JRB DSRT Method: Reintroduction and Advantages
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2024
- The JRB DSRT (Doubled Stationary Rope Technique) is a novel rope climbing technique designed for saddle hunters, rope climbers, tree climbers, etc. This video contains a reintroduction and demonstration climb and a discussion of the advantages over techniques such as MRS (DRT/DdRT) and SRT/SRS. The original introduction was in the following video: • Introducing the JRB DS...
Please review the description and videos on the Playlist to understand the method fully: • JRB DSRT
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DISCLAIMER: Viewers assume responsibility for their own safety. This video is provided for demonstrational and informational purposes only, and is not considered advice nor instruction. Climbing and related knot tying activities are dangerous and should be performed only with appropriate training, supervision and protective equipment. The author disclaims responsibility for the clarity, comprehensiveness and accuracy of the content, as well as all liability for accidents or injuries incurred. - JRB Tree Climbing LLC
#jrbtreeclimbing #treeclimbing #saddlehunting #arborist #climbing #knots #srt #ropeclimbing #deerhunting #deer
Great video, as a beginner climber/hunter I find this very intriguing. This system is a very solid and minimalist, love it.
2 things about being 50. 1st is u r old enough to know better. 2nd thing is efficiency is the only way. When u fill up your gas tank u only have so many rides in u. When it comes to both redundancy & ease of use & flexibility of a system the JRB method is a real no brainer. I wouldn’t feel comfortable either way being 30 feet up on 1 rope or the friction of pulling a rope over a branch for 30 feet. The wear & tear on your body using MRS is cutting down on the amount of rides. Thanks for the best of both worlds which is more like creating a whole new universe.😄
amazing content. so happy I found this.
You are the man John ! Best climbing system I've ever used for hunting. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent demonstration from start to finish. One system with many additional variations, methods and applications to climb any safe tree in the woods
Awesome summary, John.
Thanks for doing this!
It might not be a bad idea to carry or attach an extra carabiner for that Munter rappel. That way you could tie it in before removing your back up. Transfers are the most dangerous part of climbing so it doesn't make sense to remove your redundancy during that!
In my opinion, every serious saddle hunter should be familiar and capable with DSRT, SRT and MRS. They are not that different from each other and as you said, you can even use the same friction hitches just fine tune the turns. DSRT and SRT should be used the most and which one depends on the trees around you.
DSRT is good when you can isolate a branch or a crotch or two. SRT is good for those trees that don't have any suitable branches or crotches. Open ended MRS is good for rigging presets on trees where isolation from ground is very hard as together with a lanyard you can easily navigate around branches and get to the target branch or crotch isolating it as you climb. MRS should only really be used for rigging as it does wear your rope more and using it multiple times on the same spot may damage the tree.
My rule of thumb is:
Take your normal or ideal hunting height. Multiply that by two and add 5 meters (around 16 feet). That's the length of your lifeline. Double that value and that's the length of your throw line, which will double up as a hauling/pulling rope if needed.
This way you can climb DSRT and MRS to your ideal hunting height and SRT with the full length of your rope on those rare spots where you want to climb higher than what you were prepared for.
Excellent post. I agree on all but some details. For example, there are hours between the climb and the rappel... if our friction hitches are holding, they aren't going to stop holding in the seconds that it takes to put in a munter and if that was a concern, there's nothing stopping us from putting in the munter under the Garda, then remove the Garda and any small amount of slack before rappel. See the Rope page for my rope and diameter and length recommendations.
jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/rope/
John great job of explaining as usual and I learned a lot in this video. One thing I wonder and would suggest. Put an alpine butterfly on one side of the rope and thread the other end through it. Then you have a canopy anchor that can release simply by pulling the end that has the butterfly. So now one side is completely secure but one side is less secure. But if you dont tie off, each side is less secure. To help with this, you can add a biner to the butterfly and add a second climbing rope of a different color to that biner. The line with the butterfly just hangs and is not to be used for climbing but only for retrieval. So the new rope is still not secure but at least it is marked by its color. Of course this is only an issue if a mistake is made, as in a fall, and the guy tries grabbing a single line instead of both lines. Since I cannot throw a ball too high, I plan to use this method along with the JRB hitch climbing method to get high enough to toss a ball over a higher bow.
thanks again.
Thx. Regarding the Butterfly idea, I predict that if we actually try to rig that up, there will be some issues. We either need to get our pretied friction hitch to pass through a loop or we need more rope and a lot of sliding. We have to ask ourselves what failure we are mitigating before we take that on. We already have a backup for our friction hitches. One of the things I was trying to avoid was the need for an anchor or tying any knots, and minimal sliding of them from their last position. Clip in and climb.
