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Sorry didn't see this till just now. Try this link (it's in the description too) it still works. www.trucktransdiag.com/downloads/Dodge%20Band%20Adjustments.pdf

What year Camry do you have? I only have experience with this '96 2.2L.

How'd it go?

Sorry didn't see this comment until just now. I'm not sure about those two ports, I was just checking anything EGR related. Do you have an air compressor? See if they are plugged at all by blowing air into them. All your vacuum hoses are ok, no leaks? Do you have a vacuum gauge like the one I was using? Is your IAC valve ok? Mine was totally stuck, had to hit it with WD-40 and wiggle it to get it moving again, then put a better oil on it. Not sure if that would have anything to do with it but just thinking about what else is in that area.

Your antenna is stuck in the up position? Shouldn't be an issue unless you go through a car wash as then it could get broken off. I replaced mine because it was stuck almost all the way down and my radio wasn't getting good reception. But even after replacing the antenna the reception didn't improve much. I think it's just the cheap radio I installed. It's not hard to replace the antenna. If I ever do the job again will re-do the video, for this video I did the job first and only took pictures for myself so that's why it's the way it is, after I was done realized it maybe could be helpful to someone. I'll watch this video first to remind myself of how it's done and the issues found if I do the job again.

I'd be concerned it would fail smog test, especially here in CA where it's strict. Now that it's relocated much easier to work on and troubleshoot.

You're welcome! Yeah that would be a PITA to figure out later on. I did mark the tubes where they went when I took them off.

Glad to hear it!

You're welcome, glad it helped.

How'd it go?

I just returned from the garage, doing the same relocation on my ‘96. It’s long enough!

No, as stated in the video just used it as is. If you follow the routing suggestion I gave there (underneath the far left fuel injection cable) it seemed like there was plenty of room and it was just the right length... at least for my car.

@@erics3599my Camry got two of the a red a blue one is that common? I got a 95’

You're welcome!

12mm bolt is M8 x 1.25 x 20mm 10mm bolt is M6 x 1.0 x 16mm found it. Just going to leave the old broken one where it lives.

Code P0401.

Was getting P0401, and in case it was the VSV wanted to relocate it so it would be easier to troubleshoot.

Do you have the same year car? If yes, what antenna mast replacement did you use, the same one I did? I'm wondering if it might not be the correct length.

mine does it both ways

I didn't do that, just installed it and fired it up. The pump wouldn't run dry for very long I'd think. I don't recall now how long it took to start since the fuel filter was empty, but it didn't seem like very long. I was more concerned about fuel leaks and thankfully there were none.

Was the '98 the same as the '96?

Really jam

So this is the original antenna that is doing this, or the mast replacement? On mine the original antenna was totally stuck and the nylon broke. If original antenna you might be able to loosen it up with WD-40 or something like that on the mast portion, but you're probably better off just replacing it. It's not that hard to do.

You're welcome. Yep still have it, it's my daily driver for work since it gets better mileage than my truck. Were you able to fix your P0401? I've actually thought about re-doing this video as the actual troubleshooting only takes a few minutes plus I left something out that I mentioned in the comments (testing the VSV with the car turned on but not running).

@@erics3599 I didn't honestly have a code in mine its 92 it doesn't throw code i guess but i replaced it anyway ez to do i uploaded video how to do it love my old toyota will keep it with and never sell it no matter what issues it will have it will get fixed

I have no idea what you are asking. Google translate reported this as "Will you please make a video about Drosel damper?".

I'm assuming you are referring to the vacuum tubing? I don't know. I ended up with a lot of extra tubing when I relocated the VSV so used a piece of that for EGR troubleshooting.

Thanks!

Yes I am using it with a CA-10BT no problem. I believe the blue wire operates the antenna. I used the Metra 70-1761 and connected all of the wires.

It's been working good but getting a little flaky again, maybe need to add more layers of masking tape.

@@erics3599 I think they're just bad remotes. Wish they made more of the official Xbox remotes

I never had any experience with them. On this one ended up replacing the masking tape with some of the thin rubber that's in between the stick on rubber feet (like item B087MG3G76 on Amazon). It's working a lot better now.

Have you even tried to do the job yet? Pull the old antenna out, and if you get stuck on something then check this video out. It's really not that hard to work on the antenna, just a couple tricky spots putting the new antenna in. For me the hardest part was removing the old antenna from the assembly because it was really stuck. I probably should have just stuck with what I did initially, which was just showing the tricky spots and a few other hints. But then I decided to try and patch small video portions together showing other steps and it didn't really work out. If I ever do the job again will re-do it, but for now my new antenna is working fine.

if i finished watching your video i would see you explain this! LOL my bad. I will get that wrench from a parts store and should be easy from there. Thanks!

