7AGE - Worth it? 4AGE vs 7AGE
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- Опубликовано: 19 июн 2023
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Test engine spec:
7afe bottom end 1800cc
Pauter rods
JE pistons
Smallport head - mild work?
kelford cams - eycrometer says 9mm lift 270-280 advertised
shimless buckets & aftermarket springs
stock 7afe flywheel
G4A Headers and exhaust
G4A ITB's 52mm 
Авто/Мото
Whats your pick? And more importantly, what version sounds the best?
4A motor for sound no matter the tune.
7A motor. Pack horse. Can do plenty of work, just not at a fast pace. Can hear it when it says "enough", where the 4A says "MMMOOOORRRREEEEE!!!"
@@crd-nz_001 stump puller
My motor sounds the shittest.😢
I don't see much point in a 200cc increase with displacement... Better to go 400cc more and drop in a 3sge...especially a red or black top beams
Would love to see what you could do with a BEAMS mate💪🏽
I think this shows just how much having a good head matters
That's what she said
The head and the cams do the majority of the Power
That's what I told my girl
In so many cases, you arent wrong
Especially right before bed and after waking up!
Great work! Thanks for sharing!
Amazing video! Good job. Very interesting 😊
Good comparison. Would love to see the 1600 stroker (5age) in there to see how it compares. I run a turbo mrp 5age with cnc smallport and it absolutely sings. Na 5age would definitely be interesting how it performs.
Im currently building a 7age engine with an 2zzge crankshaft .crankshaft has machined for the support bearings and better rpm caracter
That 7A would be a good motor for street 86 with air con and a tow bar.
I've built a couple of them, it did feel more balanced driving. I guess a bit like a more modern engine. Like less fluff on the bottom. Both of them still needed to pass smog so they were as stock as could be.
If I was building N/A I’d go with the lighter 1600 with a blacktop head, but shortly I’m gonna do a 7age turbo build using a blacktop head with poncams. The added displacement will help the turbo spool I hope. Mr G4A I wish you did more 20v head stuff!!
I'm running a built blacktop, i love it, but it's nothing compared to G4A's "good engine"
Good luck I'm still building my 7age .🎉
Wooww that ending scream is fabulous.
Amazing video so many people have this question 7a or 4a . I think the 7a don't rev up to 9k because it have 85.5mm stroke and 81mm bore. Will be interesting see how the 4age rev up with stroke kit 83mm stroke 82mm bore thanks for all your videos
i think the better bet is to change the rod ratio on the 4age and start chasing higher revs. but then your getting into the dry sump territory. vht racings 4age was a little monster at 11,300 rpm
The vht one is cool. But it's more setup to run like an atlantic motor. doesn't really do much under 7000rpm. Kinda forcing it to make the power at really high rpm. Not saying it isn't impressive, and works for its intended purpose. the dyno sheets I seen seems like they didn't make any more power than atlantic setup. My setups I try work on where the engine naturally wants to make power. And aim for big power curve
You can hear the extra displacement. Would be interesting with a 20V Head. I played with the idea for some time, to get a 7A-FE Corolla Hatch and import a nice Silver or Blacktop from Japan. But I had to push that back. Maybe someday...
20v only makes more power factory due to higher comp, vvt, bigger cams and better induction. The head itself isn't anything special
@@Garage4age good info, would you say the bigport tvis (i think its the "red-top"?) head is better?
@@jackmiller8851 Is a few different casting versions of the bigport head, i tested them in this vid: ruclips.net/video/kX4CAVEsdVA/видео.html I call them early and late heads. but it maybe more which plant they were cast in rather than a year thing after talking to a few people. anyway, usually the redtop bigport is the worst of the 16v. the "turd" head is actually a bluetop bigport head. but has been modified. also bigport is slightly misleading. as smallport head is actually bigger than some bigport heads once get to the port divider. It seems to me the port entry is only big on the bigport head so they could use the tvis system.
10k rpm sounds so good ❤
Great videos, been watching for some time now! 🎉 Could you do a video on injector timing/phasing? Open valve Vs closed valve?
