Gun Gripes
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- Опубликовано: 7 окт 2024
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In this episode, we discuss our pet peeve of guns being run right out of the box, dry, devoid of lubrication, and why you shouldn't do this. Lube your guns.
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Belray 6 in 1. It's sold mostly in motorcycle shops. It's really sold to the military by the barrel as CLP with a cage code and mil spec. Great product, stays wet and does not feel too greasy.
A friend of mine back in junior high his dad was a sergeant in the army and I noticed the guns in the gun rack were dripping with oil.
Gross
Yeah, I was in the Army though, and there’s a lot of sergeants that don’t know the first goddamn thing about weapons maintenance. Some of them even have ideas that are actively harmful, like scraping carbon off an M16 barrel crown. Obviously, dripping with oil is inappropriate for dusty or extreme cold conditions. He may have just been storing them like that too, and as any good soldier would, did pre firing checks and removed the excess oil.
@@reccecs4 just no.
Well, if you have guns put away, I can see that I do the same thing
Ya buddy!
Larry Vickers proved beyond a shadow of a doubt there’s no such thing as overlubercation
He demonstrates that a gun is able to retain the right amount of lube, by flinging off the excess within 10 shots.
If you've got a wood stocked weapon, and you store the gun overlubed, your stock will be dark and oil stained in no time flat.
@@SauerkrautIsGood And the wood could be compromised.
I also do not like the idea of shooting with so much oil in the barrel, although clearly nothing blows up. Old organic oil that turns to varnish after long storage will increase bullet friction a lot on the first short. That has been known to cause noticeable over pressure.
Thank you I was waiting for someone to mention the Larry video. A lot of not smart people here
@@SauerkrautIsGood oil damages wood? Never heard that before from anyone or anything.
They give some good tips about where to lube your firearm. When I clean my firearms I look for shiny spots. If metal slides against metal it will eventually polish itself. So, if you see a shiny spot on moving parts that is a good indication of a place that needs a dab of luberaplate or something similar smeared across it. Do NOT get any sort of grease in the barrel bore. Use only enough oil in the barrel to prevent rust. If lube gets in the barrel be sure to get it out before you shoot that firearm. You can ruin that barrel if you fire a bullet down that bore with oil or grease and it can also be dangerous. The bullet moves too fast for the oil or grease to get out of the way and it can and will deform the barrel when the bullet rides over the obstruction of the lubricant in the bore. Depending on the amount of obstruction I suppose it could rupture the barrel.
You don't get the best experience if you skip the foreplay. You get the best action when you lube the tube and grooves.
you'd better be talking about guns🤣
I feel ya bruh ✅️💯😌🤣🤣🤣💀💀💀
Chuck Norris doesn't have to lube his, they get wet when he gives them "the eye of the ranger"
I put a zirc fitting on my barrel and just fill the entire AR with grease until it comes out the barrel and the ejector port.
I got one on the barrel and another on the buffer tube
I tend to over lube on the range but not on my EDC. Learned to be cautious about over lubing while in the military serving in dusty environments in Central American and Middle East. Like Frog Lube the best.
We can them wet overseas, we also kept a spray bottle of CLP. Was never an issue.
10w-40 and mineral spirits is all I've used for the last 3 years and may need to buy some spirits soon but I always have plenty of oil on hand. Saves so much compared to brand name gun cleaners.
I was going to say, I have full synthetic motorcycle oil I don't need and I used it so far without problems.
I’ve been using Mobile 1 for 20 years. Works great for lubricant and corrosion resistance.
@@TheRunAndGun10 so the argument that guns really don't need oil gives your theory that whatever you use works fine.
It's like my cable tv doesn't need an antenna, but the one I made out of tin foil hasn't hurt the reception one bit 😂
You can also just use mineral oil, it's even cheaper than engine oil and won't break down into plastics or damage any wood furniture.
Mineral spirits cleans well but smells really strong.
Oil is cheap. I don’t know why ppl feel a need to run dry.
A little bottle of CLP is 4.99$
@@ernestm57 you can buy pints or gallons of it cheap.
It's not an engine. Every manual I've ever seen explicitly states not to over lubricate. A fine sheen will protect from corrosion. A tiny bit of grease on a cam pin will last a very long time.
If you get oil in your chamber, it can result in dangerous overpressure on extraction, the chamber should always be clean and dry unless the gun specifically calls for lubricated ammo (which is usually a sign of a poor design to begin with).
