Wow, prices are extremely high in your area. A few months ago, I took a set of heads (GM 3.1 v6) to my local machine shop to have them resurfaced. It cost me $35.00 per head. Harrington's Machine Shop.
Although i havent seen them in a kit, i toss the standard fel pro head gaskets and opt for their severe duty. They're thicker and made for machined heads and/or blocks. They seal even minor imperfections.
Another thing the valve seals are very easy & cheap to replace while the heads are off..many headgaskets are replaced cause of misfiring & oil burning which was the valve seal all along..just look oil leaky out under the exhaust manifolds or inside the exhaust port for oil
Funny after doing this on many GM headgaskets. You can spend the money to resurface but it's a waste for the simple fact that aluminum heads will warp a little on a the work bench by morning.. temperature variously will make it expand & contract.. always torque the bolts like it's warped ..meaning if you tighten the 4 center bolts 45lbs plus the 95 degrees before doing the ends which should be only finger tight..you need the head to flatten out so you don't need the outside restricting the process..some other motors need this process with overhead cams that can't be resurfaced instead its pulled flat then heated to straighten ..in other words the head is going to mate against the block no matter how straight the head is..make sure the block surface is smooth you'll be ok
Ik this is old. I totally agree but I think it can handle more than we think. I've gotten shit HOT and it not warp. Take a blow torch to steel or cast iron. Then take it too an aluminum wheel. Tell me which one warps faster. Just my opinion tho. Not saying it won't warp. But I think it's hot cold hot cold over and over Is what does it.
I guess it's better to be over cautious and cleaning but that wasn't completely necessary all the cleaning. It's a engine that's going to be dirty. Just make sure you don't have any big particles on the mating surface
And you would have been better off with denzo or ACDelco or NGK spark plugs. And I would have probably have used platinum at least so I didn't have to change them again when those copper auto lots burn out in 10,000, mi
My friend your videos are awesome questions for this one should I drain the engine oil? I just put it on like 200 kms before the head gasket starts to act. But the oil looks pretty clean
Stupid me used a heavy duty scotch Brite pad on the block and some of the bits of metal strands fell into the coolant passages. Is this going to clog the ports or radiator? I did drain the block and used a magnetic pick up tool to remove what I could (it was floating on the surface of the coolant)
Hey amigo I just started this proyect and to take the oil pan out is a pain in the head.😮 Now a need to lift the engine but do i need to take the right Axle out too? 😢
I'm finishing up a rebuild of the 3.4 in my '02 Montana. Your videos have been incredibly helpful. Thank you.
Did it go good any tips I’m about do the same
@@rumblertag1419 Haven't started it yet. Waiting on a new AC compressor. I'll let you know in a week. Wish me luck.
My guy tell me why your a hero....one day I'll buy you a beer...thanks a lot my friend
Wow, prices are extremely high in your area. A few months ago, I took a set of heads (GM 3.1 v6) to my local machine shop to have them resurfaced. It cost me $35.00 per head.
Harrington's Machine Shop.
Although i havent seen them in a kit, i toss the standard fel pro head gaskets and opt for their severe duty. They're thicker and made for machined heads and/or blocks. They seal even minor imperfections.
Спасибо, парни большое.
Thank you very much guys.
Another thing the valve seals are very easy & cheap to replace while the heads are off..many headgaskets are replaced cause of misfiring & oil burning which was the valve seal all along..just look oil leaky out under the exhaust manifolds or inside the exhaust port for oil
Funny after doing this on many GM headgaskets. You can spend the money to resurface but it's a waste for the simple fact that aluminum heads will warp a little on a the work bench by morning.. temperature variously will make it expand & contract.. always torque the bolts like it's warped ..meaning if you tighten the 4 center bolts 45lbs plus the 95 degrees before doing the ends which should be only finger tight..you need the head to flatten out so you don't need the outside restricting the process..some other motors need this process with overhead cams that can't be resurfaced instead its pulled flat then heated to straighten ..in other words the head is going to mate against the block no matter how straight the head is..make sure the block surface is smooth you'll be ok
Bro mines is leaking after 1k miles I got the resurfaced I'm very pist off any Ideas? I didn't torque ur way I did it the original way
Ik this is old. I totally agree but I think it can handle more than we think. I've gotten shit HOT and it not warp. Take a blow torch to steel or cast iron. Then take it too an aluminum wheel. Tell me which one warps faster. Just my opinion tho. Not saying it won't warp. But I think it's hot cold hot cold over and over Is what does it.
I guess it's better to be over cautious and cleaning but that wasn't completely necessary all the cleaning. It's a engine that's going to be dirty. Just make sure you don't have any big particles on the mating surface
And you would have been better off with denzo or ACDelco or NGK spark plugs. And I would have probably have used platinum at least so I didn't have to change them again when those copper auto lots burn out in 10,000, mi
Very goog !! Congratulations good video . i have a chevy venture single and have's same problem.
Thanks and good luck with your project
Where did you find torq specs and torq sequence? I need that for the 3.5L V6 in a 2006 Pontaic G6
Thank you
What is a good compression (psi) for the 3.4L engine?
Una pregunta cómo BA la orden de encendido venture 3.4
My friend your videos are awesome questions for this one should I drain the engine oil? I just put it on like 200 kms before the head gasket starts to act. But the oil looks pretty clean
Change it, most likely some antifreeze got it
thanks apreciate your comment@@ProblemSolverGarage
U never did a video on the upper intake what is the bolt sequence and torque specs
Yeah there’s a video on it check my playlist on the venture
Actually wait there is no playlist I will make a playlist in the next few days go in my videos there is a video on it
Stupid me used a heavy duty scotch Brite pad on the block and some of the bits of metal strands fell into the coolant passages. Is this going to clog the ports or radiator? I did drain the block and used a magnetic pick up tool to remove what I could (it was floating on the surface of the coolant)
I think you’ll be OK
Dowell pin comes out fyi
Somebody can help me to fix my Montana 2005 3.4 same engine. I dont know how to change the oil pump, lifters and timingbelt
I can pay online to however can be my mechanic helper online
Sorry, I can’t help you, but we probably live thousands of kilometres from each other
Hey amigo I just started this proyect and to take the oil pan out is a pain in the head.😮 Now a need to lift the engine but do i need to take the right Axle out too? 😢
How long did it take you to work on your Nissan Pulsar?
Hey, one Sumer
@@ProblemSolverGarage I am more than exited to start, I’ll will show you when I am done.
Sounds great, I love that car I’ve had it for 22 years, best most reliable car ever
Good luck with your project