I attempted to awhile back. but one of those days that nothing went to plan. will try again sometime
Big job 👏
I think this shows just how much getting good head matters
My dream build would be your good engine... sounds exquisite
If you guys want a light 1800cc engine and good power, just get the 2zz swap kit from niteparts and with some bolt ons and standalone, it has been proven to make 215whp on 93oct pump gas on fwd though
hadn't thought of that! thanks for the inspiration !
Can confirm 7AG's are hard to make power up top. Mine has a cnc-ported head and shimless bucket cams with big lift and it runs out of breath at around 8500. The mid range torque is amazing though.
love your 7age videos man, planning on plopping one in my 90 celica st.
remember watching that video of your 7age pulls way back when lol and the shit talkers saying it was a wet fart 😅😅 was awesome.
True, i built 2 7age's one with 16v Big Port Cylinder Head and the other with a BT 20v cylinder head. It was built just to see how it will hold up, both has 7a stock rods and 20v pistons. On the 16v 7age we had to take alot of timing out as the comp was high and it was starting to ping. However both was falling flat at around 6200rpm making around 115kw.
Good engine for noise,
That 7a needs some big port work done to make it worth while, the turd would be better as it's power is over a longer duration so you can gear it to take advantage of it
Yeah thats the thing. Is only going to make as much power as the head allows. big ask for a 4age head
Well you have to combine 7age block with 4age head and crank with long rods and custom pistons to make legendary 9age
I love listening to that thing❤
Good engine all day what sound🤙
Do you think its not great having a high revving 7age. Because i got a 20v blacktop head and a 7afe block but I don’t know how high i can rev it. The head has tomei cams, supertech springs and retainers and its ported
i wonder how much a little boost on both setups would change things?
i see the 7age a great street engine and adding boost would only make that better
turbo anything is easy. think that's where a lot of the 7a hype come from. spool a bigger turbo make more power. probably also not as much advantage these days with the better turbo tech. the 193b cams are a little too aggressive for turbo. make good power up top, but lose a lot of bottom end.
Thanks
I have a 2.3l Isuzu trooper hear in the states, are there any performance mods worth doing? 93hp/73kw
Sheesh love the rpm! Pretty stout for such a small engine with locked cam timing.
The good engine and Frankenturd have vvti
You've done the 4A, the 4A long rod and the 7A. Now we need somebody to donate a 83mm "strocker" crankshaft and custom rods for the cause.
So then you could try the "5"AG (strocked 4AG) and, something that I thought a lot about, but I have never seen before: the "6"AG (83mm destrocked 7A, or "5"A long rod depending on how you see things)
6A bottom end, "good engine" cylinder head and VVTI could be an interesting combo😋
@Garage4age what's the best pipe size for a 16V smallport?
Who doesn't like a little 4 cylinder on song you have some strong engines, the 1800 looks like an marketing afterthought redesign not worth the hassle of tuning by the looks of it, unless you decide to play forced induction where flow and rpm matters a bit less.
Haven't seen you running anything with supercharger 👍
And how can one achieve such revolutions / min ?, Exactly at 4A-GE????
would you ever try fit a hayabusa head on a 1600cc?
Holy crap your "good engine" is epic. I'm in the middle of sorting out my 20v intake, made 83kw stock engine, 110kw with exhaust and cams, 120kw with 12.9:1 comp built engine oversized valves and porting and 194b cams with vct. Now full 3" Exhaust making 127kw but the intake mods you did with the 4" inlet will be getting done soon. Hoping to break 130kw. I cant imagine making 160+kw with this engine. Are 20v even capable of that even with big cams? Or is the big port the only way to go? Thoughts? If you are interested in being hired to improve my setup i'd love to go over things with you.
127kw is pretty good. I haven't done a whole heap with the 20v head. Haven't really seen anyone make big numbers with them. you can run the vvt with 193c cams if you wanted to try something a bit bigger. is clearance on stock pistons. but yeah, will have to check clearances on your setup and some way of adjusting the vvt start/end point. toda do a pin that gives a little adjustment. or mod the pulley.