@@jrbtc yes you are right. it does add complications and additional rope. and yes you would have to tie on the prusik on one side of the rope After securing the line. I will have to try it your way to see if there is even an issue. BTW I re-reviewed the "Introducing the JRB Hitch Climbing System" and I can tell you it is the greatest thing that I have ever seen, and I am looking at this from an arborist standpoint. It solves all my problems getting around a large branch. I will start with that method and work my way up to this one. So I am months away from trying this one. but I cannot thank you enough for thinking out side the box and presenting your findings to us. many thanks.
I really want to learn That method ❤!
No metal clanking. Awesome video idea. No sticks could easily just carry a lightweight hang on n use it
What a great channel! Thank you so much!
Appreciate that. We have a lot of stuff in the works. Hope it helps ya!
I’ve been saddle hunting for years now and am on my 3rd year of rope access. I’m going to try out you system next year. I want to compare it to srt and see what works better for me.
Absolutely Kevin, let me know if ya have questions. There are not many non mechanical SRT options around that are effective. Before devising the JRB Ascender Hitch, I used my Double Michoacán on an SRT system. The hassle was rigging up the canopy anchor and maintaining my requirement that we don't need to tie any knots at the tree. It can be done, but its just a hassle. With this method, as soon as the one side of the rope comes down off the crotch, i simply clip in and climb. I also love using these thinner 8mm ropes where i prefer something thicker for SRT. Its not just a matter of strength; It's also the surface area of contact, and i like to try everything i do on soaking wet ropes too. With this method, i have climbed and hunted in a deluge with no concerns.
Hello friend ,tank You for video
Recently was suggested I check out your channel for saddle
hunting and wow- amazing content and clear instruction! The only thing I can see having trouble with it getting the one hitch stuck in the crotch when pulling the rope up and over. Any tips on that? Does that introduce opportunities to mess up the JRB ascender hitch?
When we pull the rope into the tree, both the rope end and the loop on the friction hitch are tied to the paracord or throwline. And so the friction hitch cant get stuck up there floating around on the rope up in the crotch. However, it can be possible for the friction hitch to have trouble passing through the crotch, particularly if it is narrow or has some sharp bark impediments. It's been a few years since that has happened to me, but it's possible and the likelihood goes up with the diameter of the rope and cord. For the doubled rope system, this is one of the reasons that the (newer) Agile Hitch has advantages over the JRB Ascender. Simply put, if we're having trouble, just bring down the rope, remove the Agile Hitch, rig the rope, and put it back on. It's so easy to tie. I will do a video soon on building a system with the Agile and point this detail out!
@@jrbtc thanks for the quick reply! I missed the simple fact of tying the para cord to the hitch as well. I realized in the binge watching of the videos you have evolved the system somewhat and I’m still catching up to speed. This has been really eye opening and encouraging me to take that first step into saddle hunting that I’ve been overwhelmed with prior. Thank you for all the resources. I look forward to catching up on the latest content and systems and making a shopping list accordingly.
I need to understand this further...I'm interested
Realize that this video is on a PLAYLIST for the JRB (Doubled Rope) Climbing Method. The Method has evolved since the first video. Although it's advisable that you watch the entire playlist, you can refer to info on the website to help you understand what is current.
jrbtreeclimbing.com/
If you cant tie a knot, tie alot till you can knots
A well rounded education you have provided me. My favorite is the JRB Hitch, plus JRB Ascender, Plus Garda Footloop, using the Munter To repel down. I am still trying to figure out how you get to the top of the tree to then tie the JRB Hitch, is the JRB Hitch only used on the descent?
A JRB hitch is not used in the JRB Climbing Method. But it can be used by stick climbers who rappel down.
Question …. Which variation of the ascender hitch would grab and be more difficult to ascend with on 8 mm climbing rope and 6mm hitch rope, 5-2-3 or the 4-2-3? Seems to me the 4-2-3 holds just as strong but will move with less difficulty. What have you found in your experience? When I climbed with the 5-2-3 hitches self tended with a neck strap it took quite a bit of force and was rather uncomfortable so I retied my hitches to the 4-2-3. I am still experiencing awkwardness in descent and disconnect the neck strap hitches on the way down. I need to do some more practice and experimentation. But I definitely itely like having the redundant set of hitches on the neck strap especially for getting past limbs on up into the tree , that is great !
It could vary based on the cord stiffness and so its really up to you. The neckstrap idea had little appeal and so i am promoting that we learn the technique demonstrated here: shove those hitches up without pause.