Much respect for posting this video. There are simple math calculations on the wheel nut torque that one can use when there is no torque wrench available, i.e., one's weight with a breaker-bar. . It's explained with a simple Google Search.
Been looking at air compressors and impact drivers to do this job. What size compressor or psi do you use? Is there a certain psi that you need or is it based on the size/strength of the impact driver? Thanks in advance.
Glad to see you’re doing another video you sure help me with your top I did my 2000 Boxster top might’ve been a different brand top but other than putting those little plastic wing things in a haven’t figured that out yet but that was a big help thank you
Thanks for the video, I am just about to start this procedure on my 2000 Boxster and needed to see how the struts are moved out of the way. I have already done my rear bearings and I did not remove the carrier as I had the engine and transmission out and removed the half-shafts to change the boots and regrease the CV joints. It seems that the half-shafts can be removed without removing the carrier and with the transmission in place, although it may be necessary to remove the exhaust and the sway bar to have enough clearance. Not sure which way is the most efficient. I definitely suggest repacking the CV joints and boots while you are in there, boots and grease are cheap.
Thanks for the tip. I'm probably months away from doing the rear, but I'm definitely going to look into the route that you've described. Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching, I really appreciate it.
Well done. About to do this on my 987 Cayman and this is the closest I could find. I’ll be making a video on it so it should be interesting to see what differences there are
I've now replaced all 4 bearings and all the suspension parts and it's like driving a new car (I have to assume because I've never driven a new Porsche). Good Luck, and thanks for watching.
180,000 miles. It's a lot of miles, and I don't have any service history, but the engine and transmission work very well. I'm hoping if I take care of it I can get another 100,000 or more. Good luck with yours, and thanks for watching
Great video, thanks. I believe my 981 has the same setup and I'll follow your methods on it this week. Do you have any insight into the rear wheel bearings? Same process its just an axle instead of the stub axle I assume?
Because of the axel, you'll have to unbolt the control arms and carefully slide the wheel carriers off the axel. Then probably have to go get an alignment when you're done. I wish I'd known I had bad wheel bearings when I did the shocks. I would have done them all at the same time, and then got the alignment. Instead I did the shocks, then got an alignment. Then realized I had bad bearings. That's the reason I did it the way I did (so I wouldn't have to get another alignment). It probably would have been better for the new shocks if I had removed the wheel carrier. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project.
@@jasonsporschechannel945 thanks. I just finished up the fronts and it went well. As a bonus, on 981s, the strut is mounted high enough up that the stub axle part can come right out without messing with the strut. I did struggle a bit to get the hubs off with a 5lb slide hammer, but finally got them when I started using a strap on the weight to swing it with. That way I could really wind up on it and it didn't shock your hand. They each came off with four hits with that method. Thanks! Oh and one more tip. On newer cars, the bearing has a black side and a red side. The black side is magnetic and works with the wheel speed sensor. The black side has to go on the inside and the red side has to go out. Your bearing seems to be black on both sides so just wanted to point that out.
Would you need an alignment though if removing the carrier? I wouldn’t think so. The lower link and tie are adjusted inboard As long as you don’t move the strut top position it wouldn’t change ur camber toe caster
I'm almost positive that you have to loosen the inboard nut/bolt on the coffin shaped control arm for it to drop down low enough to slide off the bottom of the shock. If you can put back the nut/bolt very close to the original position, you might get away with not needing an alignment. If I ever have to do it again I'm going to save up and replace everything at once, and then get an alignment. Thanks so much for watching.
I tried that, but with the air pressure at 120 it only barely moved. I was worried that if I kept going it might break the tool and I wasn't sure if I would have to pay for it. But thanks, when I do the back ones I'll try the impact again.
Авто/Мото
Much respect for posting this video. There are simple math calculations on the wheel nut torque that one can use when there is no torque wrench available, i.e., one's weight with a breaker-bar. . It's explained with a simple Google Search.
