and F-35. They have state of the art anti-corrosion plating/coating regimen designed into them but anti-seize and other anti-corrosion inhibitors are widely used. I will continue to use it on just about everything that doesn't require a thread locker. Rust (iron oxide) and other forms or corrosion never sleeps. Never.
Just pulled my plugs today. I guess that special coating did not work as I had to work the plug in and out to assure not to get thread damage.
I have been using "anti seize*" on thread engagements for over 40 years under the most stringent quality control codes in the world. Using anti seize on spark plugs is child's play. Just DO NOT put any of the compound on the first 4 threads; because the first 3 threads are started threads and can allow some of the metallic particles in the anti seize to be pulled into the combustion zone and coat the surface of the part of the spark plug that is with in the combustion chamber and causing the electric current to short to the engine head and ground. BUT if used wisely it make life so much easier when removing any threaded engagement, especially anything that is in a location of high heat. I use it on ALL spark plugs even the ones they say doesn't need it, I'm not taking any chances on stripping threads in a head or other high dollar component. I suggest getting the highest temperature rated antisepsis compound you can get your hands on. It doesn't take a lot just a light coating and avoid getting any around the tip. If you do blast it off with "Brake Clean**" cleaner.
From NGK spark plug manufacture: "Torque recommendations are for spark plugs with new gaskets. If using anti-seize compound, use sparingly and reduce torque by 30%.
NGK has created their recommendations based on the general consensus of most engine manufactures. In the case of a discrepancy between the plug manufacturer and engine manufacturers recommendations, always default to the engine manufacturer."
* www.autozone.com/miscellaneous-cleaners-and-degreasers/lube/permatex-8-oz-226-8-g-anti-seize-lubricant/178722_0_0
** www.autozone.com/brake-and-power-steering-fluid-additives/brake-cleaner/autozone-non-chlorinated-brake-cleaner/8130_0_0
The coin thingy works good for increasing he gap, then i used the wire type he has in video to close gap. Feeler gauge to check gap. The hole in coin is great for enlarge the gap.
cant always use a torque wrench. no clearance. my torque wrench is my forearm and experience. great video,as always. thanks
You mean you don't use a 1/2" breaker bar and pull till it won't turn no more? ..... Seen people pull the threads out on a Victory oil plug. they either tighten it way to much , or worse turn it the wrong way when loosening as the plug sits on the bottom of the case and they get mixed up on which way to turn. Never will admit it, easier to blame the manufacture.
Torque is required on all new direct injected engines. There is alot of information about Volkswagens if not torqued can lead to burnt exhaust valves. The reason being is because when you torque the plug you actually are indexing the plug to a specific location. When this is not done you can burn the valve because where the flame front starts and stops. There is no current O.E. that suggest anti sieze. This can cause problems with the plug not getting the proper ground. Most problems that arise when plugs are not torqued. Under torque cause bad heat dissipation. Which can allow carbon to build up in threads. Where over torque will cause threads to he distorted which will cause gaulding upon removal.
Where's the fender cover? Good video but would like to add one extra inspection point. You mentioned cracks on the porcelain but also be aware or carbon tracking. It looks like a crack but is often overlooked because you can't feel it. Carbon tracking can and will cause intermittent misfire.
Hey thanks for sharing your knowledge on changing spark plugs! Good stuff.
No boots left behind. I love this video. Thank you.
Thanks for taking the time to comment! Hope you'll enjoy other videos in our Trainer series!
use anti-seize ALWAYS. If you ever had a stuck or broken plug in your head- you'll worship anti-seize. Just put a little on one side of the threads. As you install the plug- the rest of the thread will coat. Torque to about 90% of spec unless the manufacturer specified a 'lubed' torque spec. I torque my plugs to 26Nm with anti-seize. The really important point which was at the beginning of the video - after removing the boot / coil pack- blow out the port with compressed air BEFORE you remove the plug. You'd be amazed at the debris that can surround those plugs, especially if there is just a plug wire attached. You don't want anything like that falling into the chamber. Good luck everybody.
