Excellent paint job and a great model! Thanks for talking about the "negative" aspects of the hobby as well. Sometimes I get stuck or frustrated and its nice to know I'm not alone in this.
Doctor Faust you have taught me so much about painting over the last ten years. Thank you so much! I am happy to share my Successful TMNT experiments: • Start with Vallejo Model Air Steel, Silver, Aluminum, Chrome over black primer as per usual, don't mix with them with any colors. Let them dry. Bottle to model is my process with Air metallics. Which color you start with will determine the final brightness of the metallics at the end. • Once the metallics dry completely, paint over the metal bits with either Citadel Contrast paints, or Army Painter Speedpaints as per your preference. You can thin them if you want, I don't. I think that's a preference for color intensity. I've used both brands and they both work great! • In Citadel Contrast for golds I use various mixes of Imperial Fists yellow, Iyanden Yellow, and Skeleton Horde. • In Speedpaints for golds I use various mixes of Zealot Yellow, and Pallid Bone. One great aspect about this technique is that because of the glossiness of the metallics, and the inherent transparency of the Contrast/Speedpaints it allows the metal to shine through the colors, and it's dead simple to do. You can also use any other of the Contrast/Speedpaints to make your own custom metal color. With Contrasts: Gore-Grunta Fur mixed with Gryph-Orange makes a pretty excellent Copper. Snakebite Leather is awesome for Bronze. Straight up Skeleton Horde is a pretty convincing Brass. I've used Aethermatic Blue plus Talassar Blue for a pretty excellent WH40k Alpha Legion color scheme. Talassar Blue makes a pretty excellent Smurf Marine by itself. And for any mighty Khorne followers Baal Red or Blood Angels Red works amazing. I hope this helps, love your work!
I really appreciate each and every one of your videos. I was so close to giving up on trying to learn to paint miniatures and then I found you! I feel like you teach in a way that is easier for me to comprehend and make it all feel less daunting! I really love that you have a range of skin tones featured in your videos, In the future id like my art to feature more African skin tones and would love any and all advice and instruction! Thanks for what you do, it’s greatly appreciated! 🎨❤️🎨
Excellent paint job and a great model! Thanks for talking about the "negative" aspects of the hobby as well. Sometimes I get stuck or frustrated and its nice to know I'm not alone in this.
Doctor Faust you have taught me so much about painting over the last ten years. Thank you so much! I am happy to share my Successful TMNT experiments:
• Start with Vallejo Model Air Steel, Silver, Aluminum, Chrome over black primer as per usual, don't mix with them with any colors. Let them dry. Bottle to model is my process with Air metallics. Which color you start with will determine the final brightness of the metallics at the end.
• Once the metallics dry completely, paint over the metal bits with either Citadel Contrast paints, or Army Painter Speedpaints as per your preference. You can thin them if you want, I don't. I think that's a preference for color intensity. I've used both brands and they both work great!
• In Citadel Contrast for golds I use various mixes of Imperial Fists yellow, Iyanden Yellow, and Skeleton Horde.
• In Speedpaints for golds I use various mixes of Zealot Yellow, and Pallid Bone.
One great aspect about this technique is that because of the glossiness of the metallics, and the inherent transparency of the Contrast/Speedpaints it allows the metal to shine through the colors, and it's dead simple to do.
You can also use any other of the Contrast/Speedpaints to make your own custom metal color. With Contrasts: Gore-Grunta Fur mixed with Gryph-Orange makes a pretty excellent Copper. Snakebite Leather is awesome for Bronze. Straight up Skeleton Horde is a pretty convincing Brass. I've used Aethermatic Blue plus Talassar Blue for a pretty excellent WH40k Alpha Legion color scheme. Talassar Blue makes a pretty excellent Smurf Marine by itself. And for any mighty Khorne followers Baal Red or Blood Angels Red works amazing.
I hope this helps, love your work!
I really appreciate each and every one of your videos. I was so close to giving up on trying to learn to paint miniatures and then I found you! I feel like you teach in a way that is easier for me to comprehend and make it all feel less daunting! I really love that you have a range of skin tones featured in your videos, In the future id like my art to feature more African skin tones and would love any and all advice and instruction! Thanks for what you do, it’s greatly appreciated! 🎨❤️🎨
Great vid Doc. I love hearing the "why this colour" - whether it works out or not.
Cool as always. 👍
I would really like to see a video of object source lighting! I love watching and learning from you!
Always stoked to see your work, even if it's a challenge.
Thanks for the video!
i like miximg 50/50 VMA Gold and Copper, brings in the warmth that their greenish gold lacks on its own
You could try Vincy V's gold mix recipe. VMC old and gold pigment powder from green stuff world
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
can you put a link to the miniature? can't find it
It's part of a set on mymini factory. I'm not able to provide the link, but you can search for DnD Tribute Set by STL Miniatures
What movie is the end quote from?
Not getting caught up on sources even applies to a miniature's own art too!
Failure is a part of learning. Nobody gets it right the first time.
This is a lesson I'm still learning. That, and you're not going to ruin the model by painting it and you can always fix or or just start over.
Gee if the Doctor sucks at painting miniatures I don't even know how to qualify my efforts or lack there of.
How about using an airbrush as another tool and using inks as well .
Keep moving forward or as I say with my painting it gets better