The good engine runs a smallport head btw.
@@Garage4age Pistons are too aggressive for larger cams with vvt unfortunately. Had the 194c cams but clearances were checked and it was a no-go. Because we are revving to 9500rpm currently using 50mm SQ velocity stacks inside the airbox, I was wondering if longer stacks would gain me accross the rev range even with 20% increased head flow through porting and 1mm oversized valves? I wanted to do a curved setup and test shortened versions from the standard length like you did on the 20v. But I don't have the luxury atm. I figured because bigger porting, bigger valves, and an aluminum curved velocity stack with belmouth might be worth going shorter than your "best compromise" test at 20mm shorter than stock for the 20v in-box curved velocity stacks? Honestly 50mm are doing quite well, but we were wanting optimisation.
Good timing on these 7age videos, I'm in the planning stages of doing an engine build for my AW11. I am considering whether I should build up the 4age in it, or do a 7age build since I have access to a 7afe. From the dyno sheets here it seems like the 4age head chokes out a bit trying to fill that extra 200ml of air. I wonder how much some intake porting, higher duration/lift cams, and perhaps bigger valves could do for it.
My end goal is ~180hp to the wheels naturally aspirated, with at least some attempt at retaining a bit of street-friendliness. Do you think a 7age setup would open up significantly more with a better flowing head? Really debating which I should do. Would be great to see further testing of getting more power from the 7age!
Always love your videos, thanks for documenting all this testing that you do!
my advice is spend all the money on the head and getting the bolt ons right. its what will limit the power. 7a bottom end isnt going to help much, unless you want to make the power at lower rpm. the "turd" head i swapped onto it, is ported to about as much as you can do on stock valves. The head that came off it wasn't stock either, had chamber work and the throats/bowls opened up. thats why there wasnt a huge gain swapping heads. bigger cams and big valve head would help, but will also make more power on the 4a.
@@Garage4age Thanks for the info. Yeah I'd like to make power a bit lower down than a 4age build and with a bit more torque, to have it a little nicer for street driving. Another factor is that my 4a is one of the early bigports with the 3 rib block, so revving really high may not be feasible without damaging things. The crank girdle that MRP sells might help remedy that, though. Or I could try to source a later year 4a block. Lots to consider until I truly nail down the plan for the build.
@@watsittooya2863 just remember 7a wont instantly mean it makes more off the bottom. both suffer from the same thing. soon as put some decent cams in them, they become very sensitive to intake an exhaust tuning. a well setup 4a will make more everywhere over a poorly setup 7a. this video is a pretty good example ruclips.net/video/QTEk6rycrTY/видео.html
@@Garage4age Thanks for the pointers, I'll continue to do research and make sure my build is well thought out. Appreciate the replies, cheers.
Guys, pay attention to the measuring torque scale. It is completely out of the norm.
Do you think it could be a bottom end issue like when you made the rods longer it had higher rpm power and now there shorter with the longer stroke
only the frankenturd has long rods. the others are stock 4a blocks and rod lengths. the rod ratio on the 7a is only a little worse than the 4a. but yeah the 7a naturally will have more losses and less willing to rev due to the stroke.
Dat 225hp 10,000rpm monster.
Sounds orgasmic
I woud love to see you work whit a 2zz-ge
Would love to see what it takes to get the 7A power band extended...and making some good torque at/above 7K.
Head setup like on the good engine would get it going. but still not sold on it being worth it.
For sure. A lot of similar capacity engines (1.8vvc, b18) have larger intake and exhaust valves (larger than formula Atlantic spec) and in VTECs case, also more lift under the curve thanks in part to rockers. I'm super keen to see how big inlet valves you can go on the 4age head...33mm? 34mm? equally for the 7A and the 4A....and what it would gain....
What about 20v?
20v is junk
@@garage4k989 really? i'm still learning about these lil toyota motors and would be keen to hear why .
What about 3sge with similar specs to the good 4a?
loved the low down torque of the long rod 7A 1800cc motor... cause its all about the torque curve in real life..