Did you get it off ok? There are other videos showing it removed and how dirty it can get. On mine the hole on the intake where the EGR valve mounts had a little crud in it, and the tube barely had any at all. It's easy to remove the tube if you take the throttle body off the intake. You don't have to completely remove it from the car. It'd be a good idea anyways so you can clean any crud that might fall inside too.

@@erics3599 I wasn't able to find the crow foot wrench locally so I ordered one, but I was able to break it loose with a set of pliers, just can't get an angle to turn it any further than 1/8th of a turn.. I didn't want to take off the throttle body again but maybe I should as I need to change my IACV as well... and wouldn't hurt to clean it out while i'm there. I am not sure if i'll try to do it this weekend or not lol, we will see.

Did you finally get it taken off? If so how dirty was it? As I'm thinking if everything else checked out that has to be what the problem is. You can clean the IACV with throttle body cleaner should be good enough. Mine was frozen wasn't even moving at all.

@@erics3599 I finally did it today! Came off without too much of a fight, boy the EGR valve was nasty though. Put a new one on, feels like its running a little better but time will tell if my CEL comes back. Didn't have time to pull the throttle body off and clean it but I did it about a year ago and it was really gunked up then.

Thanks, hope it was helpful to you. Did you already do the job?

@@erics3599 yeah, I actually did it a about 2 years ago, lol, but I had someone ask me about the process which led me back to your video. Just left the comment and shared it with them since it helped me get the job done.

Thanks! So far so good it's been going great for 6 weeks now and no more P0401. It was coming on every day for a couple weeks (took a while before I could work on it). Car seems to be running a lot better too. I'm not familiar with the 2000 model, is the intake similar? Did you try removing the EGR valve from the intake and check for carbon buildup where it connects to the manifold? That was the first thing I did before buying the vacuum pump but it hardly had any at all. I've seen some videos where it was badly clogged but would still pass the "kill engine" check. May as well clean the throttle body at the same time, and that idle air control valve. Mine was totally stuck. I don't think I ever read about the MAP sensor causing problems. Someone did mention there are 2 coolant sensors though, one is used by the ECM and the other for the gauge, but I couldn't verify that. If it's misreading that then it could open the EGR too soon before the engine was warm. I also replaced all of the capacitors in my ECM too.

@@erics3599 Good to hear about the code staying clear. Those 90's camrys are bulletproof, so they're worth keeping on the road. Very cool car. I'll check for any carbon build up in the areas you suggested. Thank you for the response. What's life without our man/guy projects? Lol Take care

@@arrya5372 Did you try removing the EGR valve and check for carbon buildup?

@@erics3599 Hi. I haven't checked for carbon build up, actually. I pressed up into the EGR diaphragm with my finger to rule out the EGR. After hearing that doing this and having the car die from an idle is a tried-and-true-method to diagnose an EGR Valve, I called it good and moved on without actually taking it out and checking for carbon built up. probably Thanks for asking.

@@erics3599 But my check engine light went away a few ago. Go figure. I'm thinking that the aftermarket EGR modulator fails from time to time? Maybe its not as good of quality as an OEM part? Not sure, but we'll see how long it goes without setting off a check engine light.

It's not that hard to do, just take it out of car, take it apart and go from there. If you forget how something goes back together then check out the video. Dunno when I'll ever do this again, new one seems to be working great. If you live in SoCal come on over and can fix your antenna and shoot the video.

@@erics3599 i posted a video of me taking it apart, i found out the plastic cord that pulls and pushes the antenna was broken because i yanked it out of another car lol...i just put it back in without the motor assembly and cut the rest of the plastic cord off, since I can lift and lower the antenna manually, not that i listen to the radio anyways! It's a neat factory feature but im ok with how it looks and works for now.

@@davidw9403 Your complaining about my video is hilarious, I found your video and it had no helpful content at all.

You're welcome, glad it helped! I did figure out what was causing my P0401 (vacuum modulator), made another video showing some troubleshooting tips. But it made it much easier to troubleshoot and see the vacuum flow having the VSV up top there.

If the motor is still working on your antenna I wouldn't bother getting a junkyard one as it probably has a broken mast cable too, it appears to be a very common problem. Replacing the antenna mast isn't hard to do, sorry if my video makes it sound like it is, there are just some tricky spots here and there to deal with but it's really no big deal. That was kind of the main purpose of this video was to show those tricky spots and some hints on how to overcome them, it wasn't meant to be a complete newbie how-to-do-it video. If I ever do this job again I'll redo the video so it is more straightforward.

