@@erics3599 yeah, I actually did it a about 2 years ago, lol, but I had someone ask me about the process which led me back to your video. Just left the comment and shared it with them since it helped me get the job done.
Did my Heater Core and entire A/C system . Would have been WICKED hard without your video ! Thanks for the Wicked Informative Video ! And I didn't have to pull my dash out just set it on my passenger seat
You did the same job I did, fixed heater core and A/C! It was nice having both working again properly, especially on rainy days. My windows would fog up so bad from the moist outside air, the heater core leaking coolant, and no A/C to dry the air out. Glad the video helped! I was thinking later putting it on the passenger seat would work too, I had already decided to do the strap on that bar like I saw in another video though so didn't try it.
Good video, I had my mechanic do mine since I have no time to do it myself. One thing he showed me was on my '99 Durango, the blower motor seemed to be built together as part of the blower box. Was your Dakota the same way?
Thanks. Yes, the blower motor is part of the HVAC box on my Dakota. The A/C evaporator, heater core, temperature control (basically just a flap that controls how much air comes from either the outside/evaporator and/or heater core) and the blower motor are all in the HVAC box. There is also a flap that closes off the outside air if you put it on "max a/c". The blower motor resistor is on the firewall. I was dreading doing the job myself but after I did it realized it wasn't that bad after all and is actually very straightforward. I know I would have appreciated a video like this before I did the job, especially knowing that you don't have to take the dash completely out, WAY less to disconnect, that's why I decided to make the video.
Be sure to click "show more" to see the additional text I typed as I left one very important thing out of the video (the hard plastic vacuum line by the heater core hoses in the engine compartment). Be sure to disconnect it so you don't break it! There are other corrections there too.
@@nickmillhollin3996 Sorry didn't see your comment, for some reason I'm not getting messages if people leave comments. If you have the same HVAC box (AN A/C) like mine then I would think you'd need to at least loosen the dash so you can have some room to remove the motor. It's a squirrel cage fan and I don't think you'd be able to get it out with the dash in place. Probably don't need to drop the steering wheel or remove the electrical, but for sure the center metal bracket, both 13mm bolts, and the 5 bolts on top. That might make it loose enough to where you can get the fan out.
Hi Eric S, I'm Planning to replace the heater core of my 97 Dakota v8 5.2 , Do I need to order a blend door too incase its no more good and I can replace it also. ? How about the Ac Evaporator mine the Ac is not working too, planning to replace both , I'm taking it apart anaway , Just need your good Ideas of what other parts inside the HVAC that needs to prepare incase I need it. Thank you very much for the video, and I'm waiting for your reply as soon as possible,.... I'll highly appreciate it.. Take care...
Hi, sorry was on vacation just got back. I never tried to find a blend door, my guess is you'll only be able to get that from a dealer. Since I didn't think about it at the time didn't have one on hand to replace it with, and I needed the truck for my work commute so I couldn't afford to wait for the part. Luckily mine was still functional, it just looked bad. It's a very simplistic part anyways, even if it was in bad shape it would probably at least be somewhat functional. You can replace the a/c evaporator if you want, I didn't think about that at the time as I thought it was the compressor on mine (system had freon in it so no leaks, it just didn't work) but I now believe it was due to the accumulator had clogged up. It certainly wouldn't hurt to replace the evaporator, especially since you have the HVAC box out and opened up and your existing one is 20 years old now. I think it needs to have a little PAG oil put in it, I showed the chart for how much. Easier to add oil before you put it in the HVAC box. That's about it really inside the HVAC box. The heater core, a/c evaporator and blend door. Maybe the foam they use to seal up the lid, and the foam on the outside if you really want to be complete. I haven't noticed any issues with mine though due to using the old foam for both. Hope that helps! Feel free to ask any other questions.
It's a squirrel cage fan so you might not have enough room to pull it out even if you could get all the screws out with the dash in place. For replacing the blower motor you might only need to do the steps on the passenger side, center console and the 5 screws on top of the dash, and then on the drivers side loosen the 13mm bolt and remove parking brake rod so the dash can move.
I have no idea... I've only done this job the one time and this was the way I did it. But based on how much I've seen that you need to disconnect by completely removing the dash, probably quite a bit. As it all needs to be reconnected too as well as getting the dash back in, so the more you remove just adds more work! I think doing it this way would keep the frustration level down too. I was dreading doing this job but it badly needed to be done, in retrospect it wasn't too bad.
Just curious, why did you have to replace the entire metal hose? It seems to be a simple part not much to go wrong, only need to replace the orifice tube that's inside of it, as well as the o-rings.
Wow, that's crazy. I wonder why they decided to start doing that? It's a standard a/c part hard to imagine why they'd do that except to make more money ripping people off. It was easily removable on my truck once I made that tool out of wire. Most guys were saying use an air compressor to blow it out but I couldn't get that to work. Glad it didn't work now as may have lost the orientation with no way to know how it was in originally.
Probably the best video on the topic. Thanks for the great explanation of the process.
Thanks, hope it was helpful to you. Did you already do the job?
@@erics3599 yeah, I actually did it a about 2 years ago, lol, but I had someone ask me about the process which led me back to your video. Just left the comment and shared it with them since it helped me get the job done.
Thanks for the video. Me and buddy tackled this in under 3 hours start to finish. Book time is 6.5 hrs so definitely a time saver.
You're welcome! Glad it was a help to you.
