If you’re wondering if these sights are visible in daylight… YES they are… I actually almost like these better than my Trijicon night sights on my glock being the tritium inserts are as bright as them in the day and night. If you have the target model, it’s nicer to pull back the hammer as well. If you’re thinking about it, get them!! Also the instal is fairly easy as long as you’re mechanically minded. Just follow this video, be careful, and take your time. Very detailed, thank you for the video!!
I appreciate the compliment, and also providing a brief review for others who are considering these sights. The K6s is a very petite revolver and I think is well suited to being more of a carry piece than a target gun. The fixed night sights with their lower profile pair perfectly with it as far as my tastes go.
Thanks. I’m traditionally a S&W loyalist who is gradually moving towards being a Colt fan, but these Kimbers really lend themselves well to being a carry magnum with carry type sights because of their small frame. They do something the larger magnums don’t do, and should have sights to match.
Thanks. Unfortunately it just makes more financial sense to work in oil and gas then just play with this stuff as a RUclips channel for fun. It’s more casual and at my own pace and I get to enjoy it and interact with people on my own time instead of trying to be profitable.
Why couldnt you center punch each side of the front sight to get alignment and then drill the front sight blade each side in a drill press rather thqn risking ruining the gun?
It’s a good question, and the only answer I can really give you is that I’ve always done it this way and always seen it done this way, and if you’re competent in doing it… I’ve never actually seen someone ruin a gun. If you’re careful, even inexperienced people tend to do fine. You could do that if you want to, but my worry would be that this hole needs to be very precise. It’s not a matter of just fitting a pin in- that’s relatively simple. You want the sight to be snugged forward when it is pinned. The pin just keeps the sight from falling off, but the slot itself being butted with the sight takes the brunt of the recoil as the barrel moves back under recoil and the sight wants to not move. “An object at rest remains at rest unless acted upon by an unbalanced force”. You want that sight set forward and butted so the pin holding it in doesn’t take that stress because it will cause premature failure. Butting the sight the wrong direction, for example, can definitely cause the pin to shear eventually because it’s taking too much recoil load. In short, what you’re suggesting can work in theory, but it would have to be done with such precision that… it’s probably not practical. Great question. Made me think about it.
Thanks for the video. I hate the design of these sights as far a drilling required. Its seems like it would be easy to accidentally remove material from the gun rather than the sight.
It’s not my favorite style, either. A lot of folks don’t clamp the sight down sufficiently and it has wobble to it. If folks try to only drill from one side it sometimes result in misalignment. A broken drill bit is a constant fear. Trying to align the sharp bit without marring the edges of the hole is tedious. I’d much rather fit dovetail sights. It takes some patience, but there isn’t nearly as much room for error.
That would probably be a question for Kimber’s customer support. I would assume they have different height sights available for zeroing at the factory and could probably supply what you need.
Your best bet is the adjustable set from the Target model. From what I gather all K6S factory sights are regulated for 158gr 38 special, if I remember correctly.
Unfortunately I don’t know. It was given to me as a gift years ago. It was this mat which is foam and covered with a microfiber sort of material and came packaged with a red microfiber-like cleaning cloth. It wasn’t a common brand name as far as I can remember. Seemed like the sort of thing you’d find on Amazon or eBay.
It’s always easy to criticize, but you don’t see them linking their videos where they show people how to get things done using simple tools as a hobbyist. Thanks for your comment.
Does the adjustable site fit the K-6 combat? I’m having a hard time, trying to get the answer my combat shoots, 2 inches low on fix sites and I don’t like it
I can’t absolutely guarantee it, probably a question for Kimber customer support, but to my eye the dovetails look identical and should be interchangeable.
That’s going to depend on if anyone makes a base plate for mounting a red dot that is compatible with the rear sight dovetail cut. I’m not sure if that exists. If it is available, certainly it could be done. It’s probably not what I would do, but that’s really just a matter of personal preferences- I don’t think there’s anything inherently wrong with putting a red dot sight on a revolver.