Yes, definitely a superb idea
Nice job, and yes I learned a little too! Thanks, Clear and not hurried!
Well looks like I did it wrong. Just installed 8 plugs and coils in my 2004 Thunderbird and used the disc gap tool to gap the plugs. Was concerned about over-torquing so now wondering if I didn't tighten the plugs enough. Car seems to be running fine, and I sure don't relish the idea of taking them out. Thanks for the info, will know better next time.
Nothing wrong with the tool if you use it carefully.
Thanks for the video, Pete. Looks like I gotta pull my plugs and clean the crap (anti-seize) off. The factory service manual does not say anything about putting the stuff on, so I guess I should have not put it on. So, I guess I better pull em and clean them and the seats up.
The most important thing to clean tightening seat of plug and head tightening seat aswell.
I own a gm s.c.3800 & the plugs were that tight it took me ages along with a few broken plugs to remove them. I always torque them in..
Excellent! Took me back to the '60s when that's what I did. Thank you for your attention to detail.
Regarding the use of anti seize, I have been informed that when using anti seize on spark plugs one should use the copper type rather than the nickel.
Additionally, on torque values for spark plugs, they are generally given for dry plugs. If one uses the dry torque value with anti seize the spark plugs are going to be over tightened and then one will run the risk of stripping the threads on aluminum cylinder heads.
johnwrench4speed The vast majority of plugs made today are made with a different material in the shell and the use of any anti-seize product is not recommended. Makers that do (auto and/or plug) are few and far between so my best suggestion is stay clear of it entirely.
Actually after chatting with multiple plug reps they do NOT recommend copper based antisieze, two reasons, it's actually more suited to exhaust manifold bolts and other high heat. Now silver antiseize us nickel based and suitable for ignition use. Also for the record as I was informed the plugs that have silver cast are nickel plated, and antiseize will NOT affect continuity high voltage ignitions. After destroying a $4800 head by not using it I still brush it on all plugs. In 30 years I have had to repair or replace heads from non use and have never had runability issue using it. IF manufacturer puts placard under hood fine but then the fools screwing Autolites into every car and then I have to redo tune ups. Chased hundreds of "will fit" parts induced drivability issues. I have had best luck sticking with or type plugs and specific ignition parts. Like Nissan's HATE aftermarket COPs. Never found aftermarket that don't throw codes. And even the ones that claim they make OE parts cause issues. Oh and I have worked on, built, tuned and diagnosed everything from Briggs and Stratton to nitro hemi funny car engines. 30 yrs have shown what works and what doesn't and I want this guy to tell me how to torque plugs than I can barely get my hand and stubby wrench into. Not saying there isn't torque and if your inclined to do it, fine. BUT do part of tune up by hand, and then check plug torque, so far I feel my experience has given me decent feel for doing plugs. But experience and skills tend to be spotty sometimes. Just my opinion and observation.
Good info Thanks
When i use anti seize i will swipe the brush against the rim off the can to remove as much as possible. Then apply as light of a coat as possible. It does not need much at all. Same with dielectric grease on the insulator
nice, fuel line idea is brilliant !
Glad you like it!
@15:59 damaging the tip of precious metal plugs...Pete,according to Mohs hardness scale, both platinum and iridium are much, much harder than copper, so damage shouldn't even be an issue. If you're breaking these tips you're doing it wrong.
Thanks for bringing that to my attention!
@@MotorAgeMagazine difference comes with the thickness of platinum and iridium applied, cos it's absurdly thin usually. So hard forces can crack sections of the plating, either off entirely or just loose from the inner part of the electrode which would give you heaps of random issues
Hardness is no indication of whether something will crack or chip. In fact, with many materials the harder they are, the more brittle.
I know we should never remove plugs on a hot engine but always wanted to know about doing compression tests on a warm engine . Especially with nearly all heads being aluminum now . What is a safe bet to still have engine warm enough to do compression tests, running compression included with out hurting threads ? Thank you and I love all your training videos .