Did my Heater Core and entire A/C system . Would have been WICKED hard without your video ! Thanks for the Wicked Informative Video ! And I didn't have to pull my dash out just set it on my passenger seat
You did the same job I did, fixed heater core and A/C! It was nice having both working again properly, especially on rainy days. My windows would fog up so bad from the moist outside air, the heater core leaking coolant, and no A/C to dry the air out. Glad the video helped! I was thinking later putting it on the passenger seat would work too, I had already decided to do the strap on that bar like I saw in another video though so didn't try it.
Thanks for all the descriptive pictures, it really paints how to reassemble the HVAC box, most videos don't have that your video is the best much love
You're welcome, glad it helped. Hope the video helped with the removal of the HVAC box too.
Good video, I had my mechanic do mine since I have no time to do it myself. One thing he showed me was on my '99 Durango, the blower motor seemed to be built together as part of the blower box. Was your Dakota the same way?
Thanks. Yes, the blower motor is part of the HVAC box on my Dakota. The A/C evaporator, heater core, temperature control (basically just a flap that controls how much air comes from either the outside/evaporator and/or heater core) and the blower motor are all in the HVAC box. There is also a flap that closes off the outside air if you put it on "max a/c". The blower motor resistor is on the firewall.
I was dreading doing the job myself but after I did it realized it wasn't that bad after all and is actually very straightforward. I know I would have appreciated a video like this before I did the job, especially knowing that you don't have to take the dash completely out, WAY less to disconnect, that's why I decided to make the video.
Be sure to click "show more" to see the additional text I typed as I left one very important thing out of the video (the hard plastic vacuum line by the heater core hoses in the engine compartment). Be sure to disconnect it so you don't break it! There are other corrections there too.
Eric S I have a 99 Dodge Durango .... looking to replace the blower motor. Could you help me out with any info ? Diagrams or videos thank you
@@nickmillhollin3996 Sorry didn't see your comment, for some reason I'm not getting messages if people leave comments. If you have the same HVAC box (AN A/C) like mine then I would think you'd need to at least loosen the dash so you can have some room to remove the motor. It's a squirrel cage fan and I don't think you'd be able to get it out with the dash in place. Probably don't need to drop the steering wheel or remove the electrical, but for sure the center metal bracket, both 13mm bolts, and the 5 bolts on top. That might make it loose enough to where you can get the fan out.
Hi Eric S, I'm Planning to replace the heater core of my 97 Dakota v8 5.2 , Do I need to order a blend door too incase its no more good and I can replace it also. ? How about the Ac Evaporator mine the Ac is not working too, planning to replace both , I'm taking it apart anaway , Just need your good Ideas of what other parts inside the HVAC that needs to prepare incase I need it. Thank you very much for the video, and I'm waiting for your reply as soon as possible,.... I'll highly appreciate it.. Take care...
Hi, sorry was on vacation just got back.
I never tried to find a blend door, my guess is you'll only be able to get that from a dealer. Since I didn't think about it at the time didn't have one on hand to replace it with, and I needed the truck for my work commute so I couldn't afford to wait for the part. Luckily mine was still functional, it just looked bad. It's a very simplistic part anyways, even if it was in bad shape it would probably at least be somewhat functional.
You can replace the a/c evaporator if you want, I didn't think about that at the time as I thought it was the compressor on mine (system had freon in it so no leaks, it just didn't work) but I now believe it was due to the accumulator had clogged up. It certainly wouldn't hurt to replace the evaporator, especially since you have the HVAC box out and opened up and your existing one is 20 years old now. I think it needs to have a little PAG oil put in it, I showed the chart for how much. Easier to add oil before you put it in the HVAC box.
That's about it really inside the HVAC box. The heater core, a/c evaporator and blend door. Maybe the foam they use to seal up the lid, and the foam on the outside if you really want to be complete. I haven't noticed any issues with mine though due to using the old foam for both.
Hope that helps! Feel free to ask any other questions.
Could you get to the blower motor without pulling back the dash, like just going through the bottom or the glovebox area?
It's a squirrel cage fan so you might not have enough room to pull it out even if you could get all the screws out with the dash in place.
For replacing the blower motor you might only need to do the steps on the passenger side, center console and the 5 screws on top of the dash, and then on the drivers side loosen the 13mm bolt and remove parking brake rod so the dash can move.
which one of the heater core hoses is inlet and which is out going to water pump?
On my truck the bottom hose runs to water pump. I'm not sure if that how it was originally or if it makes a difference or not.
Eric, I know this is an older post, but about how long (or how much time was saved Lol) ?
I have no idea... I've only done this job the one time and this was the way I did it. But based on how much I've seen that you need to disconnect by completely removing the dash, probably quite a bit. As it all needs to be reconnected too as well as getting the dash back in, so the more you remove just adds more work! I think doing it this way would keep the frustration level down too. I was dreading doing this job but it badly needed to be done, in retrospect it wasn't too bad.
Thanks for getting back to me Eric. I'll let you know and post how much time it takes.
Edward Strasburg hey do you remember how long it took?😂
the orfice tube you should have replaced the entire hose i just had to get one and it was $149
Just curious, why did you have to replace the entire metal hose? It seems to be a simple part not much to go wrong, only need to replace the orifice tube that's inside of it, as well as the o-rings.
it has the orifice tube made in it. its not serviceable. but some people do it. i have tried but it never worked for me
Wow, that's crazy. I wonder why they decided to start doing that? It's a standard a/c part hard to imagine why they'd do that except to make more money ripping people off. It was easily removable on my truck once I made that tool out of wire. Most guys were saying use an air compressor to blow it out but I couldn't get that to work. Glad it didn't work now as may have lost the orientation with no way to know how it was in originally.
yes it is