Thank you for sharing. I started hunting in a saddle last year and I had concerns about my tether slipping when unweighted. These are all great option to remedy that. Thanks again
Great work ! Thank you . I will be using the running JRB with the 12’ adjustable pole to set it. I usually walk with a staff/ walking stick. I will use the adjustable pole instead. You are way ahead of the curve.
I sincerely appreciate your comments. True story: amongst all the nonsense on social media, I truly feel that something unique is happening here: I have been drawn out of hiding, encouraged to share and for the right reasons, and my own progress has become accelerated by the questions and support. And in the end, I have two options with my own work: 1. Hold it. 2. Share it. Make it public as soon as prudent. And let it find it's way. I did #1 for 12 years. #2 feels better. I feel that the work I am doing will outlive me. This comment will outlive me. And if I make a dollar someday, that's fine, but that's not the goal. Getting your comment is the goal. So thanks.
@takyc7883 That's high praise, but I do appreciate it. And at the end of the video, I told ya I was working on another one, and that's the MAVERICK HITCH. You're gonna wanna check out those vids too. Cheers
I just order 50’ of sterling htp and plan to set it up for Jrb hitch climbing. Plan to use a shooting stick to advance the tether. I have watched all your videos and am excited to try this out. My first try saddle hunting. You mentioned in your hitch climbing video you tied the release line with a buffalo hitch on an overhand knot. I was hoping you would show what that looked like on this video. Great work and awesome content that you are putting out. Your passion is reflected in your openness to help hunters be safe and find better safer way to climb. Keep up the great work.
I'm not exactly sure which comment of mine you are referring to. And so please let me know your question. Are you asking how to attach a retrieval line to a jrb cinch? If so, there are a couple of options. One is to take a loop not on the end of your retrieval line and put it inside the carabiner. Another option is to attach your retrieval line right where I grabbed it in this video on the length of cord or rope between the carabiner and the Buffalo hitch
This video was very helpful in that it gave me a good overview. Before, I was going through trying to find all your hitches and it was getting confusing.
Nice summary, I’m going with the cinch, triple cinch system, that way when I move one , the other two others are cinched tight, lowest has a foot loop, second middle cinch is on my short lower bridge with a jrb ascender hitch up tight to the cinch and easily adjusted, top cinch has two jrb ascender hitches one closest to the cinch has my top bridge and the other lower ascender hitch has been a leg loop. I will also use the basic jrb climbing system and method after picking our a preferred hunting spot and setting a paracord. Little trees , big trees, new unknown area or known I can adapt. Thanks for the education. Oh, you have shown using a pvc piece to break a tight hitch to allow it to be move, for the rope to pass through.. Well, I have found that with a short piece of rubber hose between two hitches that piece makes it easy to adjust the upper hitch up as well as the lower hitch down, necessary as you move up or down the tree with tree diameter changing.
Hi, outstanding upload. My wife's brother is a world famous mountain guide and I have been thinking of asking him about options for saddle hunting, now not needed! One question: why are many folks repelling down rather than just reversing the ascent? Does it save a lot of time? Safer? I enjoy minimizing weight and gear on walks in so I am loathe to create a need for more rope unless it is a substantial improvement. Thank you once again for a top shelf upload.
1. Thanks. 2. It's an excellent question. My belief is simply lack of information and education. Saddle Hunters generally have some prior experience at getting in a tree and that involved feet on a rigid structure such as a ladder, stick or step. Since we were kids, we climbed trees and our brain equates stability with strength, but they are different. Our climbing rope has an Incredible strength and holds us in the only Dimension which is necessary and that is vertical, the direction in which gravity operates. It takes some maturity, time, and discipline to understand that we can be safe on a swinging rope. And as we progress, we realize that these things that we had our feet on are not rated at a strength level which would be necessary for true life safety. Meanwhile, all the other stuff is being sold and we are buying it. Please watch the video on my Ten Rules for a Safe Climbing System.