AT LEAST SPIT ON IT!!! 😂😂
@Bear Gillium You just answered your own objection lol. SOME lubrication is good on contacting parts.
I'm going to be point blank honest with people. If you have a well made firearm, it doesn't need all that oiling and in fact oiling too much will dirty your firearm significantly more. If you put any oil at all on your firearms, make sure it's a very light oiling. Firearms are made of metal that don't run continuously like engines, it doesn't need all that oiling.
I like to know how dirty or dry my guns can be before they start to malfunction, but now I'm starting to rethink that habit
While I did lube the firearm, I did a 500 rd. torture test on a new Ruger MkIV 22/45 to see if I could get it to fail and it just kept going. Granted, I was using CCI Mini-Mag 40 gr. jacketed ammo but the darn thing would not jam. I've never fired that many rounds in one session before in my 20+ years of shooting but it was fun. Took darn near an hour to shoot that much (mostly reloading the mags) but I know the pistol works if nothing else. 🙂
That's kind of like driving your car without changing or filling your oil until you start to see smoke 😅
I do the same and I go to the range and shoot my gun with my carry ammo to see what would happen if I used it in a self defense situation
@@jacobseraphin685 yep I'll get rid of my sweat soaked 6 month to a year carry ammo and shoot it from my carry pistol just like from a self defense scenario.
Never had a jam or dud round so far.
@@daric_ Always, someone has to state that "would you run your car without oil?" Hilariously ignorant. You can run a gun for years on a sheen of mineral oil.
Now I believe that running a gun dry is really useful for wearing out things quicker and giving me the excuse to buy more parts
Ah yes, the ol' "if you're going to replace you might as well upgrade" mentality.
I just happen to buy extra parts when i work on one of mine ! And the parts pile becomes a excuse to buy more parts to finish something i never really started in the first place 🤣
It's OK, your wife isn't watching. You can admit that ammo box full of "bad" bolts and parts is necessary if SHTF. Were with ya.
I have built 2 complete rifles and 2 uppers from my spair parts pile and i almost have enough for a 3rd upper
Lubriplate is used extensively by us mechanics too, especially in the rust belt. Great stuff!
My AK watching me oil my AR for the 3rd time this week. 👁️👄👁️
Standard 5-30w motor oil smokes most gun oils in lubrication properties, cold weather and high heat applications. Why the whole buzz about getting $30+ for a couple ounces of "gun oil".
Hi buddy. Was watching a lot of your videos some years ago. Searched your name and damn, you still going strong! Happy to know you still keeping busy doing videos. Best wishes and keep up the good work!
I slightly over oil my gun just a little bit. I sweat like crazy at my job sometimes and it can literally be like my gun sat in a salty puddle all day by the end of the day. It’s pretty rough on them lol
I sweat constantly from my hands so i always do the same
Mobil 1 synthetic or Hi-temp bearing grease -so far no issues Thanks Guys
I used butter on my glock once. It smelt like cookies and lead.
Just want to say thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences.
I was happy to hear you mention Rig grease and where to use it. Awesome stuff. Not just for guns, but fishing reels, and a lot more. A solvent will break it down for easy cleaning and re-application.
In our machine shop we used Lubriplate grease on die pins because it wouldn't wipe off the pins as they went in and out of the bushings and it lasted a long time! I use on my buffer tubes & springs all the time! Also on the takedown pins.
Finally a gun gripe I’m interested in!
To each his own of course. I use full synthetic (wide temperature range) oils and greases and my AR 10 functions perfectly. I run it WET. You can see the moisture at every pin (not dripping or running). The lubrication can also help keep fouling soft, for easier cleaning. If you're trying to run a "pretty" AR, you should probably be running something else. Great video guys.
The problem with synthetics is that they actually will break down into their component materials aka plastic after a year or so just from exposure to air. Not a big deal if you fully clean often I guess, but consider regular mineral oil will never degrade (it's already literally millions of years old).
I come for the great information... but, I stay for Chad's character voices. Too funny !
I found if you run steel cased ammo, a drop off oil on the first round of every magazine really helps the ammo run better
I’ve got an old Ak that tends to rip rims of the cases and shits on your range day. My old Jewish neighbor told me to put a drop of oil on the first round as you described . Hasn’t happened since .
My first AR was fairly budget, and had issues cycling budget ammo. After complete disassembly of the BCG and scrubbing out all the manufacturer's cosmoline, a few drops of Hoppe's CLP it ran like a scalded dog.