Would be interesting to see if you could develop a moveable trumpet stack based on RPM on the fly (controlled via ECU like Emtron Australia ((ask for Ben,)) Maybe they are interested in "loaning you a KV8 for the task!) so you can flatten the dips in the RPM range. Thank you for doing all this real world work! It shows people that there are a lot of myths out there without basis.. As you may know great working cams are custom build to the specific head flow parameters.. So off the shelf cams can be OK but not great if you've done any kind of flow work done.
I've looked into the variable length trumpet thing. even made a poor working setup probably 15 years ago. The only way it would be of benefit would be extending out longer than what currently have. which wont package.
what's with the 3A-U name on the head?
1600 was always the winner
Do both the 4age 16v heads have the spec spec in terms of head with flow, port, valves etc?
Black and blue graph, the only thing that's different is the bottom end. Its the actual same head (turd head) and bolt on's. They obviously weren't back to back runs, some time apart, so maybe a few kw either way on each engine. 1600 all day
Hey man, what do you think of factory Toyota piston rings? Do you use new factory ones when you rebuild your engines? Is there a better aftermaket option like Mahle rings or anything better?
use genuine or npr (i think they may make the toyota ones). dont use acl have had problems with them. i haven't tried any others, other than what comes with aftermarket pistons
@@Garage4ageCheers, I thought Mahle might be good because they use them on Mercedes and I have never seen a Mercedes engine lose compression
Would the 1600 head on the 1800 gained anything from an increase in compression ratio?
Yes. But so would the 1600. They are about same compression. Other than good engine
guess this is why the 7a mod isnt as popular anymore since the stock bottom can do better with less cc's.
Have you seen the CNC ported 4AGE heads that MRP sell? It would be interesting to see how they perform compared to a hand ported one
If Barry wants to send me one i'll test it. but out or my price range. esp when can get the results doing them myself.
@@Garage4age The 7a bottom end needs far bigger cams to make it work compared to the 1600 engine. Once you do that plus the headers also need to be bigger than the 1600cc. We have our 7age 16v Big ports buzzing to 9500rpm no issues with Keflord 193HVA cams on the rally engines and they make 220whp with huge mid range.
Hasselgren in the USA got a 7ag up to 290hp crank with a lot more head work and much bigger cams in a Formula Atlantic. So the 7ag is def worth while you just have to have the correct combination.
@@barrymanon9459 Not saying it cant be done. but most people working to a budget, are better off spending the money on head and bolt ons. you can put what ever bottom end under the head. but not going to work if the head isn't up to it. This one needs more cam yes, but the 1600 will respond well to bigger cams as well. got some dyno sheets i can have a look at? garage4age@gmail.com
Seems like the cylinder head is limiting the power potential. A bigger engine needs more. All the heads are to small for the 7AF. If it works great on a 4ag it needs to be bigger on the larger engine. Bigger valves and higher flowing ports with more cam lift.
yep basically what the video shows.
Did I miss a video on the Good Engine? 168kw is incredible!
I done a bunch of little tweaks here and there. injector timing, vvti etc. managed to get a couple more kw out of it. wasn't really worth making a video on
What can one expect out of an 7age with bigport/tvis? And also, what would be the typical output of an old 1st gen 4afe? Thanks in advance
The head I swapped to is bigport head. Not that it matters since it's modified. A stock bigport head and tvis intake would make a tractor engine. Prob not much better than the 7afe head
@@Garage4age thanks for the info and your time!
Any idea on the compression ratio of the 7A? If it is too low, might explain why there is no substantial power gain, aside from lower revs.
its meant to be 10:8 seems about right looking at the pistons when head was off. so same ballpark as the turd - 10.3, frankenturd 10.8. is using less injector than the other combo's so lines up with what the dyno says
@@Garage4age Thanks for your insight, seems like the gain is not substantial. If one wanted more NA power, it would seem like a 3S swap might be better advised. What do you think?
basically better off using something with a bigger bore, which would naturally have more valve area to work with. Kinda takes away the whole point/attraction of 4age; small high revving engine. going longer stroke just makes a big low revving engine
@@Garage4age Thanks for your insight, and many thanks for all the videos!!