It's good idea to ask wife's brother. He gives you understanding of dynamic and static ropes, fall factor and some other main rope access concepts. After you will never ask this Q again and may be this knowledge will save your life once.
I appreciate your comment. We think we are safe until we realize that we're not! My primary goal is to help my hunting Brotherhood become more safe and successful. I will never know what accidents I helped to prevent because they will not have transpired. And so I motivate myself with comments like yours and knowing that useful information won't be kept secret. Friends are talking to friends and that's a good thing
On that saddle hunters hitch, you could use something called a "fiddle stick" and have the stick attached to some small 5mm cord or even paracord...This makes it releasable after a rappel. The stick will NOT come out if the rappel is weighted, that's a good thing. But will easily come out un weighted
Thx for the comment. When I introduced the SHH, one of the tests i performed was a cyclic loading test, where I apply a load, then unload, then whip the rope, then repeat. I found the use of a straight toggle ( a pin or fiddlestick ) to be inadequately stable. In real applications, its typical for a saddle hunter to take weight off their tether and reapply as they shift from sitting to standing. I basically don't want to give you any tools which don't meet my requirements for all of strength, stability and fault tolerance.
@@jrbtc Yes to be using it and staying in position the carabiner works great. I just was talking about using it to come down and to retrieve it afterwards.
I am new and I am starting out in this discipline, your videos seem excellent to me, I wanted to ask you: I see that you recommend steel carabiners in one of the options, but in another you use the ring combined with the carabiner, the material is aluminum, which Can you tell me about it?
I just tie an alpine butterfly at the half way point in my rope. 45' of rope let's me set my tether at 20'. Then you can pull on the non loaded end to retrieve the rope, works like a charm to break open the hitch and retrieve. Also use it as a pull line to pull up my bow or rifle. I don't tie any knots in the field unless I am bored. I don't worry about hooking up any rappels because it's already hooked up when I leave the ground, when I hunt and when I come down. I'm believe having a seperate retrieval line is more dangerous than the possibility of using the wrong end of my rope. Which is still not very dangerous but simplicity and safety go hand in hand
Absolutely, that's a great technique. But it's used in conjunction with a throwball, needs a tree crotch and typically used by SRT climbers. This video is for anchors which are manually set, no crotch, no throwball and can be used by those who use climbing sticks.
@@jrbtc I also do keep a retrieval line in the case I decide to hunt higher than 20' so I could go up to 40'. I've never used it though, 20' is good for me
There's literally a hundred ways we can do that. I have the end of my rope equipped with this end loop. It's always there and like part of the Rope. And so I just clipped my retrieval line to it. And I don't need to tie anything. ruclips.net/video/XJfGZD5Cu0s/видео.htmlsi=w9eRSJVZJl0oH6Zi
Saddle hunters who rappel carry a retrieval cord which is mentioned in the video. When it's time to rappel, a retrieval cord is attached to the release mechanism. That could be paracord or a utility cord or whatever you prefer. It obviously needs to be long enough for your rappel height.
@jrbtc sorry, I didn't understand the whole process. I'm new to climbing. I'm trying to learn as much as possible and enjoyed your video, thanks for clarification.
I used this all season and loved it, thank you for sharing this technique. Which video of you shows the pole advance up the tree. I watched it once and now can’t find it. Thanks
Because of the unsafe release line, I do not like it. I prefer to use for the last rappel two lines at a tuber and put the rope above a thick branch. .
I don't know which of the six options you're referring to. Probably the JRB Hitch? How are you able to release it under load? It is self jamming under load. And so how would you have gotten your weight off your load side and onto the release side?
The rope I am using in the first two examples is the sewn tether that came with my Aerohunter Flex Saddle, which I purchased in mid 2020. I am not aware of the brand. I am confident (due to my trust in that reputable supplier) that it is extremely rugged and strong.
For my own personal use, I would not use nor recommend aluminum. Steel is much stronger. The Kong DNA model I showed is steel, but a double action, not triple action and triple is preferable. My personal preference for an anchor is a JRB hitch or Running JRB Hitch.