I use a mix of full synthetic grease, mobile 1 (red, in a small can) and full synthetic motor oil, mobile 1. I mix them in a small baby food container, and the goal is to mix it to the consistency of molasses/honey. Its thick enough to stay place, and thin enough to spread evenly on rails and raceways where you want it to be. It doesnt over foul in my ar15s and makes them super slick. It doesn't gum up in sub 0, and doesnt run off in the blazing heat. A really cool part is it doesnt pool durring storage. No more taking out your handgun to have half the gun soaking wet and the other as dry as the sahara. Or taking out rifles to have all the oil back in the buffer, or leaked out all over the stock.
Oh, and its cheap. Way way cheaper than any gun oil and more effective
Sotar
I use the same thing. The inside of my firearms are all glossy with this mixture, but the exterior stays nice and dry the way it should be. 🇺🇸
Gator lard is good but I prefer grease. Great show, my friends. Keep em well regulated!
I use gator lard for my Konmeladder and 1873 Springfield. Fantastic for softening bp fouling.
@@vonleiningen I believe it! Probably smells good too! I wish I had some myself.
Mechanical background says an aerosol grease for long term storage and a dry moly lube for regular usage.
Anything that uses oil or grease needs to be sealed from contamination to prevent the lubricant becoming liquid sandpaper.
He mentioned the castle nut loosening up if not steaked. I used a cheap (LOCKNUT WRENCH KIT- LNW-KIT 2. Made by (GB Gardner Bender) It comes with 2 lock nut wrenches 1/2 & 3/4). The 1/2" is marked LNW-500 & the 3/4 is marked LNW-750) It cost under $10. from a home improvement store, (rhymes with Knows) it is a tool meant to tighten the knock-outs on a electrical fuse box. Tightened my Ar's castle nut up perfectly & is cheaper then a castle nut wrench!
The only reason anyone would consider running a gun dry, same reasons to run your car with no oil in the engine.
Ya. Because an action slide and a piston ring at 10,000 rpm are just alike.
a note on oil ruining gun furniture. That's the reason I use frog lube. It doesn't stain nor does it harm plastic, plus it doesn't run.
I keep my gun wet and rifle dry lol
I have only run a gun dry in one specific situation and only a few dozen times. During supreme cold and dryness. I have run a few bolt guns (not worried about those), and one AR and few AK's dry, and it was in -20 to -40⁰ weather where air was dry and it was dark but not snowing. I had to. There was no oil at that time that would not congeal. I also didn't shoot the AR much. I also cleaned them bone dry first.
I no longer will do that. We now have some amazing oils for guns. Use a great oil, use sparingly where parts wear, have a film on gun the gun if it isn't corrosion resistant, clean often except don't over clean a bore (it should be fouled super lightly) and definately don't oil a bore or chamber unless you are storing it and tag it as "stored". Grease or moly grease on triggers.
As far as what oil or grease, there are several really good ones. I am not gonna market you. Sick of people who do that. I will say this though, if you absolutely can't find good oil there is one common setup I have used for decades that goes back to military use. BreakFree CLP is acceptable as an oil but by *_far_* not the best. I find it everywhere. Best oils are harder to get. You may have to order them or really look for em. Some work from say -60 to +450. And for triggers and also for barrel mounting (anti seize) use axle wheel bearing moly grease. The more moly in it the better. I believe there is a formula that had (not sure on exact values) 4.5% moly vs 2.5%. If you see it buy it as it will last a lifetime. It is lithium soap based grease besides the moly. Also a good lubricant in itself.
Always take small bottles of solvent, grease, oil and a small can of spray cleaner with you. TBH moly grease is by far the *_most_* important part. All the weapons depots used it and your TM will show that too. And never ever over lube. That just atracts dust and worse grit and is worse than not oiling believebit or not. Clean often but time wised not round based.
Always remove old oil. Outside a bottle some can oxidize at a faster rate compared to inside a bottle (saturation is term). New can of oil once in a while is a great idea. Lastly check your bore from the back before you go shooting if you cleaned and oiled before last shooting. Oil drips. If it gets in the bore or worse chamber it can cause presure strikes from oil burning due to the diesel effect. It may not blow a gun, but it will throw accuracy way off and accelerate wear and make a gun run even harder. Never get oil on wood or wood finishes, especially Tung oil or lacquer.
And be darn careful how you do stuff with those fine guns like AH Foxes, Krieghoffs and H&H guns. Those are too expensive and beautiful to go ruining. Treat those guns like a Ferarri engine. Run em hard, but baby them finish wise and keep em tuned. Same with rare collectible mil guns. Far too many guns get ruined and they won't ever make them again. Sad to see a nice gun in poor shape. Always hurts the gunsmith in me.