Now try a 2jz ge vvti?
Time to start comp testing each motor ... that 7a looks like half of it comes out the exhaust on every run 😅
Has 180psi in all 4. but yeh that doesn't show everything. it needs a freshen up. the turd engine was worse. ran on 3 at idle
Are your torque stat is correct ? i see there is up to 500nm on the wheels
It's torque at wheels the dyno is measuring
If you talk about, for sample cam 8 deg advance, what do you mean? Do you mean at 8 deg. on camshaft or crankshaft? Sorry, my English is not so good.
crank degrees.
@@Garage4age thanks a lot.
Would 7a combo would benefit from longer intake runners? Improves medium rpm power probably.
Probably. It lost power going shorter. To tune the intake to the rpm it makes peak power, using same reflected wave as the 1600. would be too long to fit in most engine bays.
@@Garage4age interesting.
Does 1.8 likes different cam timing compared to 1.6?
@@tiitsaul9036 I didn't really measure. but seems to be in same ballpark at least.
Love the spike of the 4age 1600 Franken setup, sound so healthy and awesome at the high end
What’s the specs of the setup there?
If you look at my other video's it features in. there is spec list in description
Question!
Do the dei titanium heat wraps around headers - exhaust pipe change anyyyyything performancewise?
hey probably a bit late here, but they are meant to increase exhaust gas temps causing higher exhaust gas velocity due to increased volume, which helps scavenging of gasses. in theory it could increase performance but in practice probably not noticeable. they help lower engine bay temps though by decreasing radiant heat from the manifold which is why most people use them rather than power gains.
Don't worry about the delay, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. If this triggers any kind of test, i'll be there to like it! Saludos from Mexico @@matthewk7037 !!
This hurts because my stock 2JZ GE VVTi made 122kw or 164hp with intake and headers. Yikes.
3L i6 vs 1.8L i4? What's even the point?
bigger cams. so u could say that at 7500 its flowing the same amount of air as the 4age turd at 9000
"not a dead cat" happened before has it ?? 🤣🤣🤣🤣
if you ever get the opportunity from anybody, get your mits on a 9age. 16 or 20 head. Really wanna see what those put down
Its just going to do the same thing. video shows will only make as much power as the head will allow.
@@Garage4age MRP tells me the stroker bottom end makes 10-13% gains on whichever head it runs which has me curious
@@seven7een993 can only flow so much air through the head. Its pretty easy to max 4age head out.
We would like to hear 11000rpm :)
I have a couple questions if you don't mind answering them if you don't want to read the backstory skip to the bottom. So I have a car that needs an engine rebuild, It is currently un-tunable and making it tunable will be a matter of time and money but my piston rings decided to no longer work (assuming that's what happened, it still runs and drives pretty well just haven't taken engine out yet). So now I am going to be rebuilding the engine before I can tune the car which limits my freedom in selecting parts. I am planning on getting off the shelf forged rods and custom ordering the pistons, upgraded hardware and bearings, and for the head I'm gonna send it off to a reputable shop that has motorsports experience for a rebuild.
My questions are on an untuned car (oem ecu and rom) what are the limits of engine modification, if I only use 91 octane or higher am I safe to bump the compression ratio by .5 or 1? And for the cylinder head I plan on using upgraded valvetrain with an oem cam would some light "corrective" porting benefit without throwing my car out of wack, my plan would be to swap the cam for a more aggressive grind and some other supporting mods when I swap to a standalone ecu later down the line. Ideally I would have a standalone ecu first or the financial leeway to do both but I just cant justify that right now so engine takes priority. Also this is a 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse I'm talking about so its a fairly modern computer but still dumb, I know it can "ignore" a lot of stuff.