When the accessory cord is used as retrieval/cinching is it weight bearing? In my mind it is not weight bearing, but really just wandering if 550 cord would be acceptable
Paracord will work but it stretches and you would prefer something more static like a short length of accessory cord, say 5mm. It will last forever and is less prone to tangles. And more substantial to grab
On the JRB Cinch can you use a aluminum carabiner or does it have to be steel? Same question with the rappel ring does it need to be steel? Also where a good place to purchase the rappel ring?
I use Aluminum Rings and (thick bodied, rugged) Aluminum Carabiners in JRB Cinch for my non-slack climbing applications. All Saddle Hunters should climb on minimum slack, not more than s few inches, simply because hunting saddles are not fall arrest devices. Yes, steel rings and Carabiners are going to provide even greater strength and are advisable if your using this for applications which could recieve exorbitant loads such as rigging or fall arrest anchors. You can find options here, and everything is available at RnA a 10% discount using JRB10 coupon code: www.rocknarbor.com/product-category/arborist-safety/rigging-arborist-safety/hardware-arborist-safety/
@@IRONHQ your appreciation means a LOT to me. The JRB Cinch concept was developed based on motivation and questions from others. My channel started out as me just showing how I climb. But the questions, appreciation and support is just motivating me.
It's not clear what you're saying. Cost is not the issue... what is the issue? Which of the 6 retrievable anchors are you commenting on? or are you suggesting an alternative?
A simple bowline can be tied as an eye around the load side of the rope. A retrieval line must be used with any of these, that line can be easily tied onto that bowline as well. You can tie the eye any size you want to get it tight or not. The bowline is very easy and well known and very easy to untie after, with very little extra rope needed. I have been using some of your knots last year and they do work well, but sometimes it seems like coming up with newer and more complicated knots for the purpose of making new knots. This seems like a good example.
@dichotomousblue Thx for clarifying. This video shows options. We choose the one that works for us and that we are comfortable configuring. Each individual has different tastes and thats fine. What's not fineis the ones climbing without a cinched tie in. Too many are climbing with a Linemans or nothing at all. You like #1, the Running Loop, and thats fine. Be aware that the Bowline and Running Bowline are well known but are no longer recommended for life safety applications. It's also commonly mistied. The disadvantages are that 1. Its more difficult to retrieve and 2. We need add some stability to it to ensure it doesn't fall if the climber puts slack in the system.
Is there any reason not to use a soft toggle with the JRB cinch? My preference would be not to have to pull the entire rope through the ring to get it off the tree
The JRB Cinch relies on the rigid structure of a rappel ring and a hard toggle such as a carabiner. Replacing it with a soft toggle wouldn't be structurally sound. Replacing the carabiner with a rigid pin or shaft would work in theory, but would be easily destabilized if load was removed and therefore can't be recommended.
NOT an alpine butterfly at 1:09 looks like a figure 8. alpine butterfly is more of a mid line not with load on the two working ends (no standing end being it is midline) and load on the loop.
I sincerely appreciate having an educated audience with such attention to detail. I watched the clip and understand why you say it looked like a Figure 8, but I assure you it was an AB. Of course, for purposes of the demonstration, any secure end loop would suffice.
I have started using the running bowline knot as my tree tether/repel line. It is simple, pulls down easily and is so light it holds well enough to the tree. Any thoughts about this application? Thanks for your videos. You are an amazing knots-man. I enjoy learning new knots.
@@tomzygmunt6891 amongst arborists, the running Bowline is well regarded, particularly for lowering and rigging branches. But according to my experience and research, for a life safety application, we should use something more secure. You can transform your Bowline into a Scott's Locked Bowline pretty easily. Rock climbers use a Figure 8 end loop, another excellent choice. I am not saying that you're going to have a problem. I'm saying you deserve something better.