I've always gone by the rule of thumb that if it's too hot to touch, it's too hot to work on. So if you can hold your hand on the head without burning yourself, I think you'll be fine.
if you have a stuck plug sometimes it will come out easier after it is warmed to running specks
the removing is not as critticle as in stalling, do not install on a warm engine
I removed ac delco iridium spark plugs after 125000 mikes. There was a lot of rust on the threads. Would you recommend a little anti seize on the threads for new spark plugs.
No, not on these plugs. Adding anti-seize will affect torque and may lead to either a loose plug that can't dissipate heat or one too tight that could damage the plug.
125,000---thats 60,000 to us
125,000 that is 60,000 too far my understanding in a aluminum head,,,,!! Iridium or not!
Using anti-seize when not necessary, can also cause incorrect torque values (sometimes over-torque and sometimes under torque).
So does installing on a dry thread which the plug dragged when removed. ... more so
Hi, once I started engine after changing spark plugs for my Hyundai 2004 XG 350, there is loud noise coming from engine , we thought something fell in the engine and cleaned , but not sure whats going on, did u face this issue ever? if yes what could be the solution?
It's a Hyundai piece of JUNK
I have never seen an oem spark plug spanner that you can fit a torque spanner to....
Could some one please tell me ASAP if Motorcraft SP-580 iridium plugs need anti-seize on them. I can’t find the answer to this question anywhere so far...thanks
If the OEM doesn't specify its use, don't use it. If you're not sure, don't use it. DO use a torque wrench to properly tighten it.
👍 great info. Thanks again!
Glad to know I have been doing them right. I am glad that you mentioned a torque wrench. I see to many mechanics that do not use them. I see that you use grease on your boots. I have always used spray silicone any thoughts on that?
monzsterman Just to clarify, I use dielectric grease. Dielectric grease is non-conductive. Silicone spray, I'm thinking, is conductive (1) and will probably burn off with engine heat rather quickly (2).
Motor Age Never thought about that. Your never to old to learn. Thanks.
Spray silicone is NOT dielectric and it's in a solvent carrier that can attack boots and even make them stick.
Chase treads not tap..can damage..if come out smooth and clean dont touch treads.
Need to buy magnetic sockets..and torque them
Very insightful!
On my 96 Chevy C1500, the Haynes manual says to put a small dab of silicone lubricant to each terminal of the distributor cap before reinstalling the cap. This doesn't make sense since silicone would be an insulator, right?
You don't want to put anything directly on the contacts inside the cap. Putting a dab of dielectric grease on the end of each plug wire can help seal out moisture and make it easier to remove the wires later.
Thanks for the tips!! 👍🇺🇲
I had a medium read my spark plugs.
Does testing the spark plugs with multimeter work?
Yes, you can test the internal resistance of a plug with your multimeter - but why? Use a scope to look at the secondary pattern and you will see so much more!
If you run a tap through you'll need to lube the tap, then you have to clean the lube off the threads. If not, the lube will affect torque and alignment just like the anti-seize would have.
Dielectric grease is awesome. You really want a liberal application to coat the spark plug center connector. The point is to isolate the electrical conductors from oxygen in air thus preventing oxidation. Even more beneficial is to increase the dielectric strength of the boot to prevent arcing to the well. A side benefit is keeping water out of the boot. Don't worry, the electrical connection will not be affected by the grease as it is designed to be pushed clear by the connectors spring type clamping effect. I heard you say you use only a dab so you'll be missing most of the intended benefits.
I like the wheel gauge. I did use my calipers to ensure accuracy of the wheel. Mine wasn't a giveaway, it's a "good" one, humor intended. I got it when they first came out so I spent a few minutes going around the wheel measuring. I agree that the giveaways shouldn't be trusted unless confirmed. They are ever so handy and quick. Don't twist on it or force it through to widen the gap; I'm surprised I had to say that.
I love your videos, thanks for doing them.
Do not gap irdiums..only old school conventional plugs..