Thanks, some guy with car
should be fine, haven't done anything with them before but assume its afm/maf? like the evo's? they sort themselves out a little better than map sensor. you could back the base timing off a little and get a afr check if wanted to be safe
@@Garage4age yep its running a maf, the whole engine control system is borrowed from and evo 8 and adapted for a sohc n/a setup, on the a/t cars they used a modified version of the auto transaxle control system from the evo 7 gta. I have an automatic car so my options are finding or making a definition for my cars ecu or going dual ecu, finding a def for my car is impossible and I'm not too interested in decoding xml files so I plan on eventually design a dual ecu setup for my car, my only issue is the oem ecu controlling the transmission might not let me shift past 6000 rpm even if my rev limiter is set higher in the ecu that controls my engine. I might be driving myself up a wall of problems and headaches but I love modifying things and I have my reasons for not just manual swapping and getting an ecu for cheap that has definition files available with no need for treading relatively unknown waters
Honestly neither, I'd rather spend the money on a dyno like you did, and start fiddling later on, 225whp (rivaling Atlantic motors) on chinesium rods says it all, a lot of time on the dyno means you get more out of less.
"BWAOP" 7500 and thats it for rev-range, at least stock 4a is more fun through that same revband 😁
As I suspected this 'long stroke' engine have some problems to make power up to 6000rpm. Friction/inertial looses + not enought flow is probably the problem. Yet I'd like to see a last test with a 'good' big valves head and 300º+ cams. Even so, 7AGE is not that bad for street use... but if you like RPM'S.... 4AGE all the way
I may try some bigger cams in this setup before it comes out. possibly have big valve one i can show in the future. yeah would be a decent street engine. 120kw isn't terrible
@@Garage4age by the way, I know is much work, but have you considered about lightening and balancing the crank/flywheel? It's a fact that a longer stroke crank it is also heavier and might absorb some power, maybe insignificant, but I havent seen yet anyone dyno testing crankshaft weight in the whole internet, and could be interesting. Cheers!!
Would show up more on an inertia dyno, since they work on acceleration of mass. my dyno is braked. so the weight wont show up as much.
So which setup do you like the best, taking power and overall reliability into account?
The good engine wins every time. Ideally would swap to a long rod bottom end for bit more reliability
Dumb question: What about a carburated 7age? Is it doable, realistic?
You'll never get power, responsiveness, fuel efficiency, and reliability all at once in a carb - so don't trouble yourself. It is easy to combine them all in EFI with today's stand alone ECUs.
@@essb00 That's pretty much why EFI is always superior. I was asking about if he has seen a carb 7age since there are a lot of carb 4age
Doesn't DK's 7age make 232hp or something? Then again it also revs very high.
If you look at their dyno runs in the fuse test video. they are quoting engine power. can see when they pull up the graph its 172ps at the wheels in blue and 215ps at engine (red). with a 48ps drive line loss (green). which seems crazy high. so yeah its not actually making much more than the 7a in this vid.
@@Garage4age Crazy! Didn't remember that. So your 4age is extremely powerful then! wow!
👍
Can the 7a rev higher?
It can, but power is falling off on this setup. so no point
I'm baffled. I was expecting more. How much compression ratio does the 7Age have?
It shows really how good your good engine is.
about 10.8:1 so about the same as the turd.
How about the 7a with 13:1?
@@williamscott7125 another 5kw if lucky
I thought compression equals torque, torque x rpm equals power
@@marioblackett6539 cylinder fill or volumetric efficiency is directly related torque. more compression will use said cylinder fill more efficiently, and gain a little power. long as the fuel used is stable enough not to cause knock.
That 7a 7,4k redline sounds bog lazy compared to the 9,4k+ of the 4a 's 😅🥴😏
bruh, in my country,
1600cc doing almost 200HP is sickness!!!!
225hp N/A 4age wow
How did you get the blacktop throttles to 52mm?
They are bmw throttles
@@Garage4age e92?
@@stephenwever yeah. bit of a pain to get close enough together for 4age head. but doable
@@Garage4age thanks for the heads up currently building a 7age 20v ported head stock bt cam 12.2 cr bottom end was contemplating which induction setup i would use so now its between the bmw throttle or cut up a skunk2 ultra b18 intake to fit
So what's the reason for the missing KW? Compression ratio?
same compression as turd engines. combustion chamber different shape and the likes due to different pistons. more losses in the longer stroke engine etc. its only 6kw difference
@@Garage4age It should be the same power except in lower RPM. Friction of the piston I don't think is that high to make that much difference. Maybe higher blow by?