Well there are easier and more elegant ways of doing it then all of these "options". Between Military, Work, and rec climbing none of these would be practical or useful to me.
I chose these options for the requirements of a saddle hunter, (who typically use climbing sticks), not Military or Arborist applications. If there are better options, I would have expected that the name(s) of your preferred anchor(s) would be in your comment. (Obviously, the use of a throwball is not an option for a stick climber.)
Your content is the best on RUclips IMO. Thank you!
Brad, Thats a high compliment and greatly appreciated. Thx. Its also motivation and I do have a lot more to show you.
Thank you for sharing. I started hunting in a saddle last year and I had concerns about my tether slipping when unweighted. These are all great option to remedy that. Thanks again
...WOW!!! THANKS, FOR THESE GREAT DOMONSTRATIONS, AND EXPLANATIONS!
You are welcome and thanks for the comment. Since I made this video, I have been testing out a couple more options and will show you those soon
“If you’re not comfortable tying it then you shouldn’t be using it” words to live by ❤ 💯
Very innovative hitches for the climbing community.
JRB: Elecellent info. I've been looking a long time for this info. Thanks for posting.
Wow great information! New favorite channel! Thanks
Welcome to the channel. Make sure you check out the Maverick hitch too. It was not released yet when this video was published.
Great work ! Thank you .
I will be using the running JRB with the 12’ adjustable pole to set it.
I usually walk with a staff/ walking stick.
I will use the adjustable pole instead.
You are way ahead of the curve.
I sincerely appreciate your comments. True story: amongst all the nonsense on social media, I truly feel that something unique is happening here: I have been drawn out of hiding, encouraged to share and for the right reasons, and my own progress has become accelerated by the questions and support. And in the end, I have two options with my own work: 1. Hold it. 2. Share it. Make it public as soon as prudent. And let it find it's way.
I did #1 for 12 years. #2 feels better. I feel that the work I am doing will outlive me. This comment will outlive me. And if I make a dollar someday, that's fine, but that's not the goal. Getting your comment is the goal. So thanks.
whoever came up with this is a genius
@takyc7883 That's high praise, but I do appreciate it. And at the end of the video, I told ya I was working on another one, and that's the MAVERICK HITCH. You're gonna wanna check out those vids too. Cheers
I just order 50’ of sterling htp and plan to set it up for Jrb hitch climbing. Plan to use a shooting stick to advance the tether. I have watched all your videos and am excited to try this out. My first try saddle hunting. You mentioned in your hitch climbing video you tied the release line with a buffalo hitch on an overhand knot. I was hoping you would show what that looked like on this video. Great work and awesome content that you are putting out. Your passion is reflected in your openness to help hunters be safe and find better safer way to climb. Keep up the great work.
I'm not exactly sure which comment of mine you are referring to. And so please let me know your question. Are you asking how to attach a retrieval line to a jrb cinch? If so, there are a couple of options. One is to take a loop not on the end of your retrieval line and put it inside the carabiner. Another option is to attach your retrieval line right where I grabbed it in this video on the length of cord or rope between the carabiner and the Buffalo hitch
Option one is my favorite and i will be using this method this season.
Excellent, I'm glad I could help you out.
This video was very helpful in that it gave me a good overview. Before, I was going through trying to find all your hitches and it was getting confusing.
The channel is organized by Playlists. That should help you find what you are looking for. Open a Playlist, then locate the video
Where you were using a steel carabiner ,I use a notch quickie with a snug fitting rubber disk/grommet.
I really like the highwaymens hitch example.
Great Quality and very informative Thank you
That's appreciated. Happy holidays.
You are my knot guru!