2005 ford Ranger 2.3 is 12fp of torque good enough?
Stephen, if you don't have the OEM spec handy, try this: www.briskusa.com/how_change_spark_plugs_torque_spec_chart
Nice to see a professional tell everyone not to use anti seize ‘unless’ the manufacturer says so. NGK says no, don’t use anti seize on their plugs, even saw an engineer from NGK say so. Using a torque wrench is great sound advice too. But…these seasoned, don’t tell me how to install plugs know-it-all will go to their grave insisting they know better than the company making the damn plugs are either too proud or too stupid to learn and do better. Separates the shade trees from the true professionals.
Have you ever have a plug break
Short answer - yes. :-)
The plugs on my deal were that tight i broke about 3 of them not to mention the tight boots aswell. Must not hav been serviced regulier basis. It turned a 45 min job into a day job. Must had been installed with an impact. I always torque on install now...
Never ever use a power tool to remove a spark plug...except a ford 3v.
You'd be surprised at how many techs I've seen personally use an air ratchet to pull AND install plugs!
Ford 3 valves are prone to break plugs fact but put a 3/8th impact electric or pneumatic and that impact knocks the carbon off and they come right out. Have broken only a few since starting to impact them ...... So never impact I dissagree and times are changing what will direct inject hold for our future what will we learn in time like how to not break plugs on 3 valves
What's the torch on the plug
Do you mean "torque"? Check your service manual for the specification for you particular engine.
See more detailed info in this lengthy article at: bmwmotorcycletech.info/sparkplugs.htm concerning whether an anti-seize compound should be used on spark plugs.
Always torque anything going into engine
no need to run a tap, unless there's a problem, otherwise your could cause a problem
Thanks Master.
You dont need a torque wrench but it is more accurate, you can turn plug 1/2 to 3/4 trurn as soon as it stops turning when you screw it in by hand and know its all the way in unless the thread is dirty and it is hard to screw in
Sorry, I disagree - just the difference between a plug with a gasket and one without should make using a torque wrench necessary.
Your procedure may work for an oil filter, not so much for a spark plug. Use a GOOD QUALITY torque wrench.
Great tips!!
Facts pete. Speak facts
ny shade tree does not have air supply
my 2013 crv vibrates when not yet warmed up, especially when the a/c is on, and at around 40kph. any idea of solution?
Not much information to go on - How many miles? Have you checked the condition of the engine mounts?
@@MotorAgeMagazine 65,000 kms. I checked the engine mounts and they are ok. Thank you.
@@ArChi285 Have you performed a scan of the vehicle for DTCs? If so, any listed?
@@MotorAgeMagazine not yet. I will try that if nothing works. Thanks anyway
OK pete, now do a triton 3 valve...lol
Tony McCarthy LOL!
Last Triton I drew the shortest straw on led me to technical data requiring titanium anti- seize. This isn't intended to be a, "...you can take my anti-seize when you pry it from my cold, dead hands" argument. I believe we can agree this is a special consideration. Just adding to conversation.
this was way quicker using my impact wrench
This video has no sound
There's sound...check your speaker settings and make sure you're not listening in mono mode.
You're correct. Left side is out except when they fast forward And play the funky music.
U put the grease where on the plug boot ?
I put a small dab on the boot opening and then slide the boot over the plug.
Seems to me ... greasing the boot opening before fitting it over the spark plug could inadvertently transfer the dielectric grease to the plug terminal. I mean, there's not much clearance. Seems inevitable you're going to bump the plug terminal with the greasy boot before sliding it on all the way. Or are we just not supposed to care about a tiny dab of dielectric on the terminal?
A fella may use an impact when removing for 5.4 plugs lol..but the rest no
Poor audio. Ty.
👍 👍
You forgot to mention to check the thread length and ground electrode length so that it will not hit the piston
Speak up I can't hear you !!!
Some of our early videos were recorded in mono. Check your speaker settings and adjust for the left channel.
@@MotorAgeMagazine ok