Yeah sorry it was quickly shot after I finished the job, if I ever do this job again will re-do it. Too hard to film it while I'm doing it, plus was still trying to figure out how to get it done because there is nothing else out there really. This was just intended to give some hints on what needed to be done. 1. Verify the antenna motor still works. You should hear it run when you turn on the car and when you shut down the car. If it doesn't do that then this video won't help. 2. Completely remove antenna from the car. If you click "Show More" to see all the comments I entered there is a link to someone who shows step by step getting it out. Here is where my video kinda kicks in with some hints on what to do and what I encountered. 3. Remove the old antenna mast from the antenna assembly. This includes removing the cover there to completely remove any nylon pieces from the old mast inside there. Don't reassemble it yet. 4. Plug antenna power back in. Turn on the car (you don't have to start it) and wait until the antenna motor stops running. 5. Remove the white cover and then take out the gear by where the motor is. 6. Fully extend the new antenna mast. 7. Feed the nylon piece into the antenna assembly. Then go by what I was saying @5:45 in the video. There are some tricky parts to getting it started. 8. I think you could get away with just starting the nylon piece and getting it past those two parts where it would get stuck, then put the antenna back together (put the gear back in, white cover, feed the nylon into the spindle, then put the black cover back on). 9. Turn off the car stereo, or turn the car off. The antenna motor will kick in and start pulling the antenna down. It would be good to have a helper at this point unless you are really fast, as you want to make sure the antenna feeds all the way in there properly without getting snagged on anything. I was able to use the car stereo IR remote with the back seat folded down to do this by myself. 10. Once the antenna is all the way down you are done. Reinstall it in the car (don't forget to connect the coax cable) and then try it out to make sure it's working properly. I don't recommend extending the power antenna without it being installed in the car. I'm not going to get into the details of why, you can always not follow my recommendation and see why for yourself.

Sorry just saw this now. Are those the nuts on the fuel lines? Maybe try using some penetrating oil on it and let it soak in for a while. You have flare nut wrenches, right? I wouldn't use an open end wrench. The squeeze technique usually works really well.

Same here couldn't undo the 14mm nut it seemed stripped . Then put it back together now have a serious leak

@@tonylopez4513 Sorry to hear that. The nuts on mine looked like they'd never been touched. Someone must have used an open end or crescent wrench on yours. Maybe have to switch to vice grips to get it tight as replacing those lines is probably a pain to do. Assuming it's leaking at that connection and not somewhere else.

@@erics3599 well figured out thr source to thr problem was double washing. 1 washer needed to connect the fuel line and 1 to the banjo nut

When I changed mine discovered that with the previous replacement they did that. Was very surprised it wasn't leaking.

You did the same job I did, fixed heater core and A/C! It was nice having both working again properly, especially on rainy days. My windows would fog up so bad from the moist outside air, the heater core leaking coolant, and no A/C to dry the air out. Glad the video helped! I was thinking later putting it on the passenger seat would work too, I had already decided to do the strap on that bar like I saw in another video though so didn't try it.

You're welcome! It was shifting weird between 1-2 and 2-3 and it does seem a lot better now. I did adjust the band that's in the pan, but I also replaced the solenoid, pressure sensor and accumulator spring (that controls 3-4) during that time. The band that's in the pan is the easiest for a beginner, it's the front band that's challenging but the method I show should make it easier to do. Do you have an inch-lb torque wrench? You'll need one. I used the Harbor Freight 1/4" one. If you have the pan off I'd replace the accumulator spring as it's inexpensive and they are known to break, if it does break you lose 4th gear. I used Phoenix 22832A which is the upgraded 0.126" spring. The solenoid and pressure sensor you can get as a bundle on Amazon (B01AZ7GMNQ) for a good price. That's a little more pricey and you probably don't need them, but they're easy to replace. Check out video wqjIH5XXcxg he shows how to do it. Video 6oMC-r1OXzI shows how to replace the spring. I also replaced the pan with the Dorman 265-839 so I have a drain plug now. It holds about 1 quart more of ATF than stock as it's a little deeper.

Forgot to add that I also replaced the transmission speed sensor at the same time too. I used the Dorman 917-602. You'll need a 1" deep socket to replace it.