Will be some in the intake length tuning also. There is a tuning peak at around where the 7a makes peak power. But to pull the stronger one down the rpm range the intake probably out the bonnet
@@Garage4age Oh yes that's it. That again reminds of how every part of an engine must work together.
Yeah, i may try a longer intake on it. but is kinda another hit against the lower revving engine. as the the length needed to get best power at the lower rpm. Isn't going to happen in most engine bays
You need a 20v head to make more power
Modified 16v will make more
The logical follow-up to this video is obviously the subject of the mythical 9A-GE. An engine that shouldn't exist yet it does.
9a would probably be good in a forklift or tractor. asking way too much from the 4age head imo
What car is this?
toyota starlet kp60
ok power aside. What gives the best chop 😂🤘🏽
What would this be in American horsepower and torque?
950000 of each. American figures are always way higher than the rest of the world haha
@@mattteee2973 95000 what? Would it be around 150 rear wheel hp, 200, 250, 300? just curious.
1hp is .75kw. 1lb foot is 1.33nm
4age is the only real option... No point in going 7a because you may as well just go 3sge red or black top beams if displacement is what is needed
not entirely true, the stock 7a crank is miles stronger than the 4a crank making the 1.8 block ideal for a boosted frankenstein build (look up RollaChriz). of course it wont give you as much torque as a 3sge but it is a solid build if you don't want to deal with a whole platform swap like me lol (aw11 owner)
@@jacobascher4052 yip I hear you on whole platform swap thing... Especially when certs are needed 😂😂
@@jacobascher4052 did that guy have the 7a turbo in a blue levin fwd
@@nigelsmith7366I'm assuming you're referring to 0GRIP, Barry Manons AE92. That runs a turbo 9AGE.
@@ryanjess5111 yeah bro that's the one 👍👍that was a nice car
If you bump compression up that 1800 bottom end will come alive.
its the same as the other ones. other than the "good engine"
mental
So far they seem like more work than they are worth
me looking at this with my 7a thinking i was cool.
shit.
The "good engine" is starting to sound like a sport bike
Hi!
hello
not enough praise.
10000 ? crikey ❤
bruh 7A was meant for more torque less top end power, if it's power you want to do a 9AGE
9a is just a 7a stroker. will pull the rpm down even more than a 7a. if you want a 2L engine buy a beams or a k20
4A has stroke of 77mm, at 10krpm, mean piston speed is ~25.6m/s. 7A has stroke of 85.5mm and for same mean piston speed, max rpm would be ~9000. It's a linear relationship- by increasing displacement with stroke, you exchange displacement for max rpm. If you geared it to compensate, it would initially seem like they'd be basically equal. The longer stroke/lower revving engine does have an advantage though- inertia/resonance intake and exhaust tuning doesn't have to accommodate as wide a range with a lower rpm engine. Therefore, your average torque across the whole rpm range will be higher than the lower displacement higher rpm engine. This should give better overall performance, even if peak power stays the same. Also, lower rpm means lower frictional losses in bearings of the same size. If you built the 7A the same as the 'good' engine and made the final drive ratio ~11% taller, it would perform better overall.
The 4AGE is superior
Thanks to Yamaha
Has Toyota actually made a good engine without Yamaha?
1UZ-FE
Toyota don't build engines.
Yes they do build engines but they’re just not very good a designing them especially recently
why your engine makes so many oil smoke? Is it your secret to make more power, hahaahha?
smokey 4age's make the most power haha. the Turd engines were build from old junk laying around the shed. the 7a could go a freshen up too. just watch the last clip, no smoke.
Give that 1800cc a better camshaft and it will BLAST!
There's gotta be more in it than that m8!
Pretty much all the top N2 guys cop the weight penalty to run some sort of stroker crank nowadays.
It will make more. but kinda wasn't the point of this video
What is this smoke? Excess fuel ??
Rings bit tired. Fuel ratio is correct. The turd engine was even more worn out and smokey