@@ColterBrog do you know something about slow bullet velocity in classic Pythons (there was popular tale that 6inch Python with same ammo is 100-200fps slower that 4-inch GP100 or S&W)? I`m wondering did CZ or Colt themselves fixed that problem in new Pythons - maybe you know something about it, bro? i`we heard that cylinder gap in 2020 Python is tight as hell, maybe that could`ve helped
After every 100 rounds of magnums loads, my roll pin on the front sight walks out pretty far. Is this common? Do I need a new roll pin? I have the 3" version.
Might be a defective roll pin- undersized. It shouldn’t be walking out. I might try squeezing/deforming the pin slightly in a vise to cause it to fit more tightly. Might work, might not, but that would be my first attempt for a quick fix.
@@ColterBrog Ok cool. I may contact Kimber and ask if they can send me another pin. I noticed in your video you have to hit the pin a lot harder than I do to move it. So mine must be slightly undersized.
I’ve had better luck with wood. It’s less prone to deforming. When the wooden dowel eventually splinters just replace it. They’re cheap, work well, and are non-marring.
Main problem with this video is that sight pin and rear sight should be removed FROM THE RIGHT and installed from the left. Part of the difficulty with the rear is just that, and starting the pin from the left because the hole is bigger should have been a clue. Almost all gunsmithing pins follow that rule..
The hole is bigger on the left because it is countersunk as a guide. The roll pin is not tapered. Allowing the pin to pass through instead of backing it out the opposite direction of installation is correct in this instance as it limits risk of cosmetic damage from a punch slipping. In regards to the rear sight, I actually mention in the video there was no measurable difference in the dovetail itself (and the presence of a screw for securing it after drifting windage adjustments suggests there wouldn’t be) but that the original rear sight appeared to have a tapered leading edge on the left which is evidence it had been drifted in at the factory from the right. I chose to act based on available evidence rather than an “almost all rule”. I don’t recall any difficulty with the rear, and don’t see any difficulty with the rear rewatching the video. I chose to not do any fitting on the rear sight because I was able to get it started a bit by hand, and wanted the fit to be quite snug so it isn’t bumped when carried. In my opinion, the video is accurate in showing the correct way to work on *this* revolver.
@@BryanW0765I’d be curious to see what the supposed difference in dimension is. As I said, I didn’t do it the way I did by accident- and I specifically justify it in the video. Regardless, the way I did it and rationalized it resulted in a successful install which has had no problems with high recoil loads and general carry.
@@ColterBrog well…I really appreciate the video. You will have helped me immensely once I receive my K6S. I really appreciate you taking the time to do it.
On certain things they are necessary. For this it is unnecessary and unreasonable someone would buy one for this task. Chasing a hole from both sides, like this is, I find easier to do with a hand drill. You get more tactile feedback.
Go practice on using the right hammer, not my granddaughters. Get a real drill bit and learn how to drill before you do this. A 5 minute job turns into 30
That hammer has changed hundreds of sights. I’ve been using it for 15 years and the weight and balance is excellent for precision tasks. I really don’t know how to even respond to a “real drill bit”… I assure you the drill bit is, in fact, real. Held it in my own hand even. It even drilled a real hole. It’s not a video of showing how fast I can change sights. It’s a slow and deliberate tutorial video. Go take a nap.
Great installation video brother really good job!!! Visual work was awesome!!!!!! Very Detailed!!!!!
Thank you!
If you’re wondering if these sights are visible in daylight… YES they are… I actually almost like these better than my Trijicon night sights on my glock being the tritium inserts are as bright as them in the day and night. If you have the target model, it’s nicer to pull back the hammer as well. If you’re thinking about it, get them!!
Also the instal is fairly easy as long as you’re mechanically minded. Just follow this video, be careful, and take your time.
Very detailed, thank you for the video!!
I appreciate the compliment, and also providing a brief review for others who are considering these sights.
The K6s is a very petite revolver and I think is well suited to being more of a carry piece than a target gun. The fixed night sights with their lower profile pair perfectly with it as far as my tastes go.
Awesome video. Just used it to walk through putting in my new sights. Worked like a charm.
Awesome.