@@brentsmith8075 happy to be helping. Cheers
absolutely outstanding ! so helpful ! big thank you
Nice summary, I’m going with the cinch, triple cinch system, that way when I move one , the other two others are cinched tight, lowest has a foot loop, second middle cinch is on my short lower bridge with a jrb ascender hitch up tight to the cinch and easily adjusted, top cinch has two jrb ascender hitches one closest to the cinch has my top bridge and the other lower ascender hitch has been a leg loop. I will also use the basic jrb climbing system and method after picking our a preferred hunting spot and setting a paracord. Little trees , big trees, new unknown area or known I can adapt. Thanks for the education. Oh, you have shown using a pvc piece to break a tight hitch to allow it to be move, for the rope to pass through.. Well, I have found that with a short piece of rubber hose between two hitches that piece makes it easy to adjust the upper hitch up as well as the lower hitch down, necessary as you move up or down the tree with tree diameter changing.
Ropes and knots are awesome. First class amateur is a rope god in case anyone doesn’t know his vidjas
I am not a tree climber.
This is cool and well done.
Awesome information! Thanks for sharing! 👍🏼
Appreciate that and happy to help.
Hi, outstanding upload. My wife's brother is a world famous mountain guide and I have been thinking of asking him about options for saddle hunting, now not needed! One question: why are many folks repelling down rather than just reversing the ascent? Does it save a lot of time? Safer? I enjoy minimizing weight and gear on walks in so I am loathe to create a need for more rope unless it is a substantial improvement. Thank you once again for a top shelf upload.
1. Thanks. 2. It's an excellent question. My belief is simply lack of information and education. Saddle Hunters generally have some prior experience at getting in a tree and that involved feet on a rigid structure such as a ladder, stick or step. Since we were kids, we climbed trees and our brain equates stability with strength, but they are different. Our climbing rope has an Incredible strength and holds us in the only Dimension which is necessary and that is vertical, the direction in which gravity operates. It takes some maturity, time, and discipline to understand that we can be safe on a swinging rope. And as we progress, we realize that these things that we had our feet on are not rated at a strength level which would be necessary for true life safety. Meanwhile, all the other stuff is being sold and we are buying it. Please watch the video on my Ten Rules for a Safe Climbing System.
It's good idea to ask wife's brother. He gives you understanding of dynamic and static ropes, fall factor and some other main rope access concepts. After you will never ask this Q again and may be this knowledge will save your life once.
Changed my life. I hunt safer now thank you.
I appreciate your comment. We think we are safe until we realize that we're not! My primary goal is to help my hunting Brotherhood become more safe and successful. I will never know what accidents I helped to prevent because they will not have transpired. And so I motivate myself with comments like yours and knowing that useful information won't be kept secret. Friends are talking to friends and that's a good thing
On that saddle hunters hitch, you could use something called a "fiddle stick" and have the stick attached to some small 5mm cord or even paracord...This makes it releasable after a rappel. The stick will NOT come out if the rappel is weighted, that's a good thing. But will easily come out un weighted
Thx for the comment. When I introduced the SHH, one of the tests i performed was a cyclic loading test, where I apply a load, then unload, then whip the rope, then repeat. I found the use of a straight toggle ( a pin or fiddlestick ) to be inadequately stable. In real applications, its typical for a saddle hunter to take weight off their tether and reapply as they shift from sitting to standing. I basically don't want to give you any tools which don't meet my requirements for all of strength, stability and fault tolerance.
@@jrbtc Yes to be using it and staying in position the carabiner works great. I just was talking about using it to come down and to retrieve it afterwards.
good job👍
I am new and I am starting out in this discipline, your videos seem excellent to me, I wanted to ask you: I see that you recommend steel carabiners in one of the options, but in another you use the ring combined with the carabiner, the material is aluminum, which Can you tell me about it?
All of your questions should be answered on the website.
jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/carabiners/
jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/jrb-cinch/
I think you should tie that scaffold knot behind the knot on the rope for better leverage when pulling your rope down.
Knots are awesome but very hard to see because the position of the camera
There are dedicated videos for tying my knots on the channel. This is just a practical demonstration.
I just tie an alpine butterfly at the half way point in my rope. 45' of rope let's me set my tether at 20'.
Then you can pull on the non loaded end to retrieve the rope, works like a charm to break open the hitch and retrieve. Also use it as a pull line to pull up my bow or rifle.