Be well all and treat each other nice.
A few weeks ago I got a geissle SSAE trigger for my new KAC build and it came with the little tube of lubricant.
Most of my modern guns I clean with alcohol and then use a light and even application of Dow mollycote 33.
The stuff works extremely well.
I use Ed's Red on my old stuff..
Ed's red was a modern version of what Ed Harris had gather from General Hatcher's book. Definitely cheaper and far more effective than almost all modern cleaners. I use 1 part Ed's red with 2 parts 5w-30. It has been the most effective all purpose CLP I've ever used. Smells like cancer but damn does it work good.
I always ran my M4 dry. Never had a single malfunction with that rifle.
Yeah, and AR/M16 platform was never meant to be ran dry for years, so imagine how long an AK-47/Galil ACE would run dry since they're designed from the ground-up to not require lube often
Is not if it will "run", is about wear. You can run an engine dry but it will break faster. Same with tools.
I've gravitated towards Ballistol for general cleaning. I still prefer greases like RIG, Teflon based greases The newer, relatively that is , Teflon grease by Break Free I've used in the M1A/M-14 BTW using a bolt roller greaser on the bolt roller!
Grease. Never used it till 15 years ago. Good in my warm climate. Always there until I do a full clean and inspect.
A drop of Hoppes and wiped clean suits us...some of our firearms like and get several drops, others are run nearly dry...all depends on the particular action of the firearm...
Regular CLP is alright I use it during cleaning especially the foaming kind, but I really have been preferring ALG Go juice to lube recently… and the smell is honestly amazing
SOTAR has a video on making a highly effective lubricant with motor oil and synthetic grease. We've been running this combo and just straight motor oil in our AR's for many years with great success. We've run some of these AR's HARD, as in full send with this lubricant with NO ill effects. We do run our guns a lot wetter than what y'all describe here, though.
SOTAR rocks.
I think he mentioned that oil isn’t corrosion resistant though
I have used Remington Dry lube, a Teflon based lube, I just spray the inside of my, disassembled, handguns and let it dry, reassemble and wipe off the outside. Put 5k thru my HK USP that way, plus several SIGs
Maybe you can turn this video into "Wintertime Lubrication."
You guys could use a deep freezer since you're in the South.
Mobil1 synthetic automotive grease is the best kept secret in the gun world. That and ballistol is all you really need.
mobil1 motor oil? Didn’t know they made grease but ok
@@MJA5 any company that makes oil products makes grease. Grease is just oil with a thickener to keep it in suspension.
That’s why you have grease guns that leak oil, it’s the oil falling out of suspension from the thickener over time.
@@FishFind3000 thanks man.
I am a gun builder... on Charging Handle & BCG (or any dissimilar metals like swapping a barrel) use Aeroshell 64.. On any plastic or rubber parts like Silencerco U-ring or Magpul Grips use MolyKote 111.
Recently took out my EDC 9mm to the range, it usually sits in my bag for the most part. Hadn't cleaned the gun since I shot it maybe 3 or 4 months prior. Had to take it apart and put some oil down cause the slide kept locking to the rear after a few rounds. Once oiled it shot perfectly no malfunctions.
Very informative, yet comical. I was throwing in a few of my own dad jokes during this episode.😂 Good stuff, gentleman.
For my carry pistol I like to use tri-flow PTFE oil. It wicks into place, and the carrier evaporates leaving behind a super slick film that barely feels oily and doesn't collect dust. Im still a fan of Mobil1 5w-20 for lubing my ARs and shotguns.
Up here in the north sometimes you have to run dry because it’s so cold very easy to get a dead trigger if you use too much lube
I live in Wisconsin and use Seal 1/Frog Lube types of non-toxic, bio-based lube, mostly as a rust prohibitor. I follow the old-school method of heating up the components, lubing them up, then wiping them completely dry. Enough lube soaks into the metal to lube the action when it heats up. Over-lubing with bio products will guarantee that a firearm will get gummy later, so they have to be applied as per manufacturer’s specs.
If I lived in the South, however, I’d use way more lube, and probably products that are petroleum based, but -20 F will make most oils get pretty viscous. Running dry or virtually dry is a necessity up here, IMHO.
@@edwardx.winston5744 thanks for the info I just moved from the south so this helps out a lot
@@PollyMercocet BTW, I'm not necessarily recommending Frog Lube or SEAL 1. Bio-types of gun lube require way more attention to detail when applying, can't be used with other lubes/greases, and are expensive.