Thanks for the tip, I appreciate it, and thanks for watching.
Great and informative video! Thanks!
Been looking at air compressors and impact drivers to do this job. What size compressor or psi do you use? Is there a certain psi that you need or is it based on the size/strength of the impact driver? Thanks in advance.
Glad to see you’re doing another video you sure help me with your top I did my 2000 Boxster top might’ve been a different brand top but other than putting those little plastic wing things in a haven’t figured that out yet but that was a big help thank you
You're welcome, and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video, I am just about to start this procedure on my 2000 Boxster and needed to see how the struts are moved out of the way. I have already done my rear bearings and I did not remove the carrier as I had the engine and transmission out and removed the half-shafts to change the boots and regrease the CV joints. It seems that the half-shafts can be removed without removing the carrier and with the transmission in place, although it may be necessary to remove the exhaust and the sway bar to have enough clearance. Not sure which way is the most efficient. I definitely suggest repacking the CV joints and boots while you are in there, boots and grease are cheap.
Thanks for the tip. I'm probably months away from doing the rear, but I'm definitely going to look into the route that you've described. Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching, I really appreciate it.
Well done. About to do this on my 987 Cayman and this is the closest I could find. I’ll be making a video on it so it should be interesting to see what differences there are
I've now replaced all 4 bearings and all the suspension parts and it's like driving a new car (I have to assume because I've never driven a new Porsche).
Good Luck, and thanks for watching.
Nice work. Thanks for making this video. I appreciated your final thoughts of advice as I am considering my 986S.
How many miles are on your car?
180,000 miles. It's a lot of miles, and I don't have any service history, but the engine and transmission work very well. I'm hoping if I take care of it I can get another 100,000 or more. Good luck with yours, and thanks for watching
Great video, thanks. I believe my 981 has the same setup and I'll follow your methods on it this week. Do you have any insight into the rear wheel bearings? Same process its just an axle instead of the stub axle I assume?
Because of the axel, you'll have to unbolt the control arms and carefully slide the wheel carriers off the axel. Then probably have to go get an alignment when you're done.
I wish I'd known I had bad wheel bearings when I did the shocks. I would have done them all at the same time, and then got the alignment. Instead I did the shocks, then got an alignment. Then realized I had bad bearings. That's the reason I did it the way I did (so I wouldn't have to get another alignment). It probably would have been better for the new shocks if I had removed the wheel carrier.
Thanks for watching and good luck with your project.
@@jasonsporschechannel945 thanks. I just finished up the fronts and it went well. As a bonus, on 981s, the strut is mounted high enough up that the stub axle part can come right out without messing with the strut. I did struggle a bit to get the hubs off with a 5lb slide hammer, but finally got them when I started using a strap on the weight to swing it with. That way I could really wind up on it and it didn't shock your hand. They each came off with four hits with that method. Thanks!
Oh and one more tip. On newer cars, the bearing has a black side and a red side. The black side is magnetic and works with the wheel speed sensor. The black side has to go on the inside and the red side has to go out. Your bearing seems to be black on both sides so just wanted to point that out.
Would you need an alignment though if removing the carrier? I wouldn’t think so. The lower link and tie are adjusted inboard
As long as you don’t move the strut top position it wouldn’t change ur camber toe caster
I'm almost positive that you have to loosen the inboard nut/bolt on the coffin shaped control arm for it to drop down low enough to slide off the bottom of the shock. If you can put back the nut/bolt very close to the original position, you might get away with not needing an alignment.
If I ever have to do it again I'm going to save up and replace everything at once, and then get an alignment.
Thanks so much for watching.
Alignment check is needed. This is cheaper than wrecking your tyres is.
Should have used the impact driver to remove/install the bearings. Much faster and much much easier to do.
I tried that, but with the air pressure at 120 it only barely moved. I was worried that if I kept going it might break the tool and I wasn't sure if I would have to pay for it. But thanks, when I do the back ones I'll try the impact again.