@@erics3599 Thank you for this new info!! Mine is shifting weird in those same spots. May I ask...How did you determine that you needed to back off 2 1/4 turns? Also, are you sure you have a 44RE? I don't think those were in Dakotas until 2000. My 1997 has a 42RE. According to the service manual, if you have a 42RE, you should have made 3 5/8 turns, 2 7/8 for the 46RE, and 1 7/8 for the 47RE. I'm only mentioning this in case you want to readjust your turns. Thanks again, Eric!!

I think the dealer told me it was the 44RE when I first called to get the ATF filter, so I wrote it down on a copy of the window sticker. I have the 5.2L V8 4x4. From other research I've done confirmed that the 5.2L engine was paired with the 44RE transmission. The 3.9 V6 with the 42RE, and the 5.9L V8 with the 46RE. This pdf file has the # of turns. www.trucktransdiag.com/downloads/Dodge%20Band%20Adjustments.pdf This site shows match-ups of engines to transmissions. www.txchange.com/id.htm What engine do you have in your truck? I just searched on the part number I found on the transmission (on drivers side close to the front of the transmission, etched into the metal, not a plate). The full part number is PK52119513, but wasn't getting any hits on that. If I search for just 52119513 then it does come up with 44RE. The below site has a picture of where it is. www.justanswer.com/dodge/2d462-98-dodge-durango-5-2-engine-how-find.html

You're welcome! Glad it was a help to you.

I hope it helped!

It's a squirrel cage fan so you might not have enough room to pull it out even if you could get all the screws out with the dash in place. For replacing the blower motor you might only need to do the steps on the passenger side, center console and the 5 screws on top of the dash, and then on the drivers side loosen the 13mm bolt and remove parking brake rod so the dash can move.

I have no idea... I've only done this job the one time and this was the way I did it. But based on how much I've seen that you need to disconnect by completely removing the dash, probably quite a bit. As it all needs to be reconnected too as well as getting the dash back in, so the more you remove just adds more work! I think doing it this way would keep the frustration level down too. I was dreading doing this job but it badly needed to be done, in retrospect it wasn't too bad.

Thanks for getting back to me Eric. I'll let you know and post how much time it takes.

Edward Strasburg hey do you remember how long it took?😂

I didn't even consider going that route so didn't investigate trying to do that. Those lines are rigid so there wouldn't be much play I'd think, so it would kinda be like trying to remove it with it still attached to the truck. Plus you'd be torquing on them when moving things around, sounds like a good way to damage the evaporator or something else. Also with it that close to the firewall I'm thinking it would be difficult to get to all the screws and would potentially add hours of frustration to the job. It's so much easier to work on with it out of the truck. I know it's a hassle and added expense if you don't have a vacuum pump and a/c gauges, but at least you'd have them for future projects. Luckily for me there is a Harbor Freight nearby and I was able to get both cheaply when they were on sale and had the 20% off coupon (local shops wanted almost $300 for a recharge). You might be able to find a shop that would discharge your system for minimal or even free if you let them keep the refrigerant from it.

Hi, sorry was on vacation just got back. I never tried to find a blend door, my guess is you'll only be able to get that from a dealer. Since I didn't think about it at the time didn't have one on hand to replace it with, and I needed the truck for my work commute so I couldn't afford to wait for the part. Luckily mine was still functional, it just looked bad. It's a very simplistic part anyways, even if it was in bad shape it would probably at least be somewhat functional. You can replace the a/c evaporator if you want, I didn't think about that at the time as I thought it was the compressor on mine (system had freon in it so no leaks, it just didn't work) but I now believe it was due to the accumulator had clogged up. It certainly wouldn't hurt to replace the evaporator, especially since you have the HVAC box out and opened up and your existing one is 20 years old now. I think it needs to have a little PAG oil put in it, I showed the chart for how much. Easier to add oil before you put it in the HVAC box. That's about it really inside the HVAC box. The heater core, a/c evaporator and blend door. Maybe the foam they use to seal up the lid, and the foam on the outside if you really want to be complete. I haven't noticed any issues with mine though due to using the old foam for both. Hope that helps! Feel free to ask any other questions.

Just curious, why did you have to replace the entire metal hose? It seems to be a simple part not much to go wrong, only need to replace the orifice tube that's inside of it, as well as the o-rings.

it has the orifice tube made in it. its not serviceable. but some people do it. i have tried but it never worked for me

Wow, that's crazy. I wonder why they decided to start doing that? It's a standard a/c part hard to imagine why they'd do that except to make more money ripping people off. It was easily removable on my truck once I made that tool out of wire. Most guys were saying use an air compressor to blow it out but I couldn't get that to work. Glad it didn't work now as may have lost the orientation with no way to know how it was in originally.

yes it is