I use them because they are very wife-friendly, smell nice, and, when used PRECISELY as directed, work great. But they are a pain, and many people don't think they're worth it. Obviously I think they're worth the trouble, but I certainly understand those who don't.
I use an oil that's used to protect steel on oilrigs in the North Sea , we get it at work in 25L drums.
It smells and looks like CLP. Been using it for 12 years with no problems.
I use Lucas green grease for bits that need grease.
I have 2 Remington model 760 both have rust In the exact same spot and they are both well-cared-for
Ballistol is my go to but i also use frog libe because i have a bunch of it.
I'm currently attending SDI but I still use Lucas extreme duty oil but now thanks to SDI I also use the Modern Spartan system they sent to me also keep up the good work 👍
I got a Daniel defensive ddm4vp7 or whatever it’s is. That thing was so lubed up it stained the padding in the case. It was dripping of basically.
Friend runs an AK dry. He did snow drills in it. Then he got sad when I rusted a week later
Lubriplate is just a brand of lubricant, and there’s lots of different types. I use No. 105 for automotive and engine work, but it’s a great general lubricant too. For instance, I also use it when pulling wire through a conduit, especially watertight conduit.
Ballistal... i will light spray the buffer and spring, light spray to inside lower parts, heavy spray the outside of the BCG, light apply to upper lower pins, grease apply to all sides of the charging handle
Lol thank you for breaking it down in it's simplest form.....if it moves, lube it! I do like the grease in the buffer tube idea. I'm going to try that
Back in the '50's, an Army ROTC armorer told us, if it turns, oil it, if it slides, grease it. IMHO, WD40 is a terrible lubricant. Used it on the hinge of a new over and under skeet gun. After about 15 or 20 shots, it got hard to open. The lubricating properties were so bad that the metal galled.
ALG Go Juice was what they included, they also make some really nice weights. 0000 super thin grease, temp variants that very cost effective.
WMD BCGs, with their Nib-X coating, are so slick & durable that they do not require lube. Look into them. They're amazing!
I will run a brand new AR dry for about the first 60-100 rounds and then give it a good wiping down, put a little grease around the BCG and in/around the charging handle, and then run another 100ish rounds with grease. Pull it, clean it all out really good, and then lightly apply Clenzoil to bolt and pins. Running it dry helps break in faster and then the grease helps collect the break in debris so it's easier to clean out. Unless they're test fired and lubricated from the factory, my guns get no oil until at least 120 rounds minimum.
I've found that 10/22's run best unlubed or 'very' slightly' lubed as in just a Qtip on the rails, that's it. Anything else is asking for failures.
I use teflon dry lube for my autoloading rimfires. It slicks up the surface just a bit and keeps carbon from sticking.
A little goes a long way. Too much just collects more grit and causes more problems.
I have issues with my pistol where the extra lube would blast back at me that other pistols didn’t do. Without glasses I’d have oil in my eyes. The extra oil also coated my rmr when shooting.
You can get the synthetic white lithium grease in small tubes used for boat outdrives.
Take a drink everytime Eric tilts his head to his right 😅
The only dry sound I remember from the AR platform was when we were using the M16A2 with blank ammo in a very dusty sandy southern California environment. That scraping sound still makes me sick. And I H8 blank ammo! That shit just burns dirty as hell!
Some channels seem to promote running guns dry and dirty! There’s this new thought process that has me shaking my head. Guntubers bragging about no oil and they have never cleaned it.
I kept my pistol dry when i was in the sandbox. Sand and oil go together like tar and feathers. I did keep the rails inside my 240g machine gun lubed.
Overlubrication can also have oil seep into the ammo making the primer not work
I have been polishing all my ar15 friction surfaces. It really makes a big difference in sound and smoothness. If you use a adjustable gas block you should reduce the gas after polishing everything. Only run oil on the bcg friction surfaces, buffer and fcg. Any more than that makes a dirty gun. No oil on the firing pin or gas rings. I make my own oil and like it on the thicker side. Slightly thinner in winter.
My new Geissele SSE-E trigger I bought last month came with AGL Go Juice
Especially when a gun is new and tight I use a lot of lube. Even if very few rounds are fired I clean the gun thoroughly and lubricate lightly before putting it away. A new gun cleaned and lubed very frequently will develop a very smooth action.