I don't tie any knots in the field unless I am bored.
I don't worry about hooking up any rappels because it's already hooked up when I leave the ground, when I hunt and when I come down.
I'm believe having a seperate retrieval line is more dangerous than the possibility of using the wrong end of my rope. Which is still not very dangerous but simplicity and safety go hand in hand
Absolutely, that's a great technique. But it's used in conjunction with a throwball, needs a tree crotch and typically used by SRT climbers. This video is for anchors which are manually set, no crotch, no throwball and can be used by those who use climbing sticks.
@@jrbtc I'm one sticking with this setup. I gave up on throwbacks once I realized it makes a bunch of noise and I miss a lot lol.
@@jrbtc I also do keep a retrieval line in the case I decide to hunt higher than 20' so I could go up to 40'. I've never used it though, 20' is good for me
How do you like to attach your retrieval line to the tag end of the running JRB hitch?
There's literally a hundred ways we can do that. I have the end of my rope equipped with this end loop. It's always there and like part of the Rope. And so I just clipped my retrieval line to it. And I don't need to tie anything.
ruclips.net/video/XJfGZD5Cu0s/видео.htmlsi=w9eRSJVZJl0oH6Zi
I don't understand how I'm supposed to grab that 5ft. rope from 150 ft below it. If I'm done repelling?
Saddle hunters who rappel carry a retrieval cord which is mentioned in the video. When it's time to rappel, a retrieval cord is attached to the release mechanism. That could be paracord or a utility cord or whatever you prefer. It obviously needs to be long enough for your rappel height.
@jrbtc sorry, I didn't understand the whole process. I'm new to climbing. I'm trying to learn as much as possible and enjoyed your video, thanks for clarification.
@scottweaver3611 no problem. Watch this for an idea.
ruclips.net/video/KuJNyWTHRvk/видео.htmlsi=eNUL5KawiPLJfHP4
I used this all season and loved it, thank you for sharing this technique. Which video of you shows the pole advance up the tree. I watched it once and now can’t find it. Thanks
There's a basic explanation of it here for the running JRB hitch.
ruclips.net/video/S63q7thZaN4/видео.html
And this one for the JRB Cinch:
ruclips.net/video/mMrM69tfGYA/видео.html
Which one did you use?
Because of the unsafe release line, I do not like it.
I prefer to use for the last rappel two lines at a tuber and put the rope above a thick branch.
.
I don't know which of the six options you're referring to. Probably the JRB Hitch? How are you able to release it under load? It is self jamming under load. And so how would you have gotten your weight off your load side and onto the release side?
Okay, that sounds good... @@jrbtc
Subbed
What brands/products are the 2 brown climbing ropes in the first couple of examples??
The rope I am using in the first two examples is the sewn tether that came with my Aerohunter Flex Saddle, which I purchased in mid 2020. I am not aware of the brand. I am confident (due to my trust in that reputable supplier) that it is extremely rugged and strong.
Would it be safe to use a regular aluminum carabiner or do you need that twisted looking one you showed?
For my own personal use, I would not use nor recommend aluminum. Steel is much stronger. The Kong DNA model I showed is steel, but a double action, not triple action and triple is preferable. My personal preference for an anchor is a JRB hitch or Running JRB Hitch.
When the accessory cord is used as retrieval/cinching is it weight bearing? In my mind it is not weight bearing, but really just wandering if 550 cord would be acceptable
Paracord will work but it stretches and you would prefer something more static like a short length of accessory cord, say 5mm. It will last forever and is less prone to tangles. And more substantial to grab
On the JRB Cinch can you use a aluminum carabiner or does it have to be steel? Same question with the rappel ring does it need to be steel? Also where a good place to purchase the rappel ring?
I use Aluminum Rings and (thick bodied, rugged) Aluminum Carabiners in JRB Cinch for my non-slack climbing applications. All Saddle Hunters should climb on minimum slack, not more than s few inches, simply because hunting saddles are not fall arrest devices. Yes, steel rings and Carabiners are going to provide even greater strength and are advisable if your using this for applications which could recieve exorbitant loads such as rigging or fall arrest anchors. You can find options here, and everything is available at RnA a 10% discount using JRB10 coupon code:
www.rocknarbor.com/product-category/arborist-safety/rigging-arborist-safety/hardware-arborist-safety/
@@jrbtc thank you. I appreciate what you do
@@IRONHQ your appreciation means a LOT to me. The JRB Cinch concept was developed based on motivation and questions from others. My channel started out as me just showing how I climb. But the questions, appreciation and support is just motivating me.
Oring or castration band = $0.03-$1 5' of accesory cord = $5, or likely $30 to get a 30' package.
Cost is not the issue here
It's not clear what you're saying. Cost is not the issue... what is the issue? Which of the 6 retrievable anchors are you commenting on? or are you suggesting an alternative?
A simple bowline can be tied as an eye around the load side of the rope. A retrieval line must be used with any of these, that line can be easily tied onto that bowline as well. You can tie the eye any size you want to get it tight or not. The bowline is very easy and well known and very easy to untie after, with very little extra rope needed.
I have been using some of your knots last year and they do work well, but sometimes it seems like coming up with newer and more complicated knots for the purpose of making new knots. This seems like a good example.
@dichotomousblue Thx for clarifying. This video shows options. We choose the one that works for us and that we are comfortable configuring. Each individual has different tastes and thats fine. What's not fineis the ones climbing without a cinched tie in. Too many are climbing with a Linemans or nothing at all. You like #1, the Running Loop, and thats fine. Be aware that the Bowline and Running Bowline are well known but are no longer recommended for life safety applications. It's also commonly mistied. The disadvantages are that 1. Its more difficult to retrieve and 2. We need add some stability to it to ensure it doesn't fall if the climber puts slack in the system.
Is there any reason not to use a soft toggle with the JRB cinch? My preference would be not to have to pull the entire rope through the ring to get it off the tree
The JRB Cinch relies on the rigid structure of a rappel ring and a hard toggle such as a carabiner. Replacing it with a soft toggle wouldn't be structurally sound. Replacing the carabiner with a rigid pin or shaft would work in theory, but would be easily destabilized if load was removed and therefore can't be recommended.
Use coupon code JRB10 for 10% off purchases at: www.rocknarbor.com/
Dang good vidja dude, felt like I was listening to a professor
NOT an alpine butterfly at 1:09 looks like a figure 8. alpine butterfly is more of a mid line not with load on the two working ends (no standing end being it is midline) and load on the loop.
I sincerely appreciate having an educated audience with such attention to detail. I watched the clip and understand why you say it looked like a Figure 8, but I assure you it was an AB. Of course, for purposes of the demonstration, any secure end loop would suffice.
I have started using the running bowline knot as my tree tether/repel line. It is simple, pulls down easily and is so light it holds well enough to the tree. Any thoughts about this application? Thanks for your videos. You are an amazing knots-man. I enjoy learning new knots.
@@tomzygmunt6891 amongst arborists, the running Bowline is well regarded, particularly for lowering and rigging branches. But according to my experience and research, for a life safety application, we should use something more secure. You can transform your Bowline into a Scott's Locked Bowline pretty easily. Rock climbers use a Figure 8 end loop, another excellent choice. I am not saying that you're going to have a problem. I'm saying you deserve something better.
Well there are easier and more elegant ways of doing it then all of these "options". Between Military, Work, and rec climbing none of these would be practical or useful to me.
I chose these options for the requirements of a saddle hunter, (who typically use climbing sticks), not Military or Arborist applications. If there are better options, I would have expected that the name(s) of your preferred anchor(s) would be in your comment. (Obviously, the use of a throwball is not an option for a stick climber.)
Use coupon code JRB10 for 10% off purchases at www.rocknarbor.com/