Lovely gun, you did a great job on this sight swap
Thanks. I’m traditionally a S&W loyalist who is gradually moving towards being a Colt fan, but these Kimbers really lend themselves well to being a carry magnum with carry type sights because of their small frame.
They do something the larger magnums don’t do, and should have sights to match.
Thanks for sharing. You would make a good gunsmithing instructor.
Thanks. Unfortunately it just makes more financial sense to work in oil and gas then just play with this stuff as a RUclips channel for fun. It’s more casual and at my own pace and I get to enjoy it and interact with people on my own time instead of trying to be profitable.
Man this helps, thank you!
Thanks for commenting. Glad it was helpful.
Well done!
Thanks.
Why couldnt you center punch each side of the front sight to get alignment and then drill the front sight blade each side in a drill press rather thqn risking ruining the gun?
It’s a good question, and the only answer I can really give you is that I’ve always done it this way and always seen it done this way, and if you’re competent in doing it… I’ve never actually seen someone ruin a gun. If you’re careful, even inexperienced people tend to do fine.
You could do that if you want to, but my worry would be that this hole needs to be very precise. It’s not a matter of just fitting a pin in- that’s relatively simple.
You want the sight to be snugged forward when it is pinned. The pin just keeps the sight from falling off, but the slot itself being butted with the sight takes the brunt of the recoil as the barrel moves back under recoil and the sight wants to not move. “An object at rest remains at rest unless acted upon by an unbalanced force”.
You want that sight set forward and butted so the pin holding it in doesn’t take that stress because it will cause premature failure. Butting the sight the wrong direction, for example, can definitely cause the pin to shear eventually because it’s taking too much recoil load.
In short, what you’re suggesting can work in theory, but it would have to be done with such precision that… it’s probably not practical.
Great question. Made me think about it.
Thanks for the video. I hate the design of these sights as far a drilling required. Its seems like it would be easy to accidentally remove material from the gun rather than the sight.
It’s not my favorite style, either. A lot of folks don’t clamp the sight down sufficiently and it has wobble to it. If folks try to only drill from one side it sometimes result in misalignment. A broken drill bit is a constant fear. Trying to align the sharp bit without marring the edges of the hole is tedious.
I’d much rather fit dovetail sights. It takes some patience, but there isn’t nearly as much room for error.
My k6 dasa shoots low, are there shorter front or taller rear sights available?
That would probably be a question for Kimber’s customer support. I would assume they have different height sights available for zeroing at the factory and could probably supply what you need.
Your best bet is the adjustable set from the Target model. From what I gather all K6S factory sights are regulated for 158gr 38 special, if I remember correctly.
Are the sights that come with the gun adjustable for windage and elevation?
Yes. If it features the target sight like this one did, it is screw adjustable.
Anyone know where to get that mat he uses? Looks pretty nice
Unfortunately I don’t know. It was given to me as a gift years ago. It was this mat which is foam and covered with a microfiber sort of material and came packaged with a red microfiber-like cleaning cloth.
It wasn’t a common brand name as far as I can remember. Seemed like the sort of thing you’d find on Amazon or eBay.
Everbody in the comment seems to be a expert at gunsmithing or just ignorant know it alls… anyways great video!
It’s always easy to criticize, but you don’t see them linking their videos where they show people how to get things done using simple tools as a hobbyist.
Thanks for your comment.
Does the adjustable site fit the K-6 combat? I’m having a hard time, trying to get the answer my combat shoots, 2 inches low on fix sites and I don’t like it
I can’t absolutely guarantee it, probably a question for Kimber customer support, but to my eye the dovetails look identical and should be interchangeable.
YOU'RE KILLIN' ME, SMALLS!!!!!!!!
?
can you install a red dot on it? Or you don't recommend it? I have the "combat" model." Thanks in advance.
That’s going to depend on if anyone makes a base plate for mounting a red dot that is compatible with the rear sight dovetail cut. I’m not sure if that exists.
If it is available, certainly it could be done. It’s probably not what I would do, but that’s really just a matter of personal preferences- I don’t think there’s anything inherently wrong with putting a red dot sight on a revolver.
@@ColterBrog Then what else would you do?