I just use Clenzoil now. It's a pretty good CLP IMO. For over two decades I used the two step process either with Hoppes or Shooter Lube but just a few months ago I finally gave CLP a try and I'm sold on the simplicity of using it and the lubrication quality. I also got a tube of Clenzoil grease but I haven't used it yet. I always hear how great grease is in certain applications and want to try it.
Clp is garbage. Quit being lazy. Clean, lube, wipe dry.
yup clp on my handguns n aircraft grease on my AK
Fun lube fact. The Remington nylon 66 series specifically states in the manual to NOT lube it. Have the one my grandfather got in the early 80s and I learned to shoot with it in 91-92 at about 6-7 yrs old and it's never seen a drop of oil, yet I alone have fired probably 6k+ round through it over the years.
I like to just use grease mainly... But oil works.
Metal on metal always requires something.
In below zero temperatures it's very common to run a rifle dry, though I prefer to use a synthetic PTFE rated for -45 degrees Fahrenheit if it's colder than that I'm not out in it.
"Read the dad-gone instructions."
The INSTRUCTIONS...
Пуцај метак из пушке
I had a Walther P22 that had a cloudy-sludgy type of lube all over it... caused it to misfeed and not run smoothly... so I cleaned it all up and is smooth now.
I use Outers Gun Grease on my Garand, carbine, M1A, and the race ways on all my bolt actions it works pretty well
My carry gun (P365) gets broken down every week, I blow all the dust and lint out with compressed air, including my mags, then I put a light dab of oil on the rails, dry fire a dozen times, and back in the holster.
My rifle is dry as the Sahara and hasn’t jammed for the last 5k rounds
My big brother did two tours in Afghanistan and the first thing he said to me about this new collection of guns id built was wipe all the oil off of them. It catches dirt and sand and builds up with the carbon and causes malfunctions. I don’t care what anyone says, if he says that happens, it happens. Beyond that I still lube my guns and more so when I know they’ll sit for a bit but I don’t do it like I used to. The metal is sliding anyways, there’s no cutting action or anything going on and the wear is so minimal from a functional point of view
My geissele I just got recently came with the little tube of grease
I've tried a lot and go juice or CLP work the best.... And you don't lubricate your gas rings
I’m a clp guy I spray them down then wipe them down with my oil rag. Works for me . Also I’ve discovered that Lucas has a great line of gun lubes and grease.
I use Blitz. Makes the action smooth as glass in a few mags
My rule of thumb for lubricating is
1; if it's new, run it for at least 200 rounds before lube.
2; If it's not new, lubricate the shiny spots.
Y’all gotta try the breakthrough clean battleborn gun grease and solvent. It’s the best stuff I’ve ever seen. It has a huge temp range of like -300-500 degrees, no smell of any kind, and is non toxic. It stays where you put it and wipes right off taking the carbon with it at cleaning time. It’s my go to for all things gun, or really anything I need to lube now. Their solvent is excellent too, same deal. Non toxic, no smell, and runs the carbon right off. Game changing product.
I have no affiliation with them in any way, but it’s just the best product I’ve ever seen.
In combat you don't stop in the middle of contact to lube. After a few rounds that weapon is hot and it is dry. They are built to handle adverse conditions and tested to make sure they are reliable.
Keep it clean !!! Lube a little when reassembling.
I don’t necessarily run mine sopping wet but i run homemade sriracha lube pretty wet. Better to have it wet than dry. Use white lithium grease on my ak
I lightly grease the rails of my BCG with red lithium and lightly oil the bolt, cam and firing pin. Tiny dab of grease on the friction surfaces of the charging handle. Never had a malfunction except for a stovepipe once.
As one of my Automotive instructors once said, "Lube it or lose it!"
When I bought my stainless 1911 a veteran at my gun club said don't use oil on the slide on that it will just end up all over your shirt and will dry up in a few shots, he said use grease so I've been using a molly reinforced light grease that I have. The manual said always lubricate a stainless steel firearm.
Slip 2000 ewl with a couple real light dabs of high pressure grease where the bolt rides in carrier and trigger. P.s. phosphate is under rated, it holds oil great.
my glock Manuel showed loads of stuff, however the (warning do not remove copper coating) probably should not have been after the pics of where to oil. i opened up the gun and it had been in the case so long the black finish was blotchy from the foam padding. i thought it was rust. of course i removed it. i looked at the pictures and put the oil where it said and got to the end and saw the warning. im american- i read pictures not words.
The term used for lube density is viscosity.
Missing shooting vids Eric. Haven't seen a melt down for so long. Politics are getting in the way. Love your channel mate.