@@mohsenraghian210 For revolvers I like the classic look. Just simple iron sights. Tritium is about as fancy as I go.
What is the height of the front sight?
I don’t actually have this one anymore. They’re just the fixed night sights from Kimber, so whatever their default height is.
Man can you please measure length and width of cylinder in your Python 2020 revolver (length of round chamber of course)?
Sure. I’ll do it this afternoon.
@@ColterBrog many thanks
@@ColterBrog do you know something about slow bullet velocity in classic Pythons (there was popular tale that 6inch Python with same ammo is 100-200fps slower that 4-inch GP100 or S&W)? I`m wondering did CZ or Colt themselves fixed that problem in new Pythons - maybe you know something about it, bro? i`we heard that cylinder gap in 2020 Python is tight as hell, maybe that could`ve helped
@@thatllbeawesome361 I’ve never heard of that being a problem, but I’m far from being an expert on Pythons.
@@ColterBrog okay
After every 100 rounds of magnums loads, my roll pin on the front sight walks out pretty far. Is this common? Do I need a new roll pin? I have the 3" version.
Might be a defective roll pin- undersized. It shouldn’t be walking out.
I might try squeezing/deforming the pin slightly in a vise to cause it to fit more tightly. Might work, might not, but that would be my first attempt for a quick fix.
@@ColterBrog Ok cool. I may contact Kimber and ask if they can send me another pin. I noticed in your video you have to hit the pin a lot harder than I do to move it. So mine must be slightly undersized.
I doubt Kimber would use a combination of standard and metric. Otherwise, good video.
Get a nylon punch
I’ve had better luck with wood. It’s less prone to deforming. When the wooden dowel eventually splinters just replace it. They’re cheap, work well, and are non-marring.
Main problem with this video is that sight pin and rear sight should be removed FROM THE RIGHT and installed from the left. Part of the difficulty with the rear is just that, and starting the pin from the left because the hole is bigger should have been a clue. Almost all gunsmithing pins follow that rule..
The hole is bigger on the left because it is countersunk as a guide. The roll pin is not tapered. Allowing the pin to pass through instead of backing it out the opposite direction of installation is correct in this instance as it limits risk of cosmetic damage from a punch slipping.
In regards to the rear sight, I actually mention in the video there was no measurable difference in the dovetail itself (and the presence of a screw for securing it after drifting windage adjustments suggests there wouldn’t be) but that the original rear sight appeared to have a tapered leading edge on the left which is evidence it had been drifted in at the factory from the right. I chose to act based on available evidence rather than an “almost all rule”.
I don’t recall any difficulty with the rear, and don’t see any difficulty with the rear rewatching the video. I chose to not do any fitting on the rear sight because I was able to get it started a bit by hand, and wanted the fit to be quite snug so it isn’t bumped when carried.
In my opinion, the video is accurate in showing the correct way to work on *this* revolver.
Straight from Kimber…”installed from right to left, removed from left to right.”
@@BryanW0765I’d be curious to see what the supposed difference in dimension is. As I said, I didn’t do it the way I did by accident- and I specifically justify it in the video.
Regardless, the way I did it and rationalized it resulted in a successful install which has had no problems with high recoil loads and general carry.
@@ColterBrog well…I really appreciate the video. You will have helped me immensely once I receive my K6S. I really appreciate you taking the time to do it.
@@BryanW0765If that’s what they say I’d be inclined to trust them. It just isn’t what I observed.
Someone buy bubba a drill press…
On certain things they are necessary. For this it is unnecessary and unreasonable someone would buy one for this task. Chasing a hole from both sides, like this is, I find easier to do with a hand drill. You get more tactile feedback.
Go practice on using the right hammer, not my granddaughters. Get a real drill bit and learn how to drill before you do this. A 5 minute job turns into 30
That hammer has changed hundreds of sights. I’ve been using it for 15 years and the weight and balance is excellent for precision tasks.
I really don’t know how to even respond to a “real drill bit”… I assure you the drill bit is, in fact, real. Held it in my own hand even. It even drilled a real hole.
It’s not a video of showing how fast I can change sights. It’s a slow and deliberate tutorial video.